2007 Chevy Suburban 1500 LTZ Replace Fuse Block to Repair Electrical Issues
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- Опубліковано 25 сер 2024
- Have a full-size Chevy truck/SUV that is having electrical issues? Add a ground wire! Wait too long and you have to replace the Fuse Block. This video shows how to replace the fuse block, but also shows the ground ribbon replacement and preventive work to fix a myriad of electrical problems on the Chevrolet, GMC, and Cadillac SUVs and Full-Size Trucks
Your fuse block simply lifted up off the base, which is super convenient. On my son's 2008 Silverado, the wiring harness connectors lift up with the fuse block. Since you can't rotate the fuse block when connected to those three stiff harnesses, you have to disconnect everything "blind," and singly. What a hassle. Thanks for the video and the tip about the ground, that's great info!
ya...what he said. the wiring harnesses do not stay in the tray on the 2008. you have to reach in there and pull them off. you can place the harnesses back into the tray them press the fuse box back on top. $307.00 at the dealer. My wipers did not work.
Is there some special tab under fuse box.? Or they just pull straight down?
That's my question
@@ant03609that's my question any luck
Thank you !!!!! I’ve been having electrical problems and the ground wire was the problem the whole time I did just like you did the the extra wire after taking’s the fuse box out🙄 but it fixed all my problems
I'm glad it helped! It amazes me that the dealerships don't seem to know about this - or they do and just want to replace one shorted out part after another to make a buck. I've been amazed at how many people I've met and chatted with over the last 6 years who've had ground wire problems on their Chevys. Now, if I could just monetize the video. LOL
My 2011 Silverado LTZ radio will turn off on its own and my stabiltrak will turn off as well. I hope adding an extra ground cable will work I’ll do it tomorrow after work I’ll keep you posted. Thanks for this info!!
Great video.. except for the"filmora" across the screen.. you did a great job!!
They're bad for corrosion in the fuse boxes as well. Mine has been giving me some electrical fits. I'll definitely be adding that extra ground wire while I change the fuse box, thanks.
Hi, could please send the link, or source that you get the fuse electric box, thanks
Thank you for the tip where to get the fuse block. The braided ground straps can be bought in most parts stores in the battery accessory area. For GMs you should have one from the fire wall to the engine and from the fire wall to the hood. One video I saw recently said these grounds being bad can cause weak radio reception.
Yup - the first problem I noticed was my radio popping randomly... the problem escalated into ABS and Stabilitrack warning lights at random times. The ground ribbons are pretty easy to find, but you can't really tell when they start cracking because they're hidden behind the motor... adding the extra ground wire is just a backup preventative... and it's easier to check, obviously. I didn't notice one going to the hood... I'll have to check that.
What gauge ground wire did you use?
i would say that you did a great video, but is annoying the watermark. i had the same issue on my 2011 silverado. Any ways i would like to tank you to share your video. great job.
I need help finding my fuse box for my car
Can the addition of the ground wire be used as a preventative measure? I am currently having an issue with my high beams but that's the only electrical issue. Not sure if it's related.
of course it would be a preventative measure. Cant hurt. I would do it.
It most definitely will!
What gage should the wire be? Where did you get it?
Been having electrical gremlins for about a year. They come and go...I wiggled tight all of the harnesses, cleared codes and was back on the road issue free...been doing this from time to time but I'm to the point that I need to fix it for good.
Will definitely be adding the extra ground. Any thoughts on the RVC Regulated Voltage Control system?
There is a sensor near the fuse panel that reads the return current and then tells the alternator to charge the system. Some have had success with unplugging this 3 pin harness while others have addressed the error in the voltage signal return by replacing the grounds (path of least resistance...bypassing the measured return ground)
Just thought I'd share my thoughts and ask to see if any of the electrical issues have resurfaced?
Stella's UP!
Jay did you figure out how to fix the RVC issue you described above. if so care to share I may have the same issue as my new alternator is still not charging my battery.
@@roosterpalooza1985
Clean all harness connections...at tranny...BCM...Everywhere
Install new positive and negative GM OEM battery cables
Added an extra ground from alternator mount to existing firewall ground on drivers side.
