Also on this one you don't have to pull the backing plate off if you're confident enough and you can get the bolt in the right spot you can actually use the backing plate metal to push up again because it's plush up against the knuckle face, it's just this particular Tech prefers to take it off and then I finished the job.
Can this same technique be used on the fronts as well? Going to be doing fronts on my wife's 17 explorer very soon. If the same I will purchase the bolts and copy what you have done here. Have a noise that I believe coming from front bearings. Can really hear the hum noise come in around 40mph. Thank you! Love the videos.
Are the nuts the same ones that go to the toe links ? @ 3:43 in video cause I have yet to find any nuts like that,to get them to go past the head of bolt and have the flange on outside not being a locking nut. Thanks a Million
For rear bearing / hub assembly removal: There's no need to remove the backing plate. There's a slight clearance area in the backing plate that will allow a coarse thread 3/8" grade 8 bolt to press against the knuckle with nothing in the way. On the passenger side this will be at 9:00 o'clock and on the driver's side this will be at 3:00 o'clock. Using this 3/8" bolt and nut as a press, as shown in the video, you will be able to press the bearing / hub assembly from the knuckle. It will press it out at an angle, but if you retract your 3/8" bolt, you can move it almost 180 degrees across and press through another lug stud hole. Stick a few washers in between the bearing flange and the knuckle where you just pressed so that the bearing doesn't go back in when you start pressing on the opposite side. This time you will press partially on the backing plate, but the aluminum knuckle is behind it so it only smears the tin plate a bit. It won't cause any damage that needs to be repaired in regard to the backing plate. Once the bearing / hub assembly is removed, use a rat tail file, or carefully a die grinder, to remove the heavy white cake / crust from inside the bearing / hub assembly hole before you install the new one. The rustiest one you'll ever see can be changed in 35 minutes. That's from removing the wheel to re-installing the wheel and torqueing the lug nuts. If it takes an hour, so what. You're doing it.
Your a genius. Had the same problem. Used M12 bolts in that I was too lazy to drill out the hub. Worked absolutely great. Thanks so much for sharing this
☆ IT WORKS☆ Watching this video save my butt. Worked on it for 3 days with hammers and slide hammer with penetrating oil. Also tried heating the bearing some too. Did both rear wheel bearings with technic. Thank you so much.
As a back yard mechanic that evolved to something very similar, I wish I had seen this video before I started. Anybody thinking of doing this just follow the video exactly. The reamed hole and flattened nut gives you much more force and no need for a wrench on the nut. Awesome video, thanks for the post!!
Thanks for the tip! I used grade 8 1/2" x 2.5" bolts and nuts. This allowed me to skip the reamer as they just fit after cutting out studs. I also cut small square pieces of steel to go underneath the bolt as it drives in to wedge against the knuckle. No damage was done and it came right out. The corrosion in there was absolutely horrible (east coast rust belt). That thing was NEVER coming off with just a hammer..
This is ABSOLUTELY the only way to get these bearings out. I managed to use 2 1/2 grade 8 bolts and 2 1 inch pieces of flat stock (to spread the pressure) to get mine off. Didn't have to use the 5/8ths. I tried every other method found on UA-cam. Nothing budged it. Used this method, had it off in 2 minutes.
Changed out both front hubs on my Explorer and really questioned my sanity. Considered changing the knuckle on both sides after using grade 8 bolts and nuts ( should have drilled it out like this) and hitting it 200 times with a sledge they finally came out. The larger bolts is definitely the way to go. Thanks.
After endlessly slide hammer& 3lb hammer slamming the living hell out of my rear hub today. I can’t wait to go pickup those bolts and try this out tomorrow 🙏🏼🙏🏼 thank you boss
So you are talking about the Hub tamer it's got like the u-shaped flange that bolts onto the lugs and then it's got a long shaft that sticks out with an impact surface and then you hit it with a sledgehammer! Yeah that system does not work on these wheel bearings you literally start to crush the face of the tool in before the wheel bearing even starts to budge.....how do I know that? Because Matco Tools came by and they brought me the new upgraded version generation 2 and I crushed the face of it trying to take one of these wheel bearings out that thing does not work on these Ford Explorer wheel bearings
@@FordBossMe i just changed both of mine and if you use 5/8 closed end of wrenches for washer, use the lug nuts for bolts, and hit it like a man. Your tool was built like shit because mine is 3/4" plate against the bearing, 3/8 wall 2×2 tube, and 3/8" plate on both sides of sides that you hit. Took me 5 min
Thanks for the tip. Hope I don't have to fight my hub. I don't have pneumatic tools , just backyard tools..and my 2015 Explorer, I bought,came from NY..
