Suzuki Forenza timing belt and water pump replacement part 2 of 2
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- Опубліковано 12 вер 2024
- A step by step video on replacing the timing belt, water pump, idlers, and tensioner on a 2008 Suzuki Forenza (Chevy Optra, GM Daewoo Lacetti)
• Suzuki Forenza timing ...
I watch on UA-cam many videos about cars repairs but this one was the best that I saw.
GRJR made a such very good job that I believe even dealers will be capable to do some video like that. It was amazing how he showed all step by step with such detailed explanation and precision. I liked the way that he started with all necessary tools identified by size and colors. I have Suzuki Forenza and a never saw some good video like this one. Congratulations for this video.
Great videos. The only real tough part was stretching that belt enough to get it on. I wouldn't have tried it without your video. You saved me some big bucks. Thanks!
Thank you for an excellent comprehensive video. I now have confidence that I can replace the timing belt on my suzuki and save about $600.
Thank you for this great video. It has helped me more than I can describe. I can now do this procedure and save dealership costs. I read that many motors of these cars blow due to letting the timing belt not get changed. My problem is an intermittent leaky water pump. This is dues to the thermostat....weirdest thing I have come across.
This has help me...Thank you.
I'm about to do this myself and this video is perfect. Best tutorial video I've come across. Very clear and descriptive. Thanks a lot!
Your video was a BIG help, Thanks!!!
2005 Forenza, I was asked to look at the car because of a noise coming from the timing belt area, turned out to be a worn out timing idler. This car had 120,000 on the original timing belt/componants and it looked it. I had to go a little more involved as the cam seals were leaking and the water pump was stuck due to being corroded in place. I did figure out a way to lock the cam gears in place, a small pair of vice grips lightly clamping the two gears together keeps them aligned to the marks.
Great job like many good mechanics I know your patient and slow and not rushed and do a very thorough job
You can move the crank a limited amount if both cams are aligned with their timing marks. NEVER force the crank to turn without a timing belt, you can bend a valve. If your camshafts are not aligned with their timing marks, there is a point in crankshaft rotation where all the pistons are half way in the cylinders. If you can find this point you should be able to rotate the cams all you want. You can pull the spark plugs and use a wooden dowel to find this half way point for all the cylinders.
Oh, I wish you were close by, I'd pay you to do my 2004 Forenza. I liked how careful and thorough you were.
Works for 2007 Suzuki Reno as well… Same engine. Thanks so much for sharing!
GRJR; your video is just amazing. I learned a lot watching your video.
You made this video with a lot of details and I liked it.
Congratulations.
A question; how did you noticed that you water pump was not good?
+Nyck461 the water pump was still functioning, it was replaced as a precautionary measure. If the water pump is leaking it should be replaced of course.
grjr
I think she wanted you dude
Thanks for the video, I have learned something from you. Greetings from UK and Portugal.
thanks I wanted to see the adjuster position you saved me time ,
OMG! Yes, it's a good video, you covered it all, but... Next time, buy a white paint pen. Mark across the top of the old belt where the two cam pulleys marks are, count the number of belt teeth between as a backup, and also go down to the crank pulley and mark across the bottol of the belt at the same point as that mark. NEXT, when you take the old belt off, mark the new belt in the same places. NOW, when you put the new new belt on, who cares if the cam pulleys move, you have the belt marked, and as long as you get your marks right and you keep them in the right place, in the end everything will line up just right. Also, use a q-tip, bent it a little, to make the mark on the belt at the crank pulley. This is also a great time to change spark plugs, and leaving them out makes the engine ten times easier to turn and maneuver. I also think that if you take a close look at that belt tensioner, you will see that it is marked on one side as "NEW" and on the other side as "USED." I start a new belt on the NEW side of the notch.
Good work, I have a Lacetti with the same plan of changing all the same parts.
try rotate the coolant pump counterclockwise to release the tension on the timing belt to put the belt on. then rotate it back
I liked a lot your video.
Suzuki has not much information about repairs and your video bring a lot of information.
I was starting this job today but for not enough time I stooped and will go back tomorrow to get it completed.
I am also replacing the cam shaft sensor but I am suffering to get loosed the screw that hold the sensor in place. The motor mount is just in front of the window and the torx screw ca not be reached as needed. I will appreciated some idea in how to get that screw removed.
Excellent video. Thank you for doing that. You're awesome. Now it's time to do mine :((
When I did it I just pulled the timing belt over the last pulley by force while having someone else make sure the cams were not working against me. I have heard of other people removing the tensioner and then installing it after the belt is routed around all the other sprockets but you would have to be very careful not to cross thread the tensioner bolt while installing it. I don't know how well that method works as I have never tried it.
