TREMEC TKO/TKX Install, Part 2: How to remove the bell housing dowel pins? I'm struggling!
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- Опубліковано 30 лип 2024
- Warning! I've never done this before! Should be fun! Subscribe to watch this engine build and re-installation it into my 1969 Pontiac GTO Restomod, in my home garage! If I can do this at home, so can you! "How to install a TREMEC, Part 2: How to remove the bell housing alignment pins", can be applied to all TREMEC installs. This particular Tremec TKO 600 was sourced from Silver Sport Transmissions who provide "PerfectFit" kits for ALL makes and models of classic muscle cars, and trucks too! Link below.
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This is a very thorough description of what to do, how to do it, and what to watch out for. Mike is at the tail end of rebuilding his Pontiac 400, which is now a Butler Performance 467, because a Roller Lifter Broke! (see link below).
Here's a link to Silver Sport Transmission's "PerfectFit" transmission kits. For all makes and models!
shiftsst.com/?...
Subscribe by clicking this link; ua-cam.com/users/fastmontysgarage?sub_conf...
Here's the original Hydraulic Roller Lifter Fail Inspection, and process:
• Something is still WRO...
Here's the Official Part 1, where Mike starts the preparation of Engine removal
• Pontiac V8 Camshaft Re...
Enjoy, and ask questions by leaving a comment below... See you on the other side!
See the build pics, before and after, at www.fastmontysgarage.com
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#builtnotbought #PontiacV8 #TREMEC - Авто та транспорт
Be sure to subscribe for more, click here; ua-cam.com/users/fastmontysgarage Then get your FMG hat here; three color combos www.etsy.com/shop/fastmontysgarage
im a pontiac guy who knows 2nd gen firebirds. I'm impressed how quick you pick things up and your attention to detail. i have removed these down pins in a less painfull manner. HEAT!..
When working on 50 plus year old stuff. heat is your friend.
Some pb blaster/ heat Nd vice grips the came out somewhat easy..
Another trick a friend taught me is to weld a not on it so you can either turn it or have more surface area to use a larger puller on it.
Hope the advice might help you in future projects if you dont already know them which im guessing you might.
Youve done a awesome job with your Dads GTO...Keep up the great work and the great presentations.
I wish i could get you to work on my 74 Trans Am..your attention to detail.... very few people have it.
Thanks for the tips... yeah, I've learning a lot on this project. Thanks again!
@FastMonty From what ive seen youve learned more skills to work on that car than most ever will.. my channel is much smaller and I don't do tutorials like you do . I figure I'll leave that up the guys like you that have a great presentation and show how to do it the right way. Mine is more about the choices I make on my car and why I make them with progress updates as I go. I do get a lot of inspiration from yourself and some of the other Pontiac UA-camrs that just have a passion for it to continue to push forward with my channel. Like I said keep up the great work we need more Pontiac enthusiasts like yourself. You've got me wanting a 69 or 70 gto. LOL
I just did this job with the engine in the car and was able to get both pins out pretty easily. Sharing my method, hopefully it helps somebody. I used a 5/8 - 11 hex die to cut threads into the OD of the pins. Then I was able to use a regular 5/8 nut and some washers to drive them out. The only difficult part was getting the die to make an initial bite on the pins. After that each pin was out in 5-10 minutes.
Great Idea! Thanks for sharing!
haha this was so satisfying on so many levels... 1) that I'm not the only one 2) that you also struggled immensely 3) that you eventually succeeded :) hope I have the same luck.
Ha! Excellent summary of how we all feel, for any project. Keep at it, and we all succeed. Thanks for the comment!
Just about to tackle this, here's to fair winds and soft metals! Thanks for the tip!
Ha! May the force be with you!
@@FastMonty the tap just broke in the first hole, just my luck.
This is a great channel. Thanks for doing these videos and putting yourself out there. These will help a lot and motivate people to tackle their dream builds
Thanks Paul! I really appreciate it... that's definitely the intent, is to inspire others. Thanks again!
This method was perfect! Spent $20 rather than $170! Thanks!
Awesome! Glad it helped!
"Can you imagine doing this in the car?" Yes... Yes I can. I almost cried when the pin came out. Thanks for this video.
Ha! I can only imagine... I feel your pain. Glad you got it out! Keep us posted with any other hurdles or questions. Thanks for the comment!
I'm doing an LS, but that was worth watching. I wont soon forget that...Genius
Thanks! Glad it gave you some inspiration. Thanks for the comment!
what a great idea. I was planning to do the same, but had no idea how i would remove those pins! thank you for the vid!
Yeah, crazy how sometime I figure it out, by accident. Glad it helped!
