Good idea to keep the logs off the ground, I would just suggest using a couple 18" re-bar stakes and drive them into and through the wood to keep them still so rolling the logs over them won't constantly jog them off center.....done this for years back on my farm and it worked great for me.
You've likely noticed that your sawdust bucket isn't catching all that it could. Re-bend the handle or add a collar half way around at the top of the bucket and you'll have less mess. It's funny that the bucket works really well when the mill passes alongside of the trailer tire and the bucket pivots and catches more sawdust, you get a pile of sawdust on the rock - then a clean spot - then another pile. A few months and you'll figure out all kinds of tricks and procedures to increase your output and decrease your clean up time. Thanks for bringing us along.
A temporary measure for the saw dust on the ground would be to place a cheap hardware store tarp on the ground. It will make sawdust cleanup easier. Same thing with the log splitter.
Nathan, I think you have an excellent idea with the shou sugi ban pine sitting on some stones to keep it above weeds. This will be an interesting test of the durability of pine that employs the shou sugi ban process. Looking forward to your final solution. Stay safe, brother.
Man look at you drop and catch those pine logs with that grapple! You are a pro buddy! That log staging system is a winner and access to the mill is fantastic. Great seeing everything come together Nathan.
Nathan - Just an idea for cradling your logs to keep them off the ground. If you have any railroad connected friends, find out where they store their new concrete RR ties or recycled concrete ties and acquire some for your use. I ride the train fairly frequently and see many abandoned or unused concrete ties. Just offer to buy some from the supplier and dop them on the ground where you need them. They are already curved so round trunks would naturally roll toward the center.
It is so good to have an open pole barn, hold equipment, provide shade, and a safe place to work. Great idea for the 6x6. Always room for improvement as you continue.
I would strongly recommend putting chocks behind the rirst log to prevent the pile from rolling out. Not only is that a mess, but it can also be dangerous.
Nathan. Now that you have the space, have you considered making a bunch of 8 ft pallets. You can have one beside the LT 70 to stack lumber straight off the sawmill. This can then be moved to dry then up to the kiln if needed. You will not be moving the sawn timber multiple times by hand
I would use railroad ties. They are designed to last for years with ground contact. I have had some holding rock to stop weeds from around where I park my boat for 12 years and they still look the same as when I picked them up at the lumber yard. We also used them for 23 years at the pallet mill I worked at for holding our cants and lu.ber off the ground.
Charing lumber was very popular in Norway and other Scandinavian churches. Everything on the exterior of the churches was chard including the shake shingles. The oldest still existing one is in Sweden. It is 500+ years old. England still has one I'll assume is because of the Norse.
Great video as always Nathan! One comment, and one tip: Comment: at 12:07, that angle of the second cut on your first pine was pretty cool. It was neat to be able to see the blade dip and rise like you've talked about a number of times. Tip: At 22:32, when you're complaining about the starter not working on your torch, try this. Get a pair of needle nose pliers. Leave the gas off. Turn the torch around so you can see down into the black barrel where the flame comes out. There should be a little metallic rod sticking up that's off center and the end has a tapered point to it and is bent towards the middle. Click the igniter a few times and see if you see a spark from the tip of that metal rod. If you don't, use the pliers to gently bend the rod towards the middle and try the igniter again. Keep repeating until you get a consistent spark. I have the exact same torch from Amazon and had to do this to mine. It works every time now.
Looking good around there Nathan, a separate building for the sawmill and splitter. Then you could turn the pole barn into a separated equipment and mechanical shed. You might want to plant a money tree before you start those builds though. You are doing it the way you want and that's fine. Stay safe and keep up the great videos. Fred.
Years ago I created exposed ceiling timbers. To age them after using my adz, I sprayed them with gasoline, let much of it evaporate, and then set them alight one side at a time. I smothered the flames by rolling the timber over onto the ground. To finish I wired brushed them and applied paste wax to the exposed sides before installation.
Was going mention something similar except with a mix of drain oil and gas. A good way to get rid of sour gas from the boat. There are no reclammation centers for gas that I know of and I have 6 or more gallons on hand. A good friend of mines dad used to soak the bottoms of fence posts in drain oil. When they banned creosole years ago I used drain oil cut with some paint thinner to coat sill plates when I had to open up an exterior wall to replace and repair water damaged framing and sills. Its 100 percent covered so no harm no foul. I am rebuilding my 12 by 16 shed and I will undercoat the boottoms and end grains of the framed deck and also under the 3/4 plywood flooring with that mix. .
