There's very little content showing how to stick earth blocks together as well as how to protect them using eco friendly materials. So, thank you for this one.
@@SustainableLiving Hey! For whatever reason I never seem to get notifications! Deanna and I are in Reno-Sparks, Nevada. Our property is off of Pyramid Highway north of Sparks (Pyramid Lake Mountain Range; 39.3 acres of mountainside).
@@SustainableLiving Not problems other than the typical local building codes and officials seeking unjust compensation and the desire to "run" a project that they hold zero liability for!! LOL!! The system of masonry building has been in place longer than the government departments whom attempt to extort money...same old, same old...
I’m also old and retired, I first used a cinva ram in the mid 1970s, the building looks better now than when 1st built. Before starting I’d looked at buildings over 100 years old in compressed earth. The purists back then all, but one, said no Portland, but I listened to the dissenting voice and used it, I went even further in percentages for blocks on corners, around windows and doors. In later building, after the first, the first thing I did was build the roof, then build the walls up to the roof. I plumbed the roof in, because we are an arid country, without town water, water is our most valuable resource.
Thanks for sharing. So how did your first building hold up? and the second building, did you not use a bond beam? If not, how did that project work out?
Thank you for showing the effects of exposure to the elements! I was wondering if CEBs would last in our tropical climate where it rains a lot during the monsoon months. I guess with sufficient roof coverage and right amount of portland cement, they will last a lifetime.
That's why in Lebanon all houses are made from concrete bricks that have an extra layer in the center unlike the american ones that has only exterior walls . And between each room there is a full concrete columns. But still good and are wayyy better than wood
Thank you for the info. I believe the time has definitely come for earthen structures, especially here in the southwest. Also, I would love to hear your spiritual story.
I'm old and retired but if I had one more house in me I would use stabilized compressed earth block. I still find this very interesting. Would you stick the wire through the foam board and then tie on the stucco wire? Thanks for the information.
Yes I would use the foam board, I really like how it helps with keeping the temperature stable whether it is heating or cooling. By doing this I can control the thermal Mass on what I want for temperature, to hold whether it's cold or hot, instead of the outside dictating to me what temperature the wall should be. We usually like just the opposite what nature gives us.
@@SustainableLiving That's why in Lebanon all houses are made from concrete bricks that have an extra layer in the center unlike the american ones that has only exterior walls . And between each room there is a full concrete columns. But good materiel definitely better than wood
We mixed the dirt by using a tiller on the back of a tractor we would put the Portland on top of the dirt wet the dirt down to the consistency that we needed it to be and then we'll drive over it with a tractor tilling until it being very careful not to till up the under soil that would put more large rocks into our mix. We would do a dry till with th Portland so it would mix evenly then we would add the moisture while tilling, this would typically take 3 passes, making sure the soil doesn't get too wet, if it gets too wet the block will want to rebound and will not hold together, have to get moisture just right.
Hey Bradley Howe, not for sure if you saw my recent post on how to make earth blocks, if you haven't go check it out and I hope it helps you with your questions.
Very helpful. I wonder if I could put drywall on the inside of a block home and if that would cause any problems with the block breathing or heating and cooling etc.
We have interlocking stabilised soil blocks in Uganda and machines for making them. The system has picked up and there are videos on UA-cam. Just check for ISSBs Uganda and Kenya
Thank you for the info I think I bought the same machine from Dan Powell we are fixing to start our build did you use a foundation or rubble trench for foundation
We used a foundation, we dug footings 24 inches by 24 inches wide with five runs of 5/8 rebar through them. The concrete is a lot more money, I would highly recommend this. We calculate that every two feet of wall with a standard 8 foot wall there is one ton of weight. So we were advise to make sure we had a really good footing. I would pass that on to you. Thanks for watching our video and good luck with your build.
You need to read "Ceramic Houses & Earth Architecture" by Nader Khalili. It's about building houses (and other buildings) using earth blocks and then firing them. The blocks do not use cement. The houses are built and then fired. Thus they become a single big brick. It's worth reading if you are going to make buildings out of earth blocks.
yea wow 10% cement and 5% lime that is going to be very strong , i love the fact that in 300+ years these houses are going to be holding strong and if they have a good stucco covering them i can see them lasting over 500 years ,,, not as eye popping as roman or greek or gothic era structures but for small family houses it should be a good representation of many peoples now wanting a simplified life done smartly/efficiently
So the amount of active binding agent is as high as 15% total. I have seen online Rammed Earth mixtures with no clay or silt, and 10% white cement. Now that is concrete!
