Well the whole purpose of the 12v impact is it's size to power ratio. Of course he bigger tool will have more power. It wont be able to fit where the 12v will though. That's the point. As a car mechanic, small impacts like the m12 milwaukee and this parkside are EXTREMELY useful. If you want power in a relatively small tool though, the custom one is a monster from the looks of it.
@@BrokeLifeEU Both are great for what they advertise. Very comparable to the expensive Milwaukees in my opinion. As of right now, Parkside is the best brand at it's price range, by far. The tools cost less than half of what a Milwaukee costs, and they are almost as good.
I expect there will be even more of a difference when I test them with their biggest batteries. For the 20V it can go up to 8Ah, for the 12V 5Ah. For sure the PDSSAP B3 gains a lot when on the 8Ah!
Absolutely I used the ones that come in the box. Because I think they could have done better and included proper Cr-Mo sockets instead of black Cr-V. And painting them black I think is just a way to mask the fact they are not proper impact sockets.
@@BrokeLifeEU That's definitely true. Those are just painted sockets that aren't meant for impacting tools. They're meant for ratchets. The only Parkside tool that has the proper sockets is the 20v big Impact wrench that advertises 1300nm of torque. You should DEFINITELY review that one.
Absolutely looks like it! The 12v is a missed opportunity in my mind. It could have been so much better. But I think they wanted to play it safe and not cut in to the 20v market share.
The way batteries work play a big impact on power delivery. If you had a 4ah 18v and 4ah 12v, the 12v will run out of power before the 18v Reason being, an 18650 for example has a max output current of 20amp. So if it requires a 20amp draw, the more cells means it shares the current draw over more cells so it’s not actually using the 20amp, it might be drawing 4amp per cell for 18v instead of 20 on a single cell so more cells means there’s more power delivery capability. So the more cells you add the more they share the power draw between them meaning more power
Agreed! The idea behind the video is more along the lines of comparing the 12V factory tool against the 20V conversion. Do you need the 12V or if you have the 20V should you just convert that instead.
Wow that is a big difference! I am trying to set up a big bolt challenge for both! I hope I can do it, however it will nust prive I think that the 12v is a hige missed opportunity…
@@BrokeLifeEU Yes it's big. On my profile I have video with loosening 650Nm. Pre-production version of 12V loosened 650Nm, but this production is much weaker
I wanted to test it the way Lidl ship it. However I will do a test part 2. With the bigger batteries and CR-Mo sockets on both for all bolts. Just trying to figure out how to incorporate bigger bolts and higher torque demands.
@@BrokeLifeEU yes it is definitely stupid from Lidl to put those sockets with impact WRENCH when they are not strong enough. Anyway I have B3 20V and will definitely modify from 1/4 to 1/2.
You have already seen the other video but unfortunately that anvil it seems to me is impossible to last. But as I said I will try and find an option for you!
Hi , what I would love is a 3/8 anvil for the 12v impact , that would be awesome Any plans of looking in to that conversion? That’s for all your videos
I am looking in to it! As I also want a 3/8" drive impact. As soon as I have a result that is easy to do, no machining I will upload a video! I hope I will get to the bottom of it and manage to find a usable 3/8" mod that is let's say Plug&Play.
The correct bushings have not yet arrived. However that is not a sustanable conversion, as the anvils for the small 12V impact are not sold separately. However they are wuite short snd would make it a great tool for tight spaces! P.S. the outside diameter of the bushings on the teo tools is quite different! Among other more subtle differences in sizes.
True next to no Performance series tools in the UK, still they can be ordered in from abroad. Or if you travel abroad you can pick them up. If they are on sale they can be really had to put down. The Brushless (Performance) series really punches above its weight.
I have not ever had the chance to hold the PDSSAP A1 in my hands. So anything I say will be a wild guess. However the A1 is so different from the B2 and B3 that I will say that the modification done with these parts will not be successful. I hope at some point to get my hands on an A1 and then I will see what I can do!
can you tighten a bolt to 350 nm with a torque wrench and try to unscrew it first with the 18v parkside and then with the 12v to do a maximum torque test?
