Your video was spot on....had a little issue getting the yellow connector lock to go up but a small flathead screwdriver pushing upward did the trick...thanks for your efforts....job took about 10 minutes after watching your video....thanks again
There's been some talk about closing the hatch with the battery disconnected. There is a manual override for the hatch lock behind a plastic rectangle on the inside of the hatch. Use a thin blade to pry the plastic part out and you can reach inside with a finger to open the hatch from the inside.
Would the red lighting bolt light up with the crankshaft issue? I think this is one issue. The other , may have something to do with my coolant reservoir. I smell coolant and my coolant level drops to just below a quarter. Having trouble finding the leak.
In these mopars, the lightning bolt is almost always a coolant issue. Google says it's the throttle body but don't listen to that. The mopars will throw the lightning bolt when the engine isn't operating at the proper temp and it'll actually disengage the temp sensor. Check the reservoir and top off your coolant level (run the heater on high while doing this)
If the red lightning bolt is on, it’s the throttle body or the gas pedal on the floor. Hope that helped. Most of the time if you stand it, you can get the code directions to which one to replace.
To start off people in a magnum page suggested replacing the crank sensor that’s why I got to your video… what my car is doing it rough idles while stopped for maybe a minute it’ll die check engine, the lighting bolt and my oil light comes on.. also while I’m driving it’ll try to die on me but keep going I’m getting codes 700, 100 and 730… is this a crank sensor issue? Mine doesn’t crank for a while when I start it but it hesitates a little.. sorry for the long comment
P0700 and P0730 are both showing up as gear ratio issues while P0100 looks like MAF. Probably need to check for and ABS or transmission codes before buying a crank position sensor blindly. Hope this helps
Does the crankshaft sensor have its own fuse in the fuse box? Asking because I’m having the same issues and I changed the crankshaft sensor and pig tail/Wires. Even after that it’s still showing P0335 and random misfire
Not that i know of but I do recommend getting an OEM sensor as opposed to the standard ignition like I got. This sensor ended up going out after about a month, other than that disconnecting the battery is the only suggestion I have. Let me know if that helps🤙🏼
Hey man i just got a 2006 SRT8 300c and I’ve had the same problems as you stated where after driving it and accelerating it ends up stalling and dying on me did this really fix it for you? Would really appreciate the response thank you🙏🏻🙏🏻
Yep, I mentioned in a later video and in this video's description to buy oem sensors. If you buy aftermarket like standard ignition or masterpro, it'll go out after a week or two. Do it right or do it twice. Hope this helps🤙🏼
I have a 2006 Dodge Charger Rt & I have a blown fuse for my interior lights so I replaced the fuse but now my dome lights stays on n won’t go off??? Any suggestions please respond !!!
have a durango with the 5.7 , had issues after 3 crank sensors, and months of p0335 circuit., well low and behold it was the connector. 25 dollars for the pig tail and 3 water tight connectors runs like it should. no hard starts. Wish i would of changed the crank connector and the sensor together.
@@glizokobama_psn wires / circuit were good, but the best way to describe it, the contact tounge lost its spring, and made a erratic/ loose fit on the spades in the sensor (lookup delphi 56 terminals for a visual) the tounge was laying flat/cracked at the fold. The 3 wires are different ,I clipped and crimped ONE wire at a time compared from the latching side of both old connector and new pigtail side by side as not to mess up the original pinout.
Update , had to a shop once after this they found the cam sensor to also be the culprit , they work together I guess. 2 weeks after that the throttle body was wacky, blinky engine light(changed it)I unplugged the egr and capped the evap system at the purge valve and now it's almost trust worthy only died a couple of times in 300 or so miles.,man this vehicle is weird.
@@bloajmj2680 yes they are very weird. I suppose I should try changing the cam sensor and see what happens. My vehicle performance is trash at this point. I’m going to check my crankshaft sensor again as we speak. Even though I replaced it with a new one from auto zone already
On my 300c I have a code for random misfire only and its driving me nuts. Plugs have been replace and gapped right next I'm guessing this sensor might be going out.