If you build with a roof overhang and all round veranda, you can skip the portland. You MUST have a stone foundation & damp course though! Paint with limewash.
Nice video. I’m thinking to build either that or rammed earth in jacumba california I have found a pice of land there. But I don’t know where to start. And what about permit? And cost any advise? Thanks
I would first check to see what the local code is whether it's county or city and see if they have any building exceptions for compressed Earth block. If they don't have anything then you may consider approaching them to adopt similar codes. We followed a code from the New Mexico. However once you approach them your cover will be busted and you may end up spending some time to get that worked out. However that may not be a bad thing because it may save lots of money if the project had started and then they force you to tear it down if they did not approve it . I don't know how strict your county is or your city is. I took a Gamble and built without a permit knowing that my County was very lax. The gamble worked out well for us but there are counties here in Arizona that I would not dare do what I did. The good thing is, is that compressed Earth block is in the National Building Code however a lot of counties and building inspectors are not following the current national code or have not adopted such practices as of yet. As to cost of getting a permit it's going to vary depending on your county and the price of homes in that area and the size of your home that your building. Most counties will work with you even if they don't want to adopt the Earth block building codes, they will try to modify to what they think is best for structural soundness. My County suggested to me that they could have worked with me and the block could have been used as a fascia siding on the building. But the problem with that is they have no clue that this product requires massive footings and a concrete Bond beam and is not made to be a decorative peace but rather a structural wall that needs large footings. So there are building learning curves of these county workers that you may have to face, make sure you know your stuff when you go to present yourself to the county or city to get your permit. Hope this helps, good luck, this is truly the unseen challenge of this material but there needs to be more of us blazing this path so others can follow to find more affordable housing. Just a side note there has already been another man in my local community that built a compressed Earth block home after I did and came out and spoke to me and worked with his City and was able to get a plan worked out so there is positive hope. I'd be curious to hear back from you to see what you decide and what works out for you. One final note there are compressed Earth block machines that make blocks that have the hallowed channels in them so you can put rebar through them and attach the footing to the bond beam that may be easier to get a permit if you have one of those machines. The structural engineers really like to have the footings attached to the bond beams of the buildings so it's all one sound unit those type of Earth blocks enable that process to happen. As to rammed Earth or Earth block funny thing is I have another friend that build a rammed Earth home 20 years ago and it took him quite a few years to do it and a lot of painstaking work to do that. I personally would recommend the Earth block just because it's easier to handle and once it's in the wall it's in the wall you don't have to worry about forms and compacting and then reform, it's the same concept but the Earth block you can work it in smaller pieces not the whole wall at once.
@@truckandtea I had a good friend that purchased the block machine from New Mexico, the company was Earthtek, here is a link: www.adobemachine.com/adobeq&a.htm. They have a lot of info, if you haven't come across there stuff I would recommend checking them out too. The machine itself is easy to work with and simple. One does have to figure a way out to mix the dirt, moisture and portland cement, we used a tiller on the back of a tractor to do this. One has to be careful that one only tills the sifted dirt and not the underlayment that could kick up larger aggregate. Over the next 6 months or so I am hoping to use that machine again to do a few projects and I will see if can show this in a video.
Good video, interesting to see how they've held up over years. but keep in mind people aren't going to make these to keep them on a pallet or unexposed. A lot of people are making exterior retaining walls etc out of rammed earth, so can't really get them under cover. Wondering if you treated these with a water proofing agent?
The blocks in this video were not treated with anything. On the house we used linseed oil for the first two years and I was not impressed so we ended up stuccoing the house to water proof our walls.
Normally you build a cap on top and add some kind of facing (stucco, brick veneer, etc) to protect the blocks from weather. From what I have read in the american building code (named the IBC) for earth based walls a concrete capping beam is required to be poured on top of the earthen/Adobe walls in houses and residential structures. It is standard practice to add concrete caps to most types of concrete block walls too from what I have seen. I am pretty sure you could use a wood deck clear coat to waterproof the sides of the blocks if you wanted that natural earth look though. I have not tried it myself though.
In my country, where wood construction is pretty much non existent! On new buildings that's the usual approach. Double brick walls with insulation in between. Plus an air chamber (gap). From the inside would be something like this: Plaster or gypsum boards, brick (11cm), insulation (5~15cm), air gap (5cm), brick (15~25cm), finishing layers, paint... Usually the real challenge, in terms of thermal bridge, is the reinforced concrete structure. That's subject to quite rigid "seismic" code. Meaning that not even a "shack" can be built without a reinforced concrete structure! Upgrade of existing constructions vary between inside or outside insulation.
