I used to teach honing as part of a course at Motorcycle Mechanics Institute in Orlando Florida. Nothing wrong with using a drill for honing but you need a rigid hone, that one is just a glaze buster (and all those cylinders needed) A rigid hone can hold 0.0001" tolerance with just a bit of practice even with a hand drill motor, particularly if it's yours and not a 'training aid' Looks like a 'shadow' at top of cylinder? (5:09 mins) You need to match rpm with stroke length for best cross hatch, you slowed down too much on # 3 cyl at top of stroke. Aim for 45 degree, by hand it's about easiest to do, your look a bit 'flat' in later shots?
@@davidleal923 crankshaft casing bolts have stretch limits and must be checked and measured before installation a shown on video, I've used old ones but in the toleration and been fine. I had feedback about using ARP bolts here as they're applying higher torque and force at the crank crate and might interfere with the bearing clearances, that's why I've remained with OEM bolt there.
nice build like to see the whole build when it done. I have an option to purachse mazda3 2.0 with custom turbo pushing 250 - 300hp on 10 - 15 psi ad they say with no dyno tune. would that blow the stock engine since its only around 150? im debating know nothing about the engine and its capabilities but its very reasonable price.
Thank you, I have no experience with these turboed yet, all I've done in past were older BMWs which engine Internals were far more beefier and more forgiving on a bad tune. If you're worried about bottom end, Mazda 3 and most of cars with transverse mounted engines have much more room to work at them from underneath, so pulling sump and peeking at the rod bearings is way much easier than for example in my case where engine is placed longitudinally for RWD and covered with subframe. First and easiest place to spot that's something going wrong is oil filter Internals, cut it open and look for potential metal shavings 👌
Hello sir very good job!! I'm going to rebuild a Ford focus HXDA 1.600 ti-vct 2006 year engine for my client and at the Ford manuals or at HaynesPro or at autodata says don't loose crankshaft or conrods bolts because the engine block is not serviceable or repairable and they don't give any specs of oil clearance, journals specs etc or the option to buy new crankshaft bearing bolts or conrods bolts... and I don't know what to do we don't want to just buy a used engine. Have you ever repair this kind of engine and what specs or parts do you use?? Optical is like this engine you repair. If you can't infor me I would be grateful! Thanks in advance! Best regards!!
Hi, my engine is combination of Fiesta ST150 Duratec, Mazda MZR/L3, and Ford ST 2.3 Ecoboost. They're all very similar but not same and have some differences.
@@ColdieGarage that’s cool. What are you using, the ST 2.0 block or the MZR? And what parts are you using from the Fiesta? I’m building a turbo Duartec 2.0 with 2.3 heads.
@@mr.nobody42 well, my build is more like "why not" than max performace, however i do plan turbo it over next winter. Im using fiesta ST bottom end as its cheap and accesible compared to MZR one, together with MZR 6M8G head with VVT delete from sport MX5 NC for its great flow, and ecoboost oil pump for more efficiency. However keep in mind, the blocks are slightly different, and Duratec one is missing oil gallery thats feeds VVT on MZR 2.0 in mazda mx5 for example. What is your engine going into?
@@mtb1342 Sorry for late reply, yes it does however there are few differences and it won't run straight away as Ford uses different camshaft triggers than Mazda do. ST150 block does not support VVT as its missing oil gallery thats feeds it, also pistons doesnt have valve reliefs, so its not ideal to use as Mazda 2.0 MZR replacement but will be still great upgrade over Mazda 1.8 MZR engine, and in that case will run just fine only with cams replaced as both doesn't come with VVT.
Worst engine design I have ever seen. None of the bearings have tabs to stop bearings from rotating. As soon as the rod bearing start to wear, the bearings spin and trash the crank. Never seen this in any imported car. Ford sucks
I must disagree here, all these bearings being hold in place by the torque of the rod bolt crushing the bearing into the bore of the rod, regardless they're with tangs or not. Tangs on these are only for correct orientation during instalation, in case of bearings without tangs like in my video here bearings must be placed and spaced accordingly to manual values, that's the only difference. Duratec is Mazda design so kinda "import" motor too. I did work at Nissan's RBs and VQs and SRs, all these have tangs, and all of them spun bearings even sooner than Duratecs. Bearings does wear only in poorly maintained or extremely abused engines where oil and it's pressure doesn't do it's job anymore. In properly built and working motor there is no physical contact between crank and rod bearings, if it is there is nothing that can stop failure especially tangs on bearings.
I used to teach honing as part of a course at Motorcycle Mechanics Institute in Orlando Florida.
Nothing wrong with using a drill for honing but you need a rigid hone, that one is just a glaze buster (and all those cylinders needed)
A rigid hone can hold 0.0001" tolerance with just a bit of practice even with a hand drill motor, particularly if it's yours and not a 'training aid'
Looks like a 'shadow' at top of cylinder? (5:09 mins)
You need to match rpm with stroke length for best cross hatch, you slowed down too much on # 3 cyl at top of stroke.