Thanks for the comment :)
Great videos, thanks very much!
The arrow shouldn't come into contact with the water pump. Make sure your water pump is installed in the correct orientation (rotation) as per the video. Also be sure that the 13 mm tensioner bolt is not tightened down so much that it does not allow for adjustment of the tensioner. Make sure that the tensioner arrow is pointing at the correct starting position as in the video. Beyond that'd I'd inspect the tensioner itself to make sure it is not defective.
I have a after market water pump and is not the exact one as yours. The water pump I have came with a GATES forenza timing kit, and has 2 weep holes. I tried placing both weep holes at the 12 o'clock position and both times the arrow from the tensioner is hitting up against the water pump. I am pretty its the orientation of the water pump as well, but I just can't seem to find the correct position for the pump. I put the old water pump back in, and it works fine as that pump locks in place.
A cam locking tool sounds like it would be useful, I don't happen to have one so I had to struggle with the cams while installing the timing belt.
The crankshaft locks up before it reaches the TDC mark and doesn't want to go any further? Did the timing belt break on the engine you're working on? You can try removing the spark plugs if it is the compression you are fighting against...
Just catching this. When reinstalling the belt. Use a pare of vise grips to hold the gears together. NOT TO TIGHT. this will help. Nice job.
Hi I was progressing along nicely following your excellent video, but I've run into a serious issue. I was having problems getting the tensioner to tighten correctly, in the process of doing it I have dramatically thrown off the timing marks of the cams and crank shaft.
I'm afraid to try moving either and the only videos I can find say to open the head and deal with the cams from there. any suggestions would be appreciated.
Tom Jones remove the timing belt and all spark plugs (so you wont feel any compression) and turn the crankshaft so that it is positioned 90 degrees left or right (doesn't matter in which direction) from top dead center. Do this slowly and if you feel any resistance (piston touching a valve) go in the opposite direction to get to 90 degrees from TDC. The crank should rotate fairly easy and you should be able to notice any sudden change in resistance. After doing this all your pistons will be half way up/down the cylinders and allow you to rotate both cams to where they should be without fear of the valves and pistons contacting each other. After the cams are where they should be you can rotate the crank 90 degrees to get the crank back to TDC and you can continue installing the belt.
grjr Thank you for the fast response. I followed your directions and everything worked out great. It's my daughter's car that she uses for college, so I appreciate your help alot. And again, great video.
Glad everything worked out for you. Thanks for the comment!
When you rotate your crank twice. Is it understood or assumed that that bottom crank is still lined up at the notch at the bottom?
you might be able to clamp the two cams together with a vice grip to get rid of the problem of them moving
if your new pump doesn't have the locating tab on its outer circular circumference like the original then just rotate the pump to any position where it doesn't interfere with your tensioner and you should be ok.
TY for your videos, im wonder how much torque did you put on the motor mounts?
Thanks for the video, I'm at the point of getting the timing belt back on, but I can't seem to get it over the tensioner pully. I took out the spark plugs so that I'm not fighiting against the compression of the engine to get TDC.
What was the final trick to getting the timing belt on? I've even used the zip ties to hold the belt on the cam sprokets.
The tensioner is spring loaded iirc, but the spring won't come out unless you completely destroy the tensioner. If the threads for the tensioner bolt were stripped you would never be able to get the bolt to tighten. The process of tensioning the belt is critical and needs to be done as shown. I highly recommend the use of a quality torque wrench for tightening down all the timing belt components. You say the arrow slips, does it return to its correct position when you reach cylinder #1 TDC?
grjr hi
grjr i care mkank
This engine design great for diy to remove crank puller.
I change the timing belt on my 2007 Suzuki about two years ago. I could never get the tensioner markings to line up correctly it just kept snapping back. The timing belt was a very tight and took me hours to actually get it on.
After you got everything back together did you just start the car or put it back in time
Great video does this also work for 2005 chev optra my timing belt didn't break I am thinking may have jumped because car will not start seems like no compression. When car stopped it was like a switch was turned off didn't make a sound. If the belt did jump do I use the same procedure with the timing marks to reinstall
Could you have locked the cam with a locking tool by removing cover and placing the tool on the cam. I'm getting ready to do this to a 2009 chevrolet aveo with a ecotec engine. Liked your way but would you recommend the locking tool on the cam and crank ?
Great videos, Do you know why it makes that squeaking sound when you turn on the engine? I know for sure that is not the serpentine belt since you actually start up the engine without it, by any chance do you know what it is? I have that same noise on my forenza
good tip, I know they do make special tools to do this but that sure is cheaper :)
if you can't see the marks then they are probably covered in old oil and grime, clean the surfaces with brake cleaner to make them visible
The car had about 80k miles when the belt was first changed so the belt was overdue 20k miles. The belt did have cracking along the backside. It's risky to go over the 60k mile replacement interval.
