Install Raid for Free ✅ IOS/ANDROID/PC: clcr.me/F23_BisforBuild and get a special starter pack with an Epic champion Chonoru 💥 Join a special Valentine’s Day-themed adventure ❤ raidlovequest.plarium.com ❤ with the Raid Love Quest to win some fantastic in-game and real life prizes 🎁 Promo codes: ✅ Use the Promo Code RAIDRONDA to get a bunch of helpful stuff. Available to ALL users: New and Old by February 28 ✅ Use the Promo Code READY4RAID to get great pre-anniversary bonuses. Available for New users only by February 28 *Note that only 1 Promo code can be used within 24hours
Not an expert but, I've heard that welding directly to the frame can cause weekpoints and can crack the frame. Saw a video about ram truck frames literally splitting in half where they welded aftermarket beds.
For your next giveaway build do a small car like a 1998 Honda Civic DX Hatchback 2D with Blueprint's 340-HP 3,6 Liter Four-Cylinder LS-Headed crate engine. I would love to see you guys built that.
Okay car I want you guys to build in your flavor 1986 Arrow glass Monte Carlo except for we're going to do it with the Hemi under glass Style but we're going to use a Ferrari v-12 rear-mounted from a Testarossa under the glass
You should build the camper using Aluminium to save weight. You gonna be surprise how quickly you'll reach maximum payload before even having the camper fully loaded.
Especially on rams, right at the edge of the cab they’re super prone to bending the frame due to no bracing, ford puts thick ass plates in that area. Hopefully they do that. But who knows
@@KDlGG You ain't going to bend a 3rd gen very easily.. The new 2019+ trucks have had some serious issues though. It's kind of funny to think any frame dodge made on the 3rd and 4th gens are stronger than their new, redesigned "5th" gen frames.
I'm always surprised how much they build out of thick steel. It is easier to make sure things don't bend, and are safe, but I feel like a lot of their cars are heavier than they need to be. Colin Chapman would not approve.
I’m no engineer, but I think isolating the oem cab from the custom camper box is the way to go fellas. It will fall apart otherwise. That’s how the eom tray is built and the factory guys know what they’re doing generally.
Aluminum box would definitely save on weight, also from the trucking industry sometimes we use rubber "thresholds" that go between the sleeper and the driving area to allow flex and the option to not have a sleeper unit. Might be a good way to go from cab to the back of the truck in your case as well
@@jaynecobb1 UA-cam has an example of a CF camper, something along the lines of "World's Lightest ExpeditionVehicle!". Problem -- a light breeze punched it into the next zip-code. True fact...
Old minitruck walkthrough beds would use a rubber gasket between the cab and the box/camper shell to let everything flex. Yes, welding a bunch of steel to make the frame less flexy will help, but it might still flex enough that a rubber section between the cab and camper would be beneficial.
Its going to be interesting to see how this turns out, I do think itll be ok, but if not, ill be getting the rubber gaskets and going that route. This is just something i really want to try and see if we can pull it off. Its similar to the first time we started cutting cars up in weird ways. Its alot of real world testing to see how things react.
Yeah, it's a regular cab (1999 xtreme) with cab high fiberglass topper. It still wobbles/flexes even just shutting the doors hard. Didnt do anything to reinforce it, but no leaks! Both ends of the rubber just clipped on and added some rtv. Car custom shops were stupid expensive, but ordered this by the foot, it was just lil over $100 (5yrs or so ago)
He is going to need to use the accordion boot to connect it... It's how sleepers are attached to tractor cabs.... It's how I connect my bed to my cab on my 2010 taco...
Killer build! About your airbags, I would recommend running your rear airbags with a few pounds of air in them. It would keep it from creating negative pressure and collapsing while traveling. If and when this happens, it can pinch and put a wonderful split in your bag making it useless.
You need to do a pivot system. It's what they use for Unimogs when adding a custom box in the back. Also you can extend the chassy 1meter to fit a bigger box. Aluminium for light weight. Like so Chris can see
Yall should install another dualy axle on it too :D that would be dope and honestly it would probably help out with any potential tongue weight issues since the hitch is so much farther away from the rear axle. Food for thought :)
Chris, might want to keep in mind people have to pay taxes on cars from the giveaway. While winning a GTR or Ferrari would be cool, that and maintenance costs might make it less attractive than a 370z or similar cost car.
