I really think it's great that you take care of business like you do. Totally fearless. I can't honestly criticize you. I mean you're doing it...I'm just watching. But when you spun that injector into the new head with an impact gun, then grabbed the old studs with a couple of vise grips and then reused them, it made the hair on the back of my neck stand up on end. And, of course, everything ended up working out fine. Perfect is the enemy of good. You're channel is proof and i'm glad you share this stuff. Helps me to be more confident I can handle fixing my stuff.
Bush techs are the most valuable commodity ever... they take the least and produce tremendous results!! In this situation our friend “Camerata” here (spell ck. On that name Andrew) is not only ambitious enough to fix something when it breaks his tenacity to complete the job only exceeds! I know there are plenty of jokes about that ‘80’s show McGuyver and frankly a lot of those staged situations were kind of hokey.. but when you are faced with an issue, you use what’s in your means to come up with the best results... of Note Andrew... there is never any reasonable excuse to use an adjustable wrench when tightening hardware... however that being said there are a million other uses for it maybe not first imagined by its inventor and for sake of your own skills and achievements I’m gonna have to keep my heartfelt opinions to myself!!
Hi Andrew, I'd like to offer you one piece of advice from somebody who routinely works on engines; I would avoid using the wire wheel on the grinder, to clean the head gasket surface. Yes its fast and efficient, but those wires have a habit of getting loose! If one of these ends up in an oil passage, it could inflict MAYOR damage to your engine. All due to a small piece of wire. So it's false economy trying to save a bit of time doing it that way. I'd recommend a gasket scraper. And I would also plug all the oil passages before you do it, so that as little dirt as possible can drop into the cases.
I agree with above , never ever use a wire wheel on a block , what’s worse that getting it in an oil passage is a small piece gets down between the piston and cylinder , been there done that, cost us a few thousand bucks
I use a 3M 2 inch abrasive organic pad on a right angle air grinder. www.ebay.com/itm/20-2-inch-3m-roloc-course-sanding-pads/192679508527?hash=item2cdc97fa2f:g:3uUAAOSwLEtYlQsL
Next episode after Area 51 special "Alright guys... so.. , after the UFO engine rebuild we did... I have these extra parts that weren't really needed... I mean... it runs WAY better without them... I'm not sure why the UFO manufactures don't use better parts, these are junk... anyway... running much better now"
"OK so the warp drive runs good, I'm finished what I was asked to do, so let's go do something else." *ending shot with a go-pro tied to the UFO, reaching the moon in 15 seconds before returning to film a panoramic shot of upstate New York*
Khadijah Brown .....i agree. My wife has always been very supportive of what I do. She will get dinner ready, then an hour later may be in the shop helping pull apart something or build something. She has spent many hours by my side helping.
Good fix Andrew. It sounds like you figured it out. There are tests kits you can use to check for combustion gases in the coolant. Keep that in mind for next time. Its good to see an owner repair their own equipment instead of sending it out
I was looking for a channel in English to try and improve my language. I'm Italian, I'm interested in everything that has to do with mechanics and do it yourself. I found an excellent channel. I'll give you my biggest compliments, keep it up
Good work, Just a tip for the future, Use two machine nuts when removing the intake and exhaust manifold studs, vices grips can disfigure and chew up threads. Put the one nut on then thread the second on tighten both together wrench the bottom nut and the it will come loose. Just another option.
I agree with you on the stud removal method! Also,you should have considered NEW head bolts. The old ones may have stretched beyond their limit,especially since the engine overheated. Please continue,you are doing fine.
@@erictrace That kinda shook me too. I was always taught to start in the middle and work toward the ends alternating sides in a crisscross pattern. I guess he might get away with starting at one end and going to the other since it is a small engine. Time will tell.
@@davidmorse8432 is it really necessary though. I understand the thinking behind it but does it have any real world backing. Just curious because I know there are many rules like this for any number of applications that some like Andrew are either unaware of or dont feel are warranted and seem to get by without them.
@AstronomyToday Yeah..no doubt.. It happened to me.... I was building houses, running my own crew.. Had my shack house and diesel truck paid for... Tool trailers, shed full of quads and dirt bikes........ I told her to make sure she stayed on the pill...... Then one day I ask about the pills and she says. "oh, I've been out for a week now" ??? WHAT BITCH... lol. so she spit out some kids, we've been together for 8 years now.... But I still feel like I got screwed out of my life goals... I was going places.... I had a few lots bought, ready to build my own buildings on... I had 30k cash in my safe... ect. ect. ......... 8 years later.. its all gone.. My kids are great, but I can't say I'm happy about being tricked.
I’m sitting here by myself and found myself saying, “You are the man!” when she finally fired up! I need to do this job on my skid steer, but haven’t taken the time to figure out how to do it. Your contribution to the community has moved me 90% of the way there! Thank you!
True, if you keep bugging the woman they get irritated and want you to stop, when you stop for awhile they text you to see what you are doing and if you don't answer they get mad. Lol
Ok look at the video date she is there helping him...and now years later...where did Andrew go wrong ?...she is gone...They could not work it out sadly it seems...
Great job on that head swap. I always use new head bolts because the stretch in the bolt gets used up over time and will allow a head gasket to fail, and they are inexpensive compared to their importance.
Another thing to watch for on older radiators is core fin separation. The find will deteriorat and heat won't be transferred from the tube to the fin. It usually starts in the corners where dirt and moisture have accumulated.
The cracks on the pre combustion chambers are quite common on indirect diesel injection engines. It's ,most of the time ,not a problem,and you can still use the head,like is,or change them. A straight edge for machinist would be a good investment for you , 100 $ spent on it could save you a lot on your equipment,like the head's cost here. As i know,cast iron heads do not warp that easily as it could be thought,contrary to aluminium ones. I suggest you strongly to protect the cylinders when you use the wire wheel, you can see a lot of debris going in the cylinders,and it's not good. Starting fluid is not good on a 22/1 compression ratio engine : to start up correctly,loosen the injectors steel lines,cranck the engine,when it's squirting out of the lines tighten them. Good work on the machine : ) Cool to watch.
Thank you for the very good advice. Yeah I agree that head is probably fine. I'll keep/try to sell it. I did blow them with air after, but ill try to just use a scraper next time. In the past, that machine usually needed starting fluid to start. Maybe now that its charging properly (it wasn't charging at all before, than I ran a hot wire to the field on the alternator and it was overcharging for a while) it will start without it. Ill let my friend know about that engine too.
Indirect diesel engines need glow plugs to start correctly within the second you cranck it. If not,that mean the valves are not adjusted properly,and it's mostly on cold weather,(you did it)or the compression is very low,or the injectors lines are leaking,or the pump itself leak and needs to prime itself again each time you cranck it.(does it smell diesel around the engine ?) Most of the time it's just the glow plugs wich do not work anymore,or the relay feeding them. The glowplugs consume about 10 to 15 amps each,so you should see 40 to 60 amps being sucked by the common feed wire. You can tell the owner that using starting fluid is a very bad idea,and it's just making things worse by damaging the piston rings and creating huge pressure in the cylinder,and not solving the root problem.
