Makita Guide Rail Tips: Trimming Splinter-guard & Bonus Tip
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- Опубліковано 1 січ 2019
- --== The jig featured in the video is now available to buy. See the link below ==--
In this video I answer the most common question I'm asked: How do I trim the splinter guard on a new guide rail. Also I include a bonus tip as to how a simple jig I made allows me to make accurate waste-side cuts with the guide rail and track saw.
You can buy replacement splinter-guard rubber in 3m rolls from Axminster Tools and Machinery, amongst other online sellers.
www.axminster.co.uk/makita-sp...
The 1000mm (1m) Guide Rail is available from Amazon (UK):
amzn.to/2RqRCfS
The Makita SP6000J (230v) plunge saw you see in the video is also from Amazon:
amzn.to/2RrJs6Q
The 3D printed jigs featured are now available for sale with free postage within the UK and flat-rate charge for most places worldwide. Since making the video the jig has been updated with rounded corners, made slightly wider to make it more stable under the rail and with a taller centre ridge which means a more accurate representation of the 2.2mm saw kerf. You can buy from two places:
The Strawbyte Workshop Website:
www.strawbyte.com/merchandise...
Etsy:
www.etsy.com/uk/listing/65826...
AMZN: * As an Amazon Associate, I earn from qualifying purchases made through these links.
Wherever possible links are to actual products used, but this is not always possible, for example some products are not available outside the UK in which case I have selected something similar. - Навчання та стиль
![Tricky Tracksaw Cuts [video 460]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/ybSSZ5R31aI/mqdefault.jpg)
Nice jig
Can you post the link to buy them
Cheers
Sure. I'll pop a link in the description when I get home from work.
I've updated the description to include links to my website and Etsy where you can buy a pair of jigs.
What a simple but important short video, I got a new track saw and tracks so this was invaluable and the kerf jigs are a brilliant idea and invention.
Cheer's
Thanks for the comment. And yes the guides idea has proven popular and turned me into a tool-making business!
I've just tried the jigs👍 I must say the jigs make it so easy using my rail 👍and excellent postage. Many thanks Karl.
I'm so pleased they arrived. And it's my pleasure. K
Thank you for your support will catch up with your vids soon like this one clean and precise
Thank-you for your kind comment. Much appreciated.
Hi Carl.... I'm a Wood Working You Tube Junky... Always looking to learn something new and each morning with my coffee I watch several Wood Working You Tubes. I'm a new Track Saw owner of a Makita SP6000J... while watching Peter Millard he mentioned the Strawbyte Waste Side Jig... what a brilliant jig I will be sure to purchase one. I'm making a sewing desk for my wife, the desk top will be of Cherry, the carcass painted shaker style and I plan to do most of the work with the Track Saw and minimal with my Job Site table saw. So glad that I ran across your You Tube through Peter... I'm from across the Pond in New England and have many friends in Ipswich and have visited a number of times. Well, keep up the good work great videos... I'll be watching!
Hey Bob - Peter has been a really good friend over the last few years championing my idea and showing off it's potential in a track-saw based workshop. I had a much smaller workshop than now and the little guides were a handy way of avoiding having to turn pieces around to cut the 'right way'. I'd love to know where you are in New England my Day Job is with National Grid and travel to New England and upstate New York regularly. Anyway thanks for the comment and encouragement. Karl
@@StrawbyteWorkshop Hi Karl... I'm amazed at how many "You Tubers" have small workshops, I'm in that same category and I'm always looking to find ways to work in new ways with what I have. The Track Saw for small shops is ideal and any jig like the Waste Side Jig can save time and make a project move much quicker I'm for all the way. I tell my wife all the time "It's all about the tools." that's what makes a project not only saves time, but curtails woodworkers frustration in the shop. A simple tool can do that, I have to hand it to you... a 3d printer and an idea insuring accurate cuts with a track saw... just Brilliant. Well, I'm just North of Boston about 30 miles... small town "Rowley" pronounced "Raleigh" we were founded by a fellow from Yorkshire that's the only reason I have come up with why??? I see that my order is in good hands on the way in the Royal Mail... Good being in contact and I enjoy your videos... when the Waste Side Jig gets here I'll let you know how it works out for me and I'm sure it will! Thanks again... Bob
Great video man, i'm so glad i found your channel. I saw you have some ther good videos. I will hit that red button and follow you from now on because i think you are worth following
Hey, good to have you aboard. Thanks for the comment.
