OMG This chimney almost fell over. Full video of chimney rebuild with new mortar joints and bricks.
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- Опубліковано 4 жов 2024
- I was called out to inspect a chimney that was leaking in to a ladies bedroom. After i went up on the roof i was amazed. The chimney was totally crumbling.
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Been doing masonary most of my life; never heard of the 20’ rule. Learn something new every day!
Its from the old timers. The masonry trade is as old as humankind. But regular bubble levels are very very new technology, 200 years old.
I always use a level. except when i am on my last couple brick courses. I never need it then.
You seem to be mostly self taught. Kudos for that.
If youre a homeowner watching this, please hire a professional
You never ever close off a chimney flue. If you have a chimney which is no longer in use, then the Flu should be capped with a Breathable Weather Cap. This will allow the chimney to breath, but keep the rain and wildlife out.
All chimneys have varying degrees of moisture levels in them through out the year. If you seal off a flu, then any moisture you have inside the flu has nowhere to go....eventually you get penetrating damp in the rooms of the house around the chimney flue.
In this particular Chimney, you can see the efflorescence staining on the chimney bricks prior to the work being commenced - this tells that there is alot of damp issues already present in this chimney.
By Sealing off this flu you have stopped any way for the flu to dry out.
As a standard rule, even if a chimney is not in use, you need to have a vent at the bottom of the chimney in the room fireplace (especially if someone has sealed the fireplace shut) to allow air to pass inside the chimney and you also must have a way for the top of the flue at the chimney pot to vent to expel the rising air.
yes, very right. The second flue on this chimney was closed in from day one . After i took apart top 1-2 feet of the flue there wore still bricks inside the flue. Brick that wore original. I guess the bricks went all the way to the foundation. Never seen anything like that. Not a mason by trade, I am a roofer by trade, Learned masonry from my uncle over 20 years. Worked on chimneys for over 20 years. Number 1 frailer on chimneys i see in the New Jersey area is the cap and top last couple drip brick mortar joints.
Always leave a air space between flue and chimney wall, at least half an inch. Filling the airspace does not allow brick to dissipate moisture, especially if the chimney is used often.
yea, very well said. unfortunately this chimneys air vent chamber was all filled in for 50 years. Always a very good idea to seal a masonry chimney every 5 years. I seen leaks come from chimneys that soke water in and spit it out into the attic.
If high wind gust hit this chimney, the top would have surly tilted over. 😢
skilled man!
Well done 👍
Why would you even want a mortar cap ?
Excelente trabajo; me parece que sería recomendable en el caso de usar ladrillos usados de la chimenea como están ahumados pierden adherencia rasparlos con un chascon y mojarlos; asimismo en la parte de arriba de la chimenea el estuco de cemento se parte porque el cemento hay que mojarlo una vez al día durante tres días, y también la mezcla se debe mejorar agregándole cal y cemento de alta temperatura.🙂
What can b used to make the crown if there is big gaps between the flue tile and edge of chimney.
little broken pcs of brick or cement block, wedge in the gap and mortar over top.
Why not use a float to smooth it off ????
Too small of a area plus have to bring up a float up the scaffolding and then clean it. Use tools that are available to do it fast.
That scaffolding doesn’t look too clever😟
Its regular masonry scaffolding with HD wood planks. Attached to house w anchors at level 2-3. I bought it 20 years ago for $350 :-), form a retired mason. But yes very scarry to be on a scaffolding !!!! Thank you.
Stick to roofing! Coming from a masonry restoration professional
Cool