You can't use abrasive discs on engine heads or blocks. You damage the surfaces,and you can cause leaks,specially with multi layers steel head gaskets wich are not as soft as composite material head gaskets,wich can fill up depressions on surfaces. You are supposed to use a scraper and some cloth with a cleaner. abrasive on power tools are a very bad idea,it's asking for troubles. it's done at the dealership to go quick,but it's a wack job.
Wire wheels made of soft steel (mostly galvanised) are softer than cast iron,so it's "ok" on the block or cast iron heads,not on the AL heads. Abrasive wheels on a 80 cm long 6 cylinders diesel AL head with 5/100 of mm of max warpage diagonally is just suicidal with a multi layer steel gasket. wich straight edge did you buy ? What class is it on precision ?
I am dismantling 2 Kubota D1105 engines that had low compression and they had the same cracks in the combustion chamber caps. They both had cracks from the port and I took them to the Kubota dealership and engine rebuilder machine shop. They both said that there is no reason to worry about small cracks in the caps because they in no way affect the integrity of the head itself and they won't crack through to the coolant so you are good to go. Those caps can be removed and pressed back in by a machine shop so you could have just replaced them. Does anyone else have comments about the caps cracking being a problem? I would like to hear your explanation as to why they would be a problem.
Hi Andrew always torque your head down in the correct sequence also taking it off in the correct sequence otherwise you risk warping the head great video
I was always under the impression its a cardinal sin to use a wire brush on your heads, especially as a power attachment... Anyways, I had to rebuild the top end of my ranger here recently... on tightening down the cylinder heads, the manufacturer was real specific on how to do it. I hope this last you awhile. Thanks for sharing.
Andrew, You have 85,000 people tell you not use a wire brush on machined surfaces yet you still have the best videos on UA-cam. I learn from both you and your experts that are helping you grow.
People think running a machine without a thermostat is the right thing to do. The thermostat slows down the flow of water in the engine so the water can absorb heat. I have drilled a small hole in a thermostat as a bypass instead of removing it and this will do the trick to allow flow even if the thermostat is closed. also, do not start on one end of a head tightening the bolts work from the center out bumping up the torque after each pass around the head. I am proud to see a young man that isn't scared to tackle hard jobs and learn from his mistakes. keep making great videos. And I also agree on double nuts on the head bolts for removal.
Nice work. Nice find on the voltage reg too. You mention early on there is no thermostat in it. Surprisingly, you might find it maintains temps better with a thermostat - by controlling flow will control "linger time" of the coolant in the radiator. The longer the coolant lingers in the radiator, the cooler it gets.
if you ever need to cold start a tired diesel, use a peice of burning cardboard to load hot air into the intake ( I have used a hot air gun too) works especially well in snowy conditions.
Andrew is the real deal, I've seen it time after time. When fixing something he'll say, well we need a new this or need that then the next clip he actually has it. I'd rather fix than toss out and get new.
Hey man a couple of things you should learn is not to use pliers or vice grips on threads. Instead use the 2 nut trick. Also when tightening nuts or bolts when a gasket is involved (especially a head gasket) always tighten in sequence in to out. Middle fasteners and work your way out never go from one end to another. Otherwise very impressive you're really a jack of all trades you impress me with every video. Hats off to you man.
you used 2 vise grips to pull studs, try 2 nuts, jam them together then unscrew the bottom 1 or both together with your impact if it fits socket. You don't mess up threads that way.
Talk about trouble shooting and going through every possible problem area and following through.To come up with the possible problems of over heating! Thank you for making and sharing this video! Saving untold $1000.00 .Can you imagine a dealer going through all those system's and what the cost would have been in man hrs. & parts!Glad you able to come up with a solution! Hook the heater hose back up to allow the antifreeze to circulate through the hole system decrease the heat level! Plus a new cracked head! Head gasket....heat gage...
Andrew how lucky you are..... having all the good toys and on top of all that having a cool lady to help you with the head, and drinking a brew from the bottle, it don't get no better than that.
Always enjoy watching you work and the comments many of your older fans contribute. Thanks. Sort of nice that you could remember where all the parts go.
Hey will you do a video how you got into mechanics ? You know so much about fixing about everything you lay your hands on. Itll be cool to know your history of how things really got started. Thank you !
From watching his videos I'd say he is teaching himself and give bad advise to others unless the alternator is locked up stopping the drive belt .thats not causing a heat problem. And the air fins were like that before the temp.problem.
Andrew, you really wanted to know, and I think your way of maintenance and in this case preventive maintenance is very useful. It motivates me in other fields to use monitoring and be ahead of failure. It could be a silly waste of time, but if critical values (temperature, load) are met, it is clever. How much you do yourself is a question of how much knowledge and time you want to invest - but you have the right mindset to drill down and to think lateral. Wow!
Diesel head designer by trade: cracks in combustion face are due to overheating, usually never the cause unless you crack through to water jacket and start burning coolant. I wouldn't scrap a head immediately for surface cracks if you can find the cause of the over heating. As you stated, I think the coolant misrouting probably starved the head. Another overheating cause could be blocked air filter or injector/timing issues...but the coolant hose is pretty suspect.
hey man love the videos.. especially the pups. i saw you use vice grips on the exaust studs out. we always used to out two nuts back to back on the stud the back out the bottom one and it would bring it all out... the vice grips didnt mess it up it just gives more leverage just food for thought.... either way brother keep it up
Great job on cylinder head Them cracks on the heads very very common It could have ran 10 yrs like that The other problems you found were your problem of running hot Thank u great vid
Spannerheads across the world collectively wince as Andrew ignores the tighten-in-a crossover-pattern-from-the-centre rule... and get annoyed when it runs.
You did well on the repair. From a mechanic since the late 60's, you might want to put the proper thermostat back in it. It will warm up faster and may run cooler. Without a thermostat the coolant can circulate so fast that heat transfer is impeded. So coolant temps stay cool wile cylinder and head temps are hot. You wouldn't dare run a high performance diesel or gas, or a modern computer engine without one. The early idi non turbo engines could do it just like the old chevy 235 six but they were very low output engines. Just something to think about.
"Without a thermostat the coolant can circulate so fast that heat transfer is impeded." Unless there is a shortcut (as it seems like he had one) around the radiator... no, that can not lower the heat transfer. Its the other way around, it increses heat transfer. In serveral ways: It maintains a high temperature difference from radiator to ambient, thus maximum heat transfer. It also results in a higher (=better) heat transfer coefficient from coolant to radiator due to the faster flow (more turbulence, thinner boundary layer).
