Old bikes always works. I start to hate modern bikes by the stupid problems of wear and a lot of maintenance. All my old bikes still riding without problems. That's that I want. I want to ride. Thanks for your time and effort on this Channel. Grettings from Mallorca. ✨
Ahhhh not always 😅 if you don’t have the cantis set up right they just squeal rather than stop. Old suspension too, that melts, or freezes. Every generation has their problems but yeah, I do love 90s bikes.
Never saw the point of going 1x. Either it's lacking the spread or the jumps between gears are too high. My latest build is a gravel bike based on a '70s road bike frame (Reynolds 531) combined with Ultegra 3x9, and that gearing is the perfect choice. Plus, you can mix and match MTB and Road groupsets as you like - it just works!
Interesting comment on the Swytch unit. Much as I love my Single Speed I think I'd like a triple set up any day over a 1x . My old racing MTB had a 50-36-24 up front. That gave me ALL the gears... Love the cantis. I did see someone polish the posts on an old Scott to make them Uber smooth. Can't remember who. I've heard good things about the Gravel kings. I run schwalbe Land cruisers which are great as a mixed terrain tire. Those bars are a little BMXy, which is cool. Keep riding ✊
Yeeeeaaaaahhhhhh……. Sorry you didn’t like them haha! I still absolutely love them for my city riding and my 100 miles speed record definitely felt better on the slicks! As you know I’ve also had some GK on my commuter recently but I find them a little too sticky on purely road routes. My new commuter will have some DTH as I’ll keep it built up into winter and I like the grip in the wet.
I couldn’t keep up with a peloton on the fastest aero slicks let alone any form of knobblies 😂 I did ride my fixed gear along the wet, slick and muddy canal paths earlier this year though. That was fun.
nothing screams 90s more than anodised titanium bolts!! I remember changing every bolt out on my Campag Chorus groupset for gold Ti ones to match my Cannondale CAAD4 red and yellow frameset
Chances are your gears were not taking the torque well because those 10 index points are spread unevenly over 9 cogs, so most of them will be poorly aligned. I used to run a sram 9sp thumbshifter with 10sp clutched derailleur on an 8sp casette. The shifting was all over the place, but I got very good at holding the lever to keep it in gear 😅
There’s no index points my dude. That’s a friction shifter and as I found out it’s not suitable for a 10 Shimano MTB derailleur pull. That’s why it only got 9 gears. And as I said, it didn’t feel very firm so would ‘wander’ a little. The mechanism needs to be a bit tighter on the shifter.
@@MonkeyShred ahh missed that. My bad! Makes no sense that they made the range of the shifter too limited to use with 10sp mtb RDs then 🤔 missed opportunity if you ask me. Rad bike tho!
Maxxis DTH's are my favourite commuting tyres - they roll fast but still have enough grip on gravel, are durable and not super pricey. Plus everyone loves a good tanwall!
You can fix your pull ratio with a JTek Shiftmate sold from SJS Cycles. A great company making useful things, just like ProblemSolvers. I see you still using a chemical to loosen the grips on the bike. I've found that a fine tip on an air compressor pushed under the grip, or into the end if it has a hole on the end (and plugging the other side with my thumb) is usually all you need to pop a grip off. Tougher grips can be pulsed with air to loosen then a constant pressure will help introduce an even sheet of air that lets the rubber just slide off with pulling. I mention this partly because I'm about to replace my old compressor and it's on my mind.
Thanks for the tip. I have used the shift mate before on another build and buy from SJS regularly. If I decide to use that shifter again I might try that out. Unfortunately the cost of a used spoke and some hair spray vs a compressor, a generator and some fuel makes the hairspray a much better option for removing grips for me.
You could put shifter on left hand side, upside down like I did. Doesnt bother me there. And yes, road rear derailleur would be needed. I use old 105 shimano, it works on 10 speed cassette nicely.
@@RogerRabbittrotate them 72° (5 arm crank, or 90° on a 4 arm crank) clockwise onto the next arm. Then you'll notice the difference uphill. We did this back in 86 when they first came out. It was ridiculously obvious. What was Shimano thinking? We will never know. 🙄
Never understood the love for Thickslicks. No grip at all, not really fast rolling and weigh half a kilo each in 28c sizes! In comparison, 32c Gravelkings weigh 290 gm each. Sure, weight should not be a factor while picking tires but Thickslicks seem to be the worst of all worlds.
