Be sure to remove the cap SLOWLY to relieve pressure on the system. You will likely avoid the big geyser when removing the sensor. Also, be sure to use BMW coolant which is blue, instead of green :)Enjoy!
Burp your coolant first before buying anything. The expansion tank coolant level would be at “normal” level even though the system is full of air! Air causes overheating. I did this with my E39. Opened up the bleeder screw, and did a bleeding procedure. The thing took in literally 1 gallon of coolant even though it showed the expansion tank was full. Turns out it was full of air and when all the air was replaced by coolant the overheating was solved! No new parts. No labor cost.
Sorry to be offtopic but does anybody know a method to log back into an instagram account?? I stupidly forgot my password. I would appreciate any assistance you can give me!
@Harley Creed Thanks for your reply. I got to the site thru google and I'm in the hacking process atm. I see it takes quite some time so I will reply here later with my results.
Tip. E46 Overheats when AC is on. I recommend taking out the radiator every 5 years and clean the dust and sand that’s sandwiched between the AC condenser and the radiator. Overtime, it forms a thick blanket of dust and sand that blocks air from going through to the radiator. that’s what happened to me. After cleaning the blanket of dirt & sand the AC fan no longer required to run at high-speed when AC is on. Problem solved. If you’ve noticed that your AC fan must run at high-speed to cool down the temp it’s probably time for a cleaning.
2005 BMW 330i E46 runs hot on idle only .. AC on .. electric fan comes on full speed only .. i changed fan coolant switch (Temp switch) no change .. disconnected the AUC (no change) .. changed fan clutch (no change) .. the electric fan works full speed only .. inside temp gauge goes to 3/4 way up.. if you rev engine to 2000 RPM .. car cools back down and AC comes back cold .. no white cloud out the tail pipe.. no milky oil... can the electric fan running be running too fast ? there are no leaks.. pressure tested good.. please advise.
@@cya3651 radiator is new.. not losing any coolant.. temp sensor controls the gauge inside ... the problem again is when you start the car cold.. AC on .. electric fan comes on .. all remains cool for 15 min.. then electric fan stops .. temp gauge goes up to 3/4 way up .. no more cold AC inside.. why is the electric fan stopping ? .. any idea ?
3 things I can think off. if the AC fan only works for 15-20 minutes and then stop working. it may be your engine coolant temp sensor located under the intake manifold. It’s only a $20 sensor so you should replace that if you are able to. I have also heard that if the lower coolant hose temp sensor is bad it could also cause overheat. Last, i would replace the AC fan. You can get one from a junkyard or try Facebook market or craigslist. Good luck
@@cya3651 it was the thermostat .. stuck closed.. took it out and bench tested it was frozen shut..i initially ruled it out because it was only 2 years old (after market junk) .. i replaced it today .. car ran for 30 minute on idle.. not a glitch... thanks so much for working with me
Hey guys, I changed the radiator on my E46 330i along with the expansion tank, HEPU water pump, Febi thermostat, Gates upper and lower hoses, Febi coolant temperature sensor. But the fan no longer runs in low and medium mode. When it runs, it’s always at full speed. Sometimes the fan doesn’t turn on and the needle goes past middle. I replaced the temperature sensor from Febi to a Hella but no difference. My cousin even used INPA to run the fan at different speeds and it works perfectly. I have exhausted all efforts to find the problem. Any help would be much appreciated. Thank you! Great video as always Han
The O-Ring costs so much less to replace.. That is the part of the sensor that wears out; not to sensor itself. Also, BMW made bad expansion tanks that need to be replaced every so often.
I have no leaks, I replaced all the hoses including the hard pipes under the intake, Radiator and the exspasnion, im replacing the tank again. Now, I just got that temp switch imw acting for the car to cool down. My radiator fan (original) I I stalled a switch for it to control it because the fan wouldn't turn off for nothing. So I manual turn it on and off. Mines a 5speed manual. Def no cracked head gasket. It was just fine last night until I hit a curb I couldn't see at night. Dark as hell and now it droves funny. Plus I have a fuel cut off issue, I've replaced 1300 bucks worth of parts tryna fix that fuel cut off. Now my engine is jumping since I hit that thing last night. Idk if it damaged the mount for the engine or what. The car is on shitty coil overs, bumpy and annoying. Anyways I'm gonna be getting a new thermostat and a water pump and the other coolant sensor in the back. If it still over heats there's a problem somewhere.
