Ebay rescues are such a great service to the community to put damaged neglected models back into use. I don't have the patience or the skill, so thank you for doing your part.
Biostrip is excellent. It just needs time to work. Dip the model, or brush it on, then leave the model in a bowl overnight (covered with cling film to prevent drying). The paint will just slide off when you use a toothbrush. Then you just rinse with water after you're done.
Yep. I learned the hard way. Do not just pop the minis in there. You end up with real mank! Just as Ronald says... Separate bowl. Leave it overnight. Scrub under warm water with some dish soap. Can take a couple of applications. I'm taking the clingfilm advice. Cheers Ron! :)
Definitely worth the time getting the minis to look as good as they do now, i would be more than happy with that result! Thats a bloody good job you did with those orcs andy, the orc skin looks superb and very crisp! I dont own any contrast paints but i am now very tempted to try as im terrible at orc flesh, and i have a few orcs to try it on as well! Update on my “trying to make an oldhammer video for youtube”… 6 hours painting, 5 hours footage, condensed to just under 7 minutes, scripted voice over because i began listening to music during painting, uploaded three times now, and im still not making it public as it just doesnt work lol the oldhammer miniature looks fairly decent with its new paint job, but the actual video is just terrible, so might abandon the idea as i hve no idea where to go from here! I think today ill just paint an 80s norse dwarf off camera and come back to the video at a later date...
Nooooo. We all feel that way about our videos. And I feel that way at least once a week about a video. But I’ve learned to post it and the community always responds kindly. We are just our harshest critics. Post it pal.
@@MediocreHobbies Still undecided about where to go from here but i think my best plan of action is just to collect as many oldhammer minis as i can in 2024, really build up my unpainted collection and go from there, i already have a fair few minis here ready to go, but i have a list as long as my arm of which minis to hunt down, but my big oldhammer love is for those beastmen and minotaurs from the mid to late 80s, trying to get all those chaos minotaur lords in my collection is proving expensive lol really only have one minotaur to go and thats Duherst the Master Butcher, with that wonderful Bruce Forsythe pose! Once a decent enough collection has been amassed then maybe ill begin making videos but that wont be for a while yet, i might test the water by painting random terminator marines in a possible series where i try to better my edge highlighting, could be fun as my edge highlighting is piss poor, to put it bluntly. I have a lot of different ideas floating around and that can only be a good thing, even if i dont havr the talent, i do have the passion 😃
I don’t get the way people rave about biostrip. I’ve had it destroy plastic models left in for an hour. It makes it so brittle. Like you said the GSW stripper is chefs kiss.
nail polish remover, if you leave it in tuppa wear for long enough. its the best way of striping metal miniatures only, if the paint is really caked on, try iso after that
Another great video, it's getting me excited for that moment in every Orc & Goblin player's life when the 3 fanatics they just released turn back and decimate your own front line 😂. I remember being advised by someone once that the best thing to use to strip metal minis was brake fluid but to be careful because it might also strip your skin. I just smiled and nodded and went home to my big jar of Dettol...
Have you tried stripping models with acetone? I find it works very well with metal minis. Kills your brain cells real good but it sure can remove old paint.
I've had some nightmares trying to resore some WFB stuff; stuff assembled wrong, no mould line cleanup or sprue tab removal before assembly, plastic glue run all over the surface. It's taken a bit longer than brand new minis, but I've managed to rescue some orcs, might need to hide a few in the middle of ranks but they'll look alright painted.
I think you did very well Andy, especially given the condition of the mini. A quick note on the Biostrip though: I only ever use it for the absolute worst paint that iso just wont shift, and I've learned a few things about it. Firstly you need two toothbrushes. One to scoop off the bulk of the used biostrip and the other for the actual scrubbing. I keep a little bottle of washing up liquid on hand, and a drop of that on the second toothbrush cuts through the biostrip very nicely, though repeated rinsing and reapplication of washing up liquid is vital. Most importantly I never use hot or even warm water during the rinsing as that does some weird evil magic shite to the biostrip, making it gum up and become extremely hydrophobic. It's still a vile substance but it's gotten paint off old minis that even a 24 hour acetone bath wouldn't shift. I still prefer my isopropanol though.
