Uh-oh, if that copy of GoldenEye you have was genuine, then that is the European PAL version, looking at the back of the cartridge shell. That version won’t work with the North American N64, without converters or modding. Just wanted to mention that.
Hey John, I like all your game reviews, and these types of videos are great too! I've used some of your tips to get some cartridges up and running again! Awesome, you do great work. 👍
Ack! You actually removed what was left of the copper contact with that Dremel!! Please don't use Dremels on carts. When the contact is worn like this, you will see what might look like debris on the contact, but that's actually the PCB underneath it. Also, I highly suggest that you invest in a multimeter, so you can easily check the contacts to make sure they are working. They can be bought quite cheap. Much cheaper than a Dremel! It helps to take a picture of it, preferably with MACRO, with your phone, and zoom in to see the detail. Or use a magnifying glass. You have a couple of options when it comes to worn away cart contacts. One way is to bridge the bad ones. Another is to re-tin the contacts, but it's a but more advanced, and finally you could always transfer the chips to another compatible PCB. I'm not big on the latter since I don't like killing one cart to save another. I've cleaned several thousand game carts in the 90s and 2000s at work, and I've rarely had to use anything other than a simple WHITE PENCIL ERASER. They, both remove dirt, and polish the copper to a new looking shine. The pink erasers are OK, but they are slightly more abrasive. If a cart's contacts are very sorry, then I will use some IPA (96% or higher) on it prior to using the eraser. Never use anything like sand paper, or Magic Eraser. I also don't recommend other cleaners as they often contain petroleum based ingredients, and will just cause moire dirt to stick in the future. They will also gunk up your system's cart port.
Most security screws can be bought at any home depot store. Otherwise sourced on amazon. Usually most screws, are torx bits, with a pin in the center. If you cant find the security screwdrivers, you can drill out a regular bit with the appropriate drill bit. Id recommend a drill press, but it can be done with a vice and good direction with a bit in a regular drill. Also, the original NES, has screws that are 2 piont slotted drivers, which you can make with a regular slotted screwdriver, modified with a dremel grinder and maybe a bench grinder to remove the outside of the screwdriver. Hope this helps.
OH! Btw, you mentioned using a phillips screwdriver on the cart... this is wrong, what you need is a JIS #1, which stands for "japanese industrial standard" and its important, because phillips are meant so strip, and JIS are meant to grip. Its not a huge difference if youre careful, but it could mean the difference between you opening it today, and not being able to open it in the future. Always be mindful of the next time, or the next repairman. Seriously, this is the difference between USA phillips, and JIs. It really is a big deal when working with different screw standards in different countries. If you research the difference, its the difference between working on a USA engine, opposed to a foreign japanese engine. And the screws and bits, make a difference. Even the tiny #1 bits. So make sure youre using the JIS bits, because its literally "japanese industrial standard." Its what the japanese manufactures of the NES were working with, and it REALLLY does make a HUGE difference.
Thank you Titan for sponsoring! Visit titanmattress.com/johnriggs to get 30% off your Titan mattress. #titanmattress
the dremel hurt my soul
All of these games are RARE.
Ok; I'll see myself out.
I just want to say thank you for showing the failures too instead of not uploading the video at all. These are the type of things I learn from.
Uh-oh, if that copy of GoldenEye you have was genuine, then that is the European PAL version, looking at the back of the cartridge shell. That version won’t work with the North American N64, without converters or modding. Just wanted to mention that.
Amazing. Sharp eyes man
And it looks like there might not be an ESRB rating on the label. Non-North America at the very least.
I noticed that as well. 🎉 I opened the comments to see if anyone else saw.
You have a good eye (or should I say a GOLDEN eye?!) well, I'll try it through a converter when I can.
@@JohnRiggsLOL! No problem! You could try the N64 Passport, that’s an option!
