The kind of content that we should have directly from a company instead of waiting for a youtuber to make a 10 minutes video just for a 2 minute content .
Absolutely amazing what you guys are doing with this videos. Totally convinced me to buy one. Also I’m not a person to comment but this type of videos help so much into a buyers desition.
I would also recommend using silicone post caps such as the ones sold by KBDfans, plus silicone o-rings above the PCB If you want to isolate out a little bit more of the case sound. Should help the metal case sound even less tinny, and the plastic case sound even less hollow. This is called Burger mounting, but whilst burger mounting typically involves O rings above and below the PCB at the screw points, their thickness actually would misposition the port on the 60HE. Using silicone post caps allows you to burger mount without this issue.
Not here, thanks to this channel's filter. They're listed as "standoff silicone cover" on both KBDfans' site and AliExpress, where you can also find full dimension diagrams. Notably, they have a 2mmØ screw hole, and their cavity is 3.8mmØ × 3.0mm. Thickness is +0.5mm on all sides. Remember to also use 2mm-3mm ID silicone O rings on the top of the PCB, so when you put the screw in, the order is: screw-head→O-ring→PCB→standoff-cover→standoff/case.
@@eMeRiCaH any with an MX-style stem should be fine. The thing which causes incompatibility in other boards is north-facing switches, whereas the 60HE's switches can be placed in north *or* south orientation.
Wood lubed with foam to me sounds the best. Deep, resonating sound from every press instead of the higher pitched pings of aluminum or plastic. However that was some crazy looking flex on the wood set up!
Yes we are working on getting that back in stock. Which hopefully should be next month. We are currently improving packaging against accidental leaks as we had a few minor cases. ^Sander
For me, i was going to order the custom version as I loved the look of the blue aluminum case but no longer as I really don't like the sound of the aluminium or wood. I prefer silent or as near to silent typing as possible. Well, it makes ordering much easier.
Im gonna say this in every video I watch from Wooting. MAKE A DAMN TKL HE, FFS! There might be a few people that do care but I could give a shit less about 60% ers
@@Wooting That's correct that's why I mentioned it when you released the 60HE. I know you can't make both at once but lots of customers & Wooting 1/2 owners like myself have been asking for it. The sooner you start the sooner they will be available :)
@@Tweakyy I agree! I'm sure alit of people are buying the 60HE but I have to assume they could have sold 2 or 3 times the amount of TKL HE'S than 60's. Maybe that's the point, being a small company they might not have been able to meet the demands for TKL HE however that's a good problem to have so IDK.
I could ask the team if we want to get more cases and compare those to eachother. But I think sound doesn't change a ton with all different cases. Think modding it beyond just swapping cases might influence the sound profile a bit more. But I will look into it to see if it makes an interesting video. 😉 ^Sander
The switches come slightly lubed. The switches stock feel smooth already, so lubing it will mostly change the sound. Doing the lube job by hand will always be better then what the factory does.
I was wondering how it would sound in an acrylic case as well. It would also be interesting to see how it sounds in different type of wood (although likely too tedious to do). I wish there was a low-profile aluminum/acrylic case option, similar to the Drop ALT. Otherwise, I'll probably go with an acrylic (similar to the Drop Carina) or Bamboo (if it fits). One question though about fitting in the wood case mentioned in the beginning of this video; Could you provide an example of what cut outs are needed to fit the module?
Unfortunately, we don't have acrylic cases lying around here. I do know on AliExpress there is a low profile Alu case. As for the wood, in the description is a case compatibility list. If you check the walnut tofu I have added a picture what you need to sand down.
the walnut wooden case sounds the best for me! Just want to ask, will you make some other switch that has the same gaming feature (custom actuation point, rapid trigger, low latency, etc.) but also has variable soundprofile (maybe experiment with other switch material). imagine having a keyboard that really good for gaming but also has really good typing feel and sound, would be the prefect all rounder keyboard. Also when will it available for Indonesia?
This keyboard is really amazing, at first I was struggling with 0.1 mm sensitivity + rapid trigger for moving forward / backward / sprinting / hold to crounch (I frequently stopped moving accidentally or crouched instead of slide jumping in apex) but in the end it's just a matter of getting used to it and now I'm having fun with it in apex (started to learn superglide with it and I really like it).
