I use Castrol 75W140 gear oil and it made a huge difference to shifting, I also use it in the rear hub. Make sure the rear shaft is regularly lubricated with molybdenum grease too. My GS is an ‘07 with 81k kms and still goes like a new one!
Thanks, man! I will remember that. I've removed my shaft and both sides are perfect and were lubed. I cleaned up everything and lubed it again with moly grease. Was an easier job than I expected, apart from seating the front boot in the tight space.
I've got the same bike.. agree with most points. Also agree that there's more to like than dislike. Compared to newer models, these old bikes are great value for money. I managed to get a key cut and programmed by a locksmith without the need to go to a dealer, it can be done. Really enjoying the content.
I have the same bike, and i love it!! I am a lock Smit and i specialising in code key for cars and bikes. I did my key and it's easy to do. It's a id46 chip with roling code. With the right tools you can copy them. I have also a tool to program it in the ews. Greetings from holland!!
Hi Stefan, thank you for sharing! I will look around here in SA. I am sure someone should be able to do it. I thought it was just BMW. Cheers from South Africa
Hoi Stefan, bedankt voor de tip/thanks for the tip, I''m going to find a locksmith here and see if they can do key coding as well. I have done key coding myself on my L322 Range Rover (when we were living in Nigeria) but I had to get the full dealer level computer to be able to do that (and lots of other things). I know how easy it was on that car, and since BMW owned JLR at the time, I'm hoping that it is as simple :).
If you have a bmw bike, it's easy(withthe Wright tools)! Bmw car....i can do it also but its a different story 😂if you are living in Holland i can make one for you!
@@stefanwijbenga7557 ik ben al jaren weg uit Nederland!! I did borrow my good friends bike (see story below) but his 2018 GSA this time, while I was visiting my parents and sister in May. Still love my 05 even though the 2018 is much more refined. I will contact a local locksmith here and see if they can cut and code a second key, and maybe even get my cases to work on the same keys :)
Cluncy transmissions are on some bikes and mine for instance doesn‘t have that. Changing gears with a little bit of betweengas helps a lot. It takes a bit of pratice but I can change gears without hearing it at all. 14 years of experience!
I have a 2005 GS and agree with most of it, fuel strip (I keep my eye on the trip meter), gears not soo much if I concentrate I can get it smooth, ABS is still working fine (I'm coming up to 80k kms.) I have also upgraded crashbars (including extra covers on the valve cover), Same issue with key programming (I only have 1) and dealer is in Auckland (5 hrs from New Plymouth) New Zealand. I'm not yet going much on the rugged NZ tracks but when I do, I will have to upgrade the bash plate as well. I may have to go for store bought though. Suspension, not soo much yet, but also not riding it really hard, the flip side is that it is very comfortable on our not so great roads. Good review !!!
Thanks for the comments and for watching! I see some of the other comments have info on how to get a spare key without going to the dealer. I will try that out. Yeah, on the road the suspension and bash plate is more than good enough. It is really super comfy. I am no expert, but want to learn some technical riding skills to enter the next (2026) GS Trophy challenge. Thanks again for watching and enjoy your GS!
I got an immaculate 16k miles example 6 months ago. Serviced and check3d over thoroughly. Dropped a valve on the right side after 200 miles. Luckily I was able to replace the piston, cylinder and head for around £250 and she’s ran ok ever since… not confidence inspiring mind you.
@@Spartansrule118 yeah I think they are. Several engines replaced back when they were released. I think the 2005 - 2007 bikes wear the bad ones. Mines was one of the early bikes. In my case the bike had also sat for a decade. Great for low mileage but I think it causes other issues. Several old forum posts on the topic.
@@smoll.miniatures horror story. and yeah imo nothing worse than bike/car that sat unused for long time. Best is to buy actively used bikes that way most likely everything that had to be serviced/repaired will be.
