This is the first kicking system that I've learned when I started to play pool seriously, so I thought it's time to put in a video lesson. It's very powerful and helped me many times when playing matches. If you have questions, just feel free to ask. I've put a lot of work into this one, so if you liked it - give me a thumbs up. Enjoy your lesson!
Hey there! When useing this system, maybe you could've mentioned "the spot on the wall" in this video. Ofcourse , I know it really vary from table to table, and if it even is a spot on the wall you could follow! :)
I love this three rails banking so much, I forgot where and how I learn this shot but your instructions are very clear to follow, I will definitely watch this video over and over until I remember what’s diamonds for each object balls locations. I never know that I can play Pool until someone took my hand to a Pool Room and showed me how to forms the hand bridges, start it from there when I was 65, I am now 77 still enjoying Billiards the last hobby in life. Thanks for your lesson I will watch your videos more from now on. Happy New Year!
Your videos have helped my game soooo much. I'm 40 now. Started playing at 14 thru my early 20s...then had 4 kids (not much time for the pool hall). I started up 5 months ago and can't believe how great I'm playing because of ur videos!!! Keep them coming
Holy shit Batman, I know this but something clicked and now it all comes together. Thanks for all your effort. Since following you on Utube I have jumped up one rating, in just two months.
dude...awesome info...I have watched and actually purchased a couple of Diamond Systems from coaches.. but your version is new and priceless territory for me...Thank You
The combination of two and three rail options in the same video clarified a lot. Even the mention of the four rail shot was enlightening. I would like to see a three rail side pocket demonstration. Very informative!
Excellent video It is easy to assume that when you use line 3 it would go to that other diamond but it was never before explained to me about the imaginary diamond that continues along the rail. This makes perfect sense and so do the adjustments you made .
It's really helpful.... I'm new in pool... I think your videos help me to know how to play perfect.. ❤ Oneday I'll be a good Player 😎 Love and Support from me😌.. From : USA
Thank you. Love your videos by the way. Very helpful. This really made this system easy to understand. I knew about it and can do it sometimes. but this was just a really great way of explaining it. I will be trying it out tomorrow during practice!
Thank you - I really enjoy your lessons. In this case, rather than splitting the differences, why not just use the "spot on the wall" technique for a random placement of the cue ball?
You can't consistently use that. It works great on your table at home but if you go to a bar or pool hall you don't have time to find it for each and every table.
@@seanwood4032 If I'm playing an unfamiliar table, I'll always hit a few bank shots to test cloth and rails. As a part of this, I use what you call reference line one from at least two corners. Once I establish the "error", if there is one, I know where to put my spot on the wall. I personally find this faster, easier and more accurate than trying to maintain the constant angle of splitting the difference. However, there are circumstances when there is no easy way to put a spot on the wall, so it's good to have both methods in your bag. Pretty much a personal choice as to which you pull out first (they both work). :)
Although I love all of your videos and how well you explain everything, this is by far one of best and it's helped me so much become a more consistent player all around. Thank you and keep up the great work!
This is a great way to line up kick shots so long as there are no other balls in your way. The problem is when you have a table full of balls and you need to make that corner shot. What I’d like to know more about is making bank shots. I’ve had a bank shot where an opponents ball was in the way, but I know there’s a way to use English with a bank shot to make it go around their ball and still make the shot. Could you make a video where you go into detail on how to do that and also how English and the speed you shoot a bank at will effect the path of the ball? It would be so helpful. Thanks for all the great pool info. I look forward to every video you make. Dee😁👍
Hi there. Thanks for your comment. This video is not about bank shots, but how the cueball path can be changed when hitting a rail. Through spin transfer this can be adapted to bank shots. Maybe there are some parts in it that will help you to understand bank shots more: ua-cam.com/video/hFeeCmo0ilM/v-deo.html
Good instruction. What about if an object ball is not on the line of any of the examples you gave? For instance it is 2 or three diamonds out of the lines you gave? What if it is closer to the side pocket for instance, but due to balls blocking the shot you need to hit it with three rails?
you could also adjust that first kick and the others, by taking the left off. that will cause it to move toward the pocket and in my opinion is better than aiming off on the diamonds.
On my table I use the 2.5 point and running english. I also use the spot on the wall to get the shot to work from different table positions. Depending on the speed of the shot I have good results.
At 5:24, why are you looking for the line in between those two, versus just adjusting and hitting the cushion with the same angle? Not sure if this question makes sense...
