Hey just a heads up- I made a slight revision to my circuit- I changed the 22k mixing resistor to 470 ohms and changed the capacitor to a 47uf bipolar capacitor. I did this because I felt that the high end was a bit lacking and the circuit probably wanted to be driven by a lower impedance source. And it worked- audio quality improved as I hoped. Also: I don’t think I went into why I put the capacitor into the circuit in the first place. It’s because the data inputs are biased above ground, at about .74 volts, so you need the capacitor to avoid messing up the bias. I’ll put up an addendum video about this later if I have time. Thanks for watching!
This is great! I did pull all the knobs & faders off of my unit when I wanted to see what's up with the record buttons (2 or 3 of them did not have a click and it was bothering me that much), but I would not recommend that to anyone 😅the knobs are very tight and hard to pull off. As it turned out, those record buttons are very funky, there is a microswitch on the board, then a long, cone shaped plastic piece, then a plastic end-cap that can be seen from the top. The end cap can be popped off from the outside, then I used my screwdriver to jam in the cone shaped plastic, pulled it off, rotated 180 degrees then put it back. Now all of them have the same clicky feel as they should. The other thing I did was, because I've heard these units tend to have a power switch issue where it randomly stops powering on, I soldered the power switches two legs together on the motherboard with a very small wire. (Someone had an idea that this issue might be because a loose connection of the power switch to the motherboard, and that connection did not seem to be very stable, so that might be the case). I will need this mixer in live situations and I wanted to get rid of this issue where it might stop working when everything depends on it. After all this, I'm still very satisfied with the Model 12. These things are much easier (for me at least) to bypass than for example, my old M-Audio interface which had USB driver issues, passing some digital noise and popping to the PC from time to time, reinstalling the driver every wheek when this occured, and its driver crashing my Windows PC from time to time. Or when I've seen a live broadcast where they used an Allen & Heath CQ mixer, which had the same USB driver-related popping and intermittent noise issue. Being a 3-day live event, they were only able to solve it for the second day. And the Model 12 just works fine.
TISINO 1/4 TRS to Dual 1/4 TS Y-Cable These Insert cables are used for creating a real-time effects loop by connecting a channel insert on an audio mixing board to an external effects processor with 1/4" unbalanced connections. Connect the TRS plug into the "insert" jack of your mixing board. The tip of the jack is a send (sending a mono signal to an external effects professor) and the ring is the return (returning a mono signal from the external effects processor back into the mixing board). This cable can also be used to split an unbalanced stereo signal into two unbalanced mono signals or to combine two mono signals into a single stereo signal.
Well done. Amazing how one's will to get things to work, will find the way. One thing I would add in the future is a small stereo input level knob, replacing the 220K. You can set the Bluetooth to CH9/10 to monitor the incoming levels on the screen, just to be sure, and then switch back to the main bus.
This awesome, my older mackie has a main out insert that I’ve found is great for adding compression, eq, bbe, things of that sort to the main mix. Was wondering how to best connect those things to the tascam. Should I just run the outs straight through these things to speakers? I love this fx return mod, I may have to give it a go.
Hi Sean, this was awesome and very inspiring. I have a few questions for you, though, if you can spare the time: 1. how hard would it be to add inserts to channels 3 through 6? I realize there's little space between the mic/line inputs and the click/footswitch/midi section, but do you think it could be done? That back section would look pretty horrible, but I guess having hardware inserts on every mono channel would be pretty awesome. 2. do you know if the hardware inserts are usable while mixing? I'm having trouble getting signal to mine at the mixing stage. Comp, eq and fx work fine, but the inserts seem to be dormant during mixing. I wonder if that's so or if it's a problem with my unit. 3. do you know if the pre-mod return method to one stereo channel lets you affect the effect with its channel strip's eq and compression? 4. regarding your mod, your return is stereo, correct? If you were to plug a mono reverb (for instance) into it, would the connection assume a mono return and sound ok, or would it sound slightly panned/impaired? 5. did you happen to see what the built-in fx are? I think it's a Belton brick, but haven't opened mine yet. Thanks again for the video!
