I love the fun you're having with this! Theoretically you can run the whole thing without feeders - if your rail connections are good. Rails are good conductors. The problem comes up when you introduce a couple of questionable rail connections into the mix - suddenly each one of those adds some resistance - that you might not even notice until you start running more locomotives at one time. The extra power draw suddenly means you don't have enough amperage because of the poor connections. I've run my whole layout - including a helix - with a single set of feeders for testing purposes. No issues. I have since broken it up into "blocks" with separate feeders (plus switches to change between DC and DCC). So - although extra feeders might not be needed, they do add reliability long term!
Ken, I use DCC and have my feeders at approx each 15-18 ft. This is due to the signalling overlay on the power, when I had DC power tried to do every 8 flex sections.
hi ken. a quick walk into the interwebs and found that apparently during the railroad boom of the 1800's workers were laying 6 miles of track daily. enjoying your content very much. Thamk you.
I have read a number of articles on adding extra wires under the table to help with power issues, and it seems the weak point will be tarnish at those track connectors, but only over time. (6 months or 6 years?) Some will suggest these extra feeds at every other track section or every so many feet, as a starting point. Most will be suggesting #14 or #16 wire to some central point, which can be near the transformer / controller or elsewhere. Some sort of solid connection points with screw terminals would be best.... adding dielectric grease to prevent tarnish. OTOH, if you plan to change the layout every so often, you can skip this till it becomes an issue.
It's Atlas brand Super Flex! It has been my first choice for making any desired/needed radius. That is a cool and creative layout you are puttiing together!!!
Some people go crazy with feeders to EVERY piece of track. This will make it bullet proof. I went with 12 feet. If you suffer a power drop you can always add another feeder to that area. Good luck on your build. I enjoy your enthusiasm.
@@Kens265 If you are running regular old school D.C. it's not so important, but with D.C.C it is better to have feeder wires as you go. Most people just solder the feeder wires to the bottom of the track every 15 or so feet.
That is a fairly elaborate track layout. Church friend Dick can hardly wait for the Calgary model train show coming up. It is one of the largest displays in Canada.
In the front of the layout where the two tracks are level, try a crossover or two so the trains can traverse both main lines. Great work, you make it look so easy.
Love to see you show your progress, "warts and all"! At the model railroad club I belong to, a feeder wire is soldered to EVERY piece of rail. It goes far for reliability. That's a lot of feeders, for sure! You have already seen that two sets for 45 feet works for your purposes. For the longer track, why not try two sets spaced equally apart? If it works well enough for you, then great! If not, put two more sets of feeders in, spaced between the existing sets. Divide and conquer. ;)
Would you look at that? Even though all the know-it-alls said your grade was too steep, it actually worked :) Looks great Ken! I want to see you shoehorn another level in there next time :)
Good Morning it is MRL / man - Neil schwerdt in west valley city Utah. I just wanted to say that the big boy is coming to Ogden Utah in the first week of July. And also there is a train show in Evanston Wyoming in August first weekend of August it is a great show to see. You are having a a lot of fun. From Neil 😊
Put a feeder every twelve feet and see what happens. If you like it you are done, if your layout needs more feeders it will let you know, and it is a simple matter to add a feeder at the 6' mark. If you tie that feeder to the rail joiner then both 3' sections on either side of the joiner will have its own drop. * Happy Rails *
It is said to be a common rule to solder 2-3' sections together and add feeders every 6' but I find 12' better, provided you use 18AWG. When you try to use less feeders and smaller wires, it will run two trains, but you shorten the life of the train motors, or overwork the power control circuit. I was surprised to see you use 2"x4" supports rather than ones that look more realistic. There are several to choose from if you wish to purchase, but you are skilled enough to copy these and have a better look. BTW; minimum track radius for an HO train is 18". @ 3:14 that bend's radius is not as tight as the 2 to the left of that disposable cup @ 2:55. You don't plan on having a "round house"? Fact; April 28th 1869 was the record for tracks laid in a day, 10 miles 56 feet for the Central Pacific railroad. That record was broken in August 1870, by about 1,000 feet, by two crews of the Kansas Pacific, working from opposite ends of the same track. As we all know Kansas and the central region is fairly flat, so laying track there went faster than other places where grades and difficult excavations were needed. That train layout I suggested you buy has approx. 300' of track, working crossing signals, round house, trestles, mountains, faux waterfall, a lake, approx. 25 buildings, electric power poles & wires, people, trees, shrubs, train station, track switches, trucks & cars, farm animals and billboards. It is almost the same layout as yours except the L goes left, where yours goes right.
