Great video, iam an ex engineer now part time handyman and it never sees to amaze me how much bodging/bad practices go on. 80% of my work now is correcting work from previous jobs that have been done.
Nice neat job well done,and at the risk of sounding pedantic the term is mortar,you mix the sand with cement to make a composite mix generally known as mortar or sometimes compo. I would advise against the use of washing up liquid as a plastisier as its full of salts and can sometimes crystallise and in cold weather run down the face of the brick and cause staining which looks a mess, also use a trowel not a scraper. However what ever gets the job done as they say, its just my opinion, doesn't mean Im right and it does look a damd sight better 😊
It'a a pet peeve of mine to see brickwork that's been badly patched (and I'm not a Brickie).You've done a grand job and I'm sure your customer thought so too.
Class B semi facings 6 or 5:1 is more than enough, won’t cause spalling, 2:1 too strong. Tone down colour with black brick dye. It’s worth mixing a few small batches of various amounts of dye to get the mortar matched. Trial and error but worth it. Washing up liquid should never be used in mortar, detergent and salt leaching will cause efflorescence and weaken the joints especially if the mortar is not fully packed into the top of them toothings. It was used back in the day as plasticiser wasn’t available. Seen enough in the past suffer from crumbling flakey joints when frost gets in.
I was about to write a response then noted that you had taken the words right out of my mouth. I agree with the use of something like Cementone to get the colour of the mortar correct or possibly a small amount of lime if it needs lightening up. I will always make test patches of mortar a week or so before I actually do a patch job to see what mix gets me the closest to the original colour. I would add that drilling through the joint work with a masonry bit rather than hammering may also prevent fractures appearing in surrounding brickwork.
I prefer to use a masonry 8mm drill bit or 2mm less than the bed joint & drill the bottom brick bed joint out completely then the perp joints & once the bottom brick is released the rest will fall easily or start with top brick it is less aggressive than using the mini breaker & does not damage the surrounding bricks as much, but great job done
@@PaintingandDecorating Yes, would have been nice to see how you got the cement in to the top of the bricks under the overhangs. Great job, great brick match, well done.
Back at your duty post! Glad to see you, because it's what the world needs; a man simply performing his craft with care and attention to detail. It's both educational and inspiring.
Beautiful job and the same way I'd have done it. If its an older building, you source bricks from similar buildings under renovation in the area. Might need a lime mortar for an older one. Done right, the hole completely vanishes. Whoever bodged that wants stringing up! I've even seen some cowboys fill the entire hole with cement and mark out brick lines. Heck.
I chain drill the mortar seams. Then chisel out with a Heller carbide toothed 'mortar rake bit' the teeth are a bit thicker than the shaft, so it doesn’t ’wedge itself in' like your standard bit. This way the bricks can be reused if required and the edges are not chipped
Nowadays you can get masonry blades for a reciprocating saw or sawzall. With a few holes it can make it short work. Probably not worth it for one job but if you already have enough use for the tool a good way.
I've cut prefirmed concrete with stitch drilling and bolster when it was all I had. I didn't drill all the way to prevent blow out and drilled oppose side too, and took it handy on the corners. While it was not a flat edge it didn't have to be I just kept it in tollemce. Used by stone Mason for centuries, with wedges and sometimes fire to split rock.
Thanks, I found bag mixing ratio to be too weak. And for ever seeing cement crumble. So I started using a stronger mix, had no problems and found my jobs last longer.
Amazing what the previous person tried to pass of as good workmanship. Thanks for sorting it out. Given what you found though, I'd probably get someone in to check the boiler install for safety too.
2 and 1 is far too strong. 5 and 1 is what is needed. You kept referring to the mix as cement. It’s not cement it’s mortar, which is a mix of sand and cement. The bricks also had a lot of stains on them off the mortar. More care is needed to keep the brick faces clean. You did well too thing in the new bricks.
yes thats how it should have been done, also mix it in a bucket with a pointing trowel or a plasterers whisk. its so much easier that on a flat surface
you don't have a foggy idea of what you will be asked to do next being a decorator. good vid. I'm on a very difficult job myself at the minute and there are 10s of jobs I'm juggling. one job at a time most of the time wins the race :) mind you this is a bit different, especially discovering what you found in that cavity, Beware the cowboy...
