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I don't know anyone who uses drop spindles on a 79-04 Mustang autocross car. That's not a mod I would consider. You might want to look into Steeda X2 ball joints.

I just replied to the conversation you started on SN95 Forums.

I gave my thoughts on the Mustang you are considering. I just want to confirm that you saw my reply.

Thank you! I did 2 more events with the RE-71RS tires this weekend. I continue to be impressed by how composed the car feels when I'm pushing it hard.

Thanks!

Thank you for being a long-time viewer! I'm glad my videos are helpful. I've tried to make this channel a trustworthy resource for people getting into autocross. You're going to love autocrossing your Cobra! A square setup is definitely better than a staggered setup. I've used 9", 9.5" & 10" wheels on my SN95s (without cutting, flaring or rolling the fenders). I've used 275 tires on all of those wheels. Before you change wheels, you should check to see which SCCA Category you want to run in (or the rules for your local club if they don't follow SCCA classing). I have a video called "Choosing the Right Autocross Rim & Tire Size" that will help (if you haven't already watched it). I used 18x9.5" +20 offset wheels with 275/35/18 tires for several seasons. I did need steering rack limiters with that setup. You can also check out www.willtheyfit.com to see how your new setup will fit compared to your existing setup. With a Cobra, the rear upper IRS subframe bracket bolt can be an issue with wider tires. Low-profile bolt options are available. If you have any more questions, please ask. I'm always happy to help.

It is possible. Lots of things factor into how the tires feel. I run against a number of people who have stayed with 17" tires on their autocross Mustangs.

I hope the review is helpful. Thanks for checking out my video.

The requirements can vary depending on the club. Generally, it is very easy to get into autocross. Please watch my "The BASICS & BENEFITS of GETTING INTO AUTOCROSS with your 79-04 Mustang" video, and my "Tips for AUTOCROSSING an SN95 CONVERTIBLE" video. They will cover the basics. Nearly every video on my channel provides tips for autocrossing your Mustang. If you ever have any questions, please ask. I'm always happy to help.

I have the next 70 lbs. of weight removal planned for Apocalypso. Some custom fabrication, creativity, and repairs are involved in getting the weight out. It's taking longer than expected due to a busy autocross season. But I'm getting everything in place to do the work and make the videos when I have more free time.

@@warhorseracing looking forward to that story. Reducing weight is just such a winning strategy.

@@PatIreland-k5i I'm excited to do the work. And I can still pull more weight out of my SN95 Mustangs within the rules.

When people told me I would probably run 5-10 psi higher with the RE-71RS compared to the RIval, I wasn't sure what to think. That seemed like a lot of air pressure. But the car feels amazing at 31 psi.

A few people I know are running 35 psi, but that felt bouncy (and it wasn't as fast as 31). I might do more experimenting when it gets colder. I have heard horror stories about trying to pinch the RE-71RS. I considered 295s (on my 10" wheels), but I decided to play it safe for this first set. I can say that the experience level of the installer and the quality of the tire machine make a difference when it comes to mounting these tires. I usually suggest that people add adjustability and get the car neutral before installing top-tier tires. I was REALLY bad when I first started autocrossing. I wouldn't have known what to do with tires this good back then. For people who start out fast with good fundamentals, stepping up to top-tier tires might be the right decision.

Thank you!

Thanks!

I probably should have switched last season. It was a tougher decision than I expected (I loved the Rivals, and they did really well at super-hot summer events). But it was definitely time to try something new. I love instructing in s550 Mustangs; they are really fun autocross cars!

Thanks! You'll like throwing your Mustang around on an autocross course. I'm in NC. Events are running into November this season. I've still got 5 events left.

Thanks for checking out my video! I'm glad it was helpful. If you ever have any questions about autocrossing your Mustang, please ask. I'm always happy to help.

Thank you! If you check out my playlists, you'll find several videos that cover autocross tips and how to get faster. Also, I always include tips for finding speed in my results videos. If you have any questions as you approach your first event, please ask. I'm always happy to help.

