Testing Rodinal Dilutions with Ilford Ortho under Safelight
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- Опубліковано 25 сер 2024
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ABOUT THIS VIDEO
Off I go again playing with Ortho and Rodinal.
Test 1
1/25 6.5 Minutes
Test 2
1/50 15 Mins
Test 3
1/25 Continuous Inversions 2 Mins
Test 4
1/25 Continuous Inversions 3 Mins
Test 5
Stand Dev.
EQUIPMENT USED
CAMERA - Olympus OM20
FILM - Ortho 80
DEVELOPER - Rodinal (RO9)
STOP & FIX - Fotospeed
ENLARGER - DURST M605
PAPER -
DEVELOPER -
STOP & FIX - FOTOSPEED
PRODUCTION GEAR
CANON 6D, GOPRO 7 BLACK, TASCAM DR10L MIC, SENHEISSER SHOTGUN MIC,
NEEWER LED PANELS, GVM COLOUR PANELS,
Editing - FCP, PHOTOSHOP, LIGHTROOM
ABOUT MY VIDEOS
If my videos inspire, create ideas and help others in film photography and darkroom work then it's worth making them.
I always welcome comments that are useful towards the video subject that will help others understand the process within.
Keep shooting and thanks for watching.
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Hi i have always wondered how the development process would look as the image is being made, of interest was the fixing, watching the film clear. It is has been the best experience of the picture making process for me since seeing a print being formed. Thank you for doing these sort of experiments 👍📸🥂
For those considering setting up a darkroom, it’s a great way to remain creative in winter months or during lockdown. There is simply no comparison between a scanned and developed darkroom print. I set mine up in my office and take the results to the kitchen sink for washing, so it’s possible to do without a dedicated space. Treat yourselves!
Another interesting video. A first seeing film develop under safelight for me. Thanks again Roger.
Ilford Ortho is an outstanding film with the following procedure : Expose at 40 asa (incident light metering), presoak for 5 minutes at 20°C, process in Microphen 1+3 for 12 minutes at 20°C, as for agitation ... 10 seconds every 6O... no further comment.
Really cool being able to watch this process!
Thanks for doing that!
Thanks for this! Really enjoy your videos. Your approach to all these is second to none. Keep up the excellent work.
Much appreciated!
I always appreciate your tests, results and energy!
oooh, I've got an illford sportsman too! its a bit fogged though, haven't tried shooting with it.
I’ve been enjoying your videos for quite a while and just thought I’d say how much I’m enjoying your work. It’s great to see a real down to earth bloke getting on with film and showing us how it really is in the real world, even when things might not work out as you expected.
You’ve no doubt been influential in my decision to do darkroom printing rather than just developing and scanning my work as I’ve been doing so far. I’ve assembled everything I need at little cost from Gumtree and am more excited than I expected so see what happens on my very first go! Watching you at work has given me confidence that I know just what to do and have high expectations!
I’ve had a few holidays to the Isle of Wight which adds an extra level of interest for me but I was wondering, if generally confined to the island do you ever feel limited in subject matter? Also, do you plan to attend the Photography Show this September at the NEC, the analogue spotlight area will be there again and bigger than ever I suppose. There are many interesting talks to attend and interesting people to meet.
Thanks Peter. I may attend the show. Long way from me here. I do like most of us get bored of the same scenes. Of course there are the seasons which break things up a bit. And sea and landscapes are always different with dramatic sky's. I love street photography and that is mainly where I get same old because the streets I've walked a thousand times. It's nice to get off and get some new
Instructions unclear, will be using thyme water from now on to develop my films
Thyme is more important than water. lol
Try Holy Water. It does miracles.
An idea for a future Wednesday wonder: Would placing a B&W negative on top of a strip of ortho film under a safelight with some glass, then exposing it briefly to white light as if you were making a contact print, make a good positive image when developed?
Good idea Dominic. I may try that see what happens!
Another wicked video.... 👍
Glad you enjoyed it
Always, and although I see the serious side I also see the funny side of some of your antics I.e robbing your wife and daughter's stuff 😂
@@malcsayer7133 HA HA. I can only be me Malc. Going live Saturday night for YT members. 7pm Uk Time.
As a lazy guy, I prefer stand developing. But here you can clearly see that a 1:50 and 1:25 solution gives a much better effect.
I have a shot glass too for rodinal. 😅 Thanks for the video!
Intersting test and video 👍🏻
From my experience with rotary development a 15% reduction for development time yields the best results. This also seems to be the suggestions from the info sheets by the manufacturers.
Your videos are really cool and it's such great fun looking at you especially when I can't go myself to my darkroom! A little advice if I may: developement times and concentration should be adjusted depending on the contrast of the scene. This is such an important tool to get easily printable negative in the majority of the scenes; this dooes require some little tests because it all depends on your entire system (enlarger, paper, paper developer etc.) and so dev times can't be unique for everybody and every scene. It's something worth taking a look at. Tests seem boring but they sure make you save lots of time and paper once you've done them ;) ! Cheers!
Of course. A contrasty scene outside on a bright sunny day , develop slightly less time. ?
@@ShootFilmLikeaBoss Exactly! The basis of the zone system is "expose for the shadows and develop for the highlight" . A very rough advice if you don't want to test anything is the following:
- From medium to high contrast scenes, set the ISO of your film at half the box speed and reduce the developement time of about the 30% of the one decleared by the manufacturer;
- For low contrast scenes expose at box speed and develop for the time indicated by the manufacturer.