Right after I got this car it had the same misfire and hiccuping problem but it sounds like you're having so of course I thought it was the factory plugs and wires with a 180,000 miles on them. It only helped a little bit but the second I replace the sensor it was like a brand new car.
I did make a follow up video that I've mentioned a few times in the description and other comments. With Dodge's I've learned you have to buy genuine dodge sensors and not ones from a normal auto parts store. Hope this helps🤙🏼
After replacing did the misfires go away or did you replace your spark plugs I’m just wondering because I’m getting the code for the sensor and misfires but I only got 7,000 on the engine but Im sure I reused that sensor from my previous block
I keep getting a rough idle and a hard start after I replaced the sensor the harness and the pcm any suggestions or should I try to replace the sensor again?
Yep, the sensor might be a different part number but it's in the she location. Make sure to buy oem sensors though otherwise you'll be back in there again in about a month
I made a follow up video. Any kind of sensor needs to be purchased from a dealership. Mopar's computers have a hard time communicating with aftermarket sensors for some reason
It's just for demonstration purposes. The check engine light stayed off after I continued driving it as well. If you have any questions about the video just let me know!
If you have already disconnected the battery to reset the computer it could be something as simple as spark plugs and coil packs to injectors and fueling issues
You can get back in the car but it’s a beeeeaaaaarrr. I’m really tall, and that might have made it doable, even if I looked like a contortionist going into the back seat, reaching over the folded up load floor, plus the floor to the spare tire/ battery well, then reaching down and at least letting the connector touch the battery. Not fun, but I’ve done it many times. One time it was raining but o had the font if the car in the garage, so I closed the hatch. Whoops. If the lower floor has fallen back down your in more trouble. You’ll need to find something to reach down and hook the edge of it to pull it back up, then use a bungee or the like to hold it in place. Not fun. Maybe if you have your grandmother’s “reacher” that is used for grabbing that seldom used can of whatever from the top shelf you can maybe use that to put the battery cable back on. Again it doesn’t have to be properly on the post, as long as it’s touching, and you’ll know because your interior lights will come on. Also, for the record, it’s not like you’d be trapped in the back of the car if the battery were dead. I needed the rear bumper cover from a junkyard Magnum (found a clean black one to match my car-just needed a little touch up- I think LKQ charged like $35.00- better than $350 plus a $200 repaint for the suckers), and to remove it the hatch has to be open. I dove in the back only to realize I would need a screwdriver. I honestly forgot how, because it seems like I had to pry the inner plastic hatch panel up a bit, and then, similar to the old school trunk release, there’s a part you press or pry or twist, and bam! It’s open! Sorry I don’t remember exactly as it was not my main goal, and it was scorching hot, plus the Ebola and Monkey pox I was bound to acquire, and they were calling for the yard to be closed in about 5 minutes less than the time I needed to remove the bumper cover, soooo, stress, sweat, salt in the eyes, and laying face down in someone else’s old shitty junk made me a bit desperate. Got the bumper cover, went to touch it up, and fucked it all up and basically repainted the whole thing, like five times. Never sand a bumper cover without a bunch of firm cushions under it or you’ll be left with the pattern of the underlying support structure showing through, just like rubbing crayons over paper over leaves. That sucked. But I learned a lot. Lesson learned. But, as far as the tailgate being powered, that is bullshit, and there should be a provision for such a scenario, maybe a smaller battery in the hatch and when you disconnect the main one, the smaller one automatically switches on as backup, but that’s something only Mercedes would do to show how well they thought things out for their customers. Wait, these cars ARE a Mercedes! Assholes. They just wanted to get footage of a giant lumbering beast twisted up with his elbow up his ass to reach the battery with his nuts and face turning blue from holding your breath to get into that position. So, don’t do it. But it is doable. I’ve done it like ten times. Sometimes a lesson is learned the hardest way. Just don’t be sleeping back there when the car launches into the river and the power shorts out. You’re dead. Or you could go out one of the back doors, but that seems like a bit of a bother just to survive, don’t it? And a good nap interrupted by a quick dip in the creek isn’t on my fave list. Not to mention all the mud in your Magnum’s crevices. Maggie don’t like to have her crevices poked at. But Martha does. A lot. Maybe too much. Stay in school kids.
