Corrections: No, a cap going to ground makes the radio not a true "hot chassis", but a significant amount of current still is present, so similar cautions should be exercised. Also, film and non-electrolytic paper caps are not really polarized, but the outside foil on the construction can introduce more noise to the circuit if installed one way. You can find this outside foil using an oscilloscope for newer caps.
Hey buddy! I have also made so many receivers ,transmitters and repaired some Commercial radios and walkie talkies , I love my hobby , I am so glad to see you enjoying your hobby.
I’ve repaired and worked on Tube Guitar amplifiers for years…it just came naturally from taking electronics in school… but watching you… I never realized how HARD IT WOULD BE TO EXPLAIN to someone WHAT I DO…. Cool channel definitely subscribed 😊
"Hot chassis" refers to the fact that, since the AC line plugs of the day were not polarized (like they are today), one side of the line connection was directly connected to the chassis as a common. Depending on the way the plug was inserted into the socket (remember it could go in in either orientation) the hot line could be connected to the chassis so that the chassis was at line hot potential. If an unsuspecting person, animal or other thing touched a chassis connected component and a return path to neutral/ground simultaneously a shock would result. As a side note, in an effort to make the set safer manufacturers would design things so that it would be harder to touch the chassis (non-conductive cases, plastic knobs, recessed/hidden screws, etc.) - a notable exception is the Arvin 444 and similar that had metal cases but did use other design safety methods. Hot chassis does not equal capacitatively coupled. The reactance at 60 Hz is probably quite high so that minimal current would flow through the cap unless there was another existing fault.
By the way, you are doing a great service here explaining how it's really like to work on these radios up close and giving lots of good tips. Really appreciate it!
Jerry it's nice to see somebody young working on this these old radios please keep in mind you're coupling capacitors and bypass capacitors need to be installed correctly that black stripe represents the shielding around that capacitor if you put it in backwards you no longer have the shielding and starts introducing noise into the system I've been working on this stuff for 40 years you best to stay away from lead and solder because putting a fan on your desk and working on it it's just blowing it into your room you'd want to rig up a tube on the backside of that fan and throw it out the window I know a lot of the capacitors that are being sold now the outside foil is not marked you get into the higher end capacitors and they're marked or you can figure it out there's tutorials out there on the internet that you can read so you can understand how to figure out the outside foil don't be in a rush do it right remove the whole part don't clip in J hook I know it takes three times as long but once you get the hang of getting it off the socket you going to appreciate it a lot better you do get a better connection. When I'm handling all these old electronics I use mechanics gloves they're nice and tight on your hands and you can still get the feel of the part and it protects your skin from the lead-based products you're working with not trying to discourage you trying to educate you and keep you safe I'll be waiting for a new video keep up the good work
Thanks for the comment, all of your points you brought up are absolutely valid and make sense, and I want to work towards some of them, but it is always a challenge with the time constraints I have. Most people who work on these sets are retired, and have plenty of time. While I try to get better with each set I work on, (I used to really not do things right) I also want to appeal to a younger audience, and not overwhelm them, so I'm not the last one left doing this. But, thanks for the comment, and I will try to employ some of the suggestions you made into future videos.
Lead soldering has no real draw backs. The smoke you see is actually from the liquid rosin inside the solder being heated up. Lead has a boiling point of 3180 degrees Fahrenheit so you are only making it from a solid to a viscous liquid itself. Of course I wouldn't want to breathing rosin vapors either so running a computer power supply fan to take away the vapor is good. Jerry do some lighting behind the camera. It is really hard to see the work with only side lighting.
My company did a safety investigation of leaded solder and concluded that there was minimal hazard for inhalation or exposure below 900F. The typical iron runs at 700F, so should be safe. However they emphasized not to eat or drink at the work station, and to wash hands thoroughly after soldering.
You’re making assumptions. Not all AA5’s are hot chassis or series strung. Also it does matter which way you put in non-polarized capacitors, they have an outer foil end that can pick up noise. You also didnt say anything about checking for out of tolerance resistors or adding a fuse. Not trying to be a pain just trying to help others
Corrections:
No, a cap going to ground makes the radio not a true "hot chassis", but a significant amount of current still is present, so similar cautions should be exercised.
Also, film and non-electrolytic paper caps are not really polarized, but the outside foil on the construction can introduce more noise to the circuit if installed one way. You can find this outside foil using an oscilloscope for newer caps.
Hey buddy! I have also made so many receivers ,transmitters and repaired some Commercial radios and walkie talkies , I love my hobby , I am so glad to see you enjoying your hobby.