Great video! Since you mentioned the weaker and the stronger aspect of the CEB and your spirituality, i thought it fitting to share what i see btw i knew nothing about the term marrying the bricks although it is obvious and fitting. The bible calls the aspects of masculine or the man as the strong and the weak is the feminine or the woman and when you mentioned about the marrying of the bricks all of that was very interesting how you marry the bricks connecting the weak with the strong , the man with the woman. And then at the end you divorced the bricks by tearing them apart from one another. Marriage is a house built line upon line precept upon precept , Christ in you the hope of glory! just like a baby formed in the womb so is a house brick line upon brick line , brick upon brick formed in the matrix ( womb in latin). Matrix =( life within ) the dome / womb. Love to here your testimony! Blessings!
what was the cement to soil ratio? and what machine did you use during compression? there are houses that have used compressed blocks for decades.. and still look new, again the type of soil matters, if you used top organic matter, expect that... it is advisable not to use top soil.
I ended up using the dirt from my footings the dimensions of my footings were 24in by 24in in depth and width. I also use the Gannon on a tractor in which I scraped more material up out of my backyard. Just a rough guess but I would say I had at least a hundred yards or more of material that I sifted and processed to make block. I did have two interior walls made out of Earth block that added to the increase of my blocks that I needed. Most houses will only have exterior walls and not interior walls. So that means fewer blocks for a traditional house. And not as much material. Hope this helps, I have some raw video that I will soon make a video about how I made my block and you will see that there is a lot of shovel work when mixing Portland into your material. So not a lot of digging per se the dirt up but digging in the sense of mixing dirt, one will understand what I'm trying to say once I get this video out, stay tuned.
We took a grinder and channeled out a 3 inch groove and ran the wire through that, then covered it up with mud. No conduit, I am not worried about putting a nail through the wire, the block is too hard to hang pictures, I use a heavy fishing line to hang pictures from the trim.
Am introduction interlocking mud bricks in my country in middle east "Jordan" My only concern is the thermal efficiency in cold weather. how wide r your walls Thanks
I liked that you showed how strong the bond was with the slurry and what you would do different with the adding of the wire. For your stucco did you use a lime based stucco? Or cement based? Thanks in advance
@@kjlahti782 no we did not. We used pressure treated lumber in the openings for the windows and door frames. We put these frames in place once the blocks were high enough and laid the blocks to the formed windows and doors then nailed the lumber to the block with galvanized nails. Windows and doors we hung normal standards at that point. Hope this helps.
Great job! My house recently burned down(I live outside of Phoenix) and I've been looking for a way to replace it. I don't know if in Maricopa you'd be able to get a permit to build. Would like to hear more about what happened to guide you to build with CEB.
Sorry to hear that, in the next month or so I will do a video sit down and talk more about our journey and why we chose CEB and how it worked out for us.
I'm in Maricopa County also. I'm making my blocks soon and haven't gotten to the permit stage yet. I do know they have a division that deals with alternate build material, so that gives me hope. It would be nice to have someone I know that is doing the same thing.
We made this slurry mixture from the same material that we made the blocks out of we simply sifted the material through aluminum window screening material. So our material had clay and sand and probably it a small element of silt in it. Hope this helps
@@SustainableLiving You mentioned how one side was stronger than the other because of the hydraulic pressure. I was just curious if pressure was exerted on both sides if it would be a stronger brick overall.
@@sleepinggiant882 Okay, now I am following your questions. Yes, I believe the block would be stronger. Grant it I am not an engineer to show numbers to certify this. When building my house we definitely discussed this concept of pressing from both ends, in theory it seems like a very rational argument to make a stronger block. I do not know if such a machine exists, I would be curious if you know of such a machine or if anyone else who reads this post could further direct a link to such a machine. I think this would be very helpful with this type of building material. Thanks for your question.
Which machines produced these blocks and can you advise any machine that gives a compression force of 1500psi with 500 blocks per hour with reasonable budget
As to the machines to meet your specifications I would recommend checking out the company that made the machine I used here is their link: www.adobemachine.com/
Yeah that's what I tell people. Crazy thing is I did not realize that when I got into this, that the traditional stick built home is around 70-80 years of life expectancy to major renovation. I would believe in some cases this may be less depending on the care steward of the property too. Stone and mason buildings go forever but this practice was fazed out after WWII due to the high need of housing, so the traditional home we now see build was born. I am fascinated with that home building history. Thanks for watching.
