Just a little tip on using the magnets.If you put a rubber glove over the end of it.When you're doing dirty work, you can peel the rubber glove off and then have a clean magnet.So you don't have to worry about getting different places and shouldn't be
strong work sir. My son and I are tackling his 97 XJ that has had a total of 3 overheating events, per him. The last one lead to a hard to start and "spiffing" out of the front left area of the head. We're pulling the last bit including the head tomorrow and I'll take it to the engine shop on Monday for testing.
NEVER just go from 45 ft-lbs to 110/100 without at least one step in between. THAT is how you break cylinder head bolts, or any high torque bolt of the matter. Go to 85 or so in between, and you can prevent that from happening. The FSM seems to state 45 to 100/110 which is pretty sketchy. Go slow and torque the head EVENLY, and you got yourself a successful job.
The little threaded plug for the back right of the head, I think, is 3/8 NPT. Bolt threads are different than plumbing threads. I had to get a brass one from Home Depot and tighten it in stages with some brass being cut off from the iron head. I also had a bolt break on install, which was infuriating. It may not be your torque wrench. The FelPro bolts I used are a newer generation torque-to-yield design in the steel, but the original torque spec is 22-45-110. So it's NOT a torque click and then angle rotation that newer stuff uses. Torque-to-yield steel is more "stretchy" so it's easier to get it to the correct spec. HOWEVER, they are one and done. I hope your other bolts that you already tightened hold up over the long haul. Unless the broken bolt was faulty, it may be the case that they need time to cool off before you get all the way up to 110. My mechanic used 22-45-80-100-110 to get them all tightened down so that gave them time to cool down before you step up to 110. Great videos, I'm glad your camshaft mated to the new lifters.
@@JeepinJimmy The new head you bought is the same one I got. For some models of XJs the coolant temperature sensor and the engine temperature sensor are separate. I guess that head is a universal one that can mate to many different versions of 4.0L short block.
Yes it's for the coolant temperature sender for the gauge on the 87-95 models. I bet another solution would be to just buy that sensor and thread it in there, and leave it disconnected. Seems odd to me they don't include a stopper bolt for the 96+ models without that sensor
Yup unfortunately the made in china part screwed me over, My new head that I got from Clearwater Had casting holes under the valve seals going all the way through the valve seats and was causing tons of oil to get burnt. So I had to do the job twice, They warranted my head but it sucked having do twice during the winter
@@JeepinJimmyI'm at 130k so I just bought pushrods with the new head + valves + springs from Clearwater. I'm pretty sure the lifters are good since the engine is running smooth. I just finished putting a new heater core in 2 weeks ago. When it rains it pours😒And Thanks for the response and posting the video.
I think the block is fine, I did 3 oil changes after this and there is no more coolant in the oil. Oil pressure still sucks so gonna throw in a new oil pump in the next vid and if we still have low oil pressure it's likely the cam bearings went and I will need to look for a motor.
@@JeepinJimmywhy are those head are bad? My is 2000 with 200 + thousand with no problems. Do u think it could be the maintenance? Or whats the reason those head crack
@@jotherphen16 same here with my other 2000 XJ. Over 200k with no problems. I feel like they are sensitive to heat and if you ever overheat they will fail quicker. Just a guess tho
![Jeep Cherokee: Cylinder Head Gasket Replacement Procedure/ 0331 TUPY 4.0L ['96-'01 XJ]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/j_uNYbUiASg/mqdefault.jpg)
This gold one is highlighting just how skilled a mechanic you are. Very impressive👍🏻
Thank you!
Very cool video. Had new camshaft, lifters, timing chain installed at Dealership on my 2001 XJ March 2022. Drives strong. Good luck with your XJ’s🎉
Right on! Thanks man
Just a little tip on using the magnets.If you put a rubber glove over the end of it.When you're doing dirty work, you can peel the rubber glove off and then have a clean magnet.So you don't have to worry about getting different places and shouldn't be
Right on man, im definitely going to try this!
strong work sir. My son and I are tackling his 97 XJ that has had a total of 3 overheating events, per him. The last one lead to a hard to start and "spiffing" out of the front left area of the head. We're pulling the last bit including the head tomorrow and I'll take it to the engine shop on Monday for testing.
Right on! Good luck with the project!