I appreciate seeing the way you layer up your models. I have a tendency to leave things tabletop, after the basecoat and wash and only go in and layer up and highlight specific models. Layering skin has always been something that I struggle with making look good. Thanks for the great content.
I am glad that you were able to power through it I think it would have been a missed opportunity for education on old Warhammer Minis. I had no idea this model even existed I think it's fascinating to see into a window of the past that Games Workshop wasn't always serious they actually had fun with their sculpts.
Break fluid mate. Soak minis in break fluid which you can get in autoparts shop. Get job done with acrylics and stuff. Not smelly, not greasy, using it since 90s to strip my minis =)
@@MediocreHobbies I had no issues with my dwarves when I did warhammer. But I only used it on regular GW sprues and metal minis. You should NEVER use it on resin :) And keep it away from children, of course. One important notice, only use "regular" simpliest break fluid, fancy-shmancy "eco", "green line", "power plus" and such doing strange things even to regular plastic. But in any way, stuff is quite cheap, you can always buy the smallest bottle and test it on leftover bits. For me it worked like a charm for years, the heaviest paint coats over a good primer usually took no more than two soakings.
Looked like a rough start but given what you were working with, the final result came out really nice. Really makes you wonder what they used given it was resistant to methylated spirits. But glad you stuck with it - think you have more patience than I would!
Never saw this fig before, I love it! Stripping: This is why I got a sonic cleaner from Amazon. totally worth it. Simple Green, which is safe to use indoors during the winter, and a sonic cleaner can take almost anything off.
Mediocre Hobbies has resorted to Drama UA-cam videos... 😑 Seriously though, good work. 😁😁😁 I like that you've saved a beaten up model and the more dire the original state the happier I am that you - someone - saved it. Don't know why? I've had and still got some Middle Earth models from Ebay in a pretty poor state and it'll be nice to save those one day...
Amongst my collectables is an Ork Boss on a Wyvern. Why collectable? Because it is the metal one and the prospect of building it is terrifying with all that pinning that is required.
@@MediocreHobbies I'll have a look, but this is Australia and we are 40 years behind everyone else. Any way if a can get some and it works, grief over with.
model looks cool in fairness i think it looks better without the blood effect....and i think Orc blood is a purple colour not a red......great video really enjoyed
Could you make, or direct me to, a video where you explain how to use contrast paints? Whenever I use them I just get blotchy inconsistent patches, but you have an incredible technique and it always looks fantastic! Would love to be able to emulate it.
Are you sure that isn't a recast? I'm not sure it was the stripper that caused that damage. It looks like loss of detail from recasting with pitting from air bubbles.
Hahaha, do you really think there will be anything left to put out on the shelves? All the stores here in Norway have sold out pretty much everything already
it'll strip the paint off a car and it does a really great job on lead minis- use pliars to put the lead into it and take it out and use in a well ventilated area or use a big jam jar with a lid . Rinse in water and use warm/hot soapy water to clean mini with toothbrush. Great job.
Wish you would go back to tanks and vehicles. Oh well. I hope you apply lots of rust and fake dirt to the Orcs mate so they don't look like toys after all. Wait, I just scanned the video and not seeing any heavy mud and grime. Realistic? Have a great day! 😊
No! I scream inside every time someone uses dettol. Yes, it works. But it's not great and it ridiculously messy. Try literally any other thing that works and it will be better than dettol and you will, never go back.
Ebay rescues are such a great service to the community to put damaged neglected models back into use. I don't have the patience or the skill, so thank you for doing your part.
It is honestly a very rewarding process. Maybe one day you can give it a try.
My Dad has given me ALL of old orks and goblins from back when fantasy battle was around. There's about 20 black orks and at least 30 spider riders
Oh sweet! That will make a great start for a very cool army!
These sort of minis capture perfectly the character of WFB/OW. So much more fun than the grim dark.
Agreed.
Fantasy Battles to Age of Sigmar to Old World... If this is not a classic walk of shame for GW, then I don't know what is =)
Hahhahaha kinda
Biostrip is excellent. It just needs time to work. Dip the model, or brush it on, then leave the model in a bowl overnight (covered with cling film to prevent drying). The paint will just slide off when you use a toothbrush. Then you just rinse with water after you're done.
