It says right in the manual and on many other videos, NOT TO HAVE ANY METAL NEAR THE QUAD WHEN DOING A COMPASS CALIBRATE. You're ring, your watch, change in your pocket, even the transmitter, nothing within 10 feet when calibrating.
I'm pretty aware of what causes calibration errors and what doesn't :-) This is perfectly good advice, but you need to treat it with the caution it deserves. Most rings are non ferrous, most watches and phones are also non magnetic and have zero affect, you need a transmitter to fly (in fact there are 2 in the quad (actually 3 in the one in this video). The reason you should always test for TB is because, however careful you are, it can catch you unaware. I think the main lesson is always be ready to fly without GPS. Ultimately that removes the issue completely :-)
Silver and gold maybe, I was thinking more about the copper and batteries in watches and phones and the Transmitter. Copper in itself isn't ferrous, but wrap it in loops and run a little juice through it...
Similar to a recent experience of mine, it happened after a prolonged compass 1 calibration, luckily I landed it and performed a forced manual gyro re-calibration via the controller sticks. worked perfectly after that.
Yes I fly without compass calibration too. It doesn't mean that you still won't get TB. Calibration is only accurate the place you do it! It is really important with the no cal option, to calibrate somewhere clear of any magnetic anomalies. This should give you a good calibration offsets which will work just about anywhere (although you'll obviously get issues if you fly over or near large iron objects :-) )
I lost mine yesterday for this very reason. It was violent and suddenly shot up like a rocket when the wind took hold of it never to be seen again. The RTH function didn't work and I couldn't regain control of it
I could probably quote directly from memory for most versions of the instruction manual. Doing so will not prevent TBE, neither will doing compass calibrations in any particular way. The important thing is to meticulously check that the compass has a useful calibration. Most of this is now of course irrelevant, with saved calibrations and no forced calibration on power up.
i have a problemwith the fpv on my advanced version luky to get 200m out of it very fuzzy have tried the antena both ways incase it was built backwards i have tried rebinding have tried difrent antena have took drone to bits and controler to check sma conection and continuity any idears on what i could try next would be very greatfull for help
I've had this happen a couple of times with my H502c, just wondered if you had tried turning off the gps during this? Mine is fixed on, so not able to test, or is it just down to compass calibration? Cheers Phil
Good video, this solves my doubts about the control on the h501a wifi, I see that you can see the image in the control, can you see the flight information and battery too? ... thanks
Great explanation how a heading anomaly could effect and cause TBE. I think the wind would make it worse(processor reacting to wind displacement as well as bogus head input). Your increase in alt seemed to confirm that. So that is a 501A and you are flying it with the standard FPV controller. Does it actually have a WIFI transceiver onboard? Or does it connect thru the wifi "booster" which I am suspecting interfaces the android or IOS APP to the standard 2.4/5,8Ghz control/FPV scheme? IE: Basically a 501S with an X on it(and different firmware) and an interface box to use the app. Since it can still use the FPV controller it seems odd that it would use 2.4/5.8 AND WIFI...
I haven't actually explained why TBE occurs! I'll rectify that shortly with an explanatory video. It is however all related to compass error and PID settings. The 501A has a wifi TRX and 2.4GHZ standard TRX. You can fly it with either Hubsan controller or a smart device. You can add an additional "booster" (HT005) if you need better wifi range.
You did a pretty good job of it in a text response to this video about 5 days ago. It was that response that I was refering to, I just posted in the wrong location:) Thanks for the WIFI clarification, I want to get a 501 but think I might wait till the Alpha is available as the app functionality looks pretty nice on my Ipad
Re calibration... turn on controler and drone... if calibration skips then hold left stick to left while moving right stick left to right...keep rocking right stick left right left right.. keep doing until you have to re calibration. Once you do this then no toilet bowl
Two questions; how windy was it during this flight? It sounds very windy and the quad did great. Secondly, what steps did you take to re-calibrate without completely powering down and starting over?
About 10mph wind at ground level with gusts. I was flying low to keep in the shelter of the trees and out of the wind. Not a day for going above 15 meters...
About 10 mph, gusts to about 15. Probably sounds worse than it was. I was flying low to keep out of the wind and in the shelter of the trees. It would have been very windy up at 100m!