Chris you should drop that floor frame down 600mm off the back of chassis as you'll gain not only interior height But will also have less a step getting in and out back
I love when the giveaway calls are recorded, it's so freaking wholesome. For the next giveaway, how about a (decently used) Porsche Cayman track style build? Idk prices on them, but man. That would be cool to see on here
To efficiently increase torsional stiffness in the chassis it is best to use large dimension hollow sections as cross members. Tubes are best but rectangular will work too. The more the better.
With that space under the bed, you should look into a generator like for a rv. Also a mini split heat pump for the ac. We have one on our horse trailer and love it.
I vote for a second row of wheels if you’re going to tow anything heavier than a jet ski. Triangulation as a minimum. Cool build guys. Remember when fitting out the interior, make everything multi purpose if you can. Check out some factory campers for ideas. Looking forward to the next episode 😎
For worrying about flex between the cabin and bed; what if you added a flexible accordion seal like you see on some busses and trains? That ways it’s sealed but can still flex a little if needed?
The next giveaway should be an Old Pickup truck. A 67-72 chevy in particular as it offers a lot of options for bolt on updates. In many cases Factory GM components from trucks as new as the 1990's just bolt on (brakes, power trains, lights and such) making for an easy quick project with lots of design potential. It would also be a great platform for the B is for Build design flair without getting too far into the weeds with making body panels. Combine this with a good tow hitch and you can call it the toy hauler. If you want to get a little crazy with the fabrication you can swap out the stock dashboard for one out of a 65/66 chevy which looks a little more aggressive and would be an interesting fabrication project to make fit especially with the addition of a touch panel radio or something. Finally these trucks have an Enormous following which would potentially expose your channel to a new audience.
Don’t underestimate the weight of everything. A 1 ton pickup with an aluminum sled deck with two sleds feels way heavier than you’d think. And this is going to be 3-4 times that weight with similar center of gravity
its crazy how much this channel has grown/existed, I remember when you did that fj build, heck I remember coming home from school to check out the next BRZ update.
Loving how this is coming together. This is the perfect build for touring the country for racing with race car in tow. Can't wait for the next episode!
congrats to the winner! Next contest, i'd love to see an old school muscle car, but with a resto-mod feel to it. Nice A body classic muscle, but with modern stuff....much like Chip Foose style would be totally awesome!
Should take a look at bi-articulated buses. That acordian type piece in the middle might be the perfect way to attach these 2 halves together but still allow flew between the camper and cab.
A cool idea would be to do a giveaway of say a (e.g. 20k) budget and you guys build the winners car/truck of choice, then you get a series of content, and the winner gets their dream project build done for them or perhaps they could come and help if they were mechanically minded. Just a random thought!
for an overlanding build, id almost do an EXO cage on the cab end that is part of the rear floor frame as well, so that it is nice and rigid. plus, gives so much more room in the cab
Was unsure at first how interesting this project was going to be, but now I can’t wait to watch and follow along! This thing is going to be nasty when it’s finished!
Next giveaway should be an Audi or a Lexus. Or even a 90s Honda Accord/civic/integra. The aftermarket parts for those are everywhere that could be a good build done fast and probably fairly cheap
Am David an Electrical/Clinical Engineer from Ghana west African, I have been watching your videos for some time now and I must confess your living my dream life. I admire you and wish we meet one day so that we would talk for me to get more inspiration from you. Be blessed.
This is finally starting to take shape and is looking good. Yeah, we definitely got hit with some serious snow, glad you were able to make it out safely.
Things I learned doing my build. Use a mini split ac. Vitrifrigo refrigerator. Honda 2200 with extended run cap. Diesel heater. Marine water heater that can be heated with the truck coolant or 110.
Now that you've extended the rear frame, I think you're going to need a 3rd axle just to support the whole camper thing, also to keep if it from tumbling backwards now that it'll surely be rear-heavy.
Third axle, or even sliding the existing axle back would also help with departure angle if they intend to really bring this thing “off-road”. I’d think even a moderate incline would have the tow hitch scraping as it is right now
@@BisforBuild There's also a 1100-1200lb engine practically over the front axle, and these trucks have damn near 5000lbs on the front two tires, so adding that extra weight cantilevered that far behind the rear axle will be just fine.
@@BisforBuild It's all well and good. We'll see when the whole cabin is built if it'll need it or not. Also reading from some of the comments, you'll probably gonna need additional bracing underneath to further strengthen the stock truck chassis.
Fun build! I would check out suspension upgrades to increase total payload - you may want to look into how much weight the system can normally support and what options there may be for adjustable heavier duty suspensiom for the rear.
