Thanks Tim, I've been looking for a video like this for a week. UA-cam finally realized what I was looking for and put this in my feed. I'm converting a couple of planes. Quite a bit bigger than what you've shown here, but I appreciate getting the ideas and the how to's. I already have the magnets. Now it's time to cut open the plane. 😱
Wayne: Glad it was helpful! The key to a snug hatch is glue/attach the magnet to the door. On the fuselage side, where the hatch will close, find a flat head screw that is attracted to the rare earth magnet. The wonderful thing is you can adjust (turn) the screw to get it at just the correct height for a firm screw to magnet connection. Tim
Thanks Tim for these basics. In these days electric planes need much bigger hatchs than the nitro planes. Electric planes are much easier than nitro planes to deal with. Tim thanks 😊, may God bless you with health.
Completely unrelated to this video but i watch all you’re vids and I’d really like to know where I can get the micro sized servos,receiver,batteries and motors for my park flyer models could you please make a video on the electronic themselves installation where to buy and various options for smaller aircraft? Dig you’re channel , keep em coming!
Tim: Appreciate your feedback. Ref where to buy the micro electronics, please see my video on this matter: ParkZone RC micro electronics, where to buy: ua-cam.com/video/Erxv9bqzZDw/v-deo.html Tim
I went thru a phase, where I always worried about the size of the hatch, the battery, and the battery box. Then I would get a buy on a different brand of battery, and it would barely fit, or not fit. Now, within reason, I just make the box and hatch as large as I possibly can. And shim the battery to where I want it, with loosely fitting blocks of foam, to still allow airflow. Now, different size/brand batteries always fit, and I don't break out in cold sweats when it's time to build the battery box/hatch.
Hatches are always an afterthought for me, and I regret it every time I fly...clumsy rubber bands or tape. Nice idea to use a thumbtack for the steel to engage the magnet. What's the model at the end? Looks like a real floater.
@@TimMcKay56 I'm sorry, that's not it, but I somehow missed that you had titled the plane I was interested in - the Blackburn Monoplane. Heading over to ua-cam.com/video/orzjftMDrRs/v-deo.html to check it out...looks so nice!
I have two very similar old school nitro .46 size high wing balsa airplanes I would like to convert from glow to e-power.... Both of these models are balsa kits and are Monokote covered and neither currently has any access hatch , as the fuel tank design is installation and removal through the wing mounting area. My questions are; What exactly is the best way to cut the hatch opening for the ESC and quick battery mounting and replacement at the field. Should I cut from the top of the fuselage down, or cut along the sides of the fuselage near the top ? Should the cut extend into the windshield area or just the flat top of the fuselage? Should I use hinges, latching devises , screws or magnets for the hatch ? thanks much
Gary: There really is not set way to install a hatch for your batteries. I have installed a hatch on the top (Bronco), side (Live Wire Champ) and bottom (Speedy Bee). It just depends on the model, I guess. Usually, I thing a hatch on the side of the fuselage looks about right. The hatch needs to be large enough to easily fit the battery in and out between flights. Ensure the hatch hinge is to the FRONT of the planes, so it a latch fails the airstream will keep the door shut. A rare earth magnet (Amazon.com) in the hatch door, with the magnet connecting to a metal screw in the fuselage, works good for a hatch. I did this with my first Bronco video. Tim
I need to look into those metal latches you showed. I don't care for those white plastic ones you showed. The handle can slide back on the metal pin, leaving the hatch permanently latched shut. I may be guilty of using it on to large of a model, with a snug fitting battery, in too small of a box.
Tim, thank you for sharing your great depth of experience with us! Howard
Howard: No worries! Tim
Thanks Tim, I've been looking for a video like this for a week. UA-cam finally realized what I was looking for and put this in my feed. I'm converting a couple of planes. Quite a bit bigger than what you've shown here, but I appreciate getting the ideas and the how to's. I already have the magnets. Now it's time to cut open the plane. 😱
Wayne: Glad it was helpful! The key to a snug hatch is glue/attach the magnet to the door. On the fuselage side, where the hatch will close, find a flat head screw that is attracted to the rare earth magnet. The wonderful thing is you can adjust (turn) the screw to get it at just the correct height for a firm screw to magnet connection. Tim
Thank you Mr Tim for this information, it is nice to clear doubt of inserting battery in canopy.