Excellant repair video
Thank you for sharing this video. it was a very helpful guide when changing the timing belt and pump in my Chevrolet optra5 hatchback. I bought the gates kit from rockauto.com . I had a buddy of mine help me install the timing belt kit, you are better off if you have a second person helping you!!. The only issue I had was trying to get the belt on, it was a pain. unfortunately I had to pry the belt on because the tensioner was not giving it enough slack. The 6mm allen head hole stripped pretty easily on the tensioner as well. I had to wedge a straight screwdriver in place to turn the tensioner so the needle would be in the "new" position on the tensioner. Then I tightened the tensioner bolt. A question I do have is; when manually turning the crank after the whole install I noticed that the tensioner needle will move from "new" to "old" and bounces back and forth depending on which position the crank pulley is in, I figure being a tensioner it has to have some sort of flexability in it so I am guessing this is normal? The timing belt is tight if you touch it, it has no room to skip the teeth. Let me know if you had this happened during your install? Thank you again for your detailed videos.
I also found that I had to turn the Allen bolt counterclockwise to line up the arrow on the tensioner. the needle on the top would turn the opposite way of the Allen bolt which didn't make sense but it worked for me. The only thing i noticed was the needle will slightly move between the used and new marks when I was turning the crankshaft manually with a ratchet.
It's normal for the tensioner needle to move as you rotate the crankshaft, it only matters that the needle end up pointing in the same spot after reaching #1 TDC. Getting the needle to point where it should is possible by rotating the tab with the allen hex hole in either direction, no problem.
grjr Thank you for the info, I was just worried it wasn't locked in properly because the needle was moving but yes it was in the "New" position when all the timing marks were lined up and would return to the "new" position once the marks lined up again after manually cranking over. It was just annoying because the 6mm Allen hole striped and we had to set the final clocking of the tensioner in place with a straight screwdriver instead of a 6mm Allen wrench. There isn't much depth for the Allen head to sit in so I think that is what caused it to strip.
Mine is at about 48,000 miles 2007. did you have any cracks or signs of wear on timing belt/pulleys ?
Hello, Grjr, thanks for your videos. I am having problems with my tensioner arrow not moving. I have the bolt in the middle and I keep rotating the 6mm hex around the center bolt. All it does it spin and spin until the arrow hits up against the water pump and then I can't rotate the tensioner any longer. What am i doing wrong?
That's very helpfull, I like it. Hey , I have a question: Do you have any idea about the engine light stay on afther doing the timing belt work? And it's never been before... Thank's, I'll apprst it...
Get the code scanned to find out more, could be many things such as an out of time cam. No way to know without knowing the code.
I just bought a 2004 chevrolet optra ls5 with a 2.0 dtec 16valve . I want to put a cold air intake and exhaust but cant find eney sites or nothing . I know this has nothing to do with you video but i need help . And i saved this video for future if i need to do this but if you could help with my prob that would be great . Thanks
The engine had cooled down by the time I installed the timing belt. The temperature of the engine shouldn't really effect the timing belt tension in any significant way.
its out off topic but your video is so detailed i think you may know where is the Idle Control Valve located on this car its not on a throttle body i just cant find any information on the location online. Thnak you in advance
Sorry I do not know
Ok
good night I have a forenza 2007 I had a failure with the belt of time, lost teeth and the belt has been changed and the pulleys have been positioned in the respective brands, but it does not start, it will be that I have a more serious problem inside the engine, bent valves, or other type of failure that does not stop a computer crash?
Hello, i am having trouble with tensioner, Is there a spring behind it? someone told me there may be and i lost it, Everytime i get it right like the marks and tighen 13mm and i turn crank it slips(the arrow), is tht because i never torqued it even tho i tighten crap out of it, i feel like i put more than 18lb on it, or do u think its a missing spring or maybe i stripped 13mm bolt, or are u leaning toward i need to torque it right? I even bought a new one and it does same thing, thanks 4 ur help
How did you get the pointer not to move I got everything lined up when I turn the camshaft the pointer moves back to where it was
Do you have to replace the timing belt when you do the water pump
Thanks for sharing your video :-)
Based. thank you very much, King.
Thank u sir for this video
Question (don`t laugh): can you advanced the timing by rotatatin 1 toth of the pulley or the crank stays put and you rotate de cam axles? And by that will you damage or interfere the pistons with valves? Thank you very much
I have a suzuky forenza 2008 and have a overheating problem, i change the thermostate, the sensor and clean the radiator, and still heating, the fans enter in slow velocity but doesn`t frose enough, what do you recomend me to do? thans for your answer.