If the difference is no more than €5 I would say it is worth it. It will give you a little more top end but not a lot. It will not transform the tool is what I am saying, but fo the size and weight of the 4Ah it is nicer to have. And you can get more run time out if it if you use it in a drill or 12V LED light.
Thanks for great video! Is that a fact that B3 is a lot stronger with 8Ah battery? I was thinking which battery to buy, 4Ah is compact and staisfy my needs in terms of capacity but if 8Ah makes it more powerful I should rethink..
You don’t have to take my word for it! I will make a new bideo 8Ah on the 20V and the 5Ah on the 12V. I am however having to figure out a way to teat on the biggest possible bolts and the mximum possible Nm. At this point I can just say that I feel the 8Ah unlocks a lot of potential in the converted option.
@@BrokeLifeEU You can try both 4 and 8Ah on those big bolts and high torque, some big screws in wood also, to see what a difference it makes at the limit, that may be a new video, just some ideas, hope you don't mind 👋🏻👋🏻
Thank you very much for the test, I am also very disappointed. Was really hoping de 12V impact would perform better ... Also 12V pricing is spread out far between countries, from appr. 40 EUR to 80 EUR from wat I can see (and not available in the Netherlands yet). I was planning on buying 2, I will probably skip it all together and wait for an updated/improved version in a couple of years. My modified 20V will have to suffice untill then ...
The modified 20V is what I will also be using too. I don't think the 12V Parkside impact will ever be as good as it needs to be. The one and only true 12V impact I would say is the 3/8 Milwaukee stubby. Otherwise go with a 20V. At least in that case you can get a lot out of the PDSSAP with the 1/2" conversion.
Well it did everything the 20v does without voiding you 5 year warranty. Just a little bit slower. How can that be disappointing compared to a 20v tool? I’d say the parkside stubby is excellent and there is no longer need for the converted drill anymore and if you need more torque then you should buy the big 20v impact with 1k+Nm torque.
@@Eiapopeia-f1e I have the heavy/1kNm 20V it is bulky. I will be happy to have it when I need it, but in practice the modified 20V is my "go to" since I got/made it. The warranty doesn't bother me (if I ever need it I can convert it back within 30 min. ... plus it is kind of cheap/sleazy to warranty a heavily used budget tool), I have used it for about a year now (hobby use, however I have 3 cars in maintenance) and it has held up perfectly: I don't expect any issues at most a clean and grease of the internals after a couple of years. I might still pick up a 12V (once on sale, at the moment it is still unavailable in the Netherlands) because you can never have to many tools, I am just disappointed that it didn't perform better in BrokeLifeEU's test. I don't expect speed (it's 12V vs 20V a compromise has to be made), but a little more torque would have been nice and the prototype showed it was achievable. I don't expect Milwaukee (or Dewalt) performance either, but so far the Parkside Performance tools come pretty close at a fraction of the cost.
@@Easy-NL "is kind of cheap/sleazy to warranty a heavily used budget tool" oh really? And "if I ever need it I can convert it back within 30 min" is not sleazy? But ok you seem to live by a completely different logic than the rest of the world
Yes I did see it on the site and also a new high torque PASSP B4 is coming. However for both from the looks of it the change is just cosmetic. By that I mean the mode selector button is being changed to be more in line with the rest of the newer tools. On the other hand it could mean discounts on outgoing models!
Call me old fashioned, but for me CR-V sockets are not proper impact sockets. True they are heavy and the walls on them are thick but still. I think a somewhat decent CR-Mo socket is better on an impact than a somewhat decent CR-V, albeit shipped as an impact socket. I have a suspicion these may be the same sort of socket that are in the Parkside PASSK (green impact wrench) set. Those were horrible on that tool too. It needed proper impact sockets to get anything done, even then it struggled with most jobs.
My point exactly! If the 12V impact was the tool that would have made you buy in to the X12 Team package but you have the X20 batteries. Don't bother and just get a PDSSAP and convert it. It is a better tool at the end of the day!
I understand why you wanna compare them because they’re similar in size but one is 18 V when is 12 V I think a closer comparison would be the Milwaukee compact impact wrench, which is basically a stubby convert 18 V
I see your point, however the price difference between Milwaukee and Parkside is immense. Most people who buy Parkside do so for DIY jobs and won't even consider something expensive. Hence why the review is between the two Parkside tools of similar price. So if someone is trying to get some of these tools they have an idea of which battery system to buy in to.