Problems went away for awhile....started again.....changed the alternator...even though it tested good and we haven't had a problem ever since
2011 chevy Silverado 5.3. My relay for my fog lights ((4 prong) one of the prongs broke off inside due to corrosion. Is there a way to get that broken prong out of the fuse panel?
The two studs in the front of the box are for your trailer breaks and your constant 12v to the 7 pin harness in the back bumper..
So they are not supposed to have nuts on them if nothing is attached?
Thanks for this response, mine has wires there and I didn't know what for.
Makes since now as I have a trailer brake controller.
Stick the watermark in the corner. Great video otherwise.
Yeah, didn't realize the video software was going to do that... next time!
He can't move the watermark, he was using a trial version and if you buy the editing software the watermark does not appear.
Thanks for posting
The FILMORA logo in the middle of the screen was annoying, but otherwise...stellar job on the video! Thank Branon.
I need help..,why does the 60 fuse for my turning signals keep on busting....07 suburban
I have a 05 tahoe. Will this fix my 4x4 selector and my heated seats. They seem to have a mind of there own. Middle of summer, driving down the highway and the heated seats will just start on there own. It will do this several times until I shut down the engine and re start it.
Always disconnect the negative battery terminal first and reconnect it last.
A couple of websites say this part (19210436) need special programming. Is that correct? Need to replace mine. Thnx
Will this cause my right side blinker to stay solid on even when the truck is off this is driving me crazy trying to find the problem?
No idea, but I would add the extra ground wire as a preventative regardless because you cannot tell when the 'ground ribbon' starts to deteriorate as it is behind the engine block
I'm having the exact same problem, except on drivers side
Just FYI - if you are having ANY electrical problems with your big block Chevy - add an extra ground wire from the fire wall to the alternator bracket first. That $3 piece of wire may save you tons of troubleshooting! (This is the green wire you will see in the video) 10 gauge or better.
Great video! I am currently have the similar issues with my instrument cluster. Where did you get the cable from and the screw to for the alternator mounted end?
@@mrparker1972 I bought a piece of wire from the auto parts store along with a bolt that fit (8mm or 10mm, I don't remember). The second time - just to update the wire since I crimped it while doing some other work, I used 16guage wire and standard electrical connectors.
Have the same problem in my 2009 silverado. Trying this tomorrow, maybe save me some money.
Great video
Thanks!
I'm sorry , but what is symptoms why you would need to make ground wire from cab to alternate!?
@@chadbailey189 See more recent comments, but basically the ground ribbon that goes from the fire wall to the back of the motor can get kinked or break down over time, which creates a bunch of electrical issues. My Suburban (and my dad's Silverado) would throw random codes and warning lights including ABS, Stabilitrack, even the radio would pop occasionally. Eventually, the issue escalated in my Suburban and it blew out the backup relay. Unfortunately, the backup relay isn't a quick plug and play $19 relay... it's actually a circuit board buried in the Fuse Block, so when it goes, the entire $300 fuse block has to be replaced, which is what I did in this video. Adding an extra ground wire from the fire wall to the extra bolt hole in the alternator bracket solved the problem on my Suburban and my Dad's Silverado. Above I said 10 gauge wire... it should be 16 gauge or better, and I think the alternator bracket is an 8mm, but it could've been a 10mm. I have a Tahoe now, and the first thing I did was add the extra ground wire.. so far so good.
So while my cousin unhooked the positive cable from the battery to replace the fuse block I notice he accidentally touched a metal piece under the hood with the positive cable & now that the fuse block is in nothing on the truck is getting fire even doe my battery is brand new & was working fine b4 all this...Can you tell me what can b the problem please
Cornelius B Jones check the 175 mega amp fuse
I always thought you just needed to remove the ground wire working on anything electrical?
Agreed! Check the mega-amp fuse and always disconnect the battery ground terminal first and reattach it last.
how do I know if i have to replace the block? is there a way to test the relay?
In mine, the backup lights stayed on ALL the time, whether the vehicle was on or not.