Thank you for showing your knowledge buddy!
Thanks for watching!
You’re doing great. Hang in there!
Thanks! I did 3 more oil changes and there is no more coolant in the oil!
@@JeepinJimmy good to know. Im about to start mine next week after my cylinder head arrives. It had blown head gaskets
NEVER just go from 45 ft-lbs to 110/100 without at least one step in between. THAT is how you break cylinder head bolts, or any high torque bolt of the matter. Go to 85 or so in between, and you can prevent that from happening. The FSM seems to state 45 to 100/110 which is pretty sketchy. Go slow and torque the head EVENLY, and you got yourself a successful job.
The little threaded plug for the back right of the head, I think, is 3/8 NPT. Bolt threads are different than plumbing threads. I had to get a brass one from Home Depot and tighten it in stages with some brass being cut off from the iron head.
I also had a bolt break on install, which was infuriating. It may not be your torque wrench. The FelPro bolts I used are a newer generation torque-to-yield design in the steel, but the original torque spec is 22-45-110. So it's NOT a torque click and then angle rotation that newer stuff uses. Torque-to-yield steel is more "stretchy" so it's easier to get it to the correct spec. HOWEVER, they are one and done. I hope your other bolts that you already tightened hold up over the long haul. Unless the broken bolt was faulty, it may be the case that they need time to cool off before you get all the way up to 110. My mechanic used 22-45-80-100-110 to get them all tightened down so that gave them time to cool down before you step up to 110.
Great videos, I'm glad your camshaft mated to the new lifters.
Right on thanks! I wonder what the purpose for the plug is in the first place? Factory head did not have anything like that.
@@JeepinJimmy The new head you bought is the same one I got. For some models of XJs the coolant temperature sensor and the engine temperature sensor are separate. I guess that head is a universal one that can mate to many different versions of 4.0L short block.
Yes it's for the coolant temperature sender for the gauge on the 87-95 models. I bet another solution would be to just buy that sensor and thread it in there, and leave it disconnected. Seems odd to me they don't include a stopper bolt for the 96+ models without that sensor
kudos for tackling the infamous "made in China" head replacement.
Thanks!
Yup unfortunately the made in china part screwed me over, My new head that I got from Clearwater Had casting holes under the valve seals going all the way through the valve seats and was causing tons of oil to get burnt.
So I had to do the job twice, They warranted my head but it sucked having do twice during the winter
The oil pump is probably fine. The pump is designed to pump oil through the motor, not water, not mixture of oil and water.
Did you use new push rods and rocker arms or just use the old ones?
New pushrods, old rocker arms
@@JeepinJimmyI'm at 130k so I just bought pushrods with the new head + valves + springs from Clearwater. I'm pretty sure the lifters are good since the engine is running smooth. I just finished putting a new heater core in 2 weeks ago. When it rains it pours😒And Thanks for the response and posting the video.
I also have a Comanche 1988 could you be able to help me to figure out what kind of transmission is the right one I have problem shifting
Right on!
Luckily you have an engine hoist lol
I had to do it every time by myself by hand, it sucked!!
For sure!
Man that sucks Jimmy..You think the block might be cracked somewhere??
I think the block is fine, I did 3 oil changes after this and there is no more coolant in the oil. Oil pressure still sucks so gonna throw in a new oil pump in the next vid and if we still have low oil pressure it's likely the cam bearings went and I will need to look for a motor.
But it does hold oil pressure cold?
Maybe try something thick as goo like Lucas!
Is the head bolt 1/2 inch by 12 point and 1/2 inch drive? I mean the socket size to get the head bolt off. A deep socket?
which engine is better the 2000/2001 or 1999/1997
2000/2001 have the 0331 heads that are prone to cracking. I would avoid those years for a swap, but it would not keep me from buying a 2000 or 2001 XJ
@@JeepinJimmywhy are those head are bad? My is 2000 with 200 + thousand with no problems. Do u think it could be the maintenance? Or whats the reason those head crack
@@jotherphen16 same here with my other 2000 XJ. Over 200k with no problems. I feel like they are sensitive to heat and if you ever overheat they will fail quicker. Just a guess tho
Ага ,попробуй его без этого оборудования,заебёшся,уж поверь,и не надо мне тут мастера строить,если не знаешь что такое на своих руках носить