I surprisingly didn’t have much issue getting used to 0.1mm actuation and rapid trigger. I thought I would definitely need to change it for when doing think like a typing test, but the switches are wonderful. The only thing I noticed was that on the modifiers/ability keys I prefer having it set to actuate on bottom out because sometimes in the moment I accidentally was pressing those keys it high stress situations, and obviously if your finger accidentally hits a neighbor key it would cause a misclick. I also found that in OSU my accuracy was a lot better with 4.0actuation vs 0.1. Basically all top osu players bottom out their keys, I don’t know exactly why this is a thing, but it instantly gave me like 4% higher accuracy, which was already 4% higher accuracy than my old custom keyboard. One suggestion though. I recommend using 3.8mm for the keys you want to actuate on a bottom out. At 4.0 I noticed that the keys would sometimes doubleclick or simply fail when holding it down, like when typing my Username and password some letters kept failing to capitalize when holding shift. This probably wasn’t a mechanical fault, my pinky was probably raising slightly when stretching my hand to hit a letter and shift at the same time, however 3.8mm kinda just removes all possibility for issues, and it still feels the same as actuating at 4.0mm.
@@WARnTEA I also thought I was going to change the sensitivity for typing at first but in the end I'm on my apex profile almost all the time even when I'm not playing, the 60G actuation force must really have something to do with it, very smart choice from Wooting. With my old keyboard (corsair K65 cherry mx speed) i couldn't typing fast without making a huge amout of missclick everytime. I didnt play osu so i cant relate, sometimes i'm using a profile with all keys at 2.0 mm for typing, also using 2.0 mm without rapid trigger for the keys near WASD (ability) and i have my window key at 4.0 mm (it's like it's disabled without being disabled, missclick at 4.0 mm is impossible, another smart move from wooting :D).
i started at 0.8mm on both actuation and rapid trigger and moved down by 0.1mm whenever i got comfortable. Still use 2mm, no rapid trigger and no tachyon mode for typing though, the low actuation was making me missclick tons, coming from a membrane keyboard with low profile caps. No real downside since i could set up a shortcut on fn + enter to switch between the two (different rgb profiles helps to tell which one you're on)
@@WARnTEA "At 4.0 I noticed that the keys would sometimes doubleclick or simply fail when holding it down, like when typing my Username and password some letters kept failing to capitalize when holding shift." That issue is typically caused by the rapid trigger sensitivity set too low. 0.1-0.5mm is so low the spring tension at the bottom out point of the switch can cause it to reset instead of it counting as you holding the key.
The Lekker switches come already pre-lubed from the factory, yes. With stock I simply mean this is what you receive out of the box without doing anything to it. The lubed version is hand-lubed. ^Sander
Yes, the Wooting 60HE already comes with the foam installed. So this video demonstrates if you swap all stock components into new cases, and if you lubed your switches by hand how that would sound like. ^Sander
Lube is available, tools are out 😅 But you can find a lot of others on Amazon otherwise. We will have them back in stock before the next batch delivery.
What is the best way to silence the wooting 60HE? Or make it as quiet possibly can. Want to use it to game in my room but don’t want to wake my wife up. Thanks in advanced
Its because unlike everyone else. Wooting sprung for the expensive plastic. Super thick plastic and they made sure their manufacturer wasn’t using too much recycled plastic. I’m sure the manufacturer fought with Wooting every step of the way to get them to use thinner plastic molds and using subpar plastic to save a buck.
It looks like I man be in the minority ... but I thought they all sounded horrid ... and loud and horrid. So I ordered one about an hour ago. Would I have ordered one if I watched this video first? Probably. I like supporting new things, people working on new ideas. Still, it sounds like this is going to be beast to muffle.