Yep. I learned the hard way. Do not just pop the minis in there. You end up with real mank! Just as Ronald says... Separate bowl. Leave it overnight. Scrub under warm water with some dish soap. Can take a couple of applications.
I'm taking the clingfilm advice. Cheers Ron! :)
Ok maybe I need to give it another try.
Great vid. Didn’t think you’d pull it off but that mini looks awesome
Either did I 😂
Definitely worth the time getting the minis to look as good as they do now, i would be more than happy with that result! Thats a bloody good job you did with those orcs andy, the orc skin looks superb and very crisp! I dont own any contrast paints but i am now very tempted to try as im terrible at orc flesh, and i have a few orcs to try it on as well!
Update on my “trying to make an oldhammer video for youtube”… 6 hours painting, 5 hours footage, condensed to just under 7 minutes, scripted voice over because i began listening to music during painting, uploaded three times now, and im still not making it public as it just doesnt work lol the oldhammer miniature looks fairly decent with its new paint job, but the actual video is just terrible, so might abandon the idea as i hve no idea where to go from here! I think today ill just paint an 80s norse dwarf off camera and come back to the video at a later date...
Nooooo. We all feel that way about our videos. And I feel that way at least once a week about a video. But I’ve learned to post it and the community always responds kindly. We are just our harshest critics. Post it pal.
@@MediocreHobbies Still undecided about where to go from here but i think my best plan of action is just to collect as many oldhammer minis as i can in 2024, really build up my unpainted collection and go from there, i already have a fair few minis here ready to go, but i have a list as long as my arm of which minis to hunt down, but my big oldhammer love is for those beastmen and minotaurs from the mid to late 80s, trying to get all those chaos minotaur lords in my collection is proving expensive lol really only have one minotaur to go and thats Duherst the Master Butcher, with that wonderful Bruce Forsythe pose! Once a decent enough collection has been amassed then maybe ill begin making videos but that wont be for a while yet, i might test the water by painting random terminator marines in a possible series where i try to better my edge highlighting, could be fun as my edge highlighting is piss poor, to put it bluntly. I have a lot of different ideas floating around and that can only be a good thing, even if i dont havr the talent, i do have the passion 😃
What a great result!!! So jealous that I don't have this piece.
Great video.
Maybe they will make him available again soon.
I don’t get the way people rave about biostrip. I’ve had it destroy plastic models left in for an hour. It makes it so brittle. Like you said the GSW stripper is chefs kiss.
It’s dear tho! Methylated spirits does the job perfectly at a fraction of the cost!
Yep I really need to order more.
nail polish remover, if you leave it in tuppa wear for long enough. its the best way of striping metal miniatures only, if the paint is really caked on, try iso after that
Seconded!
Make sure it’s acetone based, but don’t keep it in plastic (I learned that the hard way), use a glass jar!!!
Yep. It’s good stiff.
Good stuff. I love those models! Never managed to track one down for a reasonable price
That’s a shame. Such good fun.
Good job in persevering.
Thanks I’m glad I did it.
Another great video, it's getting me excited for that moment in every Orc & Goblin player's life when the 3 fanatics they just released turn back and decimate your own front line 😂. I remember being advised by someone once that the best thing to use to strip metal minis was brake fluid but to be careful because it might also strip your skin. I just smiled and nodded and went home to my big jar of Dettol...
Hahahahhaa I’d probably do the same lol and yes fanatics are going to be so much fun.
Great result with a rough looking start. Well done.
Cheers pal.
Fantastic model & a great paint scheme! Cheers Andy, really appreciate all the effort in this video series 👍🏼
Really glad your liking it pal.
Have you tried stripping models with acetone? I find it works very well with metal minis. Kills your brain cells real good but it sure can remove old paint.
Of course the good old faithful.
I've had some nightmares trying to resore some WFB stuff; stuff assembled wrong, no mould line cleanup or sprue tab removal before assembly, plastic glue run all over the surface.
It's taken a bit longer than brand new minis, but I've managed to rescue some orcs, might need to hide a few in the middle of ranks but they'll look alright painted.
