Hornby's New DC Train Controller | Controller Buying Guide
Вставка
- Опубліковано 23 сер 2024
- Order yours here: www.hattons.co... (Affiliate)
Become a Sam'sTrains member here: / @samstrains
Get your Sam'sTrains merch here: teespring.com/...
Thanks for watching!
Email: samstrains@outlook.com
Instagram: samstrainsofficial
Facebook: samstrains
Twitter: samstrains
6:44 I love how you had to take those extra seconds just to say "I don't have a fetish or anything"
haha, I felt it most important to clarify ;)
Thanks for watching - Sam :)
@@SamsTrains seems suspicious Sam
Sounds like something that someone with a fetish would say!
you probably dont give a damn but does any of you know of a trick to get back into an instagram account..?
I somehow forgot my account password. I would love any tips you can offer me.
@Karsyn Mayson Instablaster :)
Great video Sam it looks like a great controller but the best are definitely gaugemaster controllers
Thanks David! Yes I've heard great things about the Gaugemaster ones! :D
Thanks for watching - Sam :)
I have a gaugemaster controller and it's got to be 15-17 years old now.
100% agree, my gauge master is by far the best controller I've seen and used.
But the HM2000 is also a decent controller. :)
Almost makes me regret going dcc
David's Trains Gaugemaster controllers all the way.
The "long time to reset" characteristic is probably due to the fact that the short circuit is heat (IxR) detection. It takes a while for the detection circuit to cool down to "Normal" and then reset to normal operation.
I'm a bit older so I remember the old British made r965 controllers that used to come with the starter sets which were excellent for slow running and much quieter than the newer controllers (similar to the HM2000) although they often had a weird quirk where some locos never quite stopped without you turning the reversing switch to the off position. It would be interesting to see how they compare to the new ones.
I'm 34 and I too had several r965's and they seem to be significantly better then the modern units! Good slow speed control and smooth turning control.
Gone DCC now, using digitrax dt400cab and it's night and day better imo.
Thanks a lot Jonathan - yes the R695 were very decent for the time - but you're right about the quirk, and I found that mine used to put out a few too many volts, which some engines didn't like!!
Thanks for watching - Sam :)
I have one of them, they take some getting used to
i have a R-965 but the built in track connection leads are missing since i got it second hand so i have to use the silver input and output clicks
I have 2 on my current layout(as they were the only ones I had when I built the layout but between half speed and crawl speed the engines jerk along I watched this video to find a replacement.
I find it quite amusing actually because that controller you've always known is in fact newer than the ones I got with my old sets, which more closely resemble this new model, in that they were a black box with a red dial. I refer to the Hornby R965.
Yes I know the ones - I'm well familiar with them, but they've never been supplied with train sets in my time as a collector! R695 was far better quality than these!
Thanks for watching - Sam :)
7:10 I actually opened my old analogue controller and you can actually remove a clip that has the locking mechanism, and it still works :)
haha yes you can - I've done that before too - I should have shown how to do that too! ;D
Thanks for watching - Sam :)
40 minutes of knob twiddling, oh my!
(sorry! I couldn't help myself xD )
haha!! I knew this was coming!!
I'll confess that I gave the video a thumbs up shortly after you realised what you'd just said (I did get a laugh from it). But I'd have given it one regardless. ;-)
There’s a site or sites for that lol 😂
Sam, great review! I've had my Guagemaster analogue controller for 25 years now. Never a days problem and it has a Lifetime guarantee, you do get what you pay for!! Take care now, Terry.
Thanks a lot Terry - yes I get that impression from the Gaugemaster controllers too - I do need to try one!!
Thanks for watching - Sam :)
Hi Sam. I'm afraid it's gaugemaster and nothing else for me. They are well made and give a very smooth performance and are excellent for extra slow crawling speed control. All of my loco motors (all bachmann) are exceptionally quiet. Even the handheld model will walk all over most of the opposition. Their electronics give a very smooth dc output (no noise/spikes) +the lifetime warranty make the gaugemaster controllers a superb investment. I've not had a motor burnout at all in 15 years of using my gaugemaster controller . I rest my case. As usual a very entertaining video .
Hang on, the sound my locos make is not only caused by the controller, but it also isn’t normal?? Hornby, that ain’t it chief
Back when i got my first hornby train set, the Easterner i think it was, the controller that came with it weighed a ton but never broke on me the many years i had it. Sadly it all had to go when i moved house but I've got a new layout planned that will use the silver controllers but i may pick up an older one for nostalgiaic sake. Great informative video by the way.
Very glad to hear that! The old ones really were the best! :D
Thanks for watching - Sam :)
I didn't find any other information online that suggested that the PWM (pulse width modulation control) was a problem for motors, and so I was not sure whether your comment that the humming sound was disturbing and the sound of an unhappy motor was actually accurate. I wrote Hornby, and the technician, who himself has used a Hornby PWM controller successfully for years, said that the humming sound is a by-product of the pulsing of the PWM, and nothing to be concerned about. He also said they'd done extensive testing of the controller and never found any issues with it.