I guess I don't understand the mechanics of sticking each course together with just mud. ? I get that within a couple of minutes those are stuck together, but how does that work over time? "It's just mud, not cement." I believe it works mind you, I just don't have the mental picture. What about over time and that gets all dry? Anyway, anyone with experience or a stonemason can explain to a simple guy how plain mud is actually viable as mortar?
I used to work for Advanced Earthen Construction Technologies for around 12 years. They built CEB machines such as the MC3500, and Impact 2001A. Imagine stacking 2 wet bars of soap in the shower and letting them dry out. The key to thier bond is they are like materials, and that the moisture from the thin slurry style mortar drys by moisture being wicked into the blocks from the joint. Also to achieve a good headjoint, you set the block a few inches away from the adjacent block, and slide into it to cause the slurry to be skid vertically up the head joint. That eill achieve the bottom portion if the headjoint. The top is achieved through the application of the mortar for the next layer of blocks. Also its good to leave the joints exposed on the exterior so that you can have a better surface to apply a scratch and precoat for later applying the lime plaster exterior with a natural latex finish for a breathable sealant. It can be made from nopales that are fermented for their latex. Also side press machines are inferior to top press machines. AECT machines are superior because of its patented elastic press plate. Best bet, stabilize high sand soil with cement. Stabilize clay soils with lime. Only stabilize first 2 courses. Next courses are natural. Pour concrete bond beam or lumber bond beam to join the roof. Do not insulate blocks. They ar thermally loaded and work with moisture transfer. Use chicken wire on the outside, put a botton galvanuzed edging to catchnthe bottom edge of stucco. Lime plaster walls with natural latex additive. It becomes a seal that is still breathable.
Under a 1/4 inch is what we went for, it is almost impossible yo get out all organics, as with all building projects there is always variances, we just tried really hard to keep them to a minimum
For Ukraine ... Could you maybe edit this a bit using the type of soils found in Ukraine? With how to smash broken concrete (from bombings) into gravel? Any other ideas you have. Then tag it: Ukraine Spread the word thru the self help community. Nothing electric or fueled. Thanks!
This is amazing. The fact it uses so little cement is rather revolutionary.
Well the fact that it doesn’t need Portland cement at all is truly the amazing part
There's very little content showing how to stick earth blocks together as well as how to protect them using eco friendly materials. So, thank you for this one.
Thank You for your feed back.
Just a solid example of post weathering 5% vs 10% over 4 years was worth the subscribe button.
Thanks for watching our video
You are the ONLY guy on the internet that has full videos with compressed block information. Good job!!!!
thanks for your support
Great information. Thank you very much!
❤good wishes for you and your day...stay healthy....love mother earth ❤..save water ...grow trees🌲🌲
This was an excellent video.
Thank you very much for your videos and good luck with your next projects!!
My wife and I have a Hydraform ExM7 block machine...looking forward to getting the house going!
Where are you guys building at, what state?
Just curious if you are having any issues with this method of building
@@SustainableLiving Hey! For whatever reason I never seem to get notifications! Deanna and I are in Reno-Sparks, Nevada. Our property is off of Pyramid Highway north of Sparks (Pyramid Lake Mountain Range; 39.3 acres of mountainside).
@@SustainableLiving Not problems other than the typical local building codes and officials seeking unjust compensation and the desire to "run" a project that they hold zero liability for!! LOL!! The system of masonry building has been in place longer than the government departments whom attempt to extort money...same old, same old...
Thank you for sharing. Terrific content.
Glad you enjoyed it!
Great job, environmentally friendly and healthy, cool in summer and warm in winter, don't stop keep animal barn.
Very informative, great work! I’ll be looking for the video of the completed house.
Nice presentation!
I’m also old and retired, I first used a cinva ram in the mid 1970s, the building looks better now than when 1st built. Before starting I’d looked at buildings over 100 years old in compressed earth. The purists back then all, but one, said no Portland, but I listened to the dissenting voice and used it, I went even further in percentages for blocks on corners, around windows and doors. In later building, after the first, the first thing I did was build the roof, then build the walls up to the roof. I plumbed the roof in, because we are an arid country, without town water, water is our most valuable resource.
Thanks for sharing. So how did your first building hold up? and the second building, did you not use a bond beam? If not, how did that project work out?
I like your videos very well done I think it would be awesome if you shared your faith with everybody 🙏
Really good video and details
Thank you for showing the effects of exposure to the elements! I was wondering if CEBs would last in our tropical climate where it rains a lot during the monsoon months.
I guess with sufficient roof coverage and right amount of portland cement, they will last a lifetime.
