Mitsubishi Pajero Wheel Bearing Replacement Generation 4 Pajero / Montero / Shogun
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- Опубліковано 21 сер 2024
- Replacing the rear wheel bearing on a 2008 NS Mitsubishi Pajero (aka Montero aka Shogun)
Tools
• 17mm socket
• 12mm socket
• 36mm socket
• Pliers
• Hammer
• Torque wrench (210-230NM)
• Breaker bar
• Blowtorch
• 4mm split pin (50mm long)
Specifications
• Hub shaft nut 210-230NM
• Hub retaining bolts 70-150NM (depending on brake size)
• Caliper bolts 113NM
• Rotor position speed sensor and guard bolts 12NM
Mitsubishi part purchased from www.ebaystores....
Appreciate the great tooling breakdown at the start. Helped me out loads with being pre prepped!!
Have just replaced the rear wheel bearing on my 2014 Pajero using your video instructions. It went great thanks to the quality of the video and commentary. I was also impressed that you were wearing special safety shoes to do the work :-)...
Cheers mate, happy to help
Fantastic video mate. I really appreciate the extra effort you made by putting all the details in the description. I wish more people took the time to do that.
Cheers mate, easiest bit of the whole video :)
Great job mate!
Gotta love the no BS Aussie instructional vid!
I just had our NT have its RWC today and needs a rear bearing/hub replaced.
So thankyou very much for your very helpful vid without the normal bullshit chat! 👍
Thanks mate, glad it is of help. Always happily endorse FF thru regular UA-cam bullshit chitchat 🍻
Good job DAD (I am lana the helper)
I really like how you present this video. Please make more about the maintenance you do in your pajero
thanks Gary, some more are coming soon
Good step-by-step video and great tips for getting the hub off simply. Much appreciated. Subscribed and looking forward to more Pajero tech vids. Cheers.
Thanks Dan, next one is replacing the in tank filter.
Great video tutorial mate! Good camera work and easy to follow directions. I took the wife's 2012 NW Paj for a spin yesterday and going by the sound from the rear. I'll be doing this soon. Had them replaced at 80k under warranty with factory originals, but after another 60k I think they might be shot again. I'll need to jack it up and check them for play before an upcoming trip.
They are a really crap design with no dust seal on the rear of them.
Thanks for your comment 👍and I totally agree with you Steve, I'm not sure why the rears don't come with the seal when the front ones do(!?).
Seems I jumped the gun, I just checked and the bearings are fine, must be the tyre noise I'm hearing. Anyway, I'll be sure to reference your video when it comes time to do them.
@@SteBren181 well, if it were me, I would have spent that money in my mind on new bearings already. Now you can spend it on something else ;)
Great Vid,just one very important thing for the uninitiated ,always lower the car on to the stand. Dont just put the stand under,thinking it will save you if the jack gives out,it probably wont.A car can roll sideways off a jack,so always actually lower the car on to the stand before you work on it.
You are right and I should have showed this
Good job, wish I'd seen your cvshaft trick before, would have saved me an hour stuffing around removing control arms👍
Awesome stuff 🤙
Great job man.
You just made it professionally , easy , and clear step by step.
Thanx for everything.
Well done. Thanks for sharing. I just bought p4 and see no rear disc shields.....gonna do stainless ones. cheers
Love to see what you come up with
i found it alot easier to just take all the arms off and remove the whole hub , and no heat required just put a big socket at the back of the bearing and belted it out with a lump hammer. Also 100% recommend unscrew hand brake adjuster before pulling the disc off. the inside of the disc rust and form a lip that catches the hand brake shoes and you'll end up snapping the shoe retaining pins when pull discs off
Nice tips!
Loving the Ausi safety boots 👍
Bloody legend! This is exactly the video I needed. Thanks so much for making such a clear and informative video!!! 👍👍👍
Thanks for your comment, glad it helped
Great video. Really well presented
Excellent video. Thanks for taking the time to film this and share your knowledge.
Thanks
Great video with clear instructions. Thank you mate.