Thank you!
Ok where is the link to where you got the part from?
Link is in my reply from over a year ago about where I bought the fuse block. Scroll down.
@@branon9531 yea I don't see it?
I can't find my original purchase email, but I think it was this one:
www.gmpartsdirect.com/oem-parts/gm-junction-block-19210436
I have a short going to the fuse block killing my battery I wonder if that’s the same issue . 2010 Escalade
Could be.. just add an extra ground wire from the firewall geound screw to the alternator bracket and see if that helps.. might also take the fuse block off and make sure there's no stray debris
@@branon9531 oh I did the ground there a while ago and replaced the ground on terminal going to front bumper. I’ll try fuse block. Thanks man
is there a way to test to see if it is the relay inside that is bad
Main problem is your reverse lights will stay on when your fuse block relay is bad, 99.9% of the time it's the relay in the fuse block.
Other problem could be faulty neutral safety switch
Tom Christensen watch the car doctor he shows you
Any cheat codes on getting wiring harness apart from fuse block? Mine is not sliding off nearly as easy as in the video.
Assume you would just wiggle each one individually a bit to get them to release. Hopefully, you didn't get a short that melted anything together. Sorry for the late reply. I don't monitor this channel regularly.
I cant get none of the harness to release from old fuse box am I missing anything I pulled up fuse box and harneses are still attached did you have to remove the 2 screws in front of fuse box pleaseee help
There are two levers on the ends that you unlock and the whole thing should just lift off. If the harness underneath are still attached, I'm guessing you would need to wiggle each one individually to get them loose. Just make sure you re-seat them in the right spots. I didn't have that issue, so I'm not sure.
Could this also fix the relays to the door??? My 09 Tahoe isn’t getting an power to my driver door
Entirely possible... the ground wire supports something like 80+ points. It's $3 worth of wire.. what could it hurt?
Are these panels the same across options in that year?
I believe there were 2 different versions, the parts place used my VIN number to pick the right one. Mine was the LTZ, so it was probably the more expensive of the 2. LOL
Chevy, GMC, and Cadillac SUVs and Full-Size Trucks have a series of electrical problems that can be solved by adding an extra ground wire. If you wait too long, the problem will blow the back-up light relay, which is an integrated circuit inside the fuse block, and the only way to repair it is to replace the fuse block under the hood ($300 part). This video will walk you through changing the block, but it will also show you where to add the ground wire and solve many of your electrical issues including TPMS lights, Stabilitrack lights, engine lights, radio popping, and lights on all the time.
Branon Edwards sorry I meant to tag you in my initial post
Branon Edwards I’ve got all those lights you named on and the odometers are going haywire, the fuse box fuses are excessively hot but only on one side of the fuse box do you think the additional ground will solve issue?
can you expect this will cause a problem with 4x4 engagement as well? I have all the symptoms you describe here including door chime not turning off, door locks locking and locking on the own, digital gear selector flashing along with abs flashing and a hand full of codes pointing toward the transmission control module.
Im also having similar issues on my 2012 silverado. Im also looking to add 4 awg wire from firewall to alternator bracket as you did. By the way, what size bolt is the one holding down your green wire on alternator bracket?
I have a electrical short on the main power coming in the fuse block. It has been shorting out to the point that it has burned it up. I can't replace the female connection. Can you buy the individual connection blocks or buy the whole bottom?
is the board not fixable?
I would not fuck with that my guy unless you want even more electrical problems I looked at my truck wrong one day and now the pcm and tcm won’t communicate 😂
@@OkieTA95 oh damn hahahaha
Yes, I am new to this what gauge ground wire?? please tell us bc I am new to all this and been tryna figure out my problems with 2004 chevy tahoe and I would like to try this
I think it was 10-gauge - purchased at the local auto parts store as a 6-foot piece of wire.