Personally, I don't find the lack of a "click" on the Hornby to be less satisfying, and, in fact, I like it because it seems less likely to break. I also think it makes sense to stop the train before switching it between forward and reverse, so I don't think this feature is annoying at all! Lastly, while it was very good of you to include the price of the power supply in with the Hornby to make things fair, I think it is not fair to give the 37 pound Hornby the same low rating on price as the 117 pound HM 2000, even if you feel you're getting more for the money. If you don't have much money, 37 pounds is definitely better than 117 pounds!
“That’s a little bit naughty” got me there😂😂😂😂
Good review, as usual, Sam. Having just returned to my model railway after a gap of 55 years, I definitely prefer my old and original controller with a solid feeling knob - clockwise forward, anti-clockwise reverse. I find the change of direction slider switches in newer controllers to be a real pain. Imagine a reverser in a steam engine having a change of direction lever!
Thanks very much mate - yes indeed, definitely don't replace an old unit with these modern ones - always ends in disappointment, haha! They are a pain, you're right!
Thanks for watching - Sam :)
Great video! I’ve used the gauge master combi for a long time and I can only praise it! Try using H&M controllers there very old but very good!
Thanks a lot mate - yes that's what I've heard about those too - very top controllers!
Thanks for watching - Sam :)
I have 6 ofthese
I'm so glad I switched to DCC operation. Although I've had a HM2000 for many years and it still works well to this day, I am planning to keep it as I can make good use of the accessory outputs.
haha I don't blame you for that! And yes, the HM2000s are excellent little units! :D
Thanks for watching - Sam :)
Another great video Sam. So glad I watched this as I was thinking of getting one of the new controllers for my first set but I’m going to steer clear now.
Thanks a lot Alex - I can't recommend those new controllers sadly :(
Thanks for watching - Sam :)
"I haven't got a fetish or something.." Sam, you are hilarious. Thanks for another great video!
haha thanks mate, appreciate it, lol! ;D
Thanks for watching - Sam :)
The black square Hornby controllers from the 1990's are brilliant.
The subsequent models are not as good at all.
Agreed
Yep that's basically true - the old ones were pretty good! :D
Thanks for watching - Sam :)
It seems to be all about Price-point now. Cheaper controller means lower train set price. It makes me wonder if next we'll see a return to train sets with battery controllers. Certainly my first electric train sets (Lima, 1970s) came with control boxes that needed 6 C batteries. You had flat out forward, flat out reverse and stop.
Some such as Hornby's with used a pair of 6 volt lantern batteries at least gave you the option of a half speed by using only one battery (or were they in parallel?), and full speed with the two in series.
Yes, we have the Hornby Junior with the batteries in the loco - but as you found, that's not the same thing.
I’ve been using the basic silver hornby controller for ages now and I think now it’s finally time for an upgrade after watching this haha so thank you! My engines motors all have that nasty high pitch whine using that thing and I never thought that sounded healthy either
Side note, Hornby’s website finally added to their page that it does NOT include the transformer...! 😂 cheers!
I can highly recommend it - I'm told the whining is perfectly normal, but I've never liked it! And you're right - they changed the description pretty sharpish after this video went out!! xD
Thanks for watching - Sam :)
I personally use the Gaugemaster Combi. I love how compact it is and it also has a "neutral" mode on the switch so if the knob is turned to full, the loco will not move. It is also £34 on hattons
Thanks SG - yes I know how good those are - I do need to try one! :D
Thanks for watching - Sam :)
Would definitely recommend the COMBI made by gauge master it is brill! On Hattons I believe it to be roughly £35!
Hope that helped someone
Yeah absolutely - I've since tried one and they are indeed excellent! :D
Thanks for watching - Sam :)
Hi mate thanks for replying
Good opportunity for Hornby to bring out a 'decent' low-end controller for the first time in years. Blown it again though!
Yes indeed - unfortunate but not surprising!
Thanks for watching - Sam :)
Very interesting Sam. My main controller is an H&M Duette that I bought second hand 40 years ago and still performs superbly. I have that silver Hornby controller and it is, as you say, total rubbish. I also have the Hornby controller that is 30 odd years old and it is great.I would love one of those 2000s. Excellent comparison video.
Thanks Philip - yes those old H&M controllers are brill, you're right! :D
Thanks for watching - Sam :)
11:58 it sounds like a tri ang locomotive with too much oil
haha it does actually!! ;D
Hi
Can you review DJ models Adams o2 (as a farewell to DJM?)
I'd like to James - but I find them so badly designed, I don't want to spend any more on them :'(
Thanks for watching - Sam :)
Is this because the J94?