Good to hear your still cancer free, you and the crew make some good builds and can’t wait to see how this one turns out p.s. going have to get some mech to try and win next giveaway
A cool trend of overlanding vehicles hitting the mainstream modding car culture these days. Pretty cool. I just bought a Cayenne Turbo S 955 to overland in luxury.
IN RESPONSE TO YOUR FUTURE CAR GIVEAWAYS...I think it's better if you give away cars you build and modify a little rather than exotic and expensive supercars...yes supercars would be cool but I think the majority of simple subscribers as myself wouldn't be able to afford the upkeep and maintenance of supercars..plus we would enjoy and have more fun with a daily driver or one you can take to the track every weekend!!! Just my opinion Chris....and congrats on your positive medical news buddy! And what a pleasure it would be to win an official B is for Build car all the way in the Caribbean...Trinidad and Tobago 🇹🇹 🇹🇹 🇹🇹
Don't forget to weld sleeves in the holes that you drilled out for the camper floor for added strength. If you don't, the holes will get bigger and eventually rip out from the bolts and the rear camper will be sliding only relying on the welds that are on the cab.
This comment needs to be higher. You have to do this same thing for FIA seat rails and thats just for the weight of your body, this is hundreds of pounds of steel. Definitely needs to add sleeves to keep those mounting points safe from stretching over time.
@@kylebutleracoustic I believe that there is too much overhang from the rear suspension. Vehicle turning will hit parked cars or rubbishbins. I would of grinded off the weld before the rear suspension and added the framework there.
this is my least favorite B is For build project. Being a transit mechanic and dealing with busses. You guys are about to build a shell on your truck, busses are built as cheap and as light as physically possible and they still add A TON of weight to the chassis. matter of fact every single one is at or exceeding its designed chassis weight DRY. unless you build your frame from aluminum and skin it with fiberglass its going to be a solid 3000LBS added to the back of the vehicle. honestly the dodge can handle that, but dont expect to haul anything and be remotely DOT compliant
i need to add a separate comment involving flex. cab and chassis bus manufactures "solved" this issue in a kinda genius manner and for me to describe it in a comment would be complicated but basically the body needs its own frame and it rests on the factory frame rails longitudinally on a 3/4" rubber isolator, if the frame flexes too much it doesnt effect the body because its not actually attached and the body holds its own rigidity... feel free to message me
you had to make it in such a way that the sides of the camper can slide out and when they do, the large rear wheel fenders follow, with out to the side. it's just a thought, thanks for everything you do, you're so cool when you think on what you struggle with when the camera is off. I want you to get over it. We can't do without you and your team, thank you all. You should make a hooded sweatshirt that says ( I also want an Oscar in my workshop) he is so super cool.
2003, after a half-century of make-do camping in lesser rigs, we built our ExpeditionVehicle. Our interior is 12x7 by 7h. We engineered our mass between the axles. This reduces hobby-horse bouncing and knocking parts on trees and unwitting by-standers.
Man congratulations on the cancer I just lost my dad to stage 4 he passed on the 3rd of this month And laid him to rest on February the 23rd so that stuff's no joke once again thank you guys for everything you do it may not seem like a whole lot to you but to some of us it helps a lot
For as long as you're making the bed, you probably need to extend the wheelbase for turning sake, and to prevent possible damage while turning in a tight spot. But, you do what you want.
I'm no engineer, but wouldn't it have made more sense/been stronger to run your 11 foot steel at the outer edge of the floor, then connect it via beams going perpendicular across the frame rails? Seems like its be much stronger that way.
When upfitting a truck, the general rule of thumb is 60% of the rear box/bed is supposed to be in front of the rear axle. The more weight behind it starts taking the weight of the front axle. I see a lot of white knuckles when driving this truck. Best of luck!
Instead of hard mounting it to the cab, use a spring loaded panel to seal it with a gasket. this would allow flex, all while preventing you from hard mounting it to the cab.
The UA-cam Channel, Everlanders, built something similar, you should check their older videos. Also, Everlander's Camper box has a pivot system in the back to allow the truck frame to flex, really good idea on their part, also maybe consider to use as mush aluminium as you can to save wheight.
EarthRoamer experiments with a massive overhang behind the rear axle. EarthRoamer also experiments with engineering a weld-on reinforcement work-around after their frames go 'pretzel'.
