Hey, Thanks! These G and Z cars are an amazing value. Unfortunately they have their problems like any other car, But hopefully my videos can help others enjoy their rides.
sorry to be offtopic but does someone know of a trick to log back into an instagram account?? I was stupid forgot my login password. I appreciate any assistance you can offer me.
@Jadiel Spencer I really appreciate your reply. I found the site thru google and im in the hacking process atm. Takes a while so I will reply here later when my account password hopefully is recovered.
could bad oxy sensor cause this also? My 350z was running perfectly - then sat during the lockdown and now this low Idle has happened. It seems the car is burning rich.
I added the nwp 75mm throttle body and I’m having the same issue and the code I got was pertaining to the throttle/pedal switch sensor in the gas peddle
You have a bent lifter my 05 Infiniti G35 sedan have the same problem somebody put the wrong but sky City or oil in it or they left the engine running low on oil
Chances are you got water on the maf element. let it dry and if you still have issues use compressed air to blow out any water that could have made its way into your connectors.
@@salvageperformance5170 No that was my problem, there was no check engine light pretty weird. But it turn out to be a faulty maf sensor, as soon as I replace it the when back smoother than ever. And my rpm's are around 650.
@@SmokedbyTopgun just clean the throttle body. I never had backfires. sounds like you have a different problem. Check your Maf, and also make sure that the coil packs are connected in the correct order. Easy and common mistake others have made is switching the connectors 3 and 5, or 4 and 6 on the coil packs.
@@salvageperformance5170 yes I just fixed the codes I had it was p0011 and I changed the cam sensor bank 1 and I’ve cleaned my throttle body and maf sensor I’ve taken the code out now and throttle body reset but it still stalls when slowing down or when reving the rpms drop very low and sometimes drops or bounces back up
I would first recommend pulling the coil and plug out and check if you are getting spark, and while they are out it wouldn't hurt to do a compression and or leak-down test on the cylinders. If those all check out good, hopefully it was just a bed connection and when you put everything back together it runs great, lol.
Hey Danny, I never had an issue with it coming back after doing this cleaning. In most cases a low / stalling idle outside of the throttle body's control (IACV) happens because of the wrong Air Fuel Ratio. First, Did you clean both your throttle body, MAF sensor and do the Idle Relearn? If so, do you have any check engine lights??? If you have driven the car long enough for the ecu to go into "closed loop" ( about a 70mile drive ) and do not have a CEL on, then unplug the battery for a while ( about 15 minutes ) so that your ECU can reset its Fuel Maps incase it is still operating on its "corrected fuel trims". If you have done all of these things and never had your CEL come on then you are likely dealing with a Vacuum leak. I use a smoker to pump smoke into the intake system to find leaks, but there are many different ways of finding a leak. Check out this youtubers video If you feel that you may have a vacuum leak and need an idea of how to find it. ua-cam.com/video/9CPqbaSgcok/v-deo.html
@@salvageperformance5170 you have no idea how much u helped me out and I am grateful u took the time to show us this video. It got rid of my low idle and shutting off issue. Thank u!
@@dannymolina3363 That's great! I am happy that I could help. 2020 has been a crazy year for me, but stay tuned in and early to mid 2021 I plan on releasing a lot of DIY repairs on the G35 coupe and sedan. Even some 240sx stuff.