Aim for 45 degree, by hand it's about easiest to do, your look a bit 'flat' in later shots?
Thanks for the great video! Is checking the bearing clearance with plati-gauge not needed?
It's always needed! I've done that off camera and stated my measurements in the end of previous video, sorry if that's confusing
@@ColdieGarage oh, gotcha! Thanks for the info. Are you able to use the same bolts twice?
@@davidleal923 crankshaft casing bolts have stretch limits and must be checked and measured before installation a shown on video, I've used old ones but in the toleration and been fine. I had feedback about using ARP bolts here as they're applying higher torque and force at the crank crate and might interfere with the bearing clearances, that's why I've remained with OEM bolt there.
nice build like to see the whole build when it done. I have an option to purachse mazda3 2.0 with custom turbo pushing 250 - 300hp on 10 - 15 psi ad they say with no dyno tune. would that blow the stock engine since its only around 150? im debating know nothing about the engine and its capabilities but its very reasonable price.
Thank you, I have no experience with these turboed yet, all I've done in past were older BMWs which engine Internals were far more beefier and more forgiving on a bad tune. If you're worried about bottom end, Mazda 3 and most of cars with transverse mounted engines have much more room to work at them from underneath, so pulling sump and peeking at the rod bearings is way much easier than for example in my case where engine is placed longitudinally for RWD and covered with subframe. First and easiest place to spot that's something going wrong is oil filter Internals, cut it open and look for potential metal shavings 👌
Hello sir very good job!! I'm going to rebuild a Ford focus HXDA 1.600 ti-vct 2006 year engine for my client and at the Ford manuals or at HaynesPro or at autodata says don't loose crankshaft or conrods bolts because the engine block is not serviceable or repairable and they don't give any specs of oil clearance, journals specs etc or the option to buy new crankshaft bearing bolts or conrods bolts... and I don't know what to do we don't want to just buy a used engine. Have you ever repair this kind of engine and what specs or parts do you use?? Optical is like this engine you repair. If you can't infor me I would be grateful! Thanks in advance! Best regards!!
Im very sorry but have no experience with these to advise anything
tremendo ! gracias
Skąd brałeś nowe śruby? Masz nr katalogowy?
Wszystkie te silniki to jedna rodzina więc nie sugeruj się opisem przy zakupie , ARP 251-6202, pozdrawiam 😉
@@ColdieGarage a do panewek głównych?
Where did you get bolt length tolerance values ?
From the Ford manuals mate
Did you remove the oil jet squirters? What is the torque spec to reinstall them and do you need loctite or anything?
Hej, jestes polakiem ?
Tak, aż tak widać? 😁
What car and year is it out of?
Hi, my engine is combination of Fiesta ST150 Duratec, Mazda MZR/L3, and Ford ST 2.3 Ecoboost. They're all very similar but not same and have some differences.
@@ColdieGarage that’s cool. What are you using, the ST 2.0 block or the MZR? And what parts are you using from the Fiesta? I’m building a turbo Duartec 2.0 with 2.3 heads.
@@mr.nobody42 well, my build is more like "why not" than max performace, however i do plan turbo it over next winter. Im using fiesta ST bottom end as its cheap and accesible compared to MZR one, together with MZR 6M8G head with VVT delete from sport MX5 NC for its great flow, and ecoboost oil pump for more efficiency. However keep in mind, the blocks are slightly different, and Duratec one is missing oil gallery thats feeds VVT on MZR 2.0 in mazda mx5 for example.
What is your engine going into?
Can a 2.0 duratec engine go straight into an mx5?
@@mtb1342 Sorry for late reply, yes it does however there are few differences and it won't run straight away as Ford uses different camshaft triggers than Mazda do. ST150 block does not support VVT as its missing oil gallery thats feeds it, also pistons doesnt have valve reliefs, so its not ideal to use as Mazda 2.0 MZR replacement but will be still great upgrade over Mazda 1.8 MZR engine, and in that case will run just fine only with cams replaced as both doesn't come with VVT.
Aliminyum block
Worst engine design I have ever seen. None of the bearings have tabs to stop bearings from rotating. As soon as the rod bearing start to wear, the bearings spin and trash the crank. Never seen this in any imported car. Ford sucks
I must disagree here, all these bearings being hold in place by the torque of the rod bolt crushing the bearing into the bore of the rod, regardless they're with tangs or not. Tangs on these are only for correct orientation during instalation, in case of bearings without tangs like in my video here bearings must be placed and spaced accordingly to manual values, that's the only difference.
Duratec is Mazda design so kinda "import" motor too.
I did work at Nissan's RBs and VQs and SRs, all these have tangs, and all of them spun bearings even sooner than Duratecs.
Bearings does wear only in poorly maintained or extremely abused engines where oil and it's pressure doesn't do it's job anymore. In properly built and working motor there is no physical contact between crank and rod bearings, if it is there is nothing that can stop failure especially tangs on bearings.