Thanks 🙏
Thanks for the video mate, doing my rear hub assembly on my NS next week 🤙
Thanks mate, hope it all goes well. How many k’s?
@@TravelingBanker just clicked over 200,000kms
@@kirkulessonofgoose7503 Solid. any issues with the bearings? Or preventative maintenance? Interested how you go extracting them
@@TravelingBanker the left rear has movement when jacked up and last time I drove it the wheel hummed and I could feel heaps of vibration through the vehicle, the noise and vibration went away whenever I turned left and weight was taken off that wheel lol
I don’t know if it’s premature wear from spending a night stuck in a mud hole in the glasshouse mountains a while back 😂
I’ll let you know how it goes mate.
There’s a video of my ns on ultimate diesel from a few years ago getting tuned. I had DPF issues last year so I deleted the old exhaust and got a 3 inch turbo back and a new tune from a different shop 🤙
@@TravelingBanker ua-cam.com/video/B6P7BOORhdI/v-deo.htmlsi=JQ9_Pnj4OSOQpbbb
I would suggest putting W40 for a night, to make it easier!
Always worth a shot!
Wish it was that easy. Here in Norway where they salt the roads during the winter the whole assembly has to come down and be put into the press.
I'm interested to know if PB Blaster (suggested in comments) would help.
@@TravelingBanker Doubt any spray will do. When i replaced the bearing in front on my 01 mk3 it needed 13 tons to release the hub.
@@opelduude thats good to know
@@opelduude same problem. For next change prepare - use Cu paste to all rusty part's. I tested and work. After accident (change after 4 yars) was easy.
Excellent video, I will put some Grease hot temperature grease for sure when put it together.
Thanks and interested to hear how you go with yours
Thanks mate, saved me plenty
Cheers mate, glad it helped
Hey Mate, Tried doing my rear left today but i couldn't get the Hub Nuts off, i just cant seem to get enough leverage to crack them loose even with your trick of pushing the driveshaft in they are really tight and minimal space to put pressure on the ratchet. Guess i need to get more tools.
Bummer. They can be tough. Use heat. Anti-seize/penetrating spray. Breaker bar with a long bar on the end for leverage. Good luck!
Really useful video. Mine's an old Mk2 but the principle is all the same.
That’s great to know it works on the Mk2s - thanks!
Great tutorial wish I had seen this sooner.
Thanks mate, tell us your story - what happened?
@@TravelingBanker great vid what brand aux tank do you have
mackerel mission Brown Davis
Would a 2000NM be similar in practice???.....by the way great vid mate
Thank you for your comment. I've not done an NM but it is theoretically the same part. If the bearing is real stuck you could take the hub bolts out and try driving the front of the flange sideways to rotate it in the knuckle.
PS - love to hear how you go!
Dead set legend, right down to your safety thongs!
Thanks mate. Translucent kevlar safety boots 🤣
NEC time clean those axle splines so you have less chances of tiny movements in the splines making the diff clunky
Thanks mate, this was bloody handy.
Happy to help mate
Have you prepared a video on the front hub replacement, great video on the rear
G’day, haven’t done the fronts as yet but will do in the next couple of months. Fronts are a bit easier and the LWB has a seal at the back of the hub that protects the bearing (so, it shouldn’t be rusted to the hub. Next video will be transmission replacement
Great video!!! Quick question though, before you put the big hub nut on, did it have a washer? I remember reading in the manual that there is supposed to be one there, but when i started trying to replace my wheel bearings a while ago, i noticed that there was no washer present. I'm keen to give it another go coz the first time i couldn't undo the 4 wheel bearing hub nuts, but I'm a bit confused as to whether it not it needs the big washer.
Thanks mate. I don’t recall any washer and can’t find reference to it in the workshop manual.
Fukn cheers mate - ripper
Haha, cheers mate
Thank you for sharing your knowledge
Great Video and some top tips!!! Learn from yr dad Lana and u will be ahead of the game!!
Looks like the Cotter pin is in incorrectly. Also, you don't bend the legs the way you have. one over the shaft and one the way you did.
