When I saw the title of the video I thought it was great because its something that really needs to be addressed. The information in the video, however, came up a little short. And I don't mean that in any negative way. You come across as an honest and genuine person, so I'm not trying to bash you, or the video. If anything, I appreciate the effort on your part to raise the issue. Its not an easy topic. I'll list some basic concepts that may help clarify some things. A lot of what you were saying was going in the right direction. It just needs a little refinement. When it comes to an amp driving speakers, home or car, the lower the impedance, the harder the amp has to work. When you see a speaker rated for 4 or 8 ohms, it doesn't tell you much. That's just an average. If you look at the specs for the speaker, the most important number to look at is the lowest impedance that the speaker can show the amp. So, the rating would look something like, 8 ohm nominal, 3 ohms minimum. The 3 ohms is the important number. If you have a different 8 ohm speaker that drops down to 5, its a much easier speaker to drive even though they are both rated for 8 ohms. In the video, it was said that the speakers impedance constantly changes when in use. That's 100% correct, but its not random. The amount of impedance a speaker shows an amp is based on the frequency its asked to produced. To visualize, think of a piano. Since 8ohms is an average, there's only 1 key on a piano that will produce a note that the amp will see as 8 ohms. As you move to the right and the keys get higher and higher, so does impedance. And its the opposite for lower notes. Impedance drops. One thing that confuses people, is they think higher impedance and less wattage means its a more difficult load for the amp, and that's why it makes less power. That's not the case, and here's why. When you look at a big subwoofer moving in and out, it takes a lot of power to get it working. A tweeter only has to move a tiny bit compared to a sub. Most of the time you can't even see it moving. It just doesn't need that kind of power, so its not a negative. Going the other way, if you remove your speaker wires and touch them together, its called a short circuit, or 0 ohms. So, if you are asking your amp to drive a 1 or 2 ohm load, its only 1 or 2 ohms away from a dead short. This is not something you want to do to your amp and speakers, even if the specs show it can be done. Its like driving your car with the motor always pinned at the rev limiter. Technically, its rated for it, but in reality you're beating the crap out of your car. Its no different with your audio system. That's why I thought it was such a good topic to discuss. It seems like with car audio everyone is trying to get to the lowest impedance possible because you get more power. That's really not a good idea. Does a 4 ohm speaker sound better than an 8 ohm speaker? That question can't be answered. There's too many variables in play. Will a power amp sound better if its asked to drive a 4 ohm load over a 1 or 2 ohm load. Yes it will. Its also a lot easier on the speakers. Beyond that, there are a couple of other issues worth mentioning. I know in car audio its very common to bridge power amps. That's when you combine 2 channels on a stereo amp into 1 channel to get more power. A bridged stereo amp is not a mono amp. Its very different. The important thing to know, is when you bridge an amp, it now sees half the impedance it normally does. A 4 ohm speaker is literally a 2 ohm speaker with a bridged amp. Yes, you get more power, but the quality of power isn't as good because you bear the crap out of your amp to get it. I'm not saying you should never bridge an amp. You just need to be careful. Personally, I prefer not to bridge, but in some situations, it may be an OK option. Just be aware of the downsides.
Interesting. Perhaps educate people too on that crucial damping Factor of amplifier relative to going half the load. This topic was very much taken up in early car audio days, this damping Factor is very obvious with driving larger diameter subs cleanly.
@@tedtan6449 I can only make a post so big. I'm barely scratching the surface just on the specific topic in the video. So, yes, I left way more out of my post, than I included. There are plenty of other variables that will have an effect how the system preforms than just this. All I can tell you is, just use common sense and make your own decisions. You will make some mistakes, and that's just the way it goes. But the most important thing is to make your own mistakes. Never let someone else make them for.
