I recently purchased the Zoom H2n and was like, "I wonder if Dave ever did a teardown of one of these audio recorders, I'm sure he has." Sure enough! He never lets me down. Thanks Dave!
Big thumbs up given, I'm an EE in training, and I used to tear things apart all the time...I couldn't tell you what I was tearing out of radios and power supplies back then but now thanks to you I'm amassing a very practical knowledge of both passives and identifying ICs. Thanks!
Very interesting! Thanks for sharing. I've been using one of these for 7 years and I needed to repair something. You made it very clear how it goes together.
Just picked up an as-new one complete with 2GB card for £4.50 in a charity shop. From what's on the card it looks like it was used to do some "Testing, testing" recordings then put away.
Esoterically fascinating. I'm a Cro-Magnon where electronics are concerned, but I found this interesting, and rather tranquil. As a musician, I just want to plug in and play/record, but I'm amazed by people who know how it all works. Thanks for the journey, and getting me much better acquainted with my Zoom.
That's absolutely right. Large numbers of Zoom H1 were produced with the defect, early on. They were accepting returns for replacement for a long time, perhaps still you can do this. I couldn't do it because I need it for my work. So, the workaround is never leave a battery in the unit. (The battery life while recording is unaffected; I have run it over 4 hours at times, LOVE this unit for backup audio at event videography. It saved my ass many times when main audio failed.)
this thing made my electret mics sound so much better, than connecting them directly into my pc. now im on a mic fever.. allready ordering parts for super low noise preamps and linear capsules ... damn zoom
Loving your videos, your humor and colorful use of the Aussie language adds to what could easily be made a bore. Keep it up, i look forward to your next tear down Tuesday!
this is a consumer unit if you were in any kind of production you would spend a little more and get the H2. it has production features, like real mic inputs, metal mounts better level controls etc.
@HomeDistiller, there was a firmware update some months ago. Now you can use the H1 as a usb mic... you can even choose sample rate and change the levels with the hardware buttons while in usb mic mode. You can still transfer files via usb, of course ;)
If the power switch comes off you can still turn it on. Put a toothpick in the top of the slot angled toward the ground at 45 degrees. Rake the toothpick toward you and you can feel it against the spring loaded switch the switch handle is supposed to pull
RTC's for PCs years ago came as an epoxy block about half the size of a pack of gum that had the batt inside. When the batt died, you bought another RTC!
No study, it's all still off the cuff. I don't open up, inspect, and them contemplate for while before recording. Although I have mostly learned to look up unknown chip part numbers before pressing record, instead of just taking a silly stab :->
Hello. I know this video is more than 5 years old now but it would be nice if i get a respond. I have the same issue as the man who wrote this down below: "... i have a problem with my zoom H1. it wont turn on.. and when i connect the usb cable is getting super hot...starting with the cip between C19 and IC3 .. where the power button is located ( on the other side.) and then going on all pcb and capacitors. is there a fix for that?". I'm hoping to find answers.
i stand corrected... and its about bloody time they did that, i found it very strange that it didnt in the first place. time to update the firmware on my H1 :D
Coupling caps (of the correct capacitance value) are a short for AC and so pass audio, while blocking DC from entering places where it might upset the circuitry or even cause damage. Smaller values do the same thing in radio ckts.
The basic functional principle of the devices are the same, the difference lays simply in what sort of electrolyte material is used. If you look up Sanyo's site on their well known OS-CONs it clearly states that the capacitors in this series uses conductive polymer or organic semiconductor electrolytes.
I think you've got to hold down one of the buttons as you turn the power on or something, I understand that's the case to access some features of the H1, though I must admit I've not used one, I've only heard demonstrations of them.
I'm a few months late to the party. Enjoyed your H1 Teardown. I've got the H4 and a Rode Video Mic, but looking to lighten my load. I like your style. I like to tinker with technolog/digital video -- just not as brave/courageous as you about tearing stuff down. Maybe you'll inspire me.
Very detailed teardown! What is that large piece of copper strip doing down below the battery? I have one of these that came in for repair, the user had forgotten to remove the drained out battery from it and kept it for a couple of years. Battery had leaked and it corroded that copper. Trying to give it a new lease of life.
