Yea nahh, F those guys. You needed an account to use the dam thing and there was never an open source CPU and it couldn't run GCode. Sorry that was an absolute non starter for me. I was absolutely pissed about that and very glad I got it via Amazon and they let me return it. I would have absolute loved the printer but nope, They had to go fuck it up with a "you must have an account" lock. Seriously, you shouldn't have even done this video. They are not worthy to stand in the presence of such ppms.
@@Cetus3D Good! It should have never needed it in the first place. Release that open source CPU that can process GCode and you may have earned business.
I feel like Tiertime has been promising open-source CPU modules for years, but hasn't gotten it done. I ended up giving up and replaced their control board with a Duet 3 mini 5+, which works well. (Then you realize the hotend isn't that great, and I replaced that too ;)
@@mvadu Doing a conversion from an Up Mini 2(As I love the compact enclosed design) originally using TinyFab's board. They are all sold out on the esp32 so I ended up however making a custom PCB so I can use an AtMega2560 and run Marlin as if it was a RAMbO board for the sake of simplicity. Others have got the original touch screen working with it too, so that'll be fun once that also works. And yeah, the hotend is garbage, but the Up Mini 2's main structure, carry handle and enclosed design make it a worthy base.
@@mass1s I got a Hemera. I had to design a mount that slides into the OEM carriage and holds a Bltouch and part cooling fan. Some build volume was lost, but with that mod and some stick-on PEI for the bed, the prints are excellent every time in PLA and PETG. (I haven't put the enclosure back on for ABS. Screwing around with excessive LED lighting at the moment.) I also replaced the OEM 19v power supply with a 24v power supply. The heated bed is now significantly less weedy. Happily gets up to 90C without the enclosure, for PETG. Just for the sake of completeness, I somehow burned out the X motor at one point, and replaced that with a random $10 one from Amazon. The new one is much quieter than the included motors, which makes me want to replace them all. However, it's a big pain because the gears are glued on, and the printer uses 1.5mm pitch belts which I can't find parts for anywhere. I had to disassemble the broken motor and drop the shaft in boiling water for a while to get the gear to come loose, then superglue it onto the new motor. Very janky, but it works. My conclusion is that I wouldn't buy one of these just to mod, but if you made a mistake and got a Tiertime as your first printer, you can turn it into a very enjoyable piece of equipment with a lot of work :)
Bought a Cetus MK3 a while back, after you mentioned it in a few videos. That thing was the sh*ttiest printer on the market. Wouldn’t buy anything from Tiertime again.
I Bought that piece of shit too after the review from Marco, years ago. Only what left of it are some aluminium profiles. At first the printer printed fine. Than rapidely started the problems. The end was a huge blob of filament on the nozzle. I still see some of the videos from Marco, but the reconmandations from him I do let it for what they are
Don't care much for the printer itself, but I'd buy that hotend in a heartbeat, this looks like the best of both worlds in terms of having only one nozzle but not needing purge tower.
The extruder tip as a probe sensor via strain gauge is my favorite 'new' thing to catch on with 3D printers, I fell in love with Creality's implementation and honestly wish every printer has it now haha
I do wonder how feasible it would be to add to a printer that uses roller-on-extrusion like a cheapo ender 3. Or how accurate it is compared to the good old BLtouch.
@@Scrogan that's exactly what the CR6 is. An improved Ender 3 style unit (rollers on extrusion) with some specific tweaks for reliability and performance (dual z axis, silent steppers, underside PSU, an actual screen, etc) with the most notable improvement being the strain gauge bed levelling. I've not had the opportunity to do direct comparisons with printers that come with BLTouch preinstalled and preconfigured, so I may just have had consistently bad experiences, but I've never found the BLTouch system to be polished, reliable, or fully functional without at least -some- amount of fiddling (and quite frequently still requiring a full manual bed levelling anyway, which entirely defeats the purpose of ABL tools) I'd wager that BLTouch is a fine way for people to spend a little extra money and make their machine a little more complex - ideal for the people who like to tinker with a machine for a hobby, rather than being ideal for the people who want a functional tool out of the box when they order a printer. Perhaps there will be some major company that manages to seamlessly integrate a BLTouch directly from factory for true ABL, without charging 3x what creality does, but I haven't seen any printers worth buying like that yet. Maybe Elegoo? Who knows
@@peterzingler6221 No, BLTouch and strain-gauge/pressure-sensing ones work on any solid bed. If your bed is so soft that you can't touch it with a probe/nozzle, then you've got a much bigger problem to worry about. Perhaps you're thinking of capsense ABL systems, which only work with metal beds?