If so, I can sure you that it is heavier and quieter compared to austerity
I use the Bachmann controller on my n gauge layout works ok for me but I use kato track points and assesories so I don't need to worry about extra features great informative video
Thanks for the comment Keith - yes the Bachmann one is pretty impressive, particularly if you don't need the accessories function!
Thanks for watching - Sam :)
I had the new one a few months ago and it kept failing so many times that I couldn’t use it. I got it in a train set and when it failed I had to use an old version of it and now it works absolutely fine
Hey I didn’t know DC Universe teamed up with hornby
Hahahahahha
haha!!! ;D
RockStarXXXD75
I prefer Marvel
IDK13 that’s fine with me
RockStarXXXD75
Like your pic
I would like to see the inside of these controllers.
Duly noted! I'll look into doing that! :D
Thanks for watching - Sam :)
Is it just me or did Sam feel more expressive in this video?
I do love it to be honest, goes to show how passionate he is about all of this.
haha yeah - I was trying to hold back a major rampage actually ;)
Thanks for watching - Sam :)
Hi Sam I am all things arty's brother I just wanted to tell you that inside the Hornby controller on top of the direction switch there is a plastic thing and that stops you from switching it when the controller is on and if you take it off I you can switch it when the controller is on
Hi Sam, lovely review of the controllers! I'm not sure if someone has brought this up to you already, but in the North American starter sets from Bachmann, the controller is the same, except there are two ports at the top for uncontrolled AC and DC outputs, much like the newer Hornby one! That would make it nearly on par in features with the newer Hornby controller.
I would also recommend trying, if possible to look at one of the american starter sets from Bachmann, so that you can see the difference between their American standards and their British standards, it would make for a cool review as well! One of their better starter sets is the Durango and SIlverton HO set, because it comes with a Spectrum loco, similar to the Decapod that you looked at.
Thanks mate! Yes I have heard about that actually - interesting that there are so many different versions of that one! :O
Thanks for watching - Sam :)
I started, like many of us, using analogic controls from Fleischmann. Later I turned into digital and now I use digital centrals like Roco's Multimause, Lenz's LZV100, and Roco's Z21. Watching your videos I was curious about those two black controllers you have there. Could you tell me the brand of these controllers, please? They look terrific !
OK. "HM 2000".
Yeah, DCC has overtaken the likes of these really! The HM2000 is now owned by Hornby!
Thanks for watching - Sam :)
Thanks Sam, I recently bought a Hornby set for my son's 7th birthday which came with this new controller. After it cut out for the umpteenth time, I took the thing apart, cleaned up some oxidation, and it still cut out!😡 Thankfully I watched your review before just buying another of the same, shall be buying a Bachman I think. Can't believe Hornby sell their sets with this rubbish inside.
I had an older style controller (R965) from my Queen of scots train set (circa 2002) & that is a very good controller, but I do have an older R900 circuit controller from the eighties which is fantastic, it uses rocker paddles for direction & high/low speed settings. But both controllers have a positive feel & don't make any noise, odd how these modern controls are supposed to be more refined
Ahh yes, those are very good indeed - any old controllers seem to be much better frankly!
Thanks for watching - Sam :)
Yay! they brought back the old colour scheme. I remember these red and black boxy things that I have when I got my first train set as a child.
haha I know! The colour scheme is one of the few good things about it! ;D
Thanks for watching - Sam :)
It's a minute on the old cheap hornby, if you read the label that comes with them, it says that it takes a minute to reset. Besides think of the reset thing as an excericse in patience.
haha - what if you don't want to excercise your patience? Besides, I can get it to reset immidiately by unplugging, and twiddling the dial!
Thanks for watching - Sam :)
brilliant video as always sam, i agree with you completely, my favorite controllers are the old black and red hornby basic controller which came before the silver one, i recomend getting one to try it. i also like the hammet and morgan controllers from back in the day, old but really good and lastly the gauge master combi.
Thanks very much mate - yep you can't beat the old ones!! :D
Thanks for watching - Sam :)
I needed a controller. Found your review and have scored on a used Bachmann on EBay at a great price. Many thanks. 👏👏👍😀
So, im trying to get into model railway. And I got a 2 starter kits from kato. both have a controller. so i have 2 controllers for 2 trains. can i run both at the same time. or can i have both trains on the same rail, but only 1 of them running? I planned to have a station with a sidetrack for the 2nd train to stand when not running.
I feel with the hornby controllers, there are 2 options. 1 is the bin.
The other is we are looking at controlling lights in upgrades. Beyond that I can see no use.
We use a guage master, hornby r965 and a 1960s triang controller for the trains not had any issues with these controllers 😊
When you brought a train ( Hornby or Tri-ang) set in the 60's. The controller had a small red button that popped out if you had a short circuit. fix the problem re-set the button and away you go, no waiting. H.M. 2000 is a controller that goes back to the late 70's. Back then this controller was put out by Hammet and Morgan who's controllers where as strong as tanks. My model of this controller is still going strong to this day it looks exactly the same but the lettering say's Hammet and Morgan 2000.Cheers, Chris Perry.