Liked it so much. Looking for the actual block making part
its coming
That's why in Lebanon all houses are made from concrete bricks that have an extra layer in the center unlike the american ones that has only exterior walls . And between each room there is a full concrete columns. But still good and are wayyy better than wood
It's nice to see how blocks weather, since i am interested in how it might stand up in upstate NY.
Thank you for the info. I believe the time has definitely come for earthen structures, especially here in the southwest. Also, I would love to hear your spiritual story.
I'm old and retired but if I had one more house in me I would use stabilized compressed earth block. I still find this very interesting. Would you stick the wire through the foam board and then tie on the stucco wire? Thanks for the information.
Yes I would use the foam board, I really like how it helps with keeping the temperature stable whether it is heating or cooling. By doing this I can control the thermal Mass on what I want for temperature, to hold whether it's cold or hot, instead of the outside dictating to me what temperature the wall should be. We usually like just the opposite what nature gives us.
What region of az are you in? I live in carefree but was looking around casa grande for location to build
@@jonathanmiller2441 Northern AZ,
@@SustainableLiving That's why in Lebanon all houses are made from concrete bricks that have an extra layer in the center unlike the american ones that has only exterior walls . And between each room there is a full concrete columns. But good materiel definitely better than wood
@@SustainableLiving I wonder what thickness of foam board to use. I used two 2" inch sheets under my cabin which made the floor nice and warm.
i just want to know how to mix to make the block i have been trying to get but can't see how
We mixed the dirt by using a tiller on the back of a tractor we would put the Portland on top of the dirt wet the dirt down to the consistency that we needed it to be and then we'll drive over it with a tractor tilling until it being very careful not to till up the under soil that would put more large rocks into our mix. We would do a dry till with th Portland so it would mix evenly then we would add the moisture while tilling, this would typically take 3 passes, making sure the soil doesn't get too wet, if it gets too wet the block will want to rebound and will not hold together, have to get moisture just right.
Hey Bradley Howe, not for sure if you saw my recent post on how to make earth blocks, if you haven't go check it out and I hope it helps you with your questions.
Very helpful. I wonder if I could put drywall on the inside of a block home and if that would cause any problems with the block breathing or heating and cooling etc.
What part of AZ are you in if I may ask? I am considering building with compressed earth. Thank you, really appreciate your videos 🙏
We need this in Uganda to make affordable, eco-friendly housing
We have interlocking stabilised soil blocks in Uganda and machines for making them. The system has picked up and there are videos on UA-cam. Just check for ISSBs Uganda and Kenya
Problem is ugandan or Kenyan machines hv a poor finish. Which kills the esthetics
Nice video,what block recipe mix did you use? Clay,sand Portland ratio?
Thank you for this video. What is the size of your block?
Thank you for the info I think I bought the same machine from Dan Powell we are fixing to start our build did you use a foundation or rubble trench for foundation
We used a foundation, we dug footings 24 inches by 24 inches wide with five runs of 5/8 rebar through them. The concrete is a lot more money, I would highly recommend this. We calculate that every two feet of wall with a standard 8 foot wall there is one ton of weight. So we were advise to make sure we had a really good footing. I would pass that on to you. Thanks for watching our video and good luck with your build.
You need to read "Ceramic Houses & Earth Architecture" by Nader Khalili. It's about building houses (and other buildings) using earth blocks and then firing them. The blocks do not use cement. The houses are built and then fired. Thus they become a single big brick. It's worth reading if you are going to make buildings out of earth blocks.
In India researches have proved that the best compressed earth blocks are made with soil,sand,Portland cement and lime in the ratio of 40,45,10 ang 5.
yea wow 10% cement and 5% lime that is going to be very strong , i love the fact that in 300+ years these houses are going to be holding strong and if they have a good stucco covering them i can see them lasting over 500 years ,,, not as eye popping as roman or greek or gothic era structures but for small family houses it should be a good representation of many peoples now wanting a simplified life done smartly/efficiently
So the amount of active binding agent is as high as 15% total. I have seen online Rammed Earth mixtures with no clay or silt, and 10% white cement. Now that is concrete!
If you build with a roof overhang and all round veranda, you can skip the portland. You MUST have a stone foundation & damp course though! Paint with limewash.