I backed the Kickstarter back when you made this video. It finally arrived in the mail a couple days ago. The machine has a fatal flaw where there is a singular M4 screw bolting the carriage to the Y arm, so it will loosen very quickly with any amount of use. Also, using a third-party slicer seems to be impossible at the moment. I can't remember if they ever promised that you'd be able to, but it's impossible as of this writing. The nozzle is replaceable now too, and they have solved the handful of software glitches you highlighted in your review.
They have a discord describing how to get it to work with Cura and Prusa Slicer currently. But its very jank and doesn't work exactly how you want it. More of an add-in that translates the information back to whatever proprietary code the printer runs on. Mines been gathering dust.. If I could swap the mainboard with something that makes more sense I would probably use it more. Its a great skeleton
New printer but the same cantilever design with even heavier extruder. Original had problems with ghosting and I suppose this won't fix them. Also proprietary board and slicer are a no-go for me. For $315(likely more when released) it seems kinda hard to justify. For that money you can buy an encloesd ones(I know an owner of a flashforge adventurer 3 and he is happy with it), and if you include DIY it doesn't really make sense.
As a Cetus mk3 owner, I really won't recommend it if you are after good looking 3D prints. Overall, the print quality isn't that great when comparing to faster CoreXY 3D printers, Prusa mk3/mk4 or even Creality Ender 3. My main problems were the original slicing program UPStudio, the lack of expert settings (used to work with Prusa mk3 printers in uni) and closed hardware. This was like 2 years ago and I can see there are many improvements in Marco's video. TBH I secretly hoped Cetus mk3 would be my cheaper Prusa Mini, buuut it wasn't. I ended up upgrading the Cetus to Duet 2 Wifi, which gave me a lot of freedom in configuring prints as I liked. Upgrade to the Duet gave print quality boost immediately (no more overflowed corners or seams) but there are still some issues with the quality of the hotend + hotend stepper placement and not-that-rigid Z-axis (because Z needs to lift of the weight of the hotend + X axis itself) + there isn't any hotbed at all. I might need to replace/upgrade those when I have time and cash. Currently this small printer has costed me around 450-500€ with all the upgrades (Duet, power supply and quieter fans). Consider also the slicer you are going to use, how well it works and are there any quirks or problems in hardware/mechanics before the purchase. Don't know if this rant helped, but there you have it!
great to hear from you again 😊 interesting printer. I guess you have seen @CNC Kitchen video, about changing the motherboard in his printer.. Thanks for sharing your experience with all of us 👍🙂
The large steel panel, behind the two high hardness rods, keeps the alignment within .001 inches of the required tolerances. It also adds the shear strength. It is the shear panel that keeps the device stable and not deflecting or vibrating during operation.
I think you'd end up making some co-extruded filament instead of a true mixed plastic filament if you extrude them at the same time (since the nozzle is likely smooth enough to keep laminar flow going)
That wavetek tip led me to callab magazine. Another rabbit hole to follow.. oh well.
2 роки тому+6
New Marco Reps video? Nice. About 3D printers? Whoa great. The 3D printer is an inferior machine still stuck at 2016 with glass plates, cantilever arm, proprietary software and hardware, only flexing unnecessary amount of rigidity for FDM technology? Bummer.
Yes it could lead to artefects. It is to bad that they are have such a steady frame but a wobbly Y axis. But I think it's not noticeable if the printing speed is not crasy fast.
@Marco Reps I know that you are fan (or video is sponsored?) of cetus but you probably never used any other printer. Please print the 3DBenchy is good test for 3d printer so you will see that this printer is one of the worse which exist in this price. I have Cetus Extended last edition and is the worst printer I've ever used. This printer with comparison to prusa mk3 or ender 3 is very very bad. This printer is much louder. A plastic plate as a table is the worst possible idea. The standard for a long time are flexible sheets that have a great grip. But the worst thing is their slicer. Minimal options and missing a lot of the ones that really come in handy. However, configuring it to work with cura or prusaslicer is very difficult and even then you lose the ability to preview what is happening with the printer because you only have the generated gcode.