You can find a thinner bolt that actually fits without having to do all the grinding and you can make it easier on yourself I was just using what I had available here
I had the same problem and had to use the plasma cutter and sawzall to make a relief cut before it would come out. I guess i should try with keeping the axel nut in next time to see if that help keep them together. The bearing separated very easily on both back ones. I'm going to try on the front ones to keep the axel connected and use the tool i have that's so much easier than drilling these out like you did.
Ok so i got one side out and replaced successfully. The other side the bearing split and pulled out of the hub(which was the side that was going bad). Im guessing im left to heat and air chisel the flanges? Thanks You this video helped after hours of hammering.
Same here, I may see how creative I can get with the welder and slide hammer. Worse case I'll just pull the whole knuckle out so I can get it into a press.
iv replaced a bunch of these, i use 7/16 fine thread bolts and som washers, i hold the bolt and turn the nut with an open end wrench. doesn't scuff up the knuckle as bad.
Very nice and it will certainly save people time and money! What about some relief on the AL knuckle? I wonder if a few dimes or quarters or some thin stock would make it a bit cleaner.
That's particularly the reason why in the pin post I put underneath it you can actually leave the backing plate on and use the material of the backing plate to protect the knuckle a little bit but it doesn't really matter it doesn't hurt anything by doing it this way
I fought about 2 hrs on mine, then I pulled the knuckle, chucked it in a 20 ton press, and pushed on beat it with an air chisel, finally I won. All said and done 6 or 7 hrs
I had to do this on the rear when i changed them out. Worked perfect. I have to change out the front ones this week. Do i need to use the same technique? Or are the fronts any easier?
I'm about to tackle this one. I watched and read the comments. I have the grade 8 1/2 inchers and will put pennies behind them to keep from damaging the hub. Wish me luck. Tha ks for the video
well we were tired killing our selves for an hour -- hour-and-a-half trying to get these things out and we had to find a better way and this work's super efficiently
Right, efficient for you, but damage to the customer's vehicle because you wont take the time and care.... good method to use if working on ones own car and are find with degrading the knuckle.
@Ford Boss Me I spent a full day hammering on a 2013 Durango's hub assembly before I thought I was doing the 'right' thing getting the slide hammer. Wore me, my 16 year old and 11 year old out with zero movement. 3rd day I tried this trick and it was out in no time. I might hit one that doesn't look rusted on a few times, but I'll quickly be going to this method almost every time from now on
the exact bolts i use are
2x w715419-s439
2x ws20215-3440
these are explorer toe link bolts the outboard to nuckle ones
Also on this one you don't have to pull the backing plate off if you're confident enough and you can get the bolt in the right spot you can actually use the backing plate metal to push up again because it's plush up against the knuckle face, it's just this particular Tech prefers to take it off and then I finished the job.
Can this same technique be used on the fronts as well? Going to be doing fronts on my wife's 17 explorer very soon. If the same I will purchase the bolts and copy what you have done here. Have a noise that I believe coming from front bearings. Can really hear the hum noise come in around 40mph.
Thank you! Love the videos.
Are the nuts the same ones that go to the toe links ? @ 3:43 in video cause I have yet to find any nuts like that,to get them to go past the head of bolt and have the flange on outside not being a locking nut. Thanks a Million
@Richard5873 you can find a half in bolt and nut and it will do the same
As a journeyman electrician I've learned to listen to the old timers to get ahead in this world. Thank you for this trick.
For rear bearing / hub assembly removal: There's no need to remove the backing plate. There's a slight clearance area in the backing plate that will allow a coarse thread 3/8" grade 8 bolt to press against the knuckle with nothing in the way. On the passenger side this will be at 9:00 o'clock and on the driver's side this will be at 3:00 o'clock. Using this 3/8" bolt and nut as a press, as shown in the video, you will be able to press the bearing / hub assembly from the knuckle. It will press it out at an angle, but if you retract your 3/8" bolt, you can move it almost 180 degrees across and press through another lug stud hole. Stick a few washers in between the bearing flange and the knuckle where you just pressed so that the bearing doesn't go back in when you start pressing on the opposite side. This time you will press partially on the backing plate, but the aluminum knuckle is behind it so it only smears the tin plate a bit. It won't cause any damage that needs to be repaired in regard to the backing plate. Once the bearing / hub assembly is removed, use a rat tail file, or carefully a die grinder, to remove the heavy white cake / crust from inside the bearing / hub assembly hole before you install the new one. The rustiest one you'll ever see can be changed in 35 minutes. That's from removing the wheel to re-installing the wheel and torqueing the lug nuts. If it takes an hour, so what. You're doing it.
