I love the work you do on instagram; I paint model horses quite often for commissions and for myself, and I have done a lot with stripping paint and fretting over getting all the paint off...but I learned recently that sanding like you explain doesn't even effect the quality of my work. I spent so much extra time stripping that I feel silly but happy I learned and practiced this! My whites have also improved SIGNIFICANTLY since watching your whites painting tutorial. Thank you for all the work you do to make these videos!!
I’ve been customizing for years and every single model I’ve done I’ve had to start over. I haven’t produced a single horse I’m proud of. 😂 I have like 7 or 8 horses I have in a bucket because I gotta get my customizing game on. I’m waiting until after I move though because customs are chalky and easy to scratch.
Hi!! Thank you so much for your great tutorials! I have a question: In an original traditional or classical breyer model, for customizing it, is it neccesarily to strip the whole model for repainting? or it's just fine to sand it a little bit and then apply the primer over the existing original paint that the models come from? Thank you so much!
Thank you for your videos! They have been so helpful getting me started! I have a glossy Copperfox and was considering a custom design, but I'm not sure how to strip the gloss? Is that possible?
If it is original finish- factory gloss you can prime right over it. If it is a custom gloss done by yourself or someone else- you will need to strip it
So I did get hold of rust-oleum primer I finished priming him earlier and I intend to use pastels on him. However when he had just dried I caught my grandmother touching him after I told her not to because of oils on her hand. Is there a way to remove those marks before I use my pastels? If not I had the idea that I could turn him into a paint to remove the marks of her finger prints that will show up in the pastels. Do you have any advice on fixing it before the pastel phase or should I cover them up with white markings?
As an alternative, you can buy Gesso and paint it on. You have to use some sort of surface primer, so the paint has tooth to stick to, otherwise it will just chip off.
Ive never had problems with temperatures and priming. But I don’t leave the models outside to dry when it’s overly hot or cold, I bring them in. I prime successfully through both the summer and winter. Neutral temperatures definitely work best.
@@mongooseodon7608 The primer is important as it provides a solid foundation for the paint to stick to. It also gives you a opaque and even layer to paint on top of. If you paint straight onto a smooth surface model, it will be really easy to chip and hard to cover.
I just recently got a duplicate of the 1st thoroughbred filly I ever bought with my own money. The new one has white hooves that I'm pretty sure we're somebody's custom work. But that's all she has. I'm still so thankful you've made tutorials and videos. You're showing me its OK to not be "perfect" 100% of the time. Forever grateful
I have just recently started to explore with painting models, I have started with the unpainted stablemates, before watching this tutorial I did use very fine sandpaper removed the logo and seams, the only type of primer I had available was a gesso. Do you notice a major difference in the finish? Also is it difficult to remove and start all over again? I dont have a drummer but I have a nail art tool for acrylic nails and I found it worked really well at removing the seams of the model in tight places! I started my very first model the other day on the rearing Andalusian. I noticed a heavy groove on his nose, concave. Would that be an opportunity to use epoxy sculpt? I have some knowledge as an art school student but my major was photo/film. I took sculpting and painting but never on plastic or resin etc. So im feeling my way around a bit! I love your tutorials! You are such a beautiful talented young woman! I wish I stuck with my love of horses! I am looking to learn and grow and enjoy every last minute of this reignited hobby! I also wanted to put a warning out there for others looking to buy cheaper models of favorite retired molds, I recently googled Gypsy Vanner which i love to see if i could find one reasonable to repaint etc when I did and you hit view all and see this in stock green I curiously visited. This site used the same models and of the Othello mold and esprit mold yet called them all GV! I thought that strange so tried contacting them, no reply so I did a search of the URL and name. Scam!!!! I am very meticulous before I spend esp if they dont offer paypal! I just wanted to give newer hobbyists like myself a warning buyer beware sometimes a good deal is too good to be true! I have been looking a while and I know these molds usually would never go under 100$ but I couldn’t help but get excited when I saw the 41.88 tag on it! But also on the stablemates and every other retired mold. Seemed strange! I was right! IDK how to report but these sharks are out there waiting to prey on enthusiasts esp cash poor ones! Its hard enough building up our collections and equipment to custom! So I thank you for your wonderful videos and hope to learn with and meet others like myself! We must look out for each other! Young new experienced and the like! I love your patient technique btw! I get so anxious and excited when i start but Im falling in love with the process! I have a ways to go before I show anything yet! Thank you again DeeJayBe! You have a new fan, and fellow hobbyist! I do have one last question, have you ever attempted to sculpt before? Its not easy, and its something Id like to try with horses this tike around! blessings and beautiful painting to everyone!
