Hand Laying Highly Detailed Railroad Turnouts
Вставка
- Опубліковано 25 кві 2020
- This week we are hand laying a crossover switch on our large scale railroad. Using both commercially available as well as scratch-built components.
We are laying on hand-cut red cedar ties and using home cast tie plates and point slide rail braces as well as Llagas Creek cast points and frog. Following Denver and Rio Grande Western narrow gauge practices based on photographs taken in and around Durango Colorado, we are preparing the switch to function by hand from a brass switch stand. In our next show on track laying, we will look at ways to set up the switch stands and build linkages.
We are currently laying track in the indoor switching yard, much of our garden railroad is indoor but plans call for the bulk of it to be outside in the garden.
The indoor sections are all hand laid on nickel silver code 250 and code 210 often on white metal tie plates. As of now, the plans call for using commercially available prefab track outside.
model-railroad-hobbyist.com/n... - Авто та транспорт
That's some sophisticated screwing around.
I have seen people hand lay HO scale track, individual ties, tie plates, spikes, and rails. So cool.
And many n scale people using “fast tracks”. Really easy way to hand lay a tiny n scale switch even in code 55!
@@ToyManTelevision its amazing how detailed you can get with this hobby.
Happy Sunday, Dale and Karen!
Back at ya! STAY SAFE!!
Beautiful handcrafted rail tracks!
Really fun. Building switch stands right now.
I really enjoyed this video. I like how you say that you do not need to be a rocket scientist and yet your opening logo is of the Toy Man on a rocket. Intentional?
When you get right down to it rocket 🚀 science is not rocket science
When the covid virus blows over you should host a UA-cam meet up. I live in Western South Dakota and would make an attempt to go.
Awesome job! Your switching layout is looking great. One idea that I have for your switch links is to take a look at RC aircraft linkage. There are several styles to choose from, and they can be either threaded or soldered to length.
Thank you once again for another great video!
Oh, BTW, my wife and I had driven down to the old ghost town of Dragon o the old Uintah Railway. We had also driven up Baxter pass as far as we could until we had came up to the snowdrift, which was about 14.2 miles south from the Colorado Utah border. While out there I had found a few more narrow gauge RR spikes, tie plates, and splice plate bolts. It was a fun trip!
Your turnouts are scale masterpieces,and your attention to detail is second to none.Your Railroad will look superb ken when finished...top marks to sir.
Thanks!!
Great awesome lay out so far awesome hand-built rail switch
Hi just set the first switch stand. Works great!! Next Sunday’s show. See ya then.
Totally fascinating & creative screwing around. Just be glad you have Karyn & that I'm not there to "help" you! 😁 You are so talented! Greetings from our Lockdown Looneyland near Disneyland here in Southern California! I need a triple strength martini!!! 🍸🍸😆
Strange times. But good times to stay in and write a book or build a layout or learn to play the ukulele.
Fascinating! I was surprised to see the box car through the switch in one direction, then when rolled back, took the switch. I didn't know they did that! I like that scale for the train.
The points tend to spring shut. Which is great! So it acts like a spring switch.
I was wondering if it was an automatic switch that only worked one way on purpose... The train at Dollywood uses a single track that switches, does a circle, and then goes the other direction on the same track and I've always wondered how they changed directions without throwing a switch!
Riveting stuff...can't wait for next sitting 👍👍👍❤️😎
Riveting? Good idea. I was going to solder.
Great craftsmanship!
Hi and THANKS
Thanks. Awesome.
Very exact and flawless functional.
Greetings from Munich and another G-scale lover, Tom.
Nice layout.
Cool layout.
Awesome. I’m definitely going to give it a whirl..at least once.
Do!! It’s fun.
Nice. I Think I will!
I started my curved switch build 😲
Nice work
Thanks.
That's a lot of work Toyman.... Nice job!
It’s a lot of fun!
Thank you for sharing your video & information.