Oh and for all the people saying that these bikes are not for serious off roading, you're wrong IMHO. I have a very good friend who took a brand new R1200GSA (2008) model around South America (6 month trip) and then a few years later around Africa (he visited us in Nigeria), he still has the bike, still uses it with 180k on the clock. He is not very tall and not heavy. I have seen many other smaller riders on these bikes doing amazing things (Jocelin Snow for example, have a look at her UA-cam channel). Yes a lighter bike is easier (sometimes) but not all of them are as solid as a R1200GS, plus that the boxer is great when one does fall over, makes it easier to get it back up (no pun intended, I promise). I would definitely take my 1200GS on a big bike trip through NZ, Oz, Africa etc. Then again, I did own a Range Rover (well a few) in Africa, so I may be a bit nuts :).
I totally agree and have seen riders to crazy stuff on the GSs (including Jocelyn). It is all about the rider's skills (which I am working on...LOL). I agree, you may be a bit nuts for owning a few Range Rovers. Then again, I swapped my 1988 Suzuki DR750Big for a 1974 Jaguar XJ6 ;)
2010 first dohc model, sold a few years ago 178.000km. Friend is riding it now and there are 210.000k on it (stll original clutch) only problem leaking rear ESA shock... no real other issues. Even the fuel gauge is original. Replaced the seat immediatly after buyng
2007 GS 1200, 70K trouble free miles. Agree with everything you said. The low speed clunkiness is not a gearbox isdue but the stupid lean condition created by the stupid California CARB emissions restrictions. Anyone have any luck with the AF-XIED mod. thats supposed to fix this issue?
I removed my ABS servo pump and now have normal non-ABS brakes directly to calipers. Haven’t fixed my broken fuel strip yet. I keep track of fuel via trip computer
Hello and thank you for this video. My main dislike concerns the twichy throttle response at near idle rpm. I foudn it very difficult on mine to be smooth from idle when opening (as gently as possible) the trhrottle after passing a round about or coming out of a curb. I tried mutliple fixes (the issue is wellknown) like a false temperature sensor which wil give the ECU the ''impression'' taht air emp is lower than it is in order to enrich a little gaz to air ration but it was still an issue for me.
I was seriously considering an older GS, but a few things convinced me to go with a Japanese bike (Super Tenere). 1. Frequency of valve adjustments, they are easy, but too frequent for an adventure bike (if you ride a lot, you'll be adjusting the valves at least twice a year, 40000km on the Yamaha and most report they are still in spec at that mileage). 2. At around 100000km, plenty have had their clutches replaced (you have to split the bike in to and it's thousands $$$) 3. Fuel gauges stop working, just like the ABS, fuel gauge is a couple hundreds to fix, but ABS can be thousands. 4. Drive shaft failures are not uncommon on the higher mileage ones. 5. I went to try a 2006 with barely 50000km on it, the boots on the drive shaft were dried up, all the plastics on the bike were dried up, I've never seen a bike with so little mileage age so poorly. 6. 4 buttons for the indicators is insane, and hard to get used to if you ride multiple bikes. As a tall rider, this bike was really on the top of my list, but at the price they are selling used, if you have one of the things above fail, it ends up being a very expensive bike not worth any more. I'd probably buy one new, and sell it when it's out of warranty :)
Chain and sprockets aren’t cheap either, drive shaft is every 80k, chain far, far more often, in the end i doubt which one is cheaper. A clutch plate is rather cheap, maybe 100 quid.. ONLY abs1 is a problem, from 2007 on no more issues and after 2007 if just if, cheap to repair… i prefer bmw indicator system, me myself can not get used to the “japanese” system, so it is a personal issue/taste i am going to the right, so my right thump pushes, left, my left thump, easy as eating chips.. frequent valve adjustment? No… there is an bmw advice on a certain mileage, but mine keeps being ok…. Don’t believe everything on the internet… if I sneeze 2 times and google that, i am dead tomorrow 😅
I agree, the BMW is a great bike. Both chain and drive-shaft have their pro's and con's. The issues I mentioned were just to make a video of stuff I can think of. Not deal breakers! There are many pro's too which I did in a separate video long ago. The biggest thing for me on a very long trip far from home is the electronics. I'd prefer a carb.