I ran a can of seafoam through the vacuum on the lower plenum. It cleaned out a lot of carbon build up. When I installed a 5/16th Blox Plenum spacer, I cleaned the hell out of the inside of the plenum, upper and lower intake manifolds with brake cleaner. I noticed that my upper intake manifold the part that bolts onto the plenum is missing the two outside studs! This had my stumped for awhile. I was worried they somehow broke off and fell into the intake. I searched forever and didn't see anything on top of the valves. So I guess mine never had those studs. The gasket I had, had grooves for those studs. I just used a shit load of RTV to be on the safe side. Then I made sure to use extra RTV on both sides of the plenum spacer. I cleaned the throttle body and maf before I reinstalled the CAI system. I started getting lean codes on the bank 1 side. Sometimes I could drive a few hundred miles and the ses light would come on indicating it was running lean. I'd reset the computer doing the manual peddle dance. It'd stay off for a few wks, then bam a lean code. Sometimes my idle would go so low that it'd try to stall. I've done the idle relearn and throttle body relearn. I found that my intake tube was loose around the coupling, so I tightened it and even used some more RTV. I probably went crazy with the RTV. I also have an oil catch can, I'm thinking this may be my real issue. My reasoning is on the bank 1 side at the rear of the valve cover is a vacuum hose that normally goes to the intake hose. This allows fresh air to come into the crankcase. I blocked off the inlet to the intake tube completely. I then rerouted a 3/8th inch hose from driver side valve cover behind the engine around to the other side where I have my Oil catch can. On the pass side where the pcv valve is I took the hose that run from pcv to lower plenum vacuum. Used that hose and attached it to the OCC. Here's where I got lazy this hose was slightly too small in diameter for the OCC inlet. I kind of spliced it on both sides to stretch it. I then used a hose clamp and then used RTV to creat a better seal. I then used another 3/8th hose going from the outlet of the OCC to the lower plenum. Which essentially is a closed system. A lot of guys vent to atmosphere, but my thinking is that I need to have some sort of "fresh" air into the crankcase. It's a baffled can and does an excellent job at condensing all of the hot blow by vapors. For like $25 on ebay it is actually a great deal and a great design. I highly recommend this for every G owner. Just make sure that you have it air tight. I believe I had a small vacuum leak, I kept hearing this hissing sound. I believe I fixed it though and have yet to get another lean code. My mpg have averaged out back to normal. I only run 93 octane in it, I keep it clean. I also installed new valve covers that I painted aluminum, because I went ahead and painted the plenum this Ford Blue 🔵 that really pops. I got the valve covers with gaskets and hardware for $55 on ebay. They work great, got 6 Platinum spark plugs for $24. They are normally $6-$8 a pop, then a set of 6 new coil packs for less than $40. Good thing too because when I went to remove 2 of them, they completely fell apart on me. A lot of ppl knock on ebay,but if you know what you're looking for, ebay can be and is a huge asset for any DIYer. After I installed these mods and tuned it up, it was a night and day difference. Before I could hardly touch the plenum without burning myself. Now I can drive 4 hrs straight and can lean on it with all my weight and it's slightly warm to the touch. Heat soak is now a non existent thing of the past with this car now. This car loves cooler temps, I went ahead and installed a low temp thermostat to open it up 20 degrees cooler than normal. My intake is installed right in the driver's side wheel well, you can barely see it poking behind the whole in my bumper. It doesn't get wet at all when it rains, so it's liking the cool air. It just took me awhile to pinpoint the lean issues I was having. It was getting too much oxygen in the A/F mix. I knew it'd also take a couple of hundred of miles for the ecu to relearn the new parameters. Overall the car was fairly well taken care of. But I could tell it was neglected for awhile, fortunately not for too long. The engine bay was pretty dirty when I bought it. The K&N filter was obsolete. Never seen anything like it, all of the cotton pleat material was nearly gone! The screen was just caked in dust and grime. That had me worried because the engine surely should have sucked it up. When I had the intake apart and looked down on top of the valves it was surprisingly clean. Even when I had the valve covers off, there was no excessive oil buildup. The rockers looked to be in great condition, cams looked great. There was no scoring, nothing was plugged up. Since I have the X model, I went ahead and changed the atf, transfer case, as well as the front and rear diff fluids. Everytime I do an oil change I will just drain all of the atf that will come out from the drain plug. It equates to slightly over 2 qts. So I'm slowly introducing new atf every 3k-5k, just whenever I feel like doing an oil change. Just had the starter go out on me. To my surprise it was covered in fluid and grime. I had completely overlooked this, it appears to be atf. It's either a seal from the transfer case, or where the cv Axles go into the tranny. At closer inspection it appears to be coming from the rack and pinion. So I have power steering fluid everywhere. Yet the reservoir never looks low. I don't get any whining noise whenever I turn the steering wheel, so it beat me. The valve covers no longer leak, but I'm thinking about taking the bank 1 side back off so I can better inspect the plugs on that side. Because it was running lean, I believe specifically cylinder 1 &5. It may of fouled a plug, nothing too bad to cause any