@@JasonWW2000 I know home audio stuff, played with Behemoth amps. Look at Krell and other top notch designer amplification. To quote... Typical amplifiers have a damping factor around 100, whereas higher quality amps like the ones from Dan D'agostino or Pass Lab have damping factors of around 500 (depending on the model).Jan 24, 2023
@@tedtan6449That's nice and all, but correlation does not equal causation. If you look hard enough you can find a low quality amp with a high damping factor as well as a high end amp with a low damping factor. It's not some secret, special specification that tells you the quality of an amplifier. In fact, I've noticed a lot of people going around talking about how important the damping factor is and some manufacturers are taking advantage of that by listing higher damping factors then they actually have. Manufacturers are always trying to boost their sales. They figured out a long time ago that boosting the power output numbers helps to sell amplifiers so you see a lot of max power or peak power numbers listed prominently. I was just looking at DB Drive wdx series amplifiers and they literally hide the RMS power numbers.
Keep learning ,you haven't quite seen the overall to home/ car audio, the 18 turns or the 32 turns moves the voice coil and the air pressure changes in front an rear of cone. Then physics takes over and pressure waves . They all sound different depending on the wave form and the material it rattles, if the rattle resembles the original we say it reproduces the sound. This is very good . The 50 years as a tech ,helps, but there is so much more to love and learn . Keep on
I started running Taramps Smart amps to fight impedance rise and im so happy i did. The difference is night and day. Im running a single Resilient Sounds Onyx 12"at ½ ohm and Taramps amps handle it incredibly well. I get the same wattage at .5, 1, or 2 ohms. Gotta love smart amps. They are one of the best things to hit car audio in 30 years. I hope more companies go this way of smart amps.
I'll put it to you like this I'm happy to spend twice as much on an amp to run it at 4 ohms instead of two, because of the dampening factor improving so much. Sounds better, no doubt.
Given two otherwise identical drivers, the only meaningful difference is the required amplifier output voltage to reach a given power level. Impedance in simple terms determines the current flow for a given voltage. A lower impedance sees that given power level delivered as less volts & more amps (Volts x Amps = Watts). Having lower impedance drivers is helpful in car environment, where you only have 12 - 14Vdc of supply voltage to start with, and creating amplifiers with high output voltage swing from a low supply voltage is difficult.
There's other factors involved than just resistance. Any time you have a coil in a circuit you also have inductance and reactance. Inductive reactance increases with frequency and inductance. Capacitive reactance decreases with frequency and capacitance. These factors also affect a driver's ability to reproduce certain frequencies as well as the amplifier's power output. Piezo tweeters are literally disc capacitors, so capacitive reactance is the main factor on those. Also why piezo tweeters usually don't require a capacitor to filter out lower frequencies because that capacitance is built-in.
I have pioneer towers that read 11.5 ohms,unusually high I thought,but I always heard the less impedance the less control.I run 1 ohm subs now because car amps are dialed in to 1 ohm for max power.
thanks ive also noticed in car amps like taramos with out moving the gains at all just going from one sub to another example rf t2 then to a skar 6.5 sub no movement and at volumes that the t2 is slapping and moving air the 6.5 is moving taking it but way less like the amp knows the sub cant take and gives it less??? its od
I like how in car audio now, an amp's THD and S/N is rated at 4 ohm, but the power is rated at 1 ohm (or the amp's minimum impedance). So, the 4ohm and 8ohm speakers may "sound" the same, but the amp might not be as clean, especially at lower ohm load near max power. But honestly, it's probably undetectable.
Ha, how kind of you to believe the THD numbers and S/N numbers are actually honest. lol I tend to focus on the S/N number looking for anything over 90dB. If you can find them Polk makes some very good car amplifiers listed S/N Ratio 105 dB. And Polk explains how they reached those numbers. I like the Polk brand. They don't make entry level car speakers. Just good speakers regardless of price. For around $100 pair they are my goto speaker. Less than that it's Skar. I think 2 of the best lower-mid priced speakers. Spend more then its DD Audio, CT Sounds, Alpine S Series.. Also like Sevard Subs. And entry level subs Parts Express subs.
Nice explanation !! This is a real rabbit hole LOL. I use notch filters to balance the frequencies that get amplified by Ohm fluctuation. All amplifiers are DC at the output? AC amplifiers are converted to DC by the transformer/power supply. The car has 12v X 670 amps = 8040watts and the home has 110v X 200amps equals 22000watts.