Hey John, I like all your game reviews, and these types of videos are great too! I've used some of your tips to get some cartridges up and running again! Awesome, you do great work. 👍
Ack! You actually removed what was left of the copper contact with that Dremel!! Please don't use Dremels on carts. When the contact is worn like this, you will see what might look like debris on the contact, but that's actually the PCB underneath it. Also, I highly suggest that you invest in a multimeter, so you can easily check the contacts to make sure they are working. They can be bought quite cheap. Much cheaper than a Dremel!
It helps to take a picture of it, preferably with MACRO, with your phone, and zoom in to see the detail. Or use a magnifying glass.
You have a couple of options when it comes to worn away cart contacts. One way is to bridge the bad ones. Another is to re-tin the contacts, but it's a but more advanced, and finally you could always transfer the chips to another compatible PCB. I'm not big on the latter since I don't like killing one cart to save another.
I've cleaned several thousand game carts in the 90s and 2000s at work, and I've rarely had to use anything other than a simple WHITE PENCIL ERASER. They, both remove dirt, and polish the copper to a new looking shine. The pink erasers are OK, but they are slightly more abrasive. If a cart's contacts are very sorry, then I will use some IPA (96% or higher) on it prior to using the eraser. Never use anything like sand paper, or Magic Eraser. I also don't recommend other cleaners as they often contain petroleum based ingredients, and will just cause moire dirt to stick in the future. They will also gunk up your system's cart port.
Most security screws can be bought at any home depot store. Otherwise sourced on amazon. Usually most screws, are torx bits, with a pin in the center. If you cant find the security screwdrivers, you can drill out a regular bit with the appropriate drill bit. Id recommend a drill press, but it can be done with a vice and good direction with a bit in a regular drill.
Also, the original NES, has screws that are 2 piont slotted drivers, which you can make with a regular slotted screwdriver, modified with a dremel grinder and maybe a bench grinder to remove the outside of the screwdriver.
Hope this helps.
@JohnRiggs have you ever tried to add more soder, instead of the dremal?
Those screws had me dying bro
Been using Brite Boy for years because of you. Works like a charm!
you clearly have broken traces. invest in a multimeter and do a continuity check on every pin ffs.
My God let him never be my surgeon.
This! Less matress more multimeter
Next video (Guys life was not complete without multimeter pro from multimetersrus. get 30% off your meter with code useamultimeter)
@@ebeggersanonymous6606 he would just give you a sponge bath and see if that worked 🤣
Hi Riggs, I plan on getting a rotary tool myself
A moment of silence for the games...
Anyone know why the KI:Gold board was like that? Because it was an earlier game?
I loved this and ordered three Titan Mattresses right away! :P
OH! Btw, you mentioned using a phillips screwdriver on the cart... this is wrong, what you need is a JIS #1, which stands for "japanese industrial standard" and its important, because phillips are meant so strip, and JIS are meant to grip.
Its not a huge difference if youre careful, but it could mean the difference between you opening it today, and not being able to open it in the future. Always be mindful of the next time, or the next repairman.
Seriously, this is the difference between USA phillips, and JIs. It really is a big deal when working with different screw standards in different countries. If you research the difference, its the difference between working on a USA engine, opposed to a foreign japanese engine. And the screws and bits, make a difference. Even the tiny #1 bits. So make sure youre using the JIS bits, because its literally "japanese industrial standard."
Its what the japanese manufactures of the NES were working with, and it REALLLY does make a HUGE difference.
Helpful! Thanks!
Cart surgery with Dr Riggs
How can you not wince at these methods?
because they're already not working.
Ooo a dremel. Caught my attention
I love your videos. Have you been watching the Ranma 1/2 remake on Netflix?
I have! It's fun to see how they update them while making them pretty much the same.
@JohnRiggs they used an odd way to censor the nudity. I thought they would either cut it completely, or have it hidden behind stuff.
I used to really enjoy these videos but they've become lazy. Riggs I know you have done more with these broken games in the past. What's the deal?
Nice try John!
You tried your best.
Did I, though? lol
👍👍™️