I think I would have used the slab wood to set the logs on. They are 12 foot long and a couple inches thick, and you were just going to burn them. I like finding ways to reduce waste. Also, if it is available in your area, recycled concrete is a lot cheaper than gravel.
Concrete for the log splitter will be expensive. With a slabbed area, the cleanup will be easier, quicker and less of a hassle. If it was for me, I would do the slab but, it's you and you're not just the operator but, also the janitor. Blessings to you and family. Be safe, strong, wise and successful in Jesus's Name. ☝🙏🙌💪👊
This was super entertaining! Watching you tackle that crow while managing all the equipment is like a real-life farming vlog! 😂 It's wild how something as simple as a meal can connect with all those tools. Makes you appreciate the hard work behind every bite! 🍽️ Keep it up!
I think you have 'hit the nail right on the head' here. I have long thought that this is what I would do to stack my logs & get them off the ground. I ,personally, would put just a short piece of the 6 x 6 on the ends of each piece just to make sure the bottom logs don't roll off the end as you start to add logs on top. Also I think your idea of laying down gravel to help keep the weeds down for growing up between the logs is almost 'a must do' idea. I know the gravel is a bit expensive but I think the advantage of having it would eventually outweigh the cost & make your log storage much neater & easier to access. Cheers, Don from South Australia.
I had to take a few notes..... The log splitter, I think that placement works well, you can always grab it with the Tracker and pull it out 20-30 feet when you use it and avoid the mess on the gravel? I gotta say, that is the first time I have seen you drop a log straight onto the mill with the tractor. My cheeks were puckered, wondering if yours were as well?? The roller table set up 'ole Professor Milton has is definitely something I will be trying to replicate! He really does make it look easy, don't he!! The LT70 is sure looking purdy all cleaned up and in its new home! I think the new barn is really starting to come together! I've seen a bunch of different opinions on the burning techniques. Some say burn it until it starts getting a "crackled" look to it. I have sold a lot of outdoor furniture over the last 10 years or so. Porch swings, Adirondack chairs, picnic tables, and the like. I used that technique many times, and I burned it about as much as I just watched you do, and I have yet to hear any complaints. I regularly see a picnic table and porch bed I made for my sister in law about 6-7 years ago, and they both seem to be holding up just fine. Thanks for another great video, Nathan! Always a pleasure to watch!!!!!
Probably back in the 1950s, it became necessary to surround my family’s lumberyard with chain link fencing having barbed wire running along the top. I am glad to see you’re in a place where that isn’t necessary.
Some of your cut offs can be packaged as snuggle wood 6 piece bundle for 6 or so dollars great for people in the summer you can do it by the roadside on the honor system
For a pad for the log splitter, you may want to look into some concrete pavers. Just lay them out sorta like a small patio. I dont know about where you are but here there are a couple of contractors that have sales every 6 months or so where they sell off the "extras" from jobs that did not get used. I just bought 4 pallets of cinder blocks for about 20% of what they sell for in the box stores, I got all 4 pallets for less than the cost of one pallet at the store. Last year I bought enough bricks to make a walkway from my garage to the front door. it is about 4 feet wide and 35 feet long and it cost me $110 (not counting the mortar, jut bricks). Granted, typically I find mixed lots, so that not everything matches exactly but for something like a working pad, who cares if they all match or not. Also Facebook marketplace and craigslist are great places for finding free pavers people are wanting to get rid of. Collect a few here and there and when you have enough, bingo, free pad. Just a thought.
My log splitter is on dirt, I would recommend putting the splitter on multiple layers of Geotextile - I have started setting implements on cheap shipping pallets. Find some salvage roller conveyor sections for your slab drop.
A nice back stop to stop the logs from rolling off the end would be nice. Keep checking out Lowes and Home Depot for lighting going on sale for the new mill shed, better to buy it now when the fall sales start and have them in stock when your ready to set up the lighting, it will save you time and $$$$$.
I had left you a comment about the gravel you buy for $35 a ton. I got about 18 ton from Powell Valley Stone in Lee county VA and it was under $20 a ton which even with haul bill included. The driver said they deliver to your area also so if you need more it would be worth checking on.