Oscar just knocking things out one thing at a time, you could relocate the spare and put a water tank there. hopefully it will help some with the balancing
There's something you could do in regards to attaching the camper to the cab. Look into semi truck pass throughs. It's an accordion like material that used to be placed between the cab and the sleeper of older semi trucks. Design specifically to flex. Because those truck cabs and sleepers used to be separate pieces.
Love the content. I would build the camper box separately to avoid stress cracking. And used the method they used in box trucks like uhaul. I drive truck alot lol and mlthe more things and solid mounted the rougher the ride
Research how semi sleepers mount to the the cab of the truck. They use a large flexible gasket that seals out water well and still allows a fair amount of flex. You are definitely going to want that giant camper box to be able to move separately from the cab.
Nice score on the drifter love you all. Hope you and the fam are doin well. Love the content. To be honest so hard to wait for the next release but when it's out it's awesome
You should use the rubber gasket that they use for seismic joints between the cab and camper, the camper should flex on the bed. Something like Emseal from Sikaflex would work great while keeping out water, noise and the cold, you can get widths from 1" to 10". Mechanically fasten it to the camper and compression to the cab.
chris, there are longer driveshafts available for the truck. if you get a longer driveshaft and just push the rest of the rear suspension components back, it’ll handle the weight of the camper and any trailers significantly better.
You need to do a three point mounting system and isolate the camper from the frame. There is a reason this and a passthrough are done on every single expedition vehicle. You're putting a ton of strain into keeping the frame stiff instead of letting it flex and move a little as designed.
Install Raid for Free ✅ IOS/ANDROID/PC: clcr.me/F23_BisforBuild and get a special starter pack with an Epic champion Chonoru 💥 Join a special Valentine’s Day-themed adventure ❤ raidlovequest.plarium.com ❤ with the Raid Love Quest to win some fantastic in-game and real life prizes 🎁
Promo codes:
✅ Use the Promo Code RAIDRONDA to get a bunch of helpful stuff. Available to ALL users: New and Old by February 28
✅ Use the Promo Code READY4RAID to get great pre-anniversary bonuses. Available for New users only by February 28
*Note that only 1 Promo code can be used within 24hours
I have a feeling this video is gonna have to be taken down and reedited since you left the 350z winner's phone number on the screen.
Not an expert but, I've heard that welding directly to the frame can cause weekpoints and can crack the frame. Saw a video about ram truck frames literally splitting in half where they welded aftermarket beds.
For your next giveaway build do a small car like a 1998 Honda Civic DX Hatchback 2D with Blueprint's 340-HP 3,6 Liter Four-Cylinder LS-Headed crate engine. I would love to see you guys built that.
Please Please Please make this giveaway available in Canada!
Okay car I want you guys to build in your flavor 1986 Arrow glass Monte Carlo except for we're going to do it with the Hemi under glass Style but we're going to use a Ferrari v-12 rear-mounted from a Testarossa under the glass
You should build the camper using Aluminium to save weight. You gonna be surprise how quickly you'll reach maximum payload before even having the camper fully loaded.
Especially on rams, right at the edge of the cab they’re super prone to bending the frame due to no bracing, ford puts thick ass plates in that area. Hopefully they do that. But who knows
@@KDlGGlooks like there’s enough hanging beyond the rear axle to counter balance it!😂
@@KDlGG You ain't going to bend a 3rd gen very easily.. The new 2019+ trucks have had some serious issues though. It's kind of funny to think any frame dodge made on the 3rd and 4th gens are stronger than their new, redesigned "5th" gen frames.
I would reach out the Kimbo, they are all aluminum. Might be a cool joint venture
I'm always surprised how much they build out of thick steel. It is easier to make sure things don't bend, and are safe, but I feel like a lot of their cars are heavier than they need to be. Colin Chapman would not approve.
I’m no engineer, but I think isolating the oem cab from the custom camper box is the way to go fellas.
It will fall apart otherwise.
That’s how the eom tray is built and the factory guys know what they’re doing generally.
Aluminum box would definitely save on weight, also from the trucking industry sometimes we use rubber "thresholds" that go between the sleeper and the driving area to allow flex and the option to not have a sleeper unit. Might be a good way to go from cab to the back of the truck in your case as well
Even better, build it with carbon fiber and advanced composites.
@@jaynecobb1
UA-cam has an example of a CF camper, something along the lines of "World's Lightest ExpeditionVehicle!".
Problem -- a light breeze punched it into the next zip-code.
True fact...