10 miles of track in a day is impressive, but makes me wonder how many guys are on that crew? My figuring tells me the minimum crew will be however many guys it takes to lift a section of rail.... and how many pounds per foot / yard that rail weighs. An article I just read says 100 - 200 feet a day for that minimum crew, so I suspect 80 pound rail on a main line for that example. Of course that includes, ties, ballast, spikes, etc.
"shorten the life of the train motors, or overwork the power control circuit" - what's the physics behind that? Seems that if the track resistance is high it will just reduce the motor voltage, same as running it slower. For the power controller it will just be a normal load and as if the engine was running faster.
@@HighPeakVideo Physics? Its Law formulas, Voltage Drop ( VD = I X R ) & Heat ( H = I2Rt ). HO runs on 16v so if track resistance is too high, voltage is lower. Lower voltage than recommended causes excessive heat and heat is a motor killer. It also allows rectifiers and capacitors to heat up in power supply. Using ohms law measure the track resistance, then current times resistance is voltage drop. this drop will multiply with two trains. (I is current) VD = I x R To measure track resistance, disconnect the wires from power supply and measure resistance in all wires and all track. Then there is amperage for two trains using 0.5 amps each and Ken having track that has a grade. Gradient increase, multiple trains and too many cars will speed up the heat increase. Keep the voltage drop to 2% or less, keep the grade less than 2% and limit of 5 cars per each of 2 locomotives, and everything will run within specifications.
@@smarthome2660 "Lower voltage than recommended causes excessive heat" - how is a lower voltage going to cause excessive heat, it will simply mean the motor runs slower, just as it would if you turned the voltage down using the controller. The ancient Bassett Lowke controllers were simply a variable resistance in series with the track, which is the same as if the track resistance increases. Makes no difference to the motor where the voltage comes from, it just runs slower at lower voltage. Nor does it make any difference to the power controller whether the load is entirely the motor, or is also resistance in the track, it just delivers the appropriate voltage up to the current it is rated at.
I would look to Bachmann for Model Rectifiers Controller but with that said look at the ones that have higher Amps for the length of your tracks. The connector from rail to rails need to be tight as in hard to push them together. If you are getting power loss say at 25’ and your engine is slower. Add a jumper wire to that point. But if your connector is tight on both rails you’ll be fine. Rails will get dust on them and the wheels will get carbon burn from the electrical transfer and need to be cleaned removing the carbon from them. I used dental tools and 220 grit sandpaper emery cloth and cleaned the rails as well. Thumbs up 👍.
Ken, when you said you appreciated the input from everybody 6:25, except for that one person, then you had that angry look. (Never saw that before-glad you were joking😂) I would hate to be on your bad side. 😂😂 Nice work on your build👍
Many modelers have found that with time the good conductivity of track can start to suffer as the track joints age. Things may be working great now but in time it may not. It would be better to err on the side of too many feeders than to few.
Thanks for showing us your track bending skills and tips! Thanks for pointing out that those little metal things that fit on the track are joiners and not couplers. Good distinction! The home stretch, a little like the 9th inning stretch! Wow, that engine went really well on that flex track! Wow, one track is 51 feet long and the other track is 45 feet long! It's very quiet I think! That really looks stunning Ken! Such a cool looking set-up from a new model railroader! You sure take on challenges well Ken! Thanks for this video Ken!