@@GreaseAndGravel I agree 100%; as with most things on motorcycles, maintenance or lack of play a big part in any 'issues'; Having owned many dirt bikes in my life, I've always had to do suspension work as even at my lightest I am 105Kg; I've just bought a (very low) 34000Km 2006 R1200GS so am going over it with a fine tooth comb; It might be low use but on close inspection it hasn't been looked after very good; I already know the suspension is just too soft; I will find out how much to rebuild the stock units with heavier springs or maybe save for Wilbers or Ohlins; The gearbox is clunky from stand still but i've yet to inspect the shaft; I think I will remove the servo brakes even though it is still working; Like you, I like to keep things simple for long trips; I think carbs could be adapted to the GS if something in the electronics were to fail; Ignition is still magnet pick up type so no problems there with going to carbs...now i'm off to watch how you removed the brake servo and get rid of 10Lbs.
Had a conversation only yesterday about people moaning about the gear change on the GS's. Why the hell are people using the quickshifter at low speeds and low gears? Use the clutch from 1st to 2nd and also to 3rd. It's not a problem. You're not drag racing, are you? And, everyone will agree using the quickshifter in the upper gears is just fine.
Rode a friends 2006 1200GS, wasn't a fan of the clunky gearbox but also found that there was quite a flat spot in power around 5k rpm, not sure if thats a common thing or not
boxer things ; yes also just test rode gs, 2009 year and engine surprised me, at (very)low rpm feels like its sluggish and weak, but as soon as you add throtlle it starts pulling like train, very smooth ; very positive feeling overall about bike as AT DCT owner, very neutral ergos and handling, nice and low CoG, just hated the turn signal switches
First thank you from me abourt this things.First time i use dr big 800cc after that i use africa twin 750cc.Untill now i did not have any big bike.I also now looking on GSA 1200 YEAR 2011 OR 2012 may be last models that models.If i buy that bike have any big problem for that?I also looking for ktm 1290 adventure just for info only.I consider to buy GSA 1200.Please give any info for that.Thank you & Regards from me MR RAZAK FROM MALAYSIA.
Hi, thanks for the comment. I've always wanted a XRV750 Africa Twin. The GSA is just awesome for touring. I am sure the KTM is more powerful, but I've heard enough that I prefer the reliability of the BMW. Good luck with the search! I'd look for the cleanest one I can find and then scan it for fault codes before buying.
@@GreaseAndGravel I'd love an XRV750...problem is not many around and when they do come up for sale they are Twice the price of the GS I just bought; The KTM's might be good...when they aren't broken down so no thanks from me. I'd like to get the GS911 scan tool but it's very expensive.
You have forgotten loads of issues.. Such fork (that breaks) throttle body pulley that also brake , plastic fuel pump fitting that breaks German quality??
@@GreaseAndGravel I have rust on the front headlight/gauges/front fender support; I will strip it to bare metal and repaint it with an epoxy enamel; Corrosion/Oxidising on the windscreen adjuster mounts and bar which I have already stripped for repainting; All the bolts on the front of the engine are rusty so they will need treating as well...apart from that, a few chips on the handlebar that have started to rust so I will strip and repaint the bars too...ah the joys of 2nd hand motorbikes!
Haha, I travel on a 701 Supermoto, once you ridden mine you'll sell that piece of heavy metal ASAP. At that weight its a highway only bike. And there the Pan European beats it easy.
I am sure the 701 Supermoto is a lot of fun, but this thing is very versatile. I can do 600 miles per day and then do some technical offroad and have fun in sand and rocky mountain roads no problem.
You won't be doing long treks (300 KM plus) on your bike in a hurry. The GS, although a hog when it's at a standstill is fingerplay once it's rolling. The Supermoto will undoubtedly shine out on other parcours where long distances are not really the issue.