Down here in NZ that blue stain is called Sap Stain and is treated very soon after harvesting by way off a spray, it is considered a defect and can not be used in a building situation. Great to see you finaly getting organised .😀
The typical nominal dimensions for wood, such as 2 x 4, refer to the thickness and the width of the wood. If a third number is added onto the nominal dimensions, such as 2 x 4 x 96, it indicates the length of the wood. Nominal: 1 x 2 Actual Size: 3/4 x 1-1/2
Good video 👍 I think you have a good plan to organize your logs, and especially getting them up off the ground. Your building looks great 😊 A tarp, temporarily, under you splitter can make cleanup easier 🤷
Nathan, your shed is shrinking. Two sayings I've heard...People build their houses too big and their barns too small :-). AND...We suffer from goldfish syndrome. We tend to grow according to the size of our containers :-). Really like your videos!
Nathan, just a suggestion, go to harbor freight and buy two large heavy weight traps to put under your log splitter and when your finished splitting put the log splitter on away fold up thr bark and chips and load it into the tractor bucket. 😎👍
Just a thought, you could load that dump trailer with several logs at a time and get them moved fairly quickly. Then bring the tractor down and stack them. You probably have tons of them to move may help out.
Nathan, you may want to check with some local industrial salvage/resale operations, for your roller/conveyor table idea. you might find a good deal. 😁✌🖖
Love, love the new building. It's great to watch you sawing again. Back many years ago, when I was a boy scout we used that burning method for post for a shelter we built. It lasted for years. We didn't have propane though. We used a fire. On to something else. I really think the splitter needs its own shelter. I don't think you'll want all that debris in your big building. Just my opinion.
The wood splitter will make a huge mess under the shed. As far as the sleepers go, a heavy char and paint them with used transmission oil, and they'll last a long time, especially if you put stone down instead of just on the ground.
Those slabs will make a great lean to or shack or shed for the firewood splitter!!! It does not need to be a decorative piece for the log yard!!! A few cants in the ground as corner pieces plus if needed center posts with Y2k then screw the slabs on the sides / top. A rustic shed and burn the wood with your torch!!! Make it about 6 to 8 feet too long so it is cover on the ends... Top and the long walls covered in slabs, wide enough to add other objects on the long walls... So drive in one end then out the other leaving the machine in the middle with four feet at each end!!!! If you like add rustic barn doors to both ends!!!!
Looking good Nathan. I like the new log area and you are doing great in your new organized barn. Will you make a space/ stack for each species of wood? Do you have room in that area? That wood make it super easy to keep logs species organized and neat. I am enjoying watching the new place and work area come together.
Hi Nathan really enjoy your content. Have an idea if you put the tractor with the grapple next to the table and just slide slabs onto the forks god bless R
Hi Nathan, Myles from down in Western Panama. I watch your videos to relax, I really enjoy them. Seems to me if you could get your hands on a bigger bucket, it would capture nearly all of your dust. Would be a cheap and suitable alternative to some big vacuum system.
"You're better off pulling from the top, but I need that stuff from the bottom." That's always the way. Happens to me with all my folded and stacked fabric.
Reckon doing 6x6 is overkill for those Bunts. The slab bits bit you put on the fire would be just as good as bunts or maybe just skim a bit off top and bottom of those logs and call it done. No need to square off the sides. Might help them last even longer.
You had it backwards. Nominal is what you buy at big box stores. Nominal, meaning resembling, or relating to. A nominal 2x4 resembles something 2" by 4" but isn't actually that dimension. Actual is, well, lumber labeled as the actual physical dimensions of the board.
Delicious crow made me think of weird non-standard bbq....but I am guessing it is wood related instead of weird food. :) Since I am at the beginning of the video I look forward to seeing which is right.
Wouldn't flattening the ground side only work better? That way you have a very fine contact line with the logs sitting on the top due to the curved shape. You could still smoke em all around. Btw, they do make an oil preservative for wood. Must include the word "preservative in its title.
Instead of 6x6's, get some old utility poles and cut them to length. They will last a far longer on the ground, so you can use the 6x6's for something else.
Boy I wish I was close enough to buy your off cuts!!! As a professional photographer I used to burn the soft part pf a board, take a wire wheel and scrape out the burned parts, and mount pictures on the wood with all of the grain showing through the picture. There is a way to peal the image off of the plastic backing of pictures and then mount the picture on most anything. You are saying the Japanese method right!!! What about using rail road ties for the wood to set on. I think that you can get used ones pretty cheep or for free. Personally, I would work with the sleepers on the ground and get all of the problems fixed and then get concrete pillers 4 feet into the ground and pit the sleepers on them for a more perminant situation.