TBE just happens sometimes, could also be that rock you put it on with the metal plate, always a good thing too hover for a minute after take off, if TBE appears just land a recalibrate, no big deal. My Blade 350 QX also will do it if not flying for a long time, so its not just the Hubsan Nice flying BTW
is the sign on that post made of metal? if so do calibration well away from it viewing other posts about calibration say to remove watches,phones,keys out of the way as they interfere with calibrations
Sir what is the best firmware for you is it the v1.17? Is it really 20mins of flight time? becausw others are saying it is lucky to get 10mins. where did you buy your drone?
Most firmware works fine. It's hard to say if there is a best one. Here's a description: qeltakeoff.blogspot.co.uk/p/h501s-firmware-revisions.html Yes 20 minutes (or more) is achievable. I tend to limit myself to 15 minutes. The quad is for sale soon
Good advice. I noticed your screen reflects badly like they all do. . You can get a non reflective screen from Bro-Protect for about $6. Two protectors to the pack. easy to install and helps a lot. Google the name for ordering info.
Thankyou. I only started this channel to store personal stuff that I can get easy access to from anywhere. It was never my intention to have many subscribers. Saying that, I've got a video coming along soon which will hopefully be of interest to many :-)
first of all you shouldnt combine golden and black props cause they have different shapes and even the material isnt the same. but yeah....in most of the cases its just a faulty calibration
LOL! The props are identical, other than colour, and have all been precision balanced.This TBE has nothing to do with colours, material or prop shape :-)
That drone looks like it's a beast, in strong wind. Nice!
Thank you for your video. It proves, what goes in (good compass cal) determines what you will get out.
It says right in the manual and on many other videos, NOT TO HAVE ANY METAL NEAR THE QUAD WHEN DOING A COMPASS CALIBRATE. You're ring, your watch, change in your pocket, even the transmitter, nothing within 10 feet when calibrating.
I'm pretty aware of what causes calibration errors and what doesn't :-)
This is perfectly good advice, but you need to treat it with the caution it deserves. Most rings are non ferrous, most watches and phones are also non magnetic and have zero affect, you need a transmitter to fly (in fact there are 2 in the quad (actually 3 in the one in this video).
The reason you should always test for TB is because, however careful you are, it can catch you unaware.
I think the main lesson is always be ready to fly without GPS. Ultimately that removes the issue completely :-)
Silver and gold maybe, I was thinking more about the copper and batteries in watches and phones and the Transmitter. Copper in itself isn't ferrous, but wrap it in loops and run a little juice through it...
Thank you, I feel a lot better about the 501s I'm patiently waiting to receive.
Thanks for the Tips. I have not had it happen yet but I am sure it will and when it does I now know what to do. Thanks
Similar to a recent experience of mine, it happened after a prolonged compass 1 calibration, luckily I landed it and performed a forced manual gyro re-calibration via the controller sticks. worked perfectly after that.
I have the lastest firmware and you don't have to calibrate it just place it on level ground. It flys well for 10 mins then it toilet bowls really bad
Yes I fly without compass calibration too. It doesn't mean that you still won't get TB. Calibration is only accurate the place you do it!
It is really important with the no cal option, to calibrate somewhere clear of any magnetic anomalies. This should give you a good calibration offsets which will work just about anywhere (although you'll obviously get issues if you fly over or near large iron objects :-) )
I lost mine yesterday for this very reason. It was violent and suddenly shot up like a rocket when the wind took hold of it never to be seen again. The RTH function didn't work and I couldn't regain control of it
Bill, Im thinking about purchasing the Hubsan 501s Did you ever find your run away?? Ken
No.Never did. I now have a phantom 3. which is a pleasure to fly
I've only had the toilet bowl effect once and that was cos I flying near a radio communication tower.
Nice demo of how to do a proper compass calibration. I did a lazy CC on my h502s and it almost got away from me. Thanks.
Have you even looked in the instruction book?
Look at the part about calibrations.
It shows how to do this.
I could probably quote directly from memory for most versions of the instruction manual.
Doing so will not prevent TBE, neither will doing compass calibrations in any particular way.
The important thing is to meticulously check that the compass has a useful calibration.
Most of this is now of course irrelevant, with saved calibrations and no forced calibration on power up.
i have a problemwith the fpv on my advanced version luky to get 200m out of it very fuzzy have tried the antena both ways incase it was built backwards i have tried rebinding have tried difrent antena have took drone to bits and controler to check sma conection and continuity any idears on what i could try next would be very greatfull for help
I've had this happen a couple of times with my H502c, just wondered if you had tried turning off the gps during this? Mine is fixed on, so not able to test, or is it just down to compass calibration?
