Thanks for the video, Sam. Seeing that white stuff always makes me thankful I live in Georgia! I will have to come back to this design when my sawbuck gives out. I believe I will use exterior plywood from my scrap pile. I hit a couple of screws with my chainsaw in my current sawbuck. Next time I might temporarily use screws but then drill holes and glue in dowels and then remove the screws.
Thanks, Sam for for making this Sawbuck build video. I got the plan from AAW a while back but never followed through. I think you’re video is going to motivate me too build it before I do any more chainsawing.
Sam,I made a copy of your "cross buck", soon after your video came out. Following your design, using a small chain to keep the legs sturdier, it is a great asset!!. The gap in the center helps when chainsawing out plates from short logs safely. Before,I would hold my work with my foot!!!! ( not a good idea). Thanks again for a great idea ...Bob
Hi. Sam. Wolf from Australia. Loved your last 2 videos. I built my own Sawbuck about 18 months ago, It's very similar to Bills. but I can reverse it to cut thick logs on one side an turn it over and cut thin material on the other, because of the different angles of the legs.. Thanks for the mention on your last Notes..... Stay safe. Wolfgang.....
This is reassuring, Sam, as I built mine, almost identically, in 2009, when I had to fell and convert two 50 foot trees, which were threatening neighbours' properties.(Silver Birch and English Sycamore).Also 3 feet long, with 3x3" white cedar members, the main difference is that the end X parts are rigidly joined with half joints and 2 1/2" paired slotted screws; used throughout. 3x3" rails were used instead of your plywood, on the outside immediately above the X joint, giving plenty of space for the chainsaw. I have been considering a rebuild as it has stood permanently outside in the rain, and has done everything I wanted of it. In England we call it a sawhorse, and it was a satisfying and worthy build. Bernard.
Great Idea. It looks a lot more stable and safe than others I have seen. Thanks for posting this Sam. I look forward to your videos and instruction. Take care and be safe.
Sam thanks, I saw the design in the mag and you have inspired me to make one. I am long overdue for something substantial and sturdy like this design. Some weather we're having here in chilly MT. 12" here in Clancy and only -25 this am. Cheers and stay well.....
A thought to help save the feet from the elements. I bought some MAS penetrating epoxy sealer from Rockler to seal some soft spalted maple, and it seemed to penetrate pretty well. Maybe the epoxy would harden and protect the soft cedar feet, and possibly keep the wood from rotting if you store it outside.
Had you made the one plywood plate longer the braces would not be in the way for collapsing. Then put the bottom braces on the out side and the unit will flat pack. I have a similar sawhorse design that grips a tubafour on top when the bottom of the legs a brought closer together
Probably because I have not had enough coffee yet but I am trying to envision what you said above. I'm guessing that what you are saying is that on the longer piece of plywood, the log brace would sit lower so that the two opposing braces are offset when closing. I like the idea of storing like a folding chair rather that expanded out like in this video.
@@steinbierz actually no. Both of your plywood sheets are the same size; which required you to put braces on the frame rails to attach that piece of plywood to. Instead of using braces make that piece long enough to span its frame rail. On the bottom rails put the braces on the outside when collapsed. Now it flat packs.
@@steinbierz no sir as luck would have it this video for my saw horses just came up on my feed. ua-cam.com/video/GkqhJh2wSgM/v-deo.html On your video @11:36 IF your plywood( for just this one side) was longer you would not need the scabs for the legs to screw the plywood into, leaving a clear space for flat packing. Now put your leg braces flat to the underside ( inside the "vee"). Now the horse will pack flat with the plywood panels on opposite ends of the same side.
That is one well built piece of equipment. It should serve you well for many years to come. I had a thought as you were adjusting the chain. What if instead of cutting an angle on the legs you rounded the ends. Then if you adjusted the chain to a different length the legs would still sit well. Also if you made the plywood on the outboard legs wider you could do away with the extra blocking and the sawbuck could fold flat. Thank you for sharing. Have a great day and stay healthy.
Thank you Glen. My design does not have those blocks and does fold flat if made according to the plans available. You are right about rounding the ends. Unfortunately I didn't think about that until after I made it.
Glen and Bill, I cut the plywood in half which left the one side too large for the plywood to cover so had to add the two pieces of 2 x 4. It only interferes when trying to fold it up. I don't plan on bringing it inside but will fold it up and lean it against my shop. Other than that it works well and VERY stable. Thanks again Bill
That looks amazing, Sam. Just out of curiosity. how heavy is it? Also, do you think it would stand sturdy on grass ground? That is where my wood starts out and then moves to a small shed to dry.
Kim I referred to the sawbuck where I got the idea and plans. The link is in the description: In the June, 2020 issue of the American Woodturner (p.18) Woodturner's Chatter-you can see a SawBuck designed by Bill Gray. Link to Plans: tiny.cc/sawbuck (You may have to cut and past this link into your google browser) It has detailed plans for the sawbuck Sam
@@WYOMINGWOODTURNER Sam - I've been learning from you for 5 years and you are in my top 5 list for youtube woodturning teachers. But your presentation missed a few nice to know details: the length of your beams, the angle the beams are cut at and the point where the lag bolts are inserted. But thanks to your video and the plan I figured it out. 30 degrees is a good angle and the holes for the bolts can be drilled at half the length of the beams.