Yes I've been hearing about that CHris - it sounds like a much smarter solution if you ask me! Yep - you can't beat those H&M controllers, that's definitely true!
Thanks for watching - Sam :)
@@SamsTrains Just in passing I also have Hammet and Morgan's 3000 control panel with brake control , regulater control, variable control and auto power control. plus all the other D.C. and A.C. extra's A Roll's Royce of a panel. Nealy 40 yrs. old . It hasént missed a beat. Cheers Chris perry
Well... At least my controllers are authentic, by which I mean they were made when the steam locos on my layout's real life counterparts were still operational. They do however, give a very nice slow speed and are very satisfying to use. Great video.
haha that's pretty awesome!! Which ones are you using mate?? :3
Thanks for watching - Sam :)
I've just had a look and I think they were actually made a year after steam was withdrawn. They are the H&M Duette twin power supplies. Three of them. We got them with 12A fuses so they weren't the safest things in the world, but with a few fixes they work great.
Hornby controllers can be used with nearly any power transformer, so you can use the one you prefer to use because they're not all equal although setting it to low will burn the motor out and burn the controller out as well, which means unless you're a multibillionaire you should set the controller to high (typically written as hi on model train power controllers). The funny thing is model train controllers had a reset button in the 1950s-1980s.
Fascinating review Sam...like the old adage goes..'You have to pay for quality' and that's proven here..I have an old second hand H&M Duette, which is around 40 years old, and still doing what it should do very well....Bob
Yep absolutely right Bob - and you can't beat the old ones!! :D
Thanks for watching - Sam :)
I have one too, but you have to remember it's a basic variable resistor design, not pulse width modulation or basic feedback. This means older locos under greater load on inclines, turnouts etc. slow down as there is no feedback increasing output.
When I was a boy (back in the 1960s) my train set had a metal controller (Triang/ Rovex P4?) and it weighed a ton. It had one control knob on which OFF was straight up, FORWARD was by turning it to the right and REVERSE was by turning it to the left.
More to the point is that it had a small red button above the control knob with popped up and shut the power off if a 'short' occurred.
All that was needed was to fix the short, push the button back in and Bob's your uncle. The whole process took about two seconds.
I think manufacturers are going backwards in their product details.
The best thing about the Hornby controller is the J50 you tested it with! Now I use DCC mostly, but from time to time I use a bomb proof Kent Panel Controls unit, a GM Combi, free with a magazine subscription and best of all, a 30+ year old H+M.
haha I agree Billy! Ahh that sounds much better - it was free, and it's still better than these ;)
Thanks for watching - Sam :)
That little socket on the righthand side of the HM2000 is for an single add one controller saw one on Ebay. 👍
Yes you’re right - a really good idea!!
Thanks for watching - Sam :)
You should try a gauge master, they are solid reliable and come with a life time guarantee. The model D is even cheaper than the HM2000 and is the one I use.
Yes I heard that those are the best Rob - I might try to get one - thanks for the heads up! :D
Thanks for watching - Sam :)
Not a shabby review. Such a competitive price and with accessory outputs. Will certainly be on some peoples to buy list, but I will admit the bachmann ezy controller shined very well. Clint
Thanks a lot Clint - yes the price is fairly attractive (and a little misleading too mind you!), but the Bachmann one worked far better!
Thanks for watching - Sam :)
I bought one of these to use for my point motors as it has an onboard CDU which is highly recommended if you are going to use solenoid point motors that require a good amount of 'burst' to not overheat them.
Ahh fantastic - does it work well??
Thanks for watching - Sam :)
I remember the Roco ASC-1000 which was aslo insane expensive at the time, but had features which you see now in digital controllers. Things like V-max, acceleration and brake settings, and some programmable things. It was the analog forerunner of the digital systems.
Ahh really?? That does sound awesome - I do love that cool stuff! :D
Thanks for watching - Sam :)
By the way lovely video Sam keep up the good work
Nice little review there mate, as others have pointed out it's a shame Hornby haven't taken the opportunity (especially with Mr Kohler back on board) to produce a reasonable one, even if it would have cost that little bit more. I've got to admit I am gradually fitting decoders to my fleet, so working on an odd combo of DC and DCC, but my test track has been built to easily switch between the two. I actually ended up buying some bits and bobs from ebay and building my own DC controller, following the advice of (I think!) Budget Model Railways youtube channel. No soldering or anything required, just a small screw driver and some wire. Works a dream.
Would be interesting to see how the accessories output works on the new Hornby one, with the distinct lack of ampherage going into the controller.
Thank you again for a brilliant review, and carry on doing what you are doing.