@@JesseBusse hey I see you have done Crank Position Sensor but... My Durango was throwing a code for Cam sensor after I replaced it twice someone told me to replace the Crank Sensor too. They only reason I even started playing with these 2 Sensors is because my ETC light kept coming on and only after I changed the throttle body someone suggested I change these 2. The codes I was getting were for the cam sensor but it didn't get rid of the original issue of the ETC light. Any ideas ?
@Rick Carter My ETC light going off and my car dying was the give away for me. My biggest suggestion is to buy your sensors from the dealership. Make sure your connections are tight and undo your battery to reset the computer. Best of luck👍🏼
Your video was spot on....had a little issue getting the yellow connector lock to go up but a small flathead screwdriver pushing upward did the trick...thanks for your efforts....job took about 10 minutes after watching your video....thanks again
Glad I could help🤙🏼
There's been some talk about closing the hatch with the battery disconnected. There is a manual override for the hatch lock behind a plastic rectangle on the inside of the hatch. Use a thin blade to pry the plastic part out and you can reach inside with a finger to open the hatch from the inside.
Yes, having a mechanical backup is pretty much a necessity. Or... just don't close your hatch
Would the red lighting bolt light up with the crankshaft issue?
I think this is one issue.
The other ,
may have something to do with my coolant reservoir. I smell coolant and my coolant level drops to just below a quarter. Having trouble finding the leak.
In these mopars, the lightning bolt is almost always a coolant issue. Google says it's the throttle body but don't listen to that. The mopars will throw the lightning bolt when the engine isn't operating at the proper temp and it'll actually disengage the temp sensor. Check the reservoir and top off your coolant level (run the heater on high while doing this)
If the red lightning bolt is on, it’s the throttle body or the gas pedal on the floor. Hope that helped. Most of the time if you stand it, you can get the code directions to which one to replace.
To start off people in a magnum page suggested replacing the crank sensor that’s why I got to your video… what my car is doing it rough idles while stopped for maybe a minute it’ll die check engine, the lighting bolt and my oil light comes on.. also while I’m driving it’ll try to die on me but keep going I’m getting codes 700, 100 and 730… is this a crank sensor issue? Mine doesn’t crank for a while when I start it but it hesitates a little.. sorry for the long comment
P0700 and P0730 are both showing up as gear ratio issues while P0100 looks like MAF. Probably need to check for and ABS or transmission codes before buying a crank position sensor blindly. Hope this helps
Yeah I needed to see your mat replaced other then recording the actual sensor replacement
Are you saying I didn't show how to replace the sensor? The mat was only like 5 seconds of the video
Does the crankshaft sensor have its own fuse in the fuse box? Asking because I’m having the same issues and I changed the crankshaft sensor and pig tail/Wires. Even after that it’s still showing P0335 and random misfire
Not that i know of but I do recommend getting an OEM sensor as opposed to the standard ignition like I got. This sensor ended up going out after about a month, other than that disconnecting the battery is the only suggestion I have. Let me know if that helps🤙🏼
@@JesseBusse ok I’m going get a new one in the morning. I will get back with you later today to let you know how it goes
Best video I’ve seen
Appreciate the love🤙🏼
Great video thanks ! Helped out a lot
Glad I could help
Hey man i just got a 2006 SRT8 300c and I’ve had the same problems as you stated where after driving it and accelerating it ends up stalling and dying on me did this really fix it for you? Would really appreciate the response thank you🙏🏻🙏🏻
Yep, I mentioned in a later video and in this video's description to buy oem sensors. If you buy aftermarket like standard ignition or masterpro, it'll go out after a week or two. Do it right or do it twice. Hope this helps🤙🏼
@@JesseBusse appreciate it man🙏🏻
Great Job Man!!👍👍
Appreciate the love
I have a 2006 Dodge Charger Rt & I have a blown fuse for my interior lights so I replaced the fuse but now my dome lights stays on n won’t go off??? Any suggestions please respond !!!
