Ender 5 Plus Power Supply: What You Need to Know!
Вставка
- Опубліковано 3 бер 2020
- NOTE: As far as I can tell, all currently shipping Ender 5 Plus machines now come with a Meanwell 500W power supply standard! You can still use this video to verify your power supply or upgrade to the 600W, so I'm leaving it up for reference.
So you have a new Ender 5 Plus and you've heard there are some power supply issues. In this video, I take a look at why my Ender 5 Plus power supply died and what I believe is the correct way to fix it!
#Ender5Plus #MEANWELL #PSU
3D Models:
Mean Well SE-600 Power Supply Mount: www.thingiverse.com/thing:419...
Parts Links:
Mean Well SE-600-24 AC to DC Power Supply: amzn.to/32NxurB
3/4" Hole Saw: amzn.to/2IiiEzC
Assorted Grommets: amzn.to/2VG83GI
M3 x 6mm (or 5mm) Screws: amzn.to/3alMQWL
M5 T-nuts: amzn.to/3coZSVc
M5 x 10mm Screws: amzn.to/2IfC7B1
OR
Mean Well RSP-500-24 AC to DC Power Supply:
Amazon: amzn.to/3amCV39
German Amazon Link: amzn.to/2VQKn2r
Creality (Mounting Holes in Correct Locations): bit.ly/CMW500-2
Printed in FilamentOne Traffic Yellow: bit.ly/FilamentOneTY
For Amazon Links: As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases.
Other purchase links may also be affiliate links.
Related Videos:
@TH3DStudio: How-To - Ender 5 Plus PSU Replacement - MeanWell PSU - • How-To - Ender 5 Plus ...
@TripodsGarage : Don't buy a Creality Ender 5 Plus until you watch this! How to replace the cheap power supply! - • Don't buy a Creality E...
Mean Well Spec Sheets:
SE-450: www.meanwell.com/productPdf.a...
RSP-500: www.meanwell.com/productPdf.a...
SE-600: www.meanwell.com/productPdf.a...
You can support my work monthly on Patreon:
/ kerseyfabrications
You can support my work via one-time PayPal donations:
www.paypal.me/kerseyfabs
Where to find me on Social Media:
Facebook: / kerseyfabs
Instagram: / kerseyfabs
Twitter: / kerseyfabs
Contact: kris@kerseyfabrications.com
Opening Music:
------------------------------
Happy by MBB / mbbofficial
Creative Commons - Attribution-ShareAlike 3.0 Unported - CC BY-SA 3.0
Free Download / Stream: bit.ly/Happy-MBB
Music promoted by Audio Library • Happy - MBB (No Copyri...
------------------------------ - Наука та технологія
With the 450W and the hotend and bed pre-heating ours pulls about 450W on the DC side from the PSU we specced out which per Meanwell can handle up to 150% of the labeled capacity. One thing to note is that your heated bed and hotend after pre-heating will not be on 100% power during a print and that usage drops substantially. During a print the average wall draw is under 200W from the wall on the AC side. The SE-450-24 has a max efficiency of about 86% per their datasheet. Now like most switching PSUs the higher the load the less efficient the PSU is going to be.
TLDR; the 450 is a great drop in (no drilling) that the Ender 5 Plus works fine with.
Having the bed, hotend, and all the motors engaged in the E5 Plus with the SE-450-24 I'm seeing about 560W out of the wall according to my Kill-A-Watt and Battery Backup.
Lets assume that at best we're getting 80% efficiency at that load (it may even be closer to 78%), we could verify that by taking more DC measurements but I don't feel like pulling the printer apart again. That means the printer itself is pulling about 450W on the DC side during the initial heat up, which is well within the limits of the PSU. Personally ours is used every day for 20+ hour long prints 5-6 days a week and haven't had any issues for the few months we've been running the new PSU for.
We've also load tested the SE-450-24 and the overload protection kicks in at around 140% load on all the ones we tested, which means these can handle about 600W easily. Meanwell always de-rates their PSUs which is one of the many reasons I like them. The temps on the PSU never exceeded 55C on the hottest internal component per our Seek thermal cam.
The main reason for going with the SE-450-24 is cost and drop in replacement. People already are complaining about shelling out $65 for the 450 and the 450 has screw holes that line up with the stock PSU. The 600W will not directly fit in the Ender 5 Plus chassis without drilling new holes and the other costs over $100 at cost. There's no harm in putting in a larger PSU. Just pointing out why we're carrying the Meanwell 450 version and not the others that can be made to fit in the E5 Plus.
If you're using a 450 and are concerned with the load you can dial the 24V back to 22V without affecting much heat up times and it will drop the load by about 10% and bring it down to 410W total load. Personally I am running 24V on mine and have not had any issues nor do I expect to have any.
My 450 I purchased from TH3D has been running great! Any tips on replacing the 12v fan inside the power supply for something a bit quieter?
Thank you for your reply. I appreciate your attention to detail and the fact you back up your components, that's why I tagged you directly.
Your numbers on the DC side are very close to what I'm seeing, although a bit lower. I think the peak is much closer to 500W DC total but I don't care to haggle over ~10%. I think almost everything else you mention I included in my video, including the 150% overload capacity of the 450W. I agree that people will probably not see a problem with the 450 under normal operating conditions and environments. I also see why saving some money on the supply and necessary tools to upgrade to the 600, may be what people are looking for. In the end, I chose a different solution and it may appeal to others that are willing to spend the extra money, want some extra headroom in the supply, and/or plan on expanding the printer.
I've added a clarification on DC power usage to my pinned post.
Glad I read this and saved myself 29-minutes.
Was just about to state that the power will go down significantly after pre-heating, but you covered it all :)
Same issue. Got a little over 6 months on mine. Just ordered the Mean Well 600 you linked. Not looking to replace multiple times. Thanks for your files as well!
picked up an Ender 5 plus , and have been going through your videos (which have been fantastic by the way!) .. it showed up today and while assembling I was going through it looking for things you had mentioned. Mine came stock with a Mean Well PSU .. and an different surfaced glass bed ... its been interesting seeing the differences to the machine from initial introduction to now :D
I've watched Tripods and TH3Ds video (and now yours), and had ordered the TH3D Meanwell replacement before I even had the printer set up, LOL! But I haven't installed it yet. The Ender 5 Plus is my first printer ever, and I already have a hankering for a dual extruder setup, or dual hot ends, whatever I have to do. Now I'm worried the 450W Meanwell won't be up to the task and I should go bigger. The rabbit hole continues!! Thanks for putting up such detailed videos on things like this. You're a wealth of good information on the Ender 5 Plus!
Thanks! Personally, I think adding additional load to that supply wouldn't be a good idea. TH3D responded to this post as well. Check out their response as well as contact him directly for his opinion.
I don't even have a printer yet but I'm glad I found your channel. You're a great teacher dude
I appreciate that! Thanks for stopping by! I hope you pick one up soon!
Same
Well I watched this video two weeks ago and didn't update my power supply at that time...WELL....I GOT THE OVER HEAT MESSAGE today. I am buying the parts now. You are a huge help and I appreciate you so much!!! I did buy all the products through your links.