One could use Ohm's law to determine voltage per length of track but the connections will very the resistance. If I were doing a permanent installation I would consider soldering links of track together to lower the resistance. One could also parallel your transformers power connection to multiple spots along your track layout. Testing, how about using multi meter to measure voltage from your connection point to various spots along your track. If you see a spot with a bad connection or reduced voltage parallel your transformers connection at that point.
the extra feeds will be necessary with time, as the push connectors get tarnished, and voltage drops happen. Might be 6 months or 6 years, but it will happen.
with flex track it helps a lot if you solder the joints together before making the curve that way you don’t have a dog leg and also you don’t have to hold them in place
Ken, I hope you understand that everywhere you place a block of wood underneath the base boards of the raised sections with it running in parallel with the track above you are creating a flat spot in the track. You would be much better placing the blocks at right angles to the track direction thus alleviating the flat spot in the raised/lower section of the track. Personally I run DC and I only have power feeders on each side of the layout, but for your layout I would start with one on each side left and right for each line of track and then if you notice that the trains are running slower or not working then add another at each middle front and back.. I am of the theory that less is more.
Very interesting hobby. Started on a small set up over 50 years ago but was young and interest dwindled. Family became number one hobby. You give you track lengths in feet. What would it be at real length vs HO scale just for viewers interest?
Out west, accross the plaines they could lay 10 miles a day. Interesting point the were paid by Gov. by how maney miles they laid in a day so when they were blasting through the mountains they would lay track back at rail head in the east back and forth in the yards so they could get paid. One other thing may I suggest. When you attach rail togather especially uf you cut it, file ut with a small file on the inside top edges to get all berrs or sharp edges off. They seem to want to cause derailments.
Are you using flex track? Or are you using the small sections of track. Are you using code 50 or 70? Regarding the feeders, you should evaluate your track plan and decide if you have any reversing loops or places that will becoming dead when you throw a turn out. Divide your layout into blocks and add feeders to each block. This is even if you are running DC or DCC. Watch Toy Man, Dale has a number of videos on this subject.
Ken I miss your perfect these days but I’m shore it is. Near enough is not good enough but perfect is near enough. I’m enjoying your brothers work but he’s not as talkative as you by the way dose he have a name
I love the fun you're having with this! Theoretically you can run the whole thing without feeders - if your rail connections are good. Rails are good conductors. The problem comes up when you introduce a couple of questionable rail connections into the mix - suddenly each one of those adds some resistance - that you might not even notice until you start running more locomotives at one time. The extra power draw suddenly means you don't have enough amperage because of the poor connections. I've run my whole layout - including a helix - with a single set of feeders for testing purposes. No issues. I have since broken it up into "blocks" with separate feeders (plus switches to change between DC and DCC). So - although extra feeders might not be needed, they do add reliability long term!
Thanks I like that idea
Yearning for the days when I had the space to do this myself!
I hear you
Ken, I use DCC and have my feeders at approx each 15-18 ft. This is due to the signalling overlay on the power, when I had DC power tried to do every 8 flex sections.
Oh very cool thanks
hi ken. a quick walk into the interwebs and found that apparently during the railroad boom of the 1800's workers were laying 6 miles of track daily.
enjoying your content very much. Thamk you.
Wow that’s a lot
I have read a number of articles on adding extra wires under the table to help with power issues, and it seems the weak point will be tarnish at those track connectors, but only over time. (6 months or 6 years?) Some will suggest these extra feeds at every other track section or every so many feet, as a starting point. Most will be suggesting #14 or #16 wire to some central point, which can be near the transformer / controller or elsewhere. Some sort of solid connection points with screw terminals would be best.... adding dielectric grease to prevent tarnish. OTOH, if you plan to change the layout every so often, you can skip this till it becomes an issue.