Nice video. I’m thinking to build either that or rammed earth in jacumba california I have found a pice of land there. But I don’t know where to start. And what about permit? And cost any advise? Thanks
I would first check to see what the local code is whether it's county or city and see if they have any building exceptions for compressed Earth block. If they don't have anything then you may consider approaching them to adopt similar codes. We followed a code from the New Mexico. However once you approach them your cover will be busted and you may end up spending some time to get that worked out. However that may not be a bad thing because it may save lots of money if the project had started and then they force you to tear it down if they did not approve it . I don't know how strict your county is or your city is. I took a Gamble and built without a permit knowing that my County was very lax. The gamble worked out well for us but there are counties here in Arizona that I would not dare do what I did. The good thing is, is that compressed Earth block is in the National Building Code however a lot of counties and building inspectors are not following the current national code or have not adopted such practices as of yet. As to cost of getting a permit it's going to vary depending on your county and the price of homes in that area and the size of your home that your building. Most counties will work with you even if they don't want to adopt the Earth block building codes, they will try to modify to what they think is best for structural soundness. My County suggested to me that they could have worked with me and the block could have been used as a fascia siding on the building. But the problem with that is they have no clue that this product requires massive footings and a concrete Bond beam and is not made to be a decorative peace but rather a structural wall that needs large footings. So there are building learning curves of these county workers that you may have to face, make sure you know your stuff when you go to present yourself to the county or city to get your permit. Hope this helps, good luck, this is truly the unseen challenge of this material but there needs to be more of us blazing this path so others can follow to find more affordable housing. Just a side note there has already been another man in my local community that built a compressed Earth block home after I did and came out and spoke to me and worked with his City and was able to get a plan worked out so there is positive hope. I'd be curious to hear back from you to see what you decide and what works out for you. One final note there are compressed Earth block machines that make blocks that have the hallowed channels in them so you can put rebar through them and attach the footing to the bond beam that may be easier to get a permit if you have one of those machines. The structural engineers really like to have the footings attached to the bond beams of the buildings so it's all one sound unit those type of Earth blocks enable that process to happen. As to rammed Earth or Earth block funny thing is I have another friend that build a rammed Earth home 20 years ago and it took him quite a few years to do it and a lot of painstaking work to do that. I personally would recommend the Earth block just because it's easier to handle and once it's in the wall it's in the wall you don't have to worry about forms and compacting and then reform, it's the same concept but the Earth block you can work it in smaller pieces not the whole wall at once.
@@SustainableLiving appreciate your replay sir. grate advice god bless, ill do that :)
Sustainable Living one more question. Where u got your earth block press. Is it easy to work with?
@@truckandtea I had a good friend that purchased the block machine from New Mexico, the company was Earthtek, here is a link:
www.adobemachine.com/adobeq&a.htm.
They have a lot of info, if you haven't come across there stuff I would recommend checking them out too.
The machine itself is easy to work with and simple. One does have to figure a way out to mix the dirt, moisture and portland cement, we used a tiller on the back of a tractor to do this. One has to be careful that one only tills the sifted dirt and not the underlayment that could kick up larger aggregate.
Over the next 6 months or so I am hoping to use that machine again to do a few projects and I will see if can show this in a video.
10% cement by weight or volume?
Great video!
How well does this type of build work in colder climates?
Good video, interesting to see how they've held up over years. but keep in mind people aren't going to make these to keep them on a pallet or unexposed. A lot of people are making exterior retaining walls etc out of rammed earth, so can't really get them under cover. Wondering if you treated these with a water proofing agent?
The blocks in this video were not treated with anything. On the house we used linseed oil for the first two years and I was not impressed so we ended up stuccoing the house to water proof our walls.
Normally you build a cap on top and add some kind of facing (stucco, brick veneer, etc) to protect the blocks from weather. From what I have read in the american building code (named the IBC) for earth based walls a concrete capping beam is required to be poured on top of the earthen/Adobe walls in houses and residential structures. It is standard practice to add concrete caps to most types of concrete block walls too from what I have seen. I am pretty sure you could use a wood deck clear coat to waterproof the sides of the blocks if you wanted that natural earth look though. I have not tried it myself though.
it would be nice to be able to put the sheet of foam in-between the layers of block so you can see the rustic block from both inside and outside
In my country, where wood construction is pretty much non existent! On new buildings that's the usual approach. Double brick walls with insulation in between. Plus an air chamber (gap).
From the inside would be something like this:
Plaster or gypsum boards, brick (11cm), insulation (5~15cm), air gap (5cm), brick (15~25cm), finishing layers, paint...
Usually the real challenge, in terms of thermal bridge, is the reinforced concrete structure. That's subject to quite rigid "seismic" code. Meaning that not even a "shack" can be built without a reinforced concrete structure!
Upgrade of existing constructions vary between inside or outside insulation.