That TI C55xx DSP has a number of "accelerated" audio codecs available for it However notably not MP3 ENcoder. So they must have licensed that above what's normally freely available, or rolled their own (and are probably paying royalties for it). Interestingly, it's also got AAC encoding which arguably has a better bitrate than comparable MP3 audio - I wonder if they'll bring out a Zoom H1.1 with an extra position on the switch to switch to AAC encoding
I'd love to see a teardown of a tascam dr7x recorder which I'm guessing has absolutely no shielding at all. Nice recorder but picks up every kind of interference from cellphones to routers to pocket calculators. Makes them pretty unreliable. And yet they look the business and in a controlled environment they are great machines.
Real-time clock does exactly what it says, it keeps a time, and depending on the chip's ability, date and other added features. The clocks are low power devices and are used in many products. The crystal is needed to help keep an accurate rate of time.
Well I've found out who the Australian distributor is, it's Dynamic Music in New South Wales, they've got them for $180 which seems pretty reasonable to me for a high quality digital recorder, it's cheaper than some of the Marantz recorders that came out a few years ago, but then I'm comparing a relatively new product to something that came out in 2005.
For only US$80 more, you can get its big brother, the H2n, which has 5 mics with adjustable patterns, recording in 4 tracks (2 internal + 2 external), 20-hour operation on two batts and power-loss recovery. 2GB SD card, optional 32GB. How can you resist?..
Thanks for the comprehensive H1 teardown! Unfortunately, I've just broken the LCD screen on mine: Can you tell me if the LCD screen is replaceable & if so what to order & who would supply me with the replacement?
Is it a 2 layer board? Having the copper shielding on top sure does give them a lot more PCB space to run traces :p Perhaps they needed the shielding separate to keep it to that size. I wonder if having someone cut and manually solder that piece on is more expensive than adding another pcb layer...
Good to see the aic3101, i'm using its 6mm big brother 3107 for my Final year project, includes a class d amp, but the foot print has been giving me eye strain
That's true, but you'd want to make sure the eBay seller is willing to swap or replace the unit should it break, and you'd want to be able to get technical support should you need it. But yeah eBay is generally pretty good for that sort of thing.
I'm impressed. It's as if you've already studied the circuitry. You're on your game, Dave. I've begun to improve a bit in my circuit identification thanks to you. They don't teach that in college; that's for sure! The old farts teaching theory probably don't even know what SMD components are.
great teardown mate, i have a Zoom H1 and its amazing but last week it stopped communicating with the computer via USB, so i cant transfer audio files using this method,strangely it powers the unit ok through the usb fine, ive op0ened the unit ,checked the usb connector for any obstructions etc, used different cables but to no avail, i know i can use a card reader to copy the audio files but usb was so useful thanks again
Oooo. Had this years ago and hardly used it. Now started to use it again however the battery had leaked in it. That's fine and cleaned it, but now use it more discover it chews batteries like there is no tomorrow so pretty useless on battery.
I’m still trying to figure out how you got the case separated from the back! 😣 Mine will not come apart! I got the two screws out, but the base will not separate no matter how much I try! I don’t want to break it more than it already is!
have one of these and used it to record my band practices. That auto gain control had to be switched off. could never figure it out-the louder the band played the smaller and more compressed it got. We got good results by passing auto gain and mucking around with the position of the unit - just as you would any mic. surprisingly bloody good little piece of kit. When you do these tear-downs - do you always mange to get them back together and in working order? love the tear downs...
-> "solid state" capacitor is more of a buzzword than an actual description, as most types of capacitors are solid state components. What they actually mean is an electrolyte capacitor with a solid electrolyte like a conductive polymer or organic semiconducting material. However, the type of package the capacitors in the video has are used for all types of electrolytes, including wet, without the data sheet it is difficult to say what electrolyte is used.
Do you think it would be hard to mod a H1 recorder to act as a binural mic (put the microphones in ears distance from each other)? For someone who is just a beginner when it comes to electronics?
For voice, the lo-cut switch works well. For music, get a shock mount that accommodates that standard camera thread. The elastic band types work the best. It's impossible to isolate built-in mics from low freq shocks. If you're handy, you can build your own.
thanks dave, as a pro audio tech I love Teardown Tuesday, every think about troubleshooting thursday, I know a few designers and, for the most part they lack troubleshooting skills ( the few I know) what do you think? well back to the marshall amp for me
I've heard a lot of things about these Zoom Handy recorders, mostly from the Blind Cool Tech podcast, but I've only had a brief play with the Zoom H2. Who's the Australian distributor for Zoom, that's indeed there is one?
Looks cheap . . . I wonder how long it would last (or if it would even be usable) in any kind of production scenario. They probably skimped on the mics, and the mounting of the mics.