Thanks for the video :) I am a bit confused about that RD though, it should certainly be 10 speed for MTB. Was it limited by the thumb shifter range of motion maybe? I would try it with a 10 speed trigger shifter, that's what I have on my resto-mod as a 1x10 XT and it works beautifully - although it's an older XT without the clutch.
Yes exactly that. Sorry I thought I’d explained that clearly. The shifter pulls a certain amount but the road derailleur moves more than the mountain bike. I guess to compensate a mountain bike shifter pulls more cable per gear than a road shifter so in this instance, the generic shifter didn’t have enough pull to move the derailleur enough.
Not convinced by that new lever, surely if it had better ergonomics, it would already exist. As for the slicks, I think they are well suited for the show bikes but aren't very practical.
Sorry if I’ve missed it from earlier videos, I was wondering about the distance of your commute. It came to me when you said you’ve already racked up 500 miles
Technically… just under 2 miles each way but I always ride more. I try to average 100 miles a week commuting. That’s always the goal although it won’t always be on one bike.
Unless I'm doing a frame up build, I normally ride what the bike comes with, unless parts are broken on it or worn to a point where they are no longer safe to use. When things stand the test of time, it's best to just use them as they are intended and trust in the equipment you have. Too much faffing around can take away from the best part of owning these bikes; getting time to ride them.😉
Yes, those vintage 3x7 drivetrains are great. Used to ride a modern "Allroad-Bike" with 2x11 on my commutes, i recently build an old 1993 Cannondale M700 with front rack etc. 3x7 setup with 48-38-26 in front and a 11-32 cassette, dont really miss any gears and those Deore-Shifters with XT and LX derailleurs work just fine! Greetings from Germany
I love triples on seven speeds. If I happen to get an 8 speed hub I'd run 8 speed (less fussy indexing) with a larger ring and a 2x. I regret switching my 3x7 into a 3x10.
I mean, everything works. I could have just run the 7 speed XT thumby as a 1x7. It would have worked fine. I preferred the triple in this instance though.
@@MonkeyShred yes understood 😁 Im just glad triples/doubles seems to be getting a resurgence after all the vibe for 1x. I ran into more issues than benefits trying to make 1x or wide range double to work. Lost patience and went back to a smooth 3x8
I did a 1X9 a while back. Being familiar with triple cranks, the single at the front made the bike feel soulless. Completely agree with removing the e-bike stuff. The novelty quickly wears off and the weight of the thing, quickly becomes apparent (including extra problems that arise due to the extra c*ap being added). Sell the E bike stuff to fund The better 10 speed thumb shifter!
1x definitely has its place but I think I prefer double/triple for a commuter. The weight of the eBike kit was annoying but it was always a fun blast. I just got faster and kept hitting the motor limit making the front wheel drag so that’s what annoyed me the most.
Original Deore would be 6 speed index/friction. The MT60 shifters. The MT62 Deore were 7 speed index/friction. Both sets technically have a ‘extra’ click for an added gear though.
@@scottvanornum9252 Ohhh ok! That makes sense now. I always think of those as ‘Deerhead’ or first gen XT. Nice shifters though. I have a set waiting for the right frame.
No it’s not. It’s super easy. Technically. It wasn’t the wrong derailleur. The shifter was listed as compatible with 10 speed Shimano. It was only when I encountered a problem and messaged the maker that I was told it was only 10 speed road. When I checked after - there was no mention of that 🤷♂️ It’s also a friction shifter. It will shift with any derailleur within its range. That’s the ‘perk’ of friction. My comments are fair from the use I gave it.
@@MonkeyShred there are 3 different 10-speed pull ratios for Shimano. Friction shifters with >28mm won't pull Shimano DynaSys or any SRAM derailers. There are friction shifters that will shift dynasys and SRAM, including a few Dia Compe/Ene Ciclo pure friction shifters, or some of the microshift thumbies designed for ratios closer to 1:1. The Thumbster is made for a 1:1.8 ratio or thereabout. So, yeah, as you found out, that is the wrong derailer. If it were the right derailer, you'd have had enough cable to get all the cogs. The interesting part is, you could have used that shifter with a shimano 9speed longcage derailer and the same 10speed cassette and there'd have been enough pull... but depending on the model, the derailer might not have been abe to clear the biggest cog without some kind of hanger extension.