@@StrawbyteWorkshop You are welcome my friend, keep making these great videos!
You have a great voice for radio 🤓
Thanks for the comment Paul. Strange you should say that as I get that comment a lot. I also get asked to read bedtime stories for friends and family’s children. The kids love it and they’re asleep in minutes.
Yes I did see you move the piece and it made me concentrate even more to see what happened next! I have just ordered the red spacer and this morning realised that when l bought the saw l fitted a Makita 56 tooth coated blade that’s only 1.45mm thick! Anyway I’ll keep the spacer for future. Incidentally this blade gives a super clean cut if you’re interested. Cheers.
I'm just in the process of making the 1.45 version for the new efficut blades, if you don't mind waiting a day I can get these out to you instead of the 1.6mm.
To be honest while I'm rather pleased I've managed to figure out how to make them that narrow, there's very little difference between the two in practice. 0.15mm is a very tiny difference. compared to the width of the pencil mark.
Your order is on its way. New 1.45mm versions.
Thank you for the tips. I've got one as well, you can remove the current splinter guard & simply re-adhere it so that it can be used multiple times. Saw the hack somewhere here in UA-camland.
Thanks again.
You're absolutely right, something I do myself. And thanks for leaving a comment.
Just received my jigs from You, I've seen them on Peter Millard's YT channel, haven't tried them yet but surely they work fine. Greetings from Tenerife
I'm really pleased they've arrived. Tenerife is one of my favourite places to visit and it's nice to have a pin in my map for there.
Everyone with a track saw should have a set of the Waste side jigs for the size of their blades. No Exceptions. Had mine for 3 years now and they are perfect for getting waist side cuts perfect. Even my wife thinks they are a great idea.
Thanks so much for the comment Warren.
Review would be great saving to get one my self
Sure thing and thanks for watching.
great, thanks for the video
You're welcome.
Ahhhh, so you’re the guy I just ordered a few bits from. Nice to out a face to the name.
I am. And thank-you. I'll be getting them out to you as soon as I can.
@@StrawbyteWorkshop No worries. Thanks.
Really nice video and smart idea for spacers. I have always used a packer on the edge of my rail and then measured. I need to find someone with a 3d printer as they are far better. Thanks for posting
Cheers. Thanks for watching.
hi nice video nice too see you back
Thanks. I'm trying for one video per week.
yes seen that did not like too say lol
Thanks - super helpful... wasn't sure whether that splinter guard was intended to be "self trimmed" this way.
It's a little confusing and worth a short video, I thought. Thanks for the comment.
Nice video! Don't you get the rubber cut again when cutting bevels? I don't know how to make bevel cuts without damaging the rubber splinter guard.
I like your tip
Thanks for watching.
Did you see how after I carefully set-up my cut with the jig I moved the work and blew the shot! Anyway missed that in the edit.
👍
And fingers under cut edge....had to close my eyes
You need to mention the cam locking adjusters that govern how tight the saw runs in the track. If these are sloppy when cutting your splinter guard the first time, it won’t be accurate.
Good point. Thank-you.
100 percent,I’ve never seen a video where anyone mentions this, I didn’t lock the cams and have to buy a new rubber now
Another difficulty is at the beginning and the end of the guide rail, where the first or the last locking cam runs out of the rail. This makes the saw a little bit wobbly at these points, and thus causes some deviation. I'm puzzled
@@luukdeboer1974 a friend has just got the makita plunge saw, (I have a Bosch and mafell) when we went to trim the splinter guard for the first time I told him about adjusting the cam locks so it doesn’t wobble but we had the same problem you can’t plunge the saw far enough on the rail to cut all of the splinter guard without it coming off the cam locks and cutting wonky, what a terrible design by makita when I took it off to have a look there are two square bits in the groove on the saw which I think is causing the issue
@@molley17 what about Bosch and Mafell? Do they have a better design?
As a DIY person one of the reason I just got a plunge saw was, because I was told you don't need to account for anything. you just align the track using the splinter guard on your cut line and cut. 🤣 That's why I'm here.
So now I know you still have to account for the blade thickness.