Nice video but I thought you'd teach a 2nd option for when the cue call isn't on the reference line, a system I use all the time that I find much easier, the 'Spot on the wall' technique.
Spot on the wall is easy, but it comes at the cost of being unreliable. It's not always possible to pick a spot on the wall due to people or other obstructions. And many tournaments are held in halls where there just isn't anything good to use as a reference. The distance from your reference to the table plays an important part in accuracy as well. So moving between different rooms can produce different results. All-in-all, you should use whatever tools you practice with. But understand that spot-on-the-wall does have its limitations. Personally, I use both. I use one to double check the other.
I really wish we could see who DISLIKED this video... cowardly dislike without a single negative comment. WOW! Great Video by the way!! thanks for sharing this.
I think it's important to keep in mind that the cue ball isn't actually heading towards the final target diamond like you said a couple of times, but to the RAIL directly in front of the diamond (or the imaginary diamond). Big difference there.
That's because of the adjustment I had to made because of this particular table. But usally it's indeed just aiming towards the diamond and not hitting the rail in front of the diamond.
@@Sharivari Thanks for the reply Shari! I used your diagrams to duplicate the system using the online pool table drawer you so generously provided. Very helpful. You are one smart guy! I wanted to print out copies to give to a friend. If I want to be more exact I guess I'll have to just figure out where the actual contact points are for the table we usually play on (a Valley bar box) since all tables are different. BTW - I tried this system yesterday and it works great! Thanks! Just curious, were you using the same 1" adjustment for all of your shots?
I have a 9 foot Rasson table and my cue ball ends always to the first diamond on the short rail. I have to appoint the first diamond after the middle pocket to end in the corner pocket.
Hi Shari, at 4:21 you show an image with a green area defined as " System Covered Area". What does it mean? Object ball must be inside that area or cue ball should start from there? I'll check myself asap.. ;) Really great video , thanks for sharing it!!
Hi Andrea. This means that the object ball has to be in this area. When the cueball hits the third rail it can reach the places in this area. A little more to the long rail and short rail is possible, but let's say this is the marked area is an "easily reachable area".
Sharivari Hi, great explanation. Please know that the cueball can also lie far outside of those areas depending on how the table is running. To make the proper adjustment, if you know approximately where the cueball will hit the 3rd rail, go from that diamond through where a ghost ball to cut your object ball would be. Where that line continues to pass through a diamond on the object ball side of the table, add it to your first rail hit point. Example: If the object ball is 1.5 diamonds up rail (or 1.8 or 1.3, wherever the ghost ball would be). If your 1st rail hit point were the 2 diamond, to now cut the objectball at the 1.5 diamond, add the 1.8 (distance to the ghost ball) to your original hit point, so 2 + 1.8 = 3.8. 3.8 now becomes your orignal hit point on the 1st rail. You can also make adjustments exactly how you did in the video for the cueball except you also would now need to do it the same way for the object ball from that 3rd rail hit point. So 1/2 of the parallel for the cueball adjustment. then add half of the parallel distance from your objectball to the 3rd rail hit spot. I make these shots and hits fairly frequently, even from near the middle of the table
Las tres referencias son buenas,tambien las referencias de si la blanca no esta en linea con los 🔶️. Ahora las refencias si la objetiva no esta en la llegada de las lineaspero esta cerca de las lineas,yo en particular me guiaria por el ultimo recorrido de las lineas,osea del ultimo 🔶️ a la llegada,si la objetiva esta cerca se esas lineas,entonces corrijo la salida de la blanca. El problema es si la objetiva es la que tiene que llegar en tres bandas a la tronera. Ese seria otro video. Saludos desde Panamá.🙋♂️🙋♂️🙋♂️🙋♂️
You said, “hit with TOP left” , Question, at that distance there will be no “top spin” when you contact the rail, so, why not just hit the cue ball with left spin at 9 o’clock?
I’m curious to why you didn’t keep the rail diamonds numbered 1, 2, 3 respectively, instead you have 1 in the middle? It just seems it would be easier to remember keeping them in order.
Hi Sharivari, I've always played this shot with the understanding diamond 2 on the third rail has a natural roll to the opposite corner pocket. Then I apply the math shooting from the corner pocket labeled diamond 5, to the third diamond along the first rail, should take you to diamond 2 on the third rail with natural roll to the corner. The math is 5 - 3 = 2. What I see you doing is 5 - 2 = 3 with the third diamond on the third rail having the natural roll toward the corner pocket. Of course, using high running English. Am I mistaken? Your system seems to work just fine, but it goes against what I have always believed since I learned this shot years ago...and, not always making it. Sometimes I do cheat the diamonds a little to make it work, so it's hard to tell if my 5 - 3 = 2 system actually works. I will try your system. Just confused. Thank you.