Yes customers get to trust you and ask you to fix work others have messed up. It's great to be able to help too many people just want the money without doing the job correctly and tidy. Can't believe what some people do. Thanks 👍
Not too shabby, mate. Not sure on the thinking behind your ratios, but im sure you had your reasons. I’ve laboured for 3 brickies in my life, and imho, the difference between a decent layer and a master is the speed. Any one with half a brain and the right tools can get a decent result with enough time and effort. Simply no excuse for what you had to fix. Also, I know it’s not the most expensive bit of kit, but get yourself a pot of sds grease and give your bit a dip on the non business end before you put it in. We have to look after our toys. Cheers for the video.
Not hard really, just comes down to pride in ya work !! Obvs this 🔔 end had zero pride!! Drill out the bricks not chisel out!😳 Tooth out the bricks & bond back in👌
I’ve been installing boilers for 20 years, and the man who changed that boiler should not be doing that job. he has just mounted the boiler over the existing hole without sealing it up. What a lazy git
As a few have already said 2:1 is way too strong, 5:1 is standard practice for most brickwork and never ever use washing up liquid !!!!, it actually weakens the mix, use the right stuff , mortar plastisicer.
I think Alex and Steve would be happy with that job if you really want to clean up this meant off the face of the bricks you can always go back with an acid brick wash get them spotless but regardless well done specially if you're not trained my old dad taught me the fairy liquid trick as well.
I find it easier to chain drill the mortar spaced 40 mm apart or width of chisel ends on the first brick, it then chisels much quicker, especially if they have used a 'nuclear power station' strength mortar mix😆. Ps a 2 sand to 1 cement is far too strong for facing brick, even for sewer work, 4 or 5 to 1 would suffice, but a good toothed in match. Gaz UK
If that's how they filled the hole with foam and carpet underlay, I'd be getting the actual boiler install checked by a reputable gas safe engineer! As an extra precaution, could you have used fire retardant expanding foam?
I was really looking forward to this video. You never fail to impress me with your skills. It looks seamless now that you've done your magic on it. I thoroughly enjoy your content 👍 Thank you 😊
Was it me or did that hole move to a different position? At the beginning it was 2/3 bricks from the right wall and at the end it’s several bricks further to the left? Maybe it was a mirror image at the end. Everything seemed to be reversed.😵💫
Well must say if you don't use how do you know. You see I do use it and found no problem. PH level of fairy and it's content no way affect a substance like sand or cement and motor. Know your stuff
As a brickie I noticed the motor you used is red and the original is grey .pluse the original finish is done with a jointer and not weather struck with a trowel .
I should have shown the final finish closer up, I did use a rounded piece of wood. I know the mix colour is slightly wrong, but I also think it's been repointed at some point. I will take a picture later in the year, and it will be interesting to see how it looks. Thanks for your tips
INSTALLMENT : a sum of money due as one of several equal payments for something, spread over an agreed period of time. installation : the action of installing someone or something, or the state of being installed. Nice brickwork but shame the sand is the wrong colour ....... de de de ....
i can see why you used the hammer drill to remove the brickwork.... buts its safer and probably quicker with a 100mm drill bit and a hammer and chisel, it saves you from possibly disturbing the brickwork surrounding it aswell.... and i would of left that a couple of hours before even trying to point it, im not sure why you wet the bricks before laying on them either, theres water in the gobbo, the perps were a bit messy.
Of course, you are right. Unfortunately there are a lot of dishonest, lazy tradesmen who just want to make a quick buck off suckers who don't know any better.
Boiler install is a bit rough. 😬 Nice job tidying it up. Ideally the condense pipe should be insulated through the wall and all the way along to the gully. Hooe you're doing ok, never easy losing a loved one.