I was wondering when a worthy successor to the Cetus would be released, I will not back any kickstarter though as you are not only gambling wether you actualy get the machine but more often than not an early iteration is bug laden!
I've been doing multi-material bonding with a prusa MK3s+ for a while, even with a MMU2S its still quite a manual process, the prusaslicer still doesn't have functionality to deal with material changes (despite being called a multi-material system, go figure lol) i.e. TPU-PETG hotend temp differences so you have to edit the gcode as required. This looks like it could be a step in the right direction.
I completely agree. While I love the MK3s+, the MMU2S has been a huge disappointment... regular jamming, very slow to switch filaments, buggy in many areas. Just terrible overall...
Just got the Kickstarter model up and running. The UI is better and loading and unloading filament is easier. Auto bed level works from the screen. Can confirm wifi as well. The USB and SD card location moved to the right side of the screen. The nozzle is user replaceable but I'm not sure how to do it though.
2:03 I don't know much at all about these things but I did notice that the glass(?) base seems to be deflecting when doing that calibration. I'd imagine this will affect accuracy.
I don't think it's deflecting. It just looks like it because the X axis rail is moving up and down. Look at the reflection of the lab instruments in the back left corner of the bed. They seem to be stationary.
If you look at the outer edges of the bed, with the video at 0.5x speed, you will see that there is no noticeable deflection (movement) of the bed while it pushes down on it, it stays perfectly stationary compared to the background and also compared to the printers base.
Same man, stopped using my fdm printer and use my resin printer non stop, even bought another bigger elegoo saturn to print bigger things the mars 2 pro cant 😂
The "weird hybrid plastics" you mentioned are actually an applied practice in the extrusion industry. Blends are often achieved with dual-screw-extruders blending the two materials in-situ when it goes through the injection-nozzle.
I am far more interested in an improved UP Studio. I haven't printed in months since I bought a Cetus. UP Studio is just so insufficient. Will UP Studio 3 run the Cetus as well as the Cetus2?
do i have to make a good 5 axis cnc compatible actually-fucking-works slicer for 3d printers that fully supports multi material and whatever else you need it to do myself?
Hmmmmmm, that's a good deal for a printer with those capabilities, but what does it do if I don't want a multi-material print? Can I print from multiple spools for extremely large, uninterrupted prints? I am in the market for a high end printer and want something bigger than the Pulse XE or Sidekick 747. but preferably less than or around 2k USD.
Voron Trident (≈1.5k) or Voron 2 (V2.4r1, ≈2k bucks) Can't beat the CoreXY in terms of rigidity, and rigidity determines the possible speed/print quality spectrum. The V2 goes up to 350mm³ (If you think you'll ever build something that big) but smaller printers are more rigid (Again, = faster/better prints) They're also enclosed, so that means higher temp materials like ABS, ASA and Nylon are possible depending on your hotend. Only problem? You gotta buy kits or parts and build it yourself.
Not convinced yet. The dual hotend isn't going to be very practical for extensive dual material prints and seems to limit the cooling options as well as the nozzle options. The huge heater cartridges have very little surface actually going to the nozzle. They mostly heat themselves. Also, without some form of enclosure, multi material is pretty much limited to pla and pva. The printer is going to be a materialized compromise.
Why do these guys cantilever so much :/ Could've used the bed as the y. How does the esp32 get the amount of pins a printer needs tho Not a fan of the single nozzle dual extruder tho. Seperate ones are always better. Way better It's still cool tho :o
I feel a gap in my soul without frequent marco videos
Me too - however this one was a bit soul-less with low volumes of the usual Germanic sarcasm.
Today just a quick look at a prototype before their Kickstarter ends ... got something bigger in the pipeline
Yea nahh, F those guys. You needed an account to use the dam thing and there was never an open source CPU and it couldn't run GCode. Sorry that was an absolute non starter for me. I was absolutely pissed about that and very glad I got it via Amazon and they let me return it. I would have absolute loved the printer but nope, They had to go fuck it up with a "you must have an account" lock.
Seriously, you shouldn't have even done this video. They are not worthy to stand in the presence of such ppms.
@@MorRobots for the lazier of us, is there some proof of this?
@@MorRobots we removed the account activation thing already, new printer should not need any activation to use.
@@MorRobots Now it supports Gcode from 3rd party slicer eg Cura, directly no need to go through up studio
@@Cetus3D Good! It should have never needed it in the first place. Release that open source CPU that can process GCode and you may have earned business.