@@fatrobdouble thanks for that. I am aware of the different pull ratios and was before I bought the Thumbster but the important thing is - it was marketed as a 10 speed - not a 10 speed road. I don’t know if that has been updated since. I do realise the 10 speed MTB was the wrong derailleur to use the full range. It still works as a derailleur with a friction shifter though. Just not all gears. 😂
Similar riding on my commute on my old Nishiki Ariel 7 speed. I tried Thickslick but get on much better with Maxxis Hookworms and their minimal tread and at 2.5" they have a bit more cushion.
That’s an option but… if you want a bigger range and a clutch 10 speed is needed. Unless they’ve developed some modern 9 speed derailleurs with the old pull rate?
Since I am more of a fan of classic down tube shifters (they are the same but with different mount), there is more variety of them, vintage, replicas or new. Even we have new dura ace 9 speed sis index/friction for the right. I have few pairs of quill stem mounted shifters and few thumbies too. If we are using some of the modern generation shifters in the back, they need more cable travel for same side movement and some new models thumb shifters accommodate that. If we are not, the old ones will quickly run out of moment with that arrangement. I think that old Suntour thumbies are the best. My go to bike-rebuild type is an old commuter/touring roadie that I convert to flat bars, make good wheels with modern mid size road tires. Can I ask you some stuff over Email?
@@MonkeyShred I like them, started on them, rode decade on them for training, amateur road racing and brevets. Don't know how many kilometers I have on them but at least 100k. I am not the only one, so they are fine. ✌
@@Stefan_trekkie oh I know they’re fine. I also used them for a long time on my commuter bike years ago but there are still more ergonomic and user friendly choices. It’s always best to keep controls in one place.
I would have done the same end result. 10 speed is always avoid.. as is 11 and 12 TBH.. I might have went with a newer index shifter and 8speed with the same 11-36 range. 1X are junk. i sold my 2020 trek xc8 over that 32t front.. my norco indie4 is getting a 22/32/42 front ring from the 38t and already has an old DEORE where tourney 7speed was. might convert to 8spd but already firm advocate of 3x8 being king
It depends on the bike for me. There’s nothing wrong with 10/11 or 12 speed though. I’m running 11 and 12 speed on a few bikes without any problems. They are more off road focused though so the 1x11 and 1x12 is spot on for those scenarios.
@@the_nondrive_side yeah I don’t think 8 or 9 speed would work very well covering the 10-50 range I have on my full sus 😅 that’s where 12 speed comes in clutch… with the bonus of a clutch.
@@the_nondrive_side I have tried it. I used a 8 speed STX rear mech with a Sunrace Thumb shifter and a larger 11-42t cassette. The derailleur needed one of those hanger extenders to work with the larger cassette and I felt that made shifting sloppy. I didn’t like the large jumps between the gears either.
@@MonkeyShred Yeah I have similar on my Cannondale Lefty, but they’re just fractionally too small and I’d rather not start looking for shims and stuff, I’ll put them onto another bike and run different ones.
Old bikes always works. I start to hate modern bikes by the stupid problems of wear and a lot of maintenance. All my old bikes still riding without problems. That's that I want. I want to ride. Thanks for your time and effort on this Channel. Grettings from Mallorca. ✨
Ahhhh not always 😅 if you don’t have the cantis set up right they just squeal rather than stop. Old suspension too, that melts, or freezes. Every generation has their problems but yeah, I do love 90s bikes.
Never saw the point of going 1x. Either it's lacking the spread or the jumps between gears are too high.
My latest build is a gravel bike based on a '70s road bike frame (Reynolds 531) combined with Ultegra 3x9, and that gearing is the perfect choice. Plus, you can mix and match MTB and Road groupsets as you like - it just works!
It’s arguably cleaner and lighter but it’s definitely more suited to a modern mountain bike than a commuter.