If anyone bought one of the originals of this device a firmware was released to allow it to operate as a usb microphone / sound card. Only 16 bit 48khz recording however.
Odd, the specs claim 10-hour operation, but 9.5-hour battery life. I guess for that last half hour, just have to do without power. :-) Why did you get the unit? I seem to remember that you already had a mic setup with your camcorder.
I am considering getting this recorder and i am investigating is it possible to add connector that would allow attaching remote button control start and stop of recording. I see there is some room, but I do not have good sense of real dimensions. What is your opinion, is it doable, maybe adding some super tiny 2.5mm connector?
I need to use this for recording lectures, and have tried several different external mics. All of them result in significant hiss. I want to unsolder the microphones and insert cables around 2 meters, so I can attach the microphones to the podium mic. Do you think this will work, or, will I end up with RFI issues or other transmission line noise, ring, etc.?
Hi, great video! Did you try to check the consumption of energy? It seems that some series of the product experienced trouble. Battery is drained in some hours! Even if its Off thanks and regards
@@achmadmarendes In the comments of this post you can find the solution. Basically you need to replace a capacitor. I'll try it as well on mine. (cheesycam.com/zoom-h1-battery-drain/)
Hello , i have a problem with my zoom H1. it wont turn on.. and when i connect the usb cable is getting super hot...starting with the cip between C19 and IC3 .. where the power button is located ( on the other side.) and then going on all pcb and capacitors. is there a fix for that?
I was recording with my zoom h1 connecting it on my pc. There was a battery inside too. Suddenly it stopped working. Not turning on. I loved the device, the sound quality was awesome.
could it circuit bended to improve it's recording quality? What about better microphone addons or wireless audio recording with a tiny microphone held some where else, you know like spying.
I propose a new theme - "Wankword Wednesday". Pick an EE wankword and explain it in 'normal' words. Although this may end up with you reviewing lots of audio equipment.
I thought the whole purpose of stereo recording was to capture phase differences between the two channels. If the mic is equidistant from any sound source, how would you get any stereo effect?
Stereo effect depends not only on phase difference, but also on sound pressure level difference, achieved here by using cardioid pattern microphones, I suppose.
I recently purchased the Zoom H2n and was like, "I wonder if Dave ever did a teardown of one of these audio recorders, I'm sure he has." Sure enough! He never lets me down. Thanks Dave!
Big thumbs up given, I'm an EE in training, and I used to tear things apart all the time...I couldn't tell you what I was tearing out of radios and power supplies back then but now thanks to you I'm amassing a very practical knowledge of both passives and identifying ICs.
Thanks!
Very interesting! Thanks for sharing. I've been using one of these for 7 years and I needed to repair something. You made it very clear how it goes together.
Just picked up an as-new one complete with 2GB card for £4.50 in a charity shop. From what's on the card it looks like it was used to do some "Testing, testing" recordings then put away.
I just bought Zoom H1n and was curious what's inside. Very informative video still after 9 years.
If someone's wondering, that "BDT" QFN10 part is a TI TPS61025DRC 3.3V 1.5A boost converter.
Nicely spotted!
Esoterically fascinating. I'm a Cro-Magnon where electronics are concerned, but I found this interesting, and rather tranquil. As a musician, I just want to plug in and play/record, but I'm amazed by people who know how it all works. Thanks for the journey, and getting me much better acquainted with my Zoom.
The USB mic function is in the manual. There is a selection menu when you plug it in.
Your new teardown segment is quality. Keep it up mate.
Love the teardowns, interesting to see the insides of a zoom. I highly rate them as recorders, especially for the price.
That's absolutely right. Large numbers of Zoom H1 were produced with the defect, early on. They were accepting returns for replacement for a long time, perhaps still you can do this. I couldn't do it because I need it for my work. So, the workaround is never leave a battery in the unit. (The battery life while recording is unaffected; I have run it over 4 hours at times, LOVE this unit for backup audio at event videography. It saved my ass many times when main audio failed.)
this thing made my electret mics sound so much better, than connecting them directly into my pc.
now im on a mic fever.. allready ordering parts for super low noise preamps and linear capsules ... damn zoom
That's the third time I found you regarding stuff I was looking into. This time you've got a subscription. Thanks! =)
Loving your videos, your humor and colorful use of the Aussie language adds to what could easily be made a bore. Keep it up, i look forward to your next tear down Tuesday!