Personally I think it is because of the steel plate. If you would of have a polycarb plate it would be a lot different too. We are trying to figure out if we can offer multiple plates, but typically the board needs to be stiff so the sensors can work properly. ^Sander
With my lube job, it did make it just slightlyyy mushier. But I do like the feel of it, personally. As for the speed, I don't notice it as much. But I am not a fanatic professional gamer :P ^Sander
lol, its the best hall effect keyboard on the market. its target is gamers, not custom keyboard enthusiasts. also, if you mod it properly, it sounds a lot better than these typing tests.
The kind of content that we should have directly from a company instead of waiting for a youtuber to make a 10 minutes video just for a 2 minute content .
Facts
I got my 60HE on pre order. Can’t wait. Thank you for this dope video. This will be my first keyboard purchase that I can customize. I’m stoked
You are welcome! Tag me when you finish your build. Would love to see it. 😄
^Sander
Absolutely amazing what you guys are doing with this videos. Totally convinced me to buy one. Also I’m not a person to comment but this type of videos help so much into a buyers desition.
Awesome! Welcome on board. 😊
Let us of course know what you think of the 60HE if you receive it. 😁
^Sander
man that wood case with all mods sounds so good great video appreciate this coming from the company.
time stamps:
@1:17 - Stock case, non-lubed stabilizers/switches & w/o foam
@2:07 - Stock case, non-lubed stabilizers/switches & with foam
@1:44 - Stock case; lubed stabilizers/switches & w/o foam
@2:33 - Stock case; lubed stabilizers/switches & with foam
@3:03 - Aluminum case, non-lubed stabilizers/switches & w/o foam
@4:01 - Aluminum case, non-lubed stabilizers/switches & with foam
@3:36 - Aluminum case; lubed stabilizers/switches & w/o foam
@4:29 - Aluminum case; lubed stabilizers/switches & with foam
@4:53 - Wooden case, non-lubed stabilizers/switches & w/o foam
@5:44 - Wooden case, non-lubed stabilizers/switches & with foam
@5:21 - Wooden case; lubed stabilizers/switches & w/o foam
@6:10 - Wooden case; lubed stabilizers/switches & with foam
I would also recommend using silicone post caps such as the ones sold by KBDfans, plus silicone o-rings above the PCB If you want to isolate out a little bit more of the case sound. Should help the metal case sound even less tinny, and the plastic case sound even less hollow. This is called Burger mounting, but whilst burger mounting typically involves O rings above and below the PCB at the screw points, their thickness actually would misposition the port on the 60HE. Using silicone post caps allows you to burger mount without this issue.
I will look into it, perhaps worthy of a new video. 👍
^Sander
Could you post a link?
Not here, thanks to this channel's filter. They're listed as "standoff silicone cover" on both KBDfans' site and AliExpress, where you can also find full dimension diagrams. Notably, they have a 2mmØ screw hole, and their cavity is 3.8mmØ × 3.0mm. Thickness is +0.5mm on all sides.
Remember to also use 2mm-3mm ID silicone O rings on the top of the PCB, so when you put the screw in, the order is:
screw-head→O-ring→PCB→standoff-cover→standoff/case.
can i use any profile keycaps with this board or does it need to be certain type?
@@eMeRiCaH any with an MX-style stem should be fine. The thing which causes incompatibility in other boards is north-facing switches, whereas the 60HE's switches can be placed in north *or* south orientation.
Oh boy 😍 wood lubed + foam sounds soooo amazing omg
Sus
Wood lubed with foam to me sounds the best. Deep, resonating sound from every press instead of the higher pitched pings of aluminum or plastic. However that was some crazy looking flex on the wood set up!
very comprehensive sound test, good job!
Thank you, Wyvern. 😊
^Sander
Pre-ordered and i can't wait to get mine
Was actually wondering how good a custom Tofu 60% Acrylic case would actually look!
I'm surprised how much I like the stock case with lubed switches. I love the way the wooden case looks though.
Wooden case definitely looks nice if you don't ruin it like me, haha.
I got the tofu with lubed everything and it sounds AWESOME
Did you get the tofu walnut or the aluminum? Post it in our Discord, and tag me. I am curious how it sounds for you.
^Sander
Thanks for ur review love ur company alot, unfortunately the switch tool set is not in stock i would buy this instantly.
Yes we are working on getting that back in stock. Which hopefully should be next month. We are currently improving packaging against accidental leaks as we had a few minor cases.