Old skool rules! I love the vintage crud mudguards 👌🏻
Couldn’t resist getting that rear one when I saw it come up for sale. NOS too 👌
@@MonkeyShred sweet
Interesting comment on the Swytch unit. Much as I love my Single Speed I think I'd like a triple set up any day over a 1x .
My old racing MTB had a 50-36-24 up front. That gave me ALL the gears...
Love the cantis. I did see someone polish the posts on an old Scott to make them Uber smooth. Can't remember who.
I've heard good things about the Gravel kings. I run schwalbe Land cruisers which are great as a mixed terrain tire.
Those bars are a little BMXy, which is cool. Keep riding ✊
The bars are pretty awesome for commuting. Very comfy. They’re a BMX 22mm clamp too..
I love having thumb shifter for the FD. I always have issues with the indexing on the front being juuust off enough to piss me off.
Yeah I have to agree. Friction for the front makes a lot of sense. The ability to trim the mech is the best.
Yeeeeaaaaahhhhhh……. Sorry you didn’t like them haha! I still absolutely love them for my city riding and my 100 miles speed record definitely felt better on the slicks!
As you know I’ve also had some GK on my commuter recently but I find them a little too sticky on purely road routes.
My new commuter will have some DTH as I’ll keep it built up into winter and I like the grip in the wet.
Hello, thanks for you review: Do you know if it is compatible with this model of derailleur: Campagnolo Olympus MTB. thanks
Slicks offroad? Can you try full knobby downhill tires in a peloton next? Ha, fun build and interesting to watch.
I couldn’t keep up with a peloton on the fastest aero slicks let alone any form of knobblies 😂 I did ride my fixed gear along the wet, slick and muddy canal paths earlier this year though. That was fun.
nothing screams 90s more than anodised titanium bolts!! I remember changing every bolt out on my Campag Chorus groupset for gold Ti ones to match my Cannondale CAAD4 red and yellow frameset
I’m at least hoping they’re Ti 😅 they were considerably cheaper than the Ti bolts I could buy from the UK.
Chances are your gears were not taking the torque well because those 10 index points are spread unevenly over 9 cogs, so most of them will be poorly aligned.
I used to run a sram 9sp thumbshifter with 10sp clutched derailleur on an 8sp casette. The shifting was all over the place, but I got very good at holding the lever to keep it in gear 😅
There’s no index points my dude. That’s a friction shifter and as I found out it’s not suitable for a 10 Shimano MTB derailleur pull. That’s why it only got 9 gears.
And as I said, it didn’t feel very firm so would ‘wander’ a little. The mechanism needs to be a bit tighter on the shifter.
@@MonkeyShred ahh missed that. My bad!
Makes no sense that they made the range of the shifter too limited to use with 10sp mtb RDs then 🤔 missed opportunity if you ask me.
Rad bike tho!
I, too, have encountered brake bosses that had become a little bit mushroomed. Not often, but often enough to be aware that it happens.
Yeah ever so slightly mushroomed. A quick file and sand sorted them right out.
Maxxis DTH's are my favourite commuting tyres - they roll fast but still have enough grip on gravel, are durable and not super pricey. Plus everyone loves a good tanwall!
I run them on my 88 Saracen Trekker. You should check out that video too 🤝
I enjoyed this. Greatly.
Glad you enjoyed it!
Vintage thummies are truly my favorite. I recently scored on a 89” GT Karakoram K2 with thumb shifters!
Excellent! Hope you enjoy that bike.
You can fix your pull ratio with a JTek Shiftmate sold from SJS Cycles. A great company making useful things, just like ProblemSolvers.
I see you still using a chemical to loosen the grips on the bike. I've found that a fine tip on an air compressor pushed under the grip, or into the end if it has a hole on the end (and plugging the other side with my thumb) is usually all you need to pop a grip off. Tougher grips can be pulsed with air to loosen then a constant pressure will help introduce an even sheet of air that lets the rubber just slide off with pulling. I mention this partly because I'm about to replace my old compressor and it's on my mind.
Thanks for the tip. I have used the shift mate before on another build and buy from SJS regularly. If I decide to use that shifter again I might try that out.
Unfortunately the cost of a used spoke and some hair spray vs a compressor, a generator and some fuel makes the hairspray a much better option for removing grips for me.