Thanks. Changing layout is definitely a possibility
It's Atlas brand Super Flex! It has been my first choice for making any desired/needed radius. That is a cool and creative layout you are puttiing together!!!
Ok nice. Thanks
Some people go crazy with feeders to EVERY piece of track. This will make it bullet proof. I went with 12 feet. If you suffer a power drop you can always add another feeder to that area. Good luck on your build. I enjoy your enthusiasm.
Thanks I guess I need to read up on how to do that
@@Kens265 If you are running regular old school D.C. it's not so important, but with D.C.C it is better to have feeder wires as you go. Most people just solder the feeder wires to the bottom of the track every 15 or so feet.
Ken I’m Seeing On the Far Side of the Layout and Area Where you can Put a L Handed Switch For a Little Yard.
Cool I’ll look at that
Looks great .. .. most importantly you are having fun as that’s what it’s all about….
Thanks
That is a fairly elaborate track layout. Church friend Dick can hardly wait for the Calgary model train show coming up. It is one of the largest displays in Canada.
Wow wish I could go
So cool to see this Ken, i worked on the RR in Atlanta in my 20's. Some hard work as a yard switchman.
Wow. Very nice
In the front of the layout where the two tracks are level, try a crossover or two so the trains can traverse both main lines. Great work, you make it look so easy.
Cool idea
I don’t know how your wiring is done so, you may have to change your wiring to accommodate a crossover. But yes, it would be cool.
The Canadian Pacific railroad set a record of some 5 plus miles outside of Calgary in the 1800s!!
That’s a lot
Love to see you show your progress, "warts and all"! At the model railroad club I belong to, a feeder wire is soldered to EVERY piece of rail. It goes far for reliability. That's a lot of feeders, for sure! You have already seen that two sets for 45 feet works for your purposes. For the longer track, why not try two sets spaced equally apart? If it works well enough for you, then great! If not, put two more sets of feeders in, spaced between the existing sets. Divide and conquer. ;)
Thanks great advice
Okay Ken, you did it. Time for me to start an N-Scale end table that I have been thinking about for too many years.
Hahahaha that’s great
Like your vids Ken. I would feed each 3' section. Keep up the good work, and keep the fun in it.
Cool, thanks
Would you look at that? Even though all the know-it-alls said your grade was too steep, it actually worked :) Looks great Ken! I want to see you shoehorn another level in there next time :)
Thanks 👍 the third track is in the planning stage right now
Nice Layout. Can't wait to see the third level..
Thanks me neither
Ken, it’s official that you’re a engineer for the railroad 🚞 😮😊❤
Haha
Layout Looks Awsome Ken I’m Sure Some other Ideas Are gonna pop Into your Head.
Thanks yes definitely
Looks good. Can't wait for cast plaster mountains.😅
You and me both!
Good Morning it is MRL / man - Neil schwerdt in west valley city Utah.
I just wanted to say that the big boy is coming to Ogden Utah in the first week of July.
And also there is a train show in Evanston Wyoming in August first weekend of August it is a great show to see.
You are having a a lot of fun.
From Neil 😊
Good day. I bet they’re great shows
Put a feeder every twelve feet and see what happens. If you like it you are done, if your layout needs more feeders it will let you know, and it is a simple matter to add a feeder at the 6' mark. If you tie that feeder to the rail joiner then both 3' sections on either side of the joiner will have its own drop. * Happy Rails *
Cool thanks for the info
It is said to be a common rule to solder 2-3' sections together and add feeders every 6' but I find 12' better, provided you use 18AWG. When you try to use less feeders and smaller wires, it will run two trains, but you shorten the life of the train motors, or overwork the power control circuit.
I was surprised to see you use 2"x4" supports rather than ones that look more realistic. There are several to choose from if you wish to purchase, but you are skilled enough to copy these and have a better look. BTW; minimum track radius for an HO train is 18". @ 3:14 that bend's radius is not as tight as the 2 to the left of that disposable cup @ 2:55. You don't plan on having a "round house"?