Genius idear on the bolt! I was thinking of drilling close to pin size then bang it out gently. Good job!
Thanks! Crazy how we sometimes come up with ideas... good luck gettin yours out!
That seems like a solid idea👍 Thanks for trying everything I was about to try on this LS too😂
Ha! You're welcome! Good luck!
Great videos. Very helpful. I'm getting ready to do this job in the car.
Thanks Rick! And, congrats on your project, holler if you have any questions. See ya!
Definitely a great video, the pins in an LSX block would NOT budge. Drift & 2lb hammer? Nope. Vice Grips? Nope. Drill, tap and extract - winner. In the video notice that he is using a thick washer, you will need one of these or a couple of washers so they're strong enough that they don't just wad up and pull into the socket.
Thanks Bill! Good to know LSX's can suffer from the same issue. Thanks again for the comment.
Great job. Instead of drilling the dowel pin. I tack welded a bolt on the dowel pins and had them off in a few minutes.
Ohhh yeah, that'll work. I was trying to approach the solution without welding, because not everyone has a welder. But, totally agree, that's a great way to do it, if you have a welder handy. Thanks for the comment!
Fast Ponty ,You Did A Fine Job ,After You Got Out Of Your Own Way ,That Is The Best Way To Pull A Locator ,Another Idea Is To Weld A Nut To The Locator ,Then Slide Hammer It Out , Thank You For Your Video !!!
Thanks Greg! Yeah, I have a fun time figuring things out... turns out the solution can be done by anyone, without buying specialized tools. Thanks for watching!
Love your comments, bro. Sounds like me troubleshooting. Great video!
Ha! Thanks brother! Just keeping it real.
Exactly what I thought when watching this! 🤣 I'm at this part of my install now too... haven't measured the runout yet, so hopefully no removal!
Awesome video worked like a charm and I actually accomplished this with the motor in the car!!!
Awesome! Glad it helped! What car you working on?
@@FastMonty 78 transam swapping in a T56 Magnum
@@weatehrman YES! That's gonna be awesome!
@@FastMonty haha it better be the Mrs is getting tired of me throwing money at the car
@@weatehrman Ha! I heard that!
Thanks for the video. I need to do something similar with the engine in the car.
You're welcome! And good luck! Keep us posted...
Came here looking for confirmation of my thoughts since I hadn’t removed dowels before, but no. Get a propane torch to heat the dowel, and a hammer and punch (or similar) to knock it out from the forward end of the block. It’s not that difficult. Just swapped two from a junk BB Chevrolet to a junk LS for mock up.
It's not quite that easy, on Pontiac Blocks. Hence my comment at the 2:05 mark... it's a BLIND hole, not a through hole like on a Chevy Big Block. So, it can only be pulled, hence the drama. Good luck on your LS swap!
Yea...sbc here has blind holes also...and dosnt heat expand metal? Lol
Great video 👍
Thanks 👍
Ingredients:
#1 Will Power
#2 Determination
#3 Injinuity
Equals SUCCESS!!!
That was great.
Thanks for the comment... yeah, those pins were terrible. As it goes.. .Persistence always beats Resistance. Ha, ha... thanks again!
Thanks again... always fun to find unique solutions.
Awesome job. Son and I will try this soon too as we are going from Auto to Manual and need a spacer between block and bellhousing and will need put longer pins in. We were looking at kits to pull them and yeah 100 to 200 bucks for one time use meh and this looks like it will work.
Awesome! Take your time, and be patient... ask if something doesn't make sense. Have fun!
@@FastMonty We sure will. We have an 89 bird did engine swap last year a 70s 400 eng bored to 406 was a 350 in car. also did rear end to the Moser M9 and all hooked up then ugh the 700r trans goes out on us again so son wanted to do the tremec magnum F 6 speed trans swap so fun little project we got going LOL We are into out cars :)
@@timm2891 Ha! The best upgrades come, when things fail... nice!
I did that same swap on my 77 trans am. Except I went from a th350 to a tko600 you will not be disappointed
Awesome! I can't wait! Thanks for watching...
Your “son of a bitch” comment had me laughing so hard, I was crying. We’ve all been there! Great videos!
Ha! Thanks Ryan.. .glad it helped you get through your day. I'll have to leave more of those YSOB's in future videos. Ha, ha... Thanks again for the comment!
GOOD JOB!!!
Thanks!
Awsome idea man!! Hopfully I don't have to do this today but we shall see haha
Thanks Blake, may the force be with you! Ha, ha... let us know how it goes.