@@diogomp81 1) I think this would be more difficult, the insert jacks are going to need an amplifier and an input buffer which likely don’t exist on the board. 2) the inserts only work during recording, not playback, the playback signal doesn’t get routed to them. 3)yes that would allow you to use the channels eq and compression 4) yes the return is stereo, if you plug a mono cable into the jack you would get only the left channel unless you buy a special jack and wire it up correctly 5) the built in effects are all time based stuff like reverb, delay, phaser etc. I don’t know how they are implemented
Have you tried using it to get master bus compression? I think it should work, as well as external master fx. I’m gonna do this while I’m repairing the power switch. Great video, I wish UA-camr recommended it to me soon. I’ve looked over that block diagram a million times and never noticed the Bluetootht typo lol
@@zombienoob410 I have been using it for time based effects returns like reverb etc. if you want to use it for compression, be careful not to mix the compressed signal with uncompressed versions of the same track because you’ll have phase issues. I think that’s why compression is usually an insert effect.
NICE! I'm about to upgrade my DP-24 to one of these, and I am DEF doing this mod! I still can't wrap my brain around how it works... even without the mod. So there are 2 AUX sends, and one goes out into your reverb... then where do you plug the output without your mod? another channel? if so, what is the use for the AUX knobs? I'm not thinking 3 dimensionally, I know.. but I will be back with some questions on the mod when my mixer arrives! like.. if you were to add a volume pot, how would you do it amd what value and such?
The aux knobs could be used for mixing live and sending signal to stage monitors or in ear monitors. For recording they can also be send to a headphone amp to create monitor mixes for the performers. You can also use them to send to external effects and back to the M12 via the stereo 7/8 and 9/10 channels - that’s how I use them.
@@4Ever4Track I'm sad to say I actually kept my DP24 instead of getting the model 12.. the DP24 has 2 effect sends and alot more tracks and easily assignable inputs. i hope the model 12 doesn't have assignable inputs to channel, or I will regret not getting it 😬
@@totalSLACK on the M12 it’s a little different but the result is the same. You could record all of your tracks from track 1. Instead of assigning input 1 to track 2 or whatever, you record it on track 1 and then “swap” the recorded track with any open track. So you can still record all tracks without changing your input.
When the model 12 receives audio signals from the computer via usb do the individual channels have separate adc? Are the eqs and compressor on the 12 digital or analog? Thanks
I’m trying out the radial extc stereo effects reamper - trying to take the sub signal and re-record them to 9/10 or 7/8. Just got it today so I have no idea if it works. Good thinking outside the box. I have had zero success with the y insert cable. No idea what I was doing wrong
Nice work! Did you think about adding a pot to control the amount of signal? Also, when you were getting ready to drill the hole, I was thinking a glob of modeling clay or silly putty on the inside would catch the metal shavings. Just a thought. Thanks!
@@BOBBY-w8c so, when you play through the Bluetooth it temporarily turns off the sound coming through the effects return. After you stop it turns the effects return signal back on, after 15 seconds or so. I don’t know why it does this, it’s almost like it’s designed to have a signal at that point.
Hey just a heads up- I made a slight revision to my circuit- I changed the 22k mixing resistor to 470 ohms and changed the capacitor to a 47uf bipolar capacitor. I did this because I felt that the high end was a bit lacking and the circuit probably wanted to be driven by a lower impedance source. And it worked- audio quality improved as I hoped.
Also: I don’t think I went into why I put the capacitor into the circuit in the first place. It’s because the data inputs are biased above ground, at about .74 volts, so you need the capacitor to avoid messing up the bias. I’ll put up an addendum video about this later if I have time. Thanks for watching!
Can you make an updated schematic? To copy?