Glad I could help and I appreciate you using the links! By "Over heat" message, what do you mean?
I just ordered mine, will receive it tomorrow. I'm really happy with your video's about the Ender-5 and Ender-5 Plus!!
Good luck to you! Just be careful and take your time. (Advice for everyone, not just you. 😉)
@@kerseyfabs Ordered the MW PSU as well, not gonna risk a melting PSU :')
@@kerseyfabs So I'm back, when I received the PSU I decided to give the original PSU some time prove it self and it's still going strong. Still have the MW ready to go when I need it, but I'm still happy with the original so far.
Thank you! Will be getting a ender 5 plus, when it fails I'll know what it is. Awesome work. So much info. Great content
thanks for the video. sorry you had to put the disclaimer at the beginning. haha. might order it soon so when I put everything together I can take care of it off the bat to be safe
Great video thanks. I haven't printed enough to justify this upgrade but the 600W looks to be the best peace of mind.
I was really surprised to see that you didn't just print a whole new bottom part to hold everything nice and clean (with a top cover access). I like what you did looks clean (the yellow really pops).
Thanks! I may come up with alternative solutions as I evolve the printer even more. For my videos, I always try to come up with something that's relatively easy for people to print and install.
I put in the Meanwell SE-600 PSU in my printer before Christmas. Not because anything happened, but because I didn't want anything to happen. Right now, everything is set up loose in the turned over PSU cover, which isn't ideal. But I'll be printing out your holder for the PSU and go from there. Thanks a bunch!
its amazing how simple the inside of these PSUs are, just because I am used to seeing breakdowns of computer PSUs that have to output a variety of voltages.
Excellent video. I applied my se-600-24 to the inside using the bottom nut receivers and attached to the top of the box. You need to add wire to ground and neutral but others hooked up well. I prefer the flow thru the box and hot air is well exhausted out the back vents. Even taped up a closeout to preclude backflow. Cool air will enter thru forward side vents to cool CPU. I absolutely agree with the 600W solution. 600 was even cheaper than the 500 mw for some reason. Also note if applied outside, you may need to ground the chasis to the psu but I'm not an electrical engineer..
While i don't have one of these printers yet ( going to buy one within the month) i do have a tevo tarantula that i built and i run it off a small ups. this has 2 benefits: 1. any line surges will be absorbed by the ups 2. the battery backup will hold your printer where it needs to be in case of brownouts or total power loss, albeit for a limited time. at least long enough to get over there and decide what you wanted to do. This has saved me many times when the power dropped out for a few minutes and then came back saving my print. I will def be upgrading the PS before i even use mine. The MOV's in the supply are meant to suppress transient spikes in line voltage., so they saved your printer and potentially your home. Thanks for the videos, ill def be doing the top 5 upgrades as well.
I use UPSes on any of my printers that "reasonably" sized ones can work on. The Ender 5 Plus is not one of those printers. The 850VA/510W UPS I have freaks out when heating up an Ender 5 Plus. It would take more.
You by far have the best content on these printers! You must have a engineering background to be so detailed.
I really appreciate it! I majored in computer engineering and computer science in college. I ended with a computer science degree. I'm very methodical about my work because that's how I guarantee results. 🤓
@@kerseyfabs Mechatronics Engineer Major here. I recognize quality and appreciate your super hard work that I'm glad I don't have to do.
Great feedback
Serious problems
I agree with Tim, it seams OK with his choice of power supply
Thanks for sharing👍😀
Thanks. That's why I included it in the video. I just wanted to give a complete picture. I welcome Tim's feedback.
Thanks for you videos, they've helped me a lot. I changed the PSU max power to 50% with a custom firmware (based on the original sources form creality), hope that this will give the installed PSU a longer lifetime.
No problem. What setting gives you only 50% power?
@@kerseyfabs Setting # define MAX_BED_POWER 127 in the Configuration.h
Geez, was getting ready to get an Ender 5 Plus, but don't have the budget for it, plus a PS upgrade out of the box, which I am now convinced it would need. Especially since I plan to print very large parts with extended print times. Thanks so much for this needful video.
I'm really sorry to hear that. I had share once I had something to report. I hope you find your printer!
The burnt parts are probably ceramic capacitors that cost pennies. Also the draw can not be accurately measured from that end. You can put an amps meter in series on the 24v lead to check accurately. The efficiency of the PSU is 70% or less .You can easily subtract 30% from your meter readings. I still agree to go with a larger meanwell . I'm looking to see if I can add a 24v gcode controlled ceramic heater.. I guess I answered my own question but you led me to the answer. Thanks for your videos I learn a lot from you.
As a NOOB, I would very much appreciate a detailed install video on this mod and the addition of the Hero Me Gen 3 cooling system that you prefer. I am certainly no stranger to things mechanical, but I suspect that I am not alone in wanting to see this before I go forward. I have the power supply and the support brackets printed, so I will likely move forward with my modification. You have such a great teaching method, I think that detailed mod videos for extruder swap and just about any other of your upgrades would be welcome. I will become a Patreon subscriber as soon as I complete this epistle.
Thanks Louie! I appreciate all of that and if you look through the channel, you may be able to find some of the tutorials you were looking for. Are there any specific parts of this install that are missing you need help on? Almost all of the process I cover or are at least shown in the quick videos. Also please check my pinned posts on various videos for clarifications and updates.
Thank you for a detailed analysis and solution you've developed. From protection and space efficiency perspective, IMHO, my preference would have been to make the adapters, cable re-organization and cooling adaptations necesary to host the PSU inside the control box.
That's a valid solution. Just be careful with airflow.
That's a good idea, but you can quickly run out of room when you start adding other mods. It also makes it difficult to access parts.
Excellent video. I'm going to order the new supply before I build the Ender 5 Plus. Why wait until there is a problem, and have to do it again. I watch CHEP, Teaching Tech, Thomas Sanladerer, and your videos are right up there with them. Thanks for the great content!
Thank you so much for the comment! That's quite the group you've put me with and I'm humbled! All the best!
After watching your video, I decided to go with the 600W Mean Well. Additionally, the fan in the stock power supply began to rattle and its days seem counted. I measured a power draw of the stock PSU of 520W peak with an external Wattmeter plugged into the electric outlet, which seems far too much for me for the stock PSU to drive safely.
Other than Kersey, I installed the 600W MeanWell without any problems in the stock electronic case by drilling some holes. To monitor the temperature in the case, I plugged a probe inside, because the fan of the new PSU isn't in the same place as the old one and I wanted to know, if heat dissipation is sufficient. While with the new PSU, the air is blown at the rear end and not directly out of the case, it has enough slots to get rid of warm air and I barely noticed inside temperatures above 29°C in an environmental temperature of around 20°C.
Interestingly, the power draw with the newly installed PSU reached sometimes up to 600W. So, there seems room for improvement with the stock PSU... and now I am feeling much safer in regard of a brand and far stronger PSU...