@@GreaseAndGravel same here; I had a 2004GS that I regretfully had to sell way before its time was due and now I've just bought the 2006 because of my experience with the '04; I love how 'agricultural' they are.
![R1200GS / R1250GS | Complete Buyer's Guide [2005-2020]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/9arUyUFD5wk/mqdefault.jpg)
![R1200GS / R1250GS | Complete Buyer's Guide [2005-2020]](/img/tr.png)
I use Castrol 75W140 gear oil and it made a huge difference to shifting, I also use it in the rear hub. Make sure the rear shaft is regularly lubricated with molybdenum grease too. My GS is an ‘07 with 81k kms and still goes like a new one!
Thanks, man! I will remember that. I've removed my shaft and both sides are perfect and were lubed. I cleaned up everything and lubed it again with moly grease. Was an easier job than I expected, apart from seating the front boot in the tight space.
I've got the same bike.. agree with most points. Also agree that there's more to like than dislike. Compared to newer models, these old bikes are great value for money.
I managed to get a key cut and programmed by a locksmith without the need to go to a dealer, it can be done.
Really enjoying the content.
Hi Andrew, thanks for the feedback and for watching. Oh wow, do you have any idea how they programmed the key? That would be a great help.
@@GreaseAndGravelUtilize um transponder PCF7936 - ID46 - Virgem!
E um aparelho para programar, maioria dos chaveiros tem.
I have the same bike, and i love it!! I am a lock Smit and i specialising in code key for cars and bikes. I did my key and it's easy to do. It's a id46 chip with roling code. With the right tools you can copy them. I have also a tool to program it in the ews.
Greetings from holland!!
Hi Stefan, thank you for sharing! I will look around here in SA. I am sure someone should be able to do it. I thought it was just BMW. Cheers from South Africa
Hoi Stefan, bedankt voor de tip/thanks for the tip, I''m going to find a locksmith here and see if they can do key coding as well. I have done key coding myself on my L322 Range Rover (when we were living in Nigeria) but I had to get the full dealer level computer to be able to do that (and lots of other things). I know how easy it was on that car, and since BMW owned JLR at the time, I'm hoping that it is as simple :).
If you have a bmw bike, it's easy(withthe Wright tools)! Bmw car....i can do it also but its a different story 😂if you are living in Holland i can make one for you!
@@stefanwijbenga7557 ik ben al jaren weg uit Nederland!! I did borrow my good friends bike (see story below) but his 2018 GSA this time, while I was visiting my parents and sister in May. Still love my 05 even though the 2018 is much more refined. I will contact a local locksmith here and see if they can cut and code a second key, and maybe even get my cases to work on the same keys :)
Biggest failure on my 2009 gsa is the nut that connects the handle bars to the saddle
🤣mine suffers from the same problem
Cluncy transmissions are on some bikes and mine for instance doesn‘t have that. Changing gears with a little bit of betweengas helps a lot. It takes a bit of pratice but I can change gears without hearing it at all. 14 years of experience!
yep, they can be super smooth! operator (me) is the problem :) With experience it got better
I have a 2005 GS and agree with most of it, fuel strip (I keep my eye on the trip meter), gears not soo much if I concentrate I can get it smooth, ABS is still working fine (I'm coming up to 80k kms.) I have also upgraded crashbars (including extra covers on the valve cover), Same issue with key programming (I only have 1) and dealer is in Auckland (5 hrs from New Plymouth) New Zealand. I'm not yet going much on the rugged NZ tracks but when I do, I will have to upgrade the bash plate as well. I may have to go for store bought though. Suspension, not soo much yet, but also not riding it really hard, the flip side is that it is very comfortable on our not so great roads. Good review !!!