@@BOBBY-w8csame schematic, just different value cap and resistor.
This is great!
I did pull all the knobs & faders off of my unit when I wanted to see what's up with the record buttons (2 or 3 of them did not have a click and it was bothering me that much), but I would not recommend that to anyone 😅the knobs are very tight and hard to pull off. As it turned out, those record buttons are very funky, there is a microswitch on the board, then a long, cone shaped plastic piece, then a plastic end-cap that can be seen from the top. The end cap can be popped off from the outside, then I used my screwdriver to jam in the cone shaped plastic, pulled it off, rotated 180 degrees then put it back. Now all of them have the same clicky feel as they should.
The other thing I did was, because I've heard these units tend to have a power switch issue where it randomly stops powering on, I soldered the power switches two legs together on the motherboard with a very small wire. (Someone had an idea that this issue might be because a loose connection of the power switch to the motherboard, and that connection did not seem to be very stable, so that might be the case). I will need this mixer in live situations and I wanted to get rid of this issue where it might stop working when everything depends on it.
After all this, I'm still very satisfied with the Model 12. These things are much easier (for me at least) to bypass than for example, my old M-Audio interface which had USB driver issues, passing some digital noise and popping to the PC from time to time, reinstalling the driver every wheek when this occured, and its driver crashing my Windows PC from time to time.
Or when I've seen a live broadcast where they used an Allen & Heath CQ mixer, which had the same USB driver-related popping and intermittent noise issue. Being a 3-day live event, they were only able to solve it for the second day.
And the Model 12 just works fine.
Absolutely love that you've done this and shared, thank you so much!! I'd love to do it myself and not use channels 1+2 as my stereo returns.
You, sir, are a god-tier Model 12 user
That is super cool, nice sleuthing and awesome mod.
Way to go! Clever.
Great job! Very interesting! You’re a daring guy!
Super cool. Ive been missing having a return. Thanks
Great video. Definitely interesting. Put more videos out!
Excellent mod, Great video. Would be interetsed to see vids on your home built FX pedals.
The stones on you .. kudos 👍
I always wanted an insert on the master. Would love to put my SSL bus comp there.
TISINO 1/4 TRS to Dual 1/4 TS Y-Cable
These Insert cables are used for creating a real-time effects loop by connecting a channel insert on an audio mixing board to an external effects processor with 1/4" unbalanced connections. Connect the TRS plug into the "insert" jack of your mixing board. The tip of the jack is a send (sending a mono signal to an external effects professor) and the ring is the return (returning a mono signal from the external effects processor back into the mixing board). This cable can also be used to split an unbalanced stereo signal into two unbalanced mono signals or to combine two mono signals into a single stereo signal.
wow remarkable undertaking! Your music is fantastic as well. Cheers!
Thank you so much!
Well done. Amazing how one's will to get things to work, will find the way. One thing I would add in the future is a small stereo input level knob, replacing the 220K. You can set the Bluetooth to CH9/10 to monitor the incoming levels on the screen, just to be sure, and then switch back to the main bus.
Nicely done
This awesome, my older mackie has a main out insert that I’ve found is great for adding compression, eq, bbe, things of that sort to the main mix. Was wondering how to best connect those things to the tascam. Should I just run the outs straight through these things to speakers? I love this fx return mod, I may have to give it a go.
This is really cool.
Hi Sean, this was awesome and very inspiring. I have a few questions for you, though, if you can spare the time:
1. how hard would it be to add inserts to channels 3 through 6? I realize there's little space between the mic/line inputs and the click/footswitch/midi section, but do you think it could be done? That back section would look pretty horrible, but I guess having hardware inserts on every mono channel would be pretty awesome.
2. do you know if the hardware inserts are usable while mixing? I'm having trouble getting signal to mine at the mixing stage. Comp, eq and fx work fine, but the inserts seem to be dormant during mixing. I wonder if that's so or if it's a problem with my unit.