^Sander
@@Wooting Thanks for ur answer
Love this type of content keep up the great work
Really a great idea of video for your amazing keyboard, it answers a frequent question from many users I'm sure ! Good job ! 💪
Anything to help you guys out! ❤️
^Sander
For me, i was going to order the custom version as I loved the look of the blue aluminum case but no longer as I really don't like the sound of the aluminium or wood. I prefer silent or as near to silent typing as possible. Well, it makes ordering much easier.
Does the wooting keyboard charge you right when u make the purchase? or does it charge you when the board is actually being shipped to you?
You get charged upon making a pre-order. But you can cancel anytime if the board hasn't been fulfilled yet.
that wooden case sounds fire
Question - does changing the case of a Wooting 60 HE ruin any of its features? I do remember (but I could be wrong) that it is waterproof?
I thought this keyboard already comes with switches pre lubed?
I don't suppose you guys have come across any compatible low profile cases for the 60he to make the keys look like they are floating?
what color is it on the Aluminum case?
Im gonna say this in every video I watch from Wooting. MAKE A DAMN TKL HE, FFS!
There might be a few people that do care but I could give a shit less about 60% ers
Ho-ho, we hear you but making keyboards take a lot of time in development, preparation, and execution. Can't overnight release a new keyboard :)
@@Wooting but could you reveal at least veeeery unaccurate time of tkl release?
if you do tkl, just know - EVERYONE will buy it)
it will be maybe next year i heared so just wait until 2023.
why do u need it exactly...for f keys only ??
@@Wooting That's correct that's why I mentioned it when you released the 60HE. I know you can't make both at once but lots of customers & Wooting 1/2 owners like myself have been asking for it.
The sooner you start the sooner they will be available :)
@@Tweakyy I agree! I'm sure alit of people are buying the 60HE but I have to assume they could have sold 2 or 3 times the amount of TKL HE'S than 60's.
Maybe that's the point, being a small company they might not have been able to meet the demands for TKL HE however that's a good problem to have so IDK.
Now I want to see and hear the Alopow 60% resin case and the Tofu Acrylic 60% case (with rgb)
I could ask the team if we want to get more cases and compare those to eachother. But I think sound doesn't change a ton with all different cases. Think modding it beyond just swapping cases might influence the sound profile a bit more. But I will look into it to see if it makes an interesting video. 😉
^Sander
Aaah man I can't wait for mine to arrive! I'm thinking I wanna swap out the stabs for some of my choice, what Unit sizes should I get?
We use standard unit size, 2U and 6.25U for the space bar. Only plate mounted stabs are supported though.
^Sander
If I swap my board to an aluminum case should I lubed the keys? I thought everything came pre-lubed already?
The switches come slightly lubed. The switches stock feel smooth already, so lubing it will mostly change the sound. Doing the lube job by hand will always be better then what the factory does.
huh. i actually like the stock case sound the most. with lube
Kan je eens uitleggen hoe het werkt ik wil een wooting 60he kopen maar dat is zonder case en pbt keys
Excited for NA-Haze to get here. I am putting it in the BLADE 60.
Tag me on Discord once your artwork is done, would love to see it 👌
^Sander
anyone know where to get a good wood case the ones shown are unavailable
why no white aluminum case???
What is the coil cable do u use? Can u link it?
I was wondering how it would sound in an acrylic case as well. It would also be interesting to see how it sounds in different type of wood (although likely too tedious to do).
I wish there was a low-profile aluminum/acrylic case option, similar to the Drop ALT. Otherwise, I'll probably go with an acrylic (similar to the Drop Carina) or Bamboo (if it fits).
One question though about fitting in the wood case mentioned in the beginning of this video; Could you provide an example of what cut outs are needed to fit the module?
Unfortunately, we don't have acrylic cases lying around here. I do know on AliExpress there is a low profile Alu case.