@@leocurious9919 i have a question. if the coolant moves quickly through the engine, it will draw lots of heat in short time. but when that fluid passes quickly through the radiator, will it have enough time to liberate that heat? i would expect the engine design and radiator design to be complementary. i would expect them to use a coolant with a certain thermal capacity and with a properly calculated rate of flow. or am i missing something?
@@bashisobsolete.pythonismyn6321 Quicker flow = more temperature differential over all of the area. Heat transfert depends on the temperature difference, area and U-value (Thermal transmittance). Only the area is the same when you have faster or slower flow, both the temperature difference as well as the U-value are better with faster flow. Its kinda like blowing on the soup in the spoon instead of just waiting for it to cool down. You can also take it to the extreme: Slow: The coolant is heat up to 120°C and then cools down to 50°C in the radiator. Fast: It heats up to 95°C and cools to 85°C. Not only is it better for the engine (or whatever) to not have such a variable temperture all over the place, the radiator can remove more heat in the latter case. Lets say ambient temperature is 20°C, to calculate the temperature difference in one value (its changing all the time, but we dont want to calculate 1000 times) we have to use the logarithmic mean temperature difference. This is (delta = d = difference): dT_ln = (dT_A - dT_B) / ln (dT_A / dT_B) slow case: 120-20 = 100°C for dT_A and 50-20=40°C for B. Result: dT_ln = 58°C fast case: 95-20=75°C dT_A and 85-20=65°C dT_B. Result: dT_ln = 70°C Lets say U-value stays the same (it would go up): Heat transfer = Area * U-value * dT_ln The fast case has 20% better heat transfer just from the temperature difference alone. The thinner boundary layer would increase the U-value and thus it would be >20%.
Excellent. Andrew ! ..(technical tenacity)...that’s what I’m going to call it ! I going to say it’s your strongest asset. Always going/doing to learn more and expand on what you already know. In your business...hell, in ANY business....that’s a great trait.
Andrew next time you are removing the studs, screw 2 hex nuts tight against each other and put the spanner on the bottom one, it will screw straight out without potential thread damage. Keep up good work.
@@wolfman1549 Maybe not readily available, but common sense says start in middle and rotate outwards, at least, that's been the case on all cyl heads I have ever done.
When my girlfriend was just 16 years old I got her to help me rebuild a 1966 Chevelle SuperSport ... it was cool car 283 V8, turbo glide 2 speed automatic, mag rims, pioneer 8 track etc ... we mostly did body work and had it painted professionally .. when it was done in September I GAVE her the car so she could drive to high school :) ... we go married 2 years later! :) She was ALWAYS there to help me with projects! ... We did everything together, she gave me 4 kids (I still have three at home) but she got sick and died as a young woman, just 40 something ... that was 5 years ago and I miss her every day :(
Andrew, also my 2 cents worth as a diesel mechanic with many years experience. Its a good idea to have those injectors tested at he very least, and change the nozzles. With an overheating issue, that heat transfer surrounds the injector nozzles and discolors and distorts the pintle and nozzle mating surface. Seeing how it started and the heaps of black smoke, I suspect that is why. Dribbling injectors and a poor spray pattern is a diesel engine killer
You do things that some may say is not the right way but you still get the job done and it works when something doesn’t go right your also not afraid to show that, you just keep getting it done ! Thanks for the videos
This man a Jack of all trades and a MASTER of all, impressive man, very impressive indeed, I am impressed, nothing is hard for him. You're an asset man.
Did you use new head bolts? Unless it's a small engine (lawnmower, etc) they usually tell you to replace the head bolts every time the head comes off. At least that's the way it works with car engines, can't imagine a diesel engine for a skid steer is much different in that regard. Head gasket looks like it's the same kind of technology at least (Multi-Layer Steel gasket).
Andrew, I've gotta tell you, when I saw the impact wrench on that engine, I cried!! Please tell me you had, and referred to the Kubota service manual for this head replacement, or at least sought the advice of a mechanic on this. The cup brush on the mini grinder is also a very un-advised way to remove dirt, UNLESS you're doing a total tear down and clean up before reassembly. Now, I did see that others mentioned this too, those folks had good advice. Have you re-torqued the head in the specified tightening pattern since? One last bit of advice from an 'older' guy and a friend, please PLEASE, don't use that damned starting fluid , now unless Kubota says it's O.K. Man, that stuff can kill your engine real quick! Some engines it's o.k., but a lot of engines, NO, NEVER, NO WAY!! Now, If I have a vote here,...keep that 'buddy' around! She adds a certain 'brightness' to your already good videos!
Reg Sparkes I torqued the head. Do you think I should re torque it? I don't want to do it if it's not necessary because the rockers have to be removed to do it.
Yeah I know, re-torquing can be a pain in the butt, however if the Kubota manual or mechanics suggest it, then I guess you have to. Heating and cooling, heating and cooling may change the compression ( clamping force) on the head gasket, and some , if not most, engines need this done. I'm thinking here Andrew that you perhaps you should check with the folks from where you bought the head for their advice on this. I only know that I had to do this enough times on different engines according to their Shop Manuals. I guess by now, you can see that I'm a great believer in these Manuals, they were an important 'tool' in our shop.
great job! I thought I heard you say in the video there is no thermostat in the engine? having the correct thermostat will greatly help the radiator cool the antifreeze and in turn keep the motor running at an optimal running temperature. I may have misunderstood you saying that.
Tip for unscrewing stud bolts. Take a screw and cut it in on one side. The gap allows to press the screw easely together. Screw this onto the stud bolt, you can use pliers to apply pressure to the thread without damaging it.
Yeah there are a lot of people that dont know what they are talking about complimenting him, as if they are worthy of doing any complementing about what they know even LESS about. Humars are strange fucking creatures. Then when you try and give him advice what not to do, they get all hot and bothered as if their golden boy knows best 100% of the time and leaned all he knows from the gods. I like AC because he at least tries and works hard, but a lot of his fanbase are fucking cringy and doing him and the channel a disservice.
If he was presenting this as an instructional video, I would tend to agree with you guys.. but it's just a peek over his shoulder at what he's doing with his own stuff. Plus, this guy routinely shows and admits his mistakes. (He COULD'VE easily edited out the part with the aftermarket head) While you're right that most viewers don't have the skills or tenacity to attempt these jobs, I believe they defend him because he DOES, whether it's by-the-book or not.. I've seen him take advise from more experienced mechanics, there are some in THESE comments.. In all, I just see a guy that's learning as he goes and don't we wish that a larger percentage of 20 or 30-somethings would have the gumption to do the same these days?..
I also enjoy your video's BUT. I think I have it figured out. You actually DON'T speed up your vids. That is your actual speed and occasionally you talk and work very slowly to make us believe that your just like us!!! Great Job. I've got to get an excavator!!!!!
