This should be close to the fuel tank. All that fuel is running back into the tank from the engine that’s why it has to crank so long to pressurize all that line with fuel. Stick it on the outgoing line by the tank and all that distance will stay pressurized and you car should start instantly.
I have done this on my old van (diesel)! Be careful in cold climates though as the manufactures intend for the fuel to run back down into the tank to avoid gelling.
My car starts up on the 2nd crank. If I let it prime longer on the first time itll crank a little longer and barely fires. I dont notice reduce mileage, stutter, stalling. It runs fine once on. Only started recently once the temperature dropped drastically these past days on the east coast. Side note, I do use royal purple addictive from time to time so idk if my fuel filter is dirty? If I leave it for a few hours and the engine is cold I'll have to crank twice again. When hot I dont have an issue. If it's the fuel check valve do you know if my dealership mechanic will replace it or was this a DIY that cant be done at a dealership? Please let me know what your initial thoughts are. It's a mazda 3 2012 currently have 148k miles and no check engine light. Will test fuel pressure soon too, just got one from AutoZone. The more videos I watch and more I read online, the more different things I think it could be. Someone said it could be a leaking fuel injector too if the pressure drops away once the engine is off but I dont smell gas. I can fire it up 2-3 hours later (barely) on the first prime. Any advice would help but after watching this I think it's the valve too. Thanks for your video and time!
Can I use it to restrisct air ,my air pump leaks air when it reaches higher than 40psi, thought that check valve might help but I don't know if it works with air?
I need to add a check valve for my fuel tank vent on my old classic car. It currently doesn't have a check valve and releases gas odors in my garage when parked. Where did you get your valve and what is the part number. Thanks
Would this work on my 97 Jeep 4.0? It requires 2 cranks to start if it sits more than 5 minutes and I've heard it's a fuel check valve, but that it's near the tank or pump. If you crank it after only sitting a couple minutes it fires up fast and strong 100%. Thanks.
www.ebay.ca/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2380057.m570.l1311.R1.TR11.TRC1.A0.H1.Xfuel+ch.TRS0&_nkw=fuel+check+valve&_sacat=0 All you need to do is find the right size you need.
I could yes.It's really not hard it's just a matter of removing a piece of line and replacing with the valve and making sure the flow arrow is pointed towards the engine and clamping it tight and that's really it. It needs to be the inlet line not the return line.
@@MrDoingEverything ?4U....The inline FCV...connects to flow line going to the engine. Once the engine is turned off I'm guessing the remaining fuel drains back into the FT, correct? The remaining fuel in the fuel rail drains back to the FT as well through the return line correct? Thx for the quick reply...DIYER over here.😁
@@Himithor The valve just stops the flow back into the tank on the main fuel line is all nothing else changes. Just keeps the fuel right there and ready instead of needing to pump it back up each time makes for easier starting cause gas it ready to be used fast with out delay. But when everything is already in good working order this is not needed.
This should be close to the fuel tank.
All that fuel is running back into the tank from the engine that’s why it has to crank so long to pressurize all that line with fuel.
Stick it on the outgoing line by the tank and all that distance will stay pressurized and you car should start instantly.
This comments should be starred
I have done this on my old van (diesel)! Be careful in cold climates though as the manufactures intend for the fuel to run back down into the tank to avoid gelling.
Thank you, just learned the purpose of a "Check Valve".👍👍
My car starts up on the 2nd crank. If I let it prime longer on the first time itll crank a little longer and barely fires. I dont notice reduce mileage, stutter, stalling. It runs fine once on. Only started recently once the temperature dropped drastically these past days on the east coast. Side note, I do use royal purple addictive from time to time so idk if my fuel filter is dirty? If I leave it for a few hours and the engine is cold I'll have to crank twice again. When hot I dont have an issue. If it's the fuel check valve do you know if my dealership mechanic will replace it or was this a DIY that cant be done at a dealership? Please let me know what your initial thoughts are. It's a mazda 3 2012 currently have 148k miles and no check engine light. Will test fuel pressure soon too, just got one from AutoZone. The more videos I watch and more I read online, the more different things I think it could be. Someone said it could be a leaking fuel injector too if the pressure drops away once the engine is off but I dont smell gas. I can fire it up 2-3 hours later (barely) on the first prime. Any advice would help but after watching this I think it's the valve too. Thanks for your video and time!
I’m having the same problem please let me know what you’ve done to fix it.
Can I use it to restrisct air ,my air pump leaks air when it reaches higher than 40psi, thought that check valve might help but I don't know if it works with air?
The directions tell you that it is to be installed as close to the gas tank as possible. But if that works what the hell.
The fuel line your pointing to is the return line it's pretty obvious cuz the pressure regulator is on the other line to regulate the pressure.....
I need to add a check valve for my fuel tank vent on my old classic car. It currently doesn't have a check valve and releases gas odors in my garage when parked. Where did you get your valve and what is the part number. Thanks
Ebay type in inline check valve for gas
Great Idea i have the same issue with a 08 Opel Astra 1.7 Diesel had to start will try your idea thanks.
Welcome
Hey, did you solve the problem with check valve, I have same astra 1.7 diesel and starting issues?
Would this work on my 97 Jeep 4.0? It requires 2 cranks to start if it sits more than 5 minutes and I've heard it's a fuel check valve, but that it's near the tank or pump. If you crank it after only sitting a couple minutes it fires up fast and strong 100%. Thanks.
Its not going to hurt anything that,s for sure.
I have this same exact issue on my 2012 mazda. What did you do to fix it?
Blessings, John 3:16. Jesus loves you.
When you do a video. Show the results
Did it fix your issue?
It helped out.
Any chance you got a part number for it?
www.ebay.ca/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2380057.m570.l1311.R1.TR11.TRC1.A0.H1.Xfuel+ch.TRS0&_nkw=fuel+check+valve&_sacat=0 All you need to do is find the right size you need.
So, maybe next time you can show us how you put it in???????????
I could yes.It's really not hard it's just a matter of removing a piece of line and replacing with the valve and making sure the flow arrow is pointed towards the engine and clamping it tight and that's really it. It needs to be the inlet line not the return line.
Sounds like it got the old shot gun method
I hate being a PARTS CHANGER!!!!!
Things break wear out they need repairing.
@@MrDoingEverything Yep ur right.
@@MrDoingEverything ?4U....The inline FCV...connects to flow line going to the engine. Once the engine is turned off I'm guessing the remaining fuel drains back into the FT, correct? The remaining fuel in the fuel rail drains back to the FT as well through the return line correct? Thx for the quick reply...DIYER over here.😁
@@Himithor The valve just stops the flow back into the tank on the main fuel line is all nothing else changes. Just keeps the fuel right there and ready instead of needing to pump it back up each time makes for easier starting cause gas it ready to be used fast with out delay. But when everything is already in good working order this is not needed.
did you manage to solve the problem with that valve?
It worked good then my pump went and changed the pump so really that valve is not needed any more but i kept in inline. No harm done.