I've got all the ingredients for making this bad boy. Going to do it over this weekend. QUESTION!!! Why did you paint it and what did you paint it with? Edit.... I did a slight Modification as well... I did get mine to fold up very nicely for storage. If you are on MeWe... you can find it here: mewe.com/group/604853ff65058c65edb01b02
At least show us by cutting some logs to proove that it is a better design,which it is not. #1 Too high to handle heavier logs .#2 Not stable enough for my taste. Don't promote a mediocre design for there are people out there who do not know what they are doing. # Way too tall and not a wide enough base.
Excellent video, but I agree, at least partially, with norbert. I just bought a Stihl farm boss with a 20" bar. I was looking for sawbuck designs to use, while learning. I have almost no experience with a chainsaw. I am exclusively a bowl turning, so cutting bowl blanks is my focus. Sam's pivot point is lower than the original design. The design has the pivot point in the middle. This makes the base wider than Sam's design. For smaller logs, the base would be even wider than the top.
Sam, I was looking for a video on how to build a sawbuck, saw your name and my search was over. Appreciated!
Thanks for the video, Sam. Seeing that white stuff always makes me thankful I live in Georgia! I will have to come back to this design when my sawbuck gives out. I believe I will use exterior plywood from my scrap pile. I hit a couple of screws with my chainsaw in my current sawbuck. Next time I might temporarily use screws but then drill holes and glue in dowels and then remove the screws.
Thanks for the vid. Re the sawbuck, I wish to also crosscut, and so I'll have to make a provision to support both pieces after cutting.
Thanks, Sam for for making this Sawbuck build video. I got the plan from AAW a while back but never followed through. I think you’re video is going to motivate me too build it before I do any more chainsawing.
Sam,I made a copy of your "cross buck", soon after your video came out. Following your design, using a small chain to keep the legs sturdier, it is a great asset!!. The gap in the center helps when chainsawing out plates from short logs safely. Before,I would hold my work with my foot!!!! ( not a good idea). Thanks again for a great idea
...Bob
Great job Sam thanks for sharing I love mine.
Very timely as my old sawbuck bit the dust last fall. Been looking for a simple but elegant design. This could be it!
This is so funny.. I just built a saebuck 3 weeks ago. Mine folds up and us too big so I think it will modify it a bit. Thanks for the video Sam.
Just what I needed,, thanks for sharing,,stay warm
Well, Sam, today I built my sawbuck...I am so happy to finally have one. I've been waiting to mill a large Honey Locust crotch piece and now I can.
Good job 👍
Putting the chain in to control the leg angle was a great addition to this project.
Hi. Sam. Wolf from Australia. Loved your last 2 videos. I built my own Sawbuck about 18 months ago, It's very similar to Bills. but I can reverse it to cut thick logs on one side an turn it over and cut thin material on the other, because of the different angles of the legs.. Thanks for the mention on your last Notes.....
Stay safe. Wolfgang.....
Got to thinking-you must be warmer than we are. -20º f this AM Sam
@@WYOMINGWOODTURNER 33 degrees Celsius yesterday!!
Oh man, I know that’s pretty warm. It did warm up to about 20° today Fahrenheit above zero.
This is reassuring, Sam, as I built mine, almost identically, in 2009, when I had to fell and convert two 50 foot trees, which were threatening neighbours' properties.(Silver Birch and English Sycamore).Also 3 feet long, with 3x3" white cedar members, the main difference is that the end X parts are rigidly joined with half joints and 2 1/2" paired slotted screws; used throughout. 3x3" rails were used instead of your plywood, on the outside immediately above the X joint, giving plenty of space for the chainsaw. I have been considering a rebuild as it has stood permanently outside in the rain, and has done everything I wanted of it. In England we call it a sawhorse, and it was a satisfying and worthy build. Bernard.
I've been looking for some ideas for one of those. Ty, very helpful.
Great Idea. It looks a lot more stable and safe than others I have seen. Thanks for posting this Sam. I look forward to your videos and instruction. Take care and be safe.
My old "log holder" was CRAP. This one is so much better and safer. I really needed to build it. Thanks Sam
I have been waiting for this video. Looks pretty sweet! Thanks Sam!
Great sawbuck Sam.
Superb again. You are genuinely one of my hero’s Sam.
Thanks
Sam thanks, I saw the design in the mag and you have inspired me to make one. I am long overdue for something substantial and sturdy like this design. Some weather we're having here in chilly MT. 12" here in Clancy and only -25 this am. Cheers and stay well.....
Yep we had -20 this AM Right now it is -8. But we were overdue for some cold...
Awesome design I'm defenitly gonna building this design mine is terrible and so wobbly it's crazy
A thought to help save the feet from the elements. I bought some MAS penetrating epoxy sealer from Rockler to seal some soft spalted maple, and it seemed to penetrate pretty well. Maybe the epoxy would harden and protect the soft cedar feet, and possibly keep the wood from rotting if you store it outside.