If the bed is that overpowered, perhaps you could extend the life of an underpowered supply by limiting the duty cycle on that heater. It would heat up more slowly, but that's less troublesome than outright breaking. This workaround would be firmware only.
I read those spec sheets around the 15 minute mark slightly differently. The overload indications of e.g. 105-130% power doesn't mean you can draw 130%; it means the protection should trip somewhere in that range. It's quite significant what happens when it does; the RSP-500 goes to constant current, which means it will allow voltage to drop, effectively to the point where the power is OK. So expect the printer to run at maybe 16-20V rather than 24V while running the bed at full power, which it only does during preheating, not while printing. This is what makes it a good replacement, because the printer is quite tolerant of undervoltage.
Those burned components are probably varistors, part of the safety circuitry. It's possible the initial failure was not just from temperature but from condensation, since the printer had moved from a cold to warmer environment. Usually condensation can evaporate again if you let the system sit a few hours, but it's risky to power unsealed electronics while it's colder than the environment.
Hi all. I have been running my stock power supply for over 500hrs of printing. No issues. I do have it setup in my office which is a AC controlled environment.
Very informative video. The only concern I can see is how you brought the mains voltage (110/220) outside the chassis. I would want those wires sleeved to keep them better protected/insulated. Also you should run a ground wire from the printer chassis to the power supply chassis. It looked like those printed mounts would not allow a chassis ground to the printer
You are absolutely correct and I'm surprised no one else (including myself) has caught that one. I though I may have gotten lucky and it would have grounded through the mainboard to the chassis or something. Nope. So I will definitely add this to my pinned tab and will probably make a short video on fixing it. Thanks again!
Worth noting that the RSP-500 from Creality comes with adapters to fit the holes for the OEM power supply. Otherwise, you'll only be able to line-up one hole for mounting. I messaged Creality about buying the adapter separately and they charged me $6 (currently in the mail) but YMMV since it isn't an item on their site.
Thanks for that. I didn't realize they were just providing adapters. It's nice that they'll sell them separately.
upgrading from a 15 year old RapMan 3.2 to this printer. Appreciate the videos and upgrade insights!
No problem. I'm glad you're finding them useful.
@@kerseyfabs I even further appreciate the response! Another question I have is, any experience or examples with higher temp materials with this printer (stock build plate / no enclosure)? ABS or PETG? You often mention the name or color, would like know the type too please!
I've printed PETG with the stock hotend with no issue. If you just change out for an all metal hotend, like the one from Micro Swiss, you can also print materials like nylon and polycarb with just some good bed adhesive.
My 5+ had Mean Well RSP-500-24 and it died just after 1.5 years. On most of the time but mostly in idle, not printing. I was looking at replacements, the I have have is expensive, found the 600 and an off brand (Drok, lots of reviews) but 480 W. After watching this, I'm going with the 600 W Mean Well shown in the video. I didn't realize the unit was taxing the supply as such. Thanks
I've been happy with mine. Just a note, it isn't a quiet supply.
@@kerseyfabs I got a reasonably large Noctua NF A9x14fan for my supply just before it failed. I’ll have to see about adapting it to the new one.
Thank you for yet another great content video on the Ender 5 plus issue. You are describing the issue of beyond spec power consumption and you are connecting it to low ambient starting conditions. Could you share information on ambient temperature while you were doing the start up measurements? As you know, but have skipped to mention, the heat bed in particular draws "excessive" current at below 70 F (20°C). It particularly does that during heat up as it warms up its thermal mass and beyond thermal mass coupled to it. So only with a notion of max initial power consumption would I feel able to assess that I indeed need a more powerful power supply in the first place.
I am now opting for a multiple layer strategy such:
1. Heat room moderately (approx. 18°C (65 F)).
2. Electrically provide supplementary room heating controlled by two point thermostat (on 20 ° C (68 F); off 21.7 °C (71 F).
3. (Fall back Hot bottle to warm up bed, like Tripod's garage with heat gun).
4. Switched to the meanwell 500 W power supply used by Tripod's garage.
So in a nutshell, it will still be a boarder case.
To minimize heat loss during operation (should I get there) I have inserted 2 inch Styrofoam inserts into the cube's side and under the heat bed. I have seen that insulating underneath the heat bed in particular has a measurable impact on heat loss, lowering the room heating caused by the heat bed, hence lowering energy consumption most of the operating time.
On the day I filmed, the room would have been around 15°C. I don't believe it draws more power under 20°C than over but I haven't tested that myself. It obviously draws current anytime it's below the target temperature and the PID cycling cuts on. Is there a thermal-electric property of the bed that you're saying causes more current draw under 20°C?
@@kerseyfabs Sorry I only have occasional expsoure to elelctronics. My thought has been: When the circuitry is dawn cold, its resistance is very, very low, causing a higher pretty short timed draw of electricity. In that logic, the first thing it would take would be to ever so slightly heat up the circuitry. Well logic is one. I was juts ready to start my own assembly and test it when I saw your video. One of my two Ender 5 plusses still has initial power supply. Although I only heated the nozzle at 19 ° C ambient consuming the predicted 52 W, the printer went to power failure shut down, hinting that there is more that is wrong about my PSU therein (It does work on the occasion & I suppose, in a warm room though). The other Ender 5 plus (with all the amendments (meanwell PSU 500 W, silent motherboard, Mosfet upgrade) started smoothly and pulled the very same 525 W at cold start, that you observed. I was surprised to see the 525 W only, hard to imagine this can already knock out the original PSU rated at 500 W.
On a side notion, I am happy to hear that European-style CE marking has such a good reputation. However, it is a manufacturer's unilateral declaration of compliance to norms, that have to be mentioned in the certificate only. Certificate has to be produced upon selling the certified item, not only upon request. There are neither any tests nor is there any guarantee that the full set of applicable norms would have been followed.
I am very happy, I could anchor my confusion with the aide of your excellent report. Thanks a million.
I would also change the wire open end spade terminals to ring round closed type terminals, they help prevent arcing with higher amps. great video
Thanks for the tip!
I think what you meant is that open spade lugs can come completely detached, while ring terminals will not. Either can arc if sufficiently loose.
450w meanwell works fantastically!
I just got my printer today and can confirm a Meanwell RSP-500-24 is installed. Just upgrading to ferrules on the connections and removing about a pound of hot glue
Awesome! Congrats on the printer!
It's worth noting that the RSP series has Power-Factor correction. The SE series does not. That's why the RSP-500-24 goes for about $90 while the SE-450-24 costs only about $65.
BTW, the RSP-500-24, which Creality sells, does not match the original mounting holes. I had to drill 3 holes to mount mine inside the case.
Thanks for that. For anyone else interested in what PFC is and how it works: www.sunpower-uk.com/glossary/what-is-power-factor-correction/
I was told by another commenter that theirs came with an adapter of some sort. Seems yours didn't, so that seems to vary depending on when you ordered.
Just in case you'd like to update any new Ender 5 Plus purchasers, newer printers are shipping with a Mean Well RSP-500-24.