Otherwise a simple test could be this: expose 3 scenes, one high contrast, one medium and one low contrast. Each scene must be exposed with a wide bracketing (box speed, 1 stop underexposure, and 1-2 stops overexposure, 4 shots in total). The exposures must be repeated in three different rolls (or film stripes if you can cut them) that will be developed separately. Develope the first roll for the manufacturer time, the second for 30% less and the 3rd for 50% less. With these three rolls you will be able to see what ISO are best for each contrast and even more important what dev time is best for each contrast. It's a little long but it pays off.
Manufacturers dev times are just suggestions and I would defenitely not look at the massive dev chart if you want more accurate results ;) . It's a bit long but I hope I can help you! If you have more doubts just ask! Keep up the good stuff, I really love your channel!
@@micheledesantis5762 @Shoot Film Like a Boss, that would be a great test to see (if I may suggest)
Thank you for these tests and the explains about. Actually, i also wanted to see the printed test 1/25 Continuous Inversions 3 Mins just curious to compare it to test 1 or 2. thank you
Thanks for sharing
I missed the episode when you asked about darkrooms so I'll add it here...Small closet darkroom that I can print up to 11x14 in.
It's on the community tab Steve. Thanks for the info
If you ever have money to spare you should buy a Sony a7s III for filming in the darkroom. You may even be able to dim the safelight more.
I use a Canon 6D. Normally at ISO 6400 UNDER THE RED LIGHT!
Have you ever tried Stand development with Table Salt ? another idea for a Wednesday Wonder perhaps.
HA HA, no! Does it work? How long!
So, you can fix in day/white light? Excellent video - oops , just re-watched and see I missed the bit about not fixing in daylight!
I wouldn't recommend it Chris. I just did it for video .
Did the stand development take a long 'thyme' ;-)
'1 second shutter speed' ??? What about 'Reciprocity Failure due to the 1 second and also is it not true that ORTHO film is not up to 'Box Speed' under 'Tungsten Lights' if they contain a lot of wavelengths in the RED end ?
It's fine at 1s Pete. And the bulb isn't tungsten. It's a white bulb. It it was tungsten I'd have to shoot it at 40 ISO.
Thanks. As always interesting and well explained. One (stupid) question: why use (slow) Ortho film? Surely not because you can have some light all the time in the darkroom?
It's the only Ortho I have lol
Very interesting video!
I wonder if a special camera would be useful for your experiments with single frames - I have two very old Exakta cameras, as far as I know all of them since the first pre-war 1936 Kine Exakta version have a built-in internal cutter to cut off a piece of exposed film, right on at the cassette. As far as I know, this solution was not widespread in other cameras. The 1960s-1970s Exakta are still available at the flea market, fairly cheap, often in good condition, and require no repair, although sometimes they are. Maybe it's worth trying? Oh, I love to use my old Exakta cameras a lot, but personally I have never used that built-in knife before. Just thought it was probably a useful tool. Best regards.
I never knew they existed. Very Interesting.
@@ShootFilmLikeaBoss I just found a photo on the internet:
images.app.goo.gl/tH56kyAoxe1uHoe4A
My Exakta Varex VX from 1956 allows you to use a detachable and open-close cassette instead of a take-up reel - then you can cut off a longer section of the exposed film from the camera, conveniently and safely in the daylight, which you develop, and then continue shooting at the rest of the film from the original cassette.
Thats awesome! Thanks for sharing...
@@ShootFilmLikeaBoss You are welcome! I am glad that I could be useful for something.
Funny enough my first slr was a 1956 exacta I bought for 2 bucks in like 2004. I used that thing a bunch and loved it including the knife and ability to have a light tight take up canister. After I got more in to cameras and got a few more I actually missed having that knife action huge. So convenient to have all your exposed film already wound straight in to an empty light tight canister. And it meant you could switch films as often as you wanted to, and in daylight. Sadly it got to the point where I couldn't touch up the light leaks in the curtain shutters anymore, so I took it apart to start putting new curtains in it and its been in a shoe box in pices for 10 years probably. One day all actually fix it because they are a truly sweet camera to use, all though a bit ass backwards if your used to a more modern slr control setup.
Curious. I would have thought that 1+50 would give lower contrast than 1+25. Perhaps 15 minutes is a little too long. I would have rated the film @ iso 50 and just developed for 11 minutes a starter. Thanks for this video.
I expected that also! But I saw no difference visually. Maybe it's cooked at 15 mins!
@@ShootFilmLikeaBoss Curious. On my laptop the 15 minute exposure shows more contrast. The background is lighter than the exposure at 6.5 minutes and the shadow to midtone contrast is slightly higher too.
First comment 💪🏻
Edited: btw nice and informative video 😊👌🏻
Legend!
Any difference in noticeable grain between the Stand dev and the 1:25 negs.?
Not a great deal as it was but I did say that stand print would have needed longer under the enlarger with contrast filters so after that possibly would show more grain than 1/25.
rodinal is more grainy than d76？do u recommend rodinal for 135？
For 135 I found it good for Trix, xp2, tmax100 and fp4. I also found it good for neopan400/1600 but that's long discontinued.
Did not like it for Delta 3200(unsurprisingly), hp5, foma 200+400 (liked it for 120)
@@jonnoMoto ok， thanks for your info.
For me it depends what I want. If I want gritty street shots TRI_X 400 and Rodinal work well. D76, from my experience, is cleaner.
I assume your stand development was at 1:100 (you didn't specify). The result for stand was so weak you must not have had enough R09 in there for that piece of film to develop completely. The developer ran out before the film fully developed.
It was 1/100. I used 0.5ml in the jar. Ha Ha. Probably as you say.