10/10 Tutorial!!! Quick, simple and gives a GREAT overview of every step on real skis in real time. I never thought of using a wire brush for harder wax as I spent a solid 30mins trying to use a plastic brush to get the wax out of my base. That dual horsehair/wire brush is a life saver!
good job. just watched Swix's how to video. the iron should be straight not sideways. and they explain the reason not to get the iron to hot. resin between the layers in the ski will breakdown.
Should I sharpen if I mainly ski park? I am afraid of catching an edge on a rail but I also ski the rest of the mountain with my family sometimes. I would say im 70% park.
I didnt really get why you are waxing skis in the first place. You just said it makes them faster. Why put on the wax when you scrape it off after applying? Is it to fill in scratches or something?
Yes, Kind of. It fills in holes on the micro scale and the scratches as well. When scraping, you are just removing the excess. There is still lots of wax soaked into the pores of the base. Wax is hydrophobic. When you ski, the pressure actually melts the ice/snow slightly and the wax kind of repels the water. This causes the skis to slip, rather than stick to the water.
I can answer your question! The base of the ski is comprised of a material called P-tex. It looks like plastic but it's actually a unique material with lots of little micro holes. The wax is used to cover up these micro holes and creates a smoother surface on the base which helps the ski go faster. If you leave the wax on the ski it makes the ski a lot slower and more grabby on the snow. You want the p-tex base to be what touches the snow, the wax is only there to cover those tiny micro holes in order to create a completely smooth surface. Hope this helps! (I'm editing this comment to be more accurate. You're covering those micro holes with wax but not entirely. You still want to get as much wax out as possible. You're basically giving your skis conditioner.)
@@Ydooo The brush is to get the wax out as much as possible. This allows those little micro holes to essentially make your ski or snowboard hydroplane on the snow. I hope that's not confusing. It's like putting conditioner in your hair. You don't want to leave too much conditioner in your hair because it makes it greasy, but if you wash too much out it doesn't give your hair enough moisture. Weird analogy, but that's kind of what you are doing when waxing. You're putting conditioner on your skis. You want the wax to sit at least an hour before you scrape it, that way the holes can soak up the wax. Once you scrape your wax, you get out the brushes to get excess wax out of those holes. But it leaves a nice sheen on the outside and inside of those tiny micro holes, which makes the ski glide much better. When the brush doesn't get anything out anymore, then you're done! Once you see the base of your skis lose color and sheen, it's time to wax again.
You're doing zero degrees for the base edge!? That poor soul who has to ski on these is going to have a hard time. The edges are going to be SUUUUPER grabby. It makes it more difficult to keep a flat ski. You should always do at least one degree on the base.
10/10 Tutorial!!! Quick, simple and gives a GREAT overview of every step on real skis in real time. I never thought of using a wire brush for harder wax as I spent a solid 30mins trying to use a plastic brush to get the wax out of my base. That dual horsehair/wire brush is a life saver!
yes, P-Tex video please
This gearhead’s a 14/10. 🔥
good job. just watched Swix's how to video. the iron should be straight not sideways. and they explain the reason not to get the iron to hot. resin between the layers in the ski will breakdown.
Thank you for this video. Very informative and to the point. Thank you.
Would add one step: detuning from the tips to the contact points.
Should I sharpen if I mainly ski park? I am afraid of catching an edge on a rail but I also ski the rest of the mountain with my family sometimes. I would say im 70% park.
Have edges machined to match tool angle before using it. Can run your stone and leave you with goofy edges
When do you cork?
A old clothing iron is just fine. the less steam holes the better. You don't need no special vise either.
What temp should you set your iron at when ironing your base?
Just hot enough to melt the wax but not so hot that it burns it. You want the wax to drip-drip on your ski base in little dots.
I didnt really get why you are waxing skis in the first place. You just said it makes them faster. Why put on the wax when you scrape it off after applying? Is it to fill in scratches or something?
Yes, Kind of. It fills in holes on the micro scale and the scratches as well. When scraping, you are just removing the excess. There is still lots of wax soaked into the pores of the base. Wax is hydrophobic. When you ski, the pressure actually melts the ice/snow slightly and the wax kind of repels the water. This causes the skis to slip, rather than stick to the water.
@ I see. Good explanation
What is the brand of that universal wax?
Great video, cheers!
Thank you!
i would recommend to push the scraper with that angle instead of pulling it. The risk of damaging your base is much higher in this case.
Would you care to explain why the risk is higher?
why do we wax and then we remove all the wax?
I can answer your question! The base of the ski is comprised of a material called P-tex. It looks like plastic but it's actually a unique material with lots of little micro holes. The wax is used to cover up these micro holes and creates a smoother surface on the base which helps the ski go faster. If you leave the wax on the ski it makes the ski a lot slower and more grabby on the snow. You want the p-tex base to be what touches the snow, the wax is only there to cover those tiny micro holes in order to create a completely smooth surface. Hope this helps!
(I'm editing this comment to be more accurate. You're covering those micro holes with wax but not entirely. You still want to get as much wax out as possible. You're basically giving your skis conditioner.)
@Sqwivig thanks it was helpful! And why do we use the brush afterwards?
@@Ydooo The brush is to get the wax out as much as possible. This allows those little micro holes to essentially make your ski or snowboard hydroplane on the snow. I hope that's not confusing. It's like putting conditioner in your hair. You don't want to leave too much conditioner in your hair because it makes it greasy, but if you wash too much out it doesn't give your hair enough moisture. Weird analogy, but that's kind of what you are doing when waxing. You're putting conditioner on your skis. You want the wax to sit at least an hour before you scrape it, that way the holes can soak up the wax. Once you scrape your wax, you get out the brushes to get excess wax out of those holes. But it leaves a nice sheen on the outside and inside of those tiny micro holes, which makes the ski glide much better. When the brush doesn't get anything out anymore, then you're done! Once you see the base of your skis lose color and sheen, it's time to wax again.
@Sqwivig oh okay that's pretty cool! Thank you very much ! 🙏
remember to wear some gloves , you thk me later
You're doing zero degrees for the base edge!? That poor soul who has to ski on these is going to have a hard time. The edges are going to be SUUUUPER grabby. It makes it more difficult to keep a flat ski. You should always do at least one degree on the base.
Can we all agree to never say "tip to tail" ever again.
Why not?
But why
Tip to tail
Uumm... no? It's a quick and easy way to remember which direction you need to use the edge file. Tip to tail. Easy.
What if your edge went ejecto seato from a core shot... asking for a friend