As for the wood, in the description is a case compatibility list. If you check the walnut tofu I have added a picture what you need to sand down.
the walnut wooden case sounds the best for me! Just want to ask, will you make some other switch that has the same gaming feature (custom actuation point, rapid trigger, low latency, etc.) but also has variable soundprofile (maybe experiment with other switch material). imagine having a keyboard that really good for gaming but also has really good typing feel and sound, would be the prefect all rounder keyboard. Also when will it available for Indonesia?
We aren't looking into that yet. But I will make sure to forward the feedback towards the team! :)
^Sander
This keyboard is really amazing, at first I was struggling with 0.1 mm sensitivity + rapid trigger for moving forward / backward / sprinting / hold to crounch (I frequently stopped moving accidentally or crouched instead of slide jumping in apex) but in the end it's just a matter of getting used to it and now I'm having fun with it in apex (started to learn superglide with it and I really like it).
I surprisingly didn’t have much issue getting used to 0.1mm actuation and rapid trigger. I thought I would definitely need to change it for when doing think like a typing test, but the switches are wonderful.
The only thing I noticed was that on the modifiers/ability keys I prefer having it set to actuate on bottom out because sometimes in the moment I accidentally was pressing those keys it high stress situations, and obviously if your finger accidentally hits a neighbor key it would cause a misclick.
I also found that in OSU my accuracy was a lot better with 4.0actuation vs 0.1. Basically all top osu players bottom out their keys, I don’t know exactly why this is a thing, but it instantly gave me like 4% higher accuracy, which was already 4% higher accuracy than my old custom keyboard.
One suggestion though. I recommend using 3.8mm for the keys you want to actuate on a bottom out. At 4.0 I noticed that the keys would sometimes doubleclick or simply fail when holding it down, like when typing my Username and password some letters kept failing to capitalize when holding shift. This probably wasn’t a mechanical fault, my pinky was probably raising slightly when stretching my hand to hit a letter and shift at the same time, however 3.8mm kinda just removes all possibility for issues, and it still feels the same as actuating at 4.0mm.
@@WARnTEA I also thought I was going to change the sensitivity for typing at first but in the end I'm on my apex profile almost all the time even when I'm not playing, the 60G actuation force must really have something to do with it, very smart choice from Wooting. With my old keyboard (corsair K65 cherry mx speed) i couldn't typing fast without making a huge amout of missclick everytime. I didnt play osu so i cant relate, sometimes i'm using a profile with all keys at 2.0 mm for typing, also using 2.0 mm without rapid trigger for the keys near WASD (ability) and i have my window key at 4.0 mm (it's like it's disabled without being disabled, missclick at 4.0 mm is impossible, another smart move from wooting :D).
i started at 0.8mm on both actuation and rapid trigger and moved down by 0.1mm whenever i got comfortable. Still use 2mm, no rapid trigger and no tachyon mode for typing though, the low actuation was making me missclick tons, coming from a membrane keyboard with low profile caps. No real downside since i could set up a shortcut on fn + enter to switch between the two (different rgb profiles helps to tell which one you're on)
@@neonoir__ Yeah 2 mm / no rapid trigger for typing is a sweet spot and shortcuts for switching between profiles are great, easy to remember and use 👍
@@WARnTEA "At 4.0 I noticed that the keys would sometimes doubleclick or simply fail when holding it down, like when typing my Username and password some letters kept failing to capitalize when holding shift."
That issue is typically caused by the rapid trigger sensitivity set too low. 0.1-0.5mm is so low the spring tension at the bottom out point of the switch can cause it to reset instead of it counting as you holding the key.
if i could buy this it would definetely be my end game, unless a 75% version of this comes out
Hey, much appreciated on the comparison - could you do one for tofu60 acrylic case as well pls? 🙏
Does wooting provide drawings for customers to make their own cases?
Right hero:
github.com/WootingKb/wooting-design
@@Wooting Awesome, thank you!
the 60he states it’s factory lubed on the site. is this not true? “stock” is lubed no?
The Lekker switches come already pre-lubed from the factory, yes. With stock I simply mean this is what you receive out of the box without doing anything to it. The lubed version is hand-lubed.
^Sander
Does the keyboard come with the foam installed?
Yes, the Wooting 60HE already comes with the foam installed. So this video demonstrates if you swap all stock components into new cases, and if you lubed your switches by hand how that would sound like.