I have a 2002 330i BMW and it overheats. I'll do as you say in the video but I need to know one more thing. What coolant should I use for the car? Also when I buy the coolant do I need to mix it with water or no? If you could please reach out as soon as possible it'll be great, and also keep up with the good videos 👍
What brand was the sensor you got from Amazon? I've been using Febi Bilstein for my camshaft and IAT sensors as they look like they're debranded OEM parts and they seem to be working fine. I even managed to get a Febi Throttle body for £20 ($30-ish) which looks like a debranded OEM Siemens-VDO part.
Hey i seem to have the same overheating problem as you im not sure if i need a new fan, a new sensor, or a new pump. the aux fan keeps going on and off but never seems to go at a constant speed im not sure if its not suppose to or what. a reply would really help me out i have a automatic 03 BMW 325i
1) Did the new OEM sensor solve the problem? 2) Does that sensor only drive the fam speed? 3) Is there a different sensor that shows the in-dash temperature?
Yes,! It is the Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor which is located on the cylinder head. The intake manifold and basically the driver's side of the engine need to be removed. Not a hard or easy DIY, just time consuming.
Nice video i have the same problem with my 1999 BMW 323 i , over heating the mechanic said its the fan bearing needs to change. what do you think , should i change the cooling temp sensor as well........thanks
I just changed my belts and found out the old belt tensioner which is mechanical with a spring can get weak and cause belt slippage. There is an upgraded hydraulic replacement. I was wondering if this is possible cause of overheating when the belt slips. Just one of the many overheating causes.
And when you attach the top of the coolant temp sensor on part you removed does that connector suppose to turn any if not i think its been tampered with n is i part reason i may of also been getting temp reading as it had been...
It's mind boggling to me the for at least the last 10yrs BMW has had overheating problems and apparently are grossly incompetent to resolve the issue. Mini coopers and Beemers are just an eternal money pit......glad I traded my X3 for a Prius !😀
Hello a local guy is selling a 01 325i that is overheating for $800. He say he hasn't had time to diagnose it or the money for parts. I was wondering what are the chances the head gasket is blown? It's a manual and I'd like to use it as a inexpensive track day car.
steve71 it really depends on how bad it was overheating. Worst case would be blown head gasket and warped engine block. That would be very expensive to fix and not worth buying. Best case is coolant sensors and fan
No this is to cool your radiator for the engine temperature. When your engine gets too hot and you're not moving fast enough the fan kicks on to cool your engine. Most of the time when you are sitting in bumper to bumper traffic your fan needs to turn on to cool your engine 😎
Hey I just fixed my overheating prob but I have a question , is it normal that now my coolant hoses are really hard once it gets to operating temp ? because I never noticed until the after the repair ...they don't buldge out or anything but they feel like there is a LOT of pressure in the cooling system ...if you guys could help me that would be great thanks the e46 is a 01 325i with 96k miles on it
yes it is normal!. Once your engine gets to the operating temperature there is going to be HOT coolant cycling around and as you know the laws of physics, heat expands so its perfectly normal for your hoses feel harder. No worries!
Han's Garage ...ok great I was alarmed at first I never noticed them like that before ...but The temp is dead center on the gauge so I assume everything is ok ..no leaks either thank you Han!!
Its not normal for them to be super hard, it can lead to your expansion tank or rad bursting. You need to bleed the cooling system properly, using the bleed screw just near the coolant cap and also turn the heater on and have the ignition in position 2: The following courtesy of Mango www.e46mango.com/2014/10/hi-this-is-mango-from-e46fanatics.html Raise front of car on ramps (Not necessary, but recommended) CAUTION: ONLY DO THIS WHEN CAR IS COOL AND ENGINE IS OFF. At no point should the engine be turned on. 1) Remove expansion tank cap and bleed screw and set aside 2) Turn ignition to ON (dash lights on but do NOT start the car) 3) Set heat to MAXIMUM (90) and fan speed to low (this opens heater valve) 4) Begin to fill your expansion tank with ideally a 50/50 mix of Genuine BMW coolant and distilled water (do not use anything else--no reason to. The proper stuff is cheap) The system might take a while to swallow the water. Massage the hoses if you think it will help. Keep pouring. Water will begin to pour out of the bleed screw hole with air bubbles. The point is to keep filling and filling until the bubbles are gone. This may take a while--be patient. 5) Once you are satisfied that a continual stream of bubble-free water is emerging from the bleed hole and that your cooling system is adequately filled, go ahead and replace the bleed screw (do not overtighten). The expansion tank will be full to the top at this point so you'll need to siphon off any excess so that the appropriate tank level can be achieved.