Cheers,
Dom
Thanks Dom, yes a shame indeed - but not a surprise! DCC is definitely a good option - especially when this is the alternative ;)
I may do some more delving into this in the future!
Thanks for watching - Sam :)
Thank you for the results and I have bought a bachmann E-Z controller and I am very exited for when it arrives
Ooh awesome - really hope you enjoy it! :D
Thanks for watching - Sam :)
Thanks for the well informative video. I live in the USA, so if I ever get a Hornby starter set, I will use a good US brand power pack/controller (like MRC) to power my train and put the Hornby controller to good use - as a paper weight.
haha yeah that sounds wise - though it's no good as a paper weight either - not heavy enough ;)
Thanks for watching - Sam :)
I have an H and M controller sitting right next to me, which is about 60 years old and still works fine. It is a twin-track controller with an output of 2 amps.it also has a 12v DC output on one side and a 16v AC output on the other side.and it says on the tin plate on the front "Protected by automatic thermal cutouts". I will still use it as my tester at the work station, but I hope to get 2 twin Guagemaster controllers, one with the brake simulator(For the Up and Down Main Lines) and one without for the engine shed and TMD and the shunting yard. I do still have the controller from the first train set we had. Princess Victoria in BR black with two coaches and track I think it is better than the new Hornby one. One thing you did not say about the new Hornby one, where was is it made? If you say China, then that's the problem. Hornby is on the wrong track and needs to sort things out. Make a factory in Thailand. Okay, the labour would be a little more expensive if in Bangkok. But up here in the North-east it would be cheaper and the Thai's need jobs. Martin (Thailand)
Blimey! Didn't know they'd been making them for as long as that - they are superb things though - I know that for sure! I really like the Gaugemaster brake simulators too - a very clever feature!
Many thanks for all the info,
Thanks for watching - Sam :)
I love your videos I always loved model railroads I have one my self you help me choose what I want and what I don’t want
That's great to hear mate - really glad to have been a help! :D
Thanks for watching - Sam :)
Hi Sam. For dc layouts gaugemaster will usually outperform the competition with ease. I personally won't use anything else. With the superb controllability plus a very smooth output usually puts an end to noisy motor problems. Cut out resets in seconds. I've had no motor burnouts in over ten years of ownership. The lifetime warranty is a bonus so all in all Gaugemaster are very good value for money.
I agree Chris - I picked up a gaugemaster controller after this, and they are superb indeed!
Thanks for watching - Sam :)
Hi I'm new to the hobby; I just barely got the last train set in stock of my entire state.
I got the new hornby controller: any ideas for a future upgrade? You know after I save up enough money for me to build a switching layout
Hi Sam, great video, I didn't realise that the direction switch was locked to the speed dial, I thought mine was broken and took it apart to remove the clip! Works great!
Thanks Robert! haha absolutely - but it is nice and easy to remove the irritating thing - as you know! ;D
Thanks for watching - Sam :)
I find it odd that the wires to the track are attached to the controller instead of the wall power wire.
Nearly every American controller I have has separate track wires but an attached wall power wire (except for Bachmann's, in which the wall power supply can be detached as well as the track wires. by the way, mine is a zero to 100 version, not the on/off one like you have) They are attached by forks on the ends of the wire (or just the bare wire) onto screws.
Also, every controller that I have has ends for powering acessories via AC power, even the very cheap life-like controller (the only controller I have that doesn't have an LED, or a slider to change the direction. Instead, zero power is at 12 o'clock, and you turn right to go one way and left to go the other)
The controller I mainly used is the MRC 220 (Tech 4), the standard bachmann USA controller (the image on this lkink is exactly what it looks like) www.decibelscalemodels.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=976
and the Athearn SDK-789.
Eih?? Don't they have to be connected to the controller?? The MRC sounds good though - I'll have to look those ones up! :D
Thanks for watching - Sam :)
@@SamsTrains, yes, he means the controller is hard wired to the power adapter, where as the wires connection to the track have a removable socket.
Perhaps because the UK is 240v AC.
It's not about the voltage. It means Hornby can sell to multiple markets with a localized power adapter. I have a Hornby controller with an Australia socket. You can also use it in America where the voltage is 110V. It also means if the adapter fails or the controller fails, you could just replace the part that fails.
I love the old American throttlepack DC controller it is a 80s controller and it holds up today
Ooh really? That sounds awesome - I'll have to look that one up! :D
Thanks for watching - Sam :)
The Gaugemaster combi is the best bargain controller by some margin... Smooth control, 16v AC for accessories, 1amp cut out that works how you would expect it to and of course their legendary lifetime warranty. It's been my choice for 20+ years.
Yes I agree - I love those too, fantastic! :D
Thanks for watching - Sam :)
The old Hornby R905 controller had a 'Half Wave' switch for slow speed control. I used to have one. I've asked Hornby on their FB page why they don't mention that their controller needs a power supply. I also looked at their page for the P9000 transformer. It doesn't say if it's suitable for the R7229. It just mentions the old R8250.