@@crpth1 thanks for the information
Has anyone considered the possibility of using a drying oil instead of water for the liquid? It would be naturally waterproof after drying
Great video! Since you mentioned the weaker and the stronger aspect of the CEB and your spirituality, i thought it fitting to share what i see btw i knew nothing about the term marrying the bricks although it is obvious and fitting.
The bible calls the aspects of masculine or the man as the strong and the weak is the feminine or the woman and when you mentioned about the marrying of the bricks all of that was very interesting how you marry the bricks connecting the weak with the strong , the man with the woman. And then at the end you divorced the bricks by tearing them apart from one another.
Marriage is a house built line upon line precept upon precept , Christ in you the hope of glory! just like a baby formed in the womb so is a house brick line upon brick line , brick upon brick formed in the matrix ( womb in latin).
Matrix =( life within ) the dome / womb.
Love to here your testimony!
Blessings!
10:40 Sand counts as a fine aggregate. Gravel is a coarse aggregate
what was the cement to soil ratio? and what machine did you use during compression? there are houses that have used compressed blocks for decades.. and still look new, again the type of soil matters, if you used top organic matter, expect that... it is advisable not to use top soil.
Very interesting way to build.what are the dimensions of the blocks?
they are 12 inches in width, and the machine can make them any where from 3 inches up to 9 inches in length.
Enjoyed this video. How much digging was required (area and depth, etc). Thanks.
I ended up using the dirt from my footings the dimensions of my footings were 24in by 24in in depth and width. I also use the Gannon on a tractor in which I scraped more material up out of my backyard. Just a rough guess but I would say I had at least a hundred yards or more of material that I sifted and processed to make block. I did have two interior walls made out of Earth block that added to the increase of my blocks that I needed. Most houses will only have exterior walls and not interior walls. So that means fewer blocks for a traditional house. And not as much material. Hope this helps, I have some raw video that I will soon make a video about how I made my block and you will see that there is a lot of shovel work when mixing Portland into your material. So not a lot of digging per se the dirt up but digging in the sense of mixing dirt, one will understand what I'm trying to say once I get this video out, stay tuned.
@@SustainableLiving This is very useful. I look forward to your video on this. Thanks.
Can you also share concerning mixture: ingredients used, did you eye it, measure it, etc.?
Can un-stablised compressed earth blocks be fired?
What is the percentage ratio of water to soil in un-stablised compressed earth blocks?
can one crush up those crumbled blocks and press new once?
Another thing to add would be flyash? 5%?
Yep 5-15% flyash, lime, or cement
I want to use these to make a house. What part of AZ are you in? I'm over in the white mountains.
Did you chop the block for electricity conduits?
We took a grinder and channeled out a 3 inch groove and ran the wire through that, then covered it up with mud. No conduit, I am not worried about putting a nail through the wire, the block is too hard to hang pictures, I use a heavy fishing line to hang pictures from the trim.
Interested
Thanks, my wife and I will be discussing how we want to present our story.
Am introduction interlocking mud bricks in my country in middle east "Jordan"
My only concern is the thermal efficiency in cold weather.
how wide r your walls
Thanks
12 inches
What kind of block press did you use to make your compressed earth blocks?
Best is anything from AECT. Advanced Earthen Construction Technologies.
I liked that you showed how strong the bond was with the slurry and what you would do different with the adding of the wire. For your stucco did you use a lime based stucco? Or cement based? Thanks in advance
We went with a cement base, that is what was ready available, I would have preferred lime base though.
Ah thank you! Did you shoot any video of your installing a window and/or door into the earth block?
@@kjlahti782 no we did not. We used pressure treated lumber in the openings for the windows and door frames. We put these frames in place once the blocks were high enough and laid the blocks to the formed windows and doors then nailed the lumber to the block with galvanized nails. Windows and doors we hung normal standards at that point. Hope this helps.
Thanks for all the information! I hope all is going well with you?
Sir can this block be used in making cyclone resilient shelters.
From my understanding these blocks do very well under high wind.
Great job! My house recently burned down(I live outside of Phoenix) and I've been looking for a way to replace it. I don't know if in Maricopa you'd be able to get a permit to build. Would like to hear more about what happened to guide you to build with CEB.
Sorry to hear that, in the next month or so I will do a video sit down and talk more about our journey and why we chose CEB and how it worked out for us.
I'm in Maricopa County also. I'm making my blocks soon and haven't gotten to the permit stage yet. I do know they have a division that deals with alternate build material, so that gives me hope. It would be nice to have someone I know that is doing the same thing.
What is the slurry made from? Silt? Clay? A mixture?