I’d love to see them when there all painted.
Amazing effort to keep going with this one Andy, but I’m glad you did the end result I was well worth it, well done.
Cheers. Glad I powered through as well.
I think you did very well Andy, especially given the condition of the mini. A quick note on the Biostrip though: I only ever use it for the absolute worst paint that iso just wont shift, and I've learned a few things about it. Firstly you need two toothbrushes. One to scoop off the bulk of the used biostrip and the other for the actual scrubbing. I keep a little bottle of washing up liquid on hand, and a drop of that on the second toothbrush cuts through the biostrip very nicely, though repeated rinsing and reapplication of washing up liquid is vital. Most importantly I never use hot or even warm water during the rinsing as that does some weird evil magic shite to the biostrip, making it gum up and become extremely hydrophobic. It's still a vile substance but it's gotten paint off old minis that even a 24 hour acetone bath wouldn't shift. I still prefer my isopropanol though.
Great tips thank you.
Stunning work, looked horrific at the start but came out looking so good!
Cheers. Yes I’m happy I powered through.
I appreciate seeing the way you layer up your models. I have a tendency to leave things tabletop, after the basecoat and wash and only go in and layer up and highlight specific models. Layering skin has always been something that I struggle with making look good. Thanks for the great content.
Funnily enough after I did it for a while layering skin had become one of my favourite things to do. But I get where your coming form.
It was definitely worth the effort. Whatever damage occurred mainly just made the orcs look meaner and more grizzled.
Yeah…free battle damage effect 😄
Came out very well! nice work dude!
Cheers pal.
This is such a great unit filler. I never got it as my force was 100% night goblins but I love the little fistycuffs night goblin.
They’re so tough and scrappy 😄
My main memory was half my army running away or fighting each other whilest the squigs and fanatics decimated anything and everything on both sides 😅
love nuff said
Thanks man
Awesome sculpt! I've not seen that one before!
I hope models like this come back, even as made to order for more people to get!
great piece
It’s so cool
I am glad that you were able to power through it I think it would have been a missed opportunity for education on old Warhammer Minis. I had no idea this model even existed I think it's fascinating to see into a window of the past that Games Workshop wasn't always serious they actually had fun with their sculpts.
Yes for sure. I’m so happy to have it in my collection now.
The greestuffworld remover you suggested in that other video is the best, the BEST, stripping agent.
It’s crazy good. Only thing that needs improving is the container it comes in, I feel a lot gets wasted but it’s super powerful stuff
Amazing rescue!
Thank you!!
Decidedly worth the effort.
I think so. Cheers.
Break fluid mate. Soak minis in break fluid which you can get in autoparts shop. Get job done with acrylics and stuff. Not smelly, not greasy, using it since 90s to strip my minis =)
And safe for plastics?
@@MediocreHobbies I had no issues with my dwarves when I did warhammer. But I only used it on regular GW sprues and metal minis. You should NEVER use it on resin :) And keep it away from children, of course.
One important notice, only use "regular" simpliest break fluid, fancy-shmancy "eco", "green line", "power plus" and such doing strange things even to regular plastic.
But in any way, stuff is quite cheap, you can always buy the smallest bottle and test it on leftover bits. For me it worked like a charm for years, the heaviest paint coats over a good primer usually took no more than two soakings.
Looked like a rough start but given what you were working with, the final result came out really nice. Really makes you wonder what they used given it was resistant to methylated spirits. But glad you stuck with it - think you have more patience than I would!
Hahhahaha for old collectible models I have all the patience for everything else….. not so much lol
Never saw this fig before, I love it! Stripping: This is why I got a sonic cleaner from Amazon. totally worth it. Simple Green, which is safe to use indoors during the winter, and a sonic cleaner can take almost anything off.
I really must break my sonic cleaner back out. And simply green is not available in most parts of the world unfortunately.
Love it 🫶
Cheers pal.
Mediocre Hobbies has resorted to Drama UA-cam videos... 😑 Seriously though, good work. 😁😁😁 I like that you've saved a beaten up model and the more dire the original state the happier I am that you - someone - saved it. Don't know why? I've had and still got some Middle Earth models from Ebay in a pretty poor state and it'll be nice to save those one day...