Hi Gerald, apologies mate, I missed your comment. You’re spot on, with a castellated nut you put the split pin in the other way so one leg locks in the ridge of the nut and the other bends over the end of the shaft. The shaft nut isn’t castellated but has a locking ring over the top instead which is why I put the split pin in the way I did.
les pajeros 3.2 did ont souvent se probleme au roulement et difficil a enlever metre beaucoup d'huil degrip oil puis l'enlever
lots of it
Great video!!
Thanks for sharing, I’ll do the rears myself, is it pretty much the same for the front?
Thanks 👍
Yep, fronts are easy
Excellent
Thanks
What's the part number? Can it fit my 2003 shogun? Great video BTW
03 is a gen 3 2006 onwards is gen4
Check out partsouq.com for the part number specific to your vehicle
Hi, great video thanks. Do you know if you can use the same trick you did by hammering the bolt for the front bearings too or not enough room?
The fronts are easier. From memory I didn't have to use the hammer on the bolt trick
Good detailled, but to loosen rhe bearing with a little heat seems not to be realistic
By the way, cool savety shoes 😉
Try not to burn the car down 🤣
Where did you get your car seat covers from
EBay seller, Supertrim. Neoprene seat covers. They look great when new and fit very well. The colour fades a little with time but the fit is still tight.
Awesome video mate. What symptoms did you have for the bad bearing?
I could hear a dull rumble from the rear when driving. Then jacked the rear up to checked the play in the wheel
@@TravelingBanker thanks. I've got a wooshing sound that gradually builds and intensifies at 60kph and mellows above 70kph. Also got new D697 so it's a bit hard to determine if it's the tires or bearings
Very nice job.i believe.ive follow. What's are doing.thnks a Lots:
Thanks mate. Currently editing video of engine swap from NX to NS, with engine ECU swap as well.
Mate, I am wondering whats the torque setting is for the wheel bearing housing bolt? You said the hub retaining bolt is 190-220NM, it seems a bit too high for an M14 bolt? The front wheel bearing housing was only torqued to 100NM.
Cheers
Yes, thanks for picking up this error.. I’ve corrected the description. I did the 4 hub retaining bolts as per faq.out-club.ru/download/pajero_iv/maintenance/Service_Manual_2008_2013/img/27/AC604028AC00ENG.pdf
@TravelingBanker what was the 4 rear bolt torque buddy for holding the hub on.
@@TravelingBankernever mind I just seen it's all in ya description
Thanks for the video. I have to bleed the brakes on my NX Pajero as part of the 90k service schedule. Any tips or any thing I need to look out for in doing this on the Paj would be greatly appreciated.
I never had any problems bleeding from the nipple on the back of the caliper with a brake bleed tool. These are the Mits instructions faq.out-club.ru/download/pajero_iv/maintenance/Service_Manual_2008_2013/2010/35/html/M135101470005801ENG.HTM
@@TravelingBanker Thanks for that. Are you going to do any further videos? Basic service items on the Paj would be good. It looks like your Paj has suspension upgrade. Are you happy with the results (handling, ride quality etc). Some say that lifting the Paj is asking for wheel bearing failure?
@@guanghunglo3594 It has a Dobinsons 2" lift kit and Airbag Man airbags in the rear. I am happy with the quality of it and it is set up good. There is a bushing on top of the struts in the front that usually needs to be replaced when doing the struts.
I have not heard of suspension lifts causing wheel bearing failure. The wheel bearings on mine that failed were non genuine but lasted the 50,000km guarantee. I did a 20,000km trip with the car very loaded and on some rough roads which helped the rear ones to fail.. The bearings on the front are still OK.
Appreciate your patience on more videos as I am moving house at the moment, I have 2 videos I am editing - a short one for towing mirrors and a long one relating to a transmission swap from a newer model.
I was going to do a couple of videos on engine maintenance - checking engine compression, adjusting valve clearances, timing chain guide.
What maintenance are you planning to do on your Pajero?