Ahh did it really? That's quite interesting! I have noticed that they've now updated their website - looks as though they've taken it on board!
Thanks for watching - Sam :)
Hi Sam
With the old cheap hornby controller you can reset the you will need to un plug the wire and unplug the power plug from the socket
Would you recommend the airfix usa 440 tender engine
Yes that's true Lewis - it goes in the end that way! I don't really recommend those - mine blew up after not long :(
Thanks for watching - Sam :)
Nice to see a new controller. For someone who has 3 of the old style and 1 of the very old style it's nice to see some change
Thanks a lot mate - yes it's nice to see a change - but I wouldn't buy one if I were you! ;)
Thanks for watching - Sam :)
Interesting Sam
I'm amazed at the lack of a reset button on any of the controllers. My old lay out had two controllers. A triang RP14 unit that ran the fiddle yard and the quarry sidings, and a H&M Powermaster which controlled the mainline and the station area (it was a fiddle yard to terminus branch layout) - I also had and old Scalextic RP 17 transformer that powered the point motors and lights for the buildings. ALL of them had little button that popped up if a short circuit happened, and stayed up until the fault had been cleared and could then just be pushed back in to reset. Easy, safe and convenient, I dunno why they dont have a similar system these days.
Jon
Me too Jon - it wouldn't have hurt would it?! A little button like yours would save hours of frustration over a whole childhood!
Thanks for watching - Sam :)
The problem with those buttons is that you could press them down and keep them pressed while the short circuit still existed. (Used to do that when I was little, many, many years ago.) They'd never pass the safety regulations these days.
I have been using the cheap Hornby controller and never knew the best controller because it has always stopped and I had to unplug it multiple times and thanks to your video, I now know😋can’t wait for you next video
Thanks Preston! Yeah I'd replace it with a Gaugemaster or Bachmann one if you're fed up of it - they're not very good for the motors either!
Thanks for watching - Sam :)
The newer Bachmann controllers use a 16v AC input. If you need to limit the speed for children, you can use a 12v AC or even a 9V AC transformer. They are not fancy, but they do work well.
What frustrates me is that the old Hornby R965 Controller was actually one of the best on the market. It even had the centre-off position on the direction switch! I still use one to power my O gauge locomotives.
In the US newer Bachman controllers(44211) use a DC input, the older ones and maybe some versions are AC. Regardless that most look alike, there are at least a half dozen versions of the AC input controllers. Most have voltage sag if a second engine is added but at least one version has a regulated output and can maintain same voltage output.
Honestly someone should design controllers with a GFI/GFCI. It pops like a circuit breaker when its shorted, you press reset, and you're back in business.
haha I agree... it can't be that difficult can it?!?! :O
Thanks for watching - Sam :)
Kato do this with thier controlers
Sam:
When I had my large S scale layout up and running, I used MRC controllers from my earliest days in the hobby in 1960. Never had a problem and I’ve already devised a way to do Thames thing again should this 00 gauge thing get out of hand. I’ll probably also go with a common rail supply system again, as well, if I live long enough. No sense buying new when other people’s cast- offs will do the job
Keep up the good work!
Bob, in USA
Thanks for the comment Bob - those sound like good solid controllers, I'll have to try to get one!!
Thanks for watching - Sam :)
Hi Sam. I’ve just received my Accurascale Harry Needle Class 37. Accurascale says not to use s primitive 12V controller. Which contrller wouyou recommend? They say a basic 12V might damage the accurascale model due to the complex electronics.
You'll be fine with any modern controller - I'd recommend the Gaugemaster ones (not their feedback controllers), and those will be perfectly fine!
Thanks for watching, Sam :)
I’ve still got the R965 controller, it’s got forward and reverse directional triggers as well as a stop in the middle and has outputs to run accessories
Yes that's a very good controller - I like those too!! :D
Thanks for watching - Sam :)
If you are still going DC, which I am, Micro layout ( one engine in steam ) then look no further than Gaugemaster Controlls, Combi is the best, great slow speed and power pack comes in package, also has 16v uncontrolled for points, lighting etc, price is not far off the Hornby rubbish too..lol great video mate...
Thanks a lot for sharing - duly noted!
Thanks for watching, Sam :)
Thanks Sam very useful. I just needed cheap accessory slot for my points and have a spare wall transformer so the new cheapo Hornby controller will do the job for now👍
Thanks Martin, sounds good - that's about all they're good for! ;D
Thanks for watching - Sam :)
I like the short circuit protection in the newer controllers as it doesn't damage the controller in the r7229 and 8250 controller
Yes it's a smart feature - but it could be more intuitive/user friendly!