I figured it would be nice to build my own switches vs. buying them. 👍
Great video. Looks really nice.
Thanks. Really coming together and FUN!!
Very informative video. Thank you for Sharing. Mr. Bill CNW
Fun doing it.
I don't know why I'm telling you this because you have way more skill, knowledge, tools, etc than I do, but I noticed you were using the fibre type cutting disc in the Dremel. I recently "invested" (it was about £6) in a 2" diamond cutting disc for mine and it's made all the difference when cutting rail stock.
One big difference was being able to keep the tool parallel to the rail instead of ending up with an angled cut you have to spend more time dressing square. Anyway, that's enough from the apprentice to the master! ;-)
Hi
I started by using the thin composite disc. In the video it breaks! So I switched to the heaver disc. Same size really. But it all that fits my Dremel tool. As works fine, but does as you say cut at a slight angle. BUT I have a lot of clean up to do on the casting, so squaring that up is easy.
I know before I said that looks intimidating and a challenge but now it looks like fun! Great work!- Joey
awesome job toy man great looking layout :-)
Next Sunday we are building and setting switch stands!
Beautiful work on your part. Unfortunately for my sanity I will buy my turnouts. The hobby has to be fun.
My hudsband love you videos. He also like your videos where you can see the Utah's landscape, where he served his mission. Greetings from The Nehterlands!
Oh I love it there!!!!!! We were planning a trip to see miniature wonderland and a stopover in Amsterdam. Then the virus came to town. Now we can’t cross the street. Oh to be out in the Dutch countryside this time of year.
Still beautiful work ! !
Great work, absolutely beautiful turnouts and crossover. Love your narration of the progress. The white metal casting is definitely something to look into.
Wow! You can do it all. Great modeling!
Thanks!!!! Today working on switch lanterns.
beautiful work, looks like a lot of fun at that scale, NOW try it in code 40 N scale, come over for a visit!!
Right! I laid a bunch of HOn3 in code 55. Challenging and fun.
Glad you guys are doing alright and are busy with the model railroading, the older guys like us get just seems like more time of nothing until we get into a hobby like this!
Can’t wait to see the finished product!
Us too. But the sad part of that is no more track to lay. So new section!!
Well done and coming along nicely, thanks!
Working on #3 and 7 switch stands now. 5 switches total in the yard.
Always love your show. You guys look like you have so much fun together!
That we do!!
Great video, Dale! 30 years ago I found that G scale is certainly much easier to work with than HO! So why am I building in On30?
Because it’s fun!! And you can still do amazing things.
Wickedly awesome. Working with a size you actually can see. Great job. Can’t wait to see the linkage video or the corresponding end on the other track. Take care and keep on tracking.
I'm loving these process videos! When you have hobbies your never bored, even in today's weird world! Take care you two! xo Lisa
You too. Strange times but fun hobbies
I been meaning to say, I like the new Sunday opening montage you edited together.
Thanks. I made that fir working in the shop. And on the layout.
Wow, that is a very nice switch that you put together. Good job.
thanks! Best switch Ive ever built. And Ill bet Ive built 20 or so. so by now I should be getting better at it. The next one (not in the video) also came out nice. Better? And I;'m now on #3 for the caboose track!
Very nice job . looking forward to seeing a train going over the rails . thank you and have a great weekend
Putting DCC to it soon!
Excellent video and incredibly informative. Thank you for posting...
Really enjoyed handling turn outs it’s so relaxing and fun.
That was fun to watch. Nice work.
Thanks for watching it!!
Very nice.....loved the casting content also!
I love that I can cast parts. Saves money I guess, but mostly fun to look at the finished product as think, that was a bar of metal and a board. And now...
You are the modern John Allen. So cool. Thanks for the inspiration. My G scale is a loop around my back yard. Again very cool.
Gee. John Allen. He inspires all of us. But I’m no John Allan. Anyway my outdoor was a dog bone. Went all the way around the back yard then back on the same track. Really felt like the train was going somewhere rather than just around. Really loved that.