@@TravelingBanker Thank you for your reply. Planning on doing the 90k service soon on my NX Pajero. All service items apart from adjusting the valve clearances which I think would be beyond me and I feel probably unnecessary as the vehicle hasn't done any hard work or towing. I think an audible check would be all that is required in this case. Your thoughts?
Things of interest would be: Diesel fuel filter change, Transmission fluid flush, Brake pad and rotor change, Radiator flush, Power steering flush, etc. There's a lot of info on the web but not all of it trustworthy nor specific to Pajero's.
I may buy a lift kit and install it myself as can't really afford to have it done for me. My son is a Mechanical Fitter and he's pretty good on the tools. Just a bit worried as to how it would handle on the road in normal driving conditions?
Your brake rotors look like the slotted type. Is this an improvement on the standard rotor? My fronts need replacing soon as I an getting some mild steering wheel wobble when applying the brakes lately and it seems to be only getting worse over time.
Thanks & cheers.
@@guanghunglo3594 when the engine sounds a bit “rattly” when cold, is when I check the valve clearances.
Thanks for your suggestions on service videos, I would do every one of these.
For the fuel filter, I unbolt the assembly and change the filter outside of the car - using a vice and an oil filter wrench.
I use a vacuum coolant changer tool when changing the coolant - it creates a vacuum using an air compressor (also checks for leaks) to refill the coolant without any air purging.
I am a big believer in buying quality, reputable parts - you get what you pay for. I talked to Dobinsons, told them about my car and what I use it for and they recommended the right suspension springs for me. Car, for me, drives great. It is good you have your son to help you. If you and your son have the time to install, you learn a lot and no mechanic will care for your car more than you.
The brake rotors are DBA brand. They are slotted and I believe this type of rotor to be better for my needs - stop/start work commute; towing; touring with load.
All the best
Step 1 Search the Internet
Step 2 Find Aussie (in thongs)
Step 3 Get job Done !!!
Great video Mate.
Thanks so much. Saved me a heap of hassle.
Lol, happy to help mate.
How'd you go with the handbrake? Did you need to adjust it? I just did my rear rotors and pads and the rear passenger side shoe seems to be scraping on the rotor. I almost fixed it when I adjusted the handbrake, but then the scraping noise returned once I went around a right hand turn... it's sending me crazy!
G'day Rad, I didn't have an issue with the handbrake but have found what has worked for me in the past is to tighten the adjuster on the shoes until the rotor is locked and then back off the adjuster. Then adjust the handbrake to suit the stroke.
14mm bolts on the new bearing yeah? 12mm in the previous gen pajero yeah?
G’day, sorry, I don’t know much about previous model. The SWB models have the 12mm bolts in current gen - best to check part number against your VIN eg partsouq.com
Al minuto 12.55 prima di inserire il mozzo ruota va ingrassato il millerighe per evitare di macinarli,una grave dimenticanza che porta al deterioramento precoce del semiasse.
Do you mean, I should clean the splines on the CV shaft before putting the new hub on?
How the heck did you push the CV shaft that easy in? The one we have here, is completly stuck 🤔
I have no idea🤷🏼how did you progress? 🤔
Following
I have a 1996 H57A Mitsubishi Pajero jr that has a rear bearing issue. Where do you order your parts from?
partsouq.com or amayama.com
Just saw this video I not sure what year is this montero mine is 2005 and if it is the same this was completely done wrong
The job only takes 30 minutes straight time no cutting or editing if it is done the right easy way
Gday, it says this is a 2008 in the description.
Which part do you think I could have done a better job?
Interested to hear your method
Is that a long range tank I seen at the back?
Yep
No grease needed?
Where
Why no grease on the spline ?
Not needed. What is needed is cleaning the splines of rust, dirt and burrs - i did not do that and should have showed it
PB Blaster needed here
Thanks for the suggestion. I will try this on my next project.
do you have parts no for rear wheel bearing pajero v96w?
G'day, easiest way is to check on partsouq.com
Great video, very clear instructions well done!
Thank you!