serious drop in performance. Usually when it runs lean it'll cause the injectors to induce more fuel to compensate for the assumption of there being too much oxygen in the mix. So the plug can become saturated which will ultimately cause poor performance. Plus my OCD is bad and I think I do see a small leak. There's a trace of oil on my header. It more than likely is just oil that flung off the dip stick. Talk about a pain in the ass design. But that is a topic for another day. I know I sort of went way off of subject here. But you're correct on making sure everything is clean. I understand not everyone has the know how, time, nor probably cares enough to do things thoroughly enough. To take apart the plenum and clean the intake manifold. But I stand behind running a can of seafoam through the plenum vacuum. Just make sure to have another person help you by giving it some throttle so it doesn't stall while inducing the liquid into the vacuum. Let it soak for atleast 15 min. Tighten the vacuum hose and crank it. Don't be alarmed by the huge amount of smoke that will be coming out of the exhaust! That's all of the carbon buildup it has acquired over the yrs. I've done this with every car I've ever bought over the last 20 yrs. I swear by it, it does work and it's amazing at what it does. You can even put some in the gas tank to clean the injectors and throw some in the crankcase to help free up some sludge within the crankcase. Whenever I do this I always get 2 cans, Walmart even makes a version that's 2 bucks cheaper a can. I get that stuff use a little over half a can for the gas tank. Pour the remainder in the crankcase and drive it for another 100 miles. Then I'll pour a whole can in the vacuum. Depending how dirty the engine is, it will smoke for anywhere from 5 min to 20 min! I usually always go to a big empty parking lot away from ppl. Sometimes the smoke coming out is so thick that if you're driving it can hinder traffic. I did this one time and it'd belt out smoke so thick everytime I changed gears that I couldn't see the cars behind me at all! So just keep it parked and rev it until the smoke deminishes. Then I'll give it an oil change and you're usually good to go. It always helps with a rough idle, it'll accelerate better, run smoother and overall just perform better. Even after all I've done to my car it still suffers from the notorious oil consumption issues. Really a lot of engines are prone to do this, especially higher mileage engines such as mine. It has 209k but drives better than cars I've had that only had 120k miles. This has me a little worried only because I'm not sure if the previous owners were as meticulous with checking the oil as much as I am. Im almost certain they weren't, so there's no telling how long and for how many periods it was driven low on oil? It's already a pain in the ass to check the dn oil level. So I don't see them doing it once or twice a week like I do. When I first bought it I was having to top it off about a qt of oil every 500 miles like wtf. After I've cleaned everything, given it a much needed tune up(some of those plugs were beyond gone), and added the OCC. Im now only having to put maybe half a qt of oil every 1k miles. It really depends how hard I've been running it. If I'm just cruising and not being aggressive on the throttle, then I have to top off even less than that. Im estimating that I'm having to empty out maybe 1oz possibly slightly more than that once a month from the OCC. So it's definitely doing its job, I can attest to that. That's fluids that aren't diluting the a/F ratio and being burnt back into the engine. Which over all keeps things running more efficiently. Basically make it a good habit at always checking the oil levels with this engine. I also recommend immediately doing a tune up if you haven't. Make sure to clean everything like I did as well. The plenum spacer is also a great investment and you don't have to have a CAI, but it won't hurt. This car amazes me everyday that it's a 16yr old car with 209k!
Hey, Thanks! I am glad I was able to help you, and thank you for subscribing! I grew up working on Hondas. You will see some B , D , and K series stuff on here in the future so please stay tuned onto this channel.
Like the beginning lol
My bro has a G35 with that exact same issue so now I'm going to point him in the right direction. Thank you
Hey, Thanks!
These G and Z cars are an amazing value. Unfortunately they have their problems like any other car, But hopefully my videos can help others enjoy their rides.
sorry to be offtopic but does someone know of a trick to log back into an instagram account??
I was stupid forgot my login password. I appreciate any assistance you can offer me.
@Cain Rory Instablaster ;)
@Jadiel Spencer I really appreciate your reply. I found the site thru google and im in the hacking process atm.
Takes a while so I will reply here later when my account password hopefully is recovered.
@Jadiel Spencer it worked and I actually got access to my account again. I am so happy:D
Thank you so much you saved my ass :D
My g37x is doin the same thing, glad I found this video edit: just bought it to😕
Update: my issue was bad gas
@@Th3fac31 what gas did you use
@@carlpatrick9102 it was whatever caravan put in the car prior it took forever to get out to, put some heet and fuel injector in, fixed the issue
The music is a vibe
Never had to do a tb relearn and I have taken mine off numerous times to clean it opening up the buterflies manually just lucky I guess
could bad oxy sensor cause this also? My 350z was running perfectly - then sat during the lockdown and now this low Idle has happened. It seems the car is burning rich.
Love you bro. My car has been down for months
I added the nwp 75mm throttle body and I’m having the same issue and the code I got was pertaining to the throttle/pedal switch sensor in the gas peddle
did u figure it out??