Your a genius. Had the same problem. Used M12 bolts in that I was too lazy to drill out the hub. Worked absolutely great. Thanks so much for sharing this
Glad it helped
☆ IT WORKS☆
Watching this video save my butt. Worked on it for 3 days with hammers and slide hammer with penetrating oil. Also tried heating the bearing some too. Did both rear wheel bearings with technic.
Thank you so much.
As a back yard mechanic that evolved to something very similar, I wish I had seen this video before I started. Anybody thinking of doing this just follow the video exactly. The reamed hole and flattened nut gives you much more force and no need for a wrench on the nut. Awesome video, thanks for the post!!
The both work but I prefer my way like you stated here
Thanks for the tip! I used grade 8 1/2" x 2.5" bolts and nuts. This allowed me to skip the reamer as they just fit after cutting out studs. I also cut small square pieces of steel to go underneath the bolt as it drives in to wedge against the knuckle. No damage was done and it came right out. The corrosion in there was absolutely horrible (east coast rust belt). That thing was NEVER coming off with just a hammer..
They actually have a set of bowls with a rounded ball tip called The Last Resort from Astro
@@FordBossMe seen a video, of where they broke.dont know but I'd give guy's advice..
I bought that set and used it on the rear wheel bearings and the bolts got destroyed. I wonder if Astro would warranty them?
I used the same method. I wish I had seen this video 1st! I actually broke my hub puller, then used this method.
Holy crap, my hub was like yours. First time replacing them in my ford. Thank you.
Glad I could help
Wow. Thanks a lot man!! I will show someone else for good karma. Appreciate u taking that time to show🍻
Any time!
This is ABSOLUTELY the only way to get these bearings out. I managed to use 2 1/2 grade 8 bolts and 2 1 inch pieces of flat stock (to spread the pressure) to get mine off. Didn't have to use the 5/8ths. I tried every other method found on UA-cam. Nothing budged it. Used this method, had it off in 2 minutes.
Absolutely beautiful
Changed out both front hubs on my Explorer and really questioned my sanity. Considered changing the knuckle on both sides after using grade 8 bolts and nuts ( should have drilled it out like this) and hitting it 200 times with a sledge they finally came out. The larger bolts is definitely the way to go. Thanks.
I had to use this trick earlier today on my mothers 2011 Explorer, worked fantastic!!
After endlessly slide hammer& 3lb hammer slamming the living hell out of my rear hub today. I can’t wait to go pickup those bolts and try this out tomorrow 🙏🏼🙏🏼 thank you boss
Some 9/16 bolts will work also
They make a tool that attaches to the hub studs and uses a slide hammer to pull it off . Less intrusive and quicker for a shop .😊
I bought a tool that bolts to the lug nuts and and extends out so you can wail on it with a sledge hammer. Works like a dream. I highly recommend it.
So you are talking about the Hub tamer it's got like the u-shaped flange that bolts onto the lugs and then it's got a long shaft that sticks out with an impact surface and then you hit it with a sledgehammer! Yeah that system does not work on these wheel bearings you literally start to crush the face of the tool in before the wheel bearing even starts to budge.....how do I know that?
Because Matco Tools came by and they brought me the new upgraded version generation 2 and I crushed the face of it trying to take one of these wheel bearings out that thing does not work on these Ford Explorer wheel bearings
@@FordBossMe i just changed both of mine and if you use 5/8 closed end of wrenches for washer, use the lug nuts for bolts, and hit it like a man. Your tool was built like shit because mine is 3/4" plate against the bearing, 3/8 wall 2×2 tube, and 3/8" plate on both sides of sides that you hit. Took me 5 min
Thanks for the tip. Hope I don't have to fight my hub. I don't have pneumatic tools , just backyard tools..and my 2015 Explorer, I bought,came from NY..
Thanks to both you and papa shop!
You can find a thinner bolt that actually fits without having to do all the grinding and you can make it easier on yourself I was just using what I had available here
I pulled apart the bearing. Need to keep the spindle nut tightened back down to hold it together until it breaks free
Yeah that can happen but that's rare you don't actually need to keep the spindle nut on there but that is a possibility
I had the same problem and had to use the plasma cutter and sawzall to make a relief cut before it would come out. I guess i should try with keeping the axel nut in next time to see if that help keep them together. The bearing separated very easily on both back ones. I'm going to try on the front ones to keep the axel connected and use the tool i have that's so much easier than drilling these out like you did.