I ordered my printer on 5/4/20 and finally received it from Creality on 7/3/20, after being back-ordered for two months.. When I opened it up to swap to the silent motherboard V2.2.1 and swap out the fan, I observed that the power supply in my printer was a Mean Well RSP-500-24
Good to hear!
Blown PSU used NTCs for inrush current limiting. Either used under-sized parts for the combination of load and input filter capacitor or the NTCs didn't like thermal cycling as the heated bed cycled on-off. Best fix would be an AC-powered bed, then you'd only need 100W on 24VDC, 250W if you want headroom for tool-changing.
Thanks Dan for the run-down.
The components that are burnt up are designed to stop in rush current. They usually fail like that when there is a power spike or when the primary side of the power supply fails. FCC only means the supply is not emitting excessive radio emissions. Those cheap supplies are definitely not as good quality as the Meanwell, and they usually do not perform to spec, which is why so many fail.
You could always drop the voltage (and thus current) going to the bed by putting some beefy diodes in line with the heater MOSFET component. If you assume 450 W draw on the bed at 24 V, that gives 18.75 A - put four diodes in line with a nominal 0.6 V drop per diode and you drop the 24 V to 22.6 V, yielding (22.6 V x 18.75 A) = 405 W. With diodes, you can stack as many as you want to bring down the voltage.
My Ender 5 Plus is on its way, so once it gets here I’ll have a look and see if this is a worthwhile approach.
That sounds like a decent option but you'll probably have some heat concerns with those diodes and you'll also slow down the heating of the bed.
Kersey Fabrications
It looks like my Ender 5 Plus will be sitting in Customs here for a while, as they’re locking down the country tomorrow. Yes, you will dissipate some heat in the diodes and the bed will take longer to warm up and boost - however the point is to lower the current draw from the power supply so that it can survive.
It looks like there is a trimmer near the LED. If that is a voltage setting then you might try turning that down slightly - say to 22 V. That should also drop current draw, but across the whole machine.
Hey Kersey - thanks for the Ender Plus videos. Very nice.
Do you have any opinion or knowledge about possibly using a linear, non-switching PSU instead of the meanwell or similar switching PSUs?
For normal motion control systems, IE - not in inexpensive hobby grade 3D printers - linear toroidal PSUs are by far preferred due to the lack of switching noise. I am looking at a 600watt 24v linear PSU on ebay for $45.. To me it appears to be both more affordable and superior to a alternative switching PSU. Any opinion?
Wow. That explains everything
IF I remember correctly both the bed heater and the hot end are just binary (on or off). It might be a better idea to add a second power supply and isolate those two high draw loads from causing noise on the steppers. You would need to run two sets of wires to two relays from the control board. As there would be minimal load on the wires from the controller to the relays, those wires could be lighter weight, the wires from the second power supply to the heaters would still need to be heavy. It could also open up the option of running the hot end and the bed heater at higher voltage (say 48V), allowing you to run smaller wires.
Others have suggested this and it's definitely an option. You could devote a power supply just for the bed and it should fix the issue. I don't think there are regularly available heating cartridges for 48V, but I haven't looked.
@@kerseyfabs Yeah, 48V heating cartridges are non existent at normal price points. Which leaves you with running off the 24V supply OR running two cartridges in series. I drew up the hot end for dual cartridges(basically mirrored a standard block) and it is eh OK. The thermistor winds up being about as close to the cartridge as the nozzle (bad thing?) and the tightener screw for thermistor is pretty long (deep threads on small dia tends to be PITA, could do a counter bore). I was trying to figure out if having a cartridge on either side of the nozzle would have a volcano like effect or if the heat transfer through the block (on a single) would essentially be the same. Finished the drawings for the air compressor 40mm fan replacement and started working on the drawings a part cooling ring.
Hey Chris -- nice video. But... I think you are misinterpreting the overload specs in these power supplies. When the spec says that the overload protection range is, say 105% to 130%, it's not saying you can plan to run the supply at 130% rating. In the absence of more detailed info, the datasheet implication is that it has an overload protection strategy that is guaranteed not to engage below 105%, and guaranteed that it _will_ engage by 130%. As an example, if you look at the sample test report for the RSP-500 ( www.meanwell-web.com/content/files/pdfs/productPdfs/MW/RSP-500/RSP-500-24-rpt.pdf ), that unit engaged the overload protection at 121%. So the idea is to employ these where the anticipated load will be below 100%; that will give at least 5% headroom for avoiding unwanted overload protection incidents, and at worst 30% overload before the unit recognizes a fault. (And usually it's a good idea to run power supplies at significantly less than 100% for heat and longevity reasons.)
It's also worth noting that different units have different overload protection strategies. Some trigger a shutdown, and require a power cycle to restart. That's the case with the RSP-450 and 600. However the datasheet for the RSP-500 shows that its strategy is current limiting, which is to say if the load current exceeds the limit, the unit reduces the output voltage until the output current reduces to an acceptable value. That give you less protection if a current overload is a sign of genuine trouble, since the unit doesn't shut down. But if the overload is just due to intentionally drawing more current than the unit is designed for, then you may not notice that protection has engaged -- just that the heated bed takes longer to heat up than it would if properly powered.
Bottom line: do as you did here: get a power supply whose capacity is sufficient for the anticipated loads, and has a protection strategy that shuts the unit down if the load significantly exceeds (by say 10-35%) what you expect.
Good analysis and helps understanding why a larger capacity is better
Thanks Graham for the analysis. That is a slightly different explanation that what I had thought. Basically, the power supply has you covered for this range of over usage and here is what it will do about it. I'll include this in my pinned post. This covers the safety aspect still but doesn't tell you it's acceptable to run over spec. As you said, I'll stick to recommending a supply that is over-speced rather than under.
i really suggest adding a foot to that PSU to stop the cantilever thats happening with it when you touch it, but overall Fantastic vid!
I also added a second set of holes on the mounting bracket so you could secure it from the top and bottom of the 2020.
I believe initial warming up stage would draw a high wattage under cold ambient temperature whereas maintaining the the achieved temperature thereafter would be well within the stock PSU spec. It means it would be okay if you can use hairdryer kinds or a printer housing to help the initial heating up stage.
Yes, the initial warm up draws the most current over the longest time but that's not to say that the same pull couldn't happen mid-print due to just random timing of heating cycles. Also, using a hair dryer seems like a rather silly fix to the problem. It doesn't avoid the power draw, it may only shorten it.
I mean unless you want a long term fix of course. And I believe house heating would be in gradual change.
I received my ender 5 plus yesterday, with a built in meanwell power supply!
Who did you order from?
@@kerseyfabs directly from the german creality shop. Its the RSP-500-24 Power supply!
I did as well, was shipped from Creality's official Canadian warehouse
At around 20:00 in future you should definitely use something like Skintops instead of those o-ring grommets that don't have any strain relief for mains cabling, which is always a very bad thing. Those general purpose grommets aren't rated or allow to be used for mains connections at all where I live. Skintops are.
