been in car audio for 25+ years and what ur discussing the basics of what people should consider when purchasing car audio equipmemt on the ohms when it comes to mids and highs i stick with class A/B amp running 4ohm load to 4 ohm mids and tweets when comes to subwoofers its different i usually run class D amp which are usually 1ohm stable to dual 2ohm dvc (dual voice coil) subs and pending how many subs will determine if i them in series or parallel or both cuz ill usually wire the 2ohm dvc sub at 4ohms so if u have 2 thats 2x 4ohms so drops load to 2 ohms and when u add a 3rd sub it drops down to 1.33ohm load and 4th sub drops it down to just barely under 1ohm which is safe on 1ohm capable class d amps you just need to make sure your subs rms recommended power say its 600 watts rms x4= 2400 so an amp that has a true 2500watt rms rating would easily run them without much strain on the amp or subs cuz u matched the power ratings however depending on vehicle ur getting to the territtory of does car produce the power needed i drive v8 trucks with factory high amp altenators so i can get away with the amp and subs along with like a 600.4 4 channel amp forbmids and highs i just add a secondary battery like an xs power d3100 for main battery and add xs power xp950 battery along with a dual battery isolator kit so it get charged safely and doesnt draw power when off from main battery and if by chance i drain main battery overnight leaving light on or something i can manually turn on isolator and let the secondary battery jump start my truck so it can charge everything up again could go on and on but for a good car audio setup in a truck ill stsrt with that btw for mids and tweets i usualy do 6.5" components so thers a mid and seperate tweet in each corner in both the front and back of truck i slways have a crew cabs.. power wire is a whole other subject too long to add to this comment
@melvincooper8926 why thank you it's good to finally not get trolled when all I'm doing is trying to help one know how they could easily build them a quality reliable daily driver system that will last and last for years without buying extra stuff tgat you might not need so for that I thank you for that
Yet another video discussing Ohms Law without actually having a comprehensive understanding of tge subject at all. They do not understand the subjevt matter at all. They fail to understand the Load Amplifier Interface whatsoever. This is like lots meaning so far every video I have seen just spreads mostly misinformation Well done you tube your spreading it is beginning to excel
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The woman and man, on this video are actually just one ai computer bro 🤯
been in car audio for 25+ years and what ur discussing the basics of what people should consider when purchasing car audio equipmemt on the ohms when it comes to mids and highs i stick with class A/B amp running 4ohm load to 4 ohm mids and tweets when comes to subwoofers its different i usually run class D amp which are usually 1ohm stable to dual 2ohm dvc (dual voice coil) subs and pending how many subs will determine if i them in series or parallel or both cuz ill usually wire the 2ohm dvc sub at 4ohms so if u have 2 thats 2x 4ohms so drops load to 2 ohms and when u add a 3rd sub it drops down to 1.33ohm load and 4th sub drops it down to just barely under 1ohm which is safe on 1ohm capable class d amps you just need to make sure your subs rms recommended power say its 600 watts rms x4= 2400 so an amp that has a true 2500watt rms rating would easily run them without much strain on the amp or subs cuz u matched the power ratings however depending on vehicle ur getting to the territtory of does car produce the power needed i drive v8 trucks with factory high amp altenators so i can get away with the amp and subs along with like a 600.4 4 channel amp forbmids and highs i just add a secondary battery like an xs power d3100 for main battery and add xs power xp950 battery along with a dual battery isolator kit so it get charged safely and doesnt draw power when off from main battery and if by chance i drain main battery overnight leaving light on or something i can manually turn on isolator and let the secondary battery jump start my truck so it can charge everything up again could go on and on but for a good car audio setup in a truck ill stsrt with that btw for mids and tweets i usualy do 6.5" components so thers a mid and seperate tweet in each corner in both the front and back of truck i slways have a crew cabs.. power wire is a whole other subject too long to add to this comment
I don't think most understand the wealth of knowledge in your response. Well put!
@melvincooper8926 why thank you it's good to finally not get trolled when all I'm doing is trying to help one know how they could easily build them a quality reliable daily driver system that will last and last for years without buying extra stuff tgat you might not need so for that I thank you for that
Very helpful @mikemccabe7124. Thanks so much for posting!
GoogleLM is awesome!
Yet another video discussing Ohms Law without actually having a comprehensive understanding of tge subject at all.
They do not understand the subjevt matter at all.
They fail to understand the Load Amplifier Interface whatsoever.
This is like lots meaning so far every video I have seen just spreads mostly misinformation
Well done you tube your spreading it is beginning to excel
The woman and man, on this video are actually just one ai computer bro 🤯