I love the detail, and they look great. I think you're on the right track. : )
Punishment. Nice. And I now have 2 right tracks. And a choice. Or is that one right one left...
Very cool, the work your doing is so much like the real railroad. Gonna be an epic layout. Looking forward to the next episode
👍👍👍😎😎😎 Cary
Next week we are off to see an old mill. But then back to the layout
Looking good
very cool looks awesome thanks
Thanks!
Awsome technique, looks great, congratulations, Best regards from Mexico
Hi!! What part of Mexico? Karyn has family there.
Really nicely. All the details. Metal rail joiners at the frog kind of blows it
Very interesting.. Looks awesome....
Hi. And fun to do!! Working on switch #3 right now. 5 total in the yard area. But really enjoying this!
Very informative. Thanks. Since I have the machine tools I offered to mill points etc., so that the local model RR club could hand lay a G scale turnout. I've been trying to reverse engineer the points on a commercial turnout so they can lay a turnout with a bigger radius. After seeing your video I'm thinking that scaling the prototype is more practical. I see where my 3D printer may be just the thing for tie plates, the frog, etc.
Very interesting. A long time ago, I made 3 switches by taking measurement of a Peco Oe16.5 with a caliper, without a gauge. It's working, but it still has from time to time some glitches. Next time, I will use the gauge!
Smaller is much harder. I gauge is necessary. But doesn’t exist in large #1 gauge
Nicely done! Beautifully...I just think if somehow you could go back in time to say 1870s you could write your own ticket. The detail in that switch was really awesome!
Thanks! Really loving the “work”.
Nice Day today. OK.
I Love your layout OK.
Very well done!
I plan on creating a 3 rail model railroad for operational purposes but I want to run a double loop with switches and one or two siding around my three rail layout.
Only a few more years for retirement!
16:58 Looks very nice :)
Looks awesome Dale! NBW Detail in HO scale like yours...would be nice. 😁 got to many turnouts already built!
Have you looked at fast tracks? All the n people are using that but I think the offer Ho and larger.
Toy Man Television oh no, most all my dual gauge is handlaid in place, code 55
Hi hero! Hop you guys are doing good, you've done an awesome job on your track work, I hadn't been able to get back with y'all I've been in the hospital, I finally escaped 🙃 I got caught screwing around 🤣 i'll catch up last couple of videos, I'm looking forward to seeing your rail road you've waited a long time to get it up and running, be safe I'll talk to you soon
Amazing ...
Thanks!
I will be hand laying in On42 ( colonial gauge) using Code 83 and 70 rail. Gauge 7/8" ( same as S)
The videos of tracklaying in smaller and larger scales will both be of assistance.
My Turnouts ( "points" ) will be close to prototype ( #16 to #24), with a radius of 66" ( = 4 chains) to 132" ( 8 chains).
Tie plates will be brass shim, dogspikes brass or steel ( HO size).
Composite card or wood Ties, cork roadbed, etc.
The composite card is Three sheets of Coca-Cola carton F-flute corrugated Board, laminated to show bare brown outer surface, and Guillotine cut to
3/16" Wide x 1-3/4" long.
1:48 scale gives excellent Inch scale measurements, and the Prototype Specs are all Imperial, wooden rolling stock pre-
1945.
Great Videos...recorded them to Hard drive for ongoing reference.
Australia.
Thx again
Thanks for watching!!
Cool stuff.Ty
Thanks for watching. More coming!
I want to sit and stare at the switch awhile! Can you take a picture of it from above to show the whole of it? It’s AMAZING!!!!
Next week we are looking at an old mill. But the following week back on the layout and I’m hoping to have power. Anyway yes. A good shot of the whole crossover
Toy Man Television THANK YOU!!! Love this stuff!
really intresseting to see it :)
It’s really fun doing too
@@ToyManTelevision that is to see in your result :D
More great stuff (and yes, that is indeed "some sophisticated screwing around"! But if and when I decide to do something similar, likely in O scale, I will know where to look for guidance.