I found my way to this video because my PSU is so damn noisy. It's kind of funny that the noise isn't mentioned once here, but I did learn a lot and will make sure not to heat both the bed and nozzle at the same time.
14:35 remember users may want to power some extra's.. LED lights outer fans, Rasberry Pi, WebCams, etc on top
Great video! I would think a 650 or 700 watt power supply would be better to offer more headroom so the power supply would not be working so close to crossing into the overload zone. I would be curious to know if you measured the wattage when printing to see how much the stepper motors would add to the total draw. Or if you want to add accessories such as a buck converter for an OctoPi, you'd have more room to expand.
Thanks! I added a clarification in the pinned post about power usage. Keep in mind that the 600W+ was from the AC input. Actual usage is around 500W or so, DC. 600W rated should be plenty. From my research, steppers should run at less than 5W. Accessories though can vary quite a bit and it's why I went with a 600W supply.
I just got my Ender 5 Plus, it came with a Mean Well RSP-500! Although I'm having major issues with filament leaking out the sides of the nozzle
That's great on the power supply. If the nozzle is leaking, you can try tightening it. If that doesn't work, disassemble it and put it back together. I did a nozzle replacement video a while back.
Thank you for this video. I think if i get a ender 5 plus i might opt for a meanwell 1000 watt psu for headroom sake for future upgrades and lower output ratings due to age. or go with a ac mains powered heated bed and take 90% of the load off the psu.
No problem. The 1000 watt would give you a good amount of headroom. I haven't had any issues with the 600 though.
The issue I have with the PSU analysis is that I believe that a PSU should never be taxed more than 80% of its rated capacity: i.e. a 600W PSU should not have to handle a load over 480W, no matter what the stated overload capacity is.
Understood. The 600W is more than enough given that the total load is under the 600W and it's not loaded at that capacity 100% of the time.
Mine arrived from Amazon yesterday. It came with a 500W Meanwell power supply.
I will be ordering mine tomorrow and I hope mine also comes with the Meanwell. Fingers crossed!
Nice work! I just bought one of these 5+ printers and glad I saw this.Going back to my computer mod days I would hesitate run a box that runs at 650W+- with a low grade 500W PSU. Just asking for trouble. I will be replacing with a MW RSP-500 PSU. There is a ton of space in that mechanical box. I wonder if the PSU will fit if you took it out of the enclosure. You could attach the fan to the back of the enclosure to add air flow to all of the electronics.
Computer mods is where I started too. Plenty of people have decided to go with that supply and I've heard zero complaints. That's an interesting idea about the enclosure but I think it would definitely be a safety issue, so I'll stick with mine.😆
I'm an EE and agree with using a higher wattage power supply. An analogy would be riding a 100 cc motorcycle on the freeway, having to stay at full throttle just to keep up. The engine won't last long being run that way, whereas a larger one doesn't have to work as hard and will last far longer. Same with power supplies.
Thanks for your feedback! Always good to have some professionals in here. 👍
This just proves a point. Creality doesn't care about customer safty. These could burn your home down. Funny thing is people will defend this company willingly knowing that there is flaws this substantial with this product
FYI. CE marking is self certification. If the company isn't legitimate the CE mark isn't either. You want to look for 3rd party labs like underwriter labs
I think, maybe you need to look at how you are running your test. When you measure the wall plug wattage this is not what is being delivered on the 24 volt side of the power supply. If you look at the spec of the 450 watt power supply, you will see at rated out of 450 watts on the 24 volt side of the power supply can draw up to 1100 watts on the line side of the power supply. That's what I am reading from the spec sheet in the video. So when you are reading 500 watts on your AC line Volt/Watt meter is not what the power supply is delivering. To me what that means is that power supply is loafing along at half rated power. The correct way to do this, is to measure the Amps/ Watts on the 24VDC line as it leaves the power supply then you will get an exact current / amperage reading the power supply is supplying. To clarify, again if you look at the rated output of the 24 VDC is says 18.8 Amps @ 24VDC (the output voltage) which equals 451 Watts. Amps X Volts = Wattage (power). Because if you think about it, it would be irresponsible to put an under rated powered supply in a product plus one heck of a liability lawsuit. Now why did your power supply fail? Who knows a voltage spike, a close lightning strike, an under voltage input from the power company. Just because you found 2 burnt components does not necessarily mean that they failed first. It could be something upstream from those parts. Only true diagnostics will tell you what happened. I have a load of HAM radio equipment that operate on 13.8 VDC at 20 amps. I have several 13.8 VDC power supplies that run on AC. All those power supplies are hooked up to Uninterruptible Power Supplies that not only have backup battery power but also perform Line Regulation for voltage sag or over voltage. They use pure Sine Wave Inverters so I will have clean pure power at all times. If you are heavy into 3D printing, you should consider getting high current rated UPS systems.
Bruce
Just wondering how safe it is to run this power supply outside the printer, inside a creality enclosure tent and I am having a hard time determing which model meanwell power supply is being used or are all 600 Watts units the same?
insted of changing power supplies, out of the box just add a kenovo 120 volt heat bed and relay. Then you get more performance on the heat bed, and reduce the the load on the power supplie.
From a technical standpoint, that sounds terrific. Most people though don't have the technical know how to pull that off safely. I've avoided working with mains voltage on this channel for that reason.
There is an alternative! and that is to run the heated bed on its own separate dedicated power supply, this will work out cheaper also.
Is there a tutorial on putting the bed on its own power supply?
@Kersey Fabrications - Since I sub'd to your channel of course I am going to watch ;-) With even with more interest that there was a "shout-out"! I really appreciate you giving credit to others, thanks again!
Seems the we both have the same issues, darn cold garages in the midwest! My power-supply only burned up in 2 months with no upgrades, seems yours faired a little better. Glad to see you didn't just lay the printer on it's side, which I have seen in other videos. Just removing 4 bolts is so much easier, and you don't have to worry about tweaking the frame out of square.
Well maybe with more of these videos, #Creality might need to take some action. Creality actually apologized in one of my videos, "sorry for all inconvenience we may cause and we will continue to improve". Well, lets hope they do!
Well done video, great solution! Keep it up! - Tripod from TripodsGarage
Thanks again for the content and the feedback!
John, glad to see that you and Kris are watching each others channels, they are both great and offer different views on the same information
David Wilson - Dave, absolutely this is what is great about UA-cam and other forms of social media! Watching and learning, leaning, and teaching!
Yes there is a way around. The original bed draws far to high currents anyway. So imho it makes more sense to replace the original bed by an AC heater and an SSR.
I looked into this price-wise and it's about the same as buying a new power supply but it's a lot more work.
@@kerseyfabs The question is if you want a component that draws over 20 amps in your printer.
Personally I'll replace the bed with a new aluminium plate, heater mat and add a third z axis to remove the bed springs and use underbed piezos. No manual leveling anymore 🥳
I would like to say that I buy a
Ender 5 plus recently and the power supply is changed , now it has the Meanwell RPS-500-24V
NOTE: As far as I can tell, all currently shipping Ender 5 Plus machines now come with a Meanwell 500W power supply standard! You can still use this video to verify your power supply or upgrade to the 600W, so I'm leaving it up for reference.