3. do you know if the pre-mod return method to one stereo channel lets you affect the effect with its channel strip's eq and compression?
4. regarding your mod, your return is stereo, correct? If you were to plug a mono reverb (for instance) into it, would the connection assume a mono return and sound ok, or would it sound slightly panned/impaired?
5. did you happen to see what the built-in fx are? I think it's a Belton brick, but haven't opened mine yet.
Thanks again for the video!
@@diogomp81 1) I think this would be more difficult, the insert jacks are going to need an amplifier and an input buffer which likely don’t exist on the board.
2) the inserts only work during recording, not playback, the playback signal doesn’t get routed to them.
3)yes that would allow you to use the channels eq and compression
4) yes the return is stereo, if you plug a mono cable into the jack you would get only the left channel unless you buy a special jack and wire it up correctly
5) the built in effects are all time based stuff like reverb, delay, phaser etc. I don’t know how they are implemented
Have you tried using it to get master bus compression? I think it should work, as well as external master fx. I’m gonna do this while I’m repairing the power switch.
Great video, I wish UA-camr recommended it to me soon. I’ve looked over that block diagram a million times and never noticed the Bluetootht typo lol
@@zombienoob410 I have been using it for time based effects returns like reverb etc. if you want to use it for compression, be careful not to mix the compressed signal with uncompressed versions of the same track because you’ll have phase issues. I think that’s why compression is usually an insert effect.
Fantastic!
NICE! I'm about to upgrade my DP-24 to one of these, and I am DEF doing this mod! I still can't wrap my brain around how it works... even without the mod. So there are 2 AUX sends, and one goes out into your reverb... then where do you plug the output without your mod? another channel? if so, what is the use for the AUX knobs? I'm not thinking 3 dimensionally, I know..
but I will be back with some questions on the mod when my mixer arrives! like.. if you were to add a volume pot, how would you do it amd what value and such?
The aux knobs could be used for mixing live and sending signal to stage monitors or in ear monitors. For recording they can also be send to a headphone amp to create monitor mixes for the performers. You can also use them to send to external effects and back to the M12 via the stereo 7/8 and 9/10 channels - that’s how I use them.
@@4Ever4Track I'm sad to say I actually kept my DP24 instead of getting the model 12.. the DP24 has 2 effect sends and alot more tracks and easily assignable inputs. i hope the model 12 doesn't have assignable inputs to channel, or I will regret not getting it 😬
@@totalSLACK on the M12 it’s a little different but the result is the same. You could record all of your tracks from track 1. Instead of assigning input 1 to track 2 or whatever, you record it on track 1 and then “swap” the recorded track with any open track. So you can still record all tracks without changing your input.
@@4Ever4Track DOH! 🤦🏽♂️
Let Tascam know.
When the model 12 receives audio signals from the computer via usb do the individual channels have separate adc? Are the eqs and compressor on the 12 digital or analog? Thanks
I’m trying out the radial extc stereo effects reamper - trying to take the sub signal and re-record them to 9/10 or 7/8. Just got it today so I have no idea if it works. Good thinking outside the box. I have had zero success with the y insert cable. No idea what I was doing wrong
Nice work! Did you think about adding a pot to control the amount of signal? Also, when you were getting ready to drill the hole, I was thinking a glob of modeling clay or silly putty on the inside would catch the metal shavings. Just a thought. Thanks!
That might work! I thought about a return level knob but I was lazy. I might add one later.
"BluetoothT" 😂😂
Rather use a channel and use the eq , nice mod still
Cac Bluetooth still work? Can a switch between the 2 modes be applied?
@@BOBBY-w8c so, when you play through the Bluetooth it temporarily turns off the sound coming through the effects return. After you stop it turns the effects return signal back on, after 15 seconds or so.
I don’t know why it does this, it’s almost like it’s designed to have a signal at that point.
Got a Schematic?
Any you could post the components needed to make this mod?