Looks great Sam! It's on my bucket list. Now get out there and help Cheryl scoop that snow.
If there is snow left in June, I promise to remove it...... Sam
I built one just like the one Woodturner KY built on UA-cam. It works great!
Thanks for sharing that!
Nice job! Should work great.
Had you made the one plywood plate longer the braces would not be in the way for collapsing. Then put the bottom braces on the out side and the unit will flat pack. I have a similar sawhorse design that grips a tubafour on top when the bottom of the legs a brought closer together
Probably because I have not had enough coffee yet but I am trying to envision what you said above. I'm guessing that what you are saying is that on the longer piece of plywood, the log brace would sit lower so that the two opposing braces are offset when closing. I like the idea of storing like a folding chair rather that expanded out like in this video.
@@steinbierz actually no. Both of your plywood sheets are the same size; which required you to put braces on the frame rails to attach that piece of plywood to. Instead of using braces make that piece long enough to span its frame rail. On the bottom rails put the braces on the outside when collapsed. Now it flat packs.
@@pepper7144 Sorry to be overly dense but are you saying to get rid of the 4x4s that the log sits on? Thanks.
@@steinbierz no sir as luck would have it this video for my saw horses just came up on my feed. ua-cam.com/video/GkqhJh2wSgM/v-deo.html
On your video @11:36 IF your plywood( for just this one side) was longer you would not need the scabs for the legs to screw the plywood into, leaving a clear space for flat packing. Now put your leg braces flat to the underside ( inside the "vee"). Now the horse will pack flat with the plywood panels on opposite ends of the same side.
@@pepper7144 Ok...now I get it. Thanks!
Very nice, can't wait to see you use it👍
I recieved the mallet thank you I really like it and if you don't mind I will be putting it to work
Congrats again....I need to make me another one just like it. Sam
That is one well built piece of equipment. It should serve you well for many years to come. I had a thought as you were adjusting the chain. What if instead of cutting an angle on the legs you rounded the ends. Then if you adjusted the chain to a different length the legs would still sit well. Also if you made the plywood on the outboard legs wider you could do away with the extra blocking and the sawbuck could fold flat. Thank you for sharing. Have a great day and stay healthy.
Thank you Glen. My design does not have those blocks and does fold flat if made according to the plans available. You are right about rounding the ends. Unfortunately I didn't think about that until after I made it.
Glen and Bill, I cut the plywood in half which left the one side too large for the plywood to cover so had to add the two pieces of 2 x 4. It only interferes when trying to fold it up. I don't plan on bringing it inside but will fold it up and lean it against my shop. Other than that it works well and VERY stable. Thanks again Bill
thanks Sam. Moved and need to build a new one.
Boy, do I ever need one of those!
Go for it. I found the design really easy to make. I love the legs. Sam
That looks amazing, Sam. Just out of curiosity. how heavy is it? Also, do you think it would stand sturdy on grass ground? That is where my wood starts out and then moves to a small shed to dry.
I would say it is around 40 lbs or so. I feel it would sit very on grass or any surface. Sam
@@WYOMINGWOODTURNER Thanks, Sam!
Your little helper looked a little lost. Too cold for throwing a ball I guess.
It would have been sweeter if you had given some basic measurements and angles.
Kim I referred to the sawbuck where I got the idea and plans. The link is in the description:
In the June, 2020 issue of the American Woodturner (p.18) Woodturner's Chatter-you can see a SawBuck designed by Bill Gray. Link to Plans: tiny.cc/sawbuck (You may have to cut and past this link into your google browser) It has detailed plans for the sawbuck Sam
@@WYOMINGWOODTURNER Sam - I've been learning from you for 5 years and you are in my top 5 list for youtube woodturning teachers. But your presentation missed a few nice to know details: the length of your beams, the angle the beams are cut at and the point where the lag bolts are inserted. But thanks to your video and the plan I figured it out. 30 degrees is a good angle and the holes for the bolts can be drilled at half the length of the beams.
I've got all the ingredients for making this bad boy. Going to do it over this weekend. QUESTION!!! Why did you paint it and what did you paint it with?
Edit.... I did a slight Modification as well... I did get mine to fold up very nicely for storage. If you are on MeWe... you can find it here: mewe.com/group/604853ff65058c65edb01b02
Coco doesn’t look very happy about being out in that cold white stuff
Yea, sometimes she needs to know who is the boss-she is of course.....😃
At least show us by cutting some logs to proove that it is a better design,which it is not. #1 Too high to handle heavier logs .#2 Not stable enough for my taste. Don't promote a mediocre design for there are people out there who do not know what they are doing. # Way too tall and not a wide enough base.
Looking forward to seeing your less-mediocre sawbuck video...expect to be wowed beyond belief!
Excellent video, but I agree, at least partially, with norbert. I just bought a Stihl farm boss with a 20" bar. I was looking for sawbuck designs to use, while learning. I have almost no experience with a chainsaw. I am exclusively a bowl turning, so cutting bowl blanks is my focus. Sam's pivot point is lower than the original design. The design has the pivot point in the middle. This makes the base wider than Sam's design. For smaller logs, the base would be even wider than the top.