To be very clear, when you align the splinter guard to the line, the part which is under the rail will be sized to the mark and the blade thickness is irrelevant. However if you're making narrow rip cuts, or it's too awkward to make the cut in that way (a problem in small spaces like mine) you may want to keep the part on the outside of the rail and that's where taking account of the blade kerf is important.
Anyway thanks for watching and your comment. I really appreciate it.
Good watch karl I don't own a track saw but if I ever do I know what video to watch thanks
Thanks Warren I appreciate the comment.
Just got the chorded one for xmas. Would love to know where u went for the dust collecting hose??
Hey there Lawrence. I love the fact that questions like this make me watch my videos again. Anyway, the hose is the standard hose that came with my Nilfisk Aero 26 shop vac. The vac is amazing and I'm surprised I've not done a review on it on the channel, but it's tool adapter is probably one of the best I've come across supplied with the vac. It's a flexible rubber nozzel which fits the saw perfectly (and other tools as well I might add). If you have a standard vac in your shop you can upgrade a hose with a custom adapter that my friend Matt Smith from the Badger Workshop featured in his review of the Axminster/Numatic NV750 vacuum a few months ago. A link to the adapters on Amazon is here: amzn.to/2ZWxHHz
Thanks for watching. Karl.
Ive just bought a new 36V saw with 3M rail. The longest piece of flat board I have is a 1200x2400x12mm piece of MDF. So its not quite long enough to lay the new rail on and cut the splinter guard in one go. Will I be alright to stop near the end of the board and then slide the rail back and continue the cut to the end of the rail? Or should I try and lay another piece of mdf butted up against the other and try it in one continuous cut? I was going to do it on tresells as I don't really have a large enough piece of flat concrete to do it on in my yard which makes using two boards impossible.
So long as the saw is tight on the rail, staring and Stopping should be fine. In my experience.
I've ordered two sets of jigs.
Hey there - indeed you have. They'll be on their way shortly. Enjoy.
I like the waste side jigs - as you have a 3d printer why did you not make them to fit over your combi square?
That's a good point, I have toyed with a version 2 but these work quite well and take no time at all to print. Let's see, thanks for watching.
Hi Karl. Please help !!!
I'm on the verge of buying EITHER a corded makita tracksaw OR the brushless 18V makita circular saw and adapter. I like the idea of the circular saw with the adapter but I'm afraid it won't be as accurate as the plunge saw. Why did you buy a tracksaw when you already had the circular saw and adapter?
Thanks
Sorry for missing your comment. I bought the plunge saw because of the additional versatility you get from being able to plunge cut and the easier set-up when ripping or cross cutting. The downside is that you only have 55mm of cut (50 when on the rail) and so the circular saw is always really handy for deeper cuts - slabs and worktops for example.
Hello there, Karl, love the video and I did spot the slight error :)
Can you run through the guide tightening knobs procedure please? I have a new SP6000J and find I have to really twist down the knobs by hand to take out the slop, is this normal Karl? Just purchased you kerf guides for this saw as well as the depth gauge tab and saw dust enclosure seal on your website. All look brilliant.
Thank-you David.
The fact you didn't see me adjust the knobs in the video has been called out by other users. It's one of those things that I tend to do without thinking and in hindsight should have shown. It was a new rail afterall. Anyway I had to go and fetch out my saw and check to answer your question. On my saw around a 1/4 turn removes the slack a bit more and the saw is impossible to move on the rail. I don't think there's any excessive pressure required on mine. I hope that answers the question.
@@StrawbyteWorkshop Thank you. I suspected as much because my other less expensive saw does that, a quarter turn that is, but the SP6000J needs quite a bit. I'll contact the seller in the morning. The blue inserts might just be a bit stiff. Thanks Karl.
Is the cut of the splinter guard the same for a 45 degree bevel cut as it is for a 90 degree cut?
Yes - but always trim back the splinter guard on the 90 degree.
Do you know where the other wing screws are for?
The wing/fly screws close to the adjusting screws..
Gr, Robin
Yes - they allow you to add the rip fence to the saw when you're using it off the rail. It's not something you'll use a lot but that's what they're there for.
@@StrawbyteWorkshop
Ah alright! Thank you very much.
Thanks for the fast response and i have another question =D
What I find is that my splinter guard on the makita rail is very very close to the metal of the rail.