I would put heavy black plastic under the logs to prevent weeds. Might also try the collection bags from a dust collector instead of the bucket. Great job on the videos. How are you doing outside this summer. It’s been miserable here in middle Tennessee.
@Nathan if you have plenty of Flagstone (assuming you are referring to large stone slabs - that’s what we call then in UK) why not use them as a base for your machines instead of concrete?
Hey Nathan, any chance there is a supply of old railway ties somewhere near? Might be an inexpensive way to set up your sleepers! I edged a flower garden with some 18 years ago and they are as solid today as when I put them on the ground! 🤷♂️🤷♂️🤷♂️
Nailing, or leg bolting some wood stops @ the ends of the runners, might prevent bottom "run away" logs" as you stack logs on top of each other, some woven or unwoven fabric as base layer under the runners, restricts weed growth, the weight of the logs may push runners into the sod during wet weather.🗽🇺🇸👌
Nathan, have you ever thought about using some 2-foot by 2-foot concrete pavers for places like underneath your wood splitter outflow table. That may be a cheaper option than poured concrete. Just thinking out loud. I don't know how much they cost.
Looks like the old man needs some roller tables near his mill so to move his cut lumber around, lol 👍🇨🇦❤️ opps spoke too early, you mentioned it to. Oh well . Great minds fart and think alike 😂
Being wrong sometimes is how we learn. That is true and it helps us save face LOL. We have to be able to laugh at our selves in order to remain positive about life. This does not apply to politicians, they just lie and blame someone else.
I love crow. Been eating it all my life Char the wood dark like you have done, evenly leaving very lil white wood showing. Burn the ends pretty black. I know where some 50+ year old fence posts are and there solid as a rock.
It's yakisugi. First character means to burn/roast. In Japanese it can be pronounced shou (which is similar to the Chinese mandarin shao, and is the same character in charsiu pork). Second character refers to cedar in Japanese and fir in Chinese. Ban just means board. Yakisugi is burnt wood, shousugiban malapropism of the finished product.
Torch in video: amzn.to/3ZaehPQ
BBQ ROOSTER! YUM.
Good idea to keep the logs off the ground, I would just suggest using a couple 18" re-bar stakes and drive them into and through the wood to keep them still so rolling the logs over them won't constantly jog them off center.....done this for years back on my farm and it worked great for me.
You've likely noticed that your sawdust bucket isn't catching all that it could. Re-bend the handle or add a collar half way around at the top of the bucket and you'll have less mess. It's funny that the bucket works really well when the mill passes alongside of the trailer tire and the bucket pivots and catches more sawdust, you get a pile of sawdust on the rock - then a clean spot - then another pile. A few months and you'll figure out all kinds of tricks and procedures to increase your output and decrease your clean up time. Thanks for bringing us along.
A temporary measure for the saw dust on the ground would be to place a cheap hardware store tarp on the ground. It will make sawdust cleanup easier. Same thing with the log splitter.
I second that!
Nice! You'll be able to organize by species this way making it way easier to access specific types of lumber.
Nathan, I think you have an excellent idea with the shou sugi ban pine sitting on some stones to keep it above weeds. This will be an interesting test of the durability of pine that employs the shou sugi ban process. Looking forward to your final solution. Stay safe, brother.
Man look at you drop and catch those pine logs with that grapple! You are a pro buddy! That log staging system is a winner and access to the mill is fantastic. Great seeing everything come together Nathan.
Thanks 👍
Yuuup, I like what I see, Nathan !! Yes, you probably need to have some chocks available to prevent the logs from rolling off the sleepers.......?
I liked seeing the log put directly on the mill. Pretty good.
Nathan - Just an idea for cradling your logs to keep them off the ground. If you have any railroad connected friends, find out where they store their new concrete RR ties or recycled concrete ties and acquire some for your use. I ride the train fairly frequently and see many abandoned or unused concrete ties. Just offer to buy some from the supplier and dop them on the ground where you need them. They are already curved so round trunks would naturally roll toward the center.
I did almost the same thing for my logs and I put blocks on the skids to keep the logs from rolling. Hello from Fla.
It is so good to have an open pole barn, hold equipment, provide shade, and a safe place to work.
Great idea for the 6x6. Always room for improvement as you continue.
I would strongly recommend putting chocks behind the rirst log to prevent the pile from rolling out. Not only is that a mess, but it can also be dangerous.
Yeah, I was thinking fixing a wedge to each end to stabilise the stacks.