Thanks! I'm looking forward to seeing your Mustang again!

I apologize in advance for the long answer, but there are several things to consider when getting into autocross with an SN95 Mustang. My general advice for beginners is to start autocrossing the car without making any mods (or any additional mods). Learning to drive the car you have will make you a better driver. However, older cars often need to have their tired OEM rubber bushings replaced. The decision to replace or upgrade your bushings will impact the class you can run in. Many of these cars have subframe connectors welded in; that will also impact the class you can run in. It's worth thinking about whether you're willing to spend the money on replacement OEM rubber bushings that don't offer big gains in performance, and if you're willing to cut subframe connectors out of the car. Keep in mind, you can always run an under-prepped car in a class (you don't have to make all the authorized mods). And you will be running in Novice Class for your first season. Your first season is more about learning autocross fundamentals and determining your autocross goals. From there, you can decide how much time/money you want to invest. Street Category is relatively inexpensive. You can have a lot of fun with the basic mods allowed in FS, but you will be up against modern cars that are very capable. It's a great class to challenge yourself as a driver. I like running in CAM-T because I have the wiggle room within the rules to build the cars I want to build. And, because I have to build within a budget, I get the added challenge of trying to do more with less. I know I'll have a tough time running up against a "fully prepped" CAM-T car, but I'm okay with that. That's a long way of saying: find a good car, make it reliable, figure out which class it fits in without making additional mods, run as a novice for your first season, then decide where you want to go with the car from there. I hope that helps. If you ever have any more questions about autocrossing your Mustang, please ask. I'm always happy to help.

I did the same 😂

Thank you! There were 2 optional slaloms on this course. That's probably what made it look like a DNF.

Thanks! I've heard of the issues with BMR A-arms. I've actually used them on my 2000 GT for several seasons. The poly bushings that came with the A-arms didn't last very long, so I replaced them with custom Delrin bushings (I made a video about that). The A-arms have held up very well since then, but I do check them frequently just in case there is an issue with the metal or welds.

Thank you! That Jeep is awesome, and the driver is amazing. He's always fast. I love seeing all the different cars (and trucks) that show up in CAM-T.

There's that and a 1988 Dodge D150??

@@alhopkins185 I get to compete against some cool vehicles. The driver of that truck does a great job behind the wheel!

@@warhorseracing I'll have to see if I can search for a photo of it.

I wonder if that pickup was the one from James Speed Shop. It's a Hemi swapped D150 they autocross. From previous videos traction might be their biggest issue.

Thanks! I always try to include tips in my results videos. It's been fun using the GT again. I'm looking forward to seeing more progress on your autocross project!

Autocross is a relatively inexpensive way to learn performance driving fundamentals. Many clubs have instructors (like me) who help novices improve their skills. Many clubs also offer HPDE events. The SCCA has different programs for different levels of driving (check out their website). I personally think autocross would be a great first step for anyone looking to get into performance driving.

Thanks! I try to cover several different ways to get into autocross on my channel. I've done a few "budget autocross" videos, but this car was built to show that a V6 SN95 Mustang can be a capable autocross car. For the car and all the parts in this series (including some appearance mods) I've got about $16k in this project. Building the same car today would cost a lot more. There are still good non-coilover options for these cars. Coilovers aren't legal in Street Category, so going with adjustable shocks & struts is still a good budget autocross option. It's still possible to build a relatively inexpensive car that can be competitive in CAM-T at local events. Ford has had relationships with aftermarket companies for years, and they want to sell Ford Performance parts too. They realized early on that people want to personalize their ponies, so they built them with lots of room for mods. I've driven a few bone-stock 79-04 Mustangs at autocross events over the years. They're still a lot of fun to drive. I appreciate you checking out my videos! I've got more videos coming soon!

Because of my mods, I was put into ESP when I first started autocrossing. And I had 320 TW tires. I wasn't very competitive in ESP, but I still had fun and learned a lot. I ended up picking a few cars in a few different categories to compare my raw times to. It helped me worry less about my ESP competition and focus more on getting faster.