Carlton Banks u know I figured as much I drove it today an I my car almost over heated so I shut it off an then I opened up the expansion tank an bled the system for a second time lol idk what happened but now the hoses are normal much softer an a LOT of air came out of the bleed screw an then some coolant but all good now
Yeah, the system is still under pressure when you pull the sensor, I learned the same way you did. I think you have to release the pressure by the filler cap or something.
Memeancholy best way to reduce the pressure is to simply wait til the coolant is cold, as even opening the filler cap the coolant could still explode out... it was a daft thing to do especially since he knew the engine was still hot
@@renragged besides that sensor there are a lot of other parts that are way overpriced for this old car. I've had mine for over 10 years and it's a love hate thing lol.
Mal P The coolant is made for systems with a lot of plastic components like BMWs. I usually run OEM fluids, for the couple extra dollars I'd rather be safe.
Tool0GT92 plastic has been used in coolant components for many years, also coolant isn't corrosive towards plastic in anyway at all.. the costs for "special coolant" is for commercial reasons only IE to make more money... you can buy company own brands away from the vehicle specific brand & still have the same effects. the main reason behind specific coolant is only for regional conditions IE -75 & so on, the temperature is what effects the coolant usage. they all have anti-rust agents, most if not all come in contact with plastic again coolant doesn't effect nor eat away at any plastics nor rubbers.. so overall no you don't need to stick with BMW specific brands
Tool0GT92 Aw adding more to the point most manufacturer's use plastic components throughout the car, not out if necessity but for cost & ease of manufacturing. Bmw use both metal & plastic depending on how the components fair up.. sometimes they'll upgrade plastic parts back to metal for reliabalilty ie water pump impeller.. some begun as plastic only to be replaced by metal ones later on
@@ignacioromero5014 I'm just using green coolant in my car that I spent 1800 dollars for. I'm not saying anything just showing what I did. Thanks for watching :)
2002 330i my gauge goes hot and then back to normal after i replace the expansion tank and no antifreeze in there so i have to add antifreeze otherwise the expansion tank will smoke. Any suggestions. Thanks
Be sure to remove the cap SLOWLY to relieve pressure on the system. You will likely avoid the big geyser when removing the sensor. Also, be sure to use BMW coolant which is blue, instead of green :)Enjoy!
Thank God, a person who did the video without a bunch of BS, right to the point!!!! Great video..
You are so Lucky the cooling wather was not hot.
Burp your coolant first before buying anything. The expansion tank coolant level would be at “normal” level even though the system is full of air! Air causes overheating. I did this with my E39. Opened up the bleeder screw, and did a bleeding procedure. The thing took in literally 1 gallon of coolant even though it showed the expansion tank was full. Turns out it was full of air and when all the air was replaced by coolant the overheating was solved! No new parts. No labor cost.
Sorry to be offtopic but does anybody know a method to log back into an instagram account??
I stupidly forgot my password. I would appreciate any assistance you can give me!
@Raymond Leighton Instablaster :)
@Harley Creed Thanks for your reply. I got to the site thru google and I'm in the hacking process atm.
I see it takes quite some time so I will reply here later with my results.
@Harley Creed It worked and I now got access to my account again. Im so happy:D
Thanks so much, you really help me out :D
@Raymond Leighton glad I could help :D
Oh my goodness, I love your videos! I just got an E46 and I cant wait to do more with it!
Tip. E46 Overheats when AC is on. I recommend taking out the radiator every 5 years and clean the dust and sand that’s sandwiched between the AC condenser and the radiator. Overtime, it forms a thick blanket of dust and sand that blocks air from going through to the radiator. that’s what happened to me. After cleaning the blanket of dirt & sand the AC fan no longer required to run at high-speed when AC is on. Problem solved.
If you’ve noticed that your AC fan must run at high-speed to cool down the temp it’s probably time for a cleaning.
2005 BMW 330i E46 runs hot on idle only .. AC on .. electric fan comes on full speed only .. i changed fan coolant switch (Temp switch) no change .. disconnected the AUC (no change) .. changed fan clutch (no change) .. the electric fan works full speed only .. inside temp gauge goes to 3/4 way up.. if you rev engine to 2000 RPM .. car cools back down and AC comes back cold .. no white cloud out the tail pipe.. no milky oil... can the electric fan running be running too fast ? there are no leaks.. pressure tested good.. please advise.