@@CarAudioEnthusiasts That's true :). I always though that the output of most amps was DC... Turns out that it is another rabbit hole and another video LOL. Thanks for sharing !!
@@RobertDwight-123 True... There is a great article over at Elprocus, check it out. The article tittle is (DC Amplifier : Circuit Diagram, and Applications).
when it comes to ohms on car vs home higher ohms are used in home maybe also in part due to a heavier coil for lower fs for better sq (more windings more weight more ohms is my logic) also tho, you get higher BL due to more windings. so for the same magnet and the same proportional gap at the same wattage an 8 ohm speaker should be the better ovrall performer due to higher bl and inherit lower fs, higher inherit sensitivity. this is also assuming the suspensions are proportionally adjusted. another up side to higher ohms is if you had a radio that is rated at 4 ohms but you ran it at 8 ohms i'd almost guarantee it runs more efficient. aside from having a heavy coil for lower fs and better sq you could use a heavier cone or looser suspension to achieve similar sq but as is such in cars "no replacement for displacement" (no replacement for more windings) the higher ohm speaker should be the winner when compared to a comparable clone of itself. just wanted to add that to the mix lol - nice vid brother
IDK what youre talking about because in my living room I have jama surround sound speakers and an 18inch skar subwwofer all in my livign room and being powered all off car amplifiers and that includes mty surround sound speakers and I have been using the same 12v power supply that has a 100amp max and have been using this set up for over a year and aside from some noise troubleshooting I have almost no feedback either or diustortion and I use to have a hifi receiver but have since been happier using the car amplifiers. Its louder and cleaner sounding imo.
@@CharlesDowiot-qv7pp I did it as an experiment at first and powered my surround sound speakers off a 4 channel roskford fosgate class ab amplifier and a rocksfor fosgate class d powering my skar 18inch..Then i ground a negative lead from the rca outter shield and it gets of any noise. I also am using a Low level RCA Pre amplifier to boost the 1v coming from the TV RCA out and Bump hartd all the time with no problems
just make sure youre not over powering them, or crossing them over too low, usually its around 3000hz with a 24db rolloff. but you should check your for the crossover point.
The reason you typically need more power in an automobile is due to its higher noise floor. I've got a really quiet Lincoln Navigator and going 70 mph I can measure a noise floor of 75 DB at 100 HZ and 85 DB at 40 HZ. The noise floor generally drops as you go higher in frequency. That's extremely noisy in comparison to a house, so you have to be really loud just to hear those lower frequencies.
Audio Quality is "Not" subjective unless you are deaf. Stereos either sound "Great". Or " Like Shit". I benefit from having ears like few humans and I don't expect anyone to pickup musically what I can hear. But the term is balance. Key when you have more than 1 driver. Thats what creates the foundation of a good speaker. Simply 2-way speakers are inferoor to 3 way speakers. 3 is perfect because we live in 3 dimensional world. Why 2 way speakers are a waste of time. But sadly the majority of speakers offered today.
In Watts it doesn't matter what voltage you start with. That's how much power the speaker is getting if it's 12 volts or 120 volts ac. Watts is volts x amps (current). Car speakers need more watts to drive past all the road noise and engine noise, ect. compared to a home. Sometimes watts is called VA or volt amps. In order to make an amp put out more wattage for a given design you can design it more heavy duty to run higher current and lower ohms like car audio. It takes a larger amp to run a higher wattage when you have more resistance. Low ohm loads almost pull power out of the amp. It's why low ohm loads are used in car audio to pull more power. Power is not near as much of a concern in homes with even thousands of dollar speakers running great off of only like 150 watts.
I have a definitive technology powered subwoofer that has a 30 ohm subwoofer in it. The built in amplifier is pretty small. I think it's like 650 watts. The amplifier puts out a ton of voltage, but obviously not much current. I hooked up the subwoofer to my Orion HCCA 11000.1, and it pushed the subwoofer pretty good without blowing it right away.
how can a 4 ohm amp blow a 30 ohm speaker? 650 watts is not a small amp. And is that Orion 1100 or 11,000? I think i see the problem. Fair to say it sounded great and kicked like a horse.