If you look at the videos on Jim Harper his track is my inspiration. All O standard. Proto 48. ua-cam.com/video/NRoKOzP_J-4/v-deo.html
@@ToyManTelevision Thanks! Yes!
J'ai rien compris, mais j'ai vu. Votre travail est magnifique. (french)
My French is horrid. Forgot so much. But enough to say GEE! Thanks!! More coming soon
Wow Great job brother 🚂🚂🚂🚂
Next week we are OUT OF THE HOUSE!! Went off to check out an old mill near there. We were never on
"lock down" just told to avoid people. So driving around was actually encouraged.
@@ToyManTelevision Friday are governor said we can go on our power boats and go fishing Thursday we would have had to use our canoes these people are crazy
You amaze me! Your attention to detail of off the chart! I wonder how your method would work on my 3 rail O Gauge?
It depends. Standard gauge O can be done just like this. But 3 rail sort of alters the whole deal. Did you look at the two shows on Jim harpers o scale? I’m copying his details. ua-cam.com/video/NRoKOzP_J-4/v-deo.html
@@ToyManTelevision Consider that on my thing's to do list for the day.
Nice job, I use Fast Tracks for my HO, still a lot of filing. Those parts are really nice. Saw glimpse of throw bar, maybe brass or aluminum square tube or? Maybe RC airplane clevis? God Bless Ya Dave
I have a new plan. Been worried about electricity across the points. Going with a new plan. Testing it. But the point slides also short the whole thing out so the throw bar isn’t really a thing. Anyway may go with circuit board after all
@Toy Man Television >>> You are really _"going off the rails"_ to make this stuff!
😊😊😊
I miss Al!
Wow yes!!! damn.....
I wanted to order a couple of things from you but but wound up in the hospital so my screwing around got put on hold temporarily but now that I've a escaped I can get back to what I do best 😎 I'll talk to you later yall take care
Wow!!! Hope it’s over what ever it was. Do stay well!! And safe! And in!
@@ToyManTelevision thanks yes sir I had a dam stroke I told my buddies I didn't feel good so I drove to the emergency room and told them I didn't feel good they checked my vitals and my heart rate was down to 43 needless to say they took me in undressed in hospital gown and was there for 10 days and I so glad I was to escape 😉 I'm doing much better and feel better than I had in a good while
So because of your recent garden railroad videos, my brother went from "i don't understand the appeal" to " okay, now I understand why people do this. I am kinda interested!"
Its a mixed bag. Lots of work. You gotta love gardening. And trains. Its its own thing. I like the indoor stuff more, hence putting so much inside. Outside will be a loop 4 feet up as the knees don't like gardening anymore.
@@ToyManTelevision so have a garden, building up the infrastructure for it, garden dies, and then build a railroad? Lol
My old railroad was really fun that way. Not a garden at all just a railroad went around the outside of the yard for hundreds of feet. Right at ground level. It really felt like trains just going off into the distance like a real train would. But even back from getting down on hands and knees to work on it was sort of a pain.
WOW
Thanks
nice
thanks!
Well you make sure that you reenact the driving of the golden spike there!
Making the spike now!
Oh, and a mahogany tie as well!!
Amazing amount of work to make the switch. I am guessing that it would have been easier with a template. Please explain how you will wire the switch. Thanks and stay safe!
When I used to lay HO I took a template to kinkos and made a few copies and just glued one to the roadbed. And laid out everything right on the paper. And that ballasted you hide the paper. But the standards for #1 gauge are loose. So I’m copying one of Mikes (Llagas) switches and laying out with a ruler.
You are a person who lives by "Do smarter, not harder!" Fantastic!!!!!