Make sure you're light dimmer is turned off
have a durango with the 5.7 , had issues after 3 crank sensors, and months of p0335 circuit., well low and behold it was the connector. 25 dollars for the pig tail and 3 water tight connectors runs like it should. no hard starts. Wish i would of changed the crank connector and the sensor together.
Sorry to hear that. Glad you got it figured out
Were the connector wires damaged? Also are the 3 wires the same or is each wire different?
@@glizokobama_psn wires / circuit were good, but the best way to describe it, the contact tounge lost its spring, and made a erratic/ loose fit on the spades in the sensor (lookup delphi 56 terminals for a visual) the tounge was laying flat/cracked at the fold. The 3 wires are different ,I clipped and crimped ONE wire at a time compared from the latching side of both old connector and new pigtail side by side as not to mess up the original pinout.
Update , had to a shop once after this they found the cam sensor to also be the culprit , they work together I guess. 2 weeks after that the throttle body was wacky, blinky engine light(changed it)I unplugged the egr and capped the evap system at the purge valve and now it's almost trust worthy only died a couple of times in 300 or so miles.,man this vehicle is weird.
@@bloajmj2680 yes they are very weird. I suppose I should try changing the cam sensor and see what happens. My vehicle performance is trash at this point. I’m going to check my crankshaft sensor again as we speak. Even though I replaced it with a new one from auto zone already
On my 300c I have a code for random misfire only and its driving me nuts. Plugs have been replace and gapped right next I'm guessing this sensor might be going out.
Right after I got this car it had the same misfire and hiccuping problem but it sounds like you're having so of course I thought it was the factory plugs and wires with a 180,000 miles on them. It only helped a little bit but the second I replace the sensor it was like a brand new car.
Looking at it from the front, what side was it on?
Passenger
i replaced my sensor was fine then next day back to same problems and engine light again?
I did make a follow up video that I've mentioned a few times in the description and other comments. With Dodge's I've learned you have to buy genuine dodge sensors and not ones from a normal auto parts store. Hope this helps🤙🏼
What codes did you get and were you getting any engine noise from it?
No engine noise, it would just shut off and sputter randomly. P0335, P0300-P0308
Will the crankshaft position sensor cause misfires to happen?
Yes! My car had two or three different misfire codes before I got this replaced
After replacing did the misfires go away or did you replace your spark plugs I’m just wondering because I’m getting the code for the sensor and misfires but I only got 7,000 on the engine but Im sure I reused that sensor from my previous block
@@jaronguerrero8555 yes they went away. Just make sure you disconnect your battery
I keep getting a rough idle and a hard start after I replaced the sensor the harness and the pcm any suggestions or should I try to replace the sensor again?
Make sure you get all sensors from the dealer. Try to get codes cleared and make sure you're disconnecting your battery
Thanks bro
Thank you🤙🏼
Dirt can make the connectors hard to remove - a little WD40 makes them work more smoothly.
Appreciate the advice. Not TOO too much debris gets up there being between the starter and the block but dust does like to settle wherever it can👍🏼
Does this work for 2011 model
Yep, the sensor might be a different part number but it's in the she location. Make sure to buy oem sensors though otherwise you'll be back in there again in about a month
Cool
I’ve alr replaced one and it’s been 3 days and it’s alr gone bad
I made a follow up video. Any kind of sensor needs to be purchased from a dealership. Mopar's computers have a hard time communicating with aftermarket sensors for some reason
@@JesseBusse makes Sence, I got a 2011 charger r/t presuite
@@HnBMurphy yep, OEM only unfortunately
You had no check engine at start up because the battery was unplugged during install
It's just for demonstration purposes. The check engine light stayed off after I continued driving it as well. If you have any questions about the video just let me know!