Having same issue
You have a bent lifter my 05 Infiniti G35 sedan have the same problem somebody put the wrong but sky City or oil in it or they left the engine running low on oil
WHAT MEXICAN MUSIC IS THIS THAT SHIT BUMPS HARD ASF
Hell yeah bro good shit man
My Z today out of nowhere sterted doing this today will try to clean everything up and do reset ect.
Damn my 350z doing this, after the engine warms up it starts up but at a pretty low rpm
My 2008 Z started doing this after I drove through some semi deep puddles while it was storming sadly hopefully I can fix it
Chances are you got water on the maf element.
let it dry and if you still have issues use compressed air to blow out any water that could have made its way into your connectors.
how do you know if the trotle body itself is not functioning nomore
How do i fix my pedal revs on park but not on gear
My car does the same thing but stays on at the second crank.
I wonder if is the same problem.
Thanks for sharing. 👍
Possibly. It definitely wouldn't hurt to try.
Also have you been driving your car and is there a CEL on?
@@salvageperformance5170 No that was my problem, there was no check engine light pretty weird.
But it turn out to be a faulty maf sensor, as soon as I replace it the when back smoother than ever.
And my rpm's are around 650.
My car turns off completely when I come to a complete stop or if I’m just parked and it’s still on
Did you ever figure out the issue?
What’s was ever the problem? I have the same thing happening to my 350z
I’m haveing the same problem but my car backfired while being started
@@los5105 Have you read the CEL for any codes?
My problem was solved by the end of the video. It was just a dirty throttle body.
What did you do to fix this los? Mine also backfires when I try to start it
@@SmokedbyTopgun just clean the throttle body. I never had backfires. sounds like you have a different problem.
Check your Maf, and also make sure that the coil packs are connected in the correct order. Easy and common mistake others have made is switching the connectors 3 and 5, or 4 and 6 on the coil packs.
@@salvageperformance5170 yes I just fixed the codes I had it was p0011 and I changed the cam sensor bank 1 and I’ve cleaned my throttle body and maf sensor I’ve taken the code out now and throttle body reset but it still stalls when slowing down or when reving the rpms drop very low and sometimes drops or bounces back up
Have the same issue but with a p0305 but I already did plug and coil any ideas
I would first recommend pulling the coil and plug out and check if you are getting spark, and while they are out it wouldn't hurt to do a compression and or leak-down test on the cylinders. If those all check out good, hopefully it was just a bed connection and when you put everything back together it runs great, lol.
By any chance did the issue ever come back? My 350z keeps having the idle low and shutting off after it warms up.
Hey Danny, I never had an issue with it coming back after doing this cleaning.
In most cases a low / stalling idle outside of the throttle body's control (IACV) happens because of the wrong Air Fuel Ratio.
First, Did you clean both your throttle body, MAF sensor and do the Idle Relearn?
If so, do you have any check engine lights???
If you have driven the car long enough for the ecu to go into "closed loop" ( about a 70mile drive ) and do not have a CEL on, then unplug the battery for a while ( about 15 minutes ) so that your ECU can reset its Fuel Maps incase it is still operating on its "corrected fuel trims".
If you have done all of these things and never had your CEL come on then you are likely dealing with a Vacuum leak.
I use a smoker to pump smoke into the intake system to find leaks, but there are many different ways of finding a leak.
Check out this youtubers video If you feel that you may have a vacuum leak and need an idea of how to find it.
ua-cam.com/video/9CPqbaSgcok/v-deo.html
@@salvageperformance5170 you have no idea how much u helped me out and I am grateful u took the time to show us this video. It got rid of my low idle and shutting off issue. Thank u!
@@dannymolina3363 That's great! I am happy that I could help.
2020 has been a crazy year for me, but stay tuned in and early to mid 2021 I plan on releasing a lot of DIY repairs on the G35 coupe and sedan. Even some 240sx stuff.