Gas installers are not brickies. They probably blocked the hole out of courtesy, or temporarily. Bringing a bricklayer into the job escalates cost that customers don't like .
Because in the past I find my mix is weak and doesn't stand up to the weather. So over time I adjust and find it is a lot better and stronger like the brick. They weather evenly.
@@PaintingandDecorating It certainly looks a good job. Vast improvement on the cowboys that did it originally. I've heard that generally mortar for brickwork should be softer than the bricks to allow for movement....however for a patch job that probably doesn't apply. Job well done IMO. Your video's give excellent advice and some interesting ways to get jobs done. 👍
@@raymondg6823 Yes, I was thinking a 4:1 mix would be more normal. Hopefully it would last at least a century, even if the mortar needs re-pointing eventually. There are Tudor walls near me that have been up since Henry VIII....although that would have used a lime mortar (but that's another story).
if you concentrate on getting the bottom brick out first. the bricks above would come out easier. a disc cutter or a masonry drill would go in deeper. and make taking the brick out easier
Great repair a careful acid wash would help further to blend even better you have that wonderful ability in keeping in the moment and taking the right time and prepping in the right way. 👏🏾
It's turned out a good looking repair, Why didn't you build up the inside wall with blocks or bricks? The regular mix for bricklaying is 6 sand to 1 cement.
I didn't think about the brick on the inside after the insulation, but it would have just finished it off. Also the bag ratio I've found to be very weak over time. So over the years I've adjusted and found a strong mix is better. Thanks
I would have took out the top brick first and the rest would have knocked out easily as they wouldn't have any pressure on them from the top. Looks better now but I was surprised by the strong mix you used though.
I thought it's a dye or different colour sand. Typically, sharp sand is used within applications where more strength and less flexibility is required. For example, it is ideal for mixing concrete and is commonly used for floor screeds and laying paving courses. Thanks
Cracking face work please wear ppe and I’ve never thought of blocking up inside like that ,not knocking it but how come you never blocked up or bricked up the inside
Thank you, I thought quicker and better. It will look better from the inside and I thought better insulation. Never actually thought of facing it up with brick.
Great video, iam an ex engineer now part time handyman and it never sees to amaze me how much bodging/bad practices go on. 80% of my work now is correcting work from previous jobs that have been done.
Thank you, I think everyone is struggling and cutting corners more than ever.
Nice neat job well done,and at the risk of sounding pedantic the term is mortar,you mix the sand with cement to make a composite mix generally known as mortar or sometimes compo.
I would advise against the use of washing up liquid as a plastisier as its full of salts and can sometimes crystallise and in cold weather run down the face of the brick and cause staining which looks a mess, also use a trowel not a scraper.
However what ever gets the job done as they say, its just my opinion, doesn't mean Im right and it does look a damd sight better 😊
Thanks, 👍
Indeed, washing up liquid has additives, best to use the proper plasticiser
It'a a pet peeve of mine to see brickwork that's been badly patched (and I'm not a Brickie).You've done a grand job and I'm sure your customer thought so too.
Thank you, yes unsightly stands out like a sore thumb. I also like things to be tidy as sorts. Thanks
Class B semi facings 6 or 5:1 is more than enough, won’t cause spalling, 2:1 too strong. Tone down colour with black brick dye. It’s worth mixing a few small batches of various amounts of dye to get the mortar matched. Trial and error but worth it. Washing up liquid should never be used in mortar, detergent and salt leaching will cause efflorescence and weaken the joints especially if the mortar is not fully packed into the top of them toothings. It was used back in the day as plasticiser wasn’t available. Seen enough in the past suffer from crumbling flakey joints when frost gets in.
I was about to write a response then noted that you had taken the words right out of my mouth. I agree with the use of something like Cementone to get the colour of the mortar correct or possibly a small amount of lime if it needs lightening up. I will always make test patches of mortar a week or so before I actually do a patch job to see what mix gets me the closest to the original colour. I would add that drilling through the joint work with a masonry bit rather than hammering may also prevent fractures appearing in surrounding brickwork.