2 things, #1 need to pressure test fluid system with air pump 12-15lbs... Check for leaks. #2 need to flow test radiator's liquid flow by volume... Some could of up stop leak in and the little transfer ports in side radiator are plugged up. As a certified mechanic that would be my guess. And for future note to self, if head gasket is the problem you can test for vaper in the radiator from the combustion or leaking gasket... Just a FYI... COOL the have such good help...
How, better for engine in that it warms up faster, yes Keeps it at operating temperature even in cold conditions, yes Runs cooler than without thermostat..... can't see it myself Always run thermostats myself in all gear although have seen plenty of old gear running without a thermostat, can't see how it makes anything run cooler
Can''t believe there are so many positive comments about this guy. Doesn't use even basic best practice for replacing a cylinder head (which looked like it didn't need replacing)
Helping you prep a cylinder head to go back in an engine is a good start. When they talk, act really interested and smile while making eye contact. ( if that don't work, move the work bench to the bedroom ) You did a nice job and it's back in service making you money. Thanks for the video
ANDREW IF THAT GAL is not your girl friend you need to change that real fast!!! how many gals do you know that can work on engines and not bitch about getting the hands dirty!!?? Old One Legged Joseph T
Hello Andrew LOOKs Like You Found A LADY Thar Is Mechanlcally A VERY RARE FIND ??? WISH I COULD FIND ONE ??? Russ Single From Ann Arbor , MIchigan > Maybe Some Day ???
cringe moment with the vice grips on the stud threads... why not just double nut them and back them out? lol and then the impact on the head studs in no particular order... i wouldnt be surprised if it blows a head gasket out towards the drivers cab
Andrew can fix POS equipment and turn it into something that will work well and serve his objective in the things he does. This is a key to his success since he can fix just about anything put before him. He definitely is not afraid of work and taking on repair projects where others would discard the equipment. Better yet, Andrew got his girl friend to help. She is a keeper.
190 isn't bad for engine temperature. I don't know if you did it or not but getting a few bottles of Prestone cooling system flush and running it through the cooling system with water and then refilling with new coolant has always kept my old trucks running good and prevented any overheating due to gunk in the cooling passages.
Have you ever tried a wheeled excavator? I find them very versatile, and if you have super-single tires you can almost go anywhere. And any plans for a roto-tilt? Greetings from Sweden, great work with the videos!
top tip !!!!!!!!!!!!!!! cover or plug all oil passages in the block and use white grease to seal the pistons to the walls and fill cylinders with many rags or paper towels ... then you can clean the deck and remove all the plugs and towels wipe up most of the grease and then use a pick to get the grease from the cyl wall and piston to remove all debris for a 100% sterile rebuild
I really think it's great that you take care of business like you do. Totally fearless. I can't honestly criticize you. I mean you're doing it...I'm just watching. But when you spun that injector into the new head with an impact gun, then grabbed the old studs with a couple of vise grips and then reused them, it made the hair on the back of my neck stand up on end. And, of course, everything ended up working out fine. Perfect is the enemy of good. You're channel is proof and i'm glad you share this stuff. Helps me to be more confident I can handle fixing my stuff.
did u miss the rethreading die he had or?
Bush techs are the most valuable commodity ever... they take the least and produce tremendous results!! In this situation our friend “Camerata” here (spell ck. On that name Andrew) is not only ambitious enough to fix something when it breaks his tenacity to complete the job only exceeds! I know there are plenty of jokes about that ‘80’s show McGuyver and frankly a lot of those staged situations were kind of hokey.. but when you are faced with an issue, you use what’s in your means to come up with the best results... of Note Andrew... there is never any reasonable excuse to use an adjustable wrench when tightening hardware... however that being said there are a million other uses for it maybe not first imagined by its inventor and for sake of your own skills and achievements I’m gonna have to keep my heartfelt opinions to myself!!
Using a double nut to remove studs eliminated the need for vice grips
Carp614. You summed it up there, he takes the mystique out of everything, shows you can tackle just about everything.
I'm Rick Harrison & this is my pawn shop m
Hi Andrew, I'd like to offer you one piece of advice from somebody who routinely works on engines; I would avoid using the wire wheel on the grinder, to clean the head gasket surface. Yes its fast and efficient, but those wires have a habit of getting loose! If one of these ends up in an oil passage, it could inflict MAYOR damage to your engine. All due to a small piece of wire. So it's false economy trying to save a bit of time doing it that way. I'd recommend a gasket scraper. And I would also plug all the oil passages before you do it, so that as little dirt as possible can drop into the cases.
Ok, good advice, that's just how I have always done that. I did blow it out with air before I assembled it.
I agree with above , never ever use a wire wheel on a block , what’s worse that getting it in an oil passage is a small piece gets down between the piston and cylinder , been there done that, cost us a few thousand bucks
The air wont get the particles that fall to the crank case out.
Had one to end up in the valve seat once. Had to remove the head again just because of one piece of wire stuck between the valve and seat.
I use a 3M 2 inch abrasive organic pad on a right angle air grinder.
www.ebay.com/itm/20-2-inch-3m-roloc-course-sanding-pads/192679508527?hash=item2cdc97fa2f:g:3uUAAOSwLEtYlQsL
After much deliberation, the Scientists at Area 51 have decided to call Andrew in to see if he can get their UFO's flying again.
2 days later on Andrew's channel: Snowplowing on a UFO
Next episode after Area 51 special "Alright guys... so.. , after the UFO engine rebuild we did... I have these extra parts that weren't really needed... I mean... it runs WAY better without them... I'm not sure why the UFO manufactures don't use better parts, these are junk... anyway... running much better now"
I got these after market ufo parts on ebay.
"OK so the warp drive runs good, I'm finished what I was asked to do, so let's go do something else."
*ending shot with a go-pro tied to the UFO, reaching the moon in 15 seconds before returning to film a panoramic shot of upstate New York*
@@ChristianPostier Oh you KNOW it! :-) Great Post!
Just gotta say: I've had temp problems running without a thermostat, also a thermostat helps keep temp constant so a diesel runs better.
9:49 Torque wrench first sightings! Oh how long I’ve waited
my thoughts also. next step he might follow a proper torque sequence. :)
wicked347tfs I still liked his torqued to spec comment, knowing full well he just took it until it felt right.
@@Hallenbeckjm...lol
cuz impact ran out of battery
A woman who will work on an engine with you is a keeper.
My mom spotted the cam lobes during my OM617 valve adjustment. She is a keeper.
That's the truth !!
She to fat
Khadijah Brown .....i agree. My wife has always been very supportive of what I do. She will get dinner ready, then an hour later may be in the shop helping pull apart something or build something. She has spent many hours by my side helping.
@@catsbyondrepair piss off!!!
Good fix Andrew. It sounds like you figured it out. There are tests kits you can use to check for combustion gases in the coolant. Keep that in mind for next time. Its good to see an owner repair their own equipment instead of sending it out
Thanks, yeah ill have to do that next time.
