Comparing Rodinal, HC110 & Xtol
Вставка
- Опубліковано 21 лют 2022
- Which is the best developer for me....
The Gear
Video - kit.co/Patrick.Doyle/video-kit
Nikon Lenses - kit.co/Patrick.Doyle/video-kit
Photo Accessories - kit.co/Patrick.Doyle/photo-ac...
Camera Bodies - kit.co/Patrick.Doyle/camera-b...
Really thorough video! Thank you
Thank you for this. It's been years since I developed any B&W film at all. I made the switch to Digital and I never looked back. I currently use a mirrorless Canon body and discovered the wonders of all these other manual lens that I can easily adapt to my Canon camera now days. Which led me to owning a fair collection of Konica Hexanon AR lenses (a very under rated series of amazing lenses). And in buy a lens I was after, I ended up with a great little, fully functional Konica FC-1 body. It sat there for a long time not getting any love or batteries. Then I put some batteries into it just to see if it worked and it did. And that's when the idea of shoot film started to grow in my head. I have a wonderful collection of Konica AR mount lenses to put onto both my Canon mirrorless and the Konica FC-1. And I have all the stuff to develop my own film. I just need new chemicals. D-76 lasts a long time, but not two decades! But to do this right, I would need to scan the film to digitize it. If I'm not gonna pay to have film developed, I'm not gonna pay for film to be scanned. And I already had a vintage macro bellows system. I just needed the slide copier which was an added part to the bellows system. I found that locally for cheap and in near perfect condition. Just add a nice RGBW LED panel behind the copier and I'm on my way. So I started by scanning some of the thousands of B&W negatives I have still to see if it was actually going to work. And it does, very well actually! Its doing what it was meant to do. There was no need to modify any of the parts. It already had a slot for 35mm film strips, which I found interesting. This bellows and copier was made back in the late 60's to early 70's. And it was mainly meant for copying Color slide film, which is a positive image. Hmmm... anyhow, it works perfectly because that's what it was made to do. Then just add an appropriate M42 mount 50mm lens (of which I have many to choose from) and I was scanning my B&W negative film.
inspirational -thanks ill give it a go
I would love to see a similar test for traditional (cubic?) film stock such as FP4 to find the "best" option for those films.
Great job. Thanks a lot👏🤘
Thanks for taking the time to do this and share. And no, not lazy. A lazy person would not have gone to this trouble.
The results are what we should expect based on the characteristics of the developers, except that I expected a somewhat higher density difference between the intermittent and continuously agitated Xtol negatives. An extension of the comparison for a future video might be the difference between 30 second, 60 second intervals, and continuous agitation. In theory, the 60 second interval process should give the highest apparent sharpness and the continuous agitation the lowest. Would expect those differences to be very subtle. Nice video
Great video. I have been using Rodinal for many years and like the punchy looks produced by it. Xtol, to me, looks a bit dull, but obviously this is just personal preference.
Thanks for the great video! I also prefer XTOL. The only better developer might be 510 Pyro, but unfotunately it's quite poisonous.
That's great, thanks. I abandoned Rodinal more than 20 years ago and have wondered what all the fuss was about, but I'm not going back. Been using HC110 for a long time and am quite happy, but following this video I'm going to covert to XTOL. Hopefully it'll suit all my film formats, especially 120. You created a very thorough vide and the outcome is clear. Be keen to see HP5 similarly tested. Cheers.
Rodinal is nor recommended for Delta grain films. I get awesome results with Ilford films, just not the Delta grain, or T-max films, for that matter.
Thanks, very interesting although FP4 is my main film. I am trying out a new developer from Flic Film here in Canada, called Black&White&Green because it is supposedly eco-friendly. It seems to be the same chemistrt as Xtol, though a different formulation so maybe bot the same proportions. So far it is giving very similar resilts to HC-110 dil B inversion dev'ing. Pretty happy with it.
Xtol has an astonishing ability to tame grain. I recently developed some kentmere 400 pushed to 3200 and the images came out….ok
I do like xtol too… or xt3 from adox. I used to work with d76 but this is my favourite now. I heard that it should be careful with it, suddenly it get’s corrupted
Have you got any experience of diluted rotation developement? Can it be a good idea to use 1+1 or 1+3 and use it as a one shot developer? I once had a Jobo ATL1000 machine and I liked it a lot.
Mid 1950 I used Plus X and Microdol X. Microdol is gone so time to move on. Rodinal tried and too much grain. Used D76 for decades 1:1 and was happy.
Yeah i'm gonna buy some xtol i guess
I mean with Xtol of course.
Great comparison. I think home folks are finally catching on. I've only using the one lab in my region that uses XTOL for about 7 years now for roll that I really care about. Have been wanting to start a replenishment at home for nearly as long but just don't have the space for it. XTOL and Delta 400 pushed +1 is my absolutely favorite everyday b&w look.
very good, have you tried Pyrocat HD its also a fantastic developer