That's a nice tidy job. Good to see you back. I hope everything is alright with the family.
Thank you, yes getting back to it. 👍
Big improvement nice one for sorting out the bodge work hidden in the wall! God bless you.
Thank you.
I prefer to use a masonry 8mm drill bit or 2mm less than the bed joint & drill the bottom brick bed joint out completely then the perp joints & once the bottom brick is released the rest will fall easily or start with top brick it is less aggressive than using the mini breaker & does not damage the surrounding bricks as much, but great job done
Thanks 👍
Yep Far far better way of doing it
Just get the disc cutter on the beds
@@mdmconstruction Even worse🤣🤣🤣
@willscarlet3620 how so mine cuts all the way through got 2 extra inches makes all the difference
Would have loved to see but more of the brick laying process, always wonder how you get it down the sides and on top. Great vid, thank you 😊
Thank you, it's a difficult slow process.
@@PaintingandDecorating Yes, would have been nice to see how you got the cement in to the top of the bricks under the overhangs. Great job, great brick match, well done.
Back at your duty post! Glad to see you, because it's what the world needs; a man simply performing his craft with care and attention to detail. It's both educational and inspiring.
Thank you, great to be working.
Beautiful job and the same way I'd have done it. If its an older building, you source bricks from similar buildings under renovation in the area. Might need a lime mortar for an older one. Done right, the hole completely vanishes. Whoever bodged that wants stringing up! I've even seen some cowboys fill the entire hole with cement and mark out brick lines. Heck.
Thanks, I have done that myself but only when painting the wall, and just facing up some blown bricks.
Very nice job. Great to see people care
Thank you.
I chain drill the mortar seams. Then chisel out with a Heller carbide toothed 'mortar rake bit' the teeth are a bit thicker than the shaft, so it doesn’t ’wedge itself in' like your standard bit. This way the bricks can be reused if required and the edges are not chipped
I call that stich drilling, mate. I fear the joint were empty on this too.
Nowadays you can get masonry blades for a reciprocating saw or sawzall. With a few holes it can make it short work. Probably not worth it for one job but if you already have enough use for the tool a good way.
I've cut prefirmed concrete with stitch drilling and bolster when it was all I had. I didn't drill all the way to prevent blow out and drilled oppose side too, and took it handy on the corners. While it was not a flat edge it didn't have to be I just kept it in tollemce. Used by stone Mason for centuries, with wedges and sometimes fire to split rock.
2-1 is farr too strong. 4-1 would be more appropriate.
The old making good was horrendous 😂
Thanks, I found bag mixing ratio to be too weak. And for ever seeing cement crumble. So I started using a stronger mix, had no problems and found my jobs last longer.
I agree 2:1 is too strong 3 or 4:1, and yes add washing up liquid to the water to dissolve it in the water.😏
Just avoid washing up liquid on bigger Jobs, use proper additive it's not expensive. Mortars crumble over time with the high salt presence
Amazing what the previous person tried to pass of as good workmanship. Thanks for sorting it out. Given what you found though, I'd probably get someone in to check the boiler install for safety too.
Yep, I also thought that but didn't want to upset my customer further. But I think I may say something just in case. Thanks
@@PaintingandDecorating you may save lives.
2 and 1 is far too strong. 5 and 1 is what is needed. You kept referring to the mix as cement. It’s not cement it’s mortar, which is a mix of sand and cement. The bricks also had a lot of stains on them off the mortar. More care is needed to keep the brick faces clean. You did well too thing in the new bricks.
I found the bag ratio too weak.
Yes should have been a little more careful with the face of the brick.
But did clean a lot off.
Thanks for watching. 👍
Bloody good job mate, well done
Cheers mate. 👍
Nice neat job
Thanks
Is it better to add the washing up liquid to the water to allow it to mix in better?
yes thats how it should have been done, also mix it in a bucket with a pointing trowel or a plasterers whisk. its so much easier that on a flat surface
you don't have a foggy idea of what you will be asked to do next being a decorator. good vid. I'm on a very difficult job myself at the minute and there are 10s of jobs I'm juggling. one job at a time most of the time wins the race :) mind you this is a bit different, especially discovering what you found in that cavity, Beware the cowboy...