I’ve repaired and worked on Tube Guitar amplifiers for years…it just came naturally from taking electronics in school… but watching you… I never realized how HARD IT WOULD BE TO EXPLAIN to someone WHAT I DO…. Cool channel definitely subscribed 😊
This is a very well-made Tutorial!
Jerry your antique AA-5 AM tube radio is awesome my friend
Excellent video Mr. Stone
Jerry stone your antique AA-5 AM tube radio is good for Dxing the AM band at night 🌙 and day my friend
Excellent video. Thank you for producing it, it shows you care for those wanting to learn the hobby.
"Hot chassis" refers to the fact that, since the AC line plugs of the day were not polarized (like they are today), one side of the line connection was directly connected to the chassis as a common. Depending on the way the plug was inserted into the socket (remember it could go in in either orientation) the hot line could be connected to the chassis so that the chassis was at line hot potential. If an unsuspecting person, animal or other thing touched a chassis connected component and a return path to neutral/ground simultaneously a shock would result. As a side note, in an effort to make the set safer manufacturers would design things so that it would be harder to touch the chassis (non-conductive cases, plastic knobs, recessed/hidden screws, etc.) - a notable exception is the Arvin 444 and similar that had metal cases but did use other design safety methods.
Hot chassis does not equal capacitatively coupled. The reactance at 60 Hz is probably quite high so that minimal current would flow through the cap unless there was another existing fault.
By the way, you are doing a great service here explaining how it's really like to work on these radios up close and giving lots of good tips. Really appreciate it!
I'm glad you finally got the variac! Cool video as usual.
Jerry stone you are good at restoring antique radios and alignment of antique radios my friend
What a cute little radio!
Jerry it's nice to see somebody young working on this these old radios please keep in mind you're coupling capacitors and bypass capacitors need to be installed correctly that black stripe represents the shielding around that capacitor if you put it in backwards you no longer have the shielding and starts introducing noise into the system I've been working on this stuff for 40 years you best to stay away from lead and solder because putting a fan on your desk and working on it it's just blowing it into your room you'd want to rig up a tube on the backside of that fan and throw it out the window I know a lot of the capacitors that are being sold now the outside foil is not marked you get into the higher end capacitors and they're marked or you can figure it out there's tutorials out there on the internet that you can read so you can understand how to figure out the outside foil don't be in a rush do it right remove the whole part don't clip in J hook I know it takes three times as long but once you get the hang of getting it off the socket you going to appreciate it a lot better you do get a better connection.
When I'm handling all these old electronics I use mechanics gloves they're nice and tight on your hands and you can still get the feel of the part and it protects your skin from the lead-based products you're working with not trying to discourage you trying to educate you and keep you safe I'll be waiting for a new video keep up the good work
Thanks for the comment, all of your points you brought up are absolutely valid and make sense, and I want to work towards some of them, but it is always a challenge with the time constraints I have.
Most people who work on these sets are retired, and have plenty of time. While I try to get better with each set I work on, (I used to really not do things right) I also want to appeal to a younger audience, and not overwhelm them, so I'm not the last one left doing this.
But, thanks for the comment, and I will try to employ some of the suggestions you made into future videos.
Jerry stone your utube videos are awesome my friend
Lead soldering has no real draw backs. The smoke you see is actually from the liquid rosin inside the solder being heated
up. Lead has a boiling point of 3180 degrees Fahrenheit so you are only making it from a solid to a viscous liquid itself.
Of course I wouldn't want to breathing rosin vapors either so running a computer power supply fan to take away the vapor
is good. Jerry do some lighting behind the camera. It is really hard to see the work with only side lighting.
My company did a safety investigation of leaded solder and concluded that there was minimal hazard for inhalation or exposure below 900F. The typical iron runs at 700F, so should be safe. However they emphasized not to eat or drink at the work station, and to wash hands thoroughly after soldering.
Have to tell you that the yellow shining in the background is rather harsh on the eye's!
FYI "WV" on the caps means "Working Voltage" or "Working Volts".
“W” is for working voltage not wall voltage
You’re making assumptions. Not all AA5’s are hot chassis or series strung. Also it does matter which way you put in non-polarized capacitors, they have an outer foil end that can pick up noise. You also didnt say anything about checking for out of tolerance resistors or adding a fuse. Not trying to be a pain just trying to help others
Jerry stone my hobbies are painting pictures 🖼 and listening to shortwave and ssb iam thinking about getting my Grms license and mybe my ham license