Thanks for the track laying primer. Going to save that for later this summer or early fall when I will need it. A question: a few shots show your green work mat. Is that a self healing mat you can cut on and what are the dimensions? As usual, very informative AND entertaining. 😎 Tom Kibbe
Yup. Those mats are great. Don’t really “heal”. But the cuts close up. Mostly. I ruin them anyway usually with glue. Of burn it. Oops.
From a track foreman, the curved stock rail should have an angle bent in the rail to match the angle of the opposite point as that point contacts the straight stock rail and the heel of the point is where it is supposed to be to allow wheel flanges room similar to the flangeway and guardrail. AREA railroad plans specify how far from the switch point the stock angle is to be for each switch point length. A scale length of about 6 inches will be adequate so the point of the straight through point will be "hidden" behind the gauge line for wheel flanges not to pick the point. Bending the stock rail to the switch angle is 'putting stock in the rail'. I have seen how far in front of the switch point the bend is supposed to be but I can't find it right now.
Turnouts for railroads typically have the switch points and frog straight so no special parts are needed for right hand or left hand. Trolley trackage has curved frogs and curved switches to save space.
A switch rod to hold the points together can be made from copper coated electrical board with the copper cut through so there is no short between the rails and small bolts or brads for the pins. That will keep the switch points from flipping up as equipment rides over the points. The heels of switch points are always spaced so they are loose in the bars so the points may be thrown. Modern No 20, No 24 , & No 30 switches have the points welded to the closure rails and rely on rail spring for the movement but the lengths are 39 or more feet.
Wow thanks! I’ve seen the sharp bend at the points and that makes sense. Most modelers I know notch the stock rail so the points close right inside the stock rail but in a large scale that looks silly. I think. My going to sperment on my next switch with the sharp bend thanks. The throw rod is tricky. Well not to get it to work but to look real. In this size you can’t get away with anything. But a 100% accurate throw bar is too weak. So I’m messing. Ordered some circuit board. Experimenting.
@@ToyManTelevision I did some looking and CSX & UP have the vertex of the stock rail 8 1/4 inch in front of the switch point but those switch points are longer. Somewhere between 6 and 8 inches ought to work. Remember that switch points are 11 feet to 39 feet or more long and have a heel space of 4 1/2 to about 6 inches so the angles are going to be small. The switch points you are using look to be about a scale 11 feet; which makes the switch angle 1 degree 57' 13". Most switch points are either 1/8 inch or 1/4 inch thick so that is how much you need to hide from the wheel flanges. Sketch the layout on paper or cardboard to get an idea of what you are dealing with. Good luck with it. Just for grins, giggles, chuckles, and laughs I ran the calculation for proportion of 4.5 inches over at 11 feet is 7.3 inches. So if you put the vertex at 7 to 7.25 inches you will be fine.
Interesting. This whole time i was wondering why you didnt solder the rails together instead of the non prototype metal connectors. Many years ago when i had a model railroad i would solder the rails together (except the plastic connectors) and then paint the rails.
Hello, great video. I am fascinated by your ring with the multiple bands, do you add a new band after a certain anniversary? Thanks, Scott.
No it’s a puzzle ring! When we were picking out wedding rings I don’t know it’s just sort of looks like fun you can take it off and mess around with it all right now I’ve got it glued in place so I can’t come apart because it takes about two hours to figure out to put it back together
@@ToyManTelevision Very cool. Love your videos, Scott.
Great explanation. How does it compare to stub ended switches?
Well the frog is the same! I’ve laid stub switches and even thrown full sided ones. Or been thrown by them! The reason the arm is about 8 feet long is you need that kind of leverage to bend even 35 pound rail!!
When the Coshocton RR club had to move to a new location at the Coshocton Fairgrounds, they were given one of the full size lever frames from a local tower being torn down. They incorporated this into the concrete floor of the building and use it to control signals and turnouts in an adjacent town. You still have some full size switch stands, right dale? Why not set them up to control turnouts on the outside portion of the layout! There will need to be some engineering to reduce the throw travel, sure, but the novelty of it all!