Yes customers get to trust you and ask you to fix work others have messed up.
It's great to be able to help too many people just want the money without doing the job correctly and tidy.
Can't believe what some people do.
Thanks 👍
Not too shabby, mate. Not sure on the thinking behind your ratios, but im sure you had your reasons. I’ve laboured for 3 brickies in my life, and imho, the difference between a decent layer and a master is the speed. Any one with half a brain and the right tools can get a decent result with enough time and effort. Simply no excuse for what you had to fix.
Also, I know it’s not the most expensive bit of kit, but get yourself a pot of sds grease and give your bit a dip on the non business end before you put it in. We have to look after our toys.
Cheers for the video.
Cheers thanks for the tip. 👍
Not hard really, just comes down to pride in ya work !!
Obvs this 🔔 end had zero pride!!
Drill out the bricks not chisel out!😳
Tooth out the bricks & bond back in👌
I’ve been installing boilers for 20 years, and the man who changed that boiler should not be doing that job. he has just mounted the boiler over the existing hole without sealing it up. What a lazy git
As a few have already said 2:1 is way too strong, 5:1 is standard practice for most brickwork and never ever use washing up liquid !!!!, it actually weakens the mix, use the right stuff , mortar plastisicer.
5 to 1 is way too weak. Plasticiser is better in render washing liquid won't weaken the mix. Used this method passed down from others.
Surely the gas fitter should have closed that gaping hole,even with some plywood on the inside and then fit the boiler good job done sir.
Yes I thought that I would not like it left on my house. Thanks
But customers don't want additional costs, gas fitters are just that, they would have to pay a contractor to match brickwork like that.
I think you did a cracking job
Thank you 👍
Did you revert back to the customer when you found the inner hole and offer to patch it with concrete block?
Boiler replacement brickie couldn't give a..... run before yer caught. Couldn't even match the brick to save a quid
I think Alex and Steve would be happy with that job if you really want to clean up this meant off the face of the bricks you can always go back with an acid brick wash get them spotless but regardless well done specially if you're not trained my old dad taught me the fairy liquid trick as well.
Use proper additive on bigger Jobs. That liquid retains salts, weakens the mix over times
@@raymondg6823 That was proven to be a myth started by FebMix. My garden wall is 10% fairy liquid and still solid after 45years
squirt the fairy in your water before u mix mate, it mixes much better, u made a nice job there
Cheers mate. 👍
Lovely stuff
I find it easier to chain drill the mortar spaced 40 mm apart or width of chisel ends on the first brick, it then chisels much quicker, especially if they have used a 'nuclear power station' strength mortar mix😆.
Ps a 2 sand to 1 cement is far too strong for facing brick, even for sewer work, 4 or 5 to 1 would suffice, but a good toothed in match.
Gaz UK
cracking job again bro
Cheers mate
If that's how they filled the hole with foam and carpet underlay, I'd be getting the actual boiler install checked by a reputable gas safe engineer! As an extra precaution, could you have used fire retardant expanding foam?
Yes for sure. This foam has a decent standard, I think if your boiler is on fire the foam won't matter that much.
Is that the pink plasterboard which has a couple of hours burn time ?
Nice job there 👍
Thanks 👍
That looks so much better and makes a huge difference .......
Thank you
when i remove gas wall heaters in the past, i usually just fill hole and put a 9 x9 vent over it , hides everything
I was really looking forward to this video. You never fail to impress me with your skills. It looks seamless now that you've done your magic on it. I thoroughly enjoy your content 👍 Thank you 😊
Thank you, nice to be able to sort it out.
Thanks for watching.