Oh hell yeah a new Marco video
Thanks for encouraging us to take a closer look regarding the risks of kickstarter and thanks for the video ❤️
I feel like Tiertime has been promising open-source CPU modules for years, but hasn't gotten it done. I ended up giving up and replaced their control board with a Duet 3 mini 5+, which works well. (Then you realize the hotend isn't that great, and I replaced that too ;)
Yea they aren't releasing open source shit. Don't hold your breath, it's bulshit.
Same here.. I went to TinyFab cpu and board.. Running with Smoothieware. But smoothie itself isn't great.. I did change the extruder to titan as well.
I too upgraded my cetus with a Duet 3 mini 5 + wifi. What extruder/hotend are you running? I just bought a Biqu H2 V2 extruder/hotend for it.
@@mvadu Doing a conversion from an Up Mini 2(As I love the compact enclosed design) originally using TinyFab's board. They are all sold out on the esp32 so I ended up however making a custom PCB so I can use an AtMega2560 and run Marlin as if it was a RAMbO board for the sake of simplicity. Others have got the original touch screen working with it too, so that'll be fun once that also works.
And yeah, the hotend is garbage, but the Up Mini 2's main structure, carry handle and enclosed design make it a worthy base.
@@mass1s I got a Hemera. I had to design a mount that slides into the OEM carriage and holds a Bltouch and part cooling fan. Some build volume was lost, but with that mod and some stick-on PEI for the bed, the prints are excellent every time in PLA and PETG. (I haven't put the enclosure back on for ABS. Screwing around with excessive LED lighting at the moment.) I also replaced the OEM 19v power supply with a 24v power supply. The heated bed is now significantly less weedy. Happily gets up to 90C without the enclosure, for PETG.
Just for the sake of completeness, I somehow burned out the X motor at one point, and replaced that with a random $10 one from Amazon. The new one is much quieter than the included motors, which makes me want to replace them all. However, it's a big pain because the gears are glued on, and the printer uses 1.5mm pitch belts which I can't find parts for anywhere. I had to disassemble the broken motor and drop the shaft in boiling water for a while to get the gear to come loose, then superglue it onto the new motor. Very janky, but it works.
My conclusion is that I wouldn't buy one of these just to mod, but if you made a mistake and got a Tiertime as your first printer, you can turn it into a very enjoyable piece of equipment with a lot of work :)
Marco Reps video on my birthday??? I'm feeling lucky!
That jump cut @4:37 tripped me up!
damn this is actually quite cool. i hope they end up releasing just the hotend/nozzle system for the hobby market, id defo want that.
That digeridoo solo is the logical thing to do when you have something that can be used that way.
Ah finally another video from Marco ! Interesting 3D printer !
Finally!!! Been a while, ways worth the wait
Bought a Cetus MK3 a while back, after you mentioned it in a few videos. That thing was the sh*ttiest printer on the market. Wouldn’t buy anything from Tiertime again.
I Bought that piece of shit too after the review from Marco, years ago. Only what left of it are some aluminium profiles. At first the printer printed fine. Than rapidely started the problems. The end was a huge blob of filament on the nozzle. I still see some of the videos from Marco, but the reconmandations from him I do let it for what they are
thank you. love all your productions
mixing 2 materials would be EXTREMELY interesting and game changing!
ITS A GOOD DAY WHEN MARCO POSTS
Lange aufbleiben lohnt Sicht :)
:))))
He's back! All is good
Don't care much for the printer itself, but I'd buy that hotend in a heartbeat, this looks like the best of both worlds in terms of having only one nozzle but not needing purge tower.
The extruder tip as a probe sensor via strain gauge is my favorite 'new' thing to catch on with 3D printers, I fell in love with Creality's implementation and honestly wish every printer has it now haha
I do wonder how feasible it would be to add to a printer that uses roller-on-extrusion like a cheapo ender 3. Or how accurate it is compared to the good old BLtouch.
@@Scrogan that's exactly what the CR6 is. An improved Ender 3 style unit (rollers on extrusion) with some specific tweaks for reliability and performance (dual z axis, silent steppers, underside PSU, an actual screen, etc) with the most notable improvement being the strain gauge bed levelling.
