Nope! Not a finished project until we get to see it fly! I never had the chance to get into the 3D printing, but I can see how it saves a lot of time and effort. I did hand cut balsa patterns...
Non conosco bene le stampe 3d ma devo dire che è bellissimo anche se cosi si perde un po l artigianato ma probabilmente questo è il futuro anche se io amo l artigianato in balsa ha tutto un altro fascino d altronde il modellismo è sempre in evoluzione e sperimentazione e questa è una bella cosa complimenti x il modello non vedo l ora di vederlo volare sarà fantastico ❤❤❤❤❤❤
Beautiful 😍 I love the use of flexing CF rod to create the fuselage shape. Do you have to worry about the covering iron melting or deforming the 3DP parts?
@@pgtrots for PLA wing, it’s manageable with practice. And I use 3M77 on wing, to make the covering relatively tight before shrink. And I do “touch & go” to avoid heat build up on PLA. For fuselage, most of the covering is contacting CF rod. Less of an issue than wing.
Some very nice ideas for using the 3D printing in a way that recognizes the old style of model construction. It did a great job of keeping the character of the original. You dd a great job of adapting this to 3D printing Some of the replies below are suggesting ways to save a few grams. I understand the need for the fairly big tail piece on the fuselage to mount the stabilizer and rudder. But perhaps a few holes in the sides to save a couple of grams in the tail? Speaking of weight what is the wing span and what was the final ready to fly weight? Any idea on how much LW-PLA would save? I can see making the bulkier parts in LW-PLA but keeping the more delicate things like the ribs and fuselage formers in PLA or even PETG? A big part of the look and magic of your design is in the open look of the design.. I gather you have not flown it yet. All the best of luck for those first flights.
@@brucematthews6417 Thanks for your blessing. Yes, I’m still waiting for maiden. As for AUW is ~400g w/o battery, but I need ~80g battery to balance. Not a well balanced design at this first try. Roughly, with redesign, I think 450g is possible with PLA. With LW PLA, may be ~350g… just may be. BTW, wing span is 130cm.
Adding holes in 3d printing often doesn't save any weight because the weight of the walls is greater than the infill. I'm sure that would be the case here.
@@Geode-c3d This is the best 3d printed airframe design I've seen! With 1.3m wing span, 350g AUW is still heavier than a balsa build, but it's comparable to a foam board slow stick.
Thanks for watching. The wing loading is about 6.4 oz/ft2 with PLA for slope soaring. WIP to re-design to reduce nose weight and for LW PLA. Hopefully. AUW will be well below 15 oz to qualify for thermal.
@ Great!👍😊 Count me as one who will certainly built one, once you‘ll release it. Great fan of your work and love the Leprechaun. I’m currently woking on transferring a Bird of Time plan into .stl files …
Schöne Idee, auf jeden Fall interessant. Das Modell so aufzubauen macht wenig "Dreck" und man benötigt dafür keine extra Werkstatt - ein großer Vorteil. Holzmodelle sind da i.d.R. mit mehr Staub usw. verbunden. Aber mir fehlt ein wenig trotzdem die Begeisterung für dieses Design. Die Bespannung auf dem leicht schmelzbaren Kunststoff überzeugt mich nicht. Ich bevorzuge da doch lieber den klassischen Holzbau, jedoch mit modernen Steckverbindungen, welche der Laserschneider ermöglicht. Holz ist i.d.R. auch leichter vom Gesamtgewicht - Vor- und Nachteile gibt es aber in jeder Konstruktionsart. Zum Glück brauchen wir uns an Regeln nicht zu halten und können für uns entscheiden ob und wie wir mit modernen Methoden arbeiten und diese auch unkonventionell kombinieren!
@@ripmax333 It's doable with practice. A few key things - (1) use low temp , fast shrink rate films such as So-Lite. (2) Use 3M77 to pre-tension the film. So, only minimum heat shrink is needed, (3) "Touch and go" during glue activation & shrink, so the heat won't build up on PLA.... It's not that hard for PLA/So-Lite. LW-PLA/Doculam is a different story :-(
@@ripmax333I spray a very light coat on the structure. Only for pretension of covering. Still need to activate glue at ~90C to glue to PLA. If on covering, will look very messy. Shrink done at ~140C, so need extra caution on shrinking.
it is recommended that when a folding prop is going to be used that the nose have a radially SYMMETRICAL shape. the use of CF in the entire length of the tail boom has increased tail-heaviness in the model's dom. distribution of mass. (at least there are no servos at the tail in this design.)
Very good point. Will go through another iteration for the nose. The CF tube is very light weight (10g per 80cm). It's common for 3D printed gliders to be tail heavy due to heavy PLA tails. This will go through rework too.
CF has a superior strength to weight ratio. I think it would make a great tail if designed with a reasonably large diameter and a sufficiently thin wall.