Good stuff! I'd add a fan to blow the spray downwind, a proper spray painting mask, and a portable small ceramic heater (not too close) to the models to speed drying. If you set them on silicone mats (as in for cooking) they should not stick. Rustoleum is awesome, have used it for many outdoor projects and it does not die.
Schleich models are a little bit different. They are made with a different type of plastic. I have heard that this type of plastic reacts to spray on primer and makes the model sticky (I didn't have this issue, but I had troubles sanding the seams) - customizers I follow have had better results painting on Gesso... I need to experiment more with this type of model personally, if I find any interesting results- I will make a tutorial. My only suggestion is to try and see what happens. If I find out more, I'll let you know!
Hello do the same rules of prepping Breyer apply to the collecta horses? I bought the Andalusian stallion grey and they paint is coming off the mane in rubbery pieces as if it never adhered to the model. What is the best way to get rid of this thick paint?
CollectA horses are made with a rubbery plastic similar to Schleich horses. Maybe try to remove the paint with hot water (not scalding), and rubbing it off? I have a couple of CollectA horses, but no experience in removing paint. (Jan Griffiths).
So I have been considering getting my first model I can’t get a hold of primer since no art stores in the U.K. seem to sell it at least ones near me. Would white acrylics work in fine watered down layers to limit brush strokes?
DeeJayBe Studios yes I have found some Gesso for a good price on my local stores online site however they are completely out of stock. The only one they have available is a large container which is far more than I need and out of my price range. I am not sure when they will come back into stock so I could have a look at my hardware store if they have it.
adyson Case Yes. You should always do prep work on any model you paint, regardless of what medium you use. If you’re going to be spending several days painting wouldn’t you want the finished piece as realistic and detailed as possible? It would be a shame to put in all the hard work of painting and leave flaws on the original model. Chalk pastels will pick up more obvious flaws in the model as well since they are more delicate in use.
Yes, I like to wait at least 12 hours before fully handling the model. With the Rustoleum primer, it tends to be sticky if not cured fully, so that can compromise the finish if you handle the model too soon. I have gotten away with waiting an hour or too; if you hold onto the model with a piece of paper towel- but the longer you can wait, the better! Thanks for your question.
Of course!!! People sell custom painted cars, don't they? No difference. People like to buy already customized horses if they aren't adept at creating their own. Especially from well-known artists like DeeJayBe here. She does fantastic work. (Jan Griffiths).
She drilled a new hole. I do the same, but it's on the right side of the groin area. Stablemates are solidly molded, so no air hole is needed. Same with Mini Whinnies. (Jan Griffiths).
I've costomized a couple rubber models... one went from palomino to dappled grey. I did not prime at all I just painted it with light grey and then started details. I guess I should make that part of my upcoming UA-cam channel. LOL 🤣 But definitely use this method with Breyers!
Why are you even on her page it’s a tutorial and she can tell us what she does and what most people do and I’m sure she hates people who try to tell her what to and what not to do so just keep it to yourself
I love the work you do on instagram; I paint model horses quite often for commissions and for myself, and I have done a lot with stripping paint and fretting over getting all the paint off...but I learned recently that sanding like you explain doesn't even effect the quality of my work. I spent so much extra time stripping that I feel silly but happy I learned and practiced this! My whites have also improved SIGNIFICANTLY since watching your whites painting tutorial. Thank you for all the work you do to make these videos!!