For that you have to get the feel or knowledge where the cue ball will hit the third rail. From there you measure to the last rail and know where the cue ball will travel. You also can predict it very well by just remembering the three spots of the reference lines and then adjust it depending on the situation.
In my pool hall have to aim exactly at the THIRD diamond (the diamond that follows the side pocket) with high left and it goes three rails into the corner pocket. Why is that? Can someone explain why this system doesn’t work in my pool hall?
When I do this shot on my table, the first diamond gets me in consistently, the following two get me one and two diamonds respectively on the short rail away from the pocket. Just a table thing?
There are a lot of variables that affect these shots. The type of cloth, the tightness of the cloth, the hardness or softness of the rails, the humidity, and even the temperature. Most of these will cause a difference of up to a couple inches max. If you are seeing consistent differences of a diamond or more, it's very likely the cloth or the rails. But keep in mind speed is also important. Make sure you are hitting hard enough to get around the table easily, but not so hard that you are compressing rails. English plays an important part as well, but using the wrong English will typically not even resemble the right shot.
Thanks it helped but if you can show all those shots from above of the table that would be much better and would be more comfortable to understand those shots much more easily
Yes this changes the path of the cueball. You could adjust for deflection or adjust your aiming point on the rail. Both will work - just personal preference.
Remember that the cue ball is changing direction after hitting the rail. Using "running" english helps it follow the natural path. You are not trying to put extra spin on the cue ball, just enough to keep from putting stun or reverse spin on it. Without this running english the cue ball is thrown off course.
This is the first kicking system that I've learned when I started to play pool seriously, so I thought it's time to put in a video lesson. It's very powerful and helped me many times when playing matches. If you have questions, just feel free to ask. I've put a lot of work into this one, so if you liked it - give me a thumbs up.
Enjoy your lesson!
Hey there! When useing this system, maybe you could've mentioned "the spot on the wall" in this video. Ofcourse , I know it really vary from table to table, and if it even is a spot on the wall you could follow! :)
Why high left? You say it again and again but you did not explain why.
@@marcooilman8360 Because thats the spin you need to get from those reference points to each diamond. There is no greater explanation.
Brilliant
high left in your examples yes, running english would be better
I’ve never learnt about this
Today will be a turning point of my pool life
Same though. Practice night!
I love this three rails banking so much, I forgot where and how I learn this shot but your instructions are very clear to follow, I will definitely watch this video over and over until I remember what’s diamonds for each object balls locations. I never know that I can play Pool until someone took my hand to a Pool Room and showed me how to forms the hand bridges, start it from there when I was 65, I am now 77 still enjoying Billiards the last hobby in life. Thanks for your lesson I will watch your videos more from now on. Happy New Year!
Your videos have helped my game soooo much. I'm 40 now. Started playing at 14 thru my early 20s...then had 4 kids (not much time for the pool hall). I started up 5 months ago and can't believe how great I'm playing because of ur videos!!! Keep them coming
That is awesome!
Holy shit Batman, I know this but something clicked and now it all comes together. Thanks for all your effort. Since following you on Utube I have jumped up one rating, in just two months.
I'll have to watch this about a dozen times. A million thx...u simplify things so well.
dude...awesome info...I have watched and actually purchased a couple of Diamond Systems from coaches.. but your version is new and priceless territory for me...Thank You
You're very welcome!
Great job on explaining this one,two and three diamond three rail kicking system. I am definitely practicing this.
The combination of two and three rail options in the same video clarified a lot. Even the mention of the four rail shot was enlightening. I would like to see a three rail side pocket demonstration. Very informative!
I was exactly looking for this! Much thanks bro! But folks remember without practice, u cannot do this...so good luck practicing and becoming better!
One of the best video I saw on snooker, kudos to the producer!
Excellent video It is easy to assume that when you use line 3 it would go to that other diamond but it was never before explained to me about the imaginary diamond that continues along the rail. This makes perfect sense and so do the adjustments you made .
It's really helpful.... I'm new in pool... I think your videos help me to know how to play perfect.. ❤ Oneday I'll be a good Player 😎
Love and Support from me😌..