Cool idea and he would get to use "scale" working turnout locks.
Beautiful work and wonderful explanation and comparison of and between the prototype and the model. I would say that a couple of times I had to take a double take to figure out which was which. But, that would be telling the truth. WOW! Question: The front track to the right of the cross over is a bit short. From camera view it appears to be only a car and a half long. Intentional, or planned manifest destiny later on through the backdrop? Just counting rivets. I'm glad Micro Engineering works in your scale.... One of my last remaining ME switches (of the original 35) is coming out next week. Adjusting it one more time will kill it. If I had all that money back I could afford toilet paper.
Hi! The purpose for that crossover is has to run the engine around the train after pulling into the stub yard. So that little Track has to be just long enough to hold a locomotive because every inch used there is an inch of yard track that I lose out on. So I know my big engines will never fit down there but I’m sort of basing the whole thing on the C 19. This way a train can be pulled into track one locomotive unhooked and run around it on track two, pull the whole train out by the backend and shove it into track three. At least that’s my plan. As I don’t actually do operations it’s more of a mental game than anything.
@@ToyManTelevision 10-4.. Copy that. Now it makes sense. I had the locomotive on the wrong end of the train. Kinda like my life at times.
Thank you Dale and Karyn for another spectacular episode. Here's something you might be interested in. God bless, and looking forward to Tuesday's video.
ua-cam.com/video/kRLbS226dqA/v-deo.html
You referred to a micrometer at the beginning. It is actually a digital caliper. mic's are a totally different animal
Yup. Oops.
how do you plan on powering your track and will you be able to control the power by a remote or a standard transformer?
All of the above. Im going to run DC from a remote control. Also DCC from my phone. AND some of the big locos are "dead rail" onboard power and radio control.
@@ToyManTelevision cool. At the rate your project is going, how long untill you try to run a locomotive in your yard?
Another term for throwing a switch is to bend a switch. Or bend the iron.
Yup. Refers to the older stub switch where you had to actually bend the rail!!
May I ask where you got the g scale snap in track gauges,please?
Micro engineering. Their website is down. Don’t know why… Walthers has some of their line. But don’t know about the gauges. I bought mine on their website .
@@ToyManTelevision very good and Thank You sir! Love your videos!❤️❤️
hello, my name is cool and i'm from Brazil,
THERE IS NO TRAIN ON THE G 1: 22.5 SCALE but I love this scale, I am making my own wagons here, I would like to know how to acquire these castings that you make for fiction on the tracks.
Check the website Llagas Creek. Mike over there has everything
I want to build these detail tracks like this where can I get this for my g scale?
Hi. I make everything except the rail which I get from Llagas Creek. Google them. They have these components.
Where do you get your rail spikes?
Micro engineering
would be interested in buying parts for switch tracks and track plates
Talk to mike or Brian at Llagas Creek Railway
Maybe you can help me, Please.
I need a L H #8 switch hand built for my Zn2 home layout. Thanks
Sounds like a job for Fast Tracks - www.handlaidtrack.com/fixtures-zm
If the don't have the template you need, just ask I'm sure they can mill a set for you as they are built to order.
Where you buy tracks if you tell all trivkcs how Made hsndsome rail layout
Hi. I now get all my rail at Llagas Creek. I have gotten it from micro engendering but Llagas is better. The two should not be mixed! Slightly different sizes.
With the death of Aristocraft, it seems that code 332(?) stainless steel rail has fallen out of vogue in 45mm gage. Is there a supplier that has come to fill this void in the market? I like running my trains more than cleaning my track.
Not sure on code 332. But Llagas and micro Engineering have code 250 which I’m usinghere. But planning on code 332 outside so I hope.
Awesome looking turnout. Now how to do this in N gauge? HMMMMM.
Try fast tracks! Really.