Fact; April 28th 1869 was the record for tracks laid in a day, 10 miles 56 feet for the Central Pacific railroad. That record was broken in August 1870, by about 1,000 feet, by two crews of the Kansas Pacific, working from opposite ends of the same track. As we all know Kansas and the central region is fairly flat, so laying track there went faster than other places where grades and difficult excavations were needed.
That train layout I suggested you buy has approx. 300' of track, working crossing signals, round house, trestles, mountains, faux waterfall, a lake, approx. 25 buildings, electric power poles & wires, people, trees, shrubs, train station, track switches, trucks & cars, farm animals and billboards. It is almost the same layout as yours except the L goes left, where yours goes right.
10 miles of track in a day is impressive, but makes me wonder how many guys are on that crew? My figuring tells me the minimum crew will be however many guys it takes to lift a section of rail.... and how many pounds per foot / yard that rail weighs. An article I just read says 100 - 200 feet a day for that minimum crew, so I suspect 80 pound rail on a main line for that example. Of course that includes, ties, ballast, spikes, etc.
WoW that is all interesting. Thanks.
"shorten the life of the train motors, or overwork the power control circuit" - what's the physics behind that?
Seems that if the track resistance is high it will just reduce the motor voltage, same as running it slower.
For the power controller it will just be a normal load and as if the engine was running faster.
@@HighPeakVideo Physics? Its Law formulas, Voltage Drop ( VD = I X R ) & Heat ( H = I2Rt ).
HO runs on 16v so if track resistance is too high, voltage is lower. Lower voltage than recommended causes excessive heat and heat is a motor killer. It also allows rectifiers and capacitors to heat up in power supply.
Using ohms law measure the track resistance, then current times resistance is voltage drop. this drop will multiply with two trains. (I is current) VD = I x R
To measure track resistance, disconnect the wires from power supply and measure resistance in all wires and all track.
Then there is amperage for two trains using 0.5 amps each and Ken having track that has a grade. Gradient increase, multiple trains and too many cars will speed up the heat increase.
Keep the voltage drop to 2% or less, keep the grade less than 2% and limit of 5 cars per each of 2 locomotives, and everything will run within specifications.
@@smarthome2660 "Lower voltage than recommended causes excessive heat" - how is a lower voltage going to cause excessive heat, it will simply mean the motor runs slower, just as it would if you turned the voltage down using the controller. The ancient Bassett Lowke controllers were simply a variable resistance in series with the track, which is the same as if the track resistance increases. Makes no difference to the motor where the voltage comes from, it just runs slower at lower voltage. Nor does it make any difference to the power controller whether the load is entirely the motor, or is also resistance in the track, it just delivers the appropriate voltage up to the current it is rated at.
hello Ken & it's is Randy and i like yours video is cool & Thanks Ken Friends & Randy
Thanks for watching Randy
Looks great I admire very much
Thank you very much!
So cool. That really turned out fantastic!!! You've got laying track down to an art now! Kentastic job!!!
Hahahaha
WOW. You've sure come a long way since you started with your model railroad Ken. Congrats.
Thank you very much!
@@Kens265 You're welcome, you deserve a lot of accolades for all you take on, from garages, green houses, chicken coops to railroads.
I would look to Bachmann for Model Rectifiers Controller but with that said look at the ones that have higher Amps for the length of your tracks. The connector from rail to rails need to be tight as in hard to push them together. If you are getting power loss say at 25’ and your engine is slower. Add a jumper wire to that point. But if your connector is tight on both rails you’ll be fine. Rails will get dust on them and the wheels will get carbon burn from the electrical transfer and need to be cleaned removing the carbon from them. I used dental tools and 220 grit sandpaper emery cloth and cleaned the rails as well. Thumbs up 👍.