Hi, This is sarah. Your content is quite a match with our brand's service and application scene. I would like to invite you to experience our 3DPrinting service and test our materials. May I ask about your interests? More in my bio
I don't get the point of It. Why trying to replicate something that already exist and works perfectly such as wood structures? Why making them in plastic? Nonsense.
reality check the design of a dihedral wing SHOULD include a CENTER SECTION and dihedral brace. the latter should be the 'thing' that structurally joins the wing halves.! heavy material, such as CF or arrow shaft, is NOT an ideal material to use in a model aircraft. it is recommended that clear-grained poplar dowels be purchased at a variety/hardware store. design should not result in a relative increase in the amount of outboard-located mass in a wing. this fact should be considered, when extending a main spar to the wingtips and when designing the wingtip structure. the use of single-cable linkages and sprung control surfaces on this modern model was just dumb.
For the size of spar used you are getting a lot more stiffness and total strength out of the carbon arrow shaft. If you did switch to a hardwood dowel it would need to be a larger diameter. Or you would need to totally change the style of spar construction. For the size of it and how this model will be used and given the 3D printed nature of the design? I think low cost light arrow shafts are pretty much an ideal option when all the factors are considered. Yes balsa and spruce can save you some grams. But at the cost of the simplicity of this style of build. So I'm going with the idea that you did fine with your choices.
Although I totally like 3D printers, this would be an ideal glider to build using Laser-Cut balsa.
superbe planeur bravo 👍
Nope! Not a finished project until we get to see it fly! I never had the chance to get into the 3D printing, but I can see how it saves a lot of time and effort. I did hand cut balsa patterns...
Coming … please stay tuned
So absolute amazing !
Non conosco bene le stampe 3d ma devo dire che è bellissimo anche se cosi si perde un po l artigianato ma probabilmente questo è il futuro anche se io amo l artigianato in balsa ha tutto un altro fascino d altronde il modellismo è sempre in evoluzione e sperimentazione e questa è una bella cosa complimenti x il modello non vedo l ora di vederlo volare sarà fantastico ❤❤❤❤❤❤
Nice job! It is so pretty.
Thank you! 😊
Nice work. Eager to build one !
Lovely - subscribed!
Welcome aboard!
Lovely!
Great work! love it 🎉
Thank you! Cheers!
Lovely design. I would like to build a Grauper Dandy at some stage in the future. That was my first RC model.
Yeah, the '70s, what an era...
Beautiful 😍
I love the use of flexing CF rod to create the fuselage shape. Do you have to worry about the covering iron melting or deforming the 3DP parts?
@@pgtrots for PLA wing, it’s manageable with practice. And I use 3M77 on wing, to make the covering relatively tight before shrink. And I do “touch & go” to avoid heat build up on PLA. For fuselage, most of the covering is contacting CF rod. Less of an issue than wing.
Hi . Very nice work !! I have a Leprechaun 2600mm at home and I like this little one too :-D . When will the STL be available for download ?
Not sure yet …
What was the total printing time for all 3D parts?
Total print time is 29 hours including wing jigs
starting from now, i will be using this video instead of sleeping pills.
😴
Prints on my Bambu Lab A1 Combo? Not sure if the X1 has the same plate size? Cool! Thanks. Laurie. NZ. 😊
It does!
Very interesting project. It would be nice to share the files if possible
WIP, stay tuned ❤
Some very nice ideas for using the 3D printing in a way that recognizes the old style of model construction. It did a great job of keeping the character of the original. You dd a great job of adapting this to 3D printing Some of the replies below are suggesting ways to save a few grams. I understand the need for the fairly big tail piece on the fuselage to mount the stabilizer and rudder. But perhaps a few holes in the sides to save a couple of grams in the tail? Speaking of weight what is the wing span and what was the final ready to fly weight? Any idea on how much LW-PLA would save? I can see making the bulkier parts in LW-PLA but keeping the more delicate things like the ribs and fuselage formers in PLA or even PETG? A big part of the look and magic of your design is in the open look of the design.. I gather you have not flown it yet. All the best of luck for those first flights.
@@brucematthews6417 Thanks for your blessing. Yes, I’m still waiting for maiden. As for AUW is ~400g w/o battery, but I need ~80g battery to balance. Not a well balanced design at this first try. Roughly, with redesign, I think 450g is possible with PLA. With LW PLA, may be ~350g… just may be. BTW, wing span is 130cm.
@@brucematthews6417 sorry, used the wrong account to reply
Adding holes in 3d printing often doesn't save any weight because the weight of the walls is greater than the infill. I'm sure that would be the case here.
@@Geode-c3d This is the best 3d printed airframe design I've seen! With 1.3m wing span, 350g AUW is still heavier than a balsa build, but it's comparable to a foam board slow stick.
What's the weight of the wing?
Very nice design! Where can I download the STLs?
Thanks for your interest. Will go through another iteration before release. Thanks
Beautiful design excice ! What is its wing loading ? Is this a model designed for flying thermic or slope?