You could put shifter on left hand side, upside down like I did. Doesnt bother me there. And yes, road rear
derailleur would be needed. I use old 105 shimano, it works on 10 speed cassette nicely.
Distinct like of Cat in this episode :(
She’s not always out when I’m filming Im afraid.
I think if a derailleur demands more cable pull, it is an option to put washers under the cable mount.
that bike is so dirty.. i love it lol
The sign of a bike that gets used!
Cool setup you have there!!
Thank you.
The Shimano XT and Suntour XC Pro thumbies are the best ever.
Hi Mark, try looking for a Shimano M592 rear derailleur. It shares the same ratio with road brifters. So you could use your 10 speed.
That’s good to know! No clutch for the 1x drivetrains but does handle a larger gear range.
That was an interesting experiment. Have you ever experimented with "Biopace" chainrings?
I'm running bio pace on my hardrock cause I haven't been able to get a narrow wide yet, not really any different than a round chainring
Yes. My ‘old’ commuter, a 1988 Saracen Trekker, has the XT M730 Biopace rings. 1000 miles on that bike. Hard to say if they do anything.
@@RogerRabbittrotate them 72° (5 arm crank, or 90° on a 4 arm crank) clockwise onto the next arm. Then you'll notice the difference uphill.
We did this back in 86 when they first came out. It was ridiculously obvious. What was Shimano thinking? We will never know. 🙄
I have a modern thumb shifter, super solid and easy to maintain
How often do you perform maintenance on your shifters?
Never understood the love for Thickslicks. No grip at all, not really fast rolling and weigh half a kilo each in 28c sizes! In comparison, 32c Gravelkings weigh 290 gm each. Sure, weight should not be a factor while picking tires but Thickslicks seem to be the worst of all worlds.
I mean, they are a fast rolling mtb tyre option for road. They’re heavy because of the case thickness for puncture protection.
Thanks for the video :) I am a bit confused about that RD though, it should certainly be 10 speed for MTB. Was it limited by the thumb shifter range of motion maybe? I would try it with a 10 speed trigger shifter, that's what I have on my resto-mod as a 1x10 XT and it works beautifully - although it's an older XT without the clutch.
Yes exactly that. Sorry I thought I’d explained that clearly. The shifter pulls a certain amount but the road derailleur moves more than the mountain bike. I guess to compensate a mountain bike shifter pulls more cable per gear than a road shifter so in this instance, the generic shifter didn’t have enough pull to move the derailleur enough.
@@MonkeyShred My apologies, on a second watch I realized you were blaming the shifter and not the derailleur, silly me!
Nice rims
Thanks 👍
Not convinced by that new lever, surely if it had better ergonomics, it would already exist.
As for the slicks, I think they are well suited for the show bikes but aren't very practical.
If it has better ergonomics it would already exist? I don’t think that’s how development works my dude 😅
Sorry if I’ve missed it from earlier videos, I was wondering about the distance of your commute.
It came to me when you said you’ve already racked up 500 miles
Technically… just under 2 miles each way but I always ride more. I try to average 100 miles a week commuting. That’s always the goal although it won’t always be on one bike.
Unless I'm doing a frame up build, I normally ride what the bike comes with, unless parts are broken on it or worn to a point where they are no longer safe to use. When things stand the test of time, it's best to just use them as they are intended and trust in the equipment you have. Too much faffing around can take away from the best part of owning these bikes; getting time to ride them.😉
This was a frame up build 😂
Well. Technically it came with a bunch of broken and junk parts attached but yeah - frame up build from that start.
Nice experiment! Those slick tyres would make me nervous though. Love the bars and some great camera shots at the end. Great video!
Thank you. The Insta360 worked well for those shots.
Nice video. I think the classic thumbies look much nicer than the thumbster too.
XT thumbies always hit the right spot.
Great video and excellent commentary. Thanks.
Glad you enjoyed it! Thank you.
Yes, those vintage 3x7 drivetrains are great. Used to ride a modern "Allroad-Bike" with 2x11 on my commutes, i recently build an old 1993 Cannondale M700 with front rack etc. 3x7 setup with 48-38-26 in front and a 11-32 cassette, dont really miss any gears and those Deore-Shifters with XT and LX derailleurs work just fine! Greetings from Germany
Love the old steel late 80s and early 90s bikes
They’re great eh. Very versatile.