Branon I have a real challenge wanted to see if you can help. I have a 2004 Chevy Avalanche and when I go to turn it over all I get is the clicking. Long story short I replaced the starter, did work. I then replaced my still under warranty battery still didn't work. I thought it may be starter relay but didn't work. I then checked my battery with multimeter while it was running to make sure the alternator was charging. I only got 12.6 volts max. So decided to replace the alternator but it is still not charging my battery and truck won't crank without my jump box. Please help!!!
Reply
I'm a real estate broker, not a mechanic - I just do a little Do-It-Yourself on things that I have the tools to do. I would check the ground ribbon that runs from the fire wall to the back of the motor (a little awkward, I had to actually lay on the engine to see where it connected). I would also add the second ground wire as I discuss in the video since there are dozens of grounds that go through that one grounding point. Any one of them could be creating an issue. If you get stray warning lights like Stabilitrack, ABS, etc.. it's often the ground wire just not making a good ground. Apparently, electrical problems caused by faulty ground is a major issue with the big block Chevys and GMCs.
It does sound like it could be a starter relay, but if the alternator isn't charging, maybe the wiring from the alternator to the battery has an issue? Again, start with the simplest fix (add the second ground wire from the fire wall to the alternator bracket).. and then start using your MultiMeter to see if you can find a broken wire somewhere between the alternator and the battery. I'm sure there's someone who's commented here that has had a similar problem or might be a mechanic who can help. Good luck, and if you don't mind, please report back so we can all benefit from what you learn along the way. Thanks!
@@branon9531 thank you for the response I will definitely be checking that ground ribbon today and adding the extra one you suggested. If I happen to solve this mystery, I will definitely be following up to let everyone know.
@@branon9531 well after alot of testing and head scratching I finally figure out the problem. It was a bad ground off the negative battery cable going to the frame. I have since added a ground from the negative side battery cable going to the firewall and all is working like it should! Thanks!!
@@roosterpalooza1985 Nice catch! Glad it's working again!!
Thanks good info.
Are there supposed to be nuts on those two posts/threaded bolts sticking out of the relay piece that you pull out (visible at three minutes 55 seconds)???
No, that's how it came... and I did not have to remove any nuts from those post bolts when I removed the old one
for trailer brakes
Does the new junction box com with all the fuses and relays ??
Yes, it was completely loaded. I kept the old one so I would have spares.
Branon Edwards man, thank you so much for the quick response. Gonna order one today. Really appreciate it 👍🏻
I can't find my original purchase email, but I think it was this one:
www.gmpartsdirect.com/oem-parts/gm-junction-block-19210436
They have it. There’s an important factor of major concern. Many of the online sales sites have you enter your VIN to confirm correct part purchase. However, many of them use the same source and there’s a glitch in it. In my case, all the sites said that the 22798214 junction block would not fit on my 2012 Chevy Silverado 1500 V6 WT. I contacted several Chevy dealer parts counters and was informed that it was the correct part. I pointed this out to the site that I made my purchase from and that’s when I was learned of the glitch. Always contact Chevy or GMC dealer parts departments before buying. A few dealers asked for the year and last 8 digits from the VIN where others requested all 17 numbers. Even the site that I made my purchase from had the very same glitch issue.
What size bolt did you use on alternator bracket?
The only one that fit the existing hole - 10mm I think.
Do it matter the size of the ground wire that I use?
14-10 gauge should be good
where did you get the fuse block and how much did it cost.
I can't find my original purchase email, but I think it was this one:
www.gmpartsdirect.com/oem-parts/gm-junction-block-19210436
Would this cause my 07 suburban to cut out when driving. Or even not wanna start?
Yes
Fuel pump fuse
Where did you buy it? I can't find one.
I can't find my original purchase email, but I think it was this one:
www.gmpartsdirect.com/oem-parts/gm-junction-block-19210436
OMG...none of my harness wires came off. But apparently there's no clips holding them in? Time to persuade them all off. And I bet they're all coroded :(
Any luck getting the plugs loose I'm having same problem
What gauge ground wire did you use? Thanks.
I think it was 10 gauge
Not to criticize,but the ground needs to be sized to carry 100% load. In other words, 4ga yours will prove inadequate eventually
If u take it apart it's full of relays that u can solder in made by tyco...ya the rc makers...but good luck bc u can't by them so ur stuck buying another fuse box.