I’ve been customizing for years and every single model I’ve done I’ve had to start over. I haven’t produced a single horse I’m proud of. 😂 I have like 7 or 8 horses I have in a bucket because I gotta get my customizing game on. I’m waiting until after I move though because customs are chalky and easy to scratch.
GOD I LOVE YOUR VIDEOS!
Hi!! Thank you so much for your great tutorials! I have a question: In an original traditional or classical breyer model, for customizing it, is it neccesarily to strip the whole model for repainting? or it's just fine to sand it a little bit and then apply the primer over the existing original paint that the models come from? Thank you so much!
I love your tutorials!! They're easy to follow & are so clear to understand ❤️
I see that you are only prepping bodies that are matte finish. Do Glossy figures require any different attention before priming them?
Thank you for your videos! They have been so helpful getting me started! I have a glossy Copperfox and was considering a custom design, but I'm not sure how to strip the gloss? Is that possible?
If it is original finish- factory gloss you can prime right over it. If it is a custom gloss done by yourself or someone else- you will need to strip it
@@DeeJayBeStudios It is original, thank you!
How does your primer not stay sticky? I'm using this one but it stays sticky for days to weeks even with the thinnest of coats
What scale is this horse?
So I did get hold of rust-oleum primer I finished priming him earlier and I intend to use pastels on him. However when he had just dried I caught my grandmother touching him after I told her not to because of oils on her hand. Is there a way to remove those marks before I use my pastels? If not I had the idea that I could turn him into a paint to remove the marks of her finger prints that will show up in the pastels. Do you have any advice on fixing it before the pastel phase or should I cover them up with white markings?
Hit him again with primer after giving him a wash (gently). (Jan Griffiths).
Is there anything you can use if you don’t have primer?
As an alternative, you can buy Gesso and paint it on. You have to use some sort of surface primer, so the paint has tooth to stick to, otherwise it will just chip off.
@@DeeJayBeStudios I paint a model only with acrylic, is there a risk that the paint gets stuck? I spray a layer of varnish at each stage)
I use White acrylic paint to prime it
I use appple barrel
what temp would be the best to prime in?
Ive never had problems with temperatures and priming. But I don’t leave the models outside to dry when it’s overly hot or cold, I bring them in. I prime successfully through both the summer and winter. Neutral temperatures definitely work best.
Would a nail file work for sanding seams?
For some areas yes I think it would. Sandpaper is more versatile for hard to reach areas - and stronger in design.
DeeJayBe Studios okay thanks, is there a way to get the horse ready for painting without primer?
@@mongooseodon7608 The primer is important as it provides a solid foundation for the paint to stick to. It also gives you a opaque and even layer to paint on top of. If you paint straight onto a smooth surface model, it will be really easy to chip and hard to cover.
DeeJayBe Studios oh alright, thank you so much!
4:02 and 4:09
WRONG?
Can you do a tutorial on how to remove parts of a model for re sculpting? I can't find one anywhere
I am working on that now, coming soon!
awesome! I'm just getting into resculpting so that'll be super helpful!
@@user-uw4yq6rj7g It is quite fun, I love resculpting and wonder if i can learn something new from a video here as well.
I love your tutorials 0:09 please tutorial this color please.
Yes please! Looks like a grullo blanket appaloosa?
I just recently got a duplicate of the 1st thoroughbred filly I ever bought with my own money. The new one has white hooves that I'm pretty sure we're somebody's custom work. But that's all she has. I'm still so thankful you've made tutorials and videos. You're showing me its OK to not be "perfect" 100% of the time. Forever grateful
This really helped a lot! Thank you so much! Amazing tutorial! :)
I am so glad! Happy Prepping
Thank you so much for your tutorials. You are so generous to do them! Really appreciate it!