How about 16 ohm speakers? Or 32 ohm? The higher the resistance of the speakers connected to a lower ohm amp creates a more "musical" sound quality car stereo. Most guitar amps use 16 ohm speakers connected/powered to an 8 ohm amp. This helps create clarity with the guitar amp. That's why running subs at 2 and 1 ohm wiring gives you sloppy bass. Sure it's Louder. But if it doesn't sound great, why bother?
Ya powerd sub can have a really wide range or ohms make it difficult to replace any thing with the current part for the application. Iv got a kalisph 12 with a 1000w 30ohm voice coil difficult to find a replacement amplifier supply in less it's the original 💯👍✌️
Coil swap is the way only way to go. It's the only way to reasonable way to repair a powered sub with odd ohms that way you can get the currect affordable amplifier to power it correctly. Id say don't buy or buy it for cheap as possible if you ever see any sub at a wired ohm load regardless of spec ratings sense there a good amount of work involved and will ended up changing. In any audio really. 💯👍😉✌️
Define "better".....all depends on your amplifier and subwoofer combo....8 ohm is easier on your amp less powerful though. Some of the old school amps made the same power @8 or 4ohm mono
LMAO actually that driver failed mechanically from over extension, i believe it was something like 6kwatts and 15-20 hertz....way below port tuning....all day long...
@@indiobaez3314 Depends on how you wire it. 4 8 ohmn speakers wired in parallel would give you a 2 ohm load. Many bass centered amps these days are 1 ohm rated. It's why many speakers these days are sold as 1 ohm. The lower the ohm load the more current is drawn out of the amp.
@@Decent9mm When you double the ohm rating it halfs the amount of power the amp puts out. Basically the resistance in the circuit determines what current the amp will put out. Higher resistance less current. Most amps these days can do a 1 ohm load. You need to check the specs on your amp but that would give you the most current. Wiring more spreakers in parallel halfs the ohm load each time you add a pair. 2 8 ohm speakers in parallel is a 4 ohm load. 4 8 ohm speakers in parallel is a 2 ohm load. Dual voice coil allows you to change the ohm load of each sub. 8 ohm dual voice coil sub wired in parallel is actually a 4 ohm sub. It sounds complicated but it's pretty easy to figure out.
@@OGJD1984 You definitely made it easier to understand… My amp can do 200 at 2 ohms and 125 at 4ohms… So my idea was to wire two 8 ohm 8 in speakers down to 4 ohm so my amp isn’t workin as hard and i still get the extra sound i need in the trunk… Now i know that will work…Thanks alot
When I saw the title of the video I thought it was great because its something that really needs to be addressed. The information in the video, however, came up a little short. And I don't mean that in any negative way. You come across as an honest and genuine person, so I'm not trying to bash you, or the video. If anything, I appreciate the effort on your part to raise the issue. Its not an easy topic. I'll list some basic concepts that may help clarify some things. A lot of what you were saying was going in the right direction. It just needs a little refinement.
When it comes to an amp driving speakers, home or car, the lower the impedance, the harder the amp has to work. When you see a speaker rated for 4 or 8 ohms, it doesn't tell you much. That's just an average. If you look at the specs for the speaker, the most important number to look at is the lowest impedance that the speaker can show the amp. So, the rating would look something like, 8 ohm nominal, 3 ohms minimum. The 3 ohms is the important number. If you have a different 8 ohm speaker that drops down to 5, its a much easier speaker to drive even though they are both rated for 8 ohms.