@@cya3651 I already checked that first.. no debris.. no dust ..
@@cya3651 radiator is new.. not losing any coolant.. temp sensor controls the gauge inside ... the problem again is when you start the car cold.. AC on .. electric fan comes on .. all remains cool for 15 min.. then electric fan stops .. temp gauge goes up to 3/4 way up .. no more cold AC inside.. why is the electric fan stopping ? .. any idea ?
3 things I can think off.
if the AC fan only works for 15-20 minutes and then stop working. it may be your engine coolant temp sensor located under the intake manifold. It’s only a $20 sensor so you should replace that if you are able to.
I have also heard that if the lower coolant hose temp sensor is bad it could also cause overheat.
Last, i would replace the AC fan. You can get one from a junkyard or try Facebook market or craigslist.
Good luck
@@cya3651 it was the thermostat .. stuck closed.. took it out and bench tested it was frozen shut..i initially ruled it out because it was only 2 years old (after market junk) .. i replaced it today .. car ran for 30 minute on idle.. not a glitch... thanks so much for working with me
you can OHM the sensor and compare the resistance with the new, it has high resistance when cold and low resistance when warm.
Hey guys,
I changed the radiator on my E46 330i along with the expansion tank, HEPU water pump, Febi thermostat, Gates upper and lower hoses, Febi coolant temperature sensor. But the fan no longer runs in low and medium mode. When it runs, it’s always at full speed. Sometimes the fan doesn’t turn on and the needle goes past middle. I replaced the temperature sensor from Febi to a Hella but no difference. My cousin even used INPA to run the fan at different speeds and it works perfectly.
I have exhausted all efforts to find the problem.
Any help would be much appreciated.
Thank you!
Great video as always Han
Find the issue yet?
Not BMW coolant. BMW uses European blue. That was not blue.
The O-Ring costs so much less to replace.. That is the part of the sensor that wears out; not to sensor itself. Also, BMW made bad expansion tanks that need to be replaced every so often.
It's more like a intermittent headgasket issue , the head warps as it warning...
Can we retorted head bolts in that circumstance?
re-engage is certainly a word, no worries there.
Andrew Underwood thank you kind sir
I replace the the same thing but my engine was cold, so not splash.
I have no leaks, I replaced all the hoses including the hard pipes under the intake, Radiator and the exspasnion, im replacing the tank again. Now, I just got that temp switch imw acting for the car to cool down. My radiator fan (original) I I stalled a switch for it to control it because the fan wouldn't turn off for nothing. So I manual turn it on and off. Mines a 5speed manual. Def no cracked head gasket. It was just fine last night until I hit a curb I couldn't see at night. Dark as hell and now it droves funny. Plus I have a fuel cut off issue, I've replaced 1300 bucks worth of parts tryna fix that fuel cut off. Now my engine is jumping since I hit that thing last night. Idk if it damaged the mount for the engine or what. The car is on shitty coil overs, bumpy and annoying. Anyways I'm gonna be getting a new thermostat and a water pump and the other coolant sensor in the back. If it still over heats there's a problem somewhere.
He is quite lucky he did not burn himself opening up a hot cooling system with bare hands. Either wear gloves or wait until things cool down.
I'm looking at all the images.
역시 자랑스러운 한국인입니다~^^
+DAVID WANG Thank you!
I have a 2002 330i BMW and it overheats. I'll do as you say in the video but I need to know one more thing. What coolant should I use for the car? Also when I buy the coolant do I need to mix it with water or no? If you could please reach out as soon as possible it'll be great, and also keep up with the good videos 👍
Mauricio Munoz you can buy coolant from autozone and they have ones that are already mixed with distilled water :)
What brand was the sensor you got from Amazon? I've been using Febi Bilstein for my camshaft and IAT sensors as they look like they're debranded OEM parts and they seem to be working fine. I even managed to get a Febi Throttle body for £20 ($30-ish) which looks like a debranded OEM Siemens-VDO part.
“I decided to do this procedure while my engine is still hot because I am in a hurry and can’t wait” *waits 30 minutes to see if car overheats* lol
Thank you brother.
Hey i seem to have the same overheating problem as you im not sure if i need a new fan, a new sensor, or a new pump. the aux fan keeps going on and off but never seems to go at a constant speed im not sure if its not suppose to or what. a reply would really help me out i have a automatic 03 BMW 325i
1) Did the new OEM sensor solve the problem? 2) Does that sensor only drive the fam speed? 3) Is there a different sensor that shows the in-dash temperature?
