1992 - 2000 GM Truck SUV Find Repair Water Rain Leaking in Rear Carpet Headliner Area (Chevy & GMC)
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- Опубліковано 25 лип 2024
- How to diagnose and determine the source of water intrusion / rain leaking past the rear quarter panel glass and into the headliner and down onto the rear cargo carpet area for old body style (OBS) 1990s GM trucks / SUVs such as the Tahoe, Yukon, Blazer, Suburban, and Escalade. Once discovered I'll show you one approach for how to mitigate the leak. This was shown on a 1999 Chevrolet Suburban, but would be applicable to Chevrolet, Cadillac, GMC, and Holden trucks from 1992 1993 1994 1995 1996 1997 1998 1999 and some carry over OBS trucks for 2000.
In addition to what I've shown in the video, the next time you have a reason to have the interior trim panels off run a bead of black RTV around to reinforce the aging urethane adhesive from the factory. I've since done this myself along with the same treatment of flowable silicone I showed but also then underneath the rear quarter vent pillar trim pieces at the rear of both quarter windows on top of the aging urethane bead.
The eBay and Amazon search links below are paid links, for which I may be compensated and earn a commission, if you choose to buy the parts and tools shown in this video thru them:
Permatex flowable silicone I used to perform the mitigation in the video: ebay.us/o6pCGx or amzn.to/3qog7sJ
If I've saved you some $$ here, consider some coins for the coffee tip-jar! ko-fi.com/drshock
1992 1993 1994 1995 1996 1997 1998 1999 2000
Chapters:
0:00 - Problem overview
0:30 - Rear quarter trim removal
2:11 - Diagnosis approach
5:40 - Problem mitigation approach
9:08 - Testing
#drshock #suburban #yukon #tahoe #escalade
Disclaimer: DrShock, the alias for the human content creator for this UA-cam channel, is not responsible for any damages, injuries, losses, or liabilities associated with any repairs, upgrades, or maintenance performed on yours, or any other, vehicle whatsoever. No warranty, express or implied, is made as to the accuracy or completeness of any information provided within this channel. Viewing and using the “as-is" information of this channel is totally at your own risk. Always wear personal protection equipment and follow appropriate vehicle manufacturer service manual guidelines with original manufacturer parts only when performing any repairs, upgrades, or maintenance upon any vehicle. - Авто та транспорт
I also recommend pulling the interior trim around these quarter windows and using a black RTV sealant to reinforce the aging urethane. Similarly I recommend pulling the rear vent pillar trim pieces off for the same purpose. Check those cracking body seam seals too - ua-cam.com/video/bATEAzWHToQ/v-deo.html&lc=UgyNccKJhFQlWooqKLd4AaABAg
I must say this has to be the most informative vid I've ran across for this situation. Thanks for sharing, Sir.
Well it finally happened so here I am! Thanks Doc, I found my leak... mine is right behind the driver side passenger door. Initially thought the center support bracket of the roof rack. Found them a little loose, tighten them and thought that did the trick. I'm not that lucky! Three days of rain here and it's back with vengeance... I'm sure after I do the seam "mitigation" I'll be good to go, you haven't steered me wrong yet. Thanks for posting.
You sir are a gentleman and a scholar, thanks for posting this. GB
for windshield leak i apply soapy water outside and blow air inside and look for bubble outside .thanks for sharing
Thanks for sharing! My 94 Blazer has the same water spots on the rear left speaker cover now that I don’t have a covered parking spot. Replaced the gas struts last year and I think the new ones opened a gap betweeen the top liftgate weatherstrip that presses against the roof. My rear side window trim doesn’t have a gap at all and I have no roof rack like your truck does. It’s 30 year old rubber so i figured I’d start replacing all the rear hatch weatherstripping. Just to check it off the troubleshooting list
Good call placing in some blue shop towels to routinely check. Great tip. Most helpful video I’ve seen so far!
Very great work thank you for the explanations of where the leak can come from, as well as sensible infos to have like the gasket from the roof brake light that isn't sold separately from the roof light, and how to fix it with inexpensive and easy tricks. Definitively gonna try it
Thanks for sharing, I have 07 Yukon with the same issue. I’m going to try and do that tomorrow.
My 99 isn’t leaking somehow this autoplayed while watching rear ac videos. Now I’m paranoid this is a project on my horizon.. good advice thank you!
Getting ready to check this location on my 98 2door Tahoe I’ve already replaced the seal that runs the perimeter of the rear cargo area which did stop most my water leaking in but still have a slight leak I want this thing 100% dry since it my overland/camping rig.
Thanks for the info!
Just as an update this solved my leak! Thank you for this video it was driving me crazy! Lol
I have ripped all the back carpet out, and will have to tear down the headboard because most of it is wet too for way too long. It's raining in my truck all over the back. So it's gonna be a job. Your video seems promising. Thanks.
Be sure to check the urethane sealing all around the perimeter of the rear quarter glass inside, behind the trim panel, if it's alot. This video was about a rather small leak, but I have tackled larger ones that were related to the urethane seal cracking. Just remove all the trim from the interior glass area, and you can see if that's where it's coming in from vs one of the roof mounting openings or outer seal as this video was related to. GL.
@@DrShock Will do. Thank you!