Thanks for the comments and for watching! I see some of the other comments have info on how to get a spare key without going to the dealer. I will try that out. Yeah, on the road the suspension and bash plate is more than good enough. It is really super comfy. I am no expert, but want to learn some technical riding skills to enter the next (2026) GS Trophy challenge. Thanks again for watching and enjoy your GS!
Thanks@@GreaseAndGravel enjoy the GS Trophy and if you ever in New Zealand, lets catch up for a ride, coffee and pie :).
I got an immaculate 16k miles example 6 months ago. Serviced and check3d over thoroughly. Dropped a valve on the right side after 200 miles. Luckily I was able to replace the piston, cylinder and head for around £250 and she’s ran ok ever since… not confidence inspiring mind you.
why did the valve drop? are they known for that?
@@Spartansrule118 yeah I think they are. Several engines replaced back when they were released. I think the 2005 - 2007 bikes wear the bad ones. Mines was one of the early bikes. In my case the bike had also sat for a decade. Great for low mileage but I think it causes other issues. Several old forum posts on the topic.
@@smoll.miniatures horror story. and yeah imo nothing worse than bike/car that sat unused for long time. Best is to buy actively used bikes that way most likely everything that had to be serviced/repaired will be.
Oh and for all the people saying that these bikes are not for serious off roading, you're wrong IMHO. I have a very good friend who took a brand new R1200GSA (2008) model around South America (6 month trip) and then a few years later around Africa (he visited us in Nigeria), he still has the bike, still uses it with 180k on the clock. He is not very tall and not heavy. I have seen many other smaller riders on these bikes doing amazing things (Jocelin Snow for example, have a look at her UA-cam channel). Yes a lighter bike is easier (sometimes) but not all of them are as solid as a R1200GS, plus that the boxer is great when one does fall over, makes it easier to get it back up (no pun intended, I promise). I would definitely take my 1200GS on a big bike trip through NZ, Oz, Africa etc. Then again, I did own a Range Rover (well a few) in Africa, so I may be a bit nuts :).
I totally agree and have seen riders to crazy stuff on the GSs (including Jocelyn). It is all about the rider's skills (which I am working on...LOL). I agree, you may be a bit nuts for owning a few Range Rovers. Then again, I swapped my 1988 Suzuki DR750Big for a 1974 Jaguar XJ6 ;)
2010 first dohc model, sold a few years ago 178.000km. Friend is riding it now and there are 210.000k on it (stll original clutch) only problem leaking rear ESA shock... no real other issues. Even the fuel gauge is original. Replaced the seat immediatly after buyng
try adding Liquid Molly MoS2 gear additive to the trans, made a big difference on how mine shifted still not great but much better
Thanks, appreciate the comment! The shifting is not that big a issue... just mentioned it because I couldn't find too many faults with the bike ;)
2007 GS 1200, 70K trouble free miles.
Agree with everything you said.
The low speed clunkiness is not a gearbox isdue but the stupid lean condition created by the stupid California CARB emissions restrictions.
Anyone have any luck with the AF-XIED mod. thats supposed to fix this issue?
My gs r1200. Adventure. Problem is ABS servo valve sometime lose break and fuel strip failure. Help me how to do so
I removed my ABS servo pump and now have normal non-ABS brakes directly to calipers. Haven’t fixed my broken fuel strip yet. I keep track of fuel via trip computer
Hello and thank you for this video. My main dislike concerns the twichy throttle response at near idle rpm. I foudn it very difficult on mine to be smooth from idle when opening (as gently as possible) the trhrottle after passing a round about or coming out of a curb. I tried mutliple fixes (the issue is wellknown) like a false temperature sensor which wil give the ECU the ''impression'' taht air emp is lower than it is in order to enrich a little gaz to air ration but it was still an issue for me.
I was seriously considering an older GS, but a few things convinced me to go with a Japanese bike (Super Tenere).
1. Frequency of valve adjustments, they are easy, but too frequent for an adventure bike (if you ride a lot, you'll be adjusting the valves at least twice a year, 40000km on the Yamaha and most report they are still in spec at that mileage).