From : USA
Thank you a lot buddy!
Great video, explained plainly and easy to digest. Thank you for making this video.
Ps feel free to make a 2 rail video as well 😁
That great video you posted works great for me. I like great information that works for me. Thanks for the video ❤❤❤😊
Thank you. Love your videos by the way. Very helpful. This really made this system easy to understand. I knew about it and can do it sometimes. but this was just a really great way of explaining it. I will be trying it out tomorrow during practice!
The best video I've ever seen on this topic. Subbed.
Thanks Mike!
Thank you - I really enjoy your lessons. In this case, rather than splitting the differences, why not just use the "spot on the wall" technique for a random placement of the cue ball?
You can't consistently use that. It works great on your table at home but if you go to a bar or pool hall you don't have time to find it for each and every table.
@@seanwood4032 If I'm playing an unfamiliar table, I'll always hit a few bank shots to test cloth and rails. As a part of this, I use what you call reference line one from at least two corners. Once I establish the "error", if there is one, I know where to put my spot on the wall. I personally find this faster, easier and more accurate than trying to maintain the constant angle of splitting the difference. However, there are circumstances when there is no easy way to put a spot on the wall, so it's good to have both methods in your bag. Pretty much a personal choice as to which you pull out first (they both work). :)
Thank you Sharivari this video is very helpful to all of us
Great instruction! Kudos to you for speaking at least (maybe more) languages.
Thanks man, this clears up some details I had been thinking about, and how to manage being in between; that is Vital!
Excellent lesson! Particularly the adjustment portion...thanks for sharing!
You're very welcome John!
Although I love all of your videos and how well you explain everything, this is by far one of best and it's helped me so much become a more consistent player all around. Thank you and keep up the great work!
Before I shoot the ball I always use the cue stick for measuring for angle shots before I shoot.
Your tutorials are really really well done ! thank you
This is a very solid system that should be practiced.
thank you for this lesson. very informative. i do understand how all tablles are"necessarily the same.
Very helpful and a great job explaining the system.
Good stuff. I learned this one as a point on the wall system.
This is a great way to line up kick shots so long as there are no other balls in your way. The problem is when you have a table full of balls and you need to make that corner shot.
What I’d like to know more about is making bank shots. I’ve had a bank shot where an opponents ball was in the way, but I know there’s a way to use English with a bank shot to make it go around their ball and still make the shot. Could you make a video where you go into detail on how to do that and also how English and the speed you shoot a bank at will effect the path of the ball? It would be so helpful. Thanks for all the great pool info. I look forward to every video you make. Dee😁👍
Hi there. Thanks for your comment. This video is not about bank shots, but how the cueball path can be changed when hitting a rail. Through spin transfer this can be adapted to bank shots. Maybe there are some parts in it that will help you to understand bank shots more:
ua-cam.com/video/hFeeCmo0ilM/v-deo.html
It was very clear information, and very useful, thanks
Great explanation to a great system - subbed.
God Bless.
Its not a system its memorizing 3 tracks
Good instruction. What about if an object ball is not on the line of any of the examples you gave? For instance it is 2 or three diamonds out of the lines you gave? What if it is closer to the side pocket for instance, but due to balls blocking the shot you need to hit it with three rails?
Excellent, it is very helpful. I will be practicing as soon as possible
Thanks for your videos. Always helpful.
Such a good easy to follow video!
Glad it was helpful!
you could also adjust that first kick and the others, by taking the left off. that will cause it to move toward the pocket and in my opinion is better than aiming off on the diamonds.
On my table I use the 2.5 point and running english. I also use the spot on the wall to get the shot to work from different table positions. Depending on the speed of the shot I have good results.
At 5:24, why are you looking for the line in between those two, versus just adjusting and hitting the cushion with the same angle? Not sure if this question makes sense...
this is so damn difficult, it gets me more motivated. thanks for the tutorial senpai.
This helped to make my kicking better
Nice video but I thought you'd teach a 2nd option for when the cue call isn't on the reference line, a system I use all the time that I find much easier, the 'Spot on the wall' technique.
Indeed " spot on the wall " is much easier!
Spot on the wall is easy, but it comes at the cost of being unreliable. It's not always possible to pick a spot on the wall due to people or other obstructions. And many tournaments are held in halls where there just isn't anything good to use as a reference. The distance from your reference to the table plays an important part in accuracy as well. So moving between different rooms can produce different results. All-in-all, you should use whatever tools you practice with. But understand that spot-on-the-wall does have its limitations. Personally, I use both. I use one to double check the other.