Thanks! If you have any questions, please ask. I'm always happy to help. You're going to have a lot of fun at your first event!

@@warhorseracing Thanks looking forward to it.

@@warhorseracing Thanks so much for your videos, I did my first autocross both Saturday and Sunday. I had a blast. This weekend I have an autocross school on Saturday and an event on Sunday.

@@JoediyLab It's always great to hear that someone enjoyed their first autocross event! Have fun at the school, and please let me know how you do at the event.

Thank you!

I took the OEM V6 line and an aftermarket Cobra rear brake line to a business that was called Alliance Hose & Tube, but is now called Force Flex (and has moved to a new location). I don't think they'd have a record of the exact design on file, because the tech finalized the line based on what I brought in/mocked up on the car. You might have a local shop in your area that can provide the same service. I went through my build book, and I believe these are the BrakeQuip fittings that were used: HFMF70 (Female 10x1.0 x2); HFB251 (Banjo 10mm x 1/2 in.); BQ303 Braided Hose (1.5 feet); BQ251-BK Braided Hose Insert Black x2. I'm pretty sure that info is correct, but all of my custom brake line receipts are in the same file, so you should double-check those part numbers. I hope that helps.

​@@warhorseracingyou are awesome! Thank you so much for taking the time to reply.

@@Dtgvlives I'm always happy to help.

There should be two holes in the frame rail that have squared-off extensions (sort of shaped like two skulls). The Steeda carriage bolts slide into the squared-off sections (with the heads inside the frame). I always use some painter's tape to hold the bolts in place. I also use painter's tape to hold the upper part of the sway bar bracket in place against the frame (just make sure it can't come loose and let the aluminum bracket fall). I support the sway bar with jack stands, which allows me to get the lower part of the bracket in place and start the nuts. IIRC, there are retainers for the OEM sway bar bolts in the frame. Those need to come out to install the Steeda bolts. I hope that info helps.

@@warhorseracing retainers like nuts? Ok the steeda extensions go in the big hole and slide into the smaller part this makes sense. I have had 4 new edges they are awesome. I always think they drive like a truck. I just got this one back up. It was on a jt blower but down a hole. I just rebuilt the engine with a chp stroker kit, Chevy sized eagle rods, dss pistons, trick flow heads, mhs stg 4 cams, on3 turbo kit. I wish I went twin turbo instead of single it’s just what I found 2nd hand but in new shape at a steep discount. It really takes up all of the real estate running the single. Anyway thanks again. I really appreciate it. I already have a cheap sr performance front and rear sway bar. This will help bring it together. I plan to do this after I do the weld in subframe connectors, panhard bar - scotidi makes a really nice one for 450, better than maximum Motorsports and J&m lower control arms in the rear. It is on tubular up front due to turbo fitment. Have you done the ats brakes yet? Im on cobra but I think those would be a huge upgrade. They make a bracket for 200 bucks to run them. Thanks again

@@Megacatares It's been a while since I've dealt with the OEM sway bar bracket hardware, so I looked at some old photos. The retainers are like a speed nut; instead of a nut, they keep the bolt positioned in the frame so that the threaded ends go through the bracket. I love my New Edge cars. As you can tell, I'm a big fan of Fox Body and SN95 Mustangs. It sounds like you're working on a fun project. I haven't felt the need to run ATS brakes on my autocross cars. The Cobra brakes and Hawk pads I use provide more than enough braking for autocross. I'm always happy to help!

Thanks! My only experience with the KYB AGX shocks and struts was when I suggested them for the Humble Mechanic Mustang build. We ended up going with 2 F and 4 R to get the car neutral (with stock sway bars). You can probably go down to 2 up front.

@@warhorseracing 2 is where I find mine works good with the KYB Gas-adjust (non adjustable) on back. Setting 1 really lets the rear end come around for all kinds of fun!

@@brokentoolgarage It's amazing what a little adjustability can do for these cars! When I help someone with their setup, I always have them try all the settings on multiple autocross runs to see how good (or how bad) the car can get at various settings.