When i used it for the first time i snugged it down with the adjusting screws and made the first cut.
At first i was happy because there was still 1-2 mm. still left.
Now after using the saw for a few times the splinter guard seems almost trimmed against the metal, it is hardly 1 mm.
Is this normal for the makita rails? Or am i doing something wrong?
I never push hard against the saw and i always let the saw do the work.
Gr,
Robin
Thanks for a nice tutorial about this. I haven't done it yet, cause I'm a little concerned about what to do when you get to the endings and one of the guides kind of runs out. The mashine seems to get very wiggely a that point. How do you keep it straight there ? Or does it actually matters, since you should not cut that far anyway ?
Hi Søren thanks for the comment. It is a little tricky but it is possible with care. If you have two rails you can join them so on the first pass you trim the end of rail one and the beginning of rail two. And then you rejoin them with the uncut bits in the middle and do a second pass. Peter Millard has a good video on this.
But if you’ve just the one rail I wouldn’t get too hung up on a perfect trim end to end. 150mm from each end with be a section 80% of the whole length that will be perfect and if you line your marks with this part of the track your cuts will be accurate. I hope to update this video soon with tips that have come from the comments in the video. K.
Great vid and I will deffo order some of those spacers...genius. One question though, I do seem to be able to move the actual saw at the front end left to right (applying wiight) whilst In the track. Is that normal? Thanks again.
Thanks Joe - I've seen your order and they'll be on their way to you over the weekend.
A bit of movement is normally a sign that one of the knobs on the left hand side of the saw (if looking down the saw from the handle side) need to be tightened. I didn't show the adjustment of the knobs in the video but they're key to getting the saw tight on the rail but able to slide easily.
@@StrawbyteWorkshop don't rush on the postage...I'm in no panic. I'll have a look at it next it's out. I've tried turning all duals and knobs...I'm sure I'll suss it out.
Nice vid. Would be interested in a review of the plunge saw, thinking of investing 🤔
Hey there. I've got the review filmed. You'll see it on the channel in the next week or two. Subscribe if you haven't already and click the bell icon.
I just bought a Makita sp6000 and track, but I cannot remove the play/movement in the saw when it is set onto the track. Please help.I have adjusted some of the knobs but no improvement in reducing the play. thank you.
I didn't show the adjustment in the video but it's the two blue knobs on the base of the saw which adjusts the saw to the track. When turned it should be possible to remove all the play to the point where you cannot move the saw along the track. You would normally back-off the adjustment until the saw runs smoothly. I hope that helps. If not Makita customer services is an excellent support line and I would suggest trying there.
Yes, I see them now in Makita blue. I was told to keep track ultra clean and spray with silicone and tighten the knobs up until no play at all, otherwise risk of chewing blade into track. This is not widely known, surprisingly. So, thank you. I need to do cross cuts through 4 inch x4 inch to produce half lap joints. Any good videos on using a track saw to do do cross cut work on thick timber ? Eg a jig as it’s repetitive work. Thank you.
@@DRJMF1 I've only cut half laps in large section timber once and it's pretty easy. For accurate 1/2 laps I would suggest checking out this video: ua-cam.com/video/PF5ycsEHqlE/v-deo.html he is using a TS75 (larger than our Makitas) but the principle is the same.
I've had problems doing this because when you start and finish the saw at the ends, the saw is not completely straight as it is not in contact with the guides on the front and back of the actual saw. Is there a way to eliminate this problem?
Often I have limited time and space and 'have had problems when cutting wood down on a pallet because there are gaps and therefore the rubber is not totally supported the whole way along, what is the best surface to use without constantly wasting material? Equally, when the guide rail is used on a piece of wood which is fairly short, doesn't the blade cut into the unsupported part of the splinter guard unevenly so that the next time you go to use the guide rail and line it up with your marks, it doesn't follow the line properly/provide splinter protection consistently along the length any more?
Also, do you find that cutting angles causes the rubber splinter guard to become inaccurate for straight cuts? I've tried to set mine up so that one side is for straight cuts and the other side is dedicated to angles, but then you have the same problem every time you adjust the angle.