We made this slurry mixture from the same material that we made the blocks out of we simply sifted the material through aluminum window screening material. So our material had clay and sand and probably it a small element of silt in it. Hope this helps
Rammed Earth has a mixture of 50% sand, 20% gravel, 15% clay, 15% silt
What about 20% Portland?
What if both sides were hydrologic? Would it be stronger overall?
What do you mean by both sides being hydrologic?
@@SustainableLiving You mentioned how one side was stronger than the other because of the hydraulic pressure. I was just curious if pressure was exerted on both sides if it would be a stronger brick overall.
@@sleepinggiant882 Okay, now I am following your questions. Yes, I believe the block would be stronger. Grant it I am not an engineer to show numbers to certify this. When building my house we definitely discussed this concept of pressing from both ends, in theory it seems like a very rational argument to make a stronger block. I do not know if such a machine exists, I would be curious if you know of such a machine or if anyone else who reads this post could further direct a link to such a machine. I think this would be very helpful with this type of building material. Thanks for your question.
do you know of anywhere you can rent a earth block machine
Sorry I do not.
Call Advanced Earthen Construction Technologies, out of San Antonio texas
Which machines produced these blocks and can you advise any machine that gives a compression force of 1500psi with 500 blocks per hour with reasonable budget
the machine was either a BLM-12-8A2 or BLM-12-8A4
As to the machines to meet your specifications I would recommend checking out the company that made the machine I used here is their link:
www.adobemachine.com/
@@SustainableLiving Thanks for your reply and I got it and already made contact with them. I appreciate your feedback.
@@SustainableLivingNoted with many thanks sir
Looks like the bricks are about a foot wide, right?
That is correct
block machines where to purchase
Earth Tec out of New Mexico is where the machine I used came out of.
Couldn't you add more lime?
Dampen the blocks for longer working time.
In 900 years your going to have to replace it. Lol
Yeah that's what I tell people. Crazy thing is I did not realize that when I got into this, that the traditional stick built home is around 70-80 years of life expectancy to major renovation. I would believe in some cases this may be less depending on the care steward of the property too. Stone and mason buildings go forever but this practice was fazed out after WWII due to the high need of housing, so the traditional home we now see build was born. I am fascinated with that home building history. Thanks for watching.
I guess I don't understand the mechanics of sticking each course together with just mud. ? I get that within a couple of minutes those are stuck together, but how does that work over time? "It's just mud, not cement."
I believe it works mind you, I just don't have the mental picture. What about over time and that gets all dry?
Anyway, anyone with experience or a stonemason can explain to a simple guy how plain mud is actually viable as mortar?
I used to work for Advanced Earthen Construction Technologies for around 12 years. They built CEB machines such as the MC3500, and Impact 2001A. Imagine stacking 2 wet bars of soap in the shower and letting them dry out. The key to thier bond is they are like materials, and that the moisture from the thin slurry style mortar drys by moisture being wicked into the blocks from the joint. Also to achieve a good headjoint, you set the block a few inches away from the adjacent block, and slide into it to cause the slurry to be skid vertically up the head joint. That eill achieve the bottom portion if the headjoint. The top is achieved through the application of the mortar for the next layer of blocks. Also its good to leave the joints exposed on the exterior so that you can have a better surface to apply a scratch and precoat for later applying the lime plaster exterior with a natural latex finish for a breathable sealant. It can be made from nopales that are fermented for their latex. Also side press machines are inferior to top press machines. AECT machines are superior because of its patented elastic press plate. Best bet, stabilize high sand soil with cement. Stabilize clay soils with lime. Only stabilize first 2 courses. Next courses are natural. Pour concrete bond beam or lumber bond beam to join the roof. Do not insulate blocks. They ar thermally loaded and work with moisture transfer. Use chicken wire on the outside, put a botton galvanuzed edging to catchnthe bottom edge of stucco. Lime plaster walls with natural latex additive. It becomes a seal that is still breathable.
its not a fair comparison atleast as seen from the video one group is completely exposed and the other has some cover
its just a water going thru, from the top surface... cover them from rain and they will be the same... 5 or 10 % no difference
It looks like you have rocks and organic material in your bricks. Don't you want to filter all that out?
Under a 1/4 inch is what we went for, it is almost impossible yo get out all organics, as with all building projects there is always variances, we just tried really hard to keep them to a minimum
@@SustainableLiving mine below the farmers till line to insure minimal organic materials.
For Ukraine ...
Could you maybe edit this a bit using the type of soils found in Ukraine? With how to smash broken concrete (from bombings) into gravel? Any other ideas you have.
Then tag it: Ukraine
Spread the word thru the self help community. Nothing electric or fueled.
Thanks!