Was it me or did that hole move to a different position? At the beginning it was 2/3 bricks from the right wall and at the end it’s several bricks further to the left? Maybe it was a mirror image at the end. Everything seemed to be reversed.😵💫
Actually it could be that I reversed the screen. Will have to remember about that and flip it. Thanks
No Fairy Liquid it’s a Cowboy trick to save on plasticisers Micky Mouse the Fairy Liquid kills off the cement in the mix haha Cowboy
Well must say if you don't use how do you know. You see I do use it and found no problem. PH level of fairy and it's content no way affect a substance like sand or cement and motor. Know your stuff
The fairy liquid is to create air, and best used with the water when mixing in. Nowadays brickies use feb
Done by a heating engineer 😂
As a brickie I noticed the motor you used is red and the original is grey .pluse the original finish is done with a jointer and not weather struck with a trowel .
I should have shown the final finish closer up, I did use a rounded piece of wood. I know the mix colour is slightly wrong, but I also think it's been repointed at some point. I will take a picture later in the year, and it will be interesting to see how it looks. Thanks for your tips
INSTALLMENT : a sum of money due as one of several equal payments for something, spread over an agreed period of time.
installation : the action of installing someone or something, or the state of being installed.
Nice brickwork but shame the sand is the wrong colour ....... de de de ....
Thanks for doing this!
Your welcome thanks
i can see why you used the hammer drill to remove the brickwork.... buts its safer and probably quicker with a 100mm drill bit and a hammer and chisel, it saves you from possibly disturbing the brickwork surrounding it aswell.... and i would of left that a couple of hours before even trying to point it, im not sure why you wet the bricks before laying on them either, theres water in the gobbo, the perps were a bit messy.
Of course, you are right. Unfortunately there are a lot of dishonest, lazy tradesmen who just want to make a quick buck off suckers who don't know any better.
Boiler install is a bit rough. 😬 Nice job tidying it up. Ideally the condense pipe should be insulated through the wall and all the way along to the gully.
Hooe you're doing ok, never easy losing a loved one.
Thank you, yes that could cause a problem in a bad winter.
Gas installers are not brickies. They probably blocked the hole out of courtesy, or temporarily. Bringing a bricklayer into the job escalates cost that customers don't like .
Great job I'd be a happy customer!
Thank you.
Nice brick match, that's half the battle. Looks like a drag face or drag wire to me.. County red dragfaced possibly(?)
2 to 1 mix is crazy strong mixture. Why so strong?
Because in the past I find my mix is weak and doesn't stand up to the weather. So over time I adjust and find it is a lot better and stronger like the brick. They weather evenly.
@@PaintingandDecorating It certainly looks a good job. Vast improvement on the cowboys that did it originally.
I've heard that generally mortar for brickwork should be softer than the bricks to allow for movement....however for a patch job that probably doesn't apply. Job well done IMO. Your video's give excellent advice and some interesting ways to get jobs done. 👍
No, complete developments are constructed using 4:1 and last a century.
@@raymondg6823 Yes, I was thinking a 4:1 mix would be more normal. Hopefully it would last at least a century, even if the mortar needs re-pointing eventually. There are Tudor walls near me that have been up since Henry VIII....although that would have used a lime mortar (but that's another story).
The finished job looks good, but as a bricklayer myself, I found this a very difficult video to watch.
Couldn't see there was a plant put in the way😵
Not bad at all that.
Thanks
Can you tell me what that white pipe is for 🤔 great camera work one handed...no need to hide it behind a 🌵😅
if you concentrate on getting the bottom brick out first. the bricks above would come out easier. a disc cutter or a masonry drill would go in deeper. and make taking the brick out easier
Great colour match on those bricks......how the f#@k can you walk away from that thinking you have done a great job....honestly
I’ve seen this crap quality repair so many times before well done showing how it should be done
Great job. Nice to see a tradesman who values doing a quality job.
Great repair a careful acid wash would help further to blend even better you have that wonderful ability in keeping in the moment and taking the right time and prepping in the right way. 👏🏾
Thank you 👍
It's turned out a good looking repair, Why didn't you build up the inside wall with blocks or bricks? The regular mix for bricklaying is 6 sand to 1 cement.
