How to Frame a Room: Part 3 - How to Frame Soffits and Closets
Вставка
- Опубліковано 22 сер 2024
- Learn how to frame closets and soffits for your home or business. Check out the diagrams and layouts for this video and others at www.diynils.com.
This video is part 3 in the framing video series. Part 1 covers how to frame a wall and part 2 covers how to frame windows and doors.
Part 1: • How to Frame: Part 1 -...
Part 2: • How to Frame a Room: P...
Do you have comments or suggestions? Let me hear about it so we can make this and other videos even better. I'm always looking for ways to learn to do these projects more efficiently.
Always wear safety gear when working with tools and lumber. I recommend both eye and ear protection as well as gloves for working with framing.
PRODUCTS IN THIS VIDEO (These are Amazon Affiliate Links, which help me out but don't cost you any more):
• 21° Framing Nailer: amzn.to/2SI5nE6
• 3" Framin Nails: amzn.to/2H0rkwY (these are cheaper when bought locally due to their weight/cost ratio)
• Speed Square: amzn.to/2RCfz3R
• 1" Auger Drill Bit: amzn.to/2Rh8hmM
• Powerful Dewalt 8 Amp Drill: amzn.to/2SEvtI8
• My Tape Measure of Choice (Stanley FatMax 30'): amzn.to/2sd1ADc
• Ramset Concrete Nail Gun: amzn.to/2RdTlFW
• 3" Concrete Nails: amzn.to/2VBlDsA
• .22 Caliber Ramset Load for Ramset Gun: amzn.to/2SHfid7
![[UA] Team Vitality проти NAVI | IEM Cologne 2024](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/wttO1zVRTC0/mqdefault.jpg)
Ladder "hook" is a great idea. Thanks. I just bought a new home with a studded basement - need to do the soffits so this was very helpful.
Awesome! Best of luck with the build!
great tip on the wood hook. helped me with two 8 foot soffit ladders since it was just me. thanks!
Hey thanks for the video, I got quoted 50g to finish my unfinished basement. With this video I can try to do it myself. Thx I will let you know how it goes
That hook idea is very helpful, I have to put up a ladder to cover a beam and it is 2 12' 2x4s with bracing, very heavy for one guy to lift and hold.
Great vid!
Tip. Usually when a fella is framing a closet you just frame it up with a whole bottom plate in tact. Same as a door frame so when a guy installs it the frame stays square with everything then nail it all into
Place and then once secure , cut out the bottom plate between frame.
If you do it the way you’ve shown, you risk possibly things not staying square then when you go to install the doors , it can sometimes bite ya
Great tutorial , not wrong or right... just worth a mention
i know it is kinda randomly asking but do anybody know a good site to stream new tv shows online?
@Jude Joseph Flixportal =)
@London Jadiel Thanks, I signed up and it seems like they got a lot of movies there =) I appreciate it !!
@Jude Joseph you are welcome =)
Great video 👍 exactly what you look for in a diy video. This is going to help me a ton. Thanks!
really, really useful. that hook tip is worth money. Way to go Nils.
Great video - I'm ready to start work on my basement - Thanks
Terrific production-first of all, here are my takes on basics-the audio quality is excellent. Lighting, filming, framing of vid picture and clarity all very excellent. (nice to have good, stabilized videos without hearing babies crying, dogs barking or distorted audio) Effects- fast motion and highlighting were done beautifully. Now to the subject: yes, hook suggestion, ripping 2x4 for piece on wall and staggering joints are great tips-thank you. Question- on the nail sizes, you mentioned 16d for ladder but what size for toe nailing would you suggest? Also, in my case, I was also looking for information/instructions on adding vent grills to those ducts. Thanks for your nice videos, Harry
Just curious why you used headers on the closet when the wall is obviously not load bearing. It seems simple 2x4 headers would be sufficient. Is this code where you live?
I appreciate that you also work in Keens....
Love your framing videos, learned a lot, but it’s Level for horizontal, Plumb for vertical. Most of the time I think we are looking for our walls to be Plumb.
Waoooo, same like my job.... cool
why do you need the 1/2 inch spacer in between the header? Good video thanks
Thanks for the helpful video. I'll eat my keyboard if you're not from Utah though haha.
You'd better leave that keyboard alone :) I grew up in New England but have lived in Utah most of my adult life.