No idea, I got mine from the US when it was first released. Plenty local seem to sell them at a premium though.
Yeah, realised when I got home to edit that I didn't hit record for that segment, so had to bodge it with the still image and voice-over!
The unit records the time and date. A low power 32.768KHz oscillator is needed to keep that running when the unit is turned off.
If it lost date/time immediately then I need to replace this oscillator?
this is a consumer unit if you were in any kind of production you would spend a little more and get the H2. it has production features, like real mic inputs, metal mounts better level controls etc.
@HomeDistiller, there was a firmware update some months ago. Now you can use the H1 as a usb mic... you can even choose sample rate and change the levels with the hardware buttons while in usb mic mode. You can still transfer files via usb, of course ;)
If the power switch comes off you can still turn it on. Put a toothpick in the top of the slot angled toward the ground at 45 degrees. Rake the toothpick toward you and you can feel it against the spring loaded switch the switch handle is supposed to pull
With the 1.1 firmware update it can be used as a USB mic and DAC.
Thanks for the reply.
I found them and ordered a pack.
RTC's for PCs years ago came as an epoxy block about half the size of a pack of gum that had the batt inside. When the batt died, you bought another RTC!
But almost double the US price unfortunately. Cranbourne Music have it for $139 delivered.
No study, it's all still off the cuff. I don't open up, inspect, and them contemplate for while before recording. Although I have mostly learned to look up unknown chip part numbers before pressing record, instead of just taking a silly stab :->
Hello. I know this video is more than 5 years old now but it would be nice if i get a respond. I have the same issue as the man who wrote this down below: "... i have a problem with my zoom H1. it wont turn on.. and when i connect the usb cable is getting super hot...starting with the cip between C19 and IC3 .. where the power button is located ( on the other side.) and then going on all pcb and capacitors. is there a fix for that?".
I'm hoping to find answers.
i stand corrected... and its about bloody time they did that, i found it very strange that it didnt in the first place. time to update the firmware on my H1 :D
Coupling caps (of the correct capacitance value) are a short for AC and so pass audio, while blocking DC from entering places where it might upset the circuitry or even cause damage. Smaller values do the same thing in radio ckts.
Awesome Dave. You are the man!!!!
The basic functional principle of the devices are the same, the difference lays simply in what sort of electrolyte material is used. If you look up Sanyo's site on their well known OS-CONs it clearly states that the capacitors in this series uses conductive polymer or organic semiconductor electrolytes.
I think you've got to hold down one of the buttons as you turn the power on or something, I understand that's the case to access some features of the H1, though I must admit I've not used one, I've only heard demonstrations of them.
Oh my God, you opened it!
I'm a few months late to the party. Enjoyed your H1 Teardown. I've got the H4 and a Rode Video Mic, but looking to lighten my load. I like your style. I like to tinker with technolog/digital video -- just not as brave/courageous as you about tearing stuff down. Maybe you'll inspire me.
Very detailed teardown! What is that large piece of copper strip doing down below the battery? I have one of these that came in for repair, the user had forgotten to remove the drained out battery from it and kept it for a couple of years. Battery had leaked and it corroded that copper. Trying to give it a new lease of life.
The C540x is certainly the MP3 decoder and the C55 is the main DSP used .
great teardown !!
That TI C55xx DSP has a number of "accelerated" audio codecs available for it
However notably not MP3 ENcoder. So they must have licensed that above what's normally freely available, or rolled their own (and are probably paying royalties for it). Interestingly, it's also got AAC encoding which arguably has a better bitrate than comparable MP3 audio - I wonder if they'll bring out a Zoom H1.1 with an extra position on the switch to switch to AAC encoding
I belive the mic set up is called x y stereo micing if i recall from when i did my audio tech course 10 years back
I'd love to see a teardown of a tascam dr7x recorder which I'm guessing has absolutely no shielding at all. Nice recorder but picks up every kind of interference from cellphones to routers to pocket calculators. Makes them pretty unreliable. And yet they look the business and in a controlled environment they are great machines.
It can't charge, it's for SD card data transfer or a USB mic interface.
Real-time clock does exactly what it says, it keeps a time, and depending on the chip's ability, date and other added features. The clocks are low power devices and are used in many products. The crystal is needed to help keep an accurate rate of time.
Is there a separate battery to keep rtc working?
Wow, you really should be using one of these instead of you cam mic!
2020 and i say TNX MAN )) you save my time ! Great job !!!
