You sir, are amazing. I have an 08' Forenza that needs an oil pump. I turned the crank pulley with the timing belt off and will now be resetting my cams timing. Wouldn't have had a clue without your videos. Thank you!!!
I still haven’t gotten this car running due to not fooling with it, but the car is running hot and it blew the radiator hose, and then eventually the entire radiator exploded. This is after I replaced the oil pump and reset the camshafts. Would you say it’s likely the head gasket? I’ve replaced all the motor accessories, timing belt, etc. but I never pulled the head off all the way. I’m considering pulling it and resurfacing the head and replacing the gasket, what do you think?
Crab, not sure if you're still interested, but I took a look at this before I buttoned it up. On the intake camshaft side, the head bolts are slightly to the side, but if they come out past the cam, it will barely make it. On the exhaust side, there is no way those bolts will come out unless the exhaust cam is pulled. Those head bolts are directly under the camshaft.
Yes, some people do it differently as you mention. Some from the outside to inside and some Inside to outside? With only quarter turns on the bolts, it wouldn't hurt the camshafts either way. The general rule is that when you unbolt something such as cams, heads, manifolds, you start from the outside and work your way in. Then when you bolt it back, you start on the inside and work your way outwards. The idea behind this is to minimize any warpage that may occur.
Thank you sooo much Your Head Gasket and Timing belt videos enabled me to be able to do the job myself and saved me soo much $..I was able to take my time as you do and do the job rite ...thank you soo much for all your time and wisdom...God Bless You
Hi crab. I don't have the head to take a look, but the FSM says to remove the cams. Take a look at the removal bolt sequence in this video and you can see that the bolts are a little to the side of cams . May be possible, not sure.
i just kept the intake and exhaust manifolds on saved on time, great video btw excellent explanations. it seems these engine have the same tensioner issue with it coming lose and blowing the head, luckily the pistons were good, the one i did i had to replace all of them and re ream the cylinder bores very big job that was
Hey James. Glad to hear that you got it all worked out. Yes, as for the tensioner bolt getting loose, you're probably right. That's what happened to me and that's why I put lock-tite on all of those bolts around the timing belt area. Take care...
stuzman52 Yep I did as well. The service manual states every 40000 miles or in my town 60000 kms should be changed but my owners manual says 100000 kms or 600000 mile. i will be changing that belt again soon, 200 bucks later vs 3000
***** The service manual says 60,000 miles also. Of course as you may know, mine went out at 40,000 miles with a bolt that loosen up on the tensioner. As you know, it's a pretty easy job to change the belt compared to other vehicles, so you're right, it's good insurance to change that belt versus a $3000 dollar job. Take care James...
stuzman52 You as well. the only reason i keep this car is because for an 06 its very easy to service, when my Transmission range switch went 15 mins later i was done. it was easier to change that then the oil LOL
I hear you James. As for my Suzuki, I sold it back in February. I figured that if Suzuki was going to show their loyalty by shutting down in North America, I could only do the patriotic and loyal thing for them was to sell the car. As far as I know, the guy is enjoying the car and still it's still running good.
thanks for great videos. I'm a diyer and do not have the means to make that crank sprocket holding tool. what other options do I have in order to torque the crank bolt properly?
do the cams have to come out of the head if you only want to replace the head gasket, but no valves? Can't tell if the head bolts are actually under the cam shafts.
I'm getting confused according to the order of unbolting the camshafts, i have been told that we always should start with the quarter turns but from the outside to the inside? some people do it differently with no issues.
great useful video. someone knows the size of camshafts caps bolts? and the cams position sensor bolt? they are torx? I know the camshaft sprockets bolts are torx T50, I'm buying some tools in orde to do this job
I can't say Jay for sure which is which. Others have posted the same question and came to the conclusion that both were the same cam. Since I didn't hear back from them, I can only assume they are the same. Take a look at the cam profiles on each camshaft and see if they point in the same direction.
stuzman52 Thanks for responding. lyd 13 is the exhaust. Please check out my video. My new problem is that whenever I try to turn the cams to line them up, they keep snapping back (video on my channel). This makes it nearly impossible to get the timing marks aligned.
My guess is that if it's a 2.0 liter, then it will probably fit. But you should do a little research such as asking the question at the salvage yard and/or the dealership if you can find one. Take care and thanks for the comment on the videos.
I am in a pickle and hope you can help. The videos on how to replace the head gasket were second to none I have ever seen. made my task easy. Now for the problem. As I was installing the camshaft sprockets and the crankshaft sprocket I found an extra part on the floor directly under the sprockets that I can't account for. It is a round magnet about 1/2' diameter about 1 inch long with a metal stem that sticks to the magnet and the stem has a slotted end. Can you tell me what is might be. I have a picture if you can tell me how to email it to you.