I just replace the engine Head after taking it to machine shop, but jus after tuning engine on a lot of white smoke came out of exout pipe.
I have a question. if that pointer thing on tensioner wasn't aligned the car wont run?
Thanks, iirc the jack I used is a honda scissor jack
what if i have the cam sprockets lined up but my crank wont line up in the bottom? like the motor wont turn enough, bent valve maybe?
I was curious how long did it take to do all this work? Also do you still have the car?
I don't know how long it took, shooting video explanations of every step takes a long time. If you're handy and do not run into any trouble you should be able to complete it in a day, if not two. This was not my car, I did the work for the owner of the car.
Do you know exactly where the crankshaft marking are I'm having trouble finding them
how long did it take you start to finish?
I can not install the tensioner, put it in the correct position and this tour, but the marker does not move, even when I tighten the screw. I can move ell net by hand and when I release is returned to the original position. what happens, I'm doing something wrong can you
My belt tensioner is making a tickin noise does it need to be tightin or replace plz help
hello my crankshaft gear moves at the end whenever i want to adjust the timing belt tensioner. whenever i tighten the bolt and the pointer is in the new notch the mark on my crank gear has moved like 3 degrees. please help!
can you move the crank without the timing belt if no how can you fix the problem?
excellent video great help
Could the motor be damaged
Do a video for the Chevy aveo.
I need part one of this video please does anybody know how to get it
I'm wondering why you didn't torque the engine mounts?
I don't think I had a torque specification for the engine mount bolts. Engine mount bolts are typically torqued from about 45 to 55 lbft
as long as all your marks line up everything should be fine
what's 60/40? I'm a noob. :) 60 coolant/ 40 water?
hey, can you tell me coolant thermostat location and how to replace it? I have the same year and model of Suzuki
on top of the engine where the hose coming from the radiator connecting to the engine ( left top side)
When belt don't get tight what's going on when you can't get the tension pulley to lock in?
i have the same question.. my damn tension wont tied the fucking timing belt..
What did you do to put the belt on because it's really tight
I had someone else move/adjust the pulleys for me as I pulled the belt into place. Make sure the water pump is rotated to where it puts a minimum amount of tension on the belt.
thank you
you also didnt mention why is locktite neccesary. And what about if i dont have a torque wrench:/
+Jorge Jimenez the loctite is there from the factory so.... and if you don't have a torque wrench you'll have to guess if the bolts are tight enough or not. Guessing can lead to broken/damaged threads or bolts coming loose with time. There are cheap torque wrenches out there... I wouldn't recommend them but if it's all you can get then it might be better than nothing at all.
My coolant tank keeps draining coolant and I have searched for leaks but cant find any. Does anyone know what else I should try doing or checking? I was told by someone to add water but I'm not sure how safe that is?
DaMarvian Turner head gasket
I finished with this but when I try and turn the car on it dont turn over it just spins and sounds like it choking my problem was not a broken timing belt but one of the idler pulleys was busted some one please help
saul garcia was the idler pulley broken before you replaced the timing belt? Did the engine run before replacing the timing belt? The crankshaft and camshafts may not be timed correctly assuming everything else is in working order.
Yea I thought the problem was a broken timing belt but when I tooks everything apart I discovered it was the left pully the car had been running good before that then all of a sudden any I ideas I'm going to have bro do it all over again
saul garcia If the timing belt slipped even once because the pulley malfunctioned, then you have bent valves. That happened to my 08 Suzuki and I had to take it completely apart and take it to the machine shop. Good luck, hopefully you get it running again.
I'm doing the timing belt on my wife's car same car but I can't get the cams to stay on the marks and when I do and I get to put the belt on the top cams the bottom pulley moves any tips please
fishing _with_a_ginger I have the same issue. the exhaust cam springs back. the intake is fine. the needle on the tensioner keeps moving back..
fishing _with_a_ginger I am late in replying but maybe this will help someone else who reads this, there are tools sold to hold cam gears in place so they dont turn. The cheaper alternative is to get a helper to hold the cams in place while you get the belt on.
grjr I'm glad to hear all of everything now I got one to do this week
I'm really not sure, I just mixed 50/50 for simplicity
dude, what about that BALD tire you put back on ! Great video, very meticulous. Very Good !
lol and thanks
I watch on UA-cam many videos about cars repairs but this one was the best that I saw.
GRJR made a such very good job that I believe not even dealers will be capable to do some video like that. It was amazing how he showed all step by step with such detailed explanation and precision. I liked the way that he started with all necessary tools identified by size and colors. I have Suzuki Forenza and a never saw some good video like this one. Congratulations for this video.