As always, great videos. Thanks.
Excellent lesson.
i'm learning a lott with your videos. thank you!
Your a fine teacher
I really wish we could see who DISLIKED this video... cowardly dislike without a single negative comment. WOW!
Great Video by the way!! thanks for sharing this.
me.
it was probably some one who don't want pool players to give all the secrets away
Great video. Super informative!
Thank you!
@Sharivari can you tell me the details on your camera setup? Considering starting a channel on pool instruction and like your setup.
Thanks for refining a system I use often.
Great Video, excited to try it out!
Great lesson, thank you!
great video i 'll apply this in my snooker game! thx👍
Appreciate the lesson. Thank you sir
I think it's important to keep in mind that the cue ball isn't actually heading towards the final target diamond like you said a couple of times, but to the RAIL directly in front of the diamond (or the imaginary diamond). Big difference there.
That's because of the adjustment I had to made because of this particular table. But usally it's indeed just aiming towards the diamond and not hitting the rail in front of the diamond.
@@Sharivari Thanks for the reply Shari! I used your diagrams to duplicate the system using the online pool table drawer you so generously provided. Very helpful. You are one smart guy! I wanted to print out copies to give to a friend. If I want to be more exact I guess I'll have to just figure out where the actual contact points are for the table we usually play on (a Valley bar box) since all tables are different. BTW - I tried this system yesterday and it works great! Thanks! Just curious, were you using the same 1" adjustment for all of your shots?
@@rawhideleather Yes indeed, I adjusted the same for all of my shots. And sorry for latre reply, I was a little busy :)
Great...very useful!!!!Thank you Sharivari!!!
I prefer the system that Scott lee teaches. But if it works for you that’s good, video was very well done
If you needed to play an object ball in the reverse orientation, would you in turn use top left English?
OMG!!! I'll have to watch this again n again. Good instruction.....just i can be an idiot sometimes
Great stuff and well explained. Subbed!
So much useful video for as i am a noob player,ha ha. Take love from Bangladesh.
@Tixe 100 Thanks bro,I took it as my inspiration. Have a nice pool carrier ahead!
I enjoy your videos very much.
Very good video. Thank you.
I have a 9 foot Rasson table and my cue ball ends always to the first diamond on the short rail. I have to appoint the first diamond after the middle pocket to end in the corner pocket.
Very helpful. Thank you for sharing your knowledge.
You're very welcome :)
You can also hit straight low back spin and get the same shot without the fourth bank
Do some pool table manufacturers malposition the diamonds or is it all dependent on the condition of the cloth and rails?
Hi Shari, at 4:21 you show an image with a green area defined as " System Covered Area". What does it mean? Object ball must be inside that area or cue ball should start from there? I'll check myself asap.. ;) Really great video , thanks for sharing it!!
Hi Andrea. This means that the object ball has to be in this area. When the cueball hits the third rail it can reach the places in this area. A little more to the long rail and short rail is possible, but let's say this is the marked area is an "easily reachable area".
@@Sharivari Great, thanks for the clarification .
Sharivari Hi, great explanation. Please know that the cueball can also lie far outside of those areas depending on how the table is running. To make the proper adjustment, if you know approximately where the cueball will hit the 3rd rail, go from that diamond through where a ghost ball to cut your object ball would be. Where that line continues to pass through a diamond on the object ball side of the table, add it to your first rail hit point. Example: If the object ball is 1.5 diamonds up rail (or 1.8 or 1.3, wherever the ghost ball would be). If your 1st rail hit point were the 2 diamond, to now cut the objectball at the 1.5 diamond, add the 1.8 (distance to the ghost ball) to your original hit point, so 2 + 1.8 = 3.8. 3.8 now becomes your orignal hit point on the 1st rail. You can also make adjustments exactly how you did in the video for the cueball except you also would now need to do it the same way for the object ball from that 3rd rail hit point. So 1/2 of the parallel for the cueball adjustment. then add half of the parallel distance from your objectball to the 3rd rail hit spot. I make these shots and hits fairly frequently, even from near the middle of the table
Do you allow for cue ball deflection when aiming for the diamond with this method?
Las tres referencias son buenas,tambien las referencias de si la blanca no esta en linea con los 🔶️.