I agree. Nobody seems to talk about this issue. Ends of splinter guard aren't cut straight. Only thing I can think of is connecting two rails together so there is no end
Hi Shaun. I know what you mean about the splinter guard ends. Without adjustment the saw is loose on the track and the problem being the adjustment cam disengages at the end of the cut and the saw can twist slightly at the end of the cut. Joining another rail wound help but I've not tried that. As far as general, rip cuts are easy as the track lays on the board. For cross cuts I have s 4ft square peice of MDF which is sacrificial and for smaller cuts I've a bag of 9, 12, 18 and 25mm offcuts I use to support the rail. Yes it takes a little room to keep these, but I'm using the track instead of the table saw and that saves loads of space overall.
Joining two rails is the best solution (and what I wish I'd done initially), but Peter Millard demonstrated cutting a piece of MDF to match the rail's "rib" to extend it out and prevent the saw from shifting at the start of the cut.
Peter Millard also suggested that you can (gently) unstick the rubber strip, move it over, and recut it to extend the life of the strip.
@@Justin-C I've seen Peter's tracksaw series and the tip. I'm not sure that matters all that much. As far as re-using the existing strip - I wasn't all that happy with the result when I tried it and for the sake a of a few quid a new strip seems the way to go.
I also see that as a problem starting and finishing the cut.I will mark the beginning and the end on my track saw and make sure I don’t pass those marks
Hi there. I have only a circular saw and the guide rail and I could not find any proper way to trim the splinter guard ... and actually it is not clear for me how exactly did you started the cutting. At the start the saw is in the guide rail only in the front which allows its back to move slightly left/right so the start of the cut (first ~ 5 cm) won't be perfectly aligned until the whole saw base gets into the guide rail. This is maybe not a big problem with your plunge saw because it has a guide channel all the way from the front to the back.
I have a circular saw (Makita HS7601J) and the adapter for the guide rail (197005-0). This adapter has profile-guides for the guide rail only at the front and at the back. So if one wants to start the trimming from the beginning of the guide rail one has only the front of the adapter in the guide rail at start position. This allows the back to move left/right and when it arrives to the guide rail there is a slight kick at the moment when it enters the rail guide and aligns itself to it - which causes slight inaccuracy in the cut no matter how hard I tried to guide it smooth and straight.
Do you have any advice/trick to overcome this problem?
This is also a problem to use the whole range of the guide. Say one has 1 m guide and wants to make 1 m cut - so he has to start at the beginning of the guide with back of the adapter outside the guide rail ... after the start at the moment when the back of the adapter comes into the rail a slight inaccuracy happens. How could one avoid that?
Actually in the video - if you stop between 2:02 and 2:05 you will see a slight curve at the beginning of the already cut splinter - and further it goes nice and straight. The same should apply for the end when the front side of the saw leaves the guide - but this is not shown in the video.
I agree you have a problem with the guide rail adapters. Personally I wouldn't worry too much about it as the cut you make in the centre section of the rail should be long enough and accurate enough for you to align the rail to our marks with precision. Many have commented and messaged me with tips as to how to do this accurately and they all seem quite long winded and overly fussy. If you know the ends of the rail are a bit off then don't use them for alignment and with a sharp clean blade tearout should be minimal or at the very least acceptable.
@@StrawbyteWorkshopThanks for the response! ... in the meantime I did a lot of cuts with my setup (see above) . There is a slight left/right wobble in my setup - the adapter is not perfectly fixed on the guide rail and even if I start at optimal position (the whole saw body is laying on the guide-rail) there is no way to keep a perfect straight cut - there are small left/right (10ths of millimeter) wobbles so the cut is not perfect and splinter gets jagged after just 2-3 cuts - so one cannot use it as align line for the cut - not for fine cuts at least. I'm really disappointed from the adapter used in combination with the (not plunge) circular saw - it is just not useful. I ended up using the thick side of the rail guide as a cut-ruler (in this case I do not use the adapter) - I clamp the rail-guide 10 cm off the cut line (my circular-saw has exactly 10 cm distance between the cut line and the left side) and then I slide the saw along the rail-guide wall on its thick side while cutting and so I get decent cuts. The adapter (197005-0) is useless for furniture cuts - maybe it will work for rough cuts , but I still cannot imagine how one could keep the splinter clean and straight - the left/right wobble makes it jagged in no time ...
Maybe the plunge saw has more accurate slide channel and slides without wobble through the rail guide.