Hi! So My model horse is dried and sticky using the same primer. Is there any way I could fix it? It’s my first time using primer.
Love the descriptions. And thank for you for supply links too.
TheMystic Breyers needs to see this....
I have just recently started to explore with painting models, I have started with the unpainted stablemates, before watching this tutorial I did use very fine sandpaper removed the logo and seams, the only type of primer I had available was a gesso. Do you notice a major difference in the finish? Also is it difficult to remove and start all over again? I dont have a drummer but I have a nail art tool for acrylic nails and I found it worked really well at removing the seams of the model in tight places! I started my very first model the other day on the rearing Andalusian. I noticed a heavy groove on his nose, concave. Would that be an opportunity to use epoxy sculpt? I have some knowledge as an art school student but my major was photo/film. I took sculpting and painting but never on plastic or resin etc. So im feeling my way around a bit! I love your tutorials! You are such a beautiful talented young woman! I wish I stuck with my love of horses! I am looking to learn and grow and enjoy every last minute of this reignited hobby! I also wanted to put a warning out there for others looking to buy cheaper models of favorite retired molds, I recently googled Gypsy Vanner which i love to see if i could find one reasonable to repaint etc when I did and you hit view all and see this in stock green I curiously visited. This site used the same models and of the Othello mold and esprit mold yet called them all GV! I thought that strange so tried contacting them, no reply so I did a search of the URL and name. Scam!!!! I am very meticulous before I spend esp if they dont offer paypal! I just wanted to give newer hobbyists like myself a warning buyer beware sometimes a good deal is too good to be true! I have been looking a while and I know these molds usually would never go under 100$ but I couldn’t help but get excited when I saw the 41.88 tag on it! But also on the stablemates and every other retired mold. Seemed strange! I was right! IDK how to report but these sharks are out there waiting to prey on enthusiasts esp cash poor ones! Its hard enough building up our collections and equipment to custom! So I thank you for your wonderful videos and hope to learn with and meet others like myself! We must look out for each other! Young new experienced and the like! I love your patient technique btw! I get so anxious and excited when i start but Im falling in love with the process! I have a ways to go before I show anything yet! Thank you again DeeJayBe! You have a new fan, and fellow hobbyist! I do have one last question, have you ever attempted to sculpt before? Its not easy, and its something Id like to try with horses this tike around! blessings and beautiful painting to everyone!
Good stuff!
I'd add a fan to blow the spray downwind, a proper spray painting mask, and a portable small ceramic heater (not too close) to the models to speed drying. If you set them on silicone mats (as in for cooking) they should not stick.
Rustoleum is awesome, have used it for many outdoor projects and it does not die.
Can you paint a My Little Pony G3 character on a Breyer and if you do look up the cartoon art to help
Will this work with schliech? (Please answer, if do thank you)😊
Schleich models are a little bit different. They are made with a different type of plastic. I have heard that this type of plastic reacts to spray on primer and makes the model sticky (I didn't have this issue, but I had troubles sanding the seams) - customizers I follow have had better results painting on Gesso... I need to experiment more with this type of model personally, if I find any interesting results- I will make a tutorial. My only suggestion is to try and see what happens. If I find out more, I'll let you know!
Ok thankyou!😊
love your video. Learned so much. What kind of paint do you use after priming?
Hello do the same rules of prepping Breyer apply to the collecta horses? I bought the Andalusian stallion grey and they paint is coming off the mane in rubbery pieces as if it never adhered to the model. What is the best way to get rid of this thick paint?
CollectA horses are made with a rubbery plastic similar to Schleich horses. Maybe try to remove the paint with hot water (not scalding), and rubbing it off? I have a couple of CollectA horses, but no experience in removing paint. (Jan Griffiths).
Oh and you should do the cutie mark first just a helpful tip
If I tried to Custom my Breyer horse and used Acrylic paint on its legs and face how do I get that Paint off? - sandpaper?