Ahora las refencias si la objetiva no esta en la llegada de las lineaspero esta cerca de las lineas,yo en particular me guiaria por el ultimo recorrido de las lineas,osea del ultimo 🔶️ a la llegada,si la objetiva esta cerca se esas lineas,entonces corrijo la salida de la blanca.
El problema es si la objetiva es la que tiene que llegar en tres bandas a la tronera.
Ese seria otro video.
Saludos desde Panamá.🙋♂️🙋♂️🙋♂️🙋♂️
Taught me something! Thanks
Great lesson!! Thanks.
Hi Does this system work in 7’ table? I
Love your videos. Thank you.
Wow awesome video
You said, “hit with TOP left” ,
Question, at that distance there will be no “top spin” when you contact the rail,
so, why not just hit the cue ball with left spin at 9 o’clock?
I’m curious to why you didn’t keep the rail diamonds numbered 1, 2, 3 respectively, instead you have 1 in the middle? It just seems it would be easier to remember keeping them in order.
Probably yes. But I use the middle one as my reference, that's why I numbered it with one.
This is such a useful system.
What if you are on the right side of the table instead of the left? Would u use top right or keep it top left?
Then you would use the opposite (top right). Always use the english that helps the cueball running.
@@Sharivari ok thank you so much! This system has already helped my win my bar house tournament!!
Verändert sich was dadurch, das ich einen schmaleren tisch benutze oder ist die tischgröße egal ?
Is there a difference in example a 7 8 or 9 ft table with the pad of the cue ball
No, because the ratio is the same.
Thankyou for your valuable help.
I bet Chris Melling used this system recently for some tournament...
;)
Great stuff
Excellent
What if you put the que ball on 7 short rail shoot the cueat object ball on three stop
Awesome 👍
In my 8 ft table, this doesn't work. Will it only apply to 9ft one? Thanks.
Works on any table
Hi Sharivari, I've always played this shot with the understanding diamond 2 on the third rail has a natural roll to the opposite corner pocket. Then I apply the math shooting from the corner pocket labeled diamond 5, to the third diamond along the first rail, should take you to diamond 2 on the third rail with natural roll to the corner. The math is 5 - 3 = 2. What I see you doing is 5 - 2 = 3 with the third diamond on the third rail having the natural roll toward the corner pocket. Of course, using high running English. Am I mistaken? Your system seems to work just fine, but it goes against what I have always believed since I learned this shot years ago...and, not always making it. Sometimes I do cheat the diamonds a little to make it work, so it's hard to tell if my 5 - 3 = 2 system actually works. I will try your system. Just confused. Thank you.
What if the objection ball is in the middle or close to the middle of the table and you have to kick at it?
For that you have to get the feel or knowledge where the cue ball will hit the third rail. From there you measure to the last rail and know where the cue ball will travel. You also can predict it very well by just remembering the three spots of the reference lines and then adjust it depending on the situation.
In my pool hall have to aim exactly at the THIRD diamond (the diamond that follows the side pocket) with high left and it goes three rails into the corner pocket. Why is that? Can someone explain why this system doesn’t work in my pool hall?
Are the rails slippery? Try using it without english and without high. Maybe the middle diamond works then.
Could this work for 3 rail banks?
THANK YOU ..!
Thank you
wonderful
When I do this shot on my table, the first diamond gets me in consistently, the following two get me one and two diamonds respectively on the short rail away from the pocket. Just a table thing?
There are a lot of variables that affect these shots. The type of cloth, the tightness of the cloth, the hardness or softness of the rails, the humidity, and even the temperature. Most of these will cause a difference of up to a couple inches max. If you are seeing consistent differences of a diamond or more, it's very likely the cloth or the rails. But keep in mind speed is also important. Make sure you are hitting hard enough to get around the table easily, but not so hard that you are compressing rails. English plays an important part as well, but using the wrong English will typically not even resemble the right shot.
Thanks so much...
Thanks it helped but if you can show all those shots from above of the table that would be much better and would be more comfortable to understand those shots much more easily
If I'm aiming towards the diamonds and then i use high english won't the ball change its path due to the English ?
Yes this changes the path of the cueball. You could adjust for deflection or adjust your aiming point on the rail. Both will work - just personal preference.
Remember that the cue ball is changing direction after hitting the rail. Using "running" english helps it follow the natural path. You are not trying to put extra spin on the cue ball, just enough to keep from putting stun or reverse spin on it. Without this running english the cue ball is thrown off course.
UK tables do not have the ease of markers around the cushion. Pockets are tighter too.