Thanks for watching - Sam :)
In seriousness, the controller I have is this ancient looking thick plastic box with a big red knob on it, I'm sure its terrible compared to todays standards but it FEELS great to use, there is plenty of resistance when turning the dial so you can do really smooth changes in speed.
haha! If it feels great, and works okay, then it's probably very good indeed! :D
Thanks for watching - Sam :)
Sam, I have recently rekindled my interest in model railways, stumbled across your channel and have been glued to it ever since. Excellent work, superbly produced and amusing all at the same time. I have a question. Is the HM2000 controller a modern equivalent to the old Hammant & Morgan Duette type that I knew in my childhood? I couldn't see an answer to this in any of the comments, so apologise if I missed it! Keep up the great work, by far the best presentation on UA-cam. Great stuff!
That's fantastic to hear Nigel - thanks very much! It isn't really an equivalent, but they are excellent quality controllers - buy one of those or any Gaugemaster controller, and you can't really go wrong!
Thanks for watching - Sam :)
Thanks Sam.
Hornby Website as of 28/07/23 - £19.49 As an alternative to our R8250 Controller, the Analogue Train and Accessory Controller features an improved, heavier casing, as well as an additional uncontrolled DC output with integral capacitor discharge unit (CDU) to support solenoid point motors. The Auxiliary output can also be used to power lighting on the layout up to a current of 150mA. A recessed reduction switch also limits the output to reduce loco speed. This item does not include a transformer. However, the required P9000 Transformer can be purchased separately. Transformer is £27.49
Sam, you aren't weird when you say you like a controller knob to have a good feel and good resistance; I like this too, hence why I bought a HM2000. This my personal favourite controller on the market currently. It's not cheap, I admit, but for the resistance and power it has, is good.
Thanks Jacob - yeah I agree, it's very important to have a controller that feels right!
Thanks for watching - Sam :)
hi, another great video. ive altered a silver hornby controller to let me go forwards/backwards easily.
Thanks very much Andy! Yes I've made the same mod to one of mine - it's amazing what a difference it makes!!
Thanks for watching - Sam :)
I wonder how those new cheap Honrby PWM units would compare to my discontinued HM4000. I have to agree though, the HM2000 is a great unit, my unit is over 20 years old and still going.
haha I wonder - I'm certainly not a fan though - the noise the locos make definitely doesn't sound healthy!
Thanks for watching - Sam :)
To be fair to the new hornby controller.
When a short circuit happens its the transformer that cuts the power, not the controller as you showed it this video.
Unplugging the transformer from the controller won't reset the cutout
you need to turn off the transformer at the mains for 30 seconds that is the correct way to reset the power
Hope this helps next time you get questions about controllers
Thanks for the comment Oliver - unfortunately, that's completely untrue though. It's the controller that handles the short circuit protection - the power supply/transformer doesn't cut out!
Thanks for watching - Sam :)
Don’t make them like they used to. Great video Sam 👍
Very true David! Thanks a lot mate - appreciate it!
Thanks for watching - Sam :)
I like watching your videos as for you very knowledgeable as for model railways, many thanks Sam.
Thanks so much Roy, that's very kind of you! :D
I've got a couple of HM2000 controllers from Hornby - I've since consigned them to working shunting in siding etc. The main problem with them and the cheaper units supplied with Hornby sets is that when you approach 75% on the dial the loco's start to hesitate and flutter slightly and then once you hit 80% or more the loco charges away at high speed. When at Warley exhibition a few years ago I aske the guy on the Hornby stand why this happened - He was a blind Antelope - No eye deer ! I bought myself a duel bench power supply with two 0 -30 vlt DC constant current out puts, and the acceleration is smooth and with the constant current control some very fine slow crawls are possible, I just have to watch the digital displays so I don't go over 12 - 14 volts.
Yes you're right Paul, the output doesn't seem to be perfectly linear on the HM2000, I noticed this too! And yep - same answer as always, lol! ;D
Thanks for watching, Sam :)
@@SamsTrains did a voltage check and discovered that the first 3/4's of the dial raise the voltage from 0 to 6.9vts after the stutter the voltage raises quite quickly from 7 to 14.5vlts at maximum - a kind of turbo boost at the top end.
@Sam I asked on Hornby's Facebook page why they didn't say that the controller needed a power supply. Today, they responded saying the have now included the information on the controllers page. They've also added the information on the page for the power supply. :-)
Yes they have indeed - I noticed that too! ;D
Thanks for watching - Sam :)
I know what you mean about the hm 2000 being satisfying to turn, i have one and its definitely a way nicer feel than cheap ones and the cheap ones feel really loose and poor quality
We use the R965 controllers to run a Thomas the Tank set up for the kids at the model railway shows and get no problems at all. They appear sturdy and quite reliable unlike the cheap and nasty recent Hornby controllers. As you say they don't seem to have learned from experience but it's probably a Knob head that is deigning them.