In the video, it was said that the speakers impedance constantly changes when in use. That's 100% correct, but its not random. The amount of impedance a speaker shows an amp is based on the frequency its asked to produced. To visualize, think of a piano. Since 8ohms is an average, there's only 1 key on a piano that will produce a note that the amp will see as 8 ohms. As you move to the right and the keys get higher and higher, so does impedance. And its the opposite for lower notes. Impedance drops. One thing that confuses people, is they think higher impedance and less wattage means its a more difficult load for the amp, and that's why it makes less power. That's not the case, and here's why. When you look at a big subwoofer moving in and out, it takes a lot of power to get it working. A tweeter only has to move a tiny bit compared to a sub. Most of the time you can't even see it moving. It just doesn't need that kind of power, so its not a negative. Going the other way, if you remove your speaker wires and touch them together, its called a short circuit, or 0 ohms. So, if you are asking your amp to drive a 1 or 2 ohm load, its only 1 or 2 ohms away from a dead short. This is not something you want to do to your amp and speakers, even if the specs show it can be done. Its like driving your car with the motor always pinned at the rev limiter. Technically, its rated for it, but in reality you're beating the crap out of your car. Its no different with your audio system. That's why I thought it was such a good topic to discuss. It seems like with car audio everyone is trying to get to the lowest impedance possible because you get more power. That's really not a good idea. Does a 4 ohm speaker sound better than an 8 ohm speaker? That question can't be answered. There's too many variables in play. Will a power amp sound better if its asked to drive a 4 ohm load over a 1 or 2 ohm load. Yes it will. Its also a lot easier on the speakers.
Beyond that, there are a couple of other issues worth mentioning. I know in car audio its very common to bridge power amps. That's when you combine 2 channels on a stereo amp into 1 channel to get more power. A bridged stereo amp is not a mono amp. Its very different. The important thing to know, is when you bridge an amp, it now sees half the impedance it normally does. A 4 ohm speaker is literally a 2 ohm speaker with a bridged amp. Yes, you get more power, but the quality of power isn't as good because you bear the crap out of your amp to get it. I'm not saying you should never bridge an amp. You just need to be careful. Personally, I prefer not to bridge, but in some situations, it may be an OK option. Just be aware of the downsides.
Interesting. Perhaps educate people too on that crucial damping Factor of amplifier relative to going half the load.
This topic was very much taken up in early car audio days, this damping Factor is very obvious with driving larger diameter subs cleanly.
@@tedtan6449 If you talk to pretty much any amplifier designer they'll tell you that the damping factor is mostly irrelevant.
@@tedtan6449 I can only make a post so big. I'm barely scratching the surface just on the specific topic in the video. So, yes, I left way more out of my post, than I included. There are plenty of other variables that will have an effect how the system preforms than just this. All I can tell you is, just use common sense and make your own decisions. You will make some mistakes, and that's just the way it goes. But the most important thing is to make your own mistakes. Never let someone else make them for.
@@JasonWW2000 I know home audio stuff, played with Behemoth amps. Look at Krell and other top notch designer amplification.
To quote... Typical amplifiers have a damping factor around 100, whereas higher quality amps like the ones from Dan D'agostino or Pass Lab have damping factors of around 500 (depending on the model).Jan 24, 2023
@@tedtan6449That's nice and all, but correlation does not equal causation.
If you look hard enough you can find a low quality amp with a high damping factor as well as a high end amp with a low damping factor. It's not some secret, special specification that tells you the quality of an amplifier.
In fact, I've noticed a lot of people going around talking about how important the damping factor is and some manufacturers are taking advantage of that by listing higher damping factors then they actually have. Manufacturers are always trying to boost their sales. They figured out a long time ago that boosting the power output numbers helps to sell amplifiers so you see a lot of max power or peak power numbers listed prominently.
I was just looking at DB Drive wdx series amplifiers and they literally hide the RMS power numbers.
Thanks for putting out so much information everyday
My pleasure!
Keep learning ,you haven't quite seen the overall to home/ car audio, the 18 turns or the 32 turns moves the voice coil and the air pressure changes in front an rear of cone. Then physics takes over and pressure waves . They all sound different depending on the wave form and the material it rattles, if the rattle resembles the original we say it reproduces the sound. This is very good . The 50 years as a tech ,helps, but there is so much more to love and learn . Keep on
I started running Taramps Smart amps to fight impedance rise and im so happy i did. The difference is night and day. Im running a single Resilient Sounds Onyx 12"at ½ ohm and Taramps amps handle it incredibly well. I get the same wattage at .5, 1, or 2 ohms. Gotta love smart amps. They are one of the best things to hit car audio in 30 years. I hope more companies go this way of smart amps.