Comment for corrections, clarifications, etc.
- Commenter andrewforte noticed that with this setup, the power supply is no longer grounded to the chassis. This is a big problem and should be fixed immediately. With the power unplugged from the outlet, you should run a wire from the ground terminal (green/yellow wire) on the supply to a screw on the chassis. This will provide a common ground and a much needed safety fix.
- Cost of the RSP-500 or SE-600 is around $100.
- The SE-600 is little louder but while printing it was not louder than my part cooling fans and very low pitched.
- When drilling the holes in the rear of the chassis, move all wires out of the way or place a protective barrier to protect the wires.
- Clarification: With all of the "to the wall/AC current" numbers I was using, I don't want the actual DC usage of the supply to get lost. The DC side pulls between 450-500W under full load. This means that the 450W or 500W MEAN WELL power supplies should be able to handle it given their overload values. My argument is that I don't like to run a supply at 100% load on principle or if you're considering future expansion. Others may disagree.
- Commenter Graham Wideman offered some clarification on the "Protection" lines in the Mean Well datasheets. For each category, "Overload," "Over Voltage," and "Over Temperature" the datasheet tells you the range that it supports protections (temperature does not include a specific range) and then it tells you what it will do to handle the condition. So for example, the RSP-500 has protection from 105 - 130% rated power and the protection is by limiting constant current. This does not mean that supply sound be run 130% over rating but that it should protect you if the supply detects a problem. Bottom line, you still shouldn't exceed a supply's rating.
- 22:25 - The mounting screws are M3 not M5 screws. I called for the correct part in the description.
I would pin this comment so it appears at the top.
@@voicesarefree I thought it was pinned! Thanks for letting me know.
It is highly unlikely that your power supply failed because it was operated at 77 degrees F. I strongly suspect that it died because of a series of input over-voltage events.
Most electronic equipment is rated at room temperature, 25 degrees C or 77 degrees F. The data sheets will then give ratings at higher and sometimes lower temperatures. The power supplies that came with the printer and that you installed are most likely all consumer grade and would probably be rated to provide full output power at up to something like 85 degrees C or 185 degrees F. The engineers at Creality would have been truly negligent if they released a product that would overheat when operated at room temperature.
The two round, black discs that you point out at 3:37 are most likely MOV's (Metal Oxide Varistors). I could not see the markings on the cover of the power supply clearly because your hand obscured most of them. It is most likely that one of them is connected across the hot and neutral AC input terminals and the other is connected from the hot to Ground or chassis. The white cylinder next to the MOV's is a fuse and is often connected between the MOV's and the actual input terminals. It is most likely that when the MOV's failed, they caused the fuse to go open circuit, rendering the power supply non-operational. Please note this is an intentional result (see below).
The purpose of the MOV's is to protect the components in the front end of the power supply from over-voltages on the AC input. This can occur when there is a lightning strike on the overhead power lines feeding your neighborhood. They can also occur when certain types of large industrial equipment are running.
The MOV's absorb the energy in an over-voltage event and prevent the voltage at the inputs from rising over what the components used in the power supply can withstand so that those components are not damaged. MOV's are rated by the voltage at which they start to clamp and the total amount of energy that they can absorb. When all of the energy absorption capacity of an MOV is used up, it fails and shorts out. This will cause the series connected fuse to blow open, disconnecting the power supply from the AC input and further abuse by over-voltage. Very often, when MOV's reach their end of life and fail, they explode just like the ones in your power supply. In industrial grade equipment, there is usually a piece of heat shrink tubing applied over the bodies of the MOV's to prevent the pieces from flying around inside the enclosure. If one knows how to select the appropriate MOV's it may be possible to replace the failed ones and the failed fuse and get the power supply working again. I do not recommend you try to do this.
@@kerseyfabs I just noticed that the Meanwell power supply also has one MOV near the input like the other power supply. This means that if it is subjected to enough over-voltage events, it will likely fail in the same way (see my previous post). The power supplies that I designed for industrial equipment also have MOV's on the input and are also expected to fail in the same way if subjected to enough over-voltage events.
@@philso7872 But failure would be based on the rating of the components, which on higher end supplies should be over specced. I would hope.
Not looking forward to the time when I might have to switch power supplies on my E5+ (not Meanwell). I would like to try an print Polycarbonite which seems to require a hotend at 275°C and a bed at 110°C. Would I be stressing my device if I try to press to these high temps?
The way that the power supplies work, it wouldn't put more stress on it but it will require it to stress more of the time. So it is possible that it will burn up faster.
Great video! Did Creality reply?
Creality switched all modern Ender 5 Plus printers to Meanwell power supplies.
What's about using a solid state relais and a and 240 or 110VAC heated bed? At the end it cost less for a better result
You definitely could replace the bed with an AC solution as others have suggested. Someone else even suggested just putting an AC pad on the existing bed. I won't be going that route.
I bought a 5 Plus a couple of months back which came with the 500watt Mean well PSU. It turned out in my case at least this PSU is not man enough. I had issues in the Z axis of my prints which I finally tracked down to the bed heater switching in and out, print without the bed being heated no problems whatsoever. I have gone with your advice and today a SE-600-24 arrived from Digikey. I am not sure these PSU's are as capable as one might think. Note on the overload statement as per the datasheet it says 105% ~ 125% of rated output, why a range? Well I would suggest what this is telling the user is the PSU can tolerate overcurrent of at least 105% but MAY be as high as 125% if you are lucky!! So I would suggest that one should take the lower figure only or you are just pushing your luck. This is just the way I see things and I might be wrong......
Kris, one small mistake, at 22:45 you are mounting the covers on the Mean well and you have captioned M5 x 5mm screws. I think it should be M3 x 5mm. I just finished mine and was looking back through the video for placement
You're absolutely right. Luckily I called for the right part in the description! Note being added to pinned post. Thanks!
@kersey Is this something Creality has acknowledged and is fixing or if I buy a new Ender 5 Plus am I going to have to go get a Journeyman spot with an electrician to rewire a new power supply?
According to all reports, all of them are now shipping with the Meanwell 500 power supply. It should be good now.
I'm late to the party but those were inrush current limiting NTC thermistor They prevent excess current draw when the power supply is turned on and the caps charge up to the left of the thermistors. They start out with high resistance that drops as its temperature increases. Honestly it was probably part quality that caused this issue. Just a cheap spec NTC. Saved the manufacturer a few pennies per supply and typically lives just past the warranty.
Still eagerly awaiting the next Ender 5 Plus video, and hoping you do something about a motherboard upgrade!!! I picked up a Bigtree SKR 1.4 turbo with 2209 drivers, and have ZERO clue where to find a proper configuration.h file for this thing. Found them listed for the 5 and 5 Pro, but nothing for the 5 Plus. It's driving me insane, especially when printing with Z-hop enabled. I get loud 'squeaks' every time it hops, and I've already greased the Z-axis rods up. I was hoping the SKR / 2209s would help that, but I can't install it without a sample profile, since I don't know how to set all those variables properly for the dual Z-axis on 5P. It looks like not a lot of folks are using the 1.4 turbo boards with the 5P.