I've not had the opportunity to do direct comparisons with printers that come with BLTouch preinstalled and preconfigured, so I may just have had consistently bad experiences, but I've never found the BLTouch system to be polished, reliable, or fully functional without at least -some- amount of fiddling (and quite frequently still requiring a full manual bed levelling anyway, which entirely defeats the purpose of ABL tools)
I'd wager that BLTouch is a fine way for people to spend a little extra money and make their machine a little more complex - ideal for the people who like to tinker with a machine for a hobby, rather than being ideal for the people who want a functional tool out of the box when they order a printer.
Perhaps there will be some major company that manages to seamlessly integrate a BLTouch directly from factory for true ABL, without charging 3x what creality does, but I haven't seen any printers worth buying like that yet. Maybe Elegoo? Who knows
Only works with glas beds tho
@@peterzingler6221 No, BLTouch and strain-gauge/pressure-sensing ones work on any solid bed. If your bed is so soft that you can't touch it with a probe/nozzle, then you've got a much bigger problem to worry about.
Perhaps you're thinking of capsense ABL systems, which only work with metal beds?
I backed the Kickstarter back when you made this video. It finally arrived in the mail a couple days ago.
The machine has a fatal flaw where there is a singular M4 screw bolting the carriage to the Y arm, so it will loosen very quickly with any amount of use. Also, using a third-party slicer seems to be impossible at the moment. I can't remember if they ever promised that you'd be able to, but it's impossible as of this writing.
The nozzle is replaceable now too, and they have solved the handful of software glitches you highlighted in your review.
They have a discord describing how to get it to work with Cura and Prusa Slicer currently. But its very jank and doesn't work exactly how you want it. More of an add-in that translates the information back to whatever proprietary code the printer runs on. Mines been gathering dust.. If I could swap the mainboard with something that makes more sense I would probably use it more. Its a great skeleton
Damn, I was starting to wonder if you was still around. Good to know. Hope you're well.
Woah! A new video! Finally a reason to live for!
New printer but the same cantilever design with even heavier extruder. Original had problems with ghosting and I suppose this won't fix them. Also proprietary board and slicer are a no-go for me. For $315(likely more when released) it seems kinda hard to justify. For that money you can buy an encloesd ones(I know an owner of a flashforge adventurer 3 and he is happy with it), and if you include DIY it doesn't really make sense.
I've waited for a while now to buy the original Cetus. Looks like I found my new favourite!
As a Cetus mk3 owner, I really won't recommend it if you are after good looking 3D prints. Overall, the print quality isn't that great when comparing to faster CoreXY 3D printers, Prusa mk3/mk4 or even Creality Ender 3.
My main problems were the original slicing program UPStudio, the lack of expert settings (used to work with Prusa mk3 printers in uni) and closed hardware. This was like 2 years ago and I can see there are many improvements in Marco's video. TBH I secretly hoped Cetus mk3 would be my cheaper Prusa Mini, buuut it wasn't.
I ended up upgrading the Cetus to Duet 2 Wifi, which gave me a lot of freedom in configuring prints as I liked. Upgrade to the Duet gave print quality boost immediately (no more overflowed corners or seams) but there are still some issues with the quality of the hotend + hotend stepper placement and not-that-rigid Z-axis (because Z needs to lift of the weight of the hotend + X axis itself) + there isn't any hotbed at all. I might need to replace/upgrade those when I have time and cash. Currently this small printer has costed me around 450-500€ with all the upgrades (Duet, power supply and quieter fans).
Consider also the slicer you are going to use, how well it works and are there any quirks or problems in hardware/mechanics before the purchase.
Don't know if this rant helped, but there you have it!
Man love the part of you making music :^P
great to hear from you again 😊
interesting printer. I guess you have seen @CNC Kitchen video, about changing the motherboard in his printer..
Thanks for sharing your experience with all of us 👍🙂
issa good day when MARCO REPS DROPssss babyyyy
Yay another video! Thanks!
The large steel panel, behind the two high hardness rods, keeps the alignment within .001 inches of the required tolerances. It also adds the shear strength. It is the shear panel that keeps the device stable and not deflecting or vibrating during operation.
babe wake up, marco reps just posted a new video
lol donation to them on Kickstarter. Love the nuance and cleverness in your sense of humour.
5:50 When you need to summon Dave Jones.
Nice to see you
Cool video!
