I just recently installed a MM K-Member in my 1999 Cobra. I've only driven it about 50 miles but I've been very happy. I'm fixing my setup today and have an autocross coming up in two weeks. I can't wait to see the difference. As of this install, my Cobra doesn't have one stock suspension piece left. I love this 2.3 Mustang project. It should be a monster on course.
MM makes great parts. I know a lot of people who use MM K-members, and they are very happy with how they perform. You're going to love getting everything you can out of your new mods at the autocross! It's always great to hear that people are enjoying my 2.3L build. I'm really looking forward to seeing what it can do.
Great video! That is why I do not want to put a tubular on my 5.0 89. I think I will remove it and do some reinforcement when I build the engine - and make sure it is square on the car
Thanks! I've been told a hundred times over the years that I need an aftermarket K-member. And I've met people who won't autocross their Mustangs because they don't have one. For me, the choice has always come down to whether or not a K-member is right for my build or necessary to be competitive. You can absolutely be competitive with an OEM K-member. I think it's a great idea for people to check their OEM K-members to see if they are square. I was pleasantly surprised to find out the one on my 2.3L was square.
@@warhorseracing Some people want the most minute detail perfect before they will even do anything. Those are the ones who post their basket case up for sale. I got the idea of reworking my stock k-member from a Mopar build called "The Green Brick"
@@brokentoolgarage I hope more people realize that the Mustang they have is the best car to take to their first autocross. I've never felt the need to modify the OEM K-member, but my cars don't have a lot of power. I'll check out that build.
@Warhorse Racing Posting a video in an hour you might be interested in. its on swapping any Fox body,sn95 or newedge Mustang to electric power steering from a Volvo Have it on my car 01 v6 t5 , and love the way it feels. just a little more resistance than stock. Also you did a great job on this videoKeep up the great work. Some companies say you don't have to square the K member when installing they're after market unit but that always seemed a little fishy to me. Your video helped to make it clear you need to
I just watched your video. That's a cool mod! The wiring covers in the interior are also a good idea. I'm debating doing something similar if I end up not using a carpet in Apocalypso. It's always great to see more Mustang content! Keep making videos! I'm glad you liked this video. The UPR K-member went in pretty close to being square, but I definitely needed to adjust it, and double-check things, as I was installing it. I'm certainly not an expert when it comes to installing K-members, but it seems unlikely that one would go in perfectly square on the first try.
I'm looking forward to seeing how everything else went for you. I 302 swapped my 2002 V6 Mustang using a QA1 tubular k-member and the steering rack and control arm fitment was a little off.
It seems like fitment issues with the A-arms and steering rack are common with aftermarket K-members. I had an interesting experience installing them on my car.
Good update. Would have had a hard time not upgrading the brake lines and suspension components in the assembly operation. You have great self control in the upgrade sequencing. A real life budget that includes a season of competition likely is a good motivator, but ongoing upgrades certainly require a unique balance of time and money. Thanks for sharing.
Thank you! I can't remember the last time I put stock parts back onto one of my cars. This part of the project gave me a good opportunity to help people who are interested in a UPR K-member, but plan on keeping their OEM suspension parts. I'm also taking my time finalizing the suspension mods because I'll be using parts I'm not as familiar with, and supply chain issues are still making some parts hard to get. It's fun having a long-term project, but it is a challenge keeping up momentum during the autocross season.
Thanks! This car is still in the process of being built, so I haven't driven it much with the UPR K-member installed. I also haven't autocrossed the car. At this point, I don't have enough experience with the UPR K-member to give a good or bad review of its performance. I will review it in the future. Different brands of K-members have different benefits. The benefit I wanted for this build was weight reduction. You might find the benefits of a different K-member more helpful. How heavy is your car? Do you plan to autocross the car? Are you using stock-style springs, or switching to coil-overs? Knowing the answers to those questions will help me give you a more detailed reply.
@@warhorseracing I just want to lose weight on my 89 mustang coupe. I’m looking at the upr k member you installed & the bmr k member also, I’m not going to coil overs .
@@jaydollar140 I purchased a BMR Premium K-member for my SN95 a while back, but I haven't installed it, yet. I haven't seen many autocross-tested reviews of the BMR K-member, either. When I spoke to BMR a couple of years ago, they recommended the Premium version of their K-member for autocross (not the Standard version). I don't know if that recommendation has since changed. From an autocross perspective, both K-members are unproven. I have no experience with the Standard BMR K-member. Based on my research, it seems like the BMR K-members have fewer fitment issues than the UPR K-members. You also have the option of saving more weight by switching to BMR A-arms with spring perches (I'm a fan of the BMR A-arms, but not the poly bushings they come with). If you watch part 2 of this video, you'll see the problems I had installing the OEM A-arms, lowering springs, and OEM steering rack with the UPR K-member. Not everyone will have those issues, but it is possible. I hope that helps.