Well it worked ..but omg what a day. Struggled all day trying to make magnetic base not move...had to use a combination of summit racing magnetic base with comp cam arms to hold the dial indicator... and on top of that American powertrain sent me the wrong offset dowels... so 9 hours later ....I have the correct readings but no dowels.... .013 pround on one side so awaiting 7 thou dowels .....
@@Handlehandlebars Ha! The struggle is real! Great job getting through it... ohhhh the joys of modernizing our classics. :) Glad you got there. Continue the updates. Thanks for the comment!
Dowel pins on my Big Block Chev was a Nightmare I couldn’t imagine those while it’s in the car like I had to do
I can't imagine that either. It was painful enough! Thanks for sharing!
😂😂 I love how you got so excited when it started moving 😂😂😂
The struggle and excitement was real! ha, ha... Really sucks having a blind hole for that dowel pin.
Re-installing my 2004 transmission to engine block, discovered one dowel pin is out of alignment; possible because I am using the transmission with a similar block but not the one that came with the car; just ordered the dowel pin puller from amazon but then saw your video; here, really cool to do in a pinch but I will wait for the tool to come Sunday ended up expending $189.00 total for it but keep thinking if I should just do this, problem is the dowel pin would have to be replaced, by the way it is beyond me why manufacturers don't produce them already tapered for easy removal; after all they only serve for alignment purposes and do not need to be all solid!
Ha! I feel your pain... Let us know how that tool works out!
@@FastMonty Worked out really well, so much I decided to keep it, it is not necessary and I will probably wont use it more than this once but if I ever need to use it it is really nice to have it around or just for the rare items collectors sake, AKA a holder!
@@fireyourrocketts Ha! Great to hear! Yeah, I have a LOT of paper weights and excess holders laying around. Thanks again!
So, I know what did wasn’t the best solution, but a transmission shop recommended this method for me when converting to a Tremec TKO. I do not have the patience to dial indicate, and I wasn’t about to pull the engine out, and working on my back makes doing it in the car even more painful “fun”.
He informed me that most new bell housings are made overseas and are not true. So he recommended that I find a real genuine 621 bell housing. I managed to find one that came out of a 67 Corvette, and I bolted the Tremec to it, and it shifts perfectly fine and does not make any noise in gear. So I am calling it good.
That was some fast thinking with the nut and bolt trick! Excellent work! Are you on So Cal?
Ha! Yup, sometimes you just gotta do whatcha gotta do. Great to hear you got lucky with the old bell trick. For anyone else reading, old bells have a larger tolerance range for the M20/21/22 transmissions. So, even if you have an old bell, it's always a good idea to dial it in further for the modern tolerances needed for a Tremec. Thanks for the comment, Phoenix. And yes, I'm in San Diego. You?
@@FastMonty San Fernando Valley. Maybe I’ll catch you around sometime. Every now and then I catch a car show out that way.
@@phoenixblack1220 Nice... you gotta make it to one of the Quarantine Cruises, in Huntington Beach. It's every month. See ya!
@@FastMonty for sure! Do you ever go to Bobs Big Boy in Burbank?
@@phoenixblack1220 Ha, no. That's a bit far for me. Huntington is 200 miles round trip, or one tank of gas. :)
First thing I thought was since aluminum expand at larger rate, heating it should make it loose
If only there was some aluminum to heat... :) The pin is steel, and the block is steel. Thanks though!
@@FastMonty Brliliant Idea I actually did same thing to pull pin off the block I was working on.
Awesome! Glad you got that pin out! ha, ha... thanks for the comment! @@ronaldoquintos1675
so i did this with engine in car. got under and was a peace of cake. there is a so much easier way. take a very long rode that can fit from the back and slightly tilt tape with a hammer and it will pop out. did mine in like 1 min each while engine in the car.
On what kind on engine?
You should have been able to go from the other side of the dowel pin and used to a bolt and hammer to "push" out... LOL
I have been beating my head trying to get my bellhousing parallel alignment within spec.
Good luck with your build.
Actually, on a Pontiac block the dowel pin hole is blind and can only be pulled out. Some other blocks have through holes, where you can push it out, like you said. For alignment, just follow what I did for measuring, but with Silver Sports dial indicator, and you'll be golden. Thanks for the comment, and good luck on your build too!
I'll put a pretty big nut over the dowel and weld it on. You want a nice big nut so you can comfortably weld in the center hole and fill it all in. Once it is mostly cool, start turning it in both directions. Once it moves freely spin it out with an impact. You can do both sides in the car in 20 minutes, easy. The ones in the cylinder deck can sometimes suck. I do those the same way but place an old head gasket over it and cover everything up.
Thanks for the comment... an interesting idea. How do you pull on it, while spinning?