The only thing that comes to mind Ken is a magnet for the camshaft sensor. I'm assuming as I don't know for sure that it would be attached on the backside of one of the camshaft sprockets. Take a look at the back of each one and maybe you can see where it was attached. Hope that helps.
I removed both cam sprockets and nothing attaches to them. Removed the cam sensor thinking it might fit behind it but it is a sealed component mounting to a flat surface. I have discovered that when the timing marks are lined up per the video and the timing belt is on that I can only turn it 1 revolution and it won't go any further. Both cams turn freely on their own and the crankshaft turns freely on its own but when the belt is installed it stops after one revolution. Any ideas. Is there a way I can send you a picture of the spare part to see if it sparks a memory.
Ken Buchholz from my memory as I’ve sold the car years ago, the cam sensor is a hall-effect sensor. I remember now that the sensor may be looking at one of the cam lobes where that magnet may go. I don’t recall any magnet though. You mentioned about replacing the head gasket. The belt didn’t break, correct? If not, there is something wrong about how you’ve lined things up. And if you’re sure that’s correct, are you sure it’s not coming up on compression. You will have some resistance as you turn the crank, but it should not bind.
Thank you figured it out. The magnet and stem was the guts from a rear ABS sensor that I put on my pickup a month ago. I stuck it on my jack and forgot it and while the jack was under the engine I moved it and it was knocked off. Thought the belts were correct but they weren't. So all works well now. Thanks again for the videos, they are amazing and easy and indepth enough to not leave you with questions.
Hello, I like your videos a lot, I have a question I hope you can answer, when we where dismounting this engine, we forgot to mark the camshaft and now we have no idea which is the admission and the exhaust, is there a way to know which is wich? Thanks a lot in advance!!
I have found out that both cam shafts are built identical to eachother. So it doesn't matter which one goes where really. Cause when you install them and their timing is set, they work in an alternating sequence from eachother.
I'm down to removing the head bolts and I was wondering how much psi on the air torque wrench do I need to remove them to get the cyclinder head off ? All I have is a 130psi air conpressor
Miracle you didn't strip those torx bolts. Dodged a bullet there. This is why I like my non-interference engine. Man that sucks, all because of a broken piece of rubber.
Yeah, I got lucky on that one. The bad thing is that the dealership did the last timing belt change and when the tensioner bolt loosen up, then the belt broke. You're right that it sucked because it took about $700 for me to do the job which was parts and the machine work. Thanks for dropping by DJ....
***** Yeah, but it would have been a pain in the ass to go through the hassle. And that dealership went out of business about a year after the belt was changed. As you may know, Suzuki decided to pull out of North America so it's hard to find a dealership nowadays. I think there are still a few around, but they're drying up. So, to offer my loyalty and support for the company, I decided to sell the car back in February. Take care DJ...
Marcos Castellanos assume that you're talking about one of the bolts that hold one of the camshaft caps down. You will need to get it out. You can try left hand drill bit or possibly use an extractor.
You sir, are amazing. I have an 08' Forenza that needs an oil pump. I turned the crank pulley with the timing belt off and will now be resetting my cams timing. Wouldn't have had a clue without your videos. Thank you!!!
You're quite welcome and good luck!
I still haven’t gotten this car running due to not fooling with it, but the car is running hot and it blew the radiator hose, and then eventually the entire radiator exploded. This is after I replaced the oil pump and reset the camshafts. Would you say it’s likely the head gasket? I’ve replaced all the motor accessories, timing belt, etc. but I never pulled the head off all the way. I’m considering pulling it and resurfacing the head and replacing the gasket, what do you think?
You hv got the best videos on car repairs. Great camera angle, clarity, simple to understand. Thank you Sir!
This looks very similar to the head removal I'm doing on a 2004 Chevrolet optra. Everything looks the same. Great video for reference!
Hopefully, the videos will help you out Greg!
Crab, not sure if you're still interested, but I took a look at this before I buttoned it up. On the intake camshaft side, the head bolts are slightly to the side, but if they come out past the cam, it will barely make it. On the exhaust side, there is no way those bolts will come out unless the exhaust cam is pulled. Those head bolts are directly under the camshaft.