Thanks for watching. The wing loading is about 6.4 oz/ft2 with PLA for slope soaring. WIP to re-design to reduce nose weight and for LW PLA. Hopefully. AUW will be well below 15 oz to qualify for thermal.
@@geode_rc Except for a conversion error, 18.3gr/dm2 this is very good for thermal flying.
@@Orchidsloverthank you ! there is room to cut more weight in tail feathers or nose weight. LW PLA could help too.
Hiya, are you planning to make the print files available?
@@michaelschmitz2392 yes, that’s the plan. Will take time for another major overhaul though.
@ Great!👍😊 Count me as one who will certainly built one, once you‘ll release it. Great fan of your work and love the Leprechaun. I’m currently woking on transferring a Bird of Time plan into .stl files …
Great. Thanks for you interest👍
Will check the build on rcgroups, but what covering material is this? Laurie. NZ 😊
So-lite or something equivalent
Is it possible to purchase the STL files?
WIP, will need another iteration before release. Stay tuned. Thanks 🙏
дякую, дякую, дякую
It´s possible to share this?
That’s the plan. Will go through another iteration of optimization/rework before release. Thanks for you interest
Schöne Idee, auf jeden Fall interessant. Das Modell so aufzubauen macht wenig "Dreck" und man benötigt dafür keine extra Werkstatt - ein großer Vorteil. Holzmodelle sind da i.d.R. mit mehr Staub usw. verbunden. Aber mir fehlt ein wenig trotzdem die Begeisterung für dieses Design. Die Bespannung auf dem leicht schmelzbaren Kunststoff überzeugt mich nicht. Ich bevorzuge da doch lieber den klassischen Holzbau, jedoch mit modernen Steckverbindungen, welche der Laserschneider ermöglicht. Holz ist i.d.R. auch leichter vom Gesamtgewicht - Vor- und Nachteile gibt es aber in jeder Konstruktionsart. Zum Glück brauchen wir uns an Regeln nicht zu halten und können für uns entscheiden ob und wie wir mit modernen Methoden arbeiten und diese auch unkonventionell kombinieren!
👍
What filament did you used?
PLA Pro for this print. LW - PLA in the future.
I can't believe you managed to cover it, Pla doesn't like heat at all😮
@@ripmax333 It's doable with practice. A few key things - (1) use low temp , fast shrink rate films such as So-Lite. (2) Use 3M77 to pre-tension the film. So, only minimum heat shrink is needed, (3) "Touch and go" during glue activation & shrink, so the heat won't build up on PLA.... It's not that hard for PLA/So-Lite. LW-PLA/Doculam is a different story :-(
@@geode_rc you sprat 3M77 on the structure and then apply the film? Or you spark the 3M77 on the film and then apply it on the structure?
@@ripmax333I spray a very light coat on the structure. Only for pretension of covering. Still need to activate glue at ~90C to glue to PLA. If on covering, will look very messy. Shrink done at ~140C, so need extra caution on shrinking.
it is recommended that when a folding prop is going to be used that the nose have a radially SYMMETRICAL shape. the use of CF in the entire length of the tail boom has increased tail-heaviness in the model's dom. distribution of mass. (at least there are no servos at the tail in this design.)
Very good point. Will go through another iteration for the nose. The CF tube is very light weight (10g per 80cm). It's common for 3D printed gliders to be tail heavy due to heavy PLA tails. This will go through rework too.
CF has a superior strength to weight ratio. I think it would make a great tail if designed with a reasonably large diameter and a sufficiently thin wall.
Hi, This is sarah. Your content is quite a match with our brand's service and application scene. I would like to invite you to experience our 3DPrinting service and test our materials. May I ask about your interests? More in my bio
I don't get the point of It. Why trying to replicate something that already exist and works perfectly such as wood structures? Why making them in plastic? Nonsense.
Stay tuned …. Next one will be “Carbon” Clurichaun 😄
reality check the design of a dihedral wing SHOULD include a CENTER SECTION and dihedral brace. the latter should be the 'thing' that structurally joins the wing halves.!
heavy material, such as CF or arrow shaft, is NOT an ideal material to use in a model aircraft. it is recommended that clear-grained poplar dowels be purchased at a variety/hardware store.
design should not result in a relative increase in the amount of outboard-located mass in a wing. this fact should be considered, when extending a main spar to the wingtips and when designing the wingtip structure.
the use of single-cable linkages and sprung control surfaces on this modern model was just dumb.
Thanks, those are very good points. And yes, there are 4 CF rods as "joiner" to connect the beefy root section together.
May I know your poplar weight per unit length?
For the size of spar used you are getting a lot more stiffness and total strength out of the carbon arrow shaft. If you did switch to a hardwood dowel it would need to be a larger diameter. Or you would need to totally change the style of spar construction. For the size of it and how this model will be used and given the 3D printed nature of the design? I think low cost light arrow shafts are pretty much an ideal option when all the factors are considered. Yes balsa and spruce can save you some grams. But at the cost of the simplicity of this style of build. So I'm going with the idea that you did fine with your choices.