@@LRN2DIY Right on! I'm in Utah myself. That's how I could tell! Haha. :)
Great video! I did want to say that the closet door rough opening should be 2" bigger than the actual door size that you are installing...so the 72" door(6'-0")your using should have a framed width rough opening of 74" for the door to fit into the framed opening properly.
Eddie
Thanks for the tip, Eddie!
nice video , well put together
another excellent video. love the hook ! You are the man !
Try GREG gig pocket holes if have not tried already. You've got some decent stuff to show to the world. Keep going....
Oh! Thank you 84blog.
Very good job friend
Nils your video is really good. Coud you give a list of the timber dimension combinations in your closet construction please. Especially for the two pieces of header timber that are wedged apart. Thanks..?
how did you frame on the backside of the duct work? Is that a frame that goes up to the ceiling joist?
Typically, yes. You frame to the ceiling wherever possible. There is usually enough room, even behind pipe work to go to the ceiling, then you can attach your soffit to that wall.
@@LRN2DIY Thanks I assumed so but wanted to make sure before I begin this journey!
Great educational video.Thank You
Awesome video thank you. May I ask what size nails were you using? And were they smooth or Galvanized? Be in the basement where I'm. Working.
Great videos. One suggestion - use coarse screws for that hook. FWIW, you've got the same first name as my dad. Heja Sverige!
Use a 2x2 for bottom plate of ladder. Stop messing around with that toenailing malarkey. You can lay the rungs flat to accommodate the dimension.
More videos please... you are awesome.
Look at 7:25 in the video. I've got a metal ibeam in my basement down the center with metal supports spaced throughout underneath. My ductwork is on the side where I want to build a new bedroom. I am having trouble with figuring out how to design a wall and soffit that will use the least amount of material, be plenty strong, and have the most amount of headroom. I've been struggling with this for a while in my mind. Could you post another video showing how you handled the door under that soffit? My main focus is on handling the measurements and framing around the door underneath that ibeam and also allow enough room to mount the soffit. How did you attach the soffit to the wall by the door?
I am renovating a 136 yr old downtown building. The interior plaster over old brick walls are not so stable to attach much. So I’m erecting 9’ walls along the parameter of the 22’ X 65’ room that has 14’ ceilings. My intent is to have a 2’ soffit around the room at 8’ high with suspended ceiling track on the inside spanning the remaining 18’ at 9’ high. My question: How can I build soffit boxes strong enough to support such a suspending ceiling perimeter (and 18 to 24 2x4 drop in lights) without ceiling joists to attach the box to? It will only be attached to the erected 2x4 mostly freestanding wall.
The star wars framer, u should be framing the death star. All jokes aside awesome video
The Death Star is on my list for sure ;) Thanks for watching.
Is there a reason you don't just nail the bottom rungs of the soffit on through the ends? Is it because the nails aren't long enough?
Great question. You're correct that the nails aren't long enough. The nails are typically around 3" and the sideways studs are 3 1/2", so they wouldn't even make it through. Toe nailing is the best option here.
Using a 2x2 on the bottom of the ladder can alleviate that problem. And it decreases cost , but always make sure your lumber is as straight as possible.
Awesome vids man! Question - the HVAC guys put a supply line/vent up against my wall (attached to the ceiling below the joists) just above the window. How do I frame the window wall with that in the way?
You have nice ideas
Why didn’t you put all the videos for basement finish
you look like you been cgi'd into these videos lol. very informative btw. great job
Can you do soffitt framing with 2 x 3s or even 1 x 2s?
WOULDN'T SLIDING DOORS BE BETTER.!.?
That’s always an option. I just didn’t want to deal with tracks and only being able to open half the closet at a time.
Should I use the longest possible 2X4s for my soffits or break it down using 8 footers? Just thinking that it's harder to tell if the 16 ft 2x4s are straight or not
Great question. I'd stick with as long a length as you can identify as being straight. Another tip is if you're running a longer soffit, build your ladder by staggering the sides (the 8' or 16' lengths). For example, start with a 4' rail on one side and an 8' on the other, then add 8' runs to each side until your desired length. It's the same principle as roofing, sheathing or anything else where you don't want a weak line. Hope that helps!
I couldn’t find any videos in your collection about HVAC for finishing basements. Do you have plans for that in the future?
I did film it but I can't decide if it's worth uploading because I'm missing some of the footage. In any case, it's on my list so I'll likely release it at some point.
Thanks my friend is trying to hide a crack in her ceiling could she make a soffit with lights ?
That’s certainly an option, yes. Sounds like it would be easier to just address the crack but a soffit is an option.
great vid, but where are all the fire stops?