No, I deliberately call it wav instead of wave.
Well I've found out who the Australian distributor is, it's Dynamic Music in New South Wales, they've got them for $180 which seems pretty reasonable to me for a high quality digital recorder, it's cheaper than some of the Marantz recorders that came out a few years ago, but then I'm comparing a relatively new product to something that came out in 2005.
Love the videos dave, keep up the great work
For only US$80 more, you can get its big brother, the H2n, which has 5 mics with adjustable patterns, recording in 4 tracks (2 internal + 2 external), 20-hour operation on two batts and power-loss recovery. 2GB SD card, optional 32GB. How can you resist?..
my on/off switch jumped out of machine, lucky i found it but have it taped in place now
Thanks for the comprehensive H1 teardown! Unfortunately, I've just broken the LCD screen on mine: Can you tell me if the LCD screen is replaceable & if so what to order & who would supply me with the replacement?
Is it a 2 layer board?
Having the copper shielding on top sure does give them a lot more PCB space to run traces :p Perhaps they needed the shielding separate to keep it to that size. I wonder if having someone cut and manually solder that piece on is more expensive than adding another pcb layer...
Good to see the aic3101, i'm using its 6mm big brother 3107 for my Final year project, includes a class d amp, but the foot print has been giving me eye strain
That's true, but you'd want to make sure the eBay seller is willing to swap or replace the unit should it break, and you'd want to be able to get technical support should you need it. But yeah eBay is generally pretty good for that sort of thing.
dont think I mentioned yet, I love teardown tuesdays
Love it! You can't even tell that you haven't seen it before. You're a walking catalog LOL!
That digikey catalog joke was true!
There are three screws, I also missed the one near the speaker, opening the lower portion without unscrewing destroyed the hole where it is inserted.
I'm impressed. It's as if you've already studied the circuitry. You're on your game, Dave.
I've begun to improve a bit in my circuit identification thanks to you. They don't teach that in college; that's for sure! The old farts teaching theory probably don't even know what SMD components are.
great teardown mate, i have a Zoom H1 and its amazing but last week it stopped communicating with the computer via USB, so i cant transfer audio files using this method,strangely it powers the unit ok through the usb fine, ive op0ened the unit ,checked the usb connector for any obstructions etc, used different cables but to no avail, i know i can use a card reader to copy the audio files but usb was so useful thanks again
Did you try it on another computer?
I know. I prefer to call it "wav".
Oooo. Had this years ago and hardly used it. Now started to use it again however the battery had leaked in it. That's fine and cleaned it, but now use it more discover it chews batteries like there is no tomorrow so pretty useless on battery.
Ever think of doing a throwback teardown on a full size VHS camera? Ive got a few that need new belts.
I’m still trying to figure out how you got the case separated from the back! 😣 Mine will not come apart! I got the two screws out, but the base will not separate no matter how much I try! I don’t want to break it more than it already is!
Does anyone know the internal mics model number?
have one of these and used it to record my band practices. That auto gain control had to be switched off. could never figure it out-the louder the band played the smaller and more compressed it got. We got good results by passing auto gain and mucking around with the position of the unit - just as you would any mic. surprisingly bloody good little piece of kit. When you do these tear-downs - do you always mange to get them back together and in working order? love the tear downs...
-> "solid state" capacitor is more of a buzzword than an actual description, as most types of capacitors are solid state components. What they actually mean is an electrolyte capacitor with a solid electrolyte like a conductive polymer or organic semiconducting material. However, the type of package the capacitors in the video has are used for all types of electrolytes, including wet, without the data sheet it is difficult to say what electrolyte is used.
How about a teardown comparison with an H4N to see what you get for four times the price. That would be pretty cool.
Yay another teardown, keep it going :)
The capacitors referred to as "solid state" are electrolytic capacitors...
Way too many iPad teardowns on UA-cam.
that's what I figured . . . fair enough . . . thanks for the info
Oh, i see. Great video by the way. I am looking to buy a sound recorder, might just get this one.
I'm not sure if you can recharge batteries in this recorder, the USB port I'm pretty sure it's for data transfer from the SD card.
Ebay. It's called spudger.
I had never heard wankword before, but now plan to add it to my regular vocabulary. The things your viewers learn from these videos :-)
Do you think it would be hard to mod a H1 recorder to act as a binural mic (put the microphones in ears distance from each other)? For someone who is just a beginner when it comes to electronics?