I ran a can of seafoam through the vacuum on the lower plenum. It cleaned out a lot of carbon build up. When I installed a 5/16th Blox Plenum spacer, I cleaned the hell out of the inside of the plenum, upper and lower intake manifolds with brake cleaner. I noticed that my upper intake manifold the part that bolts onto the plenum is missing the two outside studs! This had my stumped for awhile. I was worried they somehow broke off and fell into the intake. I searched forever and didn't see anything on top of the valves. So I guess mine never had those studs. The gasket I had, had grooves for those studs. I just used a shit load of RTV to be on the safe side. Then I made sure to use extra RTV on both sides of the plenum spacer. I cleaned the throttle body and maf before I reinstalled the CAI system. I started getting lean codes on the bank 1 side. Sometimes I could drive a few hundred miles and the ses light would come on indicating it was running lean. I'd reset the computer doing the manual peddle dance. It'd stay off for a few wks, then bam a lean code. Sometimes my idle would go so low that it'd try to stall. I've done the idle relearn and throttle body relearn. I found that my intake tube was loose around the coupling, so I tightened it and even used some more RTV. I probably went crazy with the RTV. I also have an oil catch can, I'm thinking this may be my real issue. My reasoning is on the bank 1 side at the rear of the valve cover is a vacuum hose that normally goes to the intake hose. This allows fresh air to come into the crankcase. I blocked off the inlet to the intake tube completely. I then rerouted a 3/8th inch hose from driver side valve cover behind the engine around to the other side where I have my Oil catch can. On the pass side where the pcv valve is I took the hose that run from pcv to lower plenum vacuum. Used that hose and attached it to the OCC. Here's where I got lazy this hose was slightly too small in diameter for the OCC inlet. I kind of spliced it on both sides to stretch it. I then used a hose clamp and then used RTV to creat a better seal. I then used another 3/8th hose going from the outlet of the OCC to the lower plenum. Which essentially is a closed system. A lot of guys vent to atmosphere, but my thinking is that I need to have some sort of "fresh" air into the crankcase. It's a baffled can and does an excellent job at condensing all of the hot blow by vapors. For like $25 on ebay it is actually a great deal and a great design. I highly recommend this for every G owner. Just make sure that you have it air tight. I believe I had a small vacuum leak, I kept hearing this hissing sound. I believe I fixed it though and have yet to get another lean code. My mpg have averaged out back to normal. I only run 93 octane in it, I keep it clean. I also installed new valve covers that I painted aluminum, because I went ahead and painted the plenum this Ford Blue 🔵 that really pops. I got the valve covers with gaskets and hardware for $55 on ebay. They work great, got 6 Platinum spark plugs for $24. They are normally $6-$8 a pop, then a set of 6 new coil packs for less than $40. Good thing too because when I went to remove 2 of them, they completely fell apart on me. A lot of ppl knock on ebay,but if you know what you're looking for, ebay can be and is a huge asset for any DIYer. After I installed these mods and tuned it up, it was a night and day difference. Before I could hardly touch the plenum without burning myself. Now I can drive 4 hrs straight and can lean on it with all my weight and it's slightly warm to the touch. Heat soak is now a non existent thing of the past with this car now. This car loves cooler temps, I went ahead and installed a low temp thermostat to open it up 20 degrees cooler than normal. My intake is installed right in the driver's side wheel well, you can barely see it poking behind the whole in my bumper. It doesn't get wet at all when it rains, so it's liking the cool air. It just took me awhile to pinpoint the lean issues I was having. It was getting too much oxygen in the A/F mix. I knew it'd also take a couple of hundred of miles for the ecu to relearn the new parameters. Overall the car was fairly well taken care of. But I could tell it was neglected for awhile, fortunately not for too long. The engine bay was pretty dirty when I bought it. The K&N filter was obsolete. Never seen anything like it, all of the cotton pleat material was nearly gone! The screen was just caked in dust and grime. That had me worried because the engine surely should have sucked it up. When I had the intake apart and looked down on top of the valves it was surprisingly clean. Even when I had the valve covers off, there was no excessive oil buildup. The rockers looked to be in great condition, cams looked great. There was no scoring, nothing was plugged up. Since I have the X model, I went ahead and changed the atf, transfer case, as well as the front and rear diff fluids. Everytime I do an oil change I will just drain all of the atf that will come out from the drain plug. It equates to slightly over 2 qts. So I'm slowly introducing new atf every 3k-5k, just whenever I feel like doing an oil change.
Just had the starter go out on me. To my surprise it was covered in fluid and grime. I had completely overlooked this, it appears to be atf. It's either a seal from the transfer case, or where the cv Axles go into the tranny. At closer inspection it appears to be coming from the rack and pinion. So I have power steering fluid everywhere. Yet the reservoir never looks low. I don't get any whining noise whenever I turn the steering wheel, so it beat me. The valve covers no longer leak, but I'm thinking about taking the bank 1 side back off so I can better inspect the plugs on that side. Because it was running lean, I believe specifically cylinder 1 &5. It may of fouled a plug, nothing too bad to cause any serious drop in performance. Usually when it runs lean it'll cause the injectors to induce more fuel to compensate for the assumption of there being too much oxygen in the mix. So the plug can become saturated which will ultimately cause poor performance. Plus my OCD is bad and I think I do see a small leak. There's a trace of oil on my header. It more than likely is just oil that flung off the dip stick. Talk about a pain in the ass design. But that is a topic for another day.