^Sander
What kind of foam did you use?
The stock one inside the 60HE
Foam and lubing made an audible improvement for me. But the cases, not really.
Bro is that a huntsman hyper beast😂
i recommend doing holee mods for stabilizer and add switch filming too :D
Added to the list of potential content idea's! :D
^Sander
@@Wooting ITS WOOTING TIME
could you make something to make the keyboard as silent as possible?
Lubing the switches a tad bit more and adding more foam/silicone inside might help with that.
@@Wooting could you make something ready to buy? like a SILENCER KIT, would people be interested in buying it? i would, if not to expensive.
You guys are sold out of the lube tool kit 😩
Lube is available, tools are out 😅 But you can find a lot of others on Amazon otherwise. We will have them back in stock before the next batch delivery.
@@Wooting what switch opener u recommend
For a second there I thought 2012 PewDiePie is opening up the video
Fridays with Wooting soon.
What is the best way to silence the wooting 60HE? Or make it as quiet possibly can. Want to use it to game in my room but don’t want to wake my wife up. Thanks in advanced
lube it, optionally get o-rings. All other solutions are custom/case specific and experimental.
@@Wooting thanks. Will experiment once I receive mine
ironically fully stock sounds best(with foam).. it got an unique sound..
Its because unlike everyone else. Wooting sprung for the expensive plastic. Super thick plastic and they made sure their manufacturer wasn’t using too much recycled plastic.
I’m sure the manufacturer fought with Wooting every step of the way to get them to use thinner plastic molds and using subpar plastic to save a buck.
Anyone has a completely beginner tutorial on how to mod the stock 60HE to an aluminium case? Maybe even with lubricating parts and inserting a foam?
Badseedtech has exactly what you're looking for
Where can I get the foam?
It's already included in the stock 60HE. 😉
^Sander
@@Wooting Amazing, can't wait for this to come in. Thanks
what about acrylic/polycarbonate
Looking into making a part 2 with other cases. Still have to convince Calder to get me additional cases to test. ;)
^Sander
Why don’t you put the functions of a keyboard unto those cases that way we might be able to get your keyboard.
Not sure what you mean with this?
and the case will fit this keyboard LM60
Should fit yes. If it fits the GH60 it will fit this one.
4:28 Aluminum
6:08 Wood
this is just for me to compare
its very subtle but the aluminum is slighter deeper than wood
Can we use 3rd party stabs with this?
Yes, you can. Though, only plate mounted stabs are supported. So make sure to not buy any screw-in stabs.
^Sander
Aluminum sounds horrible. There are resin cases too, they are pretty nice or you can try acrylic tofu.
Thanks for the tip! I will ask the team soon if we want to provide footage of more cases or not.
^Sander
All of the 3 bases makes the keyboard way too loud....
i remember you
Who, me? Sander?
It looks like I man be in the minority ... but I thought they all sounded horrid ... and loud and horrid. So I ordered one about an hour ago. Would I have ordered one if I watched this video first? Probably. I like supporting new things, people working on new ideas. Still, it sounds like this is going to be beast to muffle.
Personally I think it is because of the steel plate. If you would of have a polycarb plate it would be a lot different too. We are trying to figure out if we can offer multiple plates, but typically the board needs to be stiff so the sensors can work properly.
^Sander
Poor hands 😅😢
I'm pretty sure the Krytox 205G0 makes the switch feel a bit "mushy", slower to press/release, it's too thick for gaming.
With my lube job, it did make it just slightlyyy mushier. But I do like the feel of it, personally. As for the speed, I don't notice it as much. But I am not a fanatic professional gamer :P
^Sander
those stock key caps need to go
Plastic sound better than aluminium.
rasin?
Unlubed stabs are just gross...
So it all just sounds loud and terrible, wow thanks for the sound test! Why would anyone buy one of these
lol, its the best hall effect keyboard on the market. its target is gamers, not custom keyboard enthusiasts. also, if you mod it properly, it sounds a lot better than these typing tests.
ｐｒｏｍｏｓｍ ✔️
Viel Rauch um nichts 😂
All pretty awful