327 Nova First Start! | Deeper Look #15
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- Опубліковано 3 січ 2021
- In this short video we finish installing the 327 into the Super Sketch Nova and fire it up for the first time in over a decade!
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Just love these "Shed/Garage" Builds!
"The moment of truth. After all of this will the shaft be the correct length".
That's what she said.
I love that I found your channel. I grew up between Buckley and Sumner. Lots of hotrodding /racing in the late 70s early 80s. I am running a 350 I had built in 81. It is in a 60 Chevy lwb. Had since 82... Still running . Use the red cam for the accel pump. It gives a shot all to full throttle. Then I use the squirters with the little nozzles and drill them with a pin drill. I think mine are about .042 inches now.. Love the vids guys...
Time to step up the jets and check timing. Make that Engine scream. Had me 68 Nova back in 1993 painted Corvette yellow. Got from my brother in trade of course with no engine. I put a 327 with Turbo 350. Had a lot fun and bought alot of tires.
Thank you for the memories! My dad had a 327 when I was a teen. We used that great motor in many cars and I loved it's performance. My dad has since passed and brings back all those days we worked on it and swapped to different cars. One was a 1976 CAPRICE. Again, thank you!
Hi everybody I read some comments about some of you don't use antifreeze on a first start, in case of leaks or whatever. Our local race tracks do not allow us to use antifreeze so we use either Evans brand which is very expensive, it works really well but it is expensive. And I'm sorry I'm getting off track. Those that only use water, just add some water soluble oil and that will prevent corrosion. Love the videos and reading people's input. Let's keep these cars on the road. Keep driving them while working on them. Let them be seen! Okay everybody, be well.
Runs super good for the first start...well done!!!
Sounds good. And thanks for the website. I love trying out these kind of calculators
The dummy distributor shaft to build oil pressure is a great safety precaution. If you take a thermostat out then at high rpms the water doesn't stay in the radiator long enough to cool, it will need a restrictor plate of 5/8's to 3/4's to slow the water down. I'm no rear axle specialist but it seems as though the pinion has too much play in it. I think it's only supposed to be between 004 and 008 thousands. I bet you have at least 012 in it by the way it looks from here. Nova's and 327's are a match made in heaven. Car should be a lot of fun.
Best sounding first start I've seen on youtube since I can remember. No tick tick tick tick
Sounds good!
Awesome video boys!
Keep grinding fellas, looking good!
You guys do great videos. I can't wait to see you guys drive the car.
Very nice! Sounds good. Reminds me of the first fire up of my balanced, blueprinted 440 Mopar I did for my 62 Plymouth Sport Fury 2door bracket car when I worked at Booth-Arons engines.
Sounds great-
Just found your channel. Loving the content
Hope she rips bud!
I've been watching you lads since day 1 and it's nice to see cars being build with used parts, skill and some trial and error, not just a wedge of cash and a summit catalogue.
Got some more of my Nova's (FWD euro shit box I think you'd call it) welding done over the last week and the engine rebuild is insight.
Ya buddy so far so good sound good guys!
Nice 👍🏼 nova brother 🤙
Great job! I never liked thermo switches for electric fans. Simple toggle works for me.
Both my belair and my camaro would go lean on initial throttle input. I have holly's on both cars. I figured out that i needed to buy a few sets of accelerator pump cams and use the Blue one.
When you prime a Chevy motor you should use a distributor housing, because the grooves in the housing direct oil to the cam tunnel. Without it it dumps it back to the pan, no top end oiling😳
thats cool man. would be awesome if i could find myself a 70 nova. my pops had one with a 250 6cyl and 3spd i think saginaw. so yeah I'm more of a 6cyl gyt man v8 both are cool otherwise. few yrs ago i had a 76 4th gen nova with the same specs. but sold it. darn.
awsome video, about what horsepower does this new motor make?
Should be about 330HP. If it hits 108MPH in the 1/4 we'll know for for sure...
Are you guys going to start making longer episodes? Its a little hard to stay interested in the short videos stretched out over a long time. Not trying to be critical of your work. I know it takes alot of time to film and edit these. I really like your channel. Just wanted to give a little input. Ive been subbed since yalls first video. Keep up the cool content. 👍
It’s Alive
I'm glad you didn't make enough torque tightening the yolk to move the car down off the ramps with you under it
Sounds like she'll run fine, after you adjust the belt slip, and y'all did fine job wrenching on the old gurl.
Did you even notice if the concrete was cold, because I never noticed those little discomforts like that, whenever I was close to that magic moment of finally getting to turn the key on.
Y'all have stronger will power than me, cause I'd of taken it for a ride, even if it was raining so hard you couldn't see.
As far as break in time, that was however long it took to get timing set, adjust the carb for smooth idle, check for any leaks, and reach the stop sign at the end of the road.
Make the turn at the stop sign, check both directions, run her up to bout 2,500 rpm's, slide toe of the clutch, then proceed with speed shifting through the gears WFO to next stop sign, and hung bootleg U turn back up through the gears, and check gauges as I made the corner headed back home to check for leaks, and adjust on the carb, and timing again, and possibly adjust clutch again.
There she's broken in, and ready to go, barring any major leaks.
Building a 70 nova myself
I have that EXACT same harbor freight pick hammer with the handle half torn off?! Did you guys steal it?????
If your drive shaft is short you can get a longer yoke.
Can you explain to me why you set your crank at 11° advanced, with your distributor rotor pointed at number one? I'm having problems timing my engine and I've played around with the distributor and just can't seem to get it dialed in.
Most old production engines like an initial timing advance of no less than 10-15 degrees before TDC with all in of 35 degrees between 3000 and 4000 rpm. So to keep from having to remove and "re-clock" the entire distributor I get as close to that initial 10-15 degree setting by putting the crank at 11 BTDC and put the distributor in with the rotor pointing at the #1 spark plug wire also making sure the vacuum advance diaphragm has room to rotate either direction. This gets me really close then I'll time it with a timing light with the engine at 4000rpm making sure the timing is no more than 35 degrees at 4000rpm.
@@NotRodShop I have a 91 suburban with the electronic distributor. Would this be the same scenario?
@@rjlittlefield9209 as I recall if thats the stock distributor you are supposed to unhook the single wire that is tan with a black strip, then set your timing at zero degrees then hook that wire back up and you're done. There is no mechanical or vacuum advance, its all done with the computer. However you can verify that the computer is changing the timing by seeing what the timing does with a timing light after hooking the bypass wire back up.
@@NotRodShop thanks dude I'll give that a try
sounds mean guys
Risky move filling with antifreeze on a first start. Mine get water only til they prove they can hold it.
timing too low cause heating problem
Death proof clone!!!
TIP: Never place your nose directly under a driveshaft that isn't bolted ,,while lying on your back,,,Don't ask me why:)
Not to complain but I REALL Y wish you'd post the vid on the first drive...