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Nigel the 1977 MGB Clutch slave and Throw out bearing
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- Опубліковано 2 сер 2024
- While the engine is out, it is the best time to replace the throw out bearing. This video also shows how to replace the hydraulic Clutch Slave cylinder on a 1977 MGB roadster.
I also fabricated a replacement Clevis pin, as the old one was very worn.
Release bearing:
mossmotors.com/release-bearin...
Clutch Slave Cylinder:
mossmotors.com/clutch-slave-c...
chapters;
0:00 Intro
0:31 removal of the Clutch Slave cylinder
4:55 Fabrication of Clevis pin
6:35 Throw out bearing
10:15 Install Clutch Slave cylinder
#mgb #classiccars #automechanic #restomod #restomods #britishcars #convertable
I've been trying to find out which way the clutch fork goes.
Your video showed me exactly what I wanted to know.
Cheers
Those hose end fittings use British Whitworth sizes. I’ve taken old SAE wrenches and filed them open(about .020” to get a 7/16” to fit). Love your videos, especially the fabrication of small parts.
Replacement of the hose is extremely important
Thanks for the video. I don't know how old was the old roller bearing but the thickness of the graphite surface is very similar to the new one. Those old parts were made to last. Not sure about the recent ones.
Give yourself some credit. Your driving habits greatly affect the life span of the throwout bearing. For instance, slipping the clutch on a hill rather than using the brake. Or using the clutch to slow the car will increase the wear dramatically
@@AlexPlatacis Absolutely agree with you. I always handle my MGB clutch with the greatest care.
Being that the hose may be 44 years old I always replace the hose, the slave cylinder push rod pen with a clevis pen, clutch fork bolt and bushing. As a bonus I also replace the in-put oil seal and Spigot bushing that slides into the end of the crankshaft on the transmission. Better to be safe than sorry.
Yea that hose looks a little rotten. Looks like some front end bushing are also look a little rotten.
Should add tiny bit of grease into the bearing holder so won’t maybe squeak
Yeah, I learned the hard way on the front input seal on the transmission…….
I must say u hv great mg knowledge. However, ur engine is out, but ur gonna leave that cracked, dry-rot rubber clutch line in? Well the silver lining is you'll be an expert at bleeding.
But seriously thnx for the great vid showing the throw out bearing details. Great stuff.
My B is sidelined as of last weekend due to a clutch that is not releasing. I can shift with engine off, but not with it running. Yippee!!
Well, thanks. This is actually my first MGB. I am just sharing my solutions.
Incidentally, I did eventually replace all the rubber lines. Here is the video showing how I managed the task.
ua-cam.com/video/av78Tryb77M/v-deo.html
Wow those pivot clips are very loose compared to mine. I had to file down my clutch fork some just to get the clips in.
There are a lot of off brand parts floating around. I imagine it is possible either the clips, or the fork(or both), could be slightly off spec. Those clips dont do much. They are mostly just for keeping the bearing in place. The fork does the work
For the $10 that it'll cost you, change the hose. If it looks that bad on the outside, it can be really bad inside. The clevis pin is about $1.50.
Yeah...
On the clevis pin thing...
I actually enjoy the fabrication. So to share that task, for me it was just fun.
On the hose, the plan is to replace all rubber, and all wiring. I just did not have the replacement at the time, and chose to reinstall the old one to keep contamination to a minimum. I am cheap on shipping cost though. And tend to queue up a group of parts. So those will be in a future shippment.
Thanks for watching and for your valid input. I am certain it helps others
I would have replaced that hose, and also mounted a new copper washer. Or at least anneal the copper washer in case you decide to reuse the old one.
me too.
I did get a new on in a few weeks later.
Good catch though. thanks for the contribution.