@@largemarge1603exactly, like just use aluminum bro 😂
Old minitruck walkthrough beds would use a rubber gasket between the cab and the box/camper shell to let everything flex. Yes, welding a bunch of steel to make the frame less flexy will help, but it might still flex enough that a rubber section between the cab and camper would be beneficial.
I used a rubber accordion style "gasket" for the walk thru on my S10. Ordered it from an RV shop
Its going to be interesting to see how this turns out, I do think itll be ok, but if not, ill be getting the rubber gaskets and going that route. This is just something i really want to try and see if we can pull it off. Its similar to the first time we started cutting cars up in weird ways. Its alot of real world testing to see how things react.
Yeah, it's a regular cab (1999 xtreme) with cab high fiberglass topper. It still wobbles/flexes even just shutting the doors hard. Didnt do anything to reinforce it, but no leaks! Both ends of the rubber just clipped on and added some rtv. Car custom shops were stupid expensive, but ordered this by the foot, it was just lil over $100 (5yrs or so ago)
@@BisforBuild Totally respect that! If it works, it works...if not...try again. Looking forward to the next ep! Well done guys.
He is going to need to use the accordion boot to connect it... It's how sleepers are attached to tractor cabs.... It's how I connect my bed to my cab on my 2010 taco...
Side note: hope you measured the garage door
Killer build! About your airbags, I would recommend running your rear airbags with a few pounds of air in them. It would keep it from creating negative pressure and collapsing while traveling. If and when this happens, it can pinch and put a wonderful split in your bag making it useless.
Hey Chris don’t forget to reinforce the front half of the frame under the cab to help with it not flexing on the rest of the frame!
You need to do a pivot system. It's what they use for Unimogs when adding a custom box in the back. Also you can extend the chassy 1meter to fit a bigger box. Aluminium for light weight. Like so Chris can see
Definitely keep the airbag’s working. It’ll feel way better when you’re driving, especially with an extra few thousand pounds.
I dont even have to watch the rest - BEST INTRO EVER!!!!!! Thats charlie work guys!
Yall should install another dualy axle on it too :D that would be dope and honestly it would probably help out with any potential tongue weight issues since the hitch is so much farther away from the rear axle. Food for thought :)
Is an insane six-by-six would make this even better
Put captain seats in the back so you can seat 4 and still walk between into the camper
Rather than rubber isolators, you could use can air-suspension like they do I'm Big Rigs, help mitigate flex a bit more.
Chris, might want to keep in mind people have to pay taxes on cars from the giveaway. While winning a GTR or Ferrari would be cool, that and maintenance costs might make it less attractive than a 370z or similar cost car.
Chris you should drop that floor frame down 600mm off the back of chassis as you'll gain not only interior height
But will also have less a step getting in and out back
I love when the giveaway calls are recorded, it's so freaking wholesome. For the next giveaway, how about a (decently used) Porsche Cayman track style build? Idk prices on them, but man. That would be cool to see on here
To efficiently increase torsional stiffness in the chassis it is best to use large dimension hollow sections as cross members. Tubes are best but rectangular will work too. The more the better.
Correct... and the solid rectangular bar is just ballast.
With that space under the bed, you should look into a generator like for a rv.
Also a mini split heat pump for the ac. We have one on our horse trailer and love it.
Put captain seats in the back so you can seat 4 and still walk between into the camper
Hey Chris, wouldn’t it make sense to also triangulate the extended frame for extra torsional rigidity?
Thats a good idea, we'll do that
@@BisforBuild 🤣🤣🤣
I vote for a second row of wheels if you’re going to tow anything heavier than a jet ski.
Triangulation as a minimum.
Cool build guys.
Remember when fitting out the interior, make everything multi purpose if you can.
Check out some factory campers for ideas.
Looking forward to the next episode 😎
@@BisforBuild look into Everlanders youtube channel, they build a system that allows the chassis to flex, keeping the camper safe
Do a body lift on the cab to help with the transition
For worrying about flex between the cabin and bed; what if you added a flexible accordion seal like you see on some busses and trains? That ways it’s sealed but can still flex a little if needed?
The next giveaway should be an Old Pickup truck. A 67-72 chevy in particular as it offers a lot of options for bolt on updates. In many cases Factory GM components from trucks as new as the 1990's just bolt on (brakes, power trains, lights and such) making for an easy quick project with lots of design potential. It would also be a great platform for the B is for Build design flair without getting too far into the weeds with making body panels. Combine this with a good tow hitch and you can call it the toy hauler. If you want to get a little crazy with the fabrication you can swap out the stock dashboard for one out of a 65/66 chevy which looks a little more aggressive and would be an interesting fabrication project to make fit especially with the addition of a touch panel radio or something. Finally these trucks have an Enormous following which would potentially expose your channel to a new audience.