I think you'd end up making some co-extruded filament instead of a true mixed plastic filament if you extrude them at the same time (since the nozzle is likely smooth enough to keep laminar flow going)
Do my eyes deceive me? Marco "not dead afterall" Reps posts a crispy biscuit after 3 months? Perfect break time.
That's one cool mochine!
Now all you need to do is combine this with two Pallette Filament Splicers for the ultimate 16 material print.
happy lunar New Year
The more I look into 3D printers, core XY is way to go
Voron
@@impact224488 This is the way.
Damn UA-cam didn't even recommend me the new upload
You should build a Voron
Good ol' 3D printer review
That wavetek tip led me to callab magazine. Another rabbit hole to follow.. oh well.
New Marco Reps video? Nice. About 3D printers? Whoa great. The 3D printer is an inferior machine still stuck at 2016 with glass plates, cantilever arm, proprietary software and hardware, only flexing unnecessary amount of rigidity for FDM technology? Bummer.
WhEaRe ArE tHe ViDeOs ?! :) schön zu hören das es dich noch gibt
Suddenly a wild Marco appears...
I'm no engineer or 3D print enthusiast, but doesn't only having the print head supported on one side greatly reduce rigidity?
Yes it could lead to artefects. It is to bad that they are have such a steady frame but a wobbly Y axis. But I think it's not noticeable if the printing speed is not crasy fast.
I hope you will make a video about your new soldering station .
Nice Digeridoo action :D
Endlich wieder feinstes mett
@Marco Reps I know that you are fan (or video is sponsored?) of cetus but you probably never used any other printer. Please print the 3DBenchy is good test for 3d printer so you will see that this printer is one of the worse which exist in this price. I have Cetus Extended last edition and is the worst printer I've ever used. This printer with comparison to prusa mk3 or ender 3 is very very bad. This printer is much louder. A plastic plate as a table is the worst possible idea. The standard for a long time are flexible sheets that have a great grip. But the worst thing is their slicer. Minimal options and missing a lot of the ones that really come in handy. However, configuring it to work with cura or prusaslicer is very difficult and even then you lose the ability to preview what is happening with the printer because you only have the generated gcode.
Oh dang! Didn't know they were shipping already...
„… and I am told that this early prototype is far from finished.“
sorry for the latency butttt
have a good day everyone
I wish this came out before I bought a prusa
bout time
I was wondering when a worthy successor to the Cetus would be released, I will not back any kickstarter though as you are not only gambling wether you actualy get the machine but more often than not an early iteration is bug laden!
that didgeridoo sound was awesome, do you have a lot of Ausies among the viewers?
Where can I see more of your content? I've watched every video twice.
Patreon! There's years worth of behind the scenes stuff and even one or two episodes with some production value :)
@@reps Production value? I'm sold!
The printer itself looks nice, but wake me up when you can use a non-proprietary slicer
grandpa！！！， your favourite youtuber upload a new video!
I've been doing multi-material bonding with a prusa MK3s+ for a while, even with a MMU2S its still quite a manual process, the prusaslicer still doesn't have functionality to deal with material changes (despite being called a multi-material system, go figure lol) i.e. TPU-PETG hotend temp differences so you have to edit the gcode as required. This looks like it could be a step in the right direction.
I completely agree. While I love the MK3s+, the MMU2S has been a huge disappointment... regular jamming, very slow to switch filaments, buggy in many areas. Just terrible overall...
The lack of being able to set different temperatures for different parts or vertically really annoys me, I hope they add that
Why are you not using Cura? It is more than capable of multi material slicing
@@ThylineTheGay You can set pretty much everything for any model, it's a hacky workaround with modifiers and stuff, but works.
Just got the Kickstarter model up and running. The UI is better and loading and unloading filament is easier. Auto bed level works from the screen. Can confirm wifi as well. The USB and SD card location moved to the right side of the screen. The nozzle is user replaceable but I'm not sure how to do it though.
This printer is a piece of shit
@@Kedzie_ yeah for the most part. The nozzle replacement isn't that bad, but you do have to print PLA at 240C which isn't great
2:03 I don't know much at all about these things but I did notice that the glass(?) base seems to be deflecting when doing that calibration. I'd imagine this will affect accuracy.
I don't think it's deflecting. It just looks like it because the X axis rail is moving up and down. Look at the reflection of the lab instruments in the back left corner of the bed. They seem to be stationary.