Use that piece you cut off and some timber screws for blocks.
Kudos on organizing logs & keeping them of ground.
You live in paradise. All the best.
Nathan. Now that you have the space, have you considered making a bunch of 8 ft pallets. You can have one beside the LT 70 to stack lumber straight off the sawmill. This can then be moved to dry then up to the kiln if needed. You will not be moving the sawn timber multiple times by hand
I already do, 8 foot open face ones for air drying,
thanks, for watching
I would use railroad ties. They are designed to last for years with ground contact. I have had some holding rock to stop weeds from around where I park my boat for 12 years and they still look the same as when I picked them up at the lumber yard.
We also used them for 23 years at the pallet mill I worked at for holding our cants and lu.ber off the ground.
Charing lumber was very popular in Norway and other Scandinavian churches. Everything on the exterior of the churches was chard including the shake shingles. The oldest still existing one is in Sweden. It is 500+ years old. England still has one I'll assume is because of the Norse.
Definitely use the flagstone. It will enhance the life of the pine by twice as many years. Earth where and grasses accelerates deterioration
Great video as always Nathan!
One comment, and one tip:
Comment: at 12:07, that angle of the second cut on your first pine was pretty cool. It was neat to be able to see the blade dip and rise like you've talked about a number of times.
Tip: At 22:32, when you're complaining about the starter not working on your torch, try this. Get a pair of needle nose pliers. Leave the gas off. Turn the torch around so you can see down into the black barrel where the flame comes out. There should be a little metallic rod sticking up that's off center and the end has a tapered point to it and is bent towards the middle.
Click the igniter a few times and see if you see a spark from the tip of that metal rod. If you don't, use the pliers to gently bend the rod towards the middle and try the igniter again. Keep repeating until you get a consistent spark.
I have the exact same torch from Amazon and had to do this to mine. It works every time now.
Also ignition clicker works best at a very low flow rate. Turn it down to ignite it and then turn it back up to use it for burning, blackening.
@@MartinFlynn360 That's a good point. Once it's lit, that torch will actually blow itself out in some situations.
Looking good around there Nathan, a separate building for the sawmill and splitter. Then you could turn the pole barn into a separated equipment and mechanical shed. You might want to plant a money tree before you start those builds though. You are doing it the way you want and that's fine. Stay safe and keep up the great videos. Fred.
Years ago I created exposed ceiling timbers. To age them after using my adz, I sprayed them with gasoline, let much of it evaporate, and then set them alight one side at a time. I smothered the flames by rolling the timber over onto the ground. To finish I wired brushed them and applied paste wax to the exposed sides before installation.
Was going mention something similar except with a mix of drain oil and gas. A good way to get rid of sour gas from the boat. There are no reclammation centers for gas that I know of and I have 6 or more gallons on hand. A good friend of mines dad used to soak the bottoms of fence posts in drain oil. When they banned creosole years ago I used drain oil cut with some paint thinner to coat sill plates when I had to open up an exterior wall to replace and repair water damaged framing and sills. Its 100 percent covered so no harm no foul. I am rebuilding my 12 by 16 shed and I will undercoat the boottoms and end grains of the framed deck and also under the 3/4 plywood flooring with that mix. .
I think I would have used the slab wood to set the logs on. They are 12 foot long and a couple inches thick, and you were just going to burn them. I like finding ways to reduce waste. Also, if it is available in your area, recycled concrete is a lot cheaper than gravel.
Concrete for the log splitter will be expensive. With a slabbed area, the cleanup will be easier, quicker and less of a hassle. If it was for me, I would do the slab but, it's you and you're not just the operator but, also the janitor. Blessings to you and family. Be safe, strong, wise and successful in Jesus's Name. ☝🙏🙌💪👊
This was super entertaining! Watching you tackle that crow while managing all the equipment is like a real-life farming vlog! 😂 It's wild how something as simple as a meal can connect with all those tools. Makes you appreciate the hard work behind every bite! 🍽️ Keep it up!
I think you have 'hit the nail right on the head' here. I have long thought that this is what I would do to stack my logs & get them off the ground. I ,personally, would put just a short piece of the 6 x 6 on the ends of each piece just to make sure the bottom logs don't roll off the end as you start to add logs on top. Also I think your idea of laying down gravel to help keep the weeds down for growing up between the logs is almost 'a must do' idea. I know the gravel is a bit expensive but I think the advantage of having it would eventually outweigh the cost & make your log storage much neater & easier to access. Cheers, Don from South Australia.