I'm still hoping that I do it somehow wrong and their is some trick to get it to work with my saw and adapter ...
@@sunsande I have some wobble on my sp6000 when set on its track before beginning the cut. How can I reduce the wobble ? Does the wobble matter that much ? Or when the blade enters the wood, do we expect the cutting action to stabilise the blade direction ? Thanks.
Hi again, using the Makita Sp6000 I did trial cross cuts across a row of 4x4 timbers and found smoke coming from the cut area and also dark burned wood where the cut was made. I notice that the as-received factory set blade is not 90 degrees to the saw base. Do misaligned blades produce such smoke and how can I align the blade perfectly ? Do I just contact Makita customer services, then what happens ? I found that its best to make a 25mm deep cut follow up with a second 50 mm cut, instead of attempting to cut 50mm in one pass. Do you agree that this saw works better for cut depths less than about 30mm ? Thank you, just needed someone with experience using rail saws as its my first time. Otherwise very happy with the saw and the rail by Makita.
Firstly regarding the adjustment of the blade to the base. This fairly simple and the instruction booklet explains how. There are adjustable stops in the base at either end of the base from memory.
As for burning it's a common problem with my saw and it's hard to explain the cause. I occasionally get burning if I push the saw through too hard and I definitely get burning if I don't go fast enough. Another common cause is cutting through resinous wood like pine or maple - something I find I get a lot with cheap plywood. Cutting in two passes expecially cross cuts does make sense.
@@StrawbyteWorkshop Sorry mate, but the instructions for aligning the base to the blade are not as clear as you say. The burning comes from a number of reasons. (1) The alignment is incorrect, (2) the blade is incorrect for the material and (3) maybe the cutting speed is too fast or too slow.
@@lesblack413 and you can add dirty blade to that list.
So I'm completely confused 🤔
Why would you cut off the spliter guard. ❓️
Or
Trim the splinter guard...
I'm not sure of the reason or purpose of doing this..
Hi. Yes it does appear strange that you should have to do this. But new rails are supplied with oversized splinter guards - they put a wider than needed strip on. This is so that the saw cuts a perfect reference edge in to the splinter guard when you use the rail for the first time. From then on you can use the edge you've just cut to line up against a pencil mark and make an accurate cut. This is true of all makes and the videos purpose was to bring to life the directions that all brands put in their instructions.
Is it true that 45' cutting can damage this rubber?
In my experience and on its own simply tipping the saw over to 45 degrees doesn't affect the splinter guard (rubber). Over time you will need to replace the guard and I replace mine about once a year on the longer more frequently used rails. Not adjusting the saw on the rail to remove any movement and the saw lifting from the rail on bevel cuts are bigger factors in terms of damaging the strip. In both cases the quality of the cut is poor and would bother me more. Anyway thanks for watching.
Always have issues trimming the edge as once the saw gets near the end only half of it is in the track and can move causing crooked end of splinter. Have u tried pulling up splinter and resticking back on over a bit
I know I've made the same mistake and the question has come up a couple of times by viewers. What I've said to most folk is that I'm not so concerned with the splinter guard at the ends of the rials. I know towards the middle the splinterguard is correct to the blade and it's the middle 80 percent I used to align to marks. I never look at the 4 inches at each end.
The splinter guard is easy to replace but the adhesive doesn't allow for repositioning so it's hard to correct any mistake. Like I say I ignore the ends.
@@StrawbyteWorkshop very good point prob just an OCD thing yeah I never cut to the very end, apparently moving it is easy job just needs turners tape to replace tape
Neat
Thanks.
Very much enjoyed the video. Thank You.
I just purchased a cordless makita track saw with an ultra thin kerf blade part number B 57071. The blade is marked with a notation of .063 inches. If my math is correct , that equates to 1.6mm. Do you have a waste size jig for that size blade?
Best,
Marshall
USA
Yes, check-out the link here: www.strawbyte.com/merchandise/track-saw-waste-side-cut-jig-pair-22mm-kerf-p8fzy
That is the very one. Thank you.
Order was just placed.
👍
Your welcome. And congratulations on being my 3000th customer on my website! When I made the video I didn't even think this idea was of interest to anyone but me. Who knew?