Yes,!
It is the Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor which is located on the cylinder head.
The intake manifold and basically the driver's side of the engine need to be removed.
Not a hard or easy DIY, just time consuming.
Nice video i have the same problem with my 1999 BMW 323 i , over heating the mechanic said its the fan bearing needs to change. what do you think , should i change the cooling temp sensor as well........thanks
Sometimes ya gotta learn the hard way... Thankfully, you posted this video so WE could learn from YOUR mistake! :P
Your coolant is green man, it’s supposed to be blue or pink. Cool video man!
My car is hulk. It needs green :)
HAN'S GARAGE hahahaha!
I just changed my belts and found out the old belt tensioner which is mechanical with a spring can get weak and cause belt slippage. There is an upgraded hydraulic replacement. I was wondering if this is possible cause of overheating when the belt slips. Just one of the many overheating causes.
And when you attach the top of the coolant temp sensor on part you removed does that connector suppose to turn any if not i think its been tampered with n is i part reason i may of also been getting temp reading as it had been...
You should measure the resistance of the sensor, I bet it is just PT100 element.
Amazon parts...so untrustworthy, SAD!
It's mind boggling to me the for at least the last 10yrs BMW has had overheating problems and apparently are grossly incompetent to resolve the issue. Mini coopers and Beemers are just an eternal money pit......glad I traded my X3 for a Prius !😀
💀
What is part number brotha? And do you havethis specific type engine as follows: 06 X5 E53 3.0i M54B30 sport activities vehicle? Thank you.
Hello a local guy is selling a 01 325i that is overheating for $800. He say he hasn't had time to diagnose it or the money for parts. I was wondering what are the chances the head gasket is blown? It's a manual and I'd like to use it as a inexpensive track day car.
steve71 it really depends on how bad it was overheating. Worst case would be blown head gasket and warped engine block. That would be very expensive to fix and not worth buying. Best case is coolant sensors and fan
My bmw e46 get the same problem, that way the problem is solved ?
Does this fixes the gauge hi temp
What is the use of fan? Is only for AC ? and why the fan is turning off if the AC off
No this is to cool your radiator for the engine temperature. When your engine gets too hot and you're not moving fast enough the fan kicks on to cool your engine. Most of the time when you are sitting in bumper to bumper traffic your fan needs to turn on to cool your engine 😎
Don’t use wish they just kept the manual fan with a fan clutch
Hey I just fixed my overheating prob but I have a question , is it normal that now my coolant hoses are really hard once it gets to operating temp ? because I never noticed until the after the repair ...they don't buldge out or anything but they feel like there is a LOT of pressure in the cooling system ...if you guys could help me that would be great thanks the e46 is a 01 325i with 96k miles on it
yes it is normal!. Once your engine gets to the operating temperature there is going to be HOT coolant cycling around and as you know the laws of physics, heat expands so its perfectly normal for your hoses feel harder. No worries!
Han's Garage ...ok great I was alarmed at first I never noticed them like that before ...but The temp is dead center on the gauge so I assume everything is ok ..no leaks either thank you Han!!
Its not normal for them to be super hard, it can lead to your expansion tank or rad bursting. You need to bleed the cooling system properly, using the bleed screw just near the coolant cap and also turn the heater on and have the ignition in position 2:
The following courtesy of Mango www.e46mango.com/2014/10/hi-this-is-mango-from-e46fanatics.html
Raise front of car on ramps (Not necessary, but recommended)
CAUTION: ONLY DO THIS WHEN CAR IS COOL AND ENGINE IS OFF. At no point should the engine be turned on.
1) Remove expansion tank cap and bleed screw and set aside
2) Turn ignition to ON (dash lights on but do NOT start the car)
3) Set heat to MAXIMUM (90) and fan speed to low (this opens heater valve)
4) Begin to fill your expansion tank with ideally a 50/50 mix of Genuine BMW coolant and distilled water (do not use anything else--no reason to. The proper stuff is cheap) The system might take a while to swallow the water. Massage the hoses if you think it will help. Keep pouring. Water will begin to pour out of the bleed screw hole with air bubbles. The point is to keep filling and filling until the bubbles are gone. This may take a while--be patient.