Nathan that new building is really nice. Lots of room everywhere. Great video 👍❤️
I had to take a few notes.....
The log splitter, I think that placement works well, you can always grab it with the Tracker and pull it out 20-30 feet when you use it and avoid the mess on the gravel?
I gotta say, that is the first time I have seen you drop a log straight onto the mill with the tractor. My cheeks were puckered, wondering if yours were as well??
The roller table set up 'ole Professor Milton has is definitely something I will be trying to replicate! He really does make it look easy, don't he!!
The LT70 is sure looking purdy all cleaned up and in its new home! I think the new barn is really starting to come together!
I've seen a bunch of different opinions on the burning techniques. Some say burn it until it starts getting a "crackled" look to it. I have sold a lot of outdoor furniture over the last 10 years or so. Porch swings, Adirondack chairs, picnic tables, and the like. I used that technique many times, and I burned it about as much as I just watched you do, and I have yet to hear any complaints. I regularly see a picnic table and porch bed I made for my sister in law about 6-7 years ago, and they both seem to be holding up just fine.
Thanks for another great video, Nathan! Always a pleasure to watch!!!!!
It has been wonderful to watch you grow your business. Good for you and continued successes.
Probably back in the 1950s, it became necessary to surround my family’s lumberyard with chain link fencing having barbed wire running along the top. I am glad to see you’re in a place where that isn’t necessary.
Hi Nathan. Just incase you didn't notice, the hydraulic hoses going to your Log Clamp attachment are dragging on the ground.
Some of your cut offs can be packaged as snuggle wood 6 piece bundle for 6 or so dollars great for people in the summer you can do it by the roadside on the honor system
For a pad for the log splitter, you may want to look into some concrete pavers. Just lay them out sorta like a small patio. I dont know about where you are but here there are a couple of contractors that have sales every 6 months or so where they sell off the "extras" from jobs that did not get used. I just bought 4 pallets of cinder blocks for about 20% of what they sell for in the box stores, I got all 4 pallets for less than the cost of one pallet at the store. Last year I bought enough bricks to make a walkway from my garage to the front door. it is about 4 feet wide and 35 feet long and it cost me $110 (not counting the mortar, jut bricks). Granted, typically I find mixed lots, so that not everything matches exactly but for something like a working pad, who cares if they all match or not. Also Facebook marketplace and craigslist are great places for finding free pavers people are wanting to get rid of. Collect a few here and there and when you have enough, bingo, free pad. Just a thought.
My log splitter is on dirt, I would recommend putting the splitter on multiple layers of Geotextile - I have started setting implements on cheap shipping pallets. Find some salvage roller conveyor sections for your slab drop.
A nice back stop to stop the logs from rolling off the end would be nice. Keep checking out Lowes and Home Depot for lighting going on sale for the new mill shed, better to buy it now when the fall sales start and have them in stock when your ready to set up the lighting, it will save you time and $$$$$.
I had left you a comment about the gravel you buy for $35 a ton. I got about 18 ton from Powell Valley Stone in Lee county VA and it was under $20 a ton which even with haul bill included. The driver said they deliver to your area also so if you need more it would be worth checking on.
Down here in NZ that blue stain is called Sap Stain and is treated very soon after harvesting by way off a spray, it is considered a defect and can not be used in a building situation. Great to see you finaly getting organised .😀
Interesting!
Nominal size is what you get as a finished product 5 1/2 x 5 1/2 and rough sawn is actual size 6” x 6”. Nominal comes after actual is dress or planed.
The typical nominal dimensions for wood, such as 2 x 4, refer to the thickness and the width of the wood. If a third number is added onto the nominal dimensions, such as 2 x 4 x 96, it indicates the length of the wood.
Nominal: 1 x 2 Actual Size: 3/4 x 1-1/2
@@gslope1I agree. Nominal is the “2x4” and “6x6”. Actual is what it really is
Nominal means In name only folks.
You keep upping your game Nathan! Awesome
Good video 👍 I think you have a good plan to organize your logs, and especially getting them up off the ground. Your building looks great 😊 A tarp, temporarily, under you splitter can make cleanup easier 🤷
Nathan, your shed is shrinking. Two sayings I've heard...People build their houses too big and their barns too small :-). AND...We suffer from goldfish syndrome. We tend to grow according to the size of our containers :-). Really like your videos!