@@FastMonty Just run an impact on it and pull back towards you while buzzing on it. It comes out. Either direction, but counter clockwise usually. The heat and spinning it helps wear it out a bit and it loosens a lot. the impact gun and having a big nut welded to it gives you plenty of leverage. If you want, you can grab that nut with an attachment that they make that goes into a slide hammer and just yank it. I just use and impact and lean back on it.
@@Digitalsharecropper Ahhhh, yeah, the wear makes sense. Thanks!
a little heat around the pin with oxy acetyl.
Yeah maybe, I just don't have that kind of torch handy. Thanks! (I don't think I would do that if it was in the car either)
Could you have used the right sized die (tap and die) and used it as a puller? By threading the dowel and bottoming out against the block would it have pulled it out?? Just a thought 🤔
Hmmmm... probably? I like the thinking. Thanks for the comment!
So I watched your video and thought about something easier. If you take a C clamp and stick a smaller bolt in the hole behind the pin and a socket that the pin can go into while you tighten the clamp you can do the job in about 5 min under the car.
That would totally work, IF there was a hole behind the pin. Pontiac 400 blocks don't have one. Thanks for the idea for those that do.
I’m getting ready to do this and was looking for a alternate idea to drilling and tapping because the tunnel is in the way of drilling straight in. (Would have to drill at a angle) this seems like a viable option! Thank you for the idea
@@darinandalinahouse9596 Hey Darin! Been a minute, hasn't it? Good point about trying to do it while in the car. If it were me, and they didn't pull out easily with a wrench, I'd use a 90 degree drill, with a short bit. If that doesn't work, You're gonna have to weld something onto the end of the pin, to pry it out. Good luck, and let us know what works for you!
@@FastMonty so I was planning on trying the c-clamp from behind method, but before I went there I decided to try to twist them out with vice grips. Man! I had to put some muscle in it and make sure I had maximum clamping force on what little bit of pin there was to clamp on to but when it first started moving I got pretty excited.
Both sides came out with just vice grips! But I still don’t want to do that again soon! Got .007 offsets on the way!
@@darinandalinahouse9596 Ha! Lucky you! I agree, I don't want to ever do that again either. Painful! Great job!
I'm doing this now with my 400 mated to an m21 and found its off .030 from center. My pins are stuck stuck and I drilled and tapped them as you did and I actually broke the bolt and the pins are still in the block... any other advice to give? Motor is still in the car
Ohhhh mannn... I feel your pain. I saw someone posted that they welded bolts to the dowel pins and did the same thing. If it were me, I would do it again, with a slightly bigger bolt, and soak the heck out of the pin with rust penetrating oil. OR, heat up the area around the pin with a torch, before pulling. Keep me posted!
@@FastMonty got them out! Had the 3/8 bolt as you did but had to gently tap the head of the bolt till it moved under pressure then used the nut to extrude it. Took a while but they are out!
@@pedaltothemetal3871 Yes!!!! I know the feeling! Congrats! Moving forward...
Just purchase a dowel extractor.
There is a correct tool for every job.
Ha! Yup... sometimes tools aren't handy, and you gotta get creative. Thanks!
Isn't there a through hole in the block to punch it out?
I wish! Not on Pontiac blocks. (Well, at least Pontiac 400's)
mine is under the car :((
Ahhh, I feel your pain. Much more of a challenge, but possible!
Why didn't you knock out the dowels with a hammer from the back?
Cuz they're blind holes, and you can't access them from the rear, like on a Chevy.
@@FastMonty I stand corrected
@@johnkemple Ha! No worries... good question
Why are you pulling the pins?
Jesse, great question, in episode 1, I determined the bell housing run out was too great to install as is. So, offset dowel pins need to be installed to get the runout to Tremec Spec. Sooo, the stock pins need to be pulled. I do know a couple of folks that did NOT have to pull their pins. They got lucky. :) Thanks for the comment!
U hit them out from the back side smh ..crazy video
That's impossible. It's NOT a Chevy.
Can't you just pound them out from the rear like a Chevy engine?
I wish! Unfortunately Pontiac blocks have blind holes. Good question, thanks.
Wth? Having the same problem with the same pin
Yeah, the struggle is real. Keep at it, you''ll get it!
Hi Monte, are you by chance a fan of a rock band RUSH ! . the reason I am asking their guitarist had a whole bit on bla ba bla , bla bla. Which you did at the end of your dowel pin removal video.
Ha! I'm familiar with them... didn't know I quoted a song. Too funny. Thanks for watching!
Pretty sad you made a UA-cam video on something that can be done in 10 seconds
Yeah right.