I was looking for a channel in English to try and improve my language. I'm Italian, I'm interested in everything that has to do with mechanics and do it yourself. I found an excellent channel.
I'll give you my biggest compliments, keep it up
Your English is very good. Is this your second language
Good work, Just a tip for the future, Use two machine nuts when removing the intake and exhaust manifold studs, vices grips can disfigure and chew up threads. Put the one nut on then thread the second on tighten both together wrench the bottom nut and the it will come loose. Just another option.
I agree with you on the stud removal method!
Also,you should have considered NEW head bolts. The old ones may have stretched beyond their limit,especially since the engine overheated.
Please continue,you are doing fine.
Andrew where did you get the torque pattern for the head at?
I’m guessing that no torque procedure was followed for refitting of the head.
@@erictrace That kinda shook me too. I was always taught to start in the middle and work toward the ends alternating sides in a crisscross pattern. I guess he might get away with starting at one end and going to the other since it is a small engine. Time will tell.
@@davidmorse8432 is it really necessary though. I understand the thinking behind it but does it have any real world backing. Just curious because I know there are many rules like this for any number of applications that some like Andrew are either unaware of or dont feel are warranted and seem to get by without them.
A woman who will get her hands dirty on an engine is a real unicorn!. Congrats on your good taste in women Andrew, don't let her go!!!
She's long gone.. lol
@AstronomyToday Yeah..no doubt.. It happened to me.... I was building houses, running my own crew.. Had my shack house and diesel truck paid for... Tool trailers, shed full of quads and dirt bikes........ I told her to make sure she stayed on the pill...... Then one day I ask about the pills and she says. "oh, I've been out for a week now" ??? WHAT BITCH... lol. so she spit out some kids, we've been together for 8 years now.... But I still feel like I got screwed out of my life goals... I was going places.... I had a few lots bought, ready to build my own buildings on... I had 30k cash in my safe... ect. ect. ......... 8 years later.. its all gone.. My kids are great, but I can't say I'm happy about being tricked.
@@calholli She was just in the video of him cutting the grass on the island.
AND, she enjoys a nice Belgium-style beer!!
Jesus comments like his are fucking so cringy. Its his sister. Why make assumptions instead of asking? Fucking weird.
Double nut those studs to get them out and install. You will not damage the threads that way.
That's good advice. Ill try to do that next time.
Or buy the tool made for that purpose.
Mike W there made to be taken out with 2 nuts tightened together
That does work, but there is a tool for the purpose. You need to mechanic more or something...
Mike W too bad i dont have the tool nor the need
I’m sitting here by myself and found myself saying, “You are the man!” when she finally fired up! I need to do this job on my skid steer, but haven’t taken the time to figure out how to do it. Your contribution to the community has moved me 90% of the way there! Thank you!
Shit, his lady is out there drinking beer and helping him work on the motor. Where did I go wrong?
True, if you keep bugging the woman they get irritated and want you to stop, when you stop for awhile they text you to see what you are doing and if you don't answer they get mad. Lol
Sam Adams at that
Ok look at the video date she is there helping him...and now years later...where did Andrew go wrong ?...she is gone...They could not work it out sadly it seems...
Great job on that head swap. I always use new head bolts because the stretch in the bolt gets used up over time and will allow a head gasket to fail, and they are inexpensive compared to their importance.
Another thing to watch for on older radiators is core fin separation. The find will deteriorat and heat won't be transferred from the tube to the fin. It usually starts in the corners where dirt and moisture have accumulated.
The cracks on the pre combustion chambers are quite common on indirect diesel injection engines.
It's ,most of the time ,not a problem,and you can still use the head,like is,or change them.
A straight edge for machinist would be a good investment for you , 100 $ spent on it could save you a lot on your equipment,like the head's cost here.
As i know,cast iron heads do not warp that easily as it could be thought,contrary to aluminium ones.
I suggest you strongly to protect the cylinders when you use the wire wheel, you can see a lot of debris going in the cylinders,and it's not good.
Starting fluid is not good on a 22/1 compression ratio engine : to start up correctly,loosen the injectors steel lines,cranck the engine,when it's squirting out of the lines tighten them.
Good work on the machine : )
Cool to watch.
Thank you for the very good advice. Yeah I agree that head is probably fine. I'll keep/try to sell it. I did blow them with air after, but ill try to just use a scraper next time. In the past, that machine usually needed starting fluid to start. Maybe now that its charging properly (it wasn't charging at all before, than I ran a hot wire to the field on the alternator and it was overcharging for a while) it will start without it.
Ill let my friend know about that engine too.
Indirect diesel engines need glow plugs to start correctly within the second you cranck it.
If not,that mean the valves are not adjusted properly,and it's mostly on cold weather,(you did it)or the compression is very low,or the injectors lines are leaking,or the pump itself leak and needs to prime itself again each time you cranck it.(does it smell diesel around the engine ?)
Most of the time it's just the glow plugs wich do not work anymore,or the relay feeding them.
The glowplugs consume about 10 to 15 amps each,so you should see 40 to 60 amps being sucked by the common feed wire.
You can tell the owner that using starting fluid is a very bad idea,and it's just making things worse by damaging the piston rings and creating huge pressure in the cylinder,and not solving the root problem.
You can't use abrasive discs on engine heads or blocks.
You damage the surfaces,and you can cause leaks,specially with multi layers steel head gaskets wich are not as soft as composite material head gaskets,wich can fill up depressions on surfaces.
You are supposed to use a scraper and some cloth with a cleaner.
abrasive on power tools are a very bad idea,it's asking for troubles.
it's done at the dealership to go quick,but it's a wack job.
Wire wheels made of soft steel (mostly galvanised) are softer than cast iron,so it's "ok" on the block or cast iron heads,not on the AL heads.
Abrasive wheels on a 80 cm long 6 cylinders diesel AL head with 5/100 of mm of max warpage diagonally is just suicidal with a multi layer steel gasket.
wich straight edge did you buy ?
What class is it on precision ?
Thank you for the straight edge infos.
I am dismantling 2 Kubota D1105 engines that had low compression and they had the same cracks in the combustion chamber caps.
They both had cracks from the port and I took them to the Kubota dealership and engine rebuilder machine shop. They both said that there is no reason to worry about small cracks in the caps because they in no way affect the integrity of the head itself and they won't crack through to the coolant so you are good to go. Those caps can be removed and pressed back in by a machine shop so you could have just replaced them.
Does anyone else have comments about the caps cracking being a problem? I would like to hear your explanation as to why they would be a problem.
Hi Andrew always torque your head down in the correct sequence also taking it off in the correct sequence otherwise you risk warping the head great video
I was looking for this comment.
@@Porty1119 good , and I would also advise to do the same if your working on a engine 😉
@@mysurlytrucker7510 All my personal diesels are Deutz mine engines with separate heads for each cylinder, but I certainly remember it for others.