I'm looking forward to seeing how my V6 feels with the Steeda sway bar.

With all other mods/adjustments being equal, switching to a staggered setup will add understeer. You will have more grip in the rear and less grip up front. If you can't adjust around that added understeer, you'll have to drive around it out on course. The vast majority of people I compete against run a square setup. I wouldn't run a staggered setup on my autocross cars. You might find my "Choosing the Right Autocross Rim & Tire Size" video helpful.

Thanks for the reply. I currently am out of adjustment to get the oversteer out of the car. I was hoping that a larger rear tire would get it to understeer which now I would have plenty of Damper adjustment to get it neutral. It's real close now. Of course I'd also have to go from a 9.5" wheel to an 11" or so.

@@BestUnderPressure If it's really close, I would try to solve the issue with sway bars. You can also try air pressure adjustments.

@@warhorseracingI don't disagree with that. I have the steeda front bar and my rear bar is disconnected. I have a 99 Cobra. I usually run 30 front 28 rear depending on track temp. That seems to work the best with these tires.. Car is very completive locally. I just want that little extra. You know how it is..

@@BestUnderPressure We all want that little bit of extra speed! What are your alignment settings? On my IRS cars, I keep my F & R settings pretty close. If you have a lot of negative camber up front, and not much negative camber in the rear, getting the two settings closer together might help.

In a previous comment, you mentioned that your sway bars are stock. More often than not, you will want to make sure you have the correct rear sway bar on your Mustang before changing the front sway bar. If you haven't made mods to address the "factory-installed" tendency to understeer, then you will make that tendency worse by adding a stiffer front sway bar. Installing a stiffer front sway bar is always the last mod I make to my autocross cars.

It's always really nice to hear that my videos are helping people improve their Mustangs. Thank you for your comment!

I have never used a QA1 rear sway bar, and I don't know anyone who uses one on their autocross Mustang. I looked at the description & the instructions on QA1's website and they do not mention adjustability, which I think is a feature they would advertise. There is a note that the QA1 rear sway bar doesn't work with OEM lower control arms; they also have wording on their website that reads: "Requires use of QA1 5221 lower trailing arms." I suspect those restrictions limit the popularity of the QA1 rear sway bar. Thank you for checking out my channel! If you have any other questions about autocrossing your SN95, please ask. I'm always happy to help.

It's always nice to hear that my videos are helpful! I focus on Mustangs on my channel, but I'm fortunate to get to instruct novices in all sorts of cars at my events. I want to get as many people as possible to autocross their cars!

The Terminator Cobras are really fun cars. I love throwing my IRS-swapped SN95 Mustangs around on course. It's great to hear from other people who feel the same way about these cars!

I need some more information to be able to give you the best answer. What size rotors F & R? Do you daily drive the car or is it just for autocross? How much does the car weigh?

​@@warhorseracing 13in front 12 rear cobra setup on foxbody, 3100 plus lbs almost 3400 me in it driven very hard every time, autocross duty

@@hunterkime1759 I use Cobra F & R brakes on my 1992 GT with Hawk HP Plus pads up front and HPS pads in the rear. The HP Plus pads offer great initial bite and are very aggressive. They create a LOT of dust (I need to clean out the holes in my rotors after every event), they squeal when I drive to and from events, and they wear out rotors faster than less-aggressive pads. Even with an adjustable proportioning valve, I prefer the HPS pads in the rear because anything more aggressive would lead to the rear brakes locking up. I've never used the HPS 5.0 pads, but they appear to be positioned in between the HPS and the HP Plus. They are an aggressive "street" pad, which usually means less initial bite (than an autocross/track pad). Brake pad choice is setup/driver dependent. I prefer more initial bite because I can poke the brakes and quickly transfer weight to the front end. You might prefer something different. Whichever front pads you choose, I do think it's wise to use less-aggressive pads in the rear.