I'm working on it but it'll be a couple of weeks. I have so many videos in the queue! BTW, that board is in the line-up.
Have you looked into the Official Ender 5/Plus/Pro Facebook group for people that may have configurations?
I don't think that will fix your squeaking though. Look into the POM leadscrew nuts I showed in my upgrades video.
@@kerseyfabs nah, the squeaking is specific to z-axis hop. I need that enabled for certain prints, particularly the Gayer-Anderson cat. But the squeak only happens when the Z-axis hops. Otherwise it's smooth and quiet all the way up and down. I did watch your Ender 5 Plus upgrade video (about 5 times now), and I already have the leadscrew nuts, but my z-axis bars are pretty solid, they don't wobble like yours did in the video. Once I get the SKR board figured out, the modding begins. I'm not on Facebook unfortunately, so I'm missing a lot of great resources there I'm sure. I've been Googling the weekend away and did find some people that uploaded Ender 5 Plus config files to Github for Marlin 2.0, but I haven't tested them yet. I was hoping to find a 'standard' base config officially from Marlin, but that doesn't exist for the Plus. You can find one for EVERY other Ender printer BUT the Plus, hence my pain, LOL!
Eagerly awaiting more video Kris, you're one of the best channels I've found for detailed knowledge on this stuff!! Keep up the great work!
So best way I’ve found to run a printer is with insulation so the bed heats faster and means the power supply can run cooler.
It's funny to recognize, that nobody talk about warranty?! If my power supply will die in that special time frame, I would contact the manufacturer for a replacement.
Of course warranty is an option. Many people don't want to wait on shipment from China or get replacement of the same supply.
Those are likely MOVs that burnt if that is the AC in. They are designed to take voltage spikes above you typical 120v and shunt it to ground. Inside the kitchen you have a lot of equipment that can cause a voltage spike when they shut off. It's like water hammering when you shut off a valve and you have nothing to absorb the water pressure. MOVs tend to fry like that when they shunt a spike too many.
Thanks for the info!
I did this mod after seeing this video, but the 600W fan is LOUD!!!! Do you know size/voltage of fan so I could try to replace it with a quieter one? Thanks!!
Have we found a way to make the fan on the Meanwell not as loud as a hoover vacuum?
Just place a strip of color matched duct tape across it, i can’t hear mine running anymore since then. Lol, No…. Don’t try the stupid little “hood scoop” thingamajig posted to thingiverse either, it acts the same as the duct tape. If you truly want a silent running fan and you are remotely trained in the ancient art of using hand tools then you can source a Noctua.
Curious of where you got the clear protectors you slide in to stop anything from contacting the connections. This may seem a silly question, but I love little details like that lol. Thanx in advance.
Those came with the power supply.
Yeah realized that when my se 600 got here lol. Thanx for the reply and the bracket stl's
So in the few days of using my 5+ I have noticed the most noise comes from the power supply fan. Mine has the MeanWell 500 in it. I was just wondering if you were to switch to something like a 800 watt supply you would not be stressing it out and I turn it would run cooler and the fan may not need to run at such a high setting. A bigger supply may even have a larger quieter fan to begin with. Any one think of this or try it?
Mine didn't die, but it killed 2 mainboards. Got a Mean Well RSP-500-24 now.
i'm looking to find what size fan is inside, so i can try to replace it with something silent.
My Ender 5 Plus came with a MeanWell RSP 500 preinstalled.. which died a few days ago with a bang... a capacitor blew on powering on the printer. I need a new one and am not sure, if MeanWell is the best option.
The printer never really worked and maybe the often on and off switch action trying to make it work with different hardware specs (checking connections, replacing the stock mainboard with SKR 1.4 Turbo... several Marlin installations... )fried the PSU in the end.
I am unsure how long you had the printer inside prior to firing it up. One of the problems with rapid temperature/humidity changes from a cold to warm environment is condensation. The power supply may have had a lot of condensed moisture forming inside the case. That can lead to all sorts of problems including failure. I've also seen rapid thermal changes create problems with marginal solder joints on a PCB.
It had been inside long enough. I had been working on an upgrade prior to the print.
The components that failed look like in-rush current limiting resistors. It's weird that the second power supply started failing right out of the box. It makes me think that a failing power supply is a symptom of an issue with something in the printer, not the cause. Have any settings been changed that will make the printer draw more power during start up? A beefier power supply could just be masking the real issue as it will allow for more in-rush current. I thought these 3D printers were set up to bring either the hot end, or bed up to temp first, and then bring the other up to temp. This will help reduce the overall draw on the power supply as these heaters require less power once they achieve their setpoint temp.
Hey, you're getting it wrong with how you're talking about Watts. You don't consume Watts or power, you use joules or energy. Power, which is measured in Watts, is the *rate* at which energy is used or transferred from one system to another(Ie: Work). 1 watt is another name for 1 joule-per-second(ie: j/s). The difference between watts and joules is identical to the difference between miles-per-hour(mile/hour) and miles. Or maybe a better comparison is: think about using a pump to fill a swimming pool, it's the difference between the pump's power in gallons-per-minute(gal/min) and an actual gallon of water. You can hold and touch a gallon of water, but a "gallon per minute" isn't a physical thing, just as a "mile per hour" isn't either. Or a Watt for that matter. Energy is what keeps you warm and makes your motors spin, power is how quickly or slowly that happens.
You may actually know this, but it's a concept that *a lot* of people have problems with. I've even met a few EEs who didn't understand the difference, so I try to annoy, er, umm, *teach* this concept when I get the chance. :-)
Thanks very much this mod work for me all I needed was a lot of patience oh and a mosfet extender plate to bring the wires 2" closer. I still would like to see a detail install video. and how does one install M5 x 10, I got the lower two but no luck with all four at the same time.
No problem. If all of the screws won't go in, be sure to check out the part's dimensions versus the model. See if your printer or slicer need calibrating.
My ender 5 pro just arrived yesterday. I already planned to upgrade it to a Duet mainboard for use of dual extruder Chimera system and perhaps if needed, to upgrade the bed for PETG use.
Question: if I add a really huge power supply say 850watts (I rather error on too much rather than too little) is there a risk of too much power? Thanks!
You'll be fine. Power is not pushed, it is pulled/consumed. Therefore, components will not use more than they need.
@@kerseyfabs great thanks. I build computers so I think in t terms of that but 3d printing is new to me going solo. I have a very good idea of what I want and may need but I do love options, in my experience having as many options available saves time and money as the need to add components is greatly reduced. A very large power supply will do just that. Thanks!
I did not see anyone suggest this - you could heat up only the bed first, then once it is at operating temperature, heat up the hot end. You could even partially heat the bed, say to 50 C, then wait a few minutes, and heat it the rest of the way, and that may make enough difference that the stock power supply will hold up.
The problem is, you can't control the heating a cooling cycles during printing. I'm sure that the cycles coincide many times during printing. My power supply died in the middle of a print, not during pre-heat.