@@Porty1119 thats cool
I was always under the impression its a cardinal sin to use a wire brush on your heads, especially as a power attachment...
Anyways, I had to rebuild the top end of my ranger here recently... on tightening down the cylinder heads, the manufacturer was real specific
on how to do it. I hope this last you awhile.
Thanks for sharing.
@AstronomyToday Alright.
Andrew, You have 85,000 people tell you not use a wire brush on machined surfaces yet you still have the best videos on UA-cam. I learn from both you and your experts that are helping you grow.
There’s usually a sequence in tightening the head down. And you’re usually supposed to start from the center and work your way out
when tightening head bolts, stagger, middle, front, back, so head gasket goes down even.
He did... He was just running them in with the impact. He patterned with the torque wrench
@Owen Toal was a mechanic, yes, more than once or twice.
People think running a machine without a thermostat is the right thing to do. The thermostat slows down the flow of water in the engine so the water can absorb heat. I have drilled a small hole in a thermostat as a bypass instead of removing it and this will do the trick to allow flow even if the thermostat is closed. also, do not start on one end of a head tightening the bolts work from the center out bumping up the torque after each pass around the head. I am proud to see a young man that isn't scared to tackle hard jobs and learn from his mistakes. keep making great videos. And I also agree on double nuts on the head bolts for removal.
Nice work. Nice find on the voltage reg too. You mention early on there is no thermostat in it. Surprisingly, you might find it maintains temps better with a thermostat - by controlling flow will control "linger time" of the coolant in the radiator. The longer the coolant lingers in the radiator, the cooler it gets.
Ok, I guess I should try to get a thermostat for it.
that series kubota engine is known for cracking head when ran hot i have done many nice job
i have used only aftermarket heads no problems thair are idi and di heads
never ever either a glow plug kubota a real no no check glow plug system operation go go juice breaks rings and ring lands
if you ever need to cold start a tired diesel, use a peice of burning cardboard to load hot air into the intake ( I have used a hot air gun too) works especially well in snowy conditions.
Get yourself an engine lift. They are not expensive and your back will bless you 30 years from now.
He’ll just use his crane
That was nice of that girl to show you how to do that.
Andrew is the real deal, I've seen it time after time. When fixing something he'll say, well we need a new this or need that then the next clip he actually has it. I'd rather fix than toss out and get new.
Hey man a couple of things you should learn is not to use pliers or vice grips on threads. Instead use the 2 nut trick. Also when tightening nuts or bolts when a gasket is involved (especially a head gasket) always tighten in sequence in to out. Middle fasteners and work your way out never go from one end to another. Otherwise very impressive you're really a jack of all trades you impress me with every video. Hats off to you man.
you used 2 vise grips to pull studs, try 2 nuts, jam them together then unscrew the bottom 1 or both together with your impact if it fits socket. You don't mess up threads that way.
Good advice 👍🏼
You need to get a dye kit for finding cracks, I’ve had to use it on the job and it works and finds the smallest hair line cracks! Works great
Talk about trouble shooting and going through every possible problem area and following through.To come up with the possible problems of over heating! Thank you for making and sharing this video! Saving untold $1000.00 .Can you imagine a dealer going through all those system's and what the cost would have been in man hrs. & parts!Glad you able to come up with a solution! Hook the heater hose back up to allow the antifreeze to circulate through the hole system decrease the heat level! Plus a new cracked head! Head gasket....heat gage...
Andrew how lucky you are..... having all the good toys and on top of all that having a cool lady to help you with the head, and drinking a brew from the bottle, it don't get no better than that.
& she rides a motorcycle. There was one in the shop behind them
@@joes2085 sadly she is gone now...Andrew is alone with just his dogs...
The music made me think this project wasn't going to work 😂
Gotta love a lady that don't mind getting her hands dirty!
She works on engines & drink beer...got you a keeper, Dude!
You do it all! Very hard working and honest man. Not many people out there like you are, thanks
Always enjoy watching you work and the comments many of your older fans contribute. Thanks. Sort of nice that you could remember where all the parts go.
Hey will you do a video how you got into mechanics ? You know so much about fixing about everything you lay your hands on. Itll be cool to know your history of how things really got started. Thank you !
From watching his videos I'd say he is teaching himself and give bad advise to others unless the alternator is locked up stopping the drive belt .thats not causing a heat problem. And the air fins were like that before the temp.problem.
Every magician needs a beautiful assistant.
Andrew, you really wanted to know, and I think your way of maintenance and in this case preventive maintenance is very useful. It motivates me in other fields to use monitoring and be ahead of failure. It could be a silly waste of time, but if critical values (temperature, load) are met, it is clever. How much you do yourself is a question of how much knowledge and time you want to invest - but you have the right mindset to drill down and to think lateral. Wow!
Diesel head designer by trade: cracks in combustion face are due to overheating, usually never the cause unless you crack through to water jacket and start burning coolant. I wouldn't scrap a head immediately for surface cracks if you can find the cause of the over heating. As you stated, I think the coolant misrouting probably starved the head. Another overheating cause could be blocked air filter or injector/timing issues...but the coolant hose is pretty suspect.
hey man love the videos.. especially the pups. i saw you use vice grips on the exaust studs out. we always used to out two nuts back to back on the stud the back out the bottom one and it would bring it all out... the vice grips didnt mess it up it just gives more leverage just food for thought.... either way brother keep it up
Great job on cylinder head
Them cracks on the heads very very common
It could have ran 10 yrs like that
The other problems you found were your problem of running hot
Thank u great vid
Head bolts should always be tighten from the center bolt first and work to the ends of the head in a pattern
Spannerheads across the world collectively wince as Andrew ignores the tighten-in-a crossover-pattern-from-the-centre rule... and get annoyed when it runs.
It looks like he was never taught to do this. Taking off a wheel he goes around in a circle
Sometimes, but not always.
You did well on the repair. From a mechanic since the late 60's, you might want to put the proper thermostat back in it. It will warm up faster and may run cooler. Without a thermostat the coolant can circulate so fast that heat transfer is impeded. So coolant temps stay cool wile cylinder and head temps are hot. You wouldn't dare run a high performance diesel or gas, or a modern computer engine without one. The early idi non turbo engines could do it just like the old chevy 235 six but they were very low output engines. Just something to think about.
"Without a thermostat the coolant can circulate so fast that heat transfer is impeded."
Unless there is a shortcut (as it seems like he had one) around the radiator... no, that can not lower the heat transfer. Its the other way around, it increses heat transfer. In serveral ways: It maintains a high temperature difference from radiator to ambient, thus maximum heat transfer. It also results in a higher (=better) heat transfer coefficient from coolant to radiator due to the faster flow (more turbulence, thinner boundary layer).