Proof again that triples just simply work 🤘
I love triples on seven speeds. If I happen to get an 8 speed hub I'd run 8 speed (less fussy indexing) with a larger ring and a 2x. I regret switching my 3x7 into a 3x10.
I mean, everything works. I could have just run the 7 speed XT thumby as a 1x7. It would have worked fine. I preferred the triple in this instance though.
@@MonkeyShred yes understood 😁 Im just glad triples/doubles seems to be getting a resurgence after all the vibe for 1x. I ran into more issues than benefits trying to make 1x or wide range double to work. Lost patience and went back to a smooth 3x8
My trek is from 2015 it works great for everything i ask it to
Good to know.
I did a 1X9 a while back. Being familiar with triple cranks, the single at the front made the bike feel soulless. Completely agree with removing the e-bike stuff. The novelty quickly wears off and the weight of the thing, quickly becomes apparent (including extra problems that arise due to the extra c*ap being added).
Sell the E bike stuff to fund The better 10 speed thumb shifter!
1x definitely has its place but I think I prefer double/triple for a commuter. The weight of the eBike kit was annoying but it was always a fun blast. I just got faster and kept hitting the motor limit making the front wheel drag so that’s what annoyed me the most.
Great fun and sweet build. Did get some crinch when You installed the shifter/brake lever though 😂
Just grind it 🙃
@@MonkeyShred
What do you think of the thickslicks ?
I didn’t use them for long. They’re decent enough for roads but if you encounter any wet, muddy canal paths or anything similar. I’d give them a miss.
Is that thumbie friction ??
Yup. Friction only.
I love older bike. It just works.
As long as they’re maintained 😅
Omg~outstandnig content, so long-
Farewell.
What front rack is that you have on the bike?
I like the looks of the older thumb shifter too.
All bike specs are in the description my dude.
Thank you, I'll check them out.
I love the original Deore friction only shifter, but they will only do 7 speeds.
Original Deore would be 6 speed index/friction. The MT60 shifters. The MT62 Deore were 7 speed index/friction. Both sets technically have a ‘extra’ click for an added gear though.
@@MonkeyShred I’m thinking of the SL-M700 friction only. They’re really old.
@@scottvanornum9252 Ohhh ok! That makes sense now. I always think of those as ‘Deerhead’ or first gen XT. Nice shifters though. I have a set waiting for the right frame.
still wondering why this xt rd still looks better than the newer xt lol
Which one? There were two shown here
@@MonkeyShred oh I forgot, the one with clutch...the color of that RD really blends with classic crank with black ring
it's tough to criticize the shifter when you're using it with the wrong derailer.
No it’s not. It’s super easy.
Technically. It wasn’t the wrong derailleur. The shifter was listed as compatible with 10 speed Shimano. It was only when I encountered a problem and messaged the maker that I was told it was only 10 speed road. When I checked after - there was no mention of that 🤷♂️
It’s also a friction shifter. It will shift with any derailleur within its range. That’s the ‘perk’ of friction.
My comments are fair from the use I gave it.
@@MonkeyShred there are 3 different 10-speed pull ratios for Shimano. Friction shifters with >28mm won't pull Shimano DynaSys or any SRAM derailers. There are friction shifters that will shift dynasys and SRAM, including a few Dia Compe/Ene Ciclo pure friction shifters, or some of the microshift thumbies designed for ratios closer to 1:1. The Thumbster is made for a 1:1.8 ratio or thereabout.
So, yeah, as you found out, that is the wrong derailer. If it were the right derailer, you'd have had enough cable to get all the cogs. The interesting part is, you could have used that shifter with a shimano 9speed longcage derailer and the same 10speed cassette and there'd have been enough pull... but depending on the model, the derailer might not have been abe to clear the biggest cog without some kind of hanger extension.
@@fatrobdouble thanks for that. I am aware of the different pull ratios and was before I bought the Thumbster but the important thing is - it was marketed as a 10 speed - not a 10 speed road. I don’t know if that has been updated since.
I do realise the 10 speed MTB was the wrong derailleur to use the full range. It still works as a derailleur with a friction shifter though. Just not all gears. 😂
Russ over on Path Less Peddled has developed the Uno friction shifter to work with 10, 11 and 12 speeds. $150.00 USD so if you have a spare kidney 😁
Yikes. I didn’t know it was that expensive!