Nathan, just a suggestion, go to harbor freight and buy two large heavy weight traps to put under your log splitter and when your finished splitting put the log splitter on away fold up thr bark and chips and load it into the tractor bucket. 😎👍
Just a thought, you could load that dump trailer with several logs at a time and get them moved fairly quickly. Then bring the tractor down and stack them. You probably have tons of them to move may help out.
good idea for sure
Good to see you feeling better Nathan. Thanks for sharing your day and progress. D
Not all videos are in sequence, example, this video preceded the sun nite live. 👮 Videos frequently held in Queue 👌
Nathan, you may want to check with some local
industrial salvage/resale operations, for your
roller/conveyor table idea. you might find a good deal. 😁✌🖖
Love, love the new building. It's great to watch you sawing again.
Back many years ago, when I was a boy scout we used that burning method for post for a shelter we built. It lasted for years. We didn't have propane though. We used a fire.
On to something else. I really think the splitter needs its own shelter. I don't think you'll want all that debris in your big building. Just my opinion.
Another great Video Nathan, great job.
The wood splitter will make a huge mess under the shed. As far as the sleepers go, a heavy char and paint them with used transmission oil, and they'll last a long time, especially if you put stone down instead of just on the ground.
I spray around all my logs with a one year spray called "Barrier". Works good to keep grass and weeds out of my log piles.
ill check that out
Those slabs will make a great lean to or shack or shed for the firewood splitter!!! It does not need to be a decorative piece for the log yard!!! A few cants in the ground as corner pieces plus if needed center posts with Y2k then screw the slabs on the sides / top. A rustic shed and burn the wood with your torch!!! Make it about 6 to 8 feet too long so it is cover on the ends... Top and the long walls covered in slabs, wide enough to add other objects on the long walls... So drive in one end then out the other leaving the machine in the middle with four feet at each end!!!! If you like add rustic barn doors to both ends!!!!
Looking good Nathan. I like the new log area and you are doing great in your new organized barn. Will you make a space/ stack for each species of wood? Do you have room in that area? That wood make it super easy to keep logs species organized and neat. I am enjoying watching the new place and work area come together.
Hi Nathan really enjoy your content. Have an idea if you put the tractor with the grapple next to the table and just slide slabs onto the forks god bless R
Landscapers can sometimes have scrap pavers and such. Those could be handy for ur log deck….
Hi Nathan, Myles from down in Western Panama. I watch your videos to relax, I really enjoy them. Seems to me if you could get your hands on a bigger bucket, it would capture nearly all of your dust. Would be a cheap and suitable alternative to some big vacuum system.
"You're better off pulling from the top, but I need that stuff from the bottom." That's always the way. Happens to me with all my folded and stacked fabric.
Reckon doing 6x6 is overkill for those Bunts. The slab bits bit you put on the fire would be just as good as bunts or maybe just skim a bit off top and bottom of those logs and call it done. No need to square off the sides. Might help them last even longer.
Really coming together Nathan. Looks great
You had it backwards. Nominal is what you buy at big box stores. Nominal, meaning resembling, or relating to. A nominal 2x4 resembles something 2" by 4" but isn't actually that dimension. Actual is, well, lumber labeled as the actual physical dimensions of the board.
Hi Nathan & it's is Randy and i like yours video is Cool & Thanks Nathan & Friends Randy
Good idea might be to put 12x10 cheap tarp under splitter to catch bark chips etc Good luck Sawmill looks 🔥
Nathan, what about geo fabric under the stringers covering the void between the timber, for weed control . the barn is looking good 👍👍
Delicious crow made me think of weird non-standard bbq....but I am guessing it is wood related instead of weird food. :) Since I am at the beginning of the video I look forward to seeing which is right.
Nathan, you're awesome!
Wouldn't flattening the ground side only work better? That way you have a very fine contact line with the logs sitting on the top due to the curved shape. You could still smoke em all around. Btw, they do make an oil preservative for wood. Must include the word "preservative in its title.
Instead of 6x6's, get some old utility poles and cut them to length. They will last a far longer on the ground, so you can use the 6x6's for something else.
@OutoftheWoods0623 That's some pristine claw work, hoss. 😎
Boy I wish I was close enough to buy your off cuts!!! As a professional photographer I used to burn the soft part pf a board, take a wire wheel and scrape out the burned parts, and mount pictures on the wood with all of the grain showing through the picture. There is a way to peal the image off of the plastic backing of pictures and then mount the picture on most anything. You are saying the Japanese method right!!! What about using rail road ties for the wood to set on. I think that you can get used ones pretty cheep or for free. Personally, I would work with the sleepers on the ground and get all of the problems fixed and then get concrete pillers 4 feet into the ground and pit the sleepers on them for a more perminant situation.