Yea it will and I hope you do it. Glad you feel the same way I do.
You promised me a quick tyranid tiamet paint scheme!
One day pal. Finding the time for all the videos I need to produce is proving quite a challenge.
@@MediocreHobbies well... I guess as excuses go, available time and being overworked is _okay_
😉
Fantastic job! When I saw it on Stream i was concerned it was too far gone, but looks fab now.
Saturday sounds intriguing, an old forgeworld classic?
It was meant to be a forgeworld classic but then things got messed up. The first of the videos for it will be Released today.
Amongst my collectables is an Ork Boss on a Wyvern. Why collectable? Because it is the metal one and the prospect of building it is terrifying with all that pinning that is required.
Gel super glue exists now. No pinning required. I assembled a forest dragon the other day and it was so easy. No pinning.
@@MediocreHobbies I'll have a look, but this is Australia and we are 40 years behind everyone else. Any way if a can get some and it works, grief over with.
model looks cool in fairness i think it looks better without the blood effect....and i think Orc blood is a purple colour not a red......great video really enjoyed
That’s a very good point 😂
Could you make, or direct me to, a video where you explain how to use contrast paints? Whenever I use them I just get blotchy inconsistent patches, but you have an incredible technique and it always looks fantastic! Would love to be able to emulate it.
I do need to make that video.
Cellulose thinners. Just melts off everything in seconds. Just don't use it on plastic minis. Cheap as well.
Interesting never heard of that one.
Love it
Cheers pal.
Fun!
Cheers.
All hail the UA-cam algorithm Gods
HahahHa cheers.
Are you sure that isn't a recast? I'm not sure it was the stripper that caused that damage. It looks like loss of detail from recasting with pitting from air bubbles.
Agree - it's a known recast too
No it’s real I remember the guy buying it and ruining it.
You nearly quit painting a miniature? OH NO! The HORROR!
Glad you understand pal
@@MediocreHobbies those viewers aren't going to click bait themselves after all. This is serious stuff here.
Bung it in some acetone!
Probably for the best.
Hahaha, do you really think there will be anything left to put out on the shelves? All the stores here in Norway have sold out pretty much everything already
Apparently not lol
Why use safe greenstuff or plastic putty for the joints when you can use toxic resin! 😂
HahahHa it just gets into the small gaps so easy and hardens in seconds so much easier
If we wanted to try and find this model on Ebay do you know the name?
Animosity orc.
Before you wash off the biostrip pour liquid dish soap over the top then scrub then run under hot water
Strange another post said stay away from hot water as it makes it congeal and extra hard to remove.
@MediocreHobbies dish soap helps stop the acrylic readhering and sticking in big gloppy mess. I done all my reviers. I'll post a pic in discord
more old world stuff pls
Always
aCeToNe!
Ye I know I know.
for lead - cellulose paint strippers and mind you dont get any on your skin!!
Sounds dodgy lol.
it'll strip the paint off a car and it does a really great job on lead minis- use pliars to put the lead into it and take it out and use in a well ventilated area or use a big jam jar with a lid . Rinse in water and use warm/hot soapy water to clean mini with toothbrush. Great job.
dude ....im not a big fan of "handles"
but with 4 metal minis on one base
they get heavy
even just a square block
something you can hold on to
I was using one at the start of the video 😄
Whats the name of this model?
Animosity orc.
@@MediocreHobbies thanks mate
Wish you would go back to tanks and vehicles. Oh well. I hope you apply lots of rust and fake dirt to the Orcs mate so they don't look like toys after all. Wait, I just scanned the video and not seeing any heavy mud and grime. Realistic? Have a great day! 😊
I posted a 40k video 4 days ago 😄
biostrip 2.0
Such an awful product to work with.
Ultrasonic cleaner
Might have helped!
Meh Dettol for me every time
No! I scream inside every time someone uses dettol. Yes, it works. But it's not great and it ridiculously messy. Try literally any other thing that works and it will be better than dettol and you will, never go back.
Ye it just takes so long. I mean I guess I’m not in a rush.