Kanhaiya: Glad it was helpful! Tim
Another great video, thanks for sharing with us.
Danny: Thanks for watching! Tim
Thanks Tim for these basics. In these days electric planes need much bigger hatchs than the nitro planes. Electric planes are much easier than nitro planes to deal with. Tim thanks 😊, may God bless you with health.
Muzaffar: Good luck with your future builds! Tim
Completely unrelated to this video but i watch all you’re vids and I’d really like to know where I can get the micro sized servos,receiver,batteries and motors for my park flyer models could you please make a video on the electronic themselves installation where to buy and various options for smaller aircraft? Dig you’re channel , keep em coming!
Tim: Appreciate your feedback. Ref where to buy the micro electronics, please see my video on this matter: ParkZone RC micro electronics, where to buy:
ua-cam.com/video/Erxv9bqzZDw/v-deo.html
Tim
I went thru a phase, where I always worried about the size of the hatch, the battery, and the battery box. Then I would get a buy on a different brand of battery, and it would barely fit, or not fit. Now, within reason, I just make the box and hatch as large as I possibly can. And shim the battery to where I want it, with loosely fitting blocks of foam, to still allow airflow. Now, different size/brand batteries always fit, and I don't break out in cold sweats when it's time to build the battery box/hatch.
David: Fully agree. Also, some velcro on the battery and the hatch bottom helps out a lot. Tim
Nice!
Thank you! Cheers!
Hatches are always an afterthought for me, and I regret it every time I fly...clumsy rubber bands or tape. Nice idea to use a thumbtack for the steel to engage the magnet.
What's the model at the end? Looks like a real floater.
Polylight: Model at the end is the "Foam RC Backyard Flyer for Newbies." ua-cam.com/video/EbSDGOMbLB0/v-deo.html
Plans included in the video. Tim
@@TimMcKay56 I'm sorry, that's not it, but I somehow missed that you had titled the plane I was interested in - the Blackburn Monoplane. Heading over to ua-cam.com/video/orzjftMDrRs/v-deo.html to check it out...looks so nice!
I have two very similar old school nitro .46 size high wing balsa airplanes I would like to convert from glow to e-power....
Both of these models are balsa kits and are Monokote covered and neither currently has any access hatch , as the fuel tank design is installation and removal through the wing mounting area.
My questions are;
What exactly is the best way to cut the hatch opening for the ESC and quick battery mounting and replacement at the field.
Should I cut from the top of the fuselage down, or cut along the sides of the fuselage near the top ?
Should the cut extend into the windshield area or just the flat top of the fuselage?
Should I use hinges, latching devises , screws or magnets for the hatch ?
thanks much
Gary: There really is not set way to install a hatch for your batteries. I have installed a hatch on the top (Bronco), side (Live Wire Champ) and bottom (Speedy Bee). It just depends on the model, I guess. Usually, I thing a hatch on the side of the fuselage looks about right. The hatch needs to be large enough to easily fit the battery in and out between flights. Ensure the hatch hinge is to the FRONT of the planes, so it a latch fails the airstream will keep the door shut. A rare earth magnet (Amazon.com) in the hatch door, with the magnet connecting to a metal screw in the fuselage, works good for a hatch. I did this with my first Bronco video. Tim
Muito bom.
👍👍👍🇧🇷🇧🇷🇧🇷 Abraço.
AF: Thanks! Tim
Where do you get those spring loaded hatch latch ?
TG: I found them on Amazon. Tim
👍
GG: Thanks! Tim
I need to look into those metal latches you showed. I don't care for those white plastic ones you showed. The handle can slide back on the metal pin, leaving the hatch permanently latched shut. I may be guilty of using it on to large of a model, with a snug fitting battery, in too small of a box.
David: Agree, I think the metal latches will work out a bit better. Tim