I would put heavy black plastic under the logs to prevent weeds. Might also try the collection bags from a dust collector instead of the bucket. Great job on the videos. How are you doing outside this summer. It’s been miserable here in middle Tennessee.
I would check the price of asphalt or cold mix for a floor for that wood splitter. Cold mix you can haul and spread yourself, saving a bunch of $$$$$
The LT70 is a beautiful pc of equipment. You could probably put a wedge shape pc of wood on your bunks so the logs won’t roll towards you driveway
I think your ADD is like mine...lol. i like things in order and looking good! Looks great and do what YOU think needs done, brother!
I appreciate that!
Amazing to see lush green everywhere around your place where here in NorCal, it's all brown. :~(
@Nathan if you have plenty of Flagstone (assuming you are referring to large stone slabs - that’s what we call then in UK) why not use them as a base for your machines instead of concrete?
Your place looks amazing.
Hey Nathan, any chance there is a supply of old railway ties somewhere near? Might be an inexpensive way to set up your sleepers! I edged a flower garden with some 18 years ago and they are as solid today as when I put them on the ground! 🤷♂️🤷♂️🤷♂️
Nailing, or leg bolting some wood stops @ the ends of the runners, might prevent bottom "run away" logs" as you stack logs on top of each other, some woven or unwoven fabric as base layer under the runners, restricts weed growth, the weight of the logs may push runners into the sod during wet weather.🗽🇺🇸👌
Some people also oil them after burning so they last even longer.
Looks to me like all you need is a bigger bucket with a loose fitting hood on top, sort of like a golf bag rain cover.
Nathan, have you ever thought about using some 2-foot by 2-foot concrete pavers for places like underneath your wood splitter outflow table. That may be a cheaper option than poured concrete. Just thinking out loud. I don't know how much they cost.
Great video!
Thanks!
Use railraod ties, it's what I use.
I would be tempted to just saw two sides to 6" and not worry about the width. A little extra material may last a little longer.
Don't feel bad about sometimes getting “nominal” and “actual” mixed up. Those girls in Pennsylvania did it a while back on camera too.
Will you bring burn pile to barn or continue taking slabs to the house to burn?
I've thought about driving some T posts at the end of my log bunks to help the backside roll. Might be a good thing for you as well Nathan.
Good tip!
@@OutoftheWoods0623 just a thought
Look up Shawn James another you tuber that's off grid. He does this on all his ground contact wood. Cheers
A good day all round.
I've commented before with a question about using Cedar first cuts off the sides of the logs and ground cover and protect the logs?
Never heard torching a log would prevent rot. Good to know!
Yep, charring wood will make it last forever. Good to get the logs off the ground. You will like it and do more.
Looks like the old man needs some roller tables near his mill so to move his cut lumber around, lol 👍🇨🇦❤️ opps spoke too early, you mentioned it to. Oh well . Great minds fart and think alike 😂
What you get at Lowe's (ect) is dimensional. Actual works too.
You mighty want to consider safety stops of some sort at the back of your log stack so that the logs don't accidently roll down onto the road.
Hey Nathan, if you had to give up the Wood-Mizer LT70 what wood you get 🤔
Being wrong sometimes is how we learn. That is true and it helps us save face LOL. We have to be able to laugh at our selves in order to remain positive about life. This does not apply to politicians, they just lie and blame someone else.
Nathan,I have a few 5 ft sections like yer buddy hobby hardwoods. I am in Toledo, Ohio though.
I love crow. Been eating it all my life
Char the wood dark like you have done, evenly leaving very lil white wood showing. Burn the ends pretty black. I know where some 50+ year old fence posts are and there solid as a rock.
Is the storage closet in the new barn coming soon? I know you'd like your chainsaw for trim and other tools closer on hand.
It's yakisugi. First character means to burn/roast. In Japanese it can be pronounced shou (which is similar to the Chinese mandarin shao, and is the same character in charsiu pork). Second character refers to cedar in Japanese and fir in Chinese. Ban just means board. Yakisugi is burnt wood, shousugiban malapropism of the finished product.
How much maintentence, daily or weekly, is required on your mill? Love the vids!!
By the way, the lighter for that torch is called a "Match."
Ture it 90 and set the log splitter so it under the lean toon the dirt