I'm framing with 2x3. Could I still use 24" on Centre ?
How tall is it from the floor the the bottom of your soffit?? Just curious, I’m about to do my basement and I’m worried about how low my ceiling will be after I build the soffits. Thanks
How much space do you leave between bottoms of soffit and furnace ducts? Or how much space to you leave on a sidewall next to furnace ducts?
I don't believe it's required to leave any space between duct work and soffit but you should always check the code in your area to verify. Same with furnace ducts.
thanks, Nils. You're slightly ahead of me....I assume you need to fire block, too? or already did with putting the top plates up? been a while since I watched the first videos.
+bryanmcdermott77 Good to hear from you. Yes, the fire block was part of the first video and went above the top plates. It really only applies to exterior walls though. I just finished doing my electrical work so I'll try to get videos up for that in the next couple of weeks.
Are you planning on putting another layer of insulation in your new stud walls? If so.... then you'll probably be putting on more vapor barrier. You will need to put a long cut in all your first layer of vapor barrier first.
hey Nils, when we gonna see videos of HVAC and Electrical. I got my framing almost done. I hope you putting out HVAC and Electrical soon.
+liem nguyen Hey Liem - I have them filmed and will try to get them out in the next couple of weeks. Been working on drywall and it's consuming all my time :)
oh nice, i like to see videos of that too. :)
Nils do you have to add any fire stops on the exterior walls and at the ceiling
That all depends on your area. You'll want to check with your city. In my case, they were only required on the ceilings but that may be different where you are.
Useful video sir! Do u have course for it?
You are quite a talented young man. But please explain yourself better because we do not know what you mean by the hook that you used to hold up your soffit - it would have been better to perhaps show us in the video. Thank you for doing this - no doubt, I am one of your new subscriptions.
Look at 6:37. Its basically a temporary 2x4 he attached off the ceiling to hold his soffit on 1 side while he attaches the other said. The hook is more of a 1 man task tool, if you have help it wont really be necessary.
Thanks Nils! Do you think that 24" centers will support the drywall on the bottom side of the soffit? Will you see any sagging? I suppose it depends on whehter you are going to use 1/2" or 5/8" drywall.
+Steve Grimes Great question. I have finished drywalling my basement and I think the 24" is just fine in this application. If I had a wider soffit, I would likely go to 16" OC but as long as your tacking it every 2' and joining sheets on a stud, it seems to hold up just great. I did use 1/2" (not 5/8") as well.
as long as the framing solid it will not be an issue with a 2foot on center, Drywall screws are getting tacked every 8" or so.. 2' On center is not over span for this
What software did you use to show us the wall before you built it. 2 minutes mark? Thanks
Why no double top plate on your walls?
Hey Nils so do I use 2x2 for the cross members cuz it looks like you used 2x4s in gen. I wanted to know if I can just use 2x2s for the ducts and pipes. So as a top and bottom and crossmembers 2x2. That can do right? please let me know
2x2s should work, yes, and they'll also minimize the size of the soffit, which is nice. I chose to do 2x4s because of structural stability. Driving nails into 2x2s increases the chances of splitting and gives you less room to work with as far as driving 2 nails in but it can be done.
Is there a reason why your soffit rungs are spaced at 24 inches off center when your wall studs are 16 inches off center?
Dave because they don't need to be as strong. They only need to support thrmselves.
Thank you Jacob.
Jacob Zimmerman that's right
Hello! Loved the video and I am remodeling a basement and I had a quick question about the soffit. So towards the end of the soffit, when it butts up against the wall, I was curious as to if when the drywall goes up on the wall, is there really any support for the drywall around where the soffit is (seen starting at 6:35) , since there is no edge to screw the drywall to? I do suppose that the distance may not be too much of an issue for drywall but if there is too much of a gap, when the drywall is hung, the unsupported edge may crack over time or if pressure was applied to it. In the video there isn't that much unsupported area by the window and where the drywall would go around the soffit, but sometimes the soffits vertical edge may cover a stud, leaving a vertical gap that has no support since the nearest stud may be another 15 inches away. To get around this, would it be beneficial to install the soffits after hanging the drywall and before mudding it, so the drywall is supported as normal along the edges and such, or even better to install some backing around the soffit area? Or maybe not even stress about it at all? Anyways, love the video, found it very helpful, and hope you'll be able to help me with my question! Thanks!