I changed this and it’s still doing the same thing wonder what else it could be
If you have already disconnected the battery to reset the computer it could be something as simple as spark plugs and coil packs to injectors and fueling issues
You can get back in the car but it’s a beeeeaaaaarrr. I’m really tall, and that might have made it doable, even if I looked like a contortionist going into the back seat, reaching over the folded up load floor, plus the floor to the spare tire/ battery well, then reaching down and at least letting the connector touch the battery. Not fun, but I’ve done it many times. One time it was raining but o had the font if the car in the garage, so I closed the hatch. Whoops. If the lower floor has fallen back down your in more trouble. You’ll need to find something to reach down and hook the edge of it to pull it back up, then use a bungee or the like to hold it in place. Not fun. Maybe if you have your grandmother’s “reacher” that is used for grabbing that seldom used can of whatever from the top shelf you can maybe use that to put the battery cable back on. Again it doesn’t have to be properly on the post, as long as it’s touching, and you’ll know because your interior lights will come on. Also, for the record, it’s not like you’d be trapped in the back of the car if the battery were dead. I needed the rear bumper cover from a junkyard Magnum (found a clean black one to match my car-just needed a little touch up- I think LKQ charged like $35.00- better than $350 plus a $200 repaint for the suckers), and to remove it the hatch has to be open. I dove in the back only to realize I would need a screwdriver. I honestly forgot how, because it seems like I had to pry the inner plastic hatch panel up a bit, and then, similar to the old school trunk release, there’s a part you press or pry or twist, and bam! It’s open! Sorry I don’t remember exactly as it was not my main goal, and it was scorching hot, plus the Ebola and Monkey pox I was bound to acquire, and they were calling for the yard to be closed in about 5 minutes less than the time I needed to remove the bumper cover, soooo, stress, sweat, salt in the eyes, and laying face down in someone else’s old shitty junk made me a bit desperate. Got the bumper cover, went to touch it up, and fucked it all up and basically repainted the whole thing, like five times. Never sand a bumper cover without a bunch of firm cushions under it or you’ll be left with the pattern of the underlying support structure showing through, just like rubbing crayons over paper over leaves. That sucked. But I learned a lot. Lesson learned. But, as far as the tailgate being powered, that is bullshit, and there should be a provision for such a scenario, maybe a smaller battery in the hatch and when you disconnect the main one, the smaller one automatically switches on as backup, but that’s something only Mercedes would do to show how well they thought things out for their customers. Wait, these cars ARE a Mercedes! Assholes. They just wanted to get footage of a giant lumbering beast twisted up with his elbow up his ass to reach the battery with his nuts and face turning blue from holding your breath to get into that position. So, don’t do it. But it is doable. I’ve done it like ten times. Sometimes a lesson is learned the hardest way. Just don’t be sleeping back there when the car launches into the river and the power shorts out. You’re dead. Or you could go out one of the back doors, but that seems like a bit of a bother just to survive, don’t it? And a good nap interrupted by a quick dip in the creek isn’t on my fave list. Not to mention all the mud in your Magnum’s crevices. Maggie don’t like to have her crevices poked at. But Martha does. A lot. Maybe too much. Stay in school kids.
Long story short, just don't close your hatch
@@JesseBusse hey I see you have done Crank Position Sensor but... My Durango was throwing a code for Cam sensor after I replaced it twice someone told me to replace the Crank Sensor too. They only reason I even started playing with these 2 Sensors is because my ETC light kept coming on and only after I changed the throttle body someone suggested I change these 2. The codes I was getting were for the cam sensor but it didn't get rid of the original issue of the ETC light. Any ideas ?
@Rick Carter My ETC light going off and my car dying was the give away for me. My biggest suggestion is to buy your sensors from the dealership. Make sure your connections are tight and undo your battery to reset the computer. Best of luck👍🏼
I have an 04 w p300 code
I had a few different misfire codes
First
🌈🌈