Great to hear!
You rock brother!!! We need somebody like you out here in this basshead world 🦾🦾🦾
I'll put it to you like this I'm happy to spend twice as much on an amp to run it at 4 ohms instead of two, because of the dampening factor improving so much. Sounds better, no doubt.
Given two otherwise identical drivers, the only meaningful difference is the required amplifier output voltage to reach a given power level. Impedance in simple terms determines the current flow for a given voltage.
A lower impedance sees that given power level delivered as less volts & more amps (Volts x Amps = Watts).
Having lower impedance drivers is helpful in car environment, where you only have 12 - 14Vdc of supply voltage to start with, and creating amplifiers with high output voltage swing from a low supply voltage is difficult.
There's other factors involved than just resistance. Any time you have a coil in a circuit you also have inductance and reactance. Inductive reactance increases with frequency and inductance. Capacitive reactance decreases with frequency and capacitance. These factors also affect a driver's ability to reproduce certain frequencies as well as the amplifier's power output. Piezo tweeters are literally disc capacitors, so capacitive reactance is the main factor on those. Also why piezo tweeters usually don't require a capacitor to filter out lower frequencies because that capacitance is built-in.
I have pioneer towers that read 11.5 ohms,unusually high I thought,but I always heard the less impedance the less control.I run 1 ohm subs now because car amps are dialed in to 1 ohm for max power.
thanks ive also noticed in car amps like taramos with out moving the gains at all just going from one sub to another example rf t2 then to a skar 6.5 sub no movement and at volumes that the t2 is slapping and moving air the 6.5 is moving taking it but way less like the amp knows the sub cant take and gives it less??? its od
I like how in car audio now, an amp's THD and S/N is rated at 4 ohm, but the power is rated at 1 ohm (or the amp's minimum impedance).
So, the 4ohm and 8ohm speakers may "sound" the same, but the amp might not be as clean, especially at lower ohm load near max power. But honestly, it's probably undetectable.
Ha, how kind of you to believe the THD numbers and S/N numbers are actually honest. lol I tend to focus on the S/N number looking for anything over 90dB. If you can find them Polk makes some very good car amplifiers listed S/N Ratio 105 dB. And Polk explains how they reached those numbers. I like the Polk brand. They don't make entry level car speakers. Just good speakers regardless of price. For around $100 pair they are my goto speaker. Less than that it's Skar. I think 2 of the best lower-mid priced speakers. Spend more then its DD Audio, CT Sounds, Alpine S Series.. Also like Sevard Subs. And entry level subs Parts Express subs.
Nice explanation !!
This is a real rabbit hole LOL.
I use notch filters to balance the frequencies that get amplified by Ohm fluctuation.
All amplifiers are DC at the output? AC amplifiers are converted to DC by the transformer/power supply.
The car has 12v X 670 amps = 8040watts and the home has 110v X 200amps equals 22000watts.
all amplifiers output AC. and thanks!
@@CarAudioEnthusiasts That's true :). I always though that the output of most amps was DC... Turns out that it is another rabbit hole and another video LOL.
Thanks for sharing !!
@@RobertDwight-123 True...
There is a great article over at Elprocus, check it out.