Similar riding on my commute on my old Nishiki Ariel 7 speed. I tried Thickslick but get on much better with Maxxis Hookworms and their minimal tread and at 2.5" they have a bit more cushion.
I’ve found the Maxxis DTH make a pretty good commuter tyre too.
Hey you're back
Occasionally! Yes!
Shimano 9-speed mountain uses same pull as 9 (and 10) speed road. Use a 9-speed mountain derailleur and you will get all 10 gears
That’s an option but… if you want a bigger range and a clutch 10 speed is needed. Unless they’ve developed some modern 9 speed derailleurs with the old pull rate?
Awesome build!!!
Thanks!
How do you mount a GoPro to the seatstay? I’d like to try it
That’s an Insta360 but I do just use the GoPro bike mount.
@@MonkeyShred what sort of mount is it?
@@connorcampbell144 the GoPro bike mount.
@@MonkeyShred sorry didn’t realise that was the name of the mount
Yey!!! Sanity prevails!!!!! 😂
As you know mate, I wouldn't swap my XT 7sp thumbies for the world 😅
Lovely build and bike.
Just needs bar ends now 😮😂😂
I don’t quite think bar ends would suit those bars 😂
@@MonkeyShred 😋😂👍
Since I am more of a fan of classic down tube shifters (they are the same but with different mount), there is more variety of them, vintage, replicas or new. Even we have new dura ace 9 speed sis index/friction for the right. I have few pairs of quill stem mounted shifters and few thumbies too. If we are using some of the modern generation shifters in the back, they need more cable travel for same side movement and some new models thumb shifters accommodate that. If we are not, the old ones will quickly run out of moment with that arrangement. I think that old Suntour thumbies are the best. My go to bike-rebuild type is an old commuter/touring roadie that I convert to flat bars, make good wheels with modern mid size road tires. Can I ask you some stuff over Email?
Ah the problem with downtube shifters though... they're one of the worst designs for ergonomics.
@@MonkeyShred I like them, started on them, rode decade on them for training, amateur road racing and brevets. Don't know how many kilometers I have on them but at least 100k. I am not the only one, so they are fine. ✌
@@Stefan_trekkie oh I know they’re fine. I also used them for a long time on my commuter bike years ago but there are still more ergonomic and user friendly choices. It’s always best to keep controls in one place.
any chance of an internal hub gear coversion next?
I don’t think so but maybe in the distant future it could be a possibility.
I would have done the same end result. 10 speed is always avoid.. as is 11 and 12 TBH.. I might have went with a newer index shifter and 8speed with the same 11-36 range. 1X are junk. i sold my 2020 trek xc8 over that 32t front.. my norco indie4 is getting a 22/32/42 front ring from the 38t and already has an old DEORE where tourney 7speed was. might convert to 8spd but already firm advocate of 3x8 being king
It depends on the bike for me. There’s nothing wrong with 10/11 or 12 speed though. I’m running 11 and 12 speed on a few bikes without any problems. They are more off road focused though so the 1x11 and 1x12 is spot on for those scenarios.
@MonkeyShred yeah. I feel that. Downhill bikes and the likes. Still basically all about the RD clutch... 8/9 speed is the best overall even in 1X
@@the_nondrive_side yeah I don’t think 8 or 9 speed would work very well covering the 10-50 range I have on my full sus 😅 that’s where 12 speed comes in clutch… with the bonus of a clutch.
@@MonkeyShred you should try it. I sold my SRAM 12spd and gonna stick with 8/9 or IGH
@@the_nondrive_side I have tried it. I used a 8 speed STX rear mech with a Sunrace Thumb shifter and a larger 11-42t cassette. The derailleur needed one of those hanger extenders to work with the larger cassette and I felt that made shifting sloppy. I didn’t like the large jumps between the gears either.
Love it.
Thank you.
Love those bars
MX style. Not too tall. Nice and wide. Great for a comfy ride.
@@MonkeyShred Yeah I have similar on my Cannondale Lefty, but they’re just fractionally too small and I’d rather not start looking for shims and stuff, I’ll put them onto another bike and run different ones.