@@leocurious9919 i have a question. if the coolant moves quickly through the engine, it will draw lots of heat in short time. but when that fluid passes quickly through the radiator, will it have enough time to liberate that heat? i would expect the engine design and radiator design to be complementary. i would expect them to use a coolant with a certain thermal capacity and with a properly calculated rate of flow. or am i missing something?
@@bashisobsolete.pythonismyn6321 Quicker flow = more temperature differential over all of the area. Heat transfert depends on the temperature difference, area and U-value (Thermal transmittance). Only the area is the same when you have faster or slower flow, both the temperature difference as well as the U-value are better with faster flow.
Its kinda like blowing on the soup in the spoon instead of just waiting for it to cool down.
You can also take it to the extreme:
Slow: The coolant is heat up to 120°C and then cools down to 50°C in the radiator.
Fast: It heats up to 95°C and cools to 85°C.
Not only is it better for the engine (or whatever) to not have such a variable temperture all over the place, the radiator can remove more heat in the latter case. Lets say ambient temperature is 20°C, to calculate the temperature difference in one value (its changing all the time, but we dont want to calculate 1000 times) we have to use the logarithmic mean temperature difference. This is (delta = d = difference):
dT_ln = (dT_A - dT_B) / ln (dT_A / dT_B)
slow case: 120-20 = 100°C for dT_A and 50-20=40°C for B. Result: dT_ln = 58°C
fast case: 95-20=75°C dT_A and 85-20=65°C dT_B. Result: dT_ln = 70°C
Lets say U-value stays the same (it would go up):
Heat transfer = Area * U-value * dT_ln
The fast case has 20% better heat transfer just from the temperature difference alone. The thinner boundary layer would increase the U-value and thus it would be >20%.
@@leocurious9919 wow, that was a thorough explanation! many thanks!
Leo Curious How do you get 20% the difference in degrees isnt even 20% and i think you have to use kelvin wich makes the difference even smaller.
Love your videos! No need for the background music, It takes away from the viewing.
Regards
Doron
Excellent. Andrew ! ..(technical tenacity)...that’s what I’m going to call it ! I going to say it’s your strongest asset. Always going/doing to learn more and expand on what you already know. In your business...hell, in ANY business....that’s a great trait.
Andrew next time you are removing the studs, screw 2 hex nuts tight against each other and put the spanner on the bottom one, it will
screw straight out without potential thread damage. Keep up good work.
Nice job bro! Only thing is when your tightening the cylinder head always follow the manufacturers tourqe sequence!!
definately
Good luck finding that
@@wolfman1549 Maybe not readily available, but common sense says start in middle and rotate outwards, at least, that's been the case on all cyl heads I have ever done.
I noticed that too, start in the middle and work your way out or you'll be doing a new head gasket or head sooner than you know.
lol year half later still running strong no problems
When my girlfriend was just 16 years old I got her to help me rebuild a 1966 Chevelle SuperSport ... it was cool car 283 V8, turbo glide 2 speed automatic, mag rims, pioneer 8 track etc ... we mostly did body work and had it painted professionally .. when it was done in September I GAVE her the car so she could drive to high school :) ... we go married 2 years later! :)
She was ALWAYS there to help me with projects! ... We did everything together, she gave me 4 kids (I still have three at home) but she got sick and died as a young woman, just 40 something ... that was 5 years ago and I miss her every day :(
thats heartbreaking so many SJWs now have ruined real feminism
So sorry to hear that Mike. Sounds like she was a great woman and a great wife.
Andrew, also my 2 cents worth as a diesel mechanic with many years experience. Its a good idea to have those injectors tested at he very least, and change the nozzles. With an overheating issue, that heat transfer surrounds the injector nozzles and discolors and distorts the pintle and nozzle mating surface. Seeing how it started and the heaps of black smoke, I suspect that is why. Dribbling injectors and a poor spray pattern is a diesel engine killer
You do things that some may say is not the right way but you still get the job done and it works when something doesn’t go right your also not afraid to show that, you just keep getting it done ! Thanks for the videos
The random girl made this this video so interesting!
It's great to have a helper! I do so many tasks solo!
Still tryin to figure out who the girl is since you say your single
@@FARMERJARED14
That is the Subaru technician.
@@FARMERJARED14 do you guys read the dates on anything? this was years ago, he could've had 10 other girlfriends since then, cmon!
The real american cowboy that’s the girl in the island clearing video.
Good work Andrew always enjoy your vids bro
Thanks
Any woman who will help you out replacing a head is a real keeper, but you already knew that.
here's me thinking you were a super engineer and then you shatter my impression as you break every rule of tightening cylinder head bolts!
This man a Jack of all trades and a MASTER of all, impressive man, very impressive indeed, I am impressed, nothing is hard for him. You're an asset man.
Did you use new head bolts? Unless it's a small engine (lawnmower, etc) they usually tell you to replace the head bolts every time the head comes off. At least that's the way it works with car engines, can't imagine a diesel engine for a skid steer is much different in that regard. Head gasket looks like it's the same kind of technology at least (Multi-Layer Steel gasket).
I can appreciate the ambition but theres a lot of tricks and critical things im sure you learned the hard way here.
Wow having someone like to help out who doesn't mind getting a bit dirty is priceless cheers buddy
Andrew, I've gotta tell you, when I saw the impact wrench on that engine, I cried!! Please tell me you had, and referred to the Kubota service manual for this head replacement, or at least sought the advice of a mechanic on this.
The cup brush on the mini grinder is also a very un-advised way to remove dirt, UNLESS you're doing a total tear down and clean up before reassembly. Now, I did see that others mentioned this too, those folks had good advice.
Have you re-torqued the head in the specified tightening pattern since?
One last bit of advice from an 'older' guy and a friend, please PLEASE, don't use that damned starting fluid , now unless Kubota says it's O.K. Man, that stuff can kill your engine real quick!
Some engines it's o.k., but a lot of engines, NO, NEVER, NO WAY!!
Now, If I have a vote here,...keep that 'buddy' around! She adds a certain 'brightness' to your already good videos!
Reg Sparkes I torqued the head. Do you think I should re torque it? I don't want to do it if it's not necessary because the rockers have to be removed to do it.
Yeah I know, re-torquing can be a pain in the butt, however if the Kubota manual or mechanics suggest it, then I guess you have to.
Heating and cooling, heating and cooling may change the compression ( clamping force) on the head gasket, and some , if not most, engines need this done.
I'm thinking here Andrew that you perhaps you should check with the folks from where you bought the head for their advice on this.
I only know that I had to do this enough times on different engines according to their Shop Manuals.
I guess by now, you can see that I'm a great believer in these Manuals, they were an important 'tool' in our shop.
Ok, yeah I didn't do it.