The article tittle is (DC Amplifier : Circuit Diagram, and Applications).
when it comes to ohms on car vs home higher ohms are used in home maybe also in part due to a heavier coil for lower fs for better sq (more windings more weight more ohms is my logic) also tho, you get higher BL due to more windings. so for the same magnet and the same proportional gap at the same wattage an 8 ohm speaker should be the better ovrall performer due to higher bl and inherit lower fs, higher inherit sensitivity. this is also assuming the suspensions are proportionally adjusted. another up side to higher ohms is if you had a radio that is rated at 4 ohms but you ran it at 8 ohms i'd almost guarantee it runs more efficient. aside from having a heavy coil for lower fs and better sq you could use a heavier cone or looser suspension to achieve similar sq but as is such in cars "no replacement for displacement" (no replacement for more windings) the higher ohm speaker should be the winner when compared to a comparable clone of itself. just wanted to add that to the mix lol - nice vid brother
IDK what youre talking about because in my living room I have jama surround sound speakers and an 18inch skar subwwofer all in my livign room and being powered all off car amplifiers and that includes mty surround sound speakers and I have been using the same 12v power supply that has a 100amp max and have been using this set up for over a year and aside from some noise troubleshooting I have almost no feedback either or diustortion and I use to have a hifi receiver but have since been happier using the car amplifiers. Its louder and cleaner sounding imo.
Wow the car Amp Different I only use one Amp House with House speakers
@@CharlesDowiot-qv7pp I did it as an experiment at first and powered my surround sound speakers off a 4 channel roskford fosgate class ab amplifier and a rocksfor fosgate class d powering my skar 18inch..Then i ground a negative lead from the rca outter shield and it gets of any noise. I also am using a Low level RCA Pre amplifier to boost the 1v coming from the TV RCA out and Bump hartd all the time with no problems
Do you have a video on running tweeters active with a DSP? How to power them using a amp but not blowing them?
just make sure youre not over powering them, or crossing them over too low, usually its around 3000hz with a 24db rolloff. but you should check your for the crossover point.
Soaking all this in.. The home is a different beast, larger space but less power required. Weird.
The reason you typically need more power in an automobile is due to its higher noise floor. I've got a really quiet Lincoln Navigator and going 70 mph I can measure a noise floor of 75 DB at 100 HZ and 85 DB at 40 HZ. The noise floor generally drops as you go higher in frequency. That's extremely noisy in comparison to a house, so you have to be really loud just to hear those lower frequencies.
The final tweak is always the EARS. It's called subjective listening.
Audio Quality is "Not" subjective unless you are deaf. Stereos either sound "Great". Or " Like Shit". I benefit from having ears like few humans and I don't expect anyone to pickup musically what I can hear. But the term is balance. Key when you have more than 1 driver. Thats what creates the foundation of a good speaker. Simply 2-way speakers are inferoor to 3 way speakers. 3 is perfect because we live in 3 dimensional world. Why 2 way speakers are a waste of time. But sadly the majority of speakers offered today.
The 4ohm/8ohm conversation is only 50% without taking amplifier's slew rate and damping factor into account at those specific impedance
Good luck getting those numbers.
In Watts it doesn't matter what voltage you start with. That's how much power the speaker is getting if it's 12 volts or 120 volts ac. Watts is volts x amps (current). Car speakers need more watts to drive past all the road noise and engine noise, ect. compared to a home. Sometimes watts is called VA or volt amps. In order to make an amp put out more wattage for a given design you can design it more heavy duty to run higher current and lower ohms like car audio. It takes a larger amp to run a higher wattage when you have more resistance. Low ohm loads almost pull power out of the amp. It's why low ohm loads are used in car audio to pull more power. Power is not near as much of a concern in homes with even thousands of dollar speakers running great off of only like 150 watts.
I have a definitive technology powered subwoofer that has a 30 ohm subwoofer in it. The built in amplifier is pretty small. I think it's like 650 watts. The amplifier puts out a ton of voltage, but obviously not much current. I hooked up the subwoofer to my Orion HCCA 11000.1, and it pushed the subwoofer pretty good without blowing it right away.
how can a 4 ohm amp blow a 30 ohm speaker? 650 watts is not a small amp. And is that Orion 1100 or 11,000? I think i see the problem. Fair to say it sounded great and kicked like a horse.