I’ve been mulling over the idea of a tubular k member and I was wondering how tight the lower main bar hugs the oil pan, right where the steering rack goes. I’d prefer to build my own and adjust the control arms/steering rack so I can have maximum ground clearance. If there’s any chance an aftermarket can meet my needs, that would be ideal. Did it save you even 2” of ground clearance?
There are positives and negatives to installing a tubular K-member. Many require coil-overs, which adds cost. Some have mixed reputations. Some improve geometry, while others don't. Weight reduction is key to this project, so an aftermarket K-member was the right choice. Oil pans vary from Mustang to Mustang, and the 2.3L has a pretty big one. I was able to get 1/4" of clearance by adjusting the motor mounts, but that might not be possible with all motor mounts. Building your own K-member would be a cool project. With so many options on the market, it's hard to say that they all will/won't improve ground clearance. I took some quick measurements on my 2.3L and here's what I found: The UPR K-member does sit below the steering rack (with non-offset bushings). The steering rack bushing flanges are the lowest parts of the K-member. Looking at the OEM K-member, I'd say there's 1" of it below the level of the UPR steering rack bushing flanges. The oil pan is lower than the UPR K-member. I hope that helps.
@@warhorseracing that actually helps a lot. I’d like to use a 4.5” dry sump pan on a 302 with factory style rubber sn95 motor mounts. Could you tell me how much clearance you have between the oil pan and the lower support bar? Is it like a 1” gap or bigger like 3”? If I can get away with a 1” gap against the dry sump pan, then I can lower my front end the full distance that I need it to go
@@Diamondsintherubble The 2.3L oil pan goes well ahead of the K-member. It angles down right behind the lower bar, so that 1/4" is pretty much what I have. Going lower without moving the engine backwards would lead to interference. But there is also less than 1" between the oil pan and the steering rack.
I think there's always some finessing involved with any aftermarket K-member. Maybe not as much as what you'll see in Part 2 of this video. I apologize for the sound being low. I'll make some more adjustments for the next video and see if they help.
I just recently installed a MM K-Member in my 1999 Cobra. I've only driven it about 50 miles but I've been very happy. I'm fixing my setup today and have an autocross coming up in two weeks. I can't wait to see the difference. As of this install, my Cobra doesn't have one stock suspension piece left. I love this 2.3 Mustang project. It should be a monster on course.
MM makes great parts. I know a lot of people who use MM K-members, and they are very happy with how they perform. You're going to love getting everything you can out of your new mods at the autocross! It's always great to hear that people are enjoying my 2.3L build. I'm really looking forward to seeing what it can do.
Great video! That is why I do not want to put a tubular on my 5.0 89. I think I will remove it and do some reinforcement when I build the engine - and make sure it is square on the car
Thanks! I've been told a hundred times over the years that I need an aftermarket K-member. And I've met people who won't autocross their Mustangs because they don't have one. For me, the choice has always come down to whether or not a K-member is right for my build or necessary to be competitive. You can absolutely be competitive with an OEM K-member. I think it's a great idea for people to check their OEM K-members to see if they are square. I was pleasantly surprised to find out the one on my 2.3L was square.
@@warhorseracing Some people want the most minute detail perfect before they will even do anything. Those are the ones who post their basket case up for sale. I got the idea of reworking my stock k-member from a Mopar build called "The Green Brick"
@@brokentoolgarage I hope more people realize that the Mustang they have is the best car to take to their first autocross. I've never felt the need to modify the OEM K-member, but my cars don't have a lot of power. I'll check out that build.
@@warhorseracing I am using my 89 as an entry level (learning) car for autoX and having great results - the biggest improvement to my car is still me.
@Warhorse Racing Posting a video in an hour you might be interested in. its on swapping any Fox body,sn95 or newedge Mustang to electric power steering from a Volvo Have it on my car 01 v6 t5 , and love the way it feels. just a little more resistance than stock. Also you did a great job on this videoKeep up the great work. Some companies say you don't have to square the K member when installing they're after market unit but that always seemed a little fishy to me. Your video helped to make it clear you need to
I just watched your video. That's a cool mod! The wiring covers in the interior are also a good idea. I'm debating doing something similar if I end up not using a carpet in Apocalypso. It's always great to see more Mustang content! Keep making videos!
I'm glad you liked this video. The UPR K-member went in pretty close to being square, but I definitely needed to adjust it, and double-check things, as I was installing it. I'm certainly not an expert when it comes to installing K-members, but it seems unlikely that one would go in perfectly square on the first try.