I would love this!
Don’t underestimate the weight of everything. A 1 ton pickup with an aluminum sled deck with two sleds feels way heavier than you’d think. And this is going to be 3-4 times that weight with similar center of gravity
Best Part of this build update Chris was you announcing your Cancer Free!! Dats Awesome!
I would definitely consider a 2nd axle to help support the extra feet
I was thinking the same thing.
That or maybe extending the wheelbase if possible?
Lol, I went scrolling through the comments cause I knew someone would have the same idea. Tots would do a second axle if you are planning on towing
Too late now but I would have cut the frame ahead of the axel then exrended it back and filled in the frame gap.
its crazy how much this channel has grown/existed, I remember when you did that fj build, heck I remember coming home from school to check out the next BRZ update.
Loving how this is coming together. This is the perfect build for touring the country for racing with race car in tow. Can't wait for the next episode!
God bless you man!!!! Great news about your health this news make me very happy to hear 🙏🏽
congrats to the winner! Next contest, i'd love to see an old school muscle car, but with a resto-mod feel to it. Nice A body classic muscle, but with modern stuff....much like Chip Foose style would be totally awesome!
Should take a look at bi-articulated buses. That acordian type piece in the middle might be the perfect way to attach these 2 halves together but still allow flew between the camper and cab.
A cool idea would be to do a giveaway of say a (e.g. 20k) budget and you guys build the winners car/truck of choice, then you get a series of content, and the winner gets their dream project build done for them or perhaps they could come and help if they were mechanically minded. Just a random thought!
Love to see you guys either build or giveaway a 3rd gen RX7!
for an overlanding build, id almost do an EXO cage on the cab end that is part of the rear floor frame as well, so that it is nice and rigid. plus, gives so much more room in the cab
As a homeless man let me say wow. What your building is amazing. One day I hope I can build me something like this. Cant wait for the next episode.
Was unsure at first how interesting this project was going to be, but now I can’t wait to watch and follow along! This thing is going to be nasty when it’s finished!
Next giveaway should be an Audi or a Lexus. Or even a 90s Honda Accord/civic/integra. The aftermarket parts for those are everywhere that could be a good build done fast and probably fairly cheap
Ruben at DMW in Australia makes the best rigs. I'd check out how they do the back of the cab may help with some ideas luv this build already
Am David an Electrical/Clinical Engineer from Ghana west African, I have been watching your videos for some time now and I must confess your living my dream life. I admire you and wish we meet one day so that we would talk for me to get more inspiration from you. Be blessed.
This is finally starting to take shape and is looking good. Yeah, we definitely got hit with some serious snow, glad you were able to make it out safely.
Semi-trucks with sleepers use a Large flexible gasket to seal between the Cab and sleeper unit, this would be ideal
The camper is starting to work out nicely, but more importantly congrats on the continued clean bill of health, Chris!!! 🤟
Things I learned doing my build. Use a mini split ac. Vitrifrigo refrigerator. Honda 2200 with extended run cap. Diesel heater. Marine water heater that can be heated with the truck coolant or 110.
You all are awesome! This build is fantastic and I'm glad you're cancer free!
Cancer negative is a win!
I’ll watch these guys build a hotdog mobile, all of it is entertaining.
Now that you've extended the rear frame, I think you're going to need a 3rd axle just to support the whole camper thing, also to keep if it from tumbling backwards now that it'll surely be rear-heavy.
Third axle, or even sliding the existing axle back would also help with departure angle if they intend to really bring this thing “off-road”. I’d think even a moderate incline would have the tow hitch scraping as it is right now
its not that much weight. I know it all looks heavy on camera but its really not a concern.
@@BisforBuild There's also a 1100-1200lb engine practically over the front axle, and these trucks have damn near 5000lbs on the front two tires, so adding that extra weight cantilevered that far behind the rear axle will be just fine.
You can always add a bigger and heavier engine 😁
@@BisforBuild It's all well and good. We'll see when the whole cabin is built if it'll need it or not. Also reading from some of the comments, you'll probably gonna need additional bracing underneath to further strengthen the stock truck chassis.
The premier offroad all in one camper builder does a three point frame mount to allow for frame flex. Two by the cab and on in the rear.