2. At around 100000km, plenty have had their clutches replaced (you have to split the bike in to and it's thousands $$$)
3. Fuel gauges stop working, just like the ABS, fuel gauge is a couple hundreds to fix, but ABS can be thousands.
4. Drive shaft failures are not uncommon on the higher mileage ones.
5. I went to try a 2006 with barely 50000km on it, the boots on the drive shaft were dried up, all the plastics on the bike were dried up, I've never seen a bike with so little mileage age so poorly.
6. 4 buttons for the indicators is insane, and hard to get used to if you ride multiple bikes.
As a tall rider, this bike was really on the top of my list, but at the price they are selling used, if you have one of the things above fail, it ends up being a very expensive bike not worth any more. I'd probably buy one new, and sell it when it's out of warranty :)
Chain and sprockets aren’t cheap either, drive shaft is every 80k, chain far, far more often, in the end i doubt which one is cheaper. A clutch plate is rather cheap, maybe 100 quid.. ONLY abs1 is a problem, from 2007 on no more issues and after 2007 if just if, cheap to repair… i prefer bmw indicator system, me myself can not get used to the “japanese” system, so it is a personal issue/taste i am going to the right, so my right thump pushes, left, my left thump, easy as eating chips.. frequent valve adjustment? No… there is an bmw advice on a certain mileage, but mine keeps being ok…. Don’t believe everything on the internet… if I sneeze 2 times and google that, i am dead tomorrow 😅
I agree, the BMW is a great bike. Both chain and drive-shaft have their pro's and con's. The issues I mentioned were just to make a video of stuff I can think of. Not deal breakers! There are many pro's too which I did in a separate video long ago. The biggest thing for me on a very long trip far from home is the electronics. I'd prefer a carb.
@@GreaseAndGravel I agree 100%; as with most things on motorcycles, maintenance or lack of play a big part in any 'issues'; Having owned many dirt bikes in my life, I've always had to do suspension work as even at my lightest I am 105Kg; I've just bought a (very low) 34000Km 2006 R1200GS so am going over it with a fine tooth comb; It might be low use but on close inspection it hasn't been looked after very good; I already know the suspension is just too soft; I will find out how much to rebuild the stock units with heavier springs or maybe save for Wilbers or Ohlins; The gearbox is clunky from stand still but i've yet to inspect the shaft; I think I will remove the servo brakes even though it is still working; Like you, I like to keep things simple for long trips; I think carbs could be adapted to the GS if something in the electronics were to fail; Ignition is still magnet pick up type so no problems there with going to carbs...now i'm off to watch how you removed the brake servo and get rid of 10Lbs.
Had a conversation only yesterday about people moaning about the gear change on the GS's. Why the hell are people using the quickshifter at low speeds and low gears? Use the clutch from 1st to 2nd and also to 3rd. It's not a problem. You're not drag racing, are you? And, everyone will agree using the quickshifter in the upper gears is just fine.
totally! clutch for slow riding. This thing can be very smooth if you get used to it
ive just test ridden gs 2009 for first time and didnt notice anything unusual about gearbox
Rode a friends 2006 1200GS, wasn't a fan of the clunky gearbox but also found that there was quite a flat spot in power around 5k rpm, not sure if thats a common thing or not
boxer things ;
yes also just test rode gs, 2009 year and engine surprised me, at (very)low rpm feels like its sluggish and weak, but as soon as you add throtlle it starts pulling like train, very smooth ;
very positive feeling overall about bike as AT DCT owner, very neutral ergos and handling, nice and low CoG, just hated the turn signal switches
pozdrav iz hrvatske ja imam isto gs 1200 zanima me dali se gs911 mora nadograđivati softver
Pozdrav iz SA! Mislim da su ažuriranja softvera besplatna ako kupite GS-911.
thanks@@GreaseAndGravel
I have 2018. And it shifts fine.
Mine does too! I just had to think of stuff to say ;) Great bike!