If you look at the outer edges of the bed, with the video at 0.5x speed, you will see that there is no noticeable deflection (movement) of the bed while it pushes down on it, it stays perfectly stationary compared to the background and also compared to the printers base.
Already kickstartered mine. Can’t wait…
Same man, stopped using my fdm printer and use my resin printer non stop, even bought another bigger elegoo saturn to print bigger things the mars 2 pro cant 😂
The double cantilevered gantry makes me feel a touch uncomfortable.
Thumbs up on this video for some excellent jidgerydooing
Could you share the 3d print files for the fume hood tube? I could really use it!
Now I'm torn, have been looking at the RatRig V-Core 3 for a while now but that Cetus might be an equally viable option for my purposes
Why not get a voron?
I want that extruder with sensor on my anycubic i3 mega :D
The "weird hybrid plastics" you mentioned are actually an applied practice in the extrusion industry. Blends are often achieved with dual-screw-extruders blending the two materials in-situ when it goes through the injection-nozzle.
why does your wireless charger have an emu on it?
also love your voice and this video style.
I am far more interested in an improved UP Studio. I haven't printed in months since I bought a Cetus. UP Studio is just so insufficient. Will UP Studio 3 run the Cetus as well as the Cetus2?
do i have to make a good 5 axis cnc compatible actually-fucking-works slicer for 3d printers that fully supports multi material and whatever else you need it to do myself?
Marcooooo
Holy cow...
YEEEEEES
From where did u get the flexible suction tube...
This guy definitely needs a fan modifications.
HmMMm? More FDM stuff? Come on Marco, come build a Voron or a completely DIY 3d printer and crush other people in the speedboat race :D
Arms can wobble
(Sees Thumbnail) It's Pikachu!
What's that black HP3458 in the background?
Hmmmmmm, that's a good deal for a printer with those capabilities, but what does it do if I don't want a multi-material print? Can I print from multiple spools for extremely large, uninterrupted prints?
I am in the market for a high end printer and want something bigger than the Pulse XE or Sidekick 747. but preferably less than or around 2k USD.
Voron Trident (≈1.5k) or Voron 2 (V2.4r1, ≈2k bucks)
Can't beat the CoreXY in terms of rigidity, and rigidity determines the possible speed/print quality spectrum. The V2 goes up to 350mm³ (If you think you'll ever build something that big) but smaller printers are more rigid (Again, = faster/better prints)
They're also enclosed, so that means higher temp materials like ABS, ASA and Nylon are possible depending on your hotend.
Only problem? You gotta buy kits or parts and build it yourself.
vhere iz ze cnc?
1:17 the lead screw rod is very wobbly. Hope they replace it with a stepper with integrated rod instead of using a coupler
uninteresting.
A frog with an antenna
Not convinced yet. The dual hotend isn't going to be very practical for extensive dual material prints and seems to limit the cooling options as well as the nozzle options. The huge heater cartridges have very little surface actually going to the nozzle. They mostly heat themselves.
Also, without some form of enclosure, multi material is pretty much limited to pla and pva. The printer is going to be a materialized compromise.
Why do these guys cantilever so much :/
Could've used the bed as the y.
How does the esp32 get the amount of pins a printer needs tho
Not a fan of the single nozzle dual extruder tho. Seperate ones are always better. Way better
It's still cool tho :o
Disappointed to see that the Z axis rails are not fully supported.
I feel like that 'nozzle' could've been made much... cheaper. better. With swappable components rather than laser welded.
Don’t forget that it’s an early prototype at this point
@@maxwfk prototype? for a basic mixer? come on. they're selling it as a product. we're way past "prototype" if we involve LASER WELDING.
@@dimitar4y it’s literally a kickstarter at the moment. He even said that it’s a prototype in the video
@@maxwfk kickstarter has a 99% scam rate.
@@dimitar4y cope
No IDEX :(
w00t
And I was about to go to sleep
Well at least it's weekend
oh no not 7 more minutes....
@@nerddub well I am sleep deprived because of covid 😅
@@awesomefacepalm good luck mate, slip into restful sleep after Marco’s awesome content as usual
@@nerddub thanks man
WHY glass bed...
Kinda sad that they didn't use linear rails on z.
Where did you disappear to Its been so lonnnnnnnnnnnggggggggggggggggggggggg.
I didn't know they made printers that can print multiple filaments without additional heads or purge towers. Very cool.
Neat but i think the printer is pretty bad from the design to the end result quality.