That would make too much sense
Fun build! I would check out suspension upgrades to increase total payload - you may want to look into how much weight the system can normally support and what options there may be for adjustable heavier duty suspensiom for the rear.
They had air suspension, and decided that they didn't need it. Even with that, the axle (and wheels, and tires) still has limited capacity.
This channel was my first subscribe, still my favorite by far, hope u guys get a good shop soon, that's a crazy ordeal for sure
Good to hear your still cancer free, you and the crew make some good builds and can’t wait to see how this one turns out p.s. going have to get some mech to try and win next giveaway
Excited for a new season of ‘It’s Always Raining in Oregon-ia’!
Can’t wait to see how this turns out. Nice to see an off-road build on this channel.
We are super happy you’re well Chris = thank you god for chris and crew
I have a feeling this video is gonna have to be taken down and reedited since you left the 350z winner's phone number on the screen.
They REALLY need to see this 😂😂😂
Well that sucks.
A cool trend of overlanding vehicles hitting the mainstream modding car culture these days. Pretty cool. I just bought a Cayenne Turbo S 955 to overland in luxury.
MIGHT WANNA BLUR THE GUYS PHONE NUMBER
IN RESPONSE TO YOUR FUTURE CAR GIVEAWAYS...I think it's better if you give away cars you build and modify a little rather than exotic and expensive supercars...yes supercars would be cool but I think the majority of simple subscribers as myself wouldn't be able to afford the upkeep and maintenance of supercars..plus we would enjoy and have more fun with a daily driver or one you can take to the track every weekend!!! Just my opinion Chris....and congrats on your positive medical news buddy!
And what a pleasure it would be to win an official B is for Build car all the way in the Caribbean...Trinidad and Tobago 🇹🇹 🇹🇹 🇹🇹
Horrible idea, the cab and the box as one.
Don't forget to weld sleeves in the holes that you drilled out for the camper floor for added strength. If you don't, the holes will get bigger and eventually rip out from the bolts and the rear camper will be sliding only relying on the welds that are on the cab.
This comment needs to be higher. You have to do this same thing for FIA seat rails and thats just for the weight of your body, this is hundreds of pounds of steel. Definitely needs to add sleeves to keep those mounting points safe from stretching over time.
@@kylebutleracoustic I believe that there is too much overhang from the rear suspension. Vehicle turning will hit parked cars or rubbishbins. I would of grinded off the weld before the rear suspension and added the framework there.
this is my least favorite B is For build project. Being a transit mechanic and dealing with busses. You guys are about to build a shell on your truck, busses are built as cheap and as light as physically possible and they still add A TON of weight to the chassis. matter of fact every single one is at or exceeding its designed chassis weight DRY. unless you build your frame from aluminum and skin it with fiberglass its going to be a solid 3000LBS added to the back of the vehicle. honestly the dodge can handle that, but dont expect to haul anything and be remotely DOT compliant
So fully loaded bus chassis is banana?
i need to add a separate comment involving flex. cab and chassis bus manufactures "solved" this issue in a kinda genius manner and for me to describe it in a comment would be complicated but basically the body needs its own frame and it rests on the factory frame rails longitudinally on a 3/4" rubber isolator, if the frame flexes too much it doesnt effect the body because its not actually attached and the body holds its own rigidity... feel free to message me
@@jwalster9412 b is for banana
Interesting question. I wonder if they have any wieght considerations
@@tacedaddy After seeing more of the vid, I actually agree, the way he is attaching it to the cab...
you had to make it in such a way that the sides of the camper can slide out and when they do, the large rear wheel fenders follow, with out to the side. it's just a thought, thanks for everything you do, you're so cool when you think on what you struggle with when the camera is off. I want you to get over it. We can't do without you and your team, thank you all. You should make a hooded sweatshirt that says ( I also want an Oscar in my workshop) he is so super cool.
Love the intro! It's always sunny is such a good show.
Raise a front tire 12 to 18 inches of the ground and watch how your frame flexes. Just a single time to represent going over a curb or rock.
moooooo yacht stufffff chris. :D can't wait for this land yacht to be completed.
2003, after a half-century of make-do camping in lesser rigs, we built our ExpeditionVehicle.
Our interior is 12x7 by 7h.
We engineered our mass between the axles.
This reduces hobby-horse bouncing and knocking parts on trees and unwitting by-standers.
Drill bigger holes so your bolt heads can live inside the square floor frame tubes and give you nice flat surface to floor onto!!