Andrew Camarata you should on all but graphite head gaskets. Rule of thumb
great job! I thought I heard you say in the video there is no thermostat in the engine? having the correct thermostat will greatly help the radiator cool the antifreeze and in turn keep the motor running at an optimal running temperature. I may have misunderstood you saying that.
daveknowshow you heard right. I guess I should have added one. I sold this machine.
a costly mistake , but at least you figured it out and have an extra head now .. enjoyed the help you had.
Tip for unscrewing stud bolts. Take a screw and cut it in on one side. The gap allows to press the screw easely together. Screw this onto the stud bolt, you can use pliers to apply pressure to the thread without damaging it.
After watching this I wouldn’t let you fix my wheel barrow
Yeah there are a lot of people that dont know what they are talking about complimenting him, as if they are worthy of doing any complementing about what they know even LESS about. Humars are strange fucking creatures. Then when you try and give him advice what not to do, they get all hot and bothered as if their golden boy knows best 100% of the time and leaned all he knows from the gods. I like AC because he at least tries and works hard, but a lot of his fanbase are fucking cringy and doing him and the channel a disservice.
If he was presenting this as an instructional video, I would tend to agree with you guys.. but it's just a peek over his shoulder at what he's doing with his own stuff.
Plus, this guy routinely shows and admits his mistakes. (He COULD'VE easily edited out the part with the aftermarket head)
While you're right that most viewers don't have the skills or tenacity to attempt these jobs, I believe they defend him because he DOES, whether it's by-the-book or not..
I've seen him take advise from more experienced mechanics, there are some in THESE comments..
In all, I just see a guy that's learning as he goes and don't we wish that a larger percentage of 20 or 30-somethings would have the gumption to do the same these days?..
Where do you get the music for your videos? Keep up the good work!
Thanks, UA-cam audio library.
I also enjoy your video's BUT. I think I have it figured out. You actually DON'T speed up your vids. That is your actual speed and occasionally you talk and work very slowly to make us believe that your just like us!!! Great Job. I've got to get an excavator!!!!!
marty Highley lol yeah, you figured out my secret
@@AndrewCamarata hello there are no secrets on UA-cam you should know that...
2 things, #1 need to pressure test fluid system with air pump 12-15lbs... Check for leaks. #2 need to flow test radiator's liquid flow by volume... Some could of up stop leak in and the little transfer ports in side radiator are plugged up. As a certified mechanic that would be my guess. And for future note to self, if head gasket is the problem you can test for vaper in the radiator from the combustion or leaking gasket... Just a FYI... COOL the have such good help...
A working thermostat makes it run cooler than without a thermostat
How, better for engine in that it warms up faster, yes
Keeps it at operating temperature even in cold conditions, yes
Runs cooler than without thermostat..... can't see it myself
Always run thermostats myself in all gear although have seen plenty of old gear running without a thermostat, can't see how it makes anything run cooler
Cylinder head replaced , a few tweaks “ good as new “ 😂
Can''t believe there are so many positive comments about this guy. Doesn't use even basic best practice for replacing a cylinder head (which looked like it didn't need replacing)
Your attention to detail is awesome....
Who's the girl? Thought you said all the locals were no good?! ;)
She's ok, she would be much more fun if she would spend the night more often.
Haha let her go your lucky she leaves... Better then breaking balls or taking your money...
She is not afraid to get her hands dirty, looks like good help!
7 1/2 years and $250,000 trying to get rid of mine, lawyers suck!
Helping you prep a cylinder head to go back in an engine is a good start. When they talk, act really interested and smile while making eye contact. ( if that don't work, move the work bench to the bedroom ) You did a nice job and it's back in service making you money. Thanks for the video
Love your videos but damn man double nut the studs instead of vise grips. Cringe
Andrew is the king of “just send it”. His channel is probably my favorite thing to watch
You saved yourself a ton of money in labor also enjoy watching your videos
Don't you think you should have oiled the valve train , BEFORE you started the engine ?
The oil pumps up there right away, I think.
Anyone sporting a Subaru t-shirt is in very close relations with a mechanic lol.
I own Subaru t-shirts and can further confirm the accuracy of your statement haha
Ya as soon as you hear "Head" you know its going to be good or VERY BAD! Hope the camera girl comes back, looked cute with a wrench in hand.
Hell yes, you are a mechanic. Finally, A beer shows up on the build. :-)
That girl liked beer.
@@AndrewCamarata Lol. If you say so. Beer is good for you. What is not is being drunk and being stupid.
ANDREW IF THAT GAL is not your girl friend you need to change that real fast!!! how many gals do you know that can work on engines and not bitch about getting the hands dirty!!?? Old One Legged Joseph T
Hello Andrew LOOKs Like You Found A LADY Thar Is Mechanlcally A VERY RARE FIND ???
WISH I COULD FIND ONE ??? Russ Single From Ann Arbor , MIchigan > Maybe Some Day ???
never in my life seen a one man outfit with so much equitment man you must make dam good money
He buys cheap and fixes them.
Not your bussiness. Count your own
GREAT THE ASSISTENT IS at long last AT WORK !!!! Now Andrew is going to do a good job !!!! warm regards from F. GUYANA
FAN BLADES NO GOOD
Wire wheel wire brush big no no 🤦🏻♂️ that’s just asking for more trouble
lol year half later still running strong no problems
Y
cringe moment with the vice grips on the stud threads... why not just double nut them and back them out? lol and then the impact on the head studs in no particular order... i wouldnt be surprised if it blows a head gasket out towards the drivers cab
Great opportunity to do a through cleaning on the injectors!
Learned this from working at a couple of parts stores. If you can bring in the part that you need tends to make it easier to find.
Andrew can fix POS equipment and turn it into something that will work well and serve his objective in the things he does. This is a key to his success since he can fix just about anything put before him. He definitely is not afraid of work and taking on repair projects where others would discard the equipment.
Better yet, Andrew got his girl friend to help. She is a keeper.
YOU ARE ONE FEARLESS YOUNG MAN Andrew!
I like the music. It sounds like a video game from the 90's.
It could be so many problems but great that you figured it out...
I never knew you had this skid steer till this video popped up lol
Damm aftermarket parts ur a man of many trades.u are the man
190 isn't bad for engine temperature. I don't know if you did it or not but getting a few bottles of Prestone cooling system flush and running it through the cooling system with water and then refilling with new coolant has always kept my old trucks running good and prevented any overheating due to gunk in the cooling passages.
Jack of all trades...
Another great troubleshooting and repair. Nicely done.
Have you ever tried a wheeled excavator? I find them very versatile, and if you have super-single tires you can almost go anywhere.
And any plans for a roto-tilt?
Greetings from Sweden, great work with the videos!
top tip !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
cover or plug all oil passages in the block and use white grease to seal the pistons to the walls and fill cylinders with many rags or paper towels ... then you can clean the deck and remove all the plugs and towels wipe up most of the grease and then use a pick to get the grease from the cyl wall and piston to remove all debris for a 100% sterile rebuild
You my friend are truly talented and work ethic is amazing