Yes, some people do it differently as you mention. Some from the outside to inside and some Inside to outside? With only quarter turns on the bolts, it wouldn't hurt the camshafts either way. The general rule is that when you unbolt something such as cams, heads, manifolds, you start from the outside and work your way in. Then when you bolt it back, you start on the inside and work your way outwards. The idea behind this is to minimize any warpage that may occur.
stuzman ? this is a 2.0 l engine?
Thanks for the info. Good thing is that we found out it was a actually a warranty issue.
Thank you sooo much
Your Head Gasket and Timing belt videos enabled me to be able to do the job myself and saved me soo much $..I was able to take my time as you do and do the job rite ...thank you soo much for all your time and wisdom...God Bless You
Always a glad to hear that a viewer fixed it himself and saved money along the way!
Good to hear that it was in warranty crab! I never seem to have all the luck...Thanks for posting for others crab...
Very helpful stuff. I appreciate it. I am going to get my husband to watch this! Thanks.
Hi crab. I don't have the head to take a look, but the FSM says to remove the cams. Take a look at the removal bolt sequence in this video and you can see that the bolts are a little to the side of cams . May be possible, not sure.
i just kept the intake and exhaust manifolds on saved on time, great video btw excellent explanations. it seems these engine have the same tensioner issue with it coming lose and blowing the head, luckily the pistons were good, the one i did i had to replace all of them and re ream the cylinder bores very big job that was
Hey James. Glad to hear that you got it all worked out. Yes, as for the tensioner bolt getting loose, you're probably right. That's what happened to me and that's why I put lock-tite on all of those bolts around the timing belt area. Take care...
stuzman52 Yep I did as well. The service manual states every 40000 miles or in my town 60000 kms should be changed but my owners manual says 100000 kms or 600000 mile. i will be changing that belt again soon, 200 bucks later vs 3000
***** The service manual says 60,000 miles also. Of course as you may know, mine went out at 40,000 miles with a bolt that loosen up on the tensioner. As you know, it's a pretty easy job to change the belt compared to other vehicles, so you're right, it's good insurance to change that belt versus a $3000 dollar job. Take care James...
stuzman52 You as well. the only reason i keep this car is because for an 06 its very easy to service, when my Transmission range switch went 15 mins later i was done. it was easier to change that then the oil LOL
I hear you James. As for my Suzuki, I sold it back in February. I figured that if Suzuki was going to show their loyalty by shutting down in North America, I could only do the patriotic and loyal thing for them was to sell the car. As far as I know, the guy is enjoying the car and still it's still running good.
Good illustration & information
thanks for great videos. I'm a diyer and do not have the means to make that crank sprocket holding tool. what other options do I have in order to torque the crank bolt properly?
you the best! very good job.tanks for teaching .
+misael Pachero Thanks misael and hope you get it all ironed out.
Thank you and I wish you well.
do the cams have to come out of the head if you only want to replace the head gasket, but no valves? Can't tell if the head bolts are actually under the cam shafts.
@darrin. Thanks Darrin. For me, it would be as I hate car payments. If you like working on cars and I like saving money, why not!
buenos dias, como hago para hacerle un trabajo para que no me dobles las valvula. del motor muy bueno su video
I'm getting confused according to the order of unbolting the camshafts, i have been told that we always should start with the quarter turns but from the outside to the inside? some people do it differently with no issues.
you got the best how to videos
good job o.g
wesley ouk Thank you very much!
Very good video looks like alot of work do think a high mileage car is worth doing the head as you did. 320+ km or around 198 mi
great useful video. someone knows the size of camshafts caps bolts? and the cams position sensor bolt? they are torx? I know the camshaft sprockets bolts are torx T50, I'm buying some tools in orde to do this job
Thanks for the reply
I mixed up my cams, they both have the same part number (r904000056). Ones says lyd 13 and one says lyd15. Which is which?
I can't say Jay for sure which is which. Others have posted the same question and came to the conclusion that both were the same cam. Since I didn't hear back from them, I can only assume they are the same. Take a look at the cam profiles on each camshaft and see if they point in the same direction.
stuzman52 Thanks for responding. lyd 13 is the exhaust. Please check out my video. My new problem is that whenever I try to turn the cams to line them up, they keep snapping back (video on my channel). This makes it nearly impossible to get the timing marks aligned.
hi to everyone here, can you guys tell me the reason why i can not place a motor 2007 on my suzuki forenza 2004?
Great videos! I have Suzuki Reno 2007 and I was wondering if the engine from Suzuki Forenza 2006 or 2007 fits? I am thinking of engine swap.
My guess is that if it's a 2.0 liter, then it will probably fit. But you should do a little research such as asking the question at the salvage yard and/or the dealership if you can find one. Take care and thanks for the comment on the videos.