Thanks good to know
Ken buy a multi tool for cutting tracks and I only glue my cork and nail my track for easy changes.
Thanks. Do those nails just push in?
Good morning Ken, need advertising on the up piers, great job or should I fun ...off too work I go 🌴 😎
Good morning. Have a great day
Looking good Ken. Most derailments happen at turnout points first . track joiners second. and couplers out of height gauge third. Happy railroading!!👍
I think I’ve seen that
Looking good cant wait to see the final outcome.
Thanks
Ken, when you said you appreciated the input from everybody 6:25, except for that one person, then you had that angry look. (Never saw that before-glad you were joking😂) I would hate to be on your bad side. 😂😂 Nice work on your build👍
Hahahaha. Thanks. I enjoy thoughtful critique
Hi Ken That looks so good looking & am looking forward to the third line well done Ken.
Thanks 👍
A good rule of thumb is to put feeder wires every three feet or every joint on the flex track
Thanks. I must a central point then for them to come to?
@@Kens265 yes do a bus line such as red and black for the drops to come down to but always keep in mind which is which so you don’t short it out
Good job Ken.
Thanks! I appreciate it
Many modelers have found that with time the good conductivity of track can start to suffer as the track joints age. Things may be working great now but in time it may not. It would be better to err on the side of too many feeders than to few.
Thanks you’re probably right
I love watching your videos and your enthusiasm!!!
Thank you so much!!
The layout is coming together nicely. Looking forward to seeing the addition of the final circuit of track once it has been added to the layout.
Thanks me too
You should build a platform for the pooch to sit on and watch the trains run. He seems curious as to what you are doing up there.
Haha you’re probably right
Thanks for showing us your track bending skills and tips! Thanks for pointing out that those little metal things that fit on the track are joiners and not couplers. Good distinction! The home stretch, a little like the 9th inning stretch! Wow, that engine went really well on that flex track! Wow, one track is 51 feet long and the other track is 45 feet long! It's very quiet I think! That really looks stunning Ken! Such a cool looking set-up from a new model railroader! You sure take on challenges well Ken! Thanks for this video Ken!
Thanks onward and upward now
Yeah all I am that guy that always says choo choo choo chooo~~~! annoyingly when you start up the train !! " that person " LOL 😂
Haha
Great track work.
Thanks
One could use Ohm's law to determine voltage per length of track but the connections will very the resistance. If I were doing a permanent installation I would consider soldering links of track together to lower the resistance. One could also parallel your transformers power connection to multiple spots along your track layout. Testing, how about using multi meter to measure voltage from your connection point to various spots along your track. If you see a spot with a bad connection or reduced voltage parallel your transformers connection at that point.
Cool thanks
I would recommend 22" radius
Train stopped.
Thanks
Haha
Great job
Thanks
2:53 You say "Hope it works" - a good rule, if it works why bother with extra feeds.
the extra feeds will be necessary with time, as the push connectors get tarnished, and voltage drops happen. Might be 6 months or 6 years, but it will happen.
Thanks
I guess I should add extra feeds
@@Kens265 I thought you were soldering the joints Ken - then there will be no voltage drop due to tarnishing.
with flex track it helps a lot if you solder the joints together before making the curve that way you don’t have a dog leg and also you don’t have to hold them in place
Good idea
...and the progress continues. Thanks
You bet! Thanks for watching
That Southern railway ballast car is used in work trains and not for mainline service.
Thanks I didn’t know that
Well done Sir Ken.
Thanks
Makes me think of the Jetsons, with their Skyways.... :-)
Haha yes
Ken, I hope you understand that everywhere you place a block of wood underneath the base boards of the raised sections with it running in parallel with the track above you are creating a flat spot in the track. You would be much better placing the blocks at right angles to the track direction thus alleviating the flat spot in the raised/lower section of the track. Personally I run DC and I only have power feeders on each side of the layout, but for your layout I would start with one on each side left and right for each line of track and then if you notice that the trains are running slower or not working then add another at each middle front and back.. I am of the theory that less is more.