I'm looking forward to seeing how everything else went for you. I 302 swapped my 2002 V6 Mustang using a QA1 tubular k-member and the steering rack and control arm fitment was a little off.
It seems like fitment issues with the A-arms and steering rack are common with aftermarket K-members. I had an interesting experience installing them on my car.
Good update. Would have had a hard time not upgrading the brake lines and suspension components in the assembly operation. You have great self control in the upgrade sequencing. A real life budget that includes a season of competition likely is a good motivator, but ongoing upgrades certainly require a unique balance of time and money. Thanks for sharing.
Thank you! I can't remember the last time I put stock parts back onto one of my cars. This part of the project gave me a good opportunity to help people who are interested in a UPR K-member, but plan on keeping their OEM suspension parts. I'm also taking my time finalizing the suspension mods because I'll be using parts I'm not as familiar with, and supply chain issues are still making some parts hard to get. It's fun having a long-term project, but it is a challenge keeping up momentum during the autocross season.
Nice video bro! Would you recommend this k member or another?
Thanks! This car is still in the process of being built, so I haven't driven it much with the UPR K-member installed. I also haven't autocrossed the car. At this point, I don't have enough experience with the UPR K-member to give a good or bad review of its performance. I will review it in the future. Different brands of K-members have different benefits. The benefit I wanted for this build was weight reduction. You might find the benefits of a different K-member more helpful. How heavy is your car? Do you plan to autocross the car? Are you using stock-style springs, or switching to coil-overs? Knowing the answers to those questions will help me give you a more detailed reply.
@@warhorseracing I just want to lose weight on my 89 mustang coupe. I’m looking at the upr k member you installed & the bmr k member also, I’m not going to coil overs .
@@jaydollar140 I purchased a BMR Premium K-member for my SN95 a while back, but I haven't installed it, yet. I haven't seen many autocross-tested reviews of the BMR K-member, either. When I spoke to BMR a couple of years ago, they recommended the Premium version of their K-member for autocross (not the Standard version). I don't know if that recommendation has since changed. From an autocross perspective, both K-members are unproven. I have no experience with the Standard BMR K-member. Based on my research, it seems like the BMR K-members have fewer fitment issues than the UPR K-members. You also have the option of saving more weight by switching to BMR A-arms with spring perches (I'm a fan of the BMR A-arms, but not the poly bushings they come with). If you watch part 2 of this video, you'll see the problems I had installing the OEM A-arms, lowering springs, and OEM steering rack with the UPR K-member. Not everyone will have those issues, but it is possible. I hope that helps.
hello sir , could we sponsor your builds ? PM ❤
I’ve been mulling over the idea of a tubular k member and I was wondering how tight the lower main bar hugs the oil pan, right where the steering rack goes. I’d prefer to build my own and adjust the control arms/steering rack so I can have maximum ground clearance. If there’s any chance an aftermarket can meet my needs, that would be ideal. Did it save you even 2” of ground clearance?
There are positives and negatives to installing a tubular K-member. Many require coil-overs, which adds cost. Some have mixed reputations. Some improve geometry, while others don't. Weight reduction is key to this project, so an aftermarket K-member was the right choice. Oil pans vary from Mustang to Mustang, and the 2.3L has a pretty big one. I was able to get 1/4" of clearance by adjusting the motor mounts, but that might not be possible with all motor mounts. Building your own K-member would be a cool project. With so many options on the market, it's hard to say that they all will/won't improve ground clearance. I took some quick measurements on my 2.3L and here's what I found: The UPR K-member does sit below the steering rack (with non-offset bushings). The steering rack bushing flanges are the lowest parts of the K-member. Looking at the OEM K-member, I'd say there's 1" of it below the level of the UPR steering rack bushing flanges. The oil pan is lower than the UPR K-member. I hope that helps.
@@warhorseracing that actually helps a lot. I’d like to use a 4.5” dry sump pan on a 302 with factory style rubber sn95 motor mounts. Could you tell me how much clearance you have between the oil pan and the lower support bar? Is it like a 1” gap or bigger like 3”? If I can get away with a 1” gap against the dry sump pan, then I can lower my front end the full distance that I need it to go
@@Diamondsintherubble The 2.3L oil pan goes well ahead of the K-member. It angles down right behind the lower bar, so that 1/4" is pretty much what I have. Going lower without moving the engine backwards would lead to interference. But there is also less than 1" between the oil pan and the steering rack.
@@warhorseracing okay perfect. I’ll take note and use that going forward 👍🏻 thank you
@@Diamondsintherubble I'm glad I could help.
wow. would any other k members be as interesting? i used ear budds to listen, much better....
I think there's always some finessing involved with any aftermarket K-member. Maybe not as much as what you'll see in Part 2 of this video. I apologize for the sound being low. I'll make some more adjustments for the next video and see if they help.