I am in a pickle and hope you can help. The videos on how to replace the head gasket were second to none I have ever seen. made my task easy. Now for the problem. As I was installing the camshaft sprockets and the crankshaft sprocket I found an extra part on the floor directly under the sprockets that I can't account for. It is a round magnet about 1/2' diameter about 1 inch long with a metal stem that sticks to the magnet and the stem has a slotted end. Can you tell me what is might be. I have a picture if you can tell me how to email it to you.
The only thing that comes to mind Ken is a magnet for the camshaft sensor. I'm assuming as I don't know for sure that it would be attached on the backside of one of the camshaft sprockets. Take a look at the back of each one and maybe you can see where it was attached. Hope that helps.
I removed both cam sprockets and nothing attaches to them. Removed the cam sensor thinking it might fit behind it but it is a sealed component mounting to a flat surface. I have discovered that when the timing marks are lined up per the video and the timing belt is on that I can only turn it 1 revolution and it won't go any further. Both cams turn freely on their own and the crankshaft turns freely on its own but when the belt is installed it stops after one revolution. Any ideas. Is there a way I can send you a picture of the spare part to see if it sparks a memory.
Ken Buchholz from my memory as I’ve sold the car years ago, the cam sensor is a hall-effect sensor. I remember now that the sensor may be looking at one of the cam lobes where that magnet may go. I don’t recall any magnet though. You mentioned about replacing the head gasket. The belt didn’t break, correct? If not, there is something wrong about how you’ve lined things up. And if you’re sure that’s correct, are you sure it’s not coming up on compression. You will have some resistance as you turn the crank, but it should not bind.
Thank you figured it out. The magnet and stem was the guts from a rear ABS sensor that I put on my pickup a month ago. I stuck it on my jack and forgot it and while the jack was under the engine I moved it and it was knocked off. Thought the belts were correct but they weren't. So all works well now. Thanks again for the videos, they are amazing and easy and indepth enough to not leave you with questions.
Glad that you got it all figured out Ken as I know that you're relieved now that everything is working fine :)
Hello, I like your videos a lot, I have a question I hope you can answer, when we where dismounting this engine, we forgot to mark the camshaft and now we have no idea which is the admission and the exhaust, is there a way to know which is wich? Thanks a lot in advance!!
Look closely at them and see if there are any part numbers. Then you could google and see what you come up with.
Look closely at the two and see if there are any part numbers. And then google and see what you get. If not, then I'm sorry.
stuzman52 alright, thanks for your quick answer! Greetings, keep up the good work
I have found out that both cam shafts are built identical to eachother. So it doesn't matter which one goes where really. Cause when you install them and their timing is set, they work in an alternating sequence from eachother.
thanks for this great job
+Khalil Makh Glad you liked the videos and thanks for leaving a comment.
me too
HA HA...
you said that the machine shop might have a turn around time of 1 day...
I'm down to removing the head bolts and I was wondering how much psi on the air torque wrench do I need to remove them to get the cyclinder head off ? All I have is a 130psi air conpressor
Nicholas Bernard 130 psi should be more than enough. Be sure that your air compressor has enough CFM that's suitable for your air tool.
stuzman thank you !!
Please send Service Manual 2000 cc
Miracle you didn't strip those torx bolts. Dodged a bullet there. This is why I like my non-interference engine. Man that sucks, all because of a broken piece of rubber.
Yeah, I got lucky on that one. The bad thing is that the dealership did the last timing belt change and when the tensioner bolt loosen up, then the belt broke. You're right that it sucked because it took about $700 for me to do the job which was parts and the machine work. Thanks for dropping by DJ....
stuzman52 Isn't a timing belt service still under warranty by the dealership? Would you have to get a lawyer to try to get them to own up to that one?
***** Yeah, but it would have been a pain in the ass to go through the hassle. And that dealership went out of business about a year after the belt was changed. As you may know, Suzuki decided to pull out of North America so it's hard to find a dealership nowadays. I think there are still a few around, but they're drying up. So, to offer my loyalty and support for the company, I decided to sell the car back in February. Take care DJ...
What do I do if I strip one of the torq bolts? :(
Marcos Castellanos assume that you're talking about one of the bolts that hold one of the camshaft caps down. You will need to get it out. You can try left hand drill bit or possibly use an extractor.
stuzman I meant the head bolts. Sorry, I stripped the inside of it. Do I still use an extractor or left hand drill bit ?
Marcos Castellanos yes you will have to get that out for sure. Yes, same procedure, good luck!
I need help
like for you
like for you