@@kerseyfabs If the heating system uses a heating element with a positive thermal coefficient of resistance, then gradual heat-up will make a big difference. As the heater gets warmer, its resistance may dramatically increase, reducing the current and the power draw. You could easily measure this by heating the table to its typical temperature and monitoring the power draw in the beginning and at the steady state.
You should also measure the output of the power supply instead of the input, since the efficiency can vary drastically between different designs. The closest Cheng Liang power supply I could find specs for is this one: www.alibaba.com/product-detail/AC-DC-24V-21A-500W-LED_60521320043.html , but from the brief glimpse at the PCB in the video it seems to use a really basic regulation design so I wouldn't trust that spec for a second.
By the way, I found this amusing video about the company ua-cam.com/video/qJ3_d7bgjto/v-deo.html -- they don't exactly play in the same ballpark as Mean Well or Delta...
I just purchased an Ender 5 Plus a few days ago (8/16/2020) and mine came with a Meanwell RSP 500-24 pre installed however there is no voltage selector ?
That's normal. The Meanwell is an auto-switching supply, so no need for a physical switch.
I think you are right. Chenglian are actually high quality power supplies and are on par with the Meanwell LRS series. They don't have higher end tiers with additional features like the Meanwell SE/MSP/PFC/RSP series but aren't some random generic of questionable quality.
One thing I noticed you didn't mention was about the difference between rated output power and the wall draw you where measuring.
So the 600 watt power power suply you have is listed at 87% efficency, so that's an output power of about 500.25 watts.
The 500w power supply at 89% typical effiecence would be drawing about 555 watts from the wall.
I actually mentioned that at 9:45 in the video when I compared my numbers to TH3D's numbers. I did the best with the tools I had at the time. Since then, I've upgraded my multimeter. Thanks for checking my numbers though!
@@kerseyfabs Apologies, Yes you did. I just didn't go back and re listen to that bit.
When you where talking about the power supply specs is what got my attention on the topic.
No problem. I try to be as clear as possible. This was a case of possibly not mentioning it enough.
I just wanted to note that Creality now ships the Ender 5 Plus with the RSP-500 (at least the one I got). I dont know whether you are aware of this.
Yes. I've heard reports from most people. That's terrific news!
This is why I bought the ender 5 plus that came with the Meanwell PSU.
I believe they all do at this point.
I ended up using a Meanwell UHP-500 fan less supply not failed yet, I am about to add a enclosure heater to this setup
I may give that a shot! Keep some airflow going on it though.
I just hate the fan from the original meanwell psu, did you use this specific one? www.meanwell-web.com/en-gb/meanwell-uhp-500/uhp-500-24/ac-dc-slim-single-output-enclosed-power-supply-uhp--500--24?returnurl=%2fen-gb%2fmeanwell-uhp-500%2fuhp-500-24%2f%23uhp-500-24
Thanks for all you videos and awesome content!
My Ender 5 Plus won't turn on anymore and I thought it might be the power supply. However I've taken the chassis apart and it seems as though the power supply is ok. There is power from it to the boards. However the fan doesn't run nor does anything show up on the display. Nothing looks "zorched" inside the power supply. Could it possibly be the main board itself? I do see that an led on the main board when i plug in my raspberry pi running OctoPrint.
That sucks! It pretty much has to be the power supply or the mainboard. Which one it is, I can't be sure. It's pretty easy to test the supply with a multimeter though. If you plug it in, you should get 24V across one of the black and red DC terminals. Make sure you know what you're doing if you test this.
@@kerseyfabs i bought the 600w mean well and it powers up, display works, so MB is good. however i'm about to replace the MB with the silent board now. Thanks for such marvelous aids!
You only ever want to use 80% of the quoted power supply rating for efficient trouble free operation. In your testing you got a 650w draw, another UA-camr you say quoted 700w. Therefore an 850w power supply is the ideal solution. It wasn't the heat in your home that killed your supply, it was the drawing of 650w through a 500w psu, though it wouldn't help as components heated up due to the overload.
I've been thinking a lot about this and I think I have a simple, inexpensive solution. It's called a split power supply. All that needs done is to add a second identical power supply in parallel (electrically) to the first. It's actually pretty simple and since the original PSU is such a cheap POS it won't even be expensive. The terminals of the two supplies need to be wired to each other one for one making sure to use wires sized for the loads. Doing this will not alter the voltage at all but will double the available current. Now, having said this you will still have two POS power supplies that will probably fail prematurely but not from being overloaded. The alternative is to do the same thing with two quality supplies and spend a little more. The second supply can be mounted anywhere that's convenient and safe. Anyone wanting to research this can google "parallel power supplies". I didn't invent it. BTW, I believe all Creality printers can be improved the same way.
Please do not connect two power supplies in parallel. They will not put out exactly the same output voltage. The one that has a slightly higher output voltage will end up carrying most of the load, even if it is 0.01 V higher.
A coworker tried to do exactly what you described except with 3 in parallel. He never got the current he wanted and the system would not work properly.
There are power supplies that are designed to be connected in parallel. They are connected to a master controller that adjusts the output voltage of each one until the output currents for all the power supplies are roughly equal. They will be much more expensive than even the top quality power supplies that are meant to work on their own.
@@philso7872 Thanks for your warning but I've done this before in my work. It's no different than connecting batteries in parallel. I can't diagnose your friends problem but I will be OK. I will say that the outputs need to be connected to common cathode diodes so as to not backfeed each other.
@@ramtek2702 You were lucky that it worked for you if you happen to get two power supplies that match closely enough. Did you measure the output currents of the two power supplies to ensure that they shared the current roughly equally, including when the ambient temperature changes? Did you ensure that the power supplies were stable i.e their control loops did not oscillate.
While you may have been lucky and had it work for you. It is very likely that it will not work for someone else. Most of these power supplies are rated to have up to 5% variance in their output voltage. That is more than enough for them to not share correctly. The common cathode diodes only ensure that they do not backfeed each other. They do not make them share in any way.
The coworker who tried to connect 3 power supplies in parallel had to do it a different way. I had told him that it would not work before he tried. We lost a lot of time because he would not listen.
@@philso7872 You don't understand. I designed this parallel supply into a product. The supplies were taken out of their box and installed into the product. There are many of them running right now as I write this and have been running for years.
I'm having issues with my ender 5 regarding bed adhesion. It seems that between the home position and starting the raft the nozzel is beginning to extrude before the bed raises back up. Any suggestions?
I doubt that's actual extrusion. It's probably prepping of the nozzle from your start g-code. Let me know if you think it's something different.
@@kerseyfabs I'm uniformly missing the first inch and a half or so of any given raft outline i print. Sometimes it sticks regardless but I've got multiple prints now that have just popped off the bed because of it.
Did you ever release the video you mentioned here about the full installation of the new power supply??
I didn't do an additional video. What kind of replacement supply do you mean? The one I did on the back or a replacement internal one?
@@kerseyfabs I bought the same 600 watt power supply that you installed in this video.