Thank you! I generally don't lower my autocross Mustangs more than 1". Going lower with stock-style springs (not coil-overs) limits suspension travel and can lead to needing more mods to solve more handling issues. I don't use relocation brackets for the rear control arms on my SRA cars. The other mods I've made (weight reduction, mass centralization, adjustable shocks & struts, sway bars, etc.) have gotten my SRA cars to perform well enough to where I haven't felt the need to use extended ball joints, adjustable control arms or a PHB.

Thanks for the reply. Yes, I would agree that lowering your car past stock height causes a lot of problems. The 4-link rear suspension is actually pretty good when it sits at correct angles and height. Out of curiosity, have you looked at true triangulated 4-link suspensions? The 79-04 mustangs have more of a semi-triangulated 4-link setup in my opinion. What do you think about some of these upper control arms that connect off the frame rails? By the way, very impressive what you can do with your mustang. without running a watts, phb/ta.

@@JP-ri1wf I haven't looked at different 4-link suspensions. And, honestly, I'm not familiar with UCAs that mount off of the frame (I'll have to check those out). When I started working on these cars many years ago, the most common steps were to upgrade the rear control arms and add a stiffer rear sway bar, then upgrade to some "next level" rear suspension mod (like a PHB or Watt's link), then eventually add a TA to get rid of the UCAs. Steeda offered different solutions. I've always had to build my cars on a budget. That means I've had to figure out how to do more with less. Steeda's (now discontinued) adjustable rear sway bar was $150. I was amazed by how well it performed, especially when combined with adjustable shocks and struts. That experience changed my thinking about SRA mods. I plan to use all 4 rear control arms on my SRA 2.3L project. I've tried my best to show people that these cars can be competitive at local autocross events without coil-overs, aftermarket K-members, or a PHB/TA setup. Those mods do make a big difference, but I don't want people to think they can't autocross unless they have those parts on their cars.

One of the reasons why I make these videos is to show that there is no "one size fits all" sway bar choice for our cars. It's a balance of performance and personal preference. I've seen these cars perform well with many different sway bars. It's all about finding what works and wins.

That is really nice to hear! Thank you!

I will get one of my OEM SN95 front sway bars out of storage and let you know how much it weighs.

I weighed my OEM 2004 V6 1" front sway bar & my OEM 2000 GT 27mm front sway bar on the same scale I weighed the Steeda sway bar. OEM V6 1": 12 lbs. OEM GT 27mm: 13 lbs.

@@warhorseracing good to know that the steeda is a good pound or 2 lighter than my stock 94/95 bar I have been running!

You have to determine if you have "Hydro" or "non-Hydro" bushings. Prothane suggests using heat to separate the bushings from the shells. They warn that this is extremely dangerous & should only be done by a qualified professional. I don't use heat. On "non-Hydro" bushings, I use a 3/8" drill bit to drill a hole in the rubber near the shell (without damaging the shell), then I try to slowly "walk" the bit along the shell to separate the bushing from the metal. More often than not, I have to drill multiple holes in the bushings from both sides to get the sleeve and most of the rubber out; then I use a wire wheel to get the remaining rubber out of the shell. I always wear eye protection. I do not use a drill on Hydro bushings; I can usually just pry those out (there is fluid in Hydro bushings).

@@warhorseracing Thank you. I have the control arms off the car and will work on that this weekend.

@@bullet2096 I'm always happy to help. Let me know what you think of the new bushings.

Getting a feel for the car is key. There's a lot that goes into selecting sway bars. I have another video about stiffer sway bars for 79-04 SRA Mustangs that you might find helpful.

I just did something similar to you, but I also have the MM K Member and offset A-arms. I have an MM coilover setup on the front with 425 lbs/ft springs , H&R race springs on the back and stock Bilsteins all round. The coilover conversion alone transformed the handling and road manners. Driven on the street, it absorbs bumps a lot better too. I then added a Steeda 35mm and went auto crossing. I was blown away at the overall improvement, which is so much more predictable. Next will be to coilover the rear and purchase the MM valved Bilsteins,