Any updates? Sounds just like mine, and not sure what the best way to remove headliner is
great video, been chasing the leak in my 02 burb for months. coming from above, leaking in front passenger floor under carpet. ruled out everything else, hoping this works!
Pulling the interior quarter window trim, and resealing the inside seams is a double insurance if not.
Thank you
Great video, concise and informative, thanks.
Seems like it worked for me. Took almost 3 tunes for the windshield and 2 side windows.
I taped each side of the area where I wanted the sealant. So I don't have to worry about cleaning up anything.
My 99' is doin the same dam thing... gonna go get some Permatex... thanks!
My '99 (seams like a problem year) had a leak also. One day I kept hearing knocking/tapping sounds. My wife told me your back side glass is open ( they don't open) I looked in my mirror to see it looking as it was one of the quarter Windows on a Chevette that pop out a little bit. Yep my heart fell to my butt. LOL good thing there was a dollar store coming up so I pulled in and got some duct tape until I can get it figured out to fix which got me watching your video. Thanks for the knowledge. It was from my spare tire pressing against the window. I'm not sure how but it's definitely one then I will not Overlook again.
In that kind of full detachment situation, definitely remove the inside trim and use urethane sealer all along the inside seam as well. Just doing the outside I showed here is for a minor leak.
@@DrShock should I remove the entire window and seal the full seam? Just the front edge is still holding on to the body.
If you can remove it without it breaking the seal or the glass yeah. These quarter windows are not made anymore, not by GM or aftermarket. And the seals are molded into the glass and not separate. But removing and resealing would be the right approach if it can be done with zero damage. Otherwise, what I ended up doing on another truck was remove the interior trim, get urethane from the outside of the seal where I could and have a helper press it against the truck firmly. Then run the urethane generously around the inside seam. Then get a soft blanket around something that can apply pressure against the outside over a few hours for it to set up.
@@DrShock thank you for that info. I did not realize the seal was made onto the window. This sounds like it's going to be a job. Thank you for your help and knowledge. It looks like I have some work to do. LOL
Thanks... Same problem I've been having
you should do video about - pulling the rear vent pillar trim pieces off for the same purpose
Mine are filed up with pine needles ,both sides. they leak down the inside of the window. now I know what to get. thanks.
Thank you 👍🏼
very good informative video ;)
Hmmm I'm having the same problem on my 2002 Pontiac Sunfire I don't know really what to do so I'm replacing All the weather proofing stripping
Here I was thinking I was the only one w this problem lol. I thought it was bc a tree fell on my suburban, btw they ARE tanks, the tree only bent the luggage rack.
Great fix! I have a question about the rack: Can it be easily removed and replaced without pulling the headliner? My roof looks like yours as does my hood. I am going to have them both redone and was hoping to remove the rack to make the job easier for the painter.
I've not done it myself yet but that's my exact plan as well (other than I'll do the paint myself). I believe once you remove the stainless fasteners the rack will just lift off. The plastic gaskets may need extra care to not be damaged during the removal as they are discontinued now by GM.
@@DrShock Thank You once again. I'm disappointed to hear about the gaskets. I guess if I am careful I can just install after a cleaning with clear silicone the more typical kind and I should be OK. I just didn't want to disconnect the parts and have uncaptured nuts fall off inside the roof structure or on to the headliner.
No need to remove the headliner for roof rack removal. Remove 2 screws on each corner of roof rack. Pop covers off carefully. Remove 1 bolt (that was covered) on each corner of roof rack.
My 1996 Chevy LT Tahoe window leaked I did the seal on both side panels. But I still have a minor leak that must be the roof rack. It doesn't seem to need tightening. Any videos on sealing a rack?
No, not yet. But I can tell you the fasteners are stainless steel so they should be ok. It's the plastic gaskets at the mount points that usually are suspect for rack leaks on the OBS SUV models.
i will give you advice about sealing for rear light, find company wich make ruuber desks 3mm thick and about 40x40cm big - about 5 dollars and you can cut sealing ;)
With silicone being incompatible with urethane, why did you choose silicone instead of urethane windshield sealant? Thanks Dr. for all your helpful videos. I am not trying to be a smart a$$, just value your thoughts and opinions.
So remember in this specific situation we're trying to mitigate the water getting under the _rubber_ seal, so we're not even touching the urethane bead which would be far deeper down. We're putting silicone against rubber only which is completely compatible. This product was the right choice for this situation due to its consistency, and designed flow properties allowing it to seep into the seal gap more deeply. A conventional silicone, or even worse urethane, would not have those physical properties and would have been less successful. Totally satisfied with the Permatex product in this situation, I would recommend it for this or a windshield leak without reservation. The only neg I would have is the Permatex tube the product comes in was not that great, it started leaking out the tube seam while I was using it making quite the mess on my hand.
@@DrShock Thanks
is this true for the blazer and jimmy as well?
Similar concept, but obviously totally different parts and layout.
My 99 just started a few months ago too. Wtf gm
What was the name of the glue silicone you used?
There's a link in the description.
@@DrShock would that sealer work for the gap at the top of the windshield and the rear brake light?
That product is specifically designed for windshield seals so certainly there. For the brake light housing, it may be a bit too _runny_ so you would have to go slow and experiment with it.