Thanks for the input
The train track is a chugga choo chooing right along!!! 😅
Haha it surely is
Ken: You can also solder your rail joiners to insure you get conductivity.
You only have 2 locos!
Right thanks
Great work. I always enjoy watching your progress!
Thank you very much!
Very interesting hobby. Started on a small set up over 50 years ago but was young and interest dwindled. Family became number one hobby. You give you track lengths in feet. What would it be at real length vs HO scale just for viewers interest?
Thanks about 4,400 feet
Out west, accross the plaines they could lay 10 miles a day.
Interesting point the were paid by Gov. by how maney miles they laid in a day so when they were blasting through the mountains they would lay track back at rail head in the east back and forth in the yards so they could get paid.
One other thing may I suggest. When you attach rail togather especially uf you cut it, file ut with a small file on the inside top edges to get all berrs or sharp edges off. They seem to want to cause derailments.
Oh thanks
I run feeders to each piece of track but not the turnouts. It may ne overkill but I have no power issues.
Thanks for the info
Tolle Arbeit 👏🏻👋😉
Thanks I appreciate it
Well done!!! Does Kaiya mind you stomping around in her play area?
She sometimes closes her gate locking me in
@@Kens265 LOL!!!
My layout I always put at one feeder from first to be safe can't hurt my second loop has 4 toatol
Nice sounds good
Use push pins since you will not use track nails. I put track power feeders every 12 feet.
Thanks good to know
I was scepticle, Nice!
Haha thanks
Good day to all.
Good morning
I add feeders every 15-20 feet.
Good to know thank you
As I was watching the trains roll I was picturing Donner Pass .... (The Sierra Mountains) 😁
Oh wow cool
the witch from the wizard of oz said that.
Hahahaha that’s right!
Finally the engineer hat. Are you going to run a second circuit so you can run the two trains independently?
It already is
Dick also told me that steam locomotive 2816 departs Calgary next Friday April 26.
Oh wow
Are you building Saluda grade which is on the Southern Railway going in the southern mountains North Carolina.
Not intentionally. But I do want mountainous effect
Love the cap.....
Haha thanks
🤠🖐🚂🫵
The third level! I’d be lost without my cheaters.
Haha
EZ Track and FLEX Track 👍
Haha yes. Thanks
Hi Philip here me and my girlfriend are doing my layout like yours but in 00 scale is that ok let me know
Sounds great have fun with that
@@Kens265 hi right ok then will do
You Mean Flextrack From Atlas.
Maybe?
Ken it needs a train station
It definitely does
Are you using flex track? Or are you using the small sections of track. Are you using code 50 or 70?
Regarding the feeders, you should evaluate your track plan and decide if you have any reversing loops or places that will becoming dead when you throw a turn out. Divide your layout into blocks and add feeders to each block. This is even if you are running DC or DCC. Watch Toy Man, Dale has a number of videos on this subject.
One track is flex track the other is easy set. I believe the track is code 100.
I use afeeder on every other piece when i use 3 foot sections. That way every section gets power from one end or the other
Cool I’ve got to study up on that’ll
You have a very unique approach to this hobby. No turnouts! Are you going to cover this with scenery?
Thanks. Yes of some sort
Because of the grade you wiil not be able to pull long trains.
I agree. If only I had more engines! :)
Ken I miss your perfect these days but I’m shore it is. Near enough is not good enough but perfect is near enough. I’m enjoying your brothers work but he’s not as talkative as you by the way dose he have a name
Haha. Yes. His name is Mike
Your trains are going to go round and round. What's the point? You'll be bored in no time. Find out about switchind and add coupke of towns ASAP.
Thanks I’m actually adding a third line
comment
My track is 130 feet and I don't have any feeders
Wow that’s impressive