Easy off would work great. If the paint is not sealed to the model with a sealer, soaking it in hot water will also release the paint.
How would you prime a model that has textured fur, like Le Fire for example?
The same way :)
Very helpfull! I love your tuturials so much! They are clear to understand and very helpfull!
Is primer necessary?
Yes, always
that is, if I have a Breyer factory model, can I just coat it with a primer and repaint it?
Yes!
should i prime BEFORE sculpting or after?
After!
So I have been considering getting my first model I can’t get a hold of primer since no art stores in the U.K. seem to sell it at least ones near me. Would white acrylics work in fine watered down layers to limit brush strokes?
Can you find Gesso? That is a primer you can paint on. Primer/spray paint is also available in hardware & department stores.
DeeJayBe Studios yes I have found some Gesso for a good price on my local stores online site however they are completely out of stock. The only one they have available is a large container which is far more than I need and out of my price range. I am not sure when they will come back into stock so I could have a look at my hardware store if they have it.
Thank you so much for this tutorial!
Should i sand it down and add a new air hole and cover up the air hole even if I’m using chalk pastels?
adyson Case Yes. You should always do prep work on any model you paint, regardless of what medium you use. If you’re going to be spending several days painting wouldn’t you want the finished piece as realistic and detailed as possible? It would be a shame to put in all the hard work of painting and leave flaws on the original model. Chalk pastels will pick up more obvious flaws in the model as well since they are more delicate in use.
DeeJayBe Studios Ok tysm !
Why do you remove the heads?!!!!😱😵😮😲
To make them better!
❤🍭❤🍭❤🍭
This sounds dumb but would you wait the full 24 hours to then prime the tail areas you missed because you were holding onto them?
Yes, I like to wait at least 12 hours before fully handling the model. With the Rustoleum primer, it tends to be sticky if not cured fully, so that can compromise the finish if you handle the model too soon. I have gotten away with waiting an hour or too; if you hold onto the model with a piece of paper towel- but the longer you can wait, the better! Thanks for your question.
Yep, 24 hours is a safe bet. And handle the newly primed model with gloves. That way, the oils from you skin won't get on the primer. (Jan Griffiths).
What state do you live in. I live Ohio we have snow on the ground
I live in BC, Canada actually. The snow is coming!
This help me a lot! Thanks!
Just curious are you allowed to sell custom painted breyer horses?
Yes!
@@DeeJayBeStudios thank you for replying 😄 been thinking about getting into it 😅
Yep! It's soooooo much fun!!! 🤣🤣 I love it! Hope you join the club!
Of course!!! People sell custom painted cars, don't they? No difference. People like to buy already customized horses if they aren't adept at creating their own. Especially from well-known artists like DeeJayBe here. She does fantastic work. (Jan Griffiths).
Don’t fill in the hole! It will cause the model to bloat or shrink!
The hole is re-drilled in the groin area as a more discreet location
She drilled a new hole. I do the same, but it's on the right side of the groin area. Stablemates are solidly molded, so no air hole is needed. Same with Mini Whinnies. (Jan Griffiths).
Does this work for Schleich models?
Schleich work differently to prep. They are made of rubber rather than plastic. I haven’t mastered this skill yet.
I've costomized a couple rubber models... one went from palomino to dappled grey. I did not prime at all I just painted it with light grey and then started details. I guess I should make that part of my upcoming UA-cam channel. LOL 🤣 But definitely use this method with Breyers!
You don’t have to tell us what to do
It's a video showing what you should do. Why the f would make such an idiotic comment??
It's a tutorial. You should probably start reading the titles of the videos you click on, before you write comments like these
Haha, youre funny john
Hey, she's the artist, and this is a tutorial on the best way to do something. Don't be rude. (Jan Griffiths).
Why are you even on her page it’s a tutorial and she can tell us what she does and what most people do and I’m sure she hates people who try to tell her what to and what not to do so just keep it to yourself