Good question. I wouldn't recommend drywalling before doing soffits because it's kind of a pain to switch work flows like that. If after putting in soffits you see that there is a larger unsupported area of wall, blocking is the way to go, like you mentioned. This can happen in corners of a room as well (not talking about soffits) and adding blocking is sometimes necessary. Always better to be safe than sorry and it's usually not hard to add a few blocks or even an additional stud. Hope that helps!
DIY Nils mn
A
Question, I need to frame a kitchen to install drywall on a home with exposed beams and no attic. I can't place the drywall directly to the rafters because There's duct work and conduit running beneath an old drop ceiling. Would it be strong enough to frame it up the exact same way as you've done these soffits?
If you're referring to the strength necessary to hold up the ceiling and be secure, then yes. If you want some additional peace of mind, try using screws instead of nails for the soffits.
why 24 on center instead of 16
how to you make sure your "Ladder" is straight from one end of the room to the other to nail up. do you pull a measurement from one of the walls?
You can, but that assumes that the other walls are all straight too. It's important to choose straight studs for your ladders and then, if you're at all concerned about it remaining straight, snap a chalk line of where it is supposed to go, then follow that line when hanging it.
Too much talk with with too fast camera work. Slow it down please for us to see the process more carefully.
Hi Nils-what would you do if your wall runs parallel and inbetween the ceiling joist?
If you mean that the top of the wall runs in between two joists so there's nothing to attach it to, you can just place cross-beams between the joists, every two feet or so, then attach the top of the wall to the cross-beams. You can see this in my first video since that's how the wall I framed was situated. If I misunderstood the question just let me know.
Why 24” centers? Why not 16” like walls?
luv the videos but i noticed that you dont cut your top plate over a stud... why?
Honestly I hadn't even thought about it. I will add a note to the video recommending this - makes perfect sense. For what it's worth, in my other longer walls, I ended up just joining the two top plates together with a much 2 ft stud underneath, then I cut the stud on that one a bit shorter to accommodate. That kept the walls much stronger than the way I did it in this video.
Is a 2x6 header even needed? It's not a load bearing wall so couldn't you just use a 2x4 laid flat for drywall? Same thing for part two with the window header.
+Mark Wiles Great question, Mark. I had looked this up and found lots of conflicting answers. I couldn't find that specific answer in my city's code either. Do you have any documentation to help us out with this? I'd love to clarify in the video if only 2x4s are required.
+Nils Rasmusson Going to depend on your code of course. For example:
R602.7.3 Nonbearing walls.
Load-bearing headers are not required in interior or exterior nonbearing walls. A single flat 2-inch by 4-inch (51 mm by 102 mm) member may be used as a header in interior or exterior nonbearing walls for openings up to 8 feet (2438 mm) in width if the vertical distance to the parallel nailing surface above is not more than 24 inches (610 mm). For such nonbearing headers, no cripples or blocking are required above the header.
+Mark Wiles Not needed! Not load bearing...not needed. You do not need structural headers, header-jack-studs, cripplers, etc...if you are in a basement and just building what's called "curtain walls". Curtain walls are not load bearing wall, and do not need any structural framing at all. This non-load bearing framing is code in all areas! Save your time and effort.
Eddie
Hi nils... I have rented a house and the wall in my room is very very cold I think it is a cavity wall and isn't insulated. Could you advice on how can I fix it? I can't afford the wall foaming etc, is there any diy which I can do from the inside to make the room warm?? Please let me know. Thank you
Hi Dure, That's a tough one. If you're not able to do a spray insulation you'd have to look into a space heater most likely. Another option is to place foam insulation panels on the wall but they're not pretty. You can purchase 1-3" thick insulation panels that would help but, again, not sure if you'd love the look. I would definitely talk to the landlord and see if they'd be willing to help out. Best of luck!
how about them videos? 🤔😂😉 oh Hey Nils 👋
Yeah, I've been a slacker. I've recorded the footage for about ten videos but haven't gotten to editing them together yet. They're coming, I promise :)
Why in the world have you put in a header on a non bearing wall???
Allan Madvark cause there will be door there
I didn't put headers on my non load bearing walls, where I framed doors. It passes code. It's doesn't need to support weight, other than drywall, and the pre-hung door. And standard 2x4 framing with just a 2x4 cross member is sufficient, in my opinion.
Yeah you really dont need a header there, looks pretty tho ;)
Stodoys is nice for that.
You may go to WoodPrix website if you'd like to make it yourself guys.
TOO FAST for a beginner