Exactly why I chose to use it. The 17mm socket in the set is an unbelievable compromise! Sucks all the power out of the tool and gives nothing at the other end.
Well the whole purpose of the 12v impact is it's size to power ratio. Of course he bigger tool will have more power. It wont be able to fit where the 12v will though. That's the point. As a car mechanic, small impacts like the m12 milwaukee and this parkside are EXTREMELY useful. If you want power in a relatively small tool though, the custom one is a monster from the looks of it.
I guess I was expecting a bit too much out of the 12V version. Still good to have around just in case!
@@BrokeLifeEU Both are great for what they advertise. Very comparable to the expensive Milwaukees in my opinion. As of right now, Parkside is the best brand at it's price range, by far. The tools cost less than half of what a Milwaukee costs, and they are almost as good.
That is good to hear! Makes me less sad that I can't afford or justify a Milwaukee!
The modified B3 is much better. I have bought the 12v version but Ill return it because I ordered the anvil and bushing to convert my B2 ✌🏻
I expect there will be even more of a difference when I test them with their biggest batteries. For the 20V it can go up to 8Ah, for the 12V 5Ah. For sure the PDSSAP B3 gains a lot when on the 8Ah!
Same here im waiting for Aliexpress and waiting to buy 8ah battery to have a beast of tool
Ou avez vous commandé l'enclume sur Ali express svp ?
Couple of comments here. On wheels you used different sockets. Impact guns work better with massive sockets. And well it works 😊
Absolutely I used the ones that come in the box. Because I think they could have done better and included proper Cr-Mo sockets instead of black Cr-V. And painting them black I think is just a way to mask the fact they are not proper impact sockets.
With the bigger batteries both will be on the Cr-Mo sockets. Test coming soon!
@@BrokeLifeEU That's definitely true. Those are just painted sockets that aren't meant for impacting tools. They're meant for ratchets. The only Parkside tool that has the proper sockets is the 20v big Impact wrench that advertises 1300nm of torque. You should DEFINITELY review that one.
Wow I think the 20v one with the conversion is a 100% no brainer
Absolutely looks like it! The 12v is a missed opportunity in my mind. It could have been so much better. But I think they wanted to play it safe and not cut in to the 20v market share.
The way batteries work play a big impact on power delivery.
If you had a 4ah 18v and 4ah 12v, the 12v will run out of power before the 18v
Reason being, an 18650 for example has a max output current of 20amp. So if it requires a 20amp draw, the more cells means it shares the current draw over more cells so it’s not actually using the 20amp, it might be drawing 4amp per cell for 18v instead of 20 on a single cell so more cells means there’s more power delivery capability. So the more cells you add the more they share the power draw between them meaning more power
Agreed! The idea behind the video is more along the lines of comparing the 12V factory tool against the 20V conversion. Do you need the 12V or if you have the 20V should you just convert that instead.
I tested them on 'max loosening power' on 36mm nut. 12V is capable to loose 350Nm and 20V converted is capable to loose 650Nm with 8ah battery.
Wow that is a big difference! I am trying to set up a big bolt challenge for both! I hope I can do it, however it will nust prive I think that the 12v is a hige missed opportunity…
@@BrokeLifeEU Yes it's big. On my profile I have video with loosening 650Nm. Pre-production version of 12V loosened 650Nm, but this production is much weaker
I just saw them. BTW Lovely Honda! @@xtp6969
650 Nm, are you quite sure!?
what hamme are you using, 2 in 1 like here or regular 1/2
But you should test them with the same socket. You use on 12V Cr-V and on 20V Cr-Mo which has stronger impact resistance and has less power loss
I wanted to test it the way Lidl ship it. However I will do a test part 2. With the bigger batteries and CR-Mo sockets on both for all bolts. Just trying to figure out how to incorporate bigger bolts and higher torque demands.
@@BrokeLifeEU yes it is definitely stupid from Lidl to put those sockets with impact WRENCH when they are not strong enough. Anyway I have B3 20V and will definitely modify from 1/4 to 1/2.