5) Once you are satisfied that a continual stream of bubble-free water is emerging from the bleed hole and that your cooling system is adequately filled, go ahead and replace the bleed screw (do not overtighten). The expansion tank will be full to the top at this point so you'll need to siphon off any excess so that the appropriate tank level can be achieved.
Carlton Banks u know I figured as much I drove it today an I my car almost over heated so I shut it off an then I opened up the expansion tank an bled the system for a second time lol idk what happened but now the hoses are normal much softer an a LOT of air came out of the bleed screw an then some coolant but all good now
i found having the heater dial on the middle of the dash turned to 3 red dots made the air bleed quicker... IDK why but it worked for me.
Can you give me the part number ecs is giving me the wrong part. My is doing the same thing.
Yeah, the system is still under pressure when you pull the sensor, I learned the same way you did. I think you have to release the pressure by the filler cap or something.
Memeancholy best way to reduce the pressure is to simply wait til the coolant is cold, as even opening the filler cap the coolant could still explode out... it was a daft thing to do especially since he knew the engine was still hot
That’s the lowest part of the cooling system, of course water will gush out cool or not...especially when hot!
How many times did you say be careful?
Stupid to work on coolant system when engine is hot
duh....
HAN'S GARAGE you’re comment makes you look bad..you clearly pulled that sensor out on a system that wasn’t fully cooled (still highly pressurized)
Amazon and Ebay will mess up all cars for sure?
I learned from eBay as long as you type in OEM parts for your vehicle it will work
I busted out laughing ngl
this is so funny when it explodes🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣
Glad to show ppl what not to do 🤣
link to part
It's ridiculous on how much money BMW wants for parts on these old E46 cars.
Yeah, damn. I just looked it up for my 325i and the OEM part is $47.31 at ecstuning. The non BMW part is $13.49... :(
@@renragged besides that sensor there are a lot of other parts that are way overpriced for this old car. I've had mine for over 10 years and it's a love hate thing lol.
Its overheat so pls I need help
Why u using green coolant
Because I like green?
We wish a BMW overheating was just a sensor
Your coolant is the wrong color.
i've used this specific coolant for years and had no problems with it.
Tool0GT92 it makes no difference, overall it just means Bmw don't get the extra funds from overly priced coolant
Mal P
The coolant is made for systems with a lot of plastic components like BMWs. I usually run OEM fluids, for the couple extra dollars I'd rather be safe.
Tool0GT92 plastic has been used in coolant components for many years, also coolant isn't corrosive towards plastic in anyway at all.. the costs for "special coolant" is for commercial reasons only IE to make more money... you can buy company own brands away from the vehicle specific brand & still have the same effects. the main reason behind specific coolant is only for regional conditions IE -75 & so on, the temperature is what effects the coolant usage. they all have anti-rust agents, most if not all come in contact with plastic again coolant doesn't effect nor eat away at any plastics nor rubbers..
so overall no you don't need to stick with BMW specific brands
Tool0GT92 Aw adding more to the point most manufacturer's use plastic components throughout the car, not out if necessity but for cost & ease of manufacturing.
Bmw use both metal & plastic depending on how the components fair up.. sometimes they'll upgrade plastic parts back to metal for reliabalilty ie water pump impeller.. some begun as plastic only to be replaced by metal ones later on
So can you do a video about BMW tailslights not going off. I replaced the fuse and my brake lights still won’t turn off
Jose Maldonado thats normal it comes like that from the factory. Check if any wires aren’t making the full circuit
BMW's require DISTILLED water (50/50 mix coolant : distilled water)
Green cooland? That s not the right one. Blue is the right one
You're not the right one.
Blue coolant not green....
This car still running strong with green over 230,000 miles :)
@@HansGarage So you recommend for people to go against the manufacturers requirement? or you just want to be right about something antidotal?
@@ignacioromero5014 I'm just using green coolant in my car that I spent 1800 dollars for. I'm not saying anything just showing what I did. Thanks for watching :)
wrong all the way wrong didnt properly fill and bleed plus wrong coolant
I tested my electric fan motor and is bad . They want $ 960 at the dealership and about $ 600 on the Internet !!
Louie Saltos even cheaper on fcpeuro.com
7
I got one for $275.
cthu samething happened to me cthu
2002 330i my gauge goes hot and then back to normal after i replace the expansion tank and no antifreeze in there so i have to add antifreeze otherwise the expansion tank will smoke. Any suggestions. Thanks
Han got no time to waste 😂🦝