@@StrawbyteWorkshop Hi Karl,
Just getting to trimming the splinter guard. With the saw set to 3mm, after plunging and running down the track, there remains a bit of rubber along the track. I thought the rubber would be removed with the first cut? Any ideas why this occurred?
Thank you
Marshall
I meant to add the remaining rubber strip is approx 2mm in width along the edge of the track. Does that sound correct?
The 3D jigs are a great idea. You should patent it or sell them.!
I might put them on Etsy if there's a demand for them.
@@StrawbyteWorkshop Seems like you did ;)
@@julianweiser9985 Etsy has been a huge success.
Does anyone know what adapter is needed to connect this saw to a makita vacuum?
I can't help you myself. I was lucky that one of my standard hoses fitted. There's a page on Facebook called Makita Tool Talk and they'll have someone with both the saw and the vacuum and will be able to help.
@@StrawbyteWorkshop thanks, I'll check it out!
👍
Hello, the measurung tools that you are using 3,14 out in the movie. Where do you buy that? What do you name it? I will buy one like that
Hi you can buy them from my website at www.Strawbyte.com. They’re called original waste side jigs and the business is Strawbyte Workshop.
Not that tool. The one thst you are using to measure with
That’s a Bahco 150mm combination square www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B001OXDBG2/ref=cm_sw_r_as_gl_api_gl_i_S9VW5N9Q86TGVQYVRP1M?linkCode=ml2&tag=strawbyte00-21
What I really wanted to know was how do you cut the portion of rubber splinter guard at the start and end of the track. The saw needs one of the cam locking adjusters to be off the track to reach these portions. Not ideal.
You're right it's not ideal and that's probably the most frequently asked question that I receive. From suggested approaches and my own experience, there are a couple of ways of dealing with it.
1. If you have more than one rail and the joining connectors, you can start where you like and run the saw through the new splinter guard and onto the connected rail. Then move the rail to the other side and then start on the connected rail and then run the saw into new rail to complete the trim.
2. To trim the start of the splinter guard, plunge with the saw fully on the rail and draw the saw slowly backwards (climb cut) to trim back the rubber end then push through. I really don't like this suggestion since, as you say, the saw loses some of its support and there is a risk of kickback.
3. (My preference)Don't worry about it. I now line the rail to marks with the 80% of the rail in the middle which is trimmed accurately. I generally don't like finishing cuts at the end of the rail and tend to have around 100 - 150mm (4 -6 inches) of rail overhang the piece anyway. And since Makita now have a 1500mm rail even cross-cutting 1220mm sheet goods can be achieved this way with a single rail.
@@StrawbyteWorkshop If Makita designed it with three cams i.e. another in the middle, the problem would not arise and you could then use the entire track. To use, you would adjust the two outer cams then the middle cam until the tension felt equal. Not everyone has two tracks or has the space to use two.
I trimmed the ends of mine with a ruler aligned along the edge that was trimmed and cut the rest with a craft knife.
@@georgemacdonald3087 That's an approach I hadn't considered. Thanks.
@@StrawbyteWorkshop Doesn't seem right to say that only 80% of the rail (splinter guard) should be used as the extra 10% each end may not be accurate. You pay for 100%. Incidently, you cannot buy the 1000mm rail in Australia even though you can buy the bag padded bag for it.
I stand by the comment since as a rule I don’t use the very ends of a rail to align to marks and I don’t let the saw run of the end of the rain. Sorry to hear that 1000mm rail isn’t available in Oz. Makita do seem very market specific from the comments I get.
Can I use plywood instead of MDF? I don’t have any MDF.
Absolutely, in fact anything you have to had will do. It's important the splinter guard is supported from underneath when you make the cut. That way it's nice and clean.
@@StrawbyteWorkshop Thank you!
Bonjour, avez vous des jigs pour une épaisseur de lame de 2.5mm ?, je possède une scie circulaire makita et son rail et je serais intéressé par un jeu de jigs de 2.5mm et 2mm et 2.2mm. d'avance je vous remercie
Bonjour Erick Oui, je vends des jigs de 2,5 mm et des tailles de 2,0 mm et 2,2 mm. Allez sur mon site Web à: www.strawbyte.com/merchandise.