Have you seen the prices of the PPDSSAP 12V in Belgium 39.99EUR and 74.99EUR in Germany. Stupid sockets and stupid pricing from Lidl.
@@BrokeLifeEU 12V wrench was also 39,99eur in Croatia last week. But next week 20V driver will be 39,99 also
That sounds like a great deal! I bought the 20V for about €60. Looks like I have to buy a couple more if I find them on sale 😂
the 12v with a 3/8" + hex anvil!? would be perfect for my everyday work... is it possible to get 3/8 anvil like the 20v one here?
You have already seen the other video but unfortunately that anvil it seems to me is impossible to last. But as I said I will try and find an option for you!
Hi , what I would love is a 3/8 anvil for the 12v impact , that would be awesome
Any plans of looking in to that conversion?
That’s for all your videos
I am looking in to it! As I also want a 3/8" drive impact. As soon as I have a result that is easy to do, no machining I will upload a video! I hope I will get to the bottom of it and manage to find a usable 3/8" mod that is let's say Plug&Play.
Can you change the square drive to the 20v one and the small bit to the 12v?
The correct bushings have not yet arrived. However that is not a sustanable conversion, as the anvils for the small 12V impact are not sold separately. However they are wuite short snd would make it a great tool for tight spaces!
P.S. the outside diameter of the bushings on the teo tools is quite different! Among other more subtle differences in sizes.
Good video but unfortunately we can’t get them in UK Lidl
True next to no Performance series tools in the UK, still they can be ordered in from abroad. Or if you travel abroad you can pick them up. If they are on sale they can be really had to put down. The Brushless (Performance) series really punches above its weight.
Hi does this upgrade work for "PDSSAP 20-Li A1" ?
I have not ever had the chance to hold the PDSSAP A1 in my hands. So anything I say will be a wild guess. However the A1 is so different from the B2 and B3 that I will say that the modification done with these parts will not be successful. I hope at some point to get my hands on an A1 and then I will see what I can do!
can you tighten a bolt to 350 nm with a torque wrench and try to unscrew it first with the 18v parkside and then with the 12v to do a maximum torque test?
I will try to do it as soon as I fugure out a way to do it!
@@BrokeLifeEU thanks
Hi Is it worth buying a 5 ah battery, or is a 4 ah battery enough, is there a difference when working with 5 vs. 4 ah? Well thank you
If the difference is no more than €5 I would say it is worth it. It will give you a little more top end but not a lot. It will not transform the tool is what I am saying, but fo the size and weight of the 4Ah it is nicer to have. And you can get more run time out if it if you use it in a drill or 12V LED light.
Thanks for great video!
Is that a fact that B3 is a lot stronger with 8Ah battery? I was thinking which battery to buy, 4Ah is compact and staisfy my needs in terms of capacity but if 8Ah makes it more powerful I should rethink..
You don’t have to take my word for it! I will make a new bideo 8Ah on the 20V and the 5Ah on the 12V. I am however having to figure out a way to teat on the biggest possible bolts and the mximum possible Nm. At this point I can just say that I feel the 8Ah unlocks a lot of potential in the converted option.
@@BrokeLifeEU You can try both 4 and 8Ah on those big bolts and high torque, some big screws in wood also, to see what a difference it makes at the limit, that may be a new video, just some ideas, hope you don't mind 👋🏻👋🏻
Absolutely not! I am here to make ideas in to videos. The more ideas the better!@@Cedo86
Thank you very much for the test, I am also very disappointed. Was really hoping de 12V impact would perform better ... Also 12V pricing is spread out far between countries, from appr. 40 EUR to 80 EUR from wat I can see (and not available in the Netherlands yet). I was planning on buying 2, I will probably skip it all together and wait for an updated/improved version in a couple of years. My modified 20V will have to suffice untill then ...
The modified 20V is what I will also be using too. I don't think the 12V Parkside impact will ever be as good as it needs to be. The one and only true 12V impact I would say is the 3/8 Milwaukee stubby. Otherwise go with a 20V. At least in that case you can get a lot out of the PDSSAP with the 1/2" conversion.
Well it did everything the 20v does without voiding you 5 year warranty. Just a little bit slower. How can that be disappointing compared to a 20v tool?