There is "Filmora" and "Wondershare" in large letters overlaying the video!! Very annoying!! Can't see what you're doing!
Anyone find out what guage ground wire?
the bigger the better. I would use at least a 10g.
10 g sounds about right
that's good 🍺
I have a 2007 yukon. My backup lights stay on all the time too. I had to pull the fuse because it has been going on for a few months now.
Recently, I added the ground wire, like in this video. Since then my truck doesn't want to turn off, after I remove the key. It'll will sometimes run for 3-5 more seconds (once it ran for 30+ seconds) after I remove the key. I don't think the new ground wire caused this. Probably a coincidence. I figured this new issue was also from a bad fuse block. Note- it isn't dieseling, it is running smoothly, it just doesn't want to turn off for a bit.
So I finally replaced my fuse block (just like you did). However, replacing the fuse block and it did NOT solve my reverse light issue or engine continuing to run issue.
If it is not the fuse block, does anyone have an idea of another reason why my reverse lights would stay on, or why the car would keep running after the key is removed.
Probably need a new ignition switch if it wont turn off
See comments above about trailer lights... could be a bad neutral safety switch apparently. The reverse light issue SHOULD be the relay built into the fuse block - especially if pulling the fuse fixes it. The entire problem stemmed from a bad ground - replacing the ground wire (ground ribbon from firewall to rear of engine) or adding a second ground wire from firewall to the extra bolt on the alternator bracket - should prevent and solve many electrical issues on the big block Chevy/GMC trucks.
Sure wish you had removed that annoying 'filmora' thingy from the screen so it would be easier to see what you are doing!
Engien heat and fan getting fues box hot and bern it s wrong place they put it in company
Good video but the words need to go
🤦🏾♂️I lost a terrible fight last night to those 2 stupid fucking grey plastic arms. I tried for 2 hours to get then in the right groove to get them to lock the fuse box on and just ended up breaking one of the black retaining clips on the base and both gray arms. I've replaced countless transmissions, engines, and many other common parts on cars and trucks throughout the years and I think I've met my match. I just couldn't get it to seat in and now my brother's 13' Yukon Denali is stuck in my garage until I figure this shit out. I'm almost to the point of taking out a personal loan and towing this damn headache to the dealer and let them take care of it. I know I'll be anally raped on the price but right now I'm pissed and ready to get it back on the road. Any more tips on persuading the box back onto it's base or am I totally screwed?
If it didn't drop right into olace, my guess is they sold you the wrong fuse block. There were 2different versions for my 07 Suburban, and they had to use the VIN to order the correct one
Agreed, those handles are a real pain and they have to be manipulated in just the right way to remove and reattach!
Good video but. Someone repair the fusebox???
The backup relay is a circuit board built into the fuse block, so there's no way for a layman to fix it. The other relays are just quick swap outs, but the back up is hard-installed
I’ve owned my 07 Suburban for 4 years now and haven’t had reverse lights the entire time. Going to pull a couple junk yard fuse blocks hoping they’ll be in good shape enough to get reverse lights.
So please don’t do what this guy did the main issue was ur ground all along I know for a fact I owned my truck since 2006 nbs Silverado and only problem that I know is the ground on these trucks
Exactly - the ground wire is apparently responsible for like 90% of Chevy's electrical problems. I didn't catch the issue until the backup relay burned out.
Watermark is TOO BIG. In the way. Very distracting.
First of all u fuked up disconnecting the positive never disconnect it u disconnect the negative first that’s y I’m 100 percent sure u messed up that relay by disconnecting the positive and reconnecting ur lucky it didn’t blow out again when making this video
The relay was messed up BEFORE I did anything to the battery. As stated in the video, the backup lights were staying on ALL the time, which meant fried relay. I was always told to disconnect the positive because there's no way to short out the system if the positive is disconnected.. but you can definitely ground it out if the positive is connected an you only disconnect the negative... the negative cable just has to touch something and it grounds and powers up the system. But hey, thanks for your 2 cents. :)