How about 16 ohm speakers? Or 32 ohm? The higher the resistance of the speakers connected to a lower ohm amp creates a more "musical" sound quality car stereo. Most guitar amps use 16 ohm speakers connected/powered to an 8 ohm amp. This helps create clarity with the guitar amp. That's why running subs at 2 and 1 ohm wiring gives you sloppy bass. Sure it's Louder. But if it doesn't sound great, why bother?
sorry but thats all simply un true
Ya powerd sub can have a really wide range or ohms make it difficult to replace any thing with the current part for the application. Iv got a kalisph 12 with a 1000w 30ohm voice coil difficult to find a replacement amplifier supply in less it's the original 💯👍✌️
Very true
Coil swap is the way only way to go. It's the only way to reasonable way to repair a powered sub with odd ohms that way you can get the currect affordable amplifier to power it correctly. Id say don't buy or buy it for cheap as possible if you ever see any sub at a wired ohm load regardless of spec ratings sense there a good amount of work involved and will ended up changing. In any audio really. 💯👍😉✌️
The old kicker vr still water free air 12s were 8 ohm sub in car audio perty rare to see now days in car audio .💯👍✌️
Does a car amplifier that works at 8 ohms get hotter?
It's funny how my 4x12 16 ohm guitar cabinet blew away any 4 ohm car equipment in the early 90's with only 200 watts.
I guess it's how you use it. Lol
They are Both Good ✨️✨️
Define "better".....all depends on your amplifier and subwoofer combo....8 ohm is easier on your amp less powerful though. Some of the old school amps made the same power @8 or 4ohm mono
4ohm good car Battery 8ohm good for House Electricity Both Good ✨️✨️
Who here smells burnt voice coil when he brings that coil in frame? Lol
LMAO actually that driver failed mechanically from over extension, i believe it was something like 6kwatts and 15-20 hertz....way below port tuning....all day long...
4 ohms is good for cars because it is 12 volts and weak, 8 ohms is better and the more you have in ohms is better, bigger Amp = nice info
Yes, you are right
If you run an 8 ohm speaker on a car amplifier that's rated for 4 ohm loads it's going to put out roughly half the power.
@@OGJD1984 But If You I Run 4 8OHM Speakers The Total Ohm Load Is 2OHM? Making The Amp Work More? But It Gives Good Power? Yes Or No
@@indiobaez3314 Depends on how you wire it. 4 8 ohmn speakers wired in parallel would give you a 2 ohm load. Many bass centered amps these days are 1 ohm rated. It's why many speakers these days are sold as 1 ohm. The lower the ohm load the more current is drawn out of the amp.
@@OGJD1984 So if i double up my speakers and wire them down to 4 Ohms, I should get the same sound and less stress on my amp?
@@Decent9mm When you double the ohm rating it halfs the amount of power the amp puts out. Basically the resistance in the circuit determines what current the amp will put out. Higher resistance less current. Most amps these days can do a 1 ohm load. You need to check the specs on your amp but that would give you the most current. Wiring more spreakers in parallel halfs the ohm load each time you add a pair. 2 8 ohm speakers in parallel is a 4 ohm load. 4 8 ohm speakers in parallel is a 2 ohm load. Dual voice coil allows you to change the ohm load of each sub. 8 ohm dual voice coil sub wired in parallel is actually a 4 ohm sub. It sounds complicated but it's pretty easy to figure out.
@@OGJD1984 You definitely made it easier to understand… My amp can do 200 at 2 ohms and 125 at 4ohms… So my idea was to wire two 8 ohm 8 in speakers down to 4 ohm so my amp isn’t workin as hard and i still get the extra sound i need in the trunk… Now i know that will work…Thanks alot
I like 4 ohms and try to run everything at 4. Amps don't have to work as hard.
For car audio, 4 ohms throughout is the goal. Speakers is not a problem, but subs need a little more homework to get the desired power at 4 ohms.
The 4 ohm speakers in car audio 8 ohm home stereo is simply to make you purchase 2 stereo systems instead of 1.
un true
A1 sauce🤣
I use 1 ohm subs
16 ohms!
Worst explanation of ohms law I've ever heard. Don't quit your day job.
@@dmcd2460 lmfao lol