I’d say the parkside stubby is excellent and there is no longer need for the converted drill anymore and if you need more torque then you should buy the big 20v impact with 1k+Nm torque.
@@Eiapopeia-f1e I have the heavy/1kNm 20V it is bulky. I will be happy to have it when I need it, but in practice the modified 20V is my "go to" since I got/made it. The warranty doesn't bother me (if I ever need it I can convert it back within 30 min. ... plus it is kind of cheap/sleazy to warranty a heavily used budget tool), I have used it for about a year now (hobby use, however I have 3 cars in maintenance) and it has held up perfectly: I don't expect any issues at most a clean and grease of the internals after a couple of years.
I might still pick up a 12V (once on sale, at the moment it is still unavailable in the Netherlands) because you can never have to many tools, I am just disappointed that it didn't perform better in BrokeLifeEU's test. I don't expect speed (it's 12V vs 20V a compromise has to be made), but a little more torque would have been nice and the prototype showed it was achievable.
I don't expect Milwaukee (or Dewalt) performance either, but so far the Parkside Performance tools come pretty close at a fraction of the cost.
@@Easy-NL "is kind of cheap/sleazy to warranty a heavily used budget tool" oh really? And "if I ever need it I can convert it back within 30 min" is not sleazy? But ok you seem to live by a completely different logic than the rest of the world
@@Eiapopeia-f1e in other words, I could but I won't. I know, it's difficult to comprehend.
Hey do you know that Lidl will released a PDSSAP 20 Li C3 on the December 7th for 50€?
In France
Yes I did see it on the site and also a new high torque PASSP B4 is coming. However for both from the looks of it the change is just cosmetic. By that I mean the mode selector button is being changed to be more in line with the rest of the newer tools. On the other hand it could mean discounts on outgoing models!
I'm sure these sockets are impact rated
Call me old fashioned, but for me CR-V sockets are not proper impact sockets. True they are heavy and the walls on them are thick but still. I think a somewhat decent CR-Mo socket is better on an impact than a somewhat decent CR-V, albeit shipped as an impact socket. I have a suspicion these may be the same sort of socket that are in the Parkside PASSK (green impact wrench) set. Those were horrible on that tool too. It needed proper impact sockets to get anything done, even then it struggled with most jobs.
Where are these available at? Never heard of this brand.
Mostly in the EU. Sold in Lidl stores and online on Lidl websites.
No necesary to buy the 12v versión if you have already modded B3 tool, especially if you already have a 20v battery and charger
My point exactly! If the 12V impact was the tool that would have made you buy in to the X12 Team package but you have the X20 batteries. Don't bother and just get a PDSSAP and convert it. It is a better tool at the end of the day!
hello, from where you buy the 1/2 head?
For context I will post a link to the full video - ua-cam.com/video/3szkqlildJw/v-deo.html
and this is plug and play, you to modifiy nothing ?
@@robertp8586 Nope, no need to modify. Just do as I did in the video that I linked and you are good to go. Links for the needed parts are also there.
yes, thanks!
You are most welcome!
I understand why you wanna compare them because they’re similar in size but one is 18 V when is 12 V I think a closer comparison would be the Milwaukee compact impact wrench, which is basically a stubby convert 18 V
I see your point, however the price difference between Milwaukee and Parkside is immense. Most people who buy Parkside do so for DIY jobs and won't even consider something expensive. Hence why the review is between the two Parkside tools of similar price. So if someone is trying to get some of these tools they have an idea of which battery system to buy in to.
@@BrokeLifeEU I did not think of it from that aspect. I was thinking of it more apples, apples comparison, but I see your point point.
@@BrokeLifeEU I still think that the 18 V Parkside in the 18 V Milwaukee would be more apples to apples comparison
If I buy the Milwaukee one day I will definitely make that video happen!@@mn4a15
@@BrokeLifeEU sounds good. I look forward to that take care.
Use the same impact socket. The 17 mm black one is rubbish.
Exactly why I chose to use it. The 17mm socket in the set is an unbelievable compromise! Sucks all the power out of the tool and gives nothing at the other end.
Yes, I know for over 3 years (had the green large impact wrench). Bought some Yato sockets, big difference!
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12V или 20V?