Ok so i got one side out and replaced successfully. The other side the bearing split and pulled out of the hub(which was the side that was going bad). Im guessing im left to heat and air chisel the flanges? Thanks You this video helped after hours of hammering.
Same here, I may see how creative I can get with the welder and slide hammer. Worse case I'll just pull the whole knuckle out so I can get it into a press.
Chingon bro thank you very much
That's fantastic. Great info and thanks for sharing. You're not just a pretty face LOL.
Have a great evening.
iv replaced a bunch of these, i use 7/16 fine thread bolts and som washers, i hold the bolt and turn the nut with an open end wrench. doesn't scuff up the knuckle as bad.
Scuffing the knuckle is no big deal
Very nice and it will certainly save people time and money! What about some relief on the AL knuckle? I wonder if a few dimes or quarters or some thin stock would make it a bit cleaner.
Potato potahto
I'm planting the seed it's other people's job to grow it
That's particularly the reason why in the pin post I put underneath it you can actually leave the backing plate on and use the material of the backing plate to protect the knuckle a little bit but it doesn't really matter it doesn't hurt anything by doing it this way
@@FordBossMe I'm too OCD :lol:. That is why I can't do it professionally.
@@alb12345672 unfortunately we're not given the tools all the time and we have to make do with what we have
I use my OTC hub grappler, pop some suspension bolts out and lean the knuckle down. The tool pulls the hub off within 30 seconds.
I have the same kit and it's nowhere near as easy as just using a few bolts and nuts
Excellent video. Much appreciated.
Good stuff 👍🏼
Thank you bro we had to use a sledgehammer to break them out on mine it was horrible
Jackhammer I'm sorry
After over 2 hours of heating and beating I arrived here lmao. Your not kidding, it is a bitch of a job! To the hardware store I go
It worked!!! Thanks again!!!
Thanks. I have Two days fighting this hub. Ima try it today
I fought about 2 hrs on mine, then I pulled the knuckle, chucked it in a 20 ton press, and pushed on beat it with an air chisel, finally I won. All said and done 6 or 7 hrs
Had to do the same thing but used a breaker bar with harden steel bolts. The explorer wheel bearing hubs are horrible!
I had to do this on the rear when i changed them out. Worked perfect. I have to change out the front ones this week. Do i need to use the same technique? Or are the fronts any easier?
You're probably going to have to use the same technique
I'm about to tackle this one. I watched and read the comments. I have the grade 8 1/2 inchers and will put pennies behind them to keep from damaging the hub. Wish me luck. Tha ks for the video
Pulled the Hub right out of the bearing now I have a real problem
Did u end up having to pull the whole knuckle out and press them out?
@@kylemurphy3232 yes, pulled the whole thing off the exploder, then positioned over a vice. And beat with a bar and bfh
Dang man im keeping my 05 ex running as long as i can!!! 😁😁🤣🤣
They finally came out with a tool for this like a month ago and it's like $800 and it's nowhere near as efficient as what I did here
@@FordBossMe yea i like your way (pappas way) bedda!!!🤣
well we were tired killing our selves for an hour -- hour-and-a-half trying to get these things out and we had to find a better way and this work's super efficiently
Those are even harder to replace :lol:. Everything is pressed in.
Awesome! Thank you!
❤❤❤thank you so much
Right, efficient for you, but damage to the customer's vehicle because you wont take the time and care.... good method to use if working on ones own car and are find with degrading the knuckle.
You are slow
Geez, that’s ridiculous! “Come on’ “Ford!”
it is ridiculous, they should make a tool that it's more friendly on the pocket
Did not work. I had to replace whole spindle after damaging trying to split with chisel was worth a try😂
Have to still replace spindle hopefully get tomorrow. See what other surprises are entailed in that
I could have showed you
Slide hammer and penetrating oil….no drilling, no cutting, way quicker
That does not work
@Ford Boss Me I spent a full day hammering on a 2013 Durango's hub assembly before I thought I was doing the 'right' thing getting the slide hammer. Wore me, my 16 year old and 11 year old out with zero movement. 3rd day I tried this trick and it was out in no time. I might hit one that doesn't look rusted on a few times, but I'll quickly be going to this method almost every time from now on
Not in upstate ny