I know I sort of went way off of subject here. But you're correct on making sure everything is clean. I understand not everyone has the know how, time, nor probably cares enough to do things thoroughly enough. To take apart the plenum and clean the intake manifold. But I stand behind running a can of seafoam through the plenum vacuum. Just make sure to have another person help you by giving it some throttle so it doesn't stall while inducing the liquid into the vacuum. Let it soak for atleast 15 min. Tighten the vacuum hose and crank it. Don't be alarmed by the huge amount of smoke that will be coming out of the exhaust! That's all of the carbon buildup it has acquired over the yrs. I've done this with every car I've ever bought over the last 20 yrs. I swear by it, it does work and it's amazing at what it does. You can even put some in the gas tank to clean the injectors and throw some in the crankcase to help free up some sludge within the crankcase. Whenever I do this I always get 2 cans, Walmart even makes a version that's 2 bucks cheaper a can. I get that stuff use a little over half a can for the gas tank. Pour the remainder in the crankcase and drive it for another 100 miles. Then I'll pour a whole can in the vacuum. Depending how dirty the engine is, it will smoke for anywhere from 5 min to 20 min! I usually always go to a big empty parking lot away from ppl. Sometimes the smoke coming out is so thick that if you're driving it can hinder traffic. I did this one time and it'd belt out smoke so thick everytime I changed gears that I couldn't see the cars behind me at all! So just keep it parked and rev it until the smoke deminishes. Then I'll give it an oil change and you're usually good to go. It always helps with a rough idle, it'll accelerate better, run smoother and overall just perform better.
Even after all I've done to my car it still suffers from the notorious oil consumption issues. Really a lot of engines are prone to do this, especially higher mileage engines such as mine. It has 209k but drives better than cars I've had that only had 120k miles. This has me a little worried only because I'm not sure if the previous owners were as meticulous with checking the oil as much as I am. Im almost certain they weren't, so there's no telling how long and for how many periods it was driven low on oil? It's already a pain in the ass to check the dn oil level. So I don't see them doing it once or twice a week like I do. When I first bought it I was having to top it off about a qt of oil every 500 miles like wtf. After I've cleaned everything, given it a much needed tune up(some of those plugs were beyond gone), and added the OCC. Im now only having to put maybe half a qt of oil every 1k miles. It really depends how hard I've been running it. If I'm just cruising and not being aggressive on the throttle, then I have to top off even less than that. Im estimating that I'm having to empty out maybe 1oz possibly slightly more than that once a month from the OCC. So it's definitely doing its job, I can attest to that. That's fluids that aren't diluting the a/F ratio and being burnt back into the engine. Which over all keeps things running more efficiently. Basically make it a good habit at always checking the oil levels with this engine. I also recommend immediately doing a tune up if you haven't. Make sure to clean everything like I did as well. The plenum spacer is also a great investment and you don't have to have a CAI, but it won't hurt. This car amazes me everyday that it's a 16yr old car with 209k!
@@nowimhigh thaank for this now I gotta get high
VQ35DE Nissan engines look big, I'm running Honda engine. And know the procedure from your video, tks man, just subscribe.
Hey, Thanks!
I am glad I was able to help you, and thank you for subscribing! I grew up working on Hondas. You will see some B , D , and K series stuff on here in the future so please stay tuned onto this channel.
@@salvageperformance5170 tks
My car don't go more than 10mph what's the problen
did you get it fixed
it's in limp mode. you'll need a code reader to see if it'll show any codes that could be pending and not showing
Min would go up
And down 😬
BROOO IM HAVING THE EXACT SAME PROBLEM
Defiantly try this bro! If this does not work then search between the throttle body and MAF for any leaks.
I just change my engine and doing the same buttt makes it hard to brake
Did this car started stalling soon as I start it before I did it car would start and sit for a min then stall
Make sure that you have done the Idle relearn and check for any vacuum leaks. Even a small cut in the intake flex tube could cause your car to stall.
Add oil that's way to loud
Tick tick
u should nozzle check