Try ASMR Oooh by the way, love your videos! :)
Try ASMR Buy an external mic for it, do NOT mess with the internal mics, you'll mess it up.
Well? How to fix the handling noise issue of the internal mics?
For voice, the lo-cut switch works well. For music, get a shock mount that accommodates that standard camera thread. The elastic band types work the best. It's impossible to isolate built-in mics from low freq shocks. If you're handy, you can build your own.
thanks dave, as a pro audio tech I love Teardown Tuesday, every think about troubleshooting thursday, I know a few designers and, for the most part they lack troubleshooting skills ( the few I know) what do you think? well back to the marshall amp for me
When I move my H1, I always hear some noise that I think there is a loosen part in it but I really struggle to open the device cover to check.
I've heard a lot of things about these Zoom Handy recorders, mostly from the Blind Cool Tech podcast, but I've only had a brief play with the Zoom H2. Who's the Australian distributor for Zoom, that's indeed there is one?
did you flip the bottom board on us at 19:33 cose suddenly its facing a different direction.??
Thanks for the video. apparently my mic has a screw near the cell and I was almost about to rip my mic apart without unscrewing it..LOl
i've ripped the screwmount by accident
On 4:44, where did you buy that spatula? A real handy tool.
those are NOT electrolytic capacitors.
they are SOLID STATE caps ...
no they CANT be used as a usb mic!!!! the usb is only for file transfer..
Looks cheap . . . I wonder how long it would last (or if it would even be usable) in any kind of production scenario. They probably skimped on the mics, and the mounting of the mics.
If anyone bought one of the originals of this device a firmware was released to allow it to operate as a usb microphone / sound card. Only 16 bit 48khz recording however.
my battery has corroded inside or it's got wet. all the copper has rusted away, won't power on. so the copper shield must be part of the circuit.
Odd, the specs claim 10-hour operation, but 9.5-hour battery life. I guess for that last half hour, just have to do without power. :-)
Why did you get the unit? I seem to remember that you already had a mic setup with your camcorder.
I am considering getting this recorder and i am investigating is it possible to add connector that would allow attaching remote button control start and stop of recording. I see there is some room, but I do not have good sense of real dimensions. What is your opinion, is it doable, maybe adding some super tiny 2.5mm connector?
and i thought you said you didn't read the manual
Awesome Teardown!!! Great job! Well done!
Where have you learned all this?
John Lauinger Learned all what? Read some books, get some experience, read some datasheets.
Hey, I've got an idea, why don't you tear down a Speak And Spell without circuit bending it.
I need to use this for recording lectures, and have tried several different external mics. All of them result in significant hiss. I want to unsolder the microphones and insert cables around 2 meters, so I can attach the microphones to the podium mic. Do you think this will work, or, will I end up with RFI issues or other transmission line noise, ring, etc.?
Hi, great video!
Did you try to check the consumption of energy? It seems that some series of the product experienced trouble. Battery is drained in some hours! Even if its Off
thanks and regards
I encountered this same problem
@@achmadmarendes In the comments of this post you can find the solution. Basically you need to replace a capacitor. I'll try it as well on mine. (cheesycam.com/zoom-h1-battery-drain/)
Hello , i have a problem with my zoom H1. it wont turn on.. and when i connect the usb cable is getting super hot...starting with the cip between C19 and IC3 .. where the power button is located ( on the other side.) and then going on all pcb and capacitors. is there a fix for that?
Why nobody responds on this? I have the same issue.
same(
I wonder if you found a solution.
I was recording with my zoom h1 connecting it on my pc. There was a battery inside too. Suddenly it stopped working. Not turning on. I loved the device, the sound quality was awesome.
Anyone here find a solution yet?
could it circuit bended to improve it's recording quality? What about better microphone addons or wireless audio recording with a tiny microphone held some where else, you know like spying.
Not getting, got!
Delete button in my H1 stopped working suddenly. Is there any solution for this?
To the uploader, have you understand what those unused connections are for?
I propose a new theme - "Wankword Wednesday". Pick an EE wankword and explain it in 'normal' words. Although this may end up with you reviewing lots of audio equipment.
Mine stopped powering up, what capacitors can I get for this and where?
I thought the whole purpose of stereo recording was to capture phase differences between the two channels. If the mic is equidistant from any sound source, how would you get any stereo effect?
Stereo effect depends not only on phase difference, but also on sound pressure level difference, achieved here by using cardioid pattern microphones, I suppose.