God bless you that you are still cancer free and able to do what you love to do.
I myself is 2 years cancer free.
Man congratulations on the cancer I just lost my dad to stage 4 he passed on the 3rd of this month
And laid him to rest on February the 23rd so that stuff's no joke once again thank you guys for everything you do it may not seem like a whole lot to you but to some of us it helps a lot
love this build! all I will say is Aluminium is your friend and use it as much as possible. if you keep using steel she will be a heavy one!
For as long as you're making the bed, you probably need to extend the wheelbase for turning sake, and to prevent possible damage while turning in a tight spot. But, you do what you want.
This is so random, they are so unprofessional, they do foolish and dangerous stuff... I want more 🤩
Congrats on the scans coming back clean!! Thats awesome news.
I'm no engineer, but wouldn't it have made more sense/been stronger to run your 11 foot steel at the outer edge of the floor, then connect it via beams going perpendicular across the frame rails? Seems like its be much stronger that way.
Good news for you Chris & your family. Really happy to hear😀
I literally haven't smiled for quite a while so thanks for the give away, it did made me smile.
When upfitting a truck, the general rule of thumb is 60% of the rear box/bed is supposed to be in front of the rear axle. The more weight behind it starts taking the weight of the front axle. I see a lot of white knuckles when driving this truck. Best of luck!
I hope you don't mind I said a prayer for you I'm happy to hear the good news love the truck
Instead of hard mounting it to the cab, use a spring loaded panel to seal it with a gasket. this would allow flex, all while preventing you from hard mounting it to the cab.
The UA-cam Channel, Everlanders, built something similar, you should check their older videos. Also, Everlander's Camper box has a pivot system in the back to allow the truck frame to flex, really good idea on their part, also maybe consider to use as mush aluminium as you can to save wheight.
EarthRoamer experiments with a massive overhang behind the rear axle.
EarthRoamer also experiments with engineering a weld-on reinforcement work-around after their frames go 'pretzel'.
Put a 4 link and coilovers in the rear to allow the suspension to flex instead of the frame
give way suggestion: SC300 wider body B is for build style.
Oscar just knocking things out one thing at a time, you could relocate the spare and put a water tank there. hopefully it will help some with the balancing
There's something you could do in regards to attaching the camper to the cab. Look into semi truck pass throughs. It's an accordion like material that used to be placed between the cab and the sleeper of older semi trucks. Design specifically to flex. Because those truck cabs and sleepers used to be separate pieces.
Chris, please make more merch! I miss you doing more styles and designs.
You might want to sleeve the rails that you are bolting it to the frame with.
Stoked for this build Chris, Oscar and Kyle!!!
Love the content. I would build the camper box separately to avoid stress cracking. And used the method they used in box trucks like uhaul. I drive truck alot lol and mlthe more things and solid mounted the rougher the ride
Research how semi sleepers mount to the the cab of the truck. They use a large flexible gasket that seals out water well and still allows a fair amount of flex. You are definitely going to want that giant camper box to be able to move separately from the cab.
Watching the frame rail extensions slide in was very satisfying. Oh, and congrats on no cancer. That’s pretty neat too 👍🏼👍🏼
Nice score on the drifter love you all. Hope you and the fam are doin well. Love the content. To be honest so hard to wait for the next release but when it's out it's awesome
You should use the rubber gasket that they use for seismic joints between the cab and camper, the camper should flex on the bed. Something like Emseal from Sikaflex would work great while keeping out water, noise and the cold, you can get widths from 1" to 10". Mechanically fasten it to the camper and compression to the cab.
What a great way to kick off my Friday. Shop time, new BifB and a cold beverage. LOVE IT.
chris, there are longer driveshafts available for the truck. if you get a longer driveshaft and just push the rest of the rear suspension components back, it’ll handle the weight of the camper and any trailers significantly better.
Crush tubes would be a welcome addition to the frame mounts.
Time for a joint and this awesomely long awaited video
👋👁👃👁👍
🔥
You guys are building a DIY earth roamer! This is probably my favorite build to date!
You need to do a three point mounting system and isolate the camper from the frame. There is a reason this and a passthrough are done on every single expedition vehicle. You're putting a ton of strain into keeping the frame stiff instead of letting it flex and move a little as designed.
I would add a rubber diafram in-between the cab and camper. No matter how stiff u make it, it will still flex.
Don't forget you can lower tire pressure or use smaller rims for grounded clearance. Making more room for the top to get out.