Thanks Frank - yes the R965 are very good and reliable! I think that much must be true mate, lol! ;D
Thanks for watching - Sam :)
i have Hammot and Morgan clipper controller with the black knob this is British made got it 2nd hand you turn the knob in the direction you want your train to go it has resistance high low and full and half wave levers
That sounds very interesting Paul, thanks for sharing! :D
Thanks for watching, Sam :)
Hi Sam what controller do you run currently, I also recently received my pumpkin mobile it’s number 31 and it’s great👍
You can't use the HM with all motors; coreless one's will burn down, because of the feedback controlling. The HM is also Hornby, by the way. PM is no problem for a motor; it gave much better slow speed controlling. In the cataloque it is mentioned that you need a Transformer. Mayby the knob feels rubbish, but you get also a capacitor discharger for points with it. I think that is not bad for that price. I use the Ztc 511 controller, the best there is. For dcc and dc.
Still using the ZTC? That's last century technology. :-) I use the Roco Z21.
@@Poliss95 i have a z21; great system, but i had a issue with it, so it is back to Roco. I don't like to use the Multimaus. I still have some Ztc/zero 1 decoders, that's why i bought lately secondhand the Ztc controller. And i think it is the best for controlling a loco; specially shunting
Yeah I agree Andrew - it's not too bad for the price - the HM2000 does indeed use PWM (I've checked this too), but it's far less aggressive - and it certainly doesn't shoot out spikes of 19v, like this new one does! Thanks for the tip on the Ztc, I'll be sure to look into those!
I try not to buy locos with coreless motors - I find them poor - luckily most manufacturers seem to know this too and resist the urge to fit them! Now DJM is gone, hopefully it won't be a problem any more!
Thanks for watching - Sam :)
@@andrewsea4252 You're the first person I've heard that's had a problem with the Z21. What was the problem?
@@SamsTrains i agree with the coreless motors; i don't understand the benefit. I just bought a Bachmann set (western Rambler, very nice with a beautifull loco) which contains some track with that little controller. I have a big layout, so i laid it for fun on the table to try the loco and the controller. I agree with you, feels good, but i soon started to irritate me about the on/off switch. Why is that, just off is enough, no switch. Really like your channel, keep up the good work!
Some information on the way controllers work.
Some of those controllers are PWM... which means the amplitude is fixed at a level that will NOT damage the motor. The buzzing you hear will also not harm the loco, and is dependent purely on the frequency. This is why the new controller makes the motors buzz louder than the old one, and will probably give better slow speed control. DCC also uses PWM and you only don't hear it because the frequency on which it is based is so high. I believe the H&M uses a thyristor output, which varies the pulse frequency and amplitude, and at a higher frequency, which is why you don't hear it. In summary none of these controllers will damage a loco.
The H&M controller outputs such a high current because it has large capacitors in it's power supply. So this current is only available until those internal capacitors are discharged. Also, the aux output current available on that thing is useless for such an expensive controller.
As far as the short circuit protection is concerned, yes annoying, though I'm sure Hornby are using resetable thermal fuses to save money. They need time to cool down before they reconnect. Not sure how much proper electronic cutout would have costed, but I can't imagine that much more.
Finally, a 500mA power supply doesn't consume 500mA, it provides 500mA, which means the full 500mA is available for the controller.
Thanks Michael, although I've measured peaks of 19v DC on the modern controllers, which is known to damage more sensitive older models (I've had it happen!) But you're right, the noise doesn't indicate strain on the motor, quite right!
Thanks for watching - Sam :)
With the old controller I used to have one and when it shorted I unplug it a and bang it on the table and then it works again
haha!! That sounds marvellous - if in doubt, give it a clout!
Thanks for watching - Sam :)
I have three Bachman ez controllers and as basic plug in and go controllers I can’t fault them except as you mentioned the slow speed control
Yeah agreed - overall they're good quality and nice to use!
Thanks for watching - Sam :)
The Bachmann controller is £36 at hattons now. I was tempted to buy two, one for each line, but the HM2000 is only £94 at Hattons at the moment.
Yeah that's definitely not too bad - but I think the Gaugemaster controllers are much better - how much are those right now??
Thanks for watching - Sam :)
@@SamsTrains They've got the little Gaugemaster Combi controllers (12v, 1amp) for £34. I've got 3 tracks (2 main lines, and a little branch line I'm planning) that I want to control separately, so 3 Gaugemaster Combis seems like a smart choice I think. The down side is that means 3 transformers, so 3 plugs in the attic. Maybe an HM2000 and 1 Gaugemaster Combi is better.
'It's a really nice knob to handle...' Sam's Trains, 2022.
I wonder how it looks like on the inside? Could be a video idea coming on
haha yep - I might take it apart some time! :D
Thanks for watching - Sam :)
If you plug the adapter out of the wall plug and plug it back in it resets.
I did that in the video though! You still have to wait a time :(
Thanks for watching - Sam :)