Cheers Phil
Nice one. My GPS was turned off, couldn't work out why drone was drifting 😂
@@aburaeese Glad my comment from 6 years ago was helpful? 😊👍
Good video, this solves my doubts about the control on the h501a wifi, I see that you can see the image in the control, can you see the flight information and battery too? ... thanks
You get everything you'd get on a 501S.
does the h501a bind with h501s standard controller?
Yes.
Great explanation how a heading anomaly could effect and cause TBE. I think the wind would make it worse(processor reacting to wind displacement as well as bogus head input). Your increase in alt seemed to confirm that. So that is a 501A and you are flying it with the standard FPV controller. Does it actually have a WIFI transceiver onboard? Or does it connect thru the wifi "booster" which I am suspecting interfaces the android or IOS APP to the standard 2.4/5,8Ghz control/FPV scheme? IE: Basically a 501S with an X on it(and different firmware) and an interface box to use the app. Since it can still use the FPV controller it seems odd that it would use 2.4/5.8 AND WIFI...
I haven't actually explained why TBE occurs!
I'll rectify that shortly with an explanatory video.
It is however all related to compass error and PID settings.
The 501A has a wifi TRX and 2.4GHZ standard TRX. You can fly it with either Hubsan controller or a smart device.
You can add an additional "booster" (HT005) if you need better wifi range.
You did a pretty good job of it in a text response to this video about 5 days ago. It was that response that I was refering to, I just posted in the wrong location:) Thanks for the WIFI clarification, I want to get a 501 but think I might wait till the Alpha is available as the app functionality looks pretty nice on my Ipad
Re calibration... turn on controler and drone... if calibration skips then hold left stick to left while moving right stick left to right...keep rocking right stick left right left right.. keep doing until you have to re calibration. Once you do this then no toilet bowl
Two questions; how windy was it during this flight? It sounds very windy and the quad did great. Secondly, what steps did you take to re-calibrate without completely powering down and starting over?
About 10mph wind at ground level with gusts. I was flying low to keep in the shelter of the trees and out of the wind. Not a day for going above 15 meters...
The weather wasn't a factor, but I'm just curious as to what you think the wind speed was that day? Thanks!
About 10 mph, gusts to about 15.
Probably sounds worse than it was. I was flying low to keep out of the wind and in the shelter of the trees.
It would have been very windy up at 100m!
Everyone flying RC needs an anemometer. You can order from Amazon for about $18 Never have to guess wind speed again.
TBE just happens sometimes, could also be that rock you put it on with the metal plate, always a good thing too hover for a minute after take off, if TBE appears just land a recalibrate, no big deal. My Blade 350 QX also will do it if not flying for a long time, so its not just the Hubsan Nice flying BTW
hi ruudy! xD
What is the stone in the middle of that field for??
It's to mark the area as a Queen Elizabeth Fields In Trust
www.fieldsintrust.org/
is the sign on that post made of metal?
if so do calibration well away from it
viewing other posts about calibration say to remove watches,phones,keys out of the way
as they interfere with calibrations
Sir what is the best firmware for you is it the v1.17?
Is it really 20mins of flight time? becausw others are saying it is lucky to get 10mins.
where did you buy your drone?
Most firmware works fine. It's hard to say if there is a best one. Here's a description:
qeltakeoff.blogspot.co.uk/p/h501s-firmware-revisions.html
Yes 20 minutes (or more) is achievable. I tend to limit myself to 15 minutes.
The quad is for sale soon
randoneur where did you bought yours?
Also your propellers might need balanced..
Great Thanks.
good fly Sir!
Did you change the LED"s?
Michael Caliri
I think its the 501a which is why it has blue lights
This is a 501A. The LEDS are standard (Blue/Red) for that model.
OH OK
Thank you - worked for me.
Good advice. I noticed your screen reflects badly like they all do. . You can get a non reflective screen from Bro-Protect for about $6. Two protectors to the pack. easy to install and helps a lot. Google the name for ordering info.
i just geo one of this , and is an awesome drone. at momento not having this isues,, fingers cross
I believe im you're 700th sub
Thankyou. I only started this channel to store personal stuff that I can get easy access to from anywhere. It was never my intention to have many subscribers.
Saying that, I've got a video coming along soon which will hopefully be of interest to many :-)
first of all you shouldnt combine golden and black props cause they have different shapes and even the material isnt the same.
but yeah....in most of the cases its just a faulty calibration
LOL!
The props are identical, other than colour, and have all been precision balanced.This TBE has nothing to do with colours, material or prop shape :-)
Trash that thing and get a bugs 2 se