Désolé pour mon français, cela fait de nombreuses années que je n'ai pas parlé français. Au revoir. Karl
In English: Yes I do sell jigs in 2.5mm as well as 2.0mm and 2.2mm. Visit my website at strawbyte.com/merchandise. Sorry for my bad french It's been several years since I've had to write or speak french. Thank-you. Karl.
@@StrawbyteWorkshop Bonjour Karl, je vous ai fait une commande pour deux modèles, un en 2.5 et un en 2.0mm.
J'ai hâte de les recevoir. D'avance je vous remercie,
cordialement,
Could you make me a couple of the 2mm jigs?
Sure. I have 2mm jigs in the store at www.strawbyte.com they're listed as 0.079" (2.0mm). K.
Might be a daft question, but why didnt you just add 2.2 millimetres to the set square rather than a jig .
You can easily judge 2 or 2.5 mm and add that on. But 2.2 is rather precise and the guides address that. To be honest I questioned the benefit at the start of all this. What's made them popular is that they save time (small amounts which add up) when making cuts. You can measure and mark out according to the drawing and have the guides make the offset when setting down the rail. For many it's helped their workflow but they might not be for everyone.
Less chance of error too...it’s easy to forget it, or do the math wrong. Well, for me that is.
How many mm do you allow for the rail?
Hi Jesse - I'm not sure I understand the context of the question. The jig makes an allowance for the kerf of the blade from the measured mark. The rail is moved away from the line by 2.2mm.
@@StrawbyteWorkshop sorry I meant the depth so If I want to cut a 18mm thick mdf panel how many mm should I allow for the guide rail
Sorry Jesse, and earlier reply didn't manage to post correctly. To answer your question, you need to allow 5mm so for 18mm ply I tend to find a 24mm works. 18+5+1 (for luck).
You should sell the jigs not many of us have a 3d printer
Hi Michael I plan to have them on Etsy in the next day or so. Thanks for your comment.
You will have way too much side to side movement if you plunge to such a shallow depth. 2 of the 4 small contact points will be off the guide rail at each end.
Hey Don - I'm not sure I understand what you mean.
Using the battery powered Makita track saw, which I read is virtually the same as your AC model, I followed the method outlined in your video & have to buy a new splinter guard. Working in inches; the .700" wide saw base channel rides on the .620" wide track rail. Slop is taken up by the 2 round adjusters controlled from the top & directly across from them two 13/16" long .040" high cast rectangular pads. These are the only 4 points of contact. When using the shallow saw depth shown in video the blade cuts much smaller than its full diameter which is outlined by 4 hash marks on blade guard. Two of the 4 channel contact points will go off the rail at each end if using shallow depth of cut to cut full length of splinter guard. You can get away with 3 contact points once beyond center line of round contact by banking on rectangular contact but once it's off it's free to skew. After messing up splinter guard I searched for other videos & found a Festool one & noticed the saw base channel contacted full length, no raised areas. Only 2 round adjusters on 1 side controlled side play so that one could still bank on opposite wall of channel going much farther beyond rail ends.
@@Don-cs7fe Don thanks for the clarification of your point. I understand the point you've made and I haven't experienced any issues due to the saw overhanging the rail at the start and end of the cut. I've a new guide rail to trim and I'll look closely at what's going on bearing in mind your comment. The most consistent advice I've researched prior to the video is that you should trim into a sacrificial board and not leave the guard unsupported; , take out the slop with the two adjusters; and that a shallow cut is required to at least 1/2 a tooth 4-5mm (festool) or 2-3 for other rails. That was the method I was shown when I bought the tool and that's what I showed in my video.
Is your saw base plate channel similar to what I described mine to be? My splinter guard was fully supported at the ends & side by an old door. I was trimming a 55" guide rail rather than your 39" unit involving more body movement but once the saw has only 2 points of contact (1 being round) it's free to move .040" either way
Why do you want to trim this splinterquard?
The rails are supplied with an oversized splinter-guard. Once trimmed it's perfectly aligned to your saw and the blade.
Makita supply instructions how to make your first cut and I show what works for me. If you stuff-up this step, you might find it hard to use the splinter guard edge to align to your cut marks.
Nice jigs. Please do me a favor and don't hold the workpiece on the outside. It is devastatingly dangerous!
Thanks.
Hi Karl. Don't want to state the obvious, but please try to edit your videos & remove personal details
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