First thank you from me abourt this things.First time i use dr big 800cc after that i use africa twin 750cc.Untill now i did not have any big bike.I also now looking on GSA 1200 YEAR 2011 OR 2012 may be last models that models.If i buy that bike have any big problem for that?I also looking for ktm 1290 adventure just for info only.I consider to buy GSA 1200.Please give any info for that.Thank you & Regards from me MR RAZAK FROM MALAYSIA.
Hi, thanks for the comment. I've always wanted a XRV750 Africa Twin. The GSA is just awesome for touring. I am sure the KTM is more powerful, but I've heard enough that I prefer the reliability of the BMW. Good luck with the search! I'd look for the cleanest one I can find and then scan it for fault codes before buying.
@@GreaseAndGravel I'd love an XRV750...problem is not many around and when they do come up for sale they are Twice the price of the GS I just bought; The KTM's might be good...when they aren't broken down so no thanks from me. I'd like to get the GS911 scan tool but it's very expensive.
@@markhills3922 old africa twin with enduro forks was the best bike i had. And i have new AT dct, transalp, TDM, ktm950 adv ;
Did you notice the influence of the higher viscosity oil in GB on consumption?
Nope, not really. But I didn't calculate the consumption often, only on one long 2000km trip when I got 39mpg at around 140kph.
@@GreaseAndGravel US, or UK? Hopefully US though.😉
@@Pawel5837 US ;) I had to convert from km/l we use in SA
I broke my suspension at less that 40k kmts, cost me around 3000 to replace it
Ouch!
Did it break or did it just start leaking?
@@markhills3922 leak from both plus a fluffy feeling
3k what? pesos? rubbles? ;
@@markhills3922 leaking from both sides and noticeable giving like a shaggy feeling
Men's moet net ń Baie kleiner bike gebruik vir grind pad!
100%
And the final drive that fails we are expensive
‘13 GSA oil cooled here. Three words. Rear main seal.
You have forgotten loads of issues..
Such fork (that breaks) throttle body pulley that also brake , plastic fuel pump fitting that breaks
German quality??
Relax Frenchman
In the UK the number one thing is corrosion
Oh yes, I forgot about that! Even here in SA, my frame has some rust on it.
Just sanded and repainted parts of the frame yesterday. Sanding paper and Rustoleum 750 black will take care of that pronto.
@@GreaseAndGravel I have rust on the front headlight/gauges/front fender support; I will strip it to bare metal and repaint it with an epoxy enamel; Corrosion/Oxidising on the windscreen adjuster mounts and bar which I have already stripped for repainting; All the bolts on the front of the engine are rusty so they will need treating as well...apart from that, a few chips on the handlebar that have started to rust so I will strip and repaint the bars too...ah the joys of 2nd hand motorbikes!
@@MrDertien Dulux make a good Epoxy Enamel which is tougher than Rustoleum.
@@markhills3922 Thanks for the heads up, will look into that.
Haha, I travel on a 701 Supermoto, once you ridden mine you'll sell that piece of heavy metal ASAP. At that weight its a highway only bike. And there the Pan European beats it easy.
I am sure the 701 Supermoto is a lot of fun, but this thing is very versatile. I can do 600 miles per day and then do some technical offroad and have fun in sand and rocky mountain roads no problem.
You won't be doing long treks (300 KM plus) on your bike in a hurry. The GS, although a hog when it's at a standstill is fingerplay once it's rolling. The Supermoto will undoubtedly shine out on other parcours where long distances are not really the issue.
701 is a confused bike, Jimmy Lewis says it's not great at anything.
You’re from the glass generation
I made it clear that it is hard to find fault with the bike. How many times have you ridden from Cape Town to Cairo?
it is a tractor indeed 😁
and that's what I love about it
@@GreaseAndGravel same here; I had a 2004GS that I regretfully had to sell way before its time was due and now I've just bought the 2006 because of my experience with the '04; I love how 'agricultural' they are.