I didn't think about the brick on the inside after the insulation, but it would have just finished it off. Also the bag ratio I've found to be very weak over time. So over the years I've adjusted and found a strong mix is better. Thanks
I'd be interested to hear your recommendation for filling in a 200mm round hole in brickwork
You dont really fill in round brickwork holes. You take it out altogether by creating the "teeth" to tie replacement bricks in.
I would have took out the top brick first and the rest would have knocked out easily as they wouldn't have any pressure on them from the top. Looks better now but I was surprised by the strong mix you used though.
Thsts how it should have been done in the first place. Nice job well done 😊😊😊
Thank you.
Can I mention that if you are trying to match the original grey cement, it's best to use sharp sand and not builders' sand.
I thought it's a dye or different colour sand. Typically, sharp sand is used within applications where more strength and less flexibility is required. For example, it is ideal for mixing concrete and is commonly used for floor screeds and laying paving courses. Thanks
Plumbers need to go on a bricklaying course to make a nice job of things
Yes it makes sense when they are dealing with holes in brick all the time. Thanks
@@PaintingandDecorating As we know in to days world what makes sense never happens mate
Looks like that one needs to go on an gas installer course as well
👍👍👍
Thank you. 👍
id stick to painting , as we say in the trade if you can pi== you can paint , lol
Oh, the irony!
I knew it. Bought low by foam.
I was a brick layer for fifty years and that was painful to watch
Great job mate. I can see by your work that your a perfectionist. Credit to you 👍
Thank you. 👍
Fairy liquid 😂. Cheaper than plasticiser
I'm surprised you didn't use the expanding foam instead of the bricks 😂
Just get a vent cover and screw it to the wall over the bricks.
The last guy should have supplied a bigger plant.
Looks really good
Thanks
Nice neat job 👍
Thank you
mixing like a stir fry , lash some soy sauce in 👍👍
Its mortar, not cement, but great job!
Just nail a board over it👍🏻
Why are you not wearing any PPE ?
why not use block to fill the inside instead of pieces of insulation and foam spray ?
It's more neat to finish on the inside, also better insulation. Thanks
Wouldn't have been so bad if they would have at least found some brick of the same color. They obviously didn't care.
Them bricks upside down lad ...just kidding cracking job well done 👏
I admire your versatility, but why on earth are you getting involved in these type of jobs
If a customer asks I will see if I can.
I do like a challenge and doing different jobs. Thanks
Had you drilled holes all around the brick beds they would have came out a lot quicker with the chisel. 👍
Painters to the rescue again good job 👍🏻
Thanks
First thing is to get right brick to match if you carnt get. get same colour at least and tooth out and keep bond.
Superb
Thank you.
2-1 ?….wow.
Something is holding on to these bricks,! It's called cement! 😂
No it's called expanding foam that is holding it from the back.
When taking out the bricks, there was no expanding foam!
@@apmullen yes there is you can see it in the video and hear it pulling off the brick.
You can barely see where it was done.
Thanks
............... installation ...........
👍
Cracking face work please wear ppe and I’ve never thought of blocking up inside like that ,not knocking it but how come you never blocked up or bricked up the inside
Thank you, I thought quicker and better. It will look better from the inside and I thought better insulation. Never actually thought of facing it up with brick.
That's got to be a DIY bodge. No Tradesman, no matter how mentally challenged they might be, would ever leave a job like that and charge. Would they?
They have.
Just started watching, cut the joints with a grinder first if your outside and using a Micky mouse tool!
I don't like grinders I had a bad accident with one. Hospital and plastic surgery. Went through my wrist.
Nice work sir!
Thank you
Put cement and sand in a bag and shake it up and down side to side tip it out and just add water. Job done.
No.
Made hard work of the brick removal😊
Or just took my time and found it was glued from the back, and